Nice.... Creativity creates Beauty.... I'd say start putting this in a ready to go kit... Once the world lays eyes on this... Thanks for sharing with such details..
Thanks! I have been asked a few times about building/selling some of the things I 've created. While I think there are possibilities there, I'm not sure I really have the time (or desire) to deal with shipping, logistics, and the physical builds themselves. It would definitely take away from what time I have to create new projects, videos, blog posts etc. My goal really isn't making a ton of money... just enough to maybe cover my expenses in sharing new projects. My primary goal is to give back to the DIY community that I learned from, promote local home automation, and to share ideas that other might adapt for their own needs. If someone really is interested in "pre-built" options, I try to direct them somewhere that they might find something similar. For example, if you want a pre-built WLED controller, Quindor and DrZZs sell pre-built controllers: quinled.info/pre-assembled-quinled-dig-uno/ (just tell them Resinchem Tech sent you!) But thanks so much for the thought and watching!
@@ResinChemTech I understand but there are many people that don’t want to DIY it but love your idea. You could easily find a company that will take your idea and market it for you giving you some income for more of your ideas.
Absolutely... and a good suggestion for anyone that doesn't want even the small screw holes. I tried a small screw in an inconspicuous location and felt it was acceptable in my case. And I did like the added ability to easily remove a section of the rail from the clips in the event that I needed to make a repair (fortunately hasn't happened yet). But you could absolutely use command strips or even other double-sided tape as long is it wouldn't mar the finish upon removal. Thanks for watching and passing on the suggestion!
And it doesn't have to be that 'chasing lights' effect either. The lights could just gently fade on to a solid color to provide lighting and then fade back off again. Since WLED has literally hundreds of different effects (and colors), all sorts of uses are possible. I know a number of other viewers have reached out and they installed this same system along the baseboards in a long hallway to provide dimmed night lighting for those late night trips to the bathroom or kitchen! Thanks for watching and taking time to post a comment!
omg i just imagined this thing detecting motion in the middle of the night when no one seems to be there, slowly walking down ..... got goosebumps now and dont want this anymore xD
Sir you are my hero. I’ve been wanting to do something like this for years. Thanks for the video I liked and subscribed. