@@ceejordan9649 you do if you're doing it with 2 people, if you're doing it by yourself just make sure the hose is above the bleeder valve so no air gets in
For a person with no friends, I especially thank you for this video because I could not figure out anyone to help me bleed my brakes but if there’s a will there’s a way-and my brakes are gonna get done this weekend!!
+nate theGREAT Thank you for the reply! We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
RIGHT lol this method works i had been workin for like 2 hours to get mine bled and then i watched this video- done in 10 minutes. Way easier than I was making it. The two things that tripped me up- 1. not having a vent on my bottle for air to flow out 2. Overloosening the bleed bolt. really barely gotta unscrew it and bam flows like water I just used some old denebulizer tubing and a pieve of tape over a bottle, for those who dont wanna screw and ziptie and whatnot
1A Auto your videos are literally the ones I always watch now whenever I have a doubt or want to figure out a different solution to making repairs. Seeing that I live pretty remote having friends over to help is pretty much not gonna happen; this video gave me a solution to my brake problems! Thanks
Thank you, 1A Auto, your video helped me to do a one man brake bleeding. I would recommend, instead of pinching the tube after finishing, if you lower the bottle below the bleeder valve, all the excess fluid will drain back into the bottle.
@@Juan2011Strong Off. With the car running, the brake booster will be active, and you'll have crazy pressure in the lines when you step on the brake pedal. You'll shoot the hose off the bleeder valve and spray brake fluid everywhere on the first press.
Just a friendly suggestion...if the vehicle happens to be your own property, replace all the caliper bleeder screws with Dorman SpeedBleed bleeder screws (which have one-way check valves built into them); and fit lengths of 3/16" vinyl tubing onto each bleeder screw and open them all up at the same time. Place the free ends of the vinyl tubing into the same container, and invert your brake fluid container onto your open master cylinder, and leave it there. Pump your brake pedal slowly and consistently, until clean fluid is seen in all hoses, and all hoses are free of air bubbles. Remove your brake fluid container from the master cylinder and re-cap the master cylinder. Give the brake pedal a few more pumps if the master cylinder fluid level is too high, then close all bleeder screws and remove the vinyl tubing from each and replace the protective caps. Purge the brake fluid from the lines into your container, and dispose of it properly. You will have bled the entire system in the same time it would have taken you to bleed only the longest brake line, and be done on less than half the time it would take you to bleed each line individually--fantastic when you need to do a full system flush.
probably one of the best videos on bleeding I've seen, much appreciated. I've been turning wrenches since I was 17, mostly because I didn't have the money to take it to a mechanic and I don't believe I had ever seen this method, totally makes sense though, I'm 52 now.
I had good success with this technique but I still had some air in system - possibly due to bleeder valve undone more than needed... I added my own variation by pumping the brake 4 times and then using a cut 2x4 and the electric seat forward to do the final pump and hold it in place.... then tighten up / release as you would 2 person technique. This additional step fixed the the pedal from being sloppy / soft/ long travel which is a sign that there is air in the system.
I usually put that bottle out it, then pump the brakes a few times, put a stick between the brake pedal and steering wheel, walk around and crack the bleeder till air/fluid stop moving, close the valve pump the pedal a bit more and repeat till no air.
Worked like a charm! My roommate actually pumped while I hooked this up, no mess, no constant tightening and loosening. 10/10 definitely recommend! Ps. I just saw this video an hour and a half ago, ran to oriellys, back home and done
Man I can't even tell ya, it's priceless that you guys share your years of experience to help us out at home. I've saved myself a lot of money by doing it myself with the help of your videos. No way can I afford a mechanic, I spend too much on tools!!
I was in a pickle after doing work to my car and during the test drive afterwards the brakes were super spongy. I knew I let a very little amount of air into the system, but was not sure what the impact would be. Wow, just a little bit of air made my vehicle so dangerous to drive. I don't have any friends close to me, so I searched RUclips for "remove air from brake lines without bleeding" hoping there was a way. I found your video, went to the hardware store, picked up clear vinyl tubing. Went to the auto parts store, picked up brake fluid. Did this to my rear brake calipers and problem was solved. So simple and easy. Thank you very much for making and sharing this video. Have a great day and cheers.
Whenever I do a repair and have to get RUclips certified or take the RUclips refresher. I get a sy of relief everytime 1a auto pops up! I've used about 20 or 30 of ur videos to make sure I don't forget the t's and i's of mechanics work. The videos you guys do gives me confidence in repairs compared to the Haynes books . You are appreciated. All of you. From the vehicles to the mechanics and from the videographers to the editors... Thanks again 💯
Love the video but I don't get it. Why do you need to fill the waste bottle with brake fluid. 1. When you attach the hose to the bleeder screw it has air in the hose anyway. 2. When you pump the brakes, all of the air is being forced out anyway. 3. If the argument is that brake fluid will get sucked back from the bottle instead of air, then you likely have air coming in first from the hose anyway (see #1) and then #2 will happen anyway, and also if this is the 2nd brake like you are doing, you are sucking back in old brake fluid if there is a large amount of backflow.
Best video eeveeeer! As far as bleeding the brakes, thank you so much 1A auto and thank you so much for explaining slowly and patiently. Love 1A auto DIYs. Hands down the best.
1A is the cat's pajamas. (They had a video to do my P71 Crown Vic's intake manifold. I even bought it from them. It was pretty easy - "With their help.")
i worry about air being sucked in around the bleeder screw threads with the one man system. i prefer the two man so the screw is closed when you release the brake pedal.
Looks great. Can't wait to try it on mine. However, seems that once the bleeder screw is tight again, instead of having to worry about pinching off the tubing to prevent oil going everywhere, perhaps lowering the bottle well below the screw first would be the best bet, as gravity is then working in your favor.
@@BubbaGumpShrimpss don't loosen the bleeder screw too much. A quarter turn is all you need. Too much will make it leak out from the threads and possibly allow air to get in. However, you can put a layer of Teflon tape on the threads to make a good seal, remove the bleeder, apply the tape and thread it back into the caliper
I'm an old fart and have been using that method for decades. I finally bought a handheld vacuum bleeder and wow, what a difference. It's so much faster. The plus side is you can also use this tool to troubleshoot vacuum related smog equipment.
