I've been following your tutorials for the CV joint replacement and it's been a total game changer. Your step by steps are second to none. Thank you. In addition I used your video to change out my gear oil as well. Can I tell you, the car shifts like a new car. One thousand percent different. Next will be the clutch. Thank you again.
I just upgraded, there’s a set from Porsche that when you buy double of them , fits the both sides, front and rear for the Syncro Vanagon. Super thick, awesome replacement!
Just used this video to rebuild my CV joints. Thanks Nate. You are owed a fair amount of beer for this. Also just saw your Baja video. My family and I have been spending the winters down there for the last five years. Mulege is amazing. Hope to see you down there sometime.
Good job on the tutorial. Glad you mentioned the clocking as most folks are not aware of that. I replaced my CV's with the Porsche 944 CV's as they have more articulation which i needed when I upgraded to the GoWesty 1.5" lift springs.
944's are on my list but I can't justify them until one or more of my Vanagon CV's need replacing. If these Tiguan boots fail I might have to look for other options and then just put in 944's at the same time. nate
After installing Gowesty 1.5'' springs my CV joint' s made noise when accelerating. Clocking was not correct either. Now go and install 944. It is very important that you install the old drive shaft in de same direction of rotating.
Thank you so much for the explanation of how to reassemble the 6 ball bearings. My logic was that wide needed to match with wide bearing channels. Assembled it and it wouldn’t articulate as you explained. Watched your explanation and it went it so easily!! Thank you. Saved my bacon on this one… 👍
Great video!! I love the way you explain it. I have been maintaining my 81 Westy since i bought it in 1984. I've done many CV joints in the past but your video is a good refresher course. Your procedure is better than mine. I highly recommend it. Thanks!!
great explanation of every thing, i never separate my joints to repack them, i feel that the wear pattern will not be disturbed if i leave them together.i just blow them out with cleaner.
That is true about the wear pattern but I would be more concerned that you are not able to inspect the balls and races properly to check for pitting or excessive wear. But at least you are putting in new grease and keeping them fresh! nate
Great video. If I may the reason those bellows are rubbing together might be an easy fix. Cut off those pinch clamps. Slide that boot out over those ribs. Then install a new pinch clamp. This will elongate the bellows and give you more space between the ribs of the bellows.
Yeah stretching the boot out would keep the ribs from rubbing but I am not sure about adding in additional "stress" into the boot. Where it sits is the natural length of the boot and after 30K miles, the ribs look almost new. If one does fail, I might try that to see if it lasts longer. Thanks for watching! nate
Excellent!!! Up until now, the Ron Chandler video for CV Assembly was the most accurate video I've seen. But you covered everything, even beyond the Joint Assembly and included clocking which is often difficult to find. Only one other thing that would be helpful is the torque value for the CV Bolts. I can't count how many other videos that I've seen that have left out important details or have given incorrect CV Assembly instructions. My Hat's off to you. Thanks! I'm saving this video in my video library to share with others.
What a great video. I thought this was complicated, but you explain it so well, it feels doable, even without a garage! PS - you were going to put the link in for the boots..
Thanks Roland. It isn't all that complicated, just a bit time consuming and messy. There is a link the the VW boots from FCP Euro in the description. nate
Good breakdown, good techniques! I hoped you'd cover things like putting both circlips in/each side of the bearings, how much extra grease you put in the cups on the axle, or drive output flange before installing.. tips on bolts, washers, keeping it all tight, any ideas like if you need to retorque after x miles.. Those axles look sharp!
I have never seen circlips on the back side of a Vanagon joint or even the use of the domed washer. These only use the circlip that was shown being taken off in the video. This video was centered on rebuilding the CV's and not a full install video on CV joints. Thanks nate
Hi thanks for this info. I have a new set of CVs with the 3 rings + 1 ring from GW, I sent them an email asking and they said "The three rings should be installed outward on the axle shaft."
Interesting, I have not heard that before and since you bought them from GW, I would definitely do that then. I may give them a call and ask why they recommend doing that. Appreciate you dropping that in the comments for us to all learn a bit more. Thanks! nate
@@ThatBaldwinLife heres the email: "The three rings should be installed outward on the axle shaft. In other words, the rings are toward the outer edge of the shaft. Thanks! Mike Wiehl Sales Manager"
Awesome step by step cv joint video. Thanks a bunch!!! If one side of the inner race has a step like ring and the other is flat, which side faces the axle?
How have the boots held up so far? Just curious. . . . I had to do the similar thing on my '91 GL after the outer bearing started to squeak. The joints fell apart on both sides as I was trying to get the spline out. This video was extremely helpful, especially after I put them back together wrong and they would not bend at all!! Thank you for all your videos!
Great video. I have an 87 auto and it started clicking on a 500km drive today. Couple of questions, what causes them to start clicking? Second would this mean I need new cv joints or would a clean and repackaged as you have shown be enough. Thanks again for the well don video
They can click if the grease turns hard or if there isn't enough grease. If you catch it early, a quick clean and grease will be fine. Take them apart (one at a time) and inspect the races and ball bearings for any abnormal wear or pitting. Some slight grooving is the races is fine. Reassemble and put in fresh CV grease. nate
ARP makes some pretty sweet HD male 12pt CV bolts but they don't work on front syncro inner joints .Not enough room for the socket. I never use allen heads .
