335,000 miles on my venture and I'm replacing the wheel bearings, front CV shafts, tie rods and ball joints on mine. None are failed, but probably not a bad idea to replace them at this point. Awesome video!
Thank you so much for explaining the symptoms because those are the exact same symptoms I was looking for. I put brand new wheels on and nothing has changed. Now I can do this next. Thank you.
I watched this video a few years ago, as I was going to replace the wheel bearing on the passenger side because I was getting the ABS light coming on on the dash. Now I'm re-watching this video because I need to replace the Axle on the Passenger side. I don't have the problems yet of the knocking or vibrating, but I had to replace the engine mount and noticed a grease buildup under the boot. I did not see a split in the boot. (strange). I guess Now I'll actually have to replace the bearing AND the axle at the same time. I just pushed the sensor wire into the bearing and zip tied it to temp fix the problem. Now I'll actually have to replace it.
Good video. Sometimes you can just smack the area around you tie rod end and it will pop out dave the rubber from damage from the pickle fork. Works well in most front end parts like ball joints and such.
well lets say a 300lb man jumping on a bar is 400 pounds of force, on an 18" breaker bar, he applied something near 600lb/ft of torque. Something tells me that is WAY beyond the spec for that assembly and is applying an astronomical load on the wheel bearings. I'll be shocked if the wheel bearing lasted another 5k miles.
I have a woable at 25 to 30 mph and at 40 a bad roaw at 40 is that the axle i change the hub no change just want make sure i am going in right direction
Thanks for a great video! I have changed axeles on a lot of cars, but not many american cars since i live in Sweden. On this car, the transmission oil dont pour out when pulling the axle out of the differential? Its very common on the cars im used to work on. I have a Chevrolet trans sport which seems to be the same as an Pontiac Montana :) Diffrent badging in Europe!
The CV axle is held in to the transmission via a cir clip, something this video did not show. Make sure the old one comes out when you remove the old shaft. The other end is held on by the axle nut. If you're talking about the joint covered by the black boots. My opinion is its not worth the time to rebuild just buy the whole axle and replace.
Not sure why you unhooked the ball joint , the strut barely moves , it’s easier to take the 2 bolts that connect the strut to the knuckle out , then the knuckle just lays over
You did this the HARD way. all you had to do was to remove the wheel bearing and Hub (3 bolts & the axel nut) and brake assembly (2 bolts & Nuts) and the drive shaft would come right out.
Can you get the 1/2 shaft out w/out taking off the sway bar an/or the ball joints? I know you can replace the rear 1/2 shafts on the AWD models by just taking off the wheel bearing.
335,000 miles on my venture and I'm replacing the wheel bearings, front CV shafts, tie rods and ball joints on mine. None are failed, but probably not a bad idea to replace them at this point. Awesome video!
Are you a vanlifer?
I love that you used the 2 Foot pounds method to remove the axle nut!
Thank you so much for explaining the symptoms because those are the exact same symptoms I was looking for. I put brand new wheels on and nothing has changed. Now I can do this next. Thank you.
Thanks!
33mm on an impact should work for both 👍 ran into that issue while doing the bearing 6months ago. Thanks for the tips I'm off to do my sv6!
Those bolts removal made me want to buy a compass measuring tool. Great video hope that works on the Uplander
I watched this video a few years ago, as I was going to replace the wheel bearing on the passenger side because I was getting the ABS light coming on on the dash. Now I'm re-watching this video because I need to replace the Axle on the Passenger side. I don't have the problems yet of the knocking or vibrating, but I had to replace the engine mount and noticed a grease buildup under the boot. I did not see a split in the boot. (strange). I guess Now I'll actually have to replace the bearing AND the axle at the same time. I just pushed the sensor wire into the bearing and zip tied it to temp fix the problem. Now I'll actually have to replace it.
I will be changing the left wheel bearing. Will that make it easier to change the axle? Will I still need to remove the ball joint?
Good video. Sometimes you can just smack the area around you tie rod end and it will pop out dave the rubber from damage from the pickle fork. Works well in most front end parts like ball joints and such.
Appreciate the help. Couldn't you remove the two bolts off the strut and drop the knuckle forward?
Abe Abdollahi then it would need an alignment. By just removing the ball joint nut, there is no alignment needed
I'm trying that now and I cant get those out to save my life
I got close to trying that today but glad I didn't. That stuff under a lot of pressure
Good information
This video helped me to do this with no problems, thanks
what is the weight of the sledge hammer used?
How did you calibrate the breaker bar for the correct torque?
Lmao
well lets say a 300lb man jumping on a bar is 400 pounds of force, on an 18" breaker bar, he applied something near 600lb/ft of torque. Something tells me that is WAY beyond the spec for that assembly and is applying an astronomical load on the wheel bearings. I'll be shocked if the wheel bearing lasted another 5k miles.
Just looked up the spec, which is 118 ft/lbs.
Ugga dugga
Great vid! Dude! Thanks for sharing! 👍🏻👍🏻
I have a woable at 25 to 30 mph and at 40 a bad roaw at 40 is that the axle i change the hub no change just want make sure i am going in right direction
Hey Dan after u do all that and test drive do u us ally smell a Lil trany fluid burning I took mine out and leaked a bit
Thanks for a great video!
I have changed axeles on a lot of cars, but not many american cars since i live in Sweden. On this car, the transmission oil dont pour out when pulling the axle out of the differential? Its very common on the cars im used to work on. I have a Chevrolet trans sport which seems to be the same as an Pontiac Montana :) Diffrent badging in Europe!
Yes these are very good vehicles.
Did you have to also replace the front hub assembly at any point?
Im currently changing both wheel bearings assembly and driveshafts
where can i get the ball joint separator?
AutoZone or O'Reilly's... About $10 each.
Thanks, you mad a good video.
Is there a lock pin for the cvjoint. Mine came out i dont understand how the cvjoint came out its not broken .... help please
The CV axle is held in to the transmission via a cir clip, something this video did not show. Make sure the old one comes out when you remove the old shaft. The other end is held on by the axle nut. If you're talking about the joint covered by the black boots. My opinion is its not worth the time to rebuild just buy the whole axle and replace.
GUNSnSTUFF mmm
👍👍👍👍
Gracias por tomar de su tiempo y enseñar a otros vety good job
Very good job
Not sure why you unhooked the ball joint , the strut barely moves , it’s easier to take the 2 bolts that connect the strut to the knuckle out , then the knuckle just lays over
Donde consigo el separador de rotula?
en autozone amigo.
Thanks! Good video!
thanks wasn't shur if it was my bearing and hub or drive shaft u said some things as wat happen in to mine so know I know wat it is
Good job
Just the right torque" 250 fat pounds! "
Good video
good job sir!....
Go get the 33mm socket for the axle nut. If it's bitch put some heat on it.
I just did some struts on one of these and them 3 nut on top was a bitch on passenger side.
عفية
You did this the HARD way. all you had to do was to remove the wheel bearing and Hub (3 bolts & the axel nut) and brake assembly (2 bolts & Nuts) and the drive shaft would come right out.
I was going to say the same thing. Always avoid removing a tie rod or ball joint if you can
You didn’t really have to do all of that. You should have enough space to get it out just by removing the hub assembly.
dummy did it the hard way.
Can you get the 1/2 shaft out w/out taking off the sway bar an/or the ball joints? I know you can replace the rear 1/2 shafts on the AWD models by just taking off the wheel bearing.
Thank You!
Thanks!