2:43 you put the cap back onto the Master Cylinder not only to keep dirt from getting into the master cylinder but MORE IMPORTANTLY so that when you press on the brake pedal you don't BLOW brake fluid ALL OVER THE PLACE which will happen if you don't put the cap back onto the master cylinder.
I greatly appreciate your video. Out of all the videos on here, yours was the best one. I just finished a rear brake job on my 06 HHR and it was a horrible experience. I don't ever want to go through that ever again. The worst part were the main springs. Took two days to finish. Thank you for all your help!
I enjoy learning every time. I ride a 2017 JK Wrangler. My question is, is there an intake that has a throttle installed above the lower intake? The lower intake licked when I applied 7.4ft-lbs of torque to the 8 bolts that attach it, how can I fix it?
For this method to work, The hose need to point up then down to prevent the fluid and air from returning back to the caliper. You did that in the video but failed to mention this important step. Good job though
@@TN-bm6dh bleeder valve is NOT a check valve (one way out). Though there are special AFTERMARKET bleeder valves that are one way out; i think they are called speed bleeders or something similar.
Well unless you are holding your bottle even with the bleeder valve while the drain hose is attached you should be ok. This is simple physics. One end of the hose needs to be pointing g down the other end pointing up. Should have no issues with this process.
Question: since brakes are generally power-assisted, I wonder if the engine has to be running when "pumping the brakes"? Thank you for clarifying. 2022/08/18. Ontario, Canada.
You should warn people attempting this, that on older vehicles the bleeder screw is going to be seized and may strip. Plan on having new bleeder screws or even new calipers once you round the old bleeder screws.
I don't believe that is 1A Autos job to begin with. He did mention that if it's an older caliper the bleeder valve could be seized and to be careful, and if need be use the boxed end.
7:32 by NOT closing the bleeder screw between pumps of the brake pedal, AREN'T you DRAWING air BACK into the caliper ? Isn't there some kind of CHECK VALVE that could be used if you don't have a second person at the caliper closing the bleeder screw between pumps of the brake pedal ?
I love it! What a great way to bleed brakes. No mess at all...I've done it many times but it always leaves a mess all over and a sore throat. Sore throat you ask? Yep, that comes from yelling back and forth to the other person in drive seat as to when to press down pedal and/or allow it to come back up. :)
Lol I used to yell at my wife you sure your foots all the way down n she yells back yea so then I’d open it and close it but now thanks to this video ima try it by myself.
how u know or When do u fully flush out replace all brake fluid? Is it always necessary ? Brake fluid used to be all DOT3 now DOT4 stuff.. hygroscopic blahblah means absorb moisture water which H2O so air gets in eventually? too. guess lot of chemistry and physics go into brake fluid. In cold winters rust loves grows overnote onetal esp near ocean coasts right.. Can u tell visually or feel of slimy brake fluid or go by time years or mileage on brake fluid useful life ? Is it hard to drain it all out or have to flush lines and master cyl under pressure ? Do a vid on it plz
i use a little longer hose on the right side and left side so i can actually see when the bubbles stop while looking out the open driver/passenger doors
So basically all he’s doing is stepping on the pedal letting all the air bubbles out of the system. Than when it’s clear he tightens the bleeder valve and makes sure the reservoir is full?
i have made one of these in the past with a magnet attached to the side of bottle to hold to frame. I also use a couple of folding make up mirrors so i can watch the fluid/bottle from in the car so you dont have to keep getting out to check..works great
They do if you hit 'em with a shot of PB Blaster twice a couple of days before you try to bleed the brakes. And this method works like a champ, especially if you have the bottle above the bleed valve; every bleeder procedure I've seen before had it below the bleed valve and has been a royal PITA to do. And get yourself a large hemostat to pinch off the hose an inch or so above the bleed valve.
Great video. Suggestion: before starting the process go around first and make sure each bleeder valve is loose enough to be opened once you get to it... and to make sure the wrench size is correct for each valve (believe it or not the size is not always standard especially if a non OEM brake part had ever been installed). If one or all are not easily opened you can do what’s necessary to free up the valves, before starting the process with the bottle.
I was trying to do it with a wrench and almost stripped the valve just because I didn't want to take the tire off. I used a socket with ratchet to loosen them before completely using a wrench.
This is a great suggestion. I just did the brakes on my Miata and I checked the bleeders first. 3 of them broke off like they were made out of plastic!
Nice. I was using another person to help me get finished faster the last time and there seemed to be a problem. You never really know what the other person is doing if you can't see it. I honestly prefer to do everything myself. It may take longer, but at least I know it's being done right if everything rests on me. This will help me work alone and be thorough.
Absolutely phenomenal tutorial. Things to help note for newbies (that I had to learn via the school of hard knocks) are: 1) Make sure the container with your clean brake fluid is ABOVE the brake bleeder valve. This ensures that you're not just dumping in a ton of liquid, and that air is for certain being released. 2) Gotta gotta gotta make sure that master cylinder cap is on and SCREWED ON (unlike other styles of brake bleeding that take it off or rest it on the top). 3) Some brake fluid is gonna fill into the container. I'm not 100% sure this isn't my own personal error, but I can also see fluid flowing into our mechanic's bottle as seen in this video, so I'm assuming that is to be expected. If you've got old, dirty brake fluid in there that you're bleeding, it'll contaminate the new brake fluid. This is really just best for air, at least in my experience/opinion. Of course if any old pros or mechanics have corrections for an apprentice like me I'd love to hear them. Thanks so much to all you at 1A Auto for your supremely helpful and informative videos!
I only do the brake I'm working on. The banjo fitting is only disconnected for less than a minute so I don't see how air can migrate back thru the whole system.
1A Auto Parts should show professional tools to be use when doing a job. A standard 2 sided wrench is NOT the proper tool to use on brake jobs. Please show the right tools to use. Nice job though.
I’ve seen it where a person cracks open the bleeder valve for a second or two has the helper pump and hold the brake , then they close the valve and then the helper released the brake. This method does not require the closing and opening of the valve many times as I’ve seen before . Please advise why others do it in the aforementioned method
Great video. I have 2013 Honda Fit with ABS in the front but my Haynes manual provides an order for bleeding and starts at left front. Seems opposite of what is mentioned here and most other places I've looked....