Amazing video, thanks. one of my Cv joints have been starting to make a clack sound when under alot of loss on 1st and 2nd gear, and i was thinking maybe time to put some new grease inside them.
Yes on the floor. Our van is tall enough that we can fit under it easily. If you need more room, ramps are good but if you use jack stands, make sure they are under the trailing arm and not the body as it will put your CV joint angle to high for easy install.
Great video and very in-depth! I was wondering on the newer joints like on my 2006 Jetta TDI, where the outer race is equally spaced and there is no wider or narrower part, should you still clock it so lets say one side has the ball on the top and the other side has the "flat" portion on the top, in other words so the balls on one side are offset from the balls of the opposite side?
I am not familiar with the Jetta joints but since your CV angles are so low, I am not sure it will matter much. The clocking is really beneficial when you have more severe joint angles and allows for less binding during rotation. nate
WOW Nate you are just so mindful with your work and advice! Thank you! Wondering what your height is on the rear of your van from center of wheel hub to lip of fender? Also if you’ve considered doing the 930 axle upgrade? I’m contemplating this now and working with a mechanic to actually do the work.
We are around 17.5” in the rear with the old GoWesty 1.5” lift springs. Regarding the 930 joints, our WBX doesn’t put out enough power to cause any issues with the stock style joints. We did put in the higher angle 944 joints when we got back from Canada though. The 930 joints are great for high HP or torque engines and vans that are lifted more than ours. Chris at T3 Technique has new joints out that are like 930’s but don’t require new flanges. Nate
Ah yes, the 944 CV joints are what I’ve been looking at, not the 930s (was confused). I too have a WBX. Rear heights are 16 3/4” LR and 16 7/8” RR but going to shim LR 1/2” and RR 1/4”. Working with existing GoWesty non lifting springs. Will redo TA bushings, wheel bearings, CVs and adding Radflow shocks. Is it worth it to go up to 944 CVs or stick with German stock ones (GoWesty deluxe bundle) in your opinion? I do some off roading but am very careful. Gosh at this point I feel like I owe you a consulting fee 😉. Thank you 🙏
At that ride height and mild off roading, the stock style joints will be more than fine. They are actually a bit stronger than the 944 joints as the increased articulation for the 944's come by having smaller balls in the cages than the stock ones. If you don't find yourself binding the stock joints, I would stick with a high quality German joint. The Burley Radflo shocks are awesome and are on our list for an upgrade in the future. Also use a high quality CV joint grease like I show in the video. Do not use the Redline CV-2 grease that GW and others tout. Sounds like your van's gonna be dialed! nate
Thanks! So far the boots are holding up fine. Due to our lift, the bellows do rub together so I would expect them to eventually fail there but we will see. We bought them from FCP Euro just for their lifetime warranty on all parts so if they do fail, we send them back and get a new set. Nate
@@ThatBaldwinLife Thank you. Considering the shaft, the joint, and the boot all rotate at exactly the same time I would claim there will be no abnormal wear where the pleats come together. Again, great stuff from your channel.
Great video learned heaps. Now I know what clocking is. You didn't rebuild the CV, though just new boots and grease. My cv clicks and is very noisy. Would this procedure cure that? Is this all that goes wrong with these CV because I would like to keep the OEM CVs. Cheers
That is how you rebuild a CV joint. There are no spare parts you can put in the joint nor would you want to mix old and new parts. Your options are to rebuild like we did or buy a new one. Depending on what is wrong with your CV joint, fresh grease may fix it. If your old grease is dry and caked on, it will click. Nate
@@ThatBaldwinLife Thanks mate. It is old and caked on. But after cleaning it up about 30min ago there are score mark on the inner race. I think at some point the cv has been exposed to grit etc. So new one. Your vid has been a tremendous help so thank you again.
Not always. Sometimes the cage is hard to get off of the inner race while it is still on the axle. That was the case here and I wanted to show you can use the puller while the cage was on. Thanks! Nate
@@ThatBaldwinLife awesome! Thanks! I assume as long as it’s wide enough to keep the cage free it’s good to go. Also is the size for the bolts a M8 triple square?
Hello Nate, please I have a question for you: has the serrated washers a precise order to mount? If yes, exist a sort of mark to mount this washers in correct way? Thank you for your videos.
@@ThatBaldwinLife well the videos over two years old so I assume that’s pretty great performance. How long are they typically supposed to last? Also, would I need to order four of the kits or two of the kits?
Hi Frank. I'm a bit late to respond but I beleive the puller Nate used is called a Pitman Arm puller. You need the opening to be at least 30mm+. I'm also about to buy one myself for the same reason & same job. Hope this helps.
