Kohler K532 Full Engine Teardown Timelapse & Parts Review
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- Опубликовано: 10 июл 2024
- I recently got my hands on a Kohler K532 which came out of a John Deere 400 Garden Tractor. The previous owner told me this engine was running and smoking when he took it out of his tractor. I know I can literally fix anything, so let me see what I can do!
The engine turned over by hand very easy, so I wasn't quite sure what was wrong. I've already had some hands-on experience with a K532 on my Bolens HT20. That engine was only resealed (Head gasket & some others gasket were changed). This engine is specific to a John Deere, as it has the correct baffles which John Deere ordered from the Kohler factory. As I tear into this engine, I will be able to recognize what issue this engine has and once everything is cleaned up I'll bring you back for a Part 2 on this engine.
Trust me I will get this engine going again very soon!!
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Watch My Previous Rebuilds:
𝐉𝐨𝐡𝐧 𝐃𝐞𝐞𝐫𝐞 𝟑𝟎𝟎:bit.ly/3BbuWDz
𝐉𝐨𝐡𝐧 𝐃𝐞𝐞𝐫𝐞 𝟑𝟏𝟕:bit.ly/3wHy2x5
𝗕𝗼𝗹𝗲𝗻𝘀 𝗛𝗧𝟮𝟬 𝗣𝗿𝗼𝗷𝗲𝗰𝘁: bit.ly/2NOLvlp
𝗔𝗹𝗹𝗶𝘀 𝗖𝗵𝗮𝗹𝗺𝗲𝗿𝘀 𝐂/𝐁 𝗧𝗿𝗮𝗰𝘁𝗼𝗿: bit.ly/3bvXLzd
𝗧𝗵𝗼𝗺𝗮𝘀 𝗛𝗟𝟭𝟳𝟯 𝗦𝗸𝗶𝗱 𝗦𝘁𝗲𝗲𝗿: bit.ly/3pDTBKM
𝗝𝗼𝗵𝗻 𝗗𝗲𝗲𝗿𝗲 𝟔𝟖/𝟕𝟎 𝗣𝗿𝗼𝗷𝗲𝗰𝘁: bit.ly/3bKGra3
𝐁𝐨𝐛𝐜𝐚𝐭 𝟕𝟓𝟑 𝐏𝐫𝐨𝐣𝐞𝐜𝐭: bit.ly/37EDeaD
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Timestamps:
00:00 Intro
00:45 Timelapse
07:02 Parts Review 
Авто/Мото
I can't say these early K series opposed twins are my favorite engine, but they certainly are stout and tough. I've seen them in skid steers, pavers, generators, welders, pumps, and so much more.
I have similar feelings about the opposed engines. They have a nice amount of power, but there are some nicer engines out there! They sure did use them in many applications and they were quite trustworthy. I will work on some more Kohler engines in the near future, but I would like to get my hands on some of the other projects I have laying around...urgh it's not always easy!
Cool nice detailed video those are good engines
Thank you! They are built very well, but they do need to get maintained...and that's where some people bust them! Cheers
They are a torque monster
I fully agree, these old Kohler engines have quite a bit of torque in them! Regards Andreas
I have watched all of your k532 videos several times and have not seen the answer to my question.
At the 8:21 point in the video you note the pistons with a .030 overbore. You stated something like “ I will see what we can do about that”. What did you do? It is my understanding that it is the largest overbore and another block is necessary. If you answered this situation , please direct me to the video.
I do all my research for various projects on RUclips. You definitely have a talent for an organized and articulate presentation. Your earlier videos were difficult because of the audio. Content great , audio was crippling.
Stay with it. You are a valuable resource.
Happy Hloidays!
I'm sorry that I wasn't able to answer your question yet, but I'll try my best right now. This Kohler K532 was purchased before I had my John Deere 400! This actually came out of a John Deere 400 and the previous owner told me it was smoking more than usual. Once I had it at home I took it apart and I figured out it was already bored 0.030" over and the cylinders were both worn! A standard Kohler K532 bore is 3.375" and 0.030" over is 3.405". The bores on this engine were past that measurement and in this video I mentioned I would have to see what I can do about it. I DID NOT rebuild this engine, as I might just keep it for parts.