Great! Nice work guys. Just what I needed, especially since my friends are all rich and just take their cars to the shop when they need brake work. Can't get them to help me bleed my brakes. Lol.
Spray the bleeder screw with good penetrating oil the day before and when ready to do the work...first loosen the screw with a six point socket, then proceed as normal. Also actually having a protective cap on the screw will limit rust to the outside
I've bled brakes with seized or broken off bleeder screws by having someone pump the brakes until the piston comes out of the cylinder. I hold the piston against the cylinder to allow fluid to come out but no air to get in. Then I push the piston back in. This method is easier on drum brakes that have two smaller pistons with one being slightly higher than the other and that's the one that I bleed air from. This is a good and possibly the only way to avoid having to replace the cylinder or caliper and risk the possibility of breaking a brake line or fitting when everything is badly rusted.
Rsole makes no sense.. if ya got broken bleeder screw... It's always gonna be sucking getting air into system at bleeder screw ... So how can yur brakes even work correctly at all ?!? will always have some or lot air getting in right? smfh omg
I replaced the master cylinder than bleed it and than bleed the brakes, I installed new rotors and new brakes with the same old calipers and hoses. I see fluid when bleeding driver and passenger wheel, but when I drive I see smoke on the passenger side and the caliper is locked, I can hear the rubbing. What can be the problem and also what solution do you suggest? Thank you.
How u do this bleeding thing on older small '07 Toyota Corolla w frt disc but rear Drum brakes ??? (no ABS no ABS ) So how u do bleed rear drums ??? rear drums. on the rear drums ? 15" wheels/rims.. sits outside no garage.. like most people Toyota '07 Corolla 155,000 miles - got used, me am 3rd owner... no clue what if how was really maintained before me. ( but overall good shape decent allaround) it's small car... compared to this big lug in vid Live in Boston rust belt, freezing cold snow slush winters.. ok? ok Car sits alot not drive everyday This past week not drive it 5 days bc so hott humid weather July been 95-98'F hot hot. ** [[ Car sat for 5 days... My left rear drum blew 1 shoe pad worn fell off inside drum cover seems like (defective?) but was old rusty. ( car brakes been prior this ok like normal but always been lil spongy but work ok.. drive car eazzy like grandmamoses) So..Going only slow 25mph side street at nite lil cooler out.. touched brakes slow down at yellow traffic lite.. suddenly hear really quick loud zingg snapp sound... then screaming LOUD banshee screech like for8sec.. and car slowed suddenly . . like rear wheels dragging .. pulled over.. Left rear wheel rim pretty hot heated up.. but not right rear. Drive half mile tp buddymechanic his hse.. jack up.. try spin wheels. Left is stuck not spin at all.. right rear ok spins. Have to wd40 all 5 lugs both rear wheels... hard get off just the wheels. Then gotta slamm slam longhndl sledgehammer to drum covers 800x to get off. 3 hours later.. Find Left rear w worn piece drum shoe pad falls out w drum cover to ground. Right rear drumcover hard hard to get off.. but shoes pads cyl all look ok intact. Right ok.. bu Left rear fcckkdUp...]] ** wD40 is great lifesaver get rusty lugnuts drum cover off. omg great stuff.. works. So what was that huge scary screammming sound noise? Never heard experienced this in 40yrs driving different cars some old, new, rentals etc. My cars mostly older rusty small cars. What was that ? What happened? What caused this ? Today just had cert mechanic at decent reputable busy svc repair place..(I know owner 40yrs in biz.) the brake mechanic Ted removed and replaced both Left Right rear whole drum assembly w new parts.. and did new Wagner drum shoes.. but kept same drum cover was in ok decent shape . ( very hard to get parts tooo... Remember this!! esp now!! supplychain bullshitzz) He did not bleed brakes or system after installing. I did not see him even pop the hood check fluid levels once... (but I might have missed that). I asked him - Do ya need bleed brakes? he mumbles "no.. will adjust after driving.. self adjust." ( i sorta agree drums will selfadjust? I guess w lil cyl screw and stupid springs in drum assembly) ( kinda believe sorta trust? this guy has lot experience knows brakes fix lot of cars .. pretty good niceguy.. owner knows likes him) He took car for spin test drive it. says ok.. if any probs " just bring back can adjust" ... me ok. BUT... brake pedal still lil too mushy for me. .travels too long still like has done for most past 3yrs. makes me nervous. I want pedal solid hard tight, couple inches travel only at most ( like new again). is it possible? What is wrong ? Will bleeding help this ? Flush out put in all brand new brake fluid? I watch care maintain car good for 3yrs now. Brake fluid been ok looks clear clean at max line mark on white top lil reservoir. ( Corolla '07 kinda dbl reservoir system w lil one above bigger reservoir below it) Gonna take it back have Ted check it again .. this succks I saw him on the new parts careful adjust the both rear drum cylinder screw adjuster thingy for cylinder/ spring crap. ohh This cost me $365 for this rear drum parts/ labor .. thot was decent price. ( kinda expected cost more like $400-500) so good price. Anyhow... fckkkn drums SUCKKK really.. too much crap parts mechanical shittzz hard to do pia pia need muscle, pliers etc etc. Old ancient tech Disc brakes ONLY way to go !!! Ted, most mechanics agree too. Wish I had on all 4 wheels. pss.. Rust suckks such a killer. .ask me I know 5 cars lifetime.. eust is loving me talented monster..never stops. just suckkkks. Car fixing diy is whole diff life up NorthrustLand. Help pls .. thx
1aauto is awesome 😎 I just used this method on my 03 Ram 1500 after replacing a brake line while doing a full suspension job. I hate brake bleeding but I love this method!!