Hi John, that is a tough one because I have not had a CV boot last long enough to make that call. I hope these VW boots can last. If the boots hold up you can go a very long time without needing to open them up. I hope I don't have to look at these for 75K more miles. nate
He didn't show how to tighten those clamps on the small end of the boots. Good video though. I had no idea about the "lining up" aspects of these things.
I ordered a BRAND NEW GKN Lobro axle with CV joints attached from Bus Depot and it came with the 3 outer rings on the CV joint facing the axle/tranny. You mentioned that is the wrong way to have it facing. Why? Should I be concerned? Also it appeared the outer race did not have a chamfer facing the axle/tranny... its a flat edge. Again, should I be concerned? Funny, because this unit appears to be brand new from the factory.
Not uncommon. It would probably be just fine to run it the way it is, especially if you are stock height. But, if you want a lesson in CV rebuilding, you can take it apart and see how it was put together. The outer race with the three rings is not as important as I have seen them run both ways. I just try and be consistent. The inner cage should have the chamfer facing the axle. If you decide to take it apart, be aware it is a new joint and will be tight. A bit harder to install all of the balls in the cage. nate
Previous owner had those bolts torqued to like 100 foot pounds. Had to use a pipe on the breaker bar. And, no tensioner washers nor serrated washers either. Anyone know when you put the replacement axle in (I bought a whole, new axle.) how closely it should fit the space ? Right now, it seems if I get the wheel side in, I am going to be about 1/2 inch too short ! The camping trip is in a week !!!
First make sure it is the same length as the old axle. Manual transmission? They will be the same length. On an auto they are different lengths. If it appears to be the same length, it may just be the new boots that are pulling the joint back a bit. You can stretch the joint out a bit. But first make sure it is the same as the old one! Nate
Thanks for the video that was very informative. One question what torque do you use on those bolts? Any specific tightening pattetrn? Do you use any lock tite? Thanks.
Hello!! Any tips on reinstalling the CV joints on to the van? I assume you have to bolt up the wheel side first instead of the transmission side, correct? You do not use any loctight? just the special washers, correct?
Nope, just reverse order of removal. You can start at either the wheel or transmission side but you will need to either rotate the cv flange or wheel to align the bolts. No Loctite, just the serrated washers and torque to 33 foot lbs. nate
8mm triple square. Make sure the bolt head is clean and tap it in as far as it goes. They might be old and stripped out a bit. That makes it pretty hard and you might need to get a larger size torx and pound it in with a hammer and replace the bolts with new ones. nate
Dumb question: Do you need to put the van on jack stands to do this? Or can you just undo these bolts while it is sitting on the ground (for all 4 axles)?
No jack stands needed. Just make sure the E-brake is on and maybe chock the wheels if your E-brake is suspect. Then remove the 12 bolts per axle and rebuild! Nate
Its 2024 and my Q is were to buy them? Im new on the brick world 😅, this maintenance and the manual oil replacement for me is a MUST!! if someone can help me out direct me so i can be successful on this.🤙🏻
The link to buy the boots and grease is in the description of the video. We buy most parts from FCP Euro for their lifetime warranty on all parts they sell. nate
How come you left out the hardest part of the job? I did this job to one axle on my van and getting the wheel side 1st bolt in on re install was a major pain, had a friend hold the axle while I struggle for 10 minutes to get the bolt in, boot in the way dark and hard to see bolt. If you have any tips for getting the wheel cv bolts on I would appreciate it. Also you left out to recheck if bolts are tight after driving 50 -100 miles. Thanx I really enjoy your videos , slowly rebuilding my 37 yr old Van, 85 Westy weekender from Cali now living in Utah
Getting bolts in is easy for proper grease monkeys, which I'm not... I recall doing the top bolt on a 350 turbo trans by myself was quite a challenge (w/ out a trans jack). I would image torque spec is fairly important on these bolts too?
Hey Paul I guess I have never had an issue with that and install is the reverse of removal. I just take the extension on the triple square and insert it in the top bolt of the axle. Then put the axle in the trailing arm and use the extension to move the bolt around until it lines up with the top hole. Then move the axle around until all bolts are in. I torqued all bolts to factory specs based on the Bentley. Good luck with your rebuild of your van! nate
Paul I'm going to guess that it was because of the CV-angle during the time you were trying to get the bolt in. If the van is on ramps, with the suspension partially compressed, the CV angle is not as much. But if you have it jacked up, with the suspension hanging at max droop, it can be real hard to get that first bolt in because the CV won't just lay flat onto its flange.
You should really use CV joint specific grease like the OEM's use. Also, overpacking the joint/boot will only cause it to leak out when the joint gets hot. The boot is not a reservoir for grease, it is only there to protect the joint from the elements. nate
Hey Nate, how did the boots hold up? You have one full season of driving with them? how many miles have you put on them so far? I have to do mine soon.
We have had them on almost a year and put 12k miles on them. So far so good. With our lift, it does cause the bellows to rub a bit on each other and I do expect them to eventually wear out there but we will see. Nate
I wonder if at ruclips.net/video/Y3zh4purGR4/видео.html you mean to say opposite. When you finger points to something and you say "wide" from viewer's point of view it looks to be "narrow". From your side it is wide like you say. Just to clarify the confusion for someone newbie like me.
