Ford Expedition heated seats not working | Simple & Cheap Fix
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- Опубликовано: 14 дек 2022
- "Why do my heated seats not work on my Ford Expedition?"
If that is the question you are asking yourself, I might just have the fix for your Ford Expedition. In this Video I am showing you how to diagnose heated seats on a 2015 Ford Expedition Limited. This will not only fix your heated seats but fix cooled seats on Ford Expedition.
This could also fix the heated seats in your F150, if heated seats in F150 not working.
Of course you have to check to the fuse first on your Ford if the heated seats don't work. But on the Ford I was working on, the fuse was fine. So I followed the wire for the heated seat module, called "dual climate control seat module" (DCSM). When I unplugged the module, I could see the problem right away. The connector was melted right where the power was going into the module. Of I'm showing you how to unplug stuck heated seat module connector.
Just watch the Video to find out how I fixed the connector and got the heated and cooled seats working in this Ford Expedition.
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#autotechworld #fordexpedition #heatedseats 
Авто/Мото
I may be wrong, but 9:45-10:00 is a significant mistake IMO.
The whole reason this ground pin burns out is because the single ground cannot carry the load. The replacement hardness has an extra grounding wire to alleviate this, but you just bent it out of the way and left it hanging because it didn't exist on the original harness. This means the same issue can just happen again. It's my understanding that both the extra wire and the burnt out pin are both grounds, so the idea is to alleviate the issue by tying them both together to distribute the current across both grounds so they don't overheat like that.
I can't say for sure, but from what I can tell from the Ford service paper, that pin is not being used.
It is pin "L" on connector "C3265A". It says "Circuit Function: Not Used".
Whether the pin inside the control module is contacted to ground, I don't know. I guess one could do a continuity test and see if it is the same circuit as pin "M", which is the ground.
@@AutoTechWorld_DIY Yeah. I've read reports from people online that there's continuity between L and M, but I haven't verified this personally.
I plan on doing this fix to my mustang, so when I get it apart I will test if there's continuity and reply back.
You do that. I'd be curious to know.
@@AutoTechWorld_DIY I tested it, there's continuity between the two pins (the corner and the one next to it horizontally (L&M)) ('16 Mustang). I joined them together when I fixed the wiring and the heated & cooled seats work fine. I think joining them like this is a better alternative so you don't melt that pin again. Joining them 2 to 1 is a bit tough since they're thicker gauge, but most people will figure out a way to do it, I'm sure.
Hey I really appreciate you coming back letting me know. Thank you
Thank you for your post. I have a 2015 Lincoln Navigator and the set-up and issue was exactly the same. Because this never happened in the first 9 years of ownership, I did not change the original wiring as suggested. What I did do differently is this. Because I have changed out the connector to my coil packs by backing out the wires from the bottom of the Molex connection, I thought it would work here as well. I wanted to save time and bypass the time-consuming headache of splicing the wires. Two issues doing it this way : The power wire, bottom left (white and black), was the one that was melted. I figured that I had to splice at least that one. The larger challenge, however, was to try and slide-out the Molex wire lock (grey top that holds the wires in place slides horizontally by pushing the square tab on the side and sliding it out). Unfortunately, it was melted in place. With the locking key melted in place the release can not open enough to slide the wire out with the lock in place. So I had to figure out how to separate the connector and get the lock out without damaging the female connectors. It was cumbersome, but doable. I used needle nose pliers, a hack saw blade, Molex keys to pry behind the lock tab and various size screw drivers to carefully break-off tiny pieces of the black housing. The empty slot was a good place to start because I could break any connectors. It took a little while moving slowly and methodically until all of the wires were out. FYI; the grey wire locking key never slid out. I used a zip tie to separate the upper from the lower wires and carefully noted what colors went where. Reinserting them was a breeze, 1 minute. No splicing, save for one. I hope this gives everyone a simpler solution.
That would also be a much cleaner repair. Thanks for your comment.
Very good. Thanks for the video
Your welcome
Thank you, problem solved. Same burn out on pin.
Crazy eh?
I had same problem, just added another ground wire to base of seat and spliced into existing ground on harness. Bingo bango heat and cooled seats again
Good for you 👍
Is there Anyway to bypass the sync unit. My seats currently already have heated/cooled but only through stock sync 2 radio can I control them. Looking to upgrade head units as sync two is slow and the sync 2 to 3 kit is not worth it when I can get a way better unit for the price. Wondering if I can just find all wires/ modules and put a physical switch/button instead of the digital buttons found in sync climate? All other steering wheel controls etc would be fine through head unit but pretty sure I just end up forfeiting my seating functionality.
Sounds like you want to get in there pretty deep. I have never done it. But id think you could do that
why wouldnt you just move all the good wires over to the new plug and repair the damaged one?? seems like a lot of work cutting/soldering all the wires
The idea is not bad. But I think I wasn't able to get the connector apart.
Its probably a factory warranty job that hast to be done that way.
Does anybody know if this is a common issue with most fords. My driver seat heat has stopped working but passenger is good. I do not have cooled/ventilation on the seats. I could just pull the plug to check. Im surprised the module wasn't damaged and probably would have tested the seats prior to reassembly. Thanks for the info!
It is a fairly common issue apparently.
While a t55 will work the correct tool is a tp55. I have the same issue and sence this is not a warranty job and I do not wish to address this problem in the future I will be soldering the 3 wires directly to the terminals and run those wires through the connector.
Interesting. I had not thought about it. That should give a good connection 👍
my heated ac switch light come on then back off on the front 2 seats the back seats work still. was yours the same way?
It's a customer vehicle, he didn't mention about a light coming on. But it was the same as in, the rear still worked while the front didn't.
I am not having this exact problem, but my heated and cooled seats in a 2010 Taurus do not work. Lights turn on and then quickly off. I removed that connector from the DSCM and found no burnt pins, and tested the DSCM to find that there is power and ground however there's no communication to it from the dash. Also if you know where the pinout diagram for the DSCM connector is that'd be great.
Sorry, can't help you with that. Have never run into that issue before.
@@AutoTechWorld_DIY If you have a pin diagram for the DSCM I would greatly appreciate it
@hoofaa17 Sorry, but you'll have to Google that.
Would this be the same basic repair for my 2010 Mercury Mariner? My heated seats stopped working and the fuse is good. If so, is the module located in the same location under the seat? Thanks for the great video. I'll subscribe and check out your other ones.
Thank you very much. I would think so...
I haven't fixed it yet, but I have the problem pinned down. It's common for a pin in the electrical connector to the heated seat controller under the passenger seat to burn out. They sell a replacement pigtail connector that you can splice in. I haven't bought one yet. Waiting for summer.
Do the lights light up properly (Red for heat and Blue for cold) but the seat doesn't do either? Does the fan not power up either?
Not to sure about the lights. I thought they still worked, couldn't say for sure though. But no, the fan doesn't power up either.
This is what is happening to me. Will be replacing upcoming weekend and keep you posted
Confirmed. Even with the module removed the lights came on and stayed on. Burnt connector, replaced the pigtail and heated seats are working once again.
Thank you.
Try not to wreck anything. Famous last words.
😂
Does this prevent it from burning out?
It could eventually burn out again. Check the pinned comment. There is some info on how you could possibly prevent it from burning out again.
What does this repair typically cost in a repair shop?
I charged the customer 230$. Not sure what others would charge.
Sorry, not sure if that helps?
Will this work for a 2004 expedition?
I'm not sure. You'll probably just have to check and see if you have that module under the seat. Sorry about that