Great instruction but 👎 because too many commercials!! The entire video is an instructional advertisement for 1A Auto. But 1st they make an extra fraction of a penny by showing us 3rd party ads. Then when instructional advertisement starts we're held hostage for 1 minute of generic ad for 1A Auto. Then the great instruction FINALLY begins.... only to be interrupted by yet another 3rd party ad so 1A Auto can make another fraction of a penny. Ever notice how you'll be watching a TV commercial for Coke and then the Coke ad will be interrupted by an ad for a different product? Me either.
couple things: 1) make sure to suck the old fluid out of reservoir before pouring new one (turkey baster, or large syringe), 2) you don't need to take wheels off on most cars to access the bleeder. I just roll my car on top off a ramp and do 2 wheels at a time - much faster. Some car (like Prius) has special mode to bleed rear wheel (electronic control motor pump), some car take DOT 4 (like BMW). 3) before removing the hose, make the tube/Drain bottle go BELOW so when you squeeze tube out you get gravity to self draining to the bottle instead of making a mess. 4) use a clear bottle/hose so you can see dirty fluid/particles (sign of maybe bigger problem). Also I don't get why you put new fluid in the bottle - with the hose going up from the screw, any air bubble will move up and not get sucked back down when you release the pedal (which tends to be a lot less than push anyway) beside the tube will eventually fill but doesn't need to and doesn't start that way anyway...
Out in the ether- "Can you just remove the old fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster ( and "then" put in new fluid) and call it good, or is it "absolutely" necessary to bleed the whole system?
Is brake fluid and steering fluid pretty much same thing or interchangeable ( sorta) ? Both look clear similar and pour and feel slippery same. So ? Can you use brake fluid ( in a pinch) for steering fluid ? I would not risk it other way around and use other for the brakes.. for sure. But what if pulled made a bozobonehead move and added lil of one or other into other during a small fillup topoff ? small amount let's say.? Gonna hurt or danger or harm really? today everything so expensive... both cost good amt of $ .. so.
I’m debating between A coke plastic bottle Or A jarrito de tamarindo plastic bottle . 😊 I’ll have to do this procedure in my O1 WJ 4.O L . But got to spray WD 40 first to the brake bleeders .
Just did this on my 2014 Kia Soul. I did have to start & idle my engine to do the brake pedal pumping. It would only pump maybe 1 time each interval otherwise
Very important to notice that he set the bottle above the height of the bleeder valve. I had mine sitting on the garage floor and went through 2 large bottles of fluid before I figured it out.
Just tried your method here today on a 2003 S10 front brake disc brake calipers and it worked like a charm! Thank you very much for sharing this idea. I used one of my lorex wireless cameras to keep an eye on the bottle while I pumped the brakes.
Well, I made the one-man bleeding bottle this afternoon and replaced the rear calipers, rotors, and pads on my 2004 Jetta TDI wagon. The one-man bleeding bottle works like a champ. I'll keep it in my shop for the next brake job. Thanks for the great idea. It really works great!
@@anowzanaw879 you hold the pedal so air does not come back in. With this method, it's drawing fluid in from the bottle so no need to hold pedal. Make sense?
Nice tips in general except the 3/16 hose, it's way too small, pretty much the size of the hole in the bleeder. I've try pretty hard and there is no way to get that on. Guess i'm gonna do another ride to the part store...
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part @1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
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A
What size hose ?
So u dnt have to open and close the bleeder screw while u pump the brake??
@@ceejordan9649 you do if you're doing it with 2 people, if you're doing it by yourself just make sure the hose is above the bleeder valve so no air gets in
Do you bleed with the car on or off? I have a 2013 toyota camry
The time my wife was pumping the gas pedal was the last time I did a two man brake bleed.
Why isn't anything coming out?😄
@@gatewaysolo104 LOL Gas was shooting into the carb!
Been there done that. My wife did the same she has the hang of it now. But really it was a one women one man job not a 2 man brake job. LOL
Wifes are better at jobs in the bedroom!!!
Yipe
For a person with no friends, I especially thank you for this video because I could not figure out anyone to help me bleed my brakes but if there’s a will there’s a way-and my brakes are gonna get done this weekend!!
+nate theGREAT Thank you for the reply! We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
@@1AAutolol
RIGHT lol this method works i had been workin for like 2 hours to get mine bled and then i watched this video- done in 10 minutes. Way easier than I was making it. The two things that tripped me up-
1. not having a vent on my bottle for air to flow out
2. Overloosening the bleed bolt. really barely gotta unscrew it and bam flows like water
I just used some old denebulizer tubing and a pieve of tape over a bottle, for those who dont wanna screw and ziptie and whatnot
Ain't got no friends either. Got my dawg.....she's my buddy.
Buy friends, Nate.
1A Auto your videos are literally the ones I always watch now whenever I have a doubt or want to figure out a different solution to making repairs. Seeing that I live pretty remote having friends over to help is pretty much not gonna happen; this video gave me a solution to my brake problems! Thanks
Thanks, man! Almost wasted $90 on a "brake bleeder kit". Forever alone team unite!
Thank you, 1A Auto, your video helped me to do a one man brake bleeding.
I would recommend, instead of pinching the tube after finishing, if you lower the bottle below the bleeder valve, all the excess fluid will drain back into the bottle.
Do you do this process with the vehiclen on or off
@@Juan2011Strong Off. With the car running, the brake booster will be active, and you'll have crazy pressure in the lines when you step on the brake pedal. You'll shoot the hose off the bleeder valve and spray brake fluid everywhere on the first press.
Just a friendly suggestion...if the vehicle happens to be your own property, replace all the caliper bleeder screws with Dorman SpeedBleed bleeder screws (which have one-way check valves built into them); and fit lengths of 3/16" vinyl tubing onto each bleeder screw and open them all up at the same time. Place the free ends of the vinyl tubing into the same container, and invert your brake fluid container onto your open master cylinder, and leave it there.
Pump your brake pedal slowly and consistently, until clean fluid is seen in all hoses, and all hoses are free of air bubbles. Remove your brake fluid container from the master cylinder and re-cap the master cylinder.
Give the brake pedal a few more pumps if the master cylinder fluid level is too high, then close all bleeder screws and remove the vinyl tubing from each and replace the protective caps.
Purge the brake fluid from the lines into your container, and dispose of it properly.
You will have bled the entire system in the same time it would have taken you to bleed only the longest brake line, and be done on less than half the time it would take you to bleed each line individually--fantastic when you need to do a full system flush.
This is the clean not messy way to do it. Good job!
probably one of the best videos on bleeding I've seen, much appreciated. I've been turning wrenches since I was 17, mostly because I didn't have the money to take it to a mechanic and I don't believe I had ever seen this method, totally makes sense though, I'm 52 now.