Good to hear! Is your van lifted at all? Our bellows on the boots rub just slightly because of our lift. That is where I think ours may fail but so far they are holding up great. nate
I don't know the size of puller but I believe it is a tie rod puller that I have had in my tool box for years. I just needs to fit over the cage so it does not bind. I won't be near my garage for a bit or I would measure it for you. thx nate
Clearest and right to the point instructional video.
Time to stop watching video and get dirty.
Thanks! Go get it done!
Nate
Clocking the CV Joints starts about 13:00. Thanks for taking the time to make the video! #straightaxledubs
Thanks for watching!
nate
I've been following your tutorials for the CV joint replacement and it's been a total game changer. Your step by steps are second to none. Thank you. In addition I used your video to change out my gear oil as well. Can I tell you, the car shifts like a new car. One thousand percent different. Next will be the clutch. Thank you again.
Thank you Chris! So glad we can help you work on your Vanagon. Keep it up!!
Nate
Thanks for this. I ordered new CV Joints w/ Axles, one fell apart in the box. Now it's Packed & ready to install. Thank You!
Awesome. We have had no issues with our Tiguan boots from FCP Euro and there is a lifetime warranty if we do.
Nate
I just upgraded, there’s a set from Porsche that when you buy double of them , fits the both sides, front and rear for the Syncro Vanagon. Super thick, awesome replacement!
Awesome tutorial. The best camera work and instructions that I have seen. Thanks!
Thanks!
Nate
Thank you for making this video. I appreciate your attention to detail and straight to the point approach.
Thanks for watching!
Nate
Just wanted to double check im clocking correctly and this confirmed everything cheers dude.
Glad we could help!
nate
Just used this video to rebuild my CV joints. Thanks Nate. You are owed a fair amount of beer for this. Also just saw your Baja video. My family and I have been spending the winters down there for the last five years. Mulege is amazing. Hope to see you down there sometime.
Glad we could help! Mulege is amazing isn’t it?
Nate
@@ThatBaldwinLife yeah man Mulege is great. We spend some time there every year. Safe travels!
Good job on the tutorial. Glad you mentioned the clocking as most folks are not aware of that. I replaced my CV's with the Porsche 944 CV's as they have more articulation which i needed when I upgraded to the GoWesty 1.5" lift springs.
944's are on my list but I can't justify them until one or more of my Vanagon CV's need replacing. If these Tiguan boots fail I might have to look for other options and then just put in 944's at the same time.
nate
After installing Gowesty 1.5'' springs my CV joint' s made noise when accelerating. Clocking was not correct either. Now go and install 944. It is very important that you install the old drive shaft in de same direction of rotating.
small world, bud. I was just chatting with you on Samba about highway 96/bald hills etc. this is a very helpful video. gotta swap CV boots very soon
Glad you enjoyed the video! We are still planning on being around the Bald Hills area soon and am hoping we can get through it with no snow.
nate
Kiwak betul. Senang betul kau pasang. 5 jam aku bertapa dekat bengkel nak pasang menatang ni
thanks
Best video explaining how to reassemble. I have mine off now waiting for new boots. Very helpful. It is a messy job with all that grease.
Glad it was helpful!
Nate
Thank you so much for the explanation of how to reassemble the 6 ball bearings.
My logic was that wide needed to match with wide bearing channels. Assembled it and it wouldn’t articulate as you explained.
Watched your explanation and it went it so easily!!
Thank you. Saved my bacon on this one… 👍
Glad we could help! Gad you got it all together!
Nate
Great video!! I love the way you explain it. I have been maintaining my 81 Westy since i bought it in 1984. I've done many CV joints in the past but your video is a good refresher course. Your procedure is better than mine. I highly recommend it. Thanks!!
Glad you’ve had your Westy so long, that’s awesome. Appreciate the nice feedback too. Take care!
Nate
Great video mate, the most information on cv rebuilds I have come across. Hello from Australia 🇦🇺
Thanks Troy!
great explanation of every thing, i never separate my joints to repack them, i feel that the wear pattern will not be disturbed if i leave them together.i just blow them out with cleaner.
That is true about the wear pattern but I would be more concerned that you are not able to inspect the balls and races properly to check for pitting or excessive wear. But at least you are putting in new grease and keeping them fresh!
nate
Great video.
If I may the reason those bellows are rubbing together might be an easy fix.
Cut off those pinch clamps.
Slide that boot out over those ribs.
Then install a new pinch clamp.
This will elongate the bellows and give you more space between the ribs of the bellows.
Yeah stretching the boot out would keep the ribs from rubbing but I am not sure about adding in additional "stress" into the boot. Where it sits is the natural length of the boot and after 30K miles, the ribs look almost new. If one does fail, I might try that to see if it lasts longer.