Usually when a bore is oversize, it can be resleeved. What that means is, you bore the cylinders to a greater size and a steel-sleeve will be inserted. These sleeves usually have a wall thickness or 3/32" or around 2.5mm. Once the sleeve is in place, it can be machined down to the original size and your bore will be back to original (3.375" in this case).
As for the engine that came out of my JD400, the cylinders were standard size. Upon measuring I figured out only one cylinder was worn, so I decided to pass the block to a local machine shop. I went with 0.010" oversize pistons and they machined the cylinders out accordingly.
So I technically have two Kohler K532's, one in the JD400 fully rebuilt and one which could technically be rebuilt with sleeves (back to original).
Speaking of Kohler K532's the bore of this engine could be bored out to 3.5" to accommodate bigger pistons (just like a K582=23HP), but I'm not sure if that's a good idea. It's very possible, but it may cause earlier failure!
I hope I was able to clarify this situation and if you have any other questions please let me know! I appreciate sharing my knowledge and I try my best to give my viewers the best viewing experience. Thank you for your kind words David! I'm trying to get better as time passes and I'm learning A LOT! Thank you once again and all the best to you too!
Do you have a video on removing the engine from the tractor. I too, have a john deere 400 and would like to try abs fix some oil leaks. Thank you, and great videos.
Hi J, yes I have a complete video where I tear the John Deere 400 down to the bare frame!
At minute 15:08 in this video: ruclips.net/video/T7O2mwsXGsc/видео.html
you can see me remove the engine and the components around it. I hope this helps!🛠 Thanks a lot, I appreciate your words!😃👍🏽 Regards Andreas
Nice video! I hade a feling it would be another kohler :). Do you have a tractor you can put this in? You can get the rebild kit from Isavetractors. Have you ever worked on an onan? It would be cool if you could get a 318 with a onan b43g or p218g. I an looking to ad a 318 to my two 317's. if you look into one try and git a 1987. Best Regards!
Thank you so much! Haha I have had quite a few Kohler engines in the last few episodes! I do not have a tractor for this engine. An older gentleman removed it from his garden tractor are strictly replaced it. I would like to have it it running condition and then I can always figure out what to do with it :D I will indeed purchase my parts from isavetractors! I have not worked on an Onan engine before, but I've heard many good things about them! I always keep my eyes open for deals, so we'll see what comes next! A 318 is a totally different machine and you might not want to drive your 317's after you've been on a 318! They just made a complete tractor out of the 318 with many positive upgrades...nontheless, every garden tractor has it's pros & cons:) Cheers
Question:
From 2:45 to 2:48, how you take the left heat shield with the dipstick off?
At 2:48 it is missing the shield.
Do you cut it off?
Because the dipstick end is to big to take the shield away just normal...
Im stuck on this part on my kohler 532.
Greats from switzerland
The heatshield has been cut at the most narrow point and it was bent up 90 degrees to be removed. I didn't want to remove the dipstick housing from the oil pan, because it was not leaking. To reassemble it will be very easy too, just install the plate and bend that tab back down.
Ich hoffe das hilft dir! Han zuvor au ide Schwiiz gwohnt. Grüess us Kanada.
Thanks for the quick answer!
Ja merci hilft witer.
Ich hoffe dasis fertig bringe daser wider richtig lauft....
Es het uf einisch komisch tönt und de ischer nur no uf eim zylinder gloffe....
Hoffe uf wenig schade.
Bisch i de schwiiz ufgwachse und in canada hangä bliebe?
Bin vor genau 10 jahr au dänne gsi in manitoba zum e saison de horizont im farming erwitärä.
Good times!
Ja hoffentlich ischs ned en grosse schade! De Kohler K532 het immer chli probleme gha mitm rechte zylinder. De chunt ebe als letschts öl über, und das chan über eh lengeri ziit de zylinder/kolbe beschädige.
Am beste duesch de öl-druck ganz ufedreihe! Jetzt wirsch vilicht müesse öppis repariere...du wirsch es denn gse.