Coop story
I was thinking the same. Where was this when I was a teenager?
I had good success with this technique but I still had some air in system - possibly due to bleeder valve undone more than needed... I added my own variation by pumping the brake 4 times and then using a cut 2x4 and the electric seat forward to do the final pump and hold it in place.... then tighten up / release as you would 2 person technique. This additional step fixed the the pedal from being sloppy / soft/ long travel which is a sign that there is air in the system.
I usually put that bottle out it, then pump the brakes a few times, put a stick between the brake pedal and steering wheel, walk around and crack the bleeder till air/fluid stop moving, close the valve pump the pedal a bit more and repeat till no air.
Worked like a charm! My roommate actually pumped while I hooked this up, no mess, no constant tightening and loosening. 10/10 definitely recommend! Ps. I just saw this video an hour and a half ago, ran to oriellys, back home and done
You are a national treasure!! You just saved me tons of money!! You are doing the lawds work!
Man I can't even tell ya, it's priceless that you guys share your years of experience to help us out at home. I've saved myself a lot of money by doing it myself with the help of your videos. No way can I afford a mechanic, I spend too much on tools!!
Thanks! Most simple and easiest video I've found.
These camera angels exude the type of energy that makes a man say "Nice." E.g. 7:20
Through past experiences, used a flare & six point wrench
I was in a pickle after doing work to my car and during the test drive afterwards the brakes were super spongy. I knew I let a very little amount of air into the system, but was not sure what the impact would be. Wow, just a little bit of air made my vehicle so dangerous to drive. I don't have any friends close to me, so I searched RUclips for "remove air from brake lines without bleeding" hoping there was a way. I found your video, went to the hardware store, picked up clear vinyl tubing. Went to the auto parts store, picked up brake fluid. Did this to my rear brake calipers and problem was solved. So simple and easy. Thank you very much for making and sharing this video. Have a great day and cheers.
Will this work for the master?
Whenever I do a repair and have to get RUclips certified or take the RUclips refresher. I get a sy of relief everytime 1a auto pops up! I've used about 20 or 30 of ur videos to make sure I don't forget the t's and i's of mechanics work. The videos you guys do gives me confidence in repairs compared to the Haynes books . You are appreciated. All of you. From the vehicles to the mechanics and from the videographers to the editors... Thanks again 💯
Great video - very clear and understandable. This is a great company - highly recommend
Just found this! Getting older so I have to do stuff on my own now. Wish me luck!
How did you get on mate?
That worked out really good i wish i did a reaction video for it didnt spill a drop of fluid
I need to try this on the '69 El Camino that I recently inherited. Wish me luck.
Love the video but I don't get it. Why do you need to fill the waste bottle with brake fluid. 1. When you attach the hose to the bleeder screw it has air in the hose anyway. 2. When you pump the brakes, all of the air is being forced out anyway. 3. If the argument is that brake fluid will get sucked back from the bottle instead of air, then you likely have air coming in first from the hose anyway (see #1) and then #2 will happen anyway, and also if this is the 2nd brake like you are doing, you are sucking back in old brake fluid if there is a large amount of backflow.
Best video eeveeeer! As far as bleeding the brakes, thank you so much 1A auto and thank you so much for explaining slowly and patiently. Love 1A auto DIYs. Hands down the best.
1A is the cat's pajamas. (They had a video to do my P71 Crown Vic's intake manifold. I even bought it from them. It was pretty easy - "With their help.")
i worry about air being sucked in around the bleeder screw threads with the one man system. i prefer the two man so the screw is closed when you release the brake pedal.
How do you cross the street by yourself?
Looks great. Can't wait to try it on mine. However, seems that once the bleeder screw is tight again, instead of having to worry about pinching off the tubing to prevent oil going everywhere, perhaps lowering the bottle well below the screw first would be the best bet, as gravity is then working in your favor.
I can attest that your above method works with no spillage.
You do want the air to rise through the hose though so having the bottle high isn't a bad shout
@@stewartrowlands792 But the bleeder screw will be tight so air wont be able to go in?
@@BubbaGumpShrimpss don't loosen the bleeder screw too much. A quarter turn is all you need. Too much will make it leak out from the threads and possibly allow air to get in. However, you can put a layer of Teflon tape on the threads to make a good seal, remove the bleeder, apply the tape and thread it back into the caliper
@@stewartrowlands792 Point taken.
I'm an old fart and have been using that method for decades.
I finally bought a handheld vacuum bleeder and wow, what a difference. It's so much faster. The plus side is you can also use this tool to troubleshoot vacuum related smog equipment.
One of the most thorough self-bleeding videos I've seen.
Thanks guys that was a very awesome and helpful video I will be doing that today
2:43 you put the cap back onto the Master Cylinder not only to keep dirt from getting into the master cylinder but MORE IMPORTANTLY so that when you press on the brake pedal you don't BLOW brake fluid ALL OVER THE PLACE which will happen if you don't put the cap back onto the master cylinder.
Thank you 1A auto for helping us DIy guys
Use DEEP SOCKET to BREAK bleeder screw. Then once broken can use wrench. I BREAK my bleeders once a year to avoid rusted bleeders. Even new cars.
Dude.... Soda bottle was THE HIT! THANK YOU!
+ReverendXero Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
I greatly appreciate your video. Out of all the videos on here, yours was the best one. I just finished a rear brake job on my 06 HHR and it was a horrible experience. I don't ever want to go through that ever again. The worst part were the main springs. Took two days to finish. Thank you for all your help!
I enjoy learning every time.
I ride a 2017 JK Wrangler.
My question is, is there an intake that has a throttle installed above the lower intake? The lower intake licked when I applied 7.4ft-lbs of torque to the 8 bolts that attach it, how can I fix it?
For this method to work, The hose need to point up then down to prevent the fluid and air from returning back to the caliper. You did that in the video but failed to mention this important step. Good job though
Does the bottle need to be under or above the caliper ?
The bleeder valve designed one way out. So don’t worry about the fluid will returned!
@@TN-bm6dh bleeder valve is NOT a check valve (one way out). Though there are special AFTERMARKET bleeder valves that are one way out; i think they are called speed bleeders or something similar.