Thanks for watching!
nate
Excellent!!! Up until now, the Ron Chandler video for CV Assembly was the most accurate video I've seen. But you covered everything, even beyond the Joint Assembly and included clocking which is often difficult to find. Only one other thing that would be helpful is the torque value for the CV Bolts. I can't count how many other videos that I've seen that have left out important details or have given incorrect CV Assembly instructions. My Hat's off to you. Thanks! I'm saving this video in my video library to share with others.
Thanks, I totally spaced adding in the torque value when making the video. Thanks for the feedback!
Nate
Another great video man. I’m literally about to do this to mine with the 944’s since I did the gowesty lift. Really helpful tutorial!
Glad we can help!
Nate
Nice. Doing this now as part of a full suspension rebuild on my 88.
Awesome! Good luck with the suspension
nate
Smart kid! Looks easy when you do it!
Years of practice…..
Thank You for taking the time to do this!
Glad to do it!
nate
Great tutorial…I’ll be redoing mine in a couple months.
Glad we could help!
Nate
What a great video. I thought this was complicated, but you explain it so well, it feels doable, even without a garage! PS - you were going to put the link in for the boots..
Thanks Roland. It isn't all that complicated, just a bit time consuming and messy. There is a link the the VW boots from FCP Euro in the description.
nate
Thanks a lot, really appreciate you taking the time to make this! :)
Glad it was helpful!
Nate
This was exactly the video I was looking for thank you!
👍🏻👍🏻 Glad it helped!
Nate
A really helpful video, thanks very much for taking the trouble
No problem!
Nate
Was wondering how I had oil/grease on my airbox. Remembered this video, and bam. Sure enough I had a ripped boot.
Our VW Tiguan boots have held up very well. Seems they have gone up in price a bit though from FCP Euro but they do have a lifetime warranty!
nate
Great job, thank you for sharing.
Thanks
Nate
Really great video. Thanks
Glad you liked it!
Natr
Good breakdown, good techniques! I hoped you'd cover things like putting both circlips in/each side of the bearings, how much extra grease you put in the cups on the axle, or drive output flange before installing.. tips on bolts, washers, keeping it all tight, any ideas like if you need to retorque after x miles..
Those axles look sharp!
I have never seen circlips on the back side of a Vanagon joint or even the use of the domed washer. These only use the circlip that was shown being taken off in the video. This video was centered on rebuilding the CV's and not a full install video on CV joints.
Thanks
nate
Great video. I’m working on this now and you have some great tips
Glad it was helpful!
nate
Excellent video - you make great content! Keep it up!
Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching!
nate
great demo!
Thanks!
Very clear instruction. How have those boots faired since installation?
They are still like new. Super happy with them
Nate
EXCELLENT!!!!!!!!
Thanks!
Nate
Thanks for this info
For sure!
Excellent explanation well done
Thanks glad you enjoyed it!
nate
Awesome tutorial. Thanks
You're welcome Thomas
Nate
Hi thanks for this info.
I have a new set of CVs with the 3 rings + 1 ring from GW, I sent them an email asking and they said "The three rings should be installed outward on the axle shaft."
Interesting, I have not heard that before and since you bought them from GW, I would definitely do that then. I may give them a call and ask why they recommend doing that. Appreciate you dropping that in the comments for us to all learn a bit more.
Thanks!
nate
@@ThatBaldwinLife heres the email:
"The three rings should be installed outward on the axle shaft. In other words, the rings are toward the outer edge of the shaft. Thanks!
Mike Wiehl
Sales Manager"
Very well explained. Very useful.
Glad it was helpful!
nate
What size is that triple square socket that you were referring to
It is an M8 triple square
Great video.
Glad you enjoyed it!
nate
Awesome step by step cv joint video. Thanks a bunch!!!
If one side of the inner race has a step like ring and the other is flat, which side faces the axle?
On the inner race it doesn’t really matter much. I would put it back the way it was. If you don’t know then put the step facing out.
Nate
Very instructive, clear and well presented. I have a 71 bus, would the process be the same?
Yep exactly the same procedure!
Nate
How have the boots held up so far? Just curious. . . . I had to do the similar thing on my '91 GL after the outer bearing started to squeak. The joints fell apart on both sides as I was trying to get the spline out. This video was extremely helpful, especially after I put them back together wrong and they would not bend at all!! Thank you for all your videos!
Yep it’s easy to assemble them wrong and they will be locked up as you found. Glad we could help.
Boots have been holding up great!
Nate
Great video. I have an 87 auto and it started clicking on a 500km drive today. Couple of questions, what causes them to start clicking? Second would this mean I need new cv joints or would a clean and repackaged as you have shown be enough. Thanks again for the well don video
They can click if the grease turns hard or if there isn't enough grease. If you catch it early, a quick clean and grease will be fine. Take them apart (one at a time) and inspect the races and ball bearings for any abnormal wear or pitting. Some slight grooving is the races is fine. Reassemble and put in fresh CV grease.
nate
Great explanation. You produce awesome mechanical content. As a newbie to my 83 Vanagon these details are missing from the Bentley.