Immer wieder hin un zrugg haha, chan mich nanig ganz entscheide. Beidi länder sind super, darum gnüssis jetzt chli.
Es isch ziimli andest als ide Schwiiz, aber hoffentlich hets dir gfalle. Bin momentan in Alberta und das isch scho recht wiit weg vo Manitoba!
Gnüss dis wuchened! -Andreas
do you have any videos or tips on how to clean carbon off the top of pistons, valves and heads.
Hi J. I've made a video in the past where I clean a complete Kohler K341 engine block and within that video I share some of my tricks and tips. (Video: ruclips.net/video/Q9R9R3A7xkg/видео.html )
If you want to remove carbon build up, I can recommend a flat scraper and steel wool. First try and get the loose stuff off with the scraper and try not do "dig" into the metal. After that, use steel wool to achieve a smooth and even surface finish.
I hope this helps!
Kolar k 582 qs replaced coil replaced fuel pump replaced fuel filter. will start but will not keep running. Throttle arm will open the cab up all the way and the motor dies. Thankyou!
You're probably getting fuel on the initial startup, but your carburetor does not supply the correct amount needed to idle or run the engine. This is most likely caused by a dirty or clogged carburetor.
Most engines that run solely on Choke, have a carb-related issue. Clean it with some degreaser and make sure all passage ways are clean. Put it back on and make sure your linkages are in place. Try and see if it idles and runs with higher rpm settings after that. Cheers
I'm still having trouble with that front plate. I removed the seal and snap ring, is there something else I'm missing? Or could it just be that stuck on there.
Hi J! Yes it is a very tight fit. The inside diameter of the radial bearing is snug on the crankshaft. I would suggest you try and add some heat to the inner race of the bearing. If you have a heat gun use that, but if you only have an open flame be careful that your bearing doesn‘t get too hot!
You could damage it. Do not heat it up over 80C.
I hope this solves your issue
I'm having trouble with the front plate. I have the motor out and all the front bolts out. Is there anything I need to take off the back like the flywheel, or is it just stuck on? Thank you.
Hi J. Are you talking about the cover that closes off the engine right behind the flywheel? If so, there are about 10 bolts threaded in from the font into the engine block and 3-4 bolted in from the back to the cover. once those bolts are removed you should be able to remove this cover without any issues.
At minute 04:41 you will se me remove the governor and there are some bolt holes in the back I already removed. Those bolts I'm talking about...and at minute 04:44 I removed the last bolts from the front.
I hope this helps
@@WorkshopRebuild sorry for the miscommunication, I'm taking about the plate you take off at the 6:00 minute mark. Mine seems really right, that's why I was wondering if I was missing something. Thank you.
@@user-rd8es2bm2r No worries, I understand now! You must remove the seal in order to get access to the snapring below.
Once you remove the snapring, the bearing should slide off. If you have a hard time, try applying a little bit of heat (but not too much, because you have a radial bearing there.
Do you have any tips for removing valves with out the tool?
Hi J, great question! If you have a enough room for a two mid size flat-screwdrivers or even smaller prybars, you can probably apply enough strength against the spring to the point where the valve keepers will fall out.
Assembling it this way will be hard, but you can always try. I hope this helps. Regards Andreas
Do you have a link for a good one to get?
@@user-rd8es2bm2r If you need a prybar or screwdriver, I would actually suggest you pick up a valve spring compressor tool. This one will work perfectly and it might be within your budget for this repair: amzn.to/3WiFJ9s
Sorry for all the questions, but I'm having trouble with the front plate on the motor. I have the motor out and all the bikes out of the front, should it come off now or do I need to take anything off the back like the flywheel? Thanks again and great, informative videos!
Does anyone know the physical dimensions of these in inches? How about peak torque output? I can't seem to locate these values anywhere.
I took a measurement: crankshaft end to end is 17", from shroud to shroud around the cylinders it 21" and the engine from top to bottom is 18" (17"x21"x18). The peak torque output can be calculated and it's very simple. Engine Max HP (19.9HP) x 5252 = 104,514.8 / 3600 (Max rpm) = 29.03 ft.lbs of torque.
I hope that helps, Best regards!
@@WorkshopRebuild Thanks a ton!