Well unless you are holding your bottle even with the bleeder valve while the drain hose is attached you should be ok. This is simple physics. One end of the hose needs to be pointing g down the other end pointing up. Should have no issues with this process.
@@TN-bm6dh that is simply not true, unless you put speed bleeders on
Question: since brakes are generally power-assisted, I wonder if the engine has to be running when "pumping the brakes"? Thank you for clarifying. 2022/08/18. Ontario, Canada.
You should warn people attempting this, that on older vehicles the bleeder screw is going to be seized and may strip. Plan on having new bleeder screws or even new calipers once you round the old bleeder screws.
I don't believe that is 1A Autos job to begin with. He did mention that if it's an older caliper the bleeder valve could be seized and to be careful, and if need be use the boxed end.
PB blaster or Zep Pro, torch, soak, torch, repeat and they will usually come loose without breaking.
he does... he says u may want to use the box end of the wrench...
@@VndNvwYvvSvv Great tip; what kind of torch is best and will it burn or explode with penetrating oil near valve? Thank you
Do new calipers come with bleeder valves attached? Thanks
7:32 by NOT closing the bleeder screw between pumps of the brake pedal, AREN'T you DRAWING air BACK into the caliper ? Isn't there some kind of CHECK VALVE that could be used if you don't have a second person at the caliper closing the bleeder screw between pumps of the brake pedal ?
Best instructional video on brake bleeding I've seen yet. Thanks! :)
+Jennifer Kevresian Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Method works great 👍
I love it! What a great way to bleed brakes. No mess at all...I've done it many times but it always leaves a mess all over and a sore throat.
Sore throat you ask? Yep, that comes from yelling back and forth to the other person in drive seat as to when to press down pedal and/or allow it to come back up. :)
+Tom McDaniel Thanks for watching. Keep us in mind in the future if you need parts for your vehicle. 1aauto.com
I was worried you were drinking the brake fluid.
I was worried he was doing something else....
Lol I used to yell at my wife you sure your foots all the way down n she yells back yea so then I’d open it and close it but now thanks to this video ima try it by myself.
@@1AAuto 3
how u know or When do u fully flush out replace all brake fluid?
Is it always necessary ?
Brake fluid used to be all DOT3 now DOT4 stuff.. hygroscopic blahblah means absorb moisture water which H2O so air gets in eventually? too.
guess lot of chemistry and physics go into brake fluid.
In cold winters rust loves grows overnote onetal esp near ocean coasts right..
Can u tell visually or feel of slimy brake fluid or go by time years or mileage on brake fluid useful life ?
Is it hard to drain it all out or have to flush lines and master cyl under pressure ?
Do a vid on it plz
I've tried that and it works great. I used a strong magnet with a string on the bottle neck so it wouldn't fall over.
Good idea!
Great video i need to do this to my car but where can i get that type of hose you used?
i use a little longer hose on the right side and left side so i can actually see when the bubbles stop while looking out the open driver/passenger doors
Nice idea
I would remove the existing fluid from the reservoir first and use fresh fluid.
Brilliant..God bless we old timers (pre interweb) have been doing this since 1986 ..
Thank you for making a video !
So basically all he’s doing is stepping on the pedal letting all the air bubbles out of the system. Than when it’s clear he tightens the bleeder valve and makes sure the reservoir is full?
correct
Do we have to start up the engine while bleeding the air ?
@@maxline121 no
i have made one of these in the past with a magnet attached to the side of bottle to hold to frame. I also use a couple of folding make up mirrors so i can watch the fluid/bottle from in the car so you dont have to keep getting out to check..works great
If I only replace my two front or two rear brakes, do I need to bleed all four lines?
That intro is WAY better. Thumbs up. Good narrator as well. Oh and bleed valves never turn that easy lol
+myCarRepairChannel Thanks for watching. 1aauto.com
gti5
They do if you hit 'em with a shot of PB Blaster twice a couple of days before you try to bleed the brakes.
And this method works like a champ, especially if you have the bottle above the bleed valve; every bleeder procedure I've seen before had it below the bleed valve and has been a royal PITA to do.
And get yourself a large hemostat to pinch off the hose an inch or so above the bleed valve.
Excelente video, gracias por compartir, saludos.
Great video. Suggestion: before starting the process go around first and make sure each bleeder valve is loose enough to be opened once you get to it... and to make sure the wrench size is correct for each valve (believe it or not the size is not always standard especially if a non OEM brake part had ever been installed).
If one or all are not easily opened you can do what’s necessary to free up the valves, before starting the process with the bottle.
I was trying to do it with a wrench and almost stripped the valve just because I didn't want to take the tire off. I used a socket with ratchet to loosen them before completely using a wrench.
A line wrench is a good option too. Never stripped one while use it.
@@Rock_Reggae_Riff Most definitely. Good advice, for sure.
I agree
This is a great suggestion. I just did the brakes on my Miata and I checked the bleeders first. 3 of them broke off like they were made out of plastic!
My only question is when do you know when you are done pumping the brakes for each tire?
When you dont see anymore air bubbles in the line or the bottle then you are ready to tighten the bleeder and go to the next one .
Nice. I was using another person to help me get finished faster the last time and there seemed to be a problem. You never really know what the other person is doing if you can't see it. I honestly prefer to do everything myself. It may take longer, but at least I know it's being done right if everything rests on me. This will help me work alone and be thorough.
No more wife beating the brake pedal! And, thanks for that zip-tie idea.
+StuckInMyGarage Thanks for watching!!
Absolutely phenomenal tutorial. Things to help note for newbies (that I had to learn via the school of hard knocks) are:
1) Make sure the container with your clean brake fluid is ABOVE the brake bleeder valve. This ensures that you're not just dumping in a ton of liquid, and that air is for certain being released.
2) Gotta gotta gotta make sure that master cylinder cap is on and SCREWED ON (unlike other styles of brake bleeding that take it off or rest it on the top).
3) Some brake fluid is gonna fill into the container. I'm not 100% sure this isn't my own personal error, but I can also see fluid flowing into our mechanic's bottle as seen in this video, so I'm assuming that is to be expected. If you've got old, dirty brake fluid in there that you're bleeding, it'll contaminate the new brake fluid. This is really just best for air, at least in my experience/opinion.