Thanks for watching and glad we could help!
nate
Outstanding video.
Thank you very much!
Nate
ARP makes some pretty sweet HD male
12pt CV bolts but they don't work on front syncro inner joints .Not enough room for the socket. I never use allen heads .
Good to know! Those would probably not be a prone to the heads getting gunked up and hard to remove. Thanks for the tip
Nate
Nice job.
Thanks!
Nate
Amazing video, thanks. one of my Cv joints have been starting to make a clack sound when under alot of loss on 1st and 2nd gear, and i was thinking maybe time to put some new grease inside them.
Yep, preventative maintenance is always best!
Nate
Awesome video, thank you. Nate, do you always do this job with the van on the floor, no stands or ramps? Is that the standard practice?
Yes on the floor. Our van is tall enough that we can fit under it easily. If you need more room, ramps are good but if you use jack stands, make sure they are under the trailing arm and not the body as it will put your CV joint angle to high for easy install.
Great video and very in-depth! I was wondering on the newer joints like on my 2006 Jetta TDI, where the outer race is equally spaced and there is no wider or narrower part, should you still clock it so lets say one side has the ball on the top and the other side has the "flat" portion on the top, in other words so the balls on one side are offset from the balls of the opposite side?
I am not familiar with the Jetta joints but since your CV angles are so low, I am not sure it will matter much. The clocking is really beneficial when you have more severe joint angles and allows for less binding during rotation.
nate
WOW Nate you are just so mindful with your work and advice! Thank you!
Wondering what your height is on the rear of your van from center of wheel hub to lip of fender? Also if you’ve considered doing the 930 axle upgrade? I’m contemplating this now and working with a mechanic to actually do the work.
We are around 17.5” in the rear with the old GoWesty 1.5” lift springs. Regarding the 930 joints, our WBX doesn’t put out enough power to cause any issues with the stock style joints. We did put in the higher angle 944 joints when we got back from Canada though. The 930 joints are great for high HP or torque engines and vans that are lifted more than ours. Chris at T3 Technique has new joints out that are like 930’s but don’t require new flanges.
Nate
Ah yes, the 944 CV joints are what I’ve been looking at, not the 930s (was confused). I too have a WBX. Rear heights are 16 3/4” LR and 16 7/8” RR but going to shim LR 1/2” and RR 1/4”. Working with existing GoWesty non lifting springs. Will redo TA bushings, wheel bearings, CVs and adding Radflow shocks. Is it worth it to go up to 944 CVs or stick with German stock ones (GoWesty deluxe bundle) in your opinion? I do some off roading but am very careful.
Gosh at this point I feel like I owe you a consulting fee 😉. Thank you 🙏
At that ride height and mild off roading, the stock style joints will be more than fine. They are actually a bit stronger than the 944 joints as the increased articulation for the 944's come by having smaller balls in the cages than the stock ones. If you don't find yourself binding the stock joints, I would stick with a high quality German joint. The Burley Radflo shocks are awesome and are on our list for an upgrade in the future.
Also use a high quality CV joint grease like I show in the video. Do not use the Redline CV-2 grease that GW and others tout.
Sounds like your van's gonna be dialed!
nate
Thank you so much Nate.
@@ThatBaldwinLife Hi Nate. Curious as to the reason(s) for recommending against the Redline product.
Fantastic! Love what you guys are doing. Do you have any feedback on how the boots are holding up after one year? Rock on!
Thanks! So far the boots are holding up fine. Due to our lift, the bellows do rub together so I would expect them to eventually fail there but we will see. We bought them from FCP Euro just for their lifetime warranty on all parts so if they do fail, we send them back and get a new set.
Nate
@@ThatBaldwinLife Thank you. Considering the shaft, the joint, and the boot all rotate at exactly the same time I would claim there will be no abnormal wear where the pleats come together. Again, great stuff from your channel.
Good point, let's hope you're right! :)
nate
@@ThatBaldwinLife, would you recommend a different boot in retrospect?
Nope, they have held up great so far. Better than any other boots we have used in the past.
nate
Great video learned heaps. Now I know what clocking is. You didn't rebuild the CV, though just new boots and grease. My cv clicks and is very noisy. Would this procedure cure that? Is this all that goes wrong with these CV because I would like to keep the OEM CVs. Cheers
That is how you rebuild a CV joint. There are no spare parts you can put in the joint nor would you want to mix old and new parts. Your options are to rebuild like we did or buy a new one. Depending on what is wrong with your CV joint, fresh grease may fix it. If your old grease is dry and caked on, it will click.
Nate
@@ThatBaldwinLife Thanks mate. It is old and caked on. But after cleaning it up about 30min ago there are score mark on the inner race. I think at some point the cv has been exposed to grit etc. So new one. Your vid has been a tremendous help so thank you again.
at min 7:22: is it necessarry to have the bearing cage still on, when you use the puller or can you just take the cage of by hand before?
Not always. Sometimes the cage is hard to get off of the inner race while it is still on the axle. That was the case here and I wanted to show you can use the puller while the cage was on.
Thanks!
Nate
Also could you send a link to which puller you were using here? Thanks!
Great vid though! I’ll definitely be using it here shortly!
I wish I knew but I have had this puller for a very long time. I believe it is a tie rod puller.
nate
@@ThatBaldwinLife awesome! Thanks! I assume as long as it’s wide enough to keep the cage free it’s good to go.
Also is the size for the bolts a M8 triple square?
Yes it is an 8mm triple square.
nate
How have the OEM Tiguan boots been holding up?
So far with a few thousand miles they have held up fine. A little rubbing in the bellows since my CV angles are a bit higher but so far so good!
nate
Hello Nate, please I have a question for you: has the serrated washers a precise order to mount? If yes, exist a sort of mark to mount this washers in correct way? Thank you for your videos.
No the serrated washers can be installed either direction but are very important to keep the bolts from backing out
Nate
awesome video!! Follow-up question, how did the new boots hold up?
Thanks! The boots have been holding up perfect for thousands of miles and lots of dirt, rocks, and mud!
nate
Hey Nate, thanks again. I’m wondering how these are holding up.
Boots are holding up great, perfect shape so far.
Nate
@@ThatBaldwinLife well the videos over two years old so I assume that’s pretty great performance. How long are they typically supposed to last? Also, would I need to order four of the kits or two of the kits?
Where and what kind is the puller you used to get the hub of the shaft. The one i got on loan is not wide enough to clear the cage.
Hey Frank
We have had that puller for years and I don’t remember where we got it. I believe it is a ball joint or tie rod puller maybe?
Nate
@@ThatBaldwinLife Ok, thanks anyway. Will keep looking, most seem to narrow to fit around cage.
Hi Frank. I'm a bit late to respond but I beleive the puller Nate used is called a Pitman Arm puller. You need the opening to be at least 30mm+. I'm also about to buy one myself for the same reason & same job. Hope this helps.
Great video Nate, would you do this after so many miles or just if you have a torn boot, thanks
Hi John, that is a tough one because I have not had a CV boot last long enough to make that call. I hope these VW boots can last. If the boots hold up you can go a very long time without needing to open them up. I hope I don't have to look at these for 75K more miles.
nate
He didn't show how to tighten those clamps on the small end of the boots. Good video though. I had no idea about the "lining up" aspects of these things.
Tightening the clamps is pretty straightforward. If you can rebuild and clock the CV's you should be able to tighten the clamp.
nate
I ordered a BRAND NEW GKN Lobro axle with CV joints attached from Bus Depot and it came with the 3 outer rings on the CV joint facing the axle/tranny. You mentioned that is the wrong way to have it facing. Why? Should I be concerned? Also it appeared the outer race did not have a chamfer facing the axle/tranny... its a flat edge. Again, should I be concerned? Funny, because this unit appears to be brand new from the factory.
Not uncommon. It would probably be just fine to run it the way it is, especially if you are stock height. But, if you want a lesson in CV rebuilding, you can take it apart and see how it was put together. The outer race with the three rings is not as important as I have seen them run both ways. I just try and be consistent. The inner cage should have the chamfer facing the axle.
If you decide to take it apart, be aware it is a new joint and will be tight. A bit harder to install all of the balls in the cage.
nate
Hey, where could I find that puller tool at 7:25?
It is a tie rod puller and you can get them at most tool shops or auto parts places.
Nate
How are these boots holding up?
So far so good they look brand new still (minus the dirt 😁)
Nate
Thank you! Just completed this project and my clicking from the rear went away.
Glad it helped!
nate
Previous owner had those bolts torqued to like 100 foot pounds. Had to use a pipe on the breaker bar. And, no tensioner washers nor serrated washers either. Anyone know when you put the replacement axle in (I bought a whole, new axle.) how closely it should fit the space ? Right now, it seems if I get the wheel side in, I am going to be about 1/2 inch too short ! The camping trip is in a week !!!
First make sure it is the same length as the old axle. Manual transmission? They will be the same length. On an auto they are different lengths. If it appears to be the same length, it may just be the new boots that are pulling the joint back a bit. You can stretch the joint out a bit. But first make sure it is the same as the old one!
Nate
Thanks for the video that was very informative. One question what torque do you use on those bolts? Any specific tightening pattetrn? Do you use any lock tite?
Thanks.
Torque to 33 ft/lbs. No special sequence and no thread locker. That’s what the serrated washers are for.
Nate
Hello!! Any tips on reinstalling the CV joints on to the van?
I assume you have to bolt up the wheel side first instead of the transmission side, correct?
You do not use any loctight? just the special washers, correct?
Nope, just reverse order of removal. You can start at either the wheel or transmission side but you will need to either rotate the cv flange or wheel to align the bolts. No Loctite, just the serrated washers and torque to 33 foot lbs.
nate
Can you share a link to that puller?
It is a tie rod puller that I have had for 20 years. Harbor Freight has them
What size triple square is it all mine are slipping
8mm triple square. Make sure the bolt head is clean and tap it in as far as it goes. They might be old and stripped out a bit. That makes it pretty hard and you might need to get a larger size torx and pound it in with a hammer and replace the bolts with new ones.
nate
Soooooooooooooo easy without a skid plate!