Of course if any old pros or mechanics have corrections for an apprentice like me I'd love to hear them. Thanks so much to all you at 1A Auto for your supremely helpful and informative videos!
+Amand Edvard Thanks for the feedback!
2:00. you don't need to use new brake fluid there, just remove the old one from the reservoir and put it inside, so you don't waste new fluid.
Question: I just need to change my front driver's side caliper, do I still need to bleed all four spots? Or just the one I'm working on?
+Charles Masden Thanks for watching! You will be introducing air into the brake lines, so you will want to brake the whole system!
I only do the brake I'm working on. The banjo fitting is only disconnected for less than a minute so I don't see how air can migrate back thru the whole system.
1A Auto Parts should show professional tools to be use when doing a job. A standard 2 sided wrench is NOT the proper tool to use on brake jobs. Please show the right tools to use. Nice job though.
I’ve seen it where a person cracks open the bleeder valve for a second or two has the helper pump and hold the brake , then they close the valve and then the helper released the brake. This method does not require the closing and opening of the valve many times as I’ve seen before . Please advise why others do it in the aforementioned method
Listen at 5:20
5:05 I assume it is important to have the bottle higher than the bleed valve.
I'll be dammed If it didn't work like a charm. Bang on !🤘
Great video. I have 2013 Honda Fit with ABS in the front but my Haynes manual provides an order for bleeding and starts at left front. Seems opposite of what is mentioned here and most other places I've looked....
Great! Nice work guys. Just what I needed, especially since my friends are all rich and just take their cars to the shop when they need brake work. Can't get them to help me bleed my brakes. Lol.
you need new friends
@@odogg4447 right - i dont even know ol dude and i'd help him. good to be self-sufficient tho - for this very reason
Thank you for the feedback! +William Lorenz Media
then they are not good friends then
My best friend is a 2x4 that is doing the pedal brake push!! lol 😂
very good video
Spray the bleeder screw with good penetrating oil the day before and when ready to do the work...first loosen the screw with a six point socket, then proceed as normal. Also actually having a protective cap on the screw will limit rust to the outside
+Nathen Stoneburgh Thanks for the feedback! 1aauto.com
I've bled brakes with seized or broken off bleeder screws by having someone pump the brakes until the piston comes out of the cylinder. I hold the piston against the cylinder to allow fluid to come out but no air to get in. Then I push the piston back in. This method is easier on drum brakes that have two smaller pistons with one being slightly higher than the other and that's the one that I bleed air from.
This is a good and possibly the only way to avoid having to replace the cylinder or caliper and risk the possibility of breaking a brake line or fitting when everything is badly rusted.
Rsole makes no sense.. if ya got broken bleeder screw... It's always gonna be sucking getting air into system at bleeder screw ... So how can yur brakes even work correctly at all ?!? will always have some or lot air getting in right? smfh omg
I wish every single instructional video out there was this clear and easy to follow along.
Beyond preem work!
I replaced the master cylinder than bleed it and than bleed the brakes, I installed new rotors and new brakes with the same old calipers and hoses. I see fluid when bleeding driver and passenger wheel, but when I drive I see smoke on the passenger side and the caliper is locked, I can hear the rubbing. What can be the problem and also what solution do you suggest? Thank you.
I always appreciate your videos. They’re the best out there.
No excess, to-the-point, organized, and very clear.
How u do this bleeding thing on older small '07 Toyota Corolla w frt disc but rear Drum brakes ???
(no ABS no ABS ) So how u do bleed rear drums ??? rear drums. on the rear drums ?
15" wheels/rims.. sits outside no garage.. like most people
Toyota '07 Corolla 155,000 miles - got used, me am 3rd owner... no clue what if how was really maintained before me. ( but overall good shape decent allaround) it's small car... compared to this big lug in vid
Live in Boston rust belt, freezing cold snow slush winters.. ok? ok
Car sits alot not drive everyday
This past week not drive it 5 days bc so hott humid weather July been 95-98'F hot hot.
** [[ Car sat for 5 days... My left rear drum blew 1 shoe pad worn fell off inside drum cover seems like (defective?) but was old rusty. ( car brakes been prior this ok like normal but always been lil spongy but work ok.. drive car eazzy like grandmamoses)
So..Going only slow 25mph side street at nite lil cooler out.. touched brakes slow down at yellow traffic lite.. suddenly hear
really quick loud zingg snapp sound... then screaming LOUD banshee screech like for8sec.. and car slowed suddenly . . like rear wheels dragging .. pulled over.. Left rear wheel rim pretty hot heated up.. but not right rear. Drive half mile tp buddymechanic his hse.. jack up.. try spin wheels. Left is stuck not spin at all.. right rear ok spins. Have to wd40 all 5 lugs both rear wheels... hard get off just the wheels. Then gotta slamm slam longhndl sledgehammer to drum covers 800x to get off. 3 hours later.. Find Left rear w worn piece drum shoe pad falls out w drum cover to ground. Right rear drumcover hard hard to get off.. but shoes pads cyl all look ok intact. Right ok.. bu Left rear fcckkdUp...]] **
wD40 is great lifesaver get rusty lugnuts drum cover off. omg great stuff.. works.
So what was that huge scary screammming sound noise?
Never heard experienced this in 40yrs driving different cars some old, new, rentals etc. My cars mostly older rusty small cars.
What was that ? What happened?
What caused this ?
Today just had cert mechanic at decent reputable busy svc repair place..(I know owner 40yrs in biz.) the brake mechanic Ted removed and replaced both Left Right rear whole drum assembly w new parts.. and did new Wagner drum shoes.. but kept same drum cover was in ok decent shape .
( very hard to get parts tooo... Remember this!! esp now!! supplychain bullshitzz)
He did not bleed brakes or system after installing. I did not see him even pop the hood check fluid levels once... (but I might have missed that). I asked him - Do ya need bleed brakes? he mumbles "no.. will adjust after driving.. self adjust." ( i sorta agree drums will selfadjust? I guess w lil cyl screw and stupid springs in drum assembly)
( kinda believe sorta trust? this guy has lot experience knows brakes fix lot of cars .. pretty good niceguy.. owner knows likes him)
He took car for spin test drive it. says ok.. if any probs " just bring back can adjust" ... me ok.
BUT... brake pedal still lil too mushy for me. .travels too long still like has done for most past 3yrs. makes me nervous.
I want pedal solid hard tight, couple inches travel only at most ( like new again). is it possible?
What is wrong ? Will bleeding help this ? Flush out put in all brand new brake fluid?
I watch care maintain car good for 3yrs now. Brake fluid been ok looks clear clean at max line mark on white top lil reservoir. ( Corolla '07 kinda dbl reservoir system w lil one above bigger reservoir below it)
Gonna take it back have Ted check it again .. this succks
I saw him on the new parts careful adjust the both rear drum cylinder screw adjuster thingy for cylinder/ spring crap.
ohh This cost me $365 for this rear drum parts/ labor .. thot was decent price. ( kinda expected cost more like $400-500) so good price.
Anyhow... fckkkn drums SUCKKK really.. too much crap parts mechanical shittzz hard to do pia pia need muscle, pliers etc etc. Old ancient tech
Disc brakes ONLY way to go !!! Ted, most mechanics agree too.
Wish I had on all 4 wheels.
pss.. Rust suckks such a killer. .ask me I know 5 cars lifetime.. eust is loving me talented monster..never stops. just suckkkks. Car fixing diy is whole diff life up NorthrustLand.
Help pls .. thx
love 1Aauto
+Abraham MMA Thanks for checking us out! 1auto.com
ibrxhim MMA I
Does the bottle have to be above the bleeder or can you set it on the floor
I successfully did all the method of do the entire system again. :'D
I just replace the rear brakes and rotors on a 2004 toyota sequoia, do I need to fo the bleeding process on all 4 tires?
1aauto is awesome 😎 I just used this method on my 03 Ram 1500 after replacing a brake line while doing a full suspension job. I hate brake bleeding but I love this method!!
Great instruction but 👎 because too many commercials!! The entire video is an instructional advertisement for 1A Auto. But 1st they make an extra fraction of a penny by showing us 3rd party ads. Then when instructional advertisement starts we're held hostage for 1 minute of generic ad for 1A Auto. Then the great instruction FINALLY begins.... only to be interrupted by yet another 3rd party ad so 1A Auto can make another fraction of a penny.
Ever notice how you'll be watching a TV commercial for Coke and then the Coke ad will be interrupted by an ad for a different product? Me either.
couple things: 1) make sure to suck the old fluid out of reservoir before pouring new one (turkey baster, or large syringe), 2) you don't need to take wheels off on most cars to access the bleeder. I just roll my car on top off a ramp and do 2 wheels at a time - much faster. Some car (like Prius) has special mode to bleed rear wheel (electronic control motor pump), some car take DOT 4 (like BMW). 3) before removing the hose, make the tube/Drain bottle go BELOW so when you squeeze tube out you get gravity to self draining to the bottle instead of making a mess. 4) use a clear bottle/hose so you can see dirty fluid/particles (sign of maybe bigger problem).
Also I don't get why you put new fluid in the bottle - with the hose going up from the screw, any air bubble will move up and not get sucked back down when you release the pedal (which tends to be a lot less than push anyway) beside the tube will eventually fill but doesn't need to and doesn't start that way anyway...
Out in the ether- "Can you just remove the old fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster ( and "then" put in new fluid) and call it good, or is it "absolutely" necessary to bleed the whole system?
Is the car on or off??
Just did my rears today, and I had to idle my engine when pumping the brake pedal....
Do you do this process with the vehicle on or off
Off
Exact same question I had
Off
Off
If the car is off, you can't press the brake pedal. Think.
Is brake fluid and steering fluid pretty much same thing or interchangeable ( sorta) ?
Both look clear similar and pour and feel slippery same. So ?
Can you use brake fluid ( in a pinch) for steering fluid ?
I would not risk it other way around and use other for the brakes.. for sure.
But what if pulled made a bozobonehead move and added lil of one or other into other during a small fillup topoff ? small amount let's say.?
Gonna hurt or danger or harm really?
today everything so expensive... both cost good amt of $ .. so.
+phill p Thanks for watching! While they are both hydraulic fluids you really want to use what the system calls for.
I like clever ideas, I tried this and it worked perfectly! I say “Thank you”, great tip.
+Mark B Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
So you leave the cap on during this?
I’m debating between
A coke plastic bottle
Or
A jarrito de tamarindo plastic bottle . 😊
I’ll have to do this procedure in my O1 WJ 4.O L .
But got to spray WD 40 first to the brake bleeders .
Looks like I'll be taking this goofy pump back then, getting my money back, thanks guys.. great video.
The tube should loop above the valve for trapping air bubbles.
Or they will keep rising up.
Just did this on my 2014 Kia Soul. I did have to start & idle my engine to do the brake pedal pumping. It would only pump maybe 1 time each interval otherwise
Very important to notice that he set the bottle above the height of the bleeder valve. I had mine sitting on the garage floor and went through 2 large bottles of fluid before I figured it out.
Just tried your method here today on a 2003 S10 front brake disc brake calipers and it worked like a charm! Thank you very much for sharing this idea. I used one of my lorex wireless cameras to keep an eye on the bottle while I pumped the brakes.
Great video
+Danny's do it yourself car video Honda civic lx 05 Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
I am going to try this right now. Thanks very much.
Well, I made the one-man bleeding bottle this afternoon and replaced the rear calipers, rotors, and pads on my 2004 Jetta TDI wagon. The one-man bleeding bottle works like a champ. I'll keep it in my shop for the next brake job. Thanks for the great idea. It really works great!
When come out outside who hold brake pedal
XXX
@@anowzanaw879 you hold the pedal so air does not come back in. With this method, it's drawing fluid in from the bottle so no need to hold pedal. Make sense?
Use the box end of the wrench always....
Just wanted tor each out and say thank you. Just used your guide as part of pads, rotors, flush. Excellent instruction.
Nice tips in general except the 3/16 hose, it's way too small, pretty much the size of the hole in the bleeder. I've try pretty hard and there is no way to get that on. Guess i'm gonna do another ride to the part store...
love the video👍
If it has abs do you need to bleed the system with the ignition on.
Awesome. Thanks for this video.