I am sure it makes it a bit easier!
nate
Another quick question, sorry if I missed it mentioned.
Is your serrated triple square bit an 8 mm?
Yep!
Dumb question: Do you need to put the van on jack stands to do this? Or can you just undo these bolts while it is sitting on the ground (for all 4 axles)?
No jack stands needed. Just make sure the E-brake is on and maybe chock the wheels if your E-brake is suspect. Then remove the 12 bolts per axle and rebuild!
Nate
What is the size of the triple square bit? I don't think you mentioned it in the video.
8mm triple square
Nate
@@ThatBaldwinLife Thank you
@@ThatBaldwinLife Also what type of paint do you recommend tor the shaft?
I just used regular Rustoleum spray paint.
Nate
Its 2024 and my Q is were to buy them? Im new on the brick world 😅, this maintenance and the manual oil replacement for me is a MUST!! if someone can help me out direct me so i can be successful on this.🤙🏻
The link to buy the boots and grease is in the description of the video. We buy most parts from FCP Euro for their lifetime warranty on all parts they sell.
nate
Hey Nate. How are those boots holding up?
So far, perfect. Longest lasting boots I have put on the van so far.
nate
How come you left out the hardest part of the job? I did this job to one axle on my van and getting the wheel side 1st bolt in on re install was a major pain, had a friend hold the axle while I struggle for 10 minutes to get the bolt in, boot in the way dark and hard to see bolt. If you have any tips for getting the wheel cv bolts on I would appreciate it. Also you left out to recheck if bolts are tight after driving 50 -100 miles. Thanx I really enjoy your videos , slowly rebuilding my 37 yr old Van, 85 Westy weekender from Cali now living in Utah
Getting bolts in is easy for proper grease monkeys, which I'm not... I recall doing the top bolt on a 350 turbo trans by myself was quite a challenge (w/ out a trans jack). I would image torque spec is fairly important on these bolts too?
Hey Paul I guess I have never had an issue with that and install is the reverse of removal. I just take the extension on the triple square and insert it in the top bolt of the axle. Then put the axle in the trailing arm and use the extension to move the bolt around until it lines up with the top hole. Then move the axle around until all bolts are in. I torqued all bolts to factory specs based on the Bentley.
Good luck with your rebuild of your van!
nate
Paul I'm going to guess that it was because of the CV-angle during the time you were trying to get the bolt in. If the van is on ramps, with the suspension partially compressed, the CV angle is not as much. But if you have it jacked up, with the suspension hanging at max droop, it can be real hard to get that first bolt in because the CV won't just lay flat onto its flange.
Great advice. My van was not jacked up at all and the first bolts on the wheel side can be tougher for sure.
nate
i've done this 2-3 times on my bus and it wasn't a problem at all as far as I remember. And I'm no mechanic.
You need to use a typical grease gun tube of grease for each pair. That's not enough.
You should really use CV joint specific grease like the OEM's use. Also, overpacking the joint/boot will only cause it to leak out when the joint gets hot. The boot is not a reservoir for grease, it is only there to protect the joint from the elements.
nate
I'm speaking about the amount, not the type.
Do these CV boots work on automatic transmission 85 vanagon gl
Yep, same cv joints and boots, just the auto’s use two different shaft lengths so keep track of which side the axle shaft came from.
Nate
@@ThatBaldwinLife Dankeschön 🙏
Hey Nate, how did the boots hold up? You have one full season of driving with them? how many miles have you put on them so far? I have to do mine soon.
We have had them on almost a year and put 12k miles on them. So far so good. With our lift, it does cause the bellows to rub a bit on each other and I do expect them to eventually wear out there but we will see.
Nate
Did you reuse the same clip or got a new one.
Yea you can reuse the clip as long as you do not deform it while removing it. When you purchase new joints, they come with new clips.
Nate
@@ThatBaldwinLife Thanks!!👍
I wonder if at ruclips.net/video/Y3zh4purGR4/видео.html you mean to say opposite. When you finger points to something and you say "wide" from viewer's point of view it looks to be "narrow". From your side it is wide like you say. Just to clarify the confusion for someone newbie like me.
The assembly instructions should be all you need to do the procedure correctly.
Thanks
Nate
Excellent info . Had no idea about the clocking .
Glad it was helpful!
Nate
I’ve had Tiguan boots on for 20k and they’re holding up. @myescapepod
Good to hear! Is your van lifted at all? Our bellows on the boots rub just slightly because of our lift. That is where I think ours may fail but so far they are holding up great.
nate
Awesome tutorial! thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
nate
Great video
Thanks!
What is the size of the puller you used to remove the Cv from the drive shaft
I don't know the size of puller but I believe it is a tie rod puller that I have had in my tool box for years. I just needs to fit over the cage so it does not bind. I won't be near my garage for a bit or I would measure it for you.
thx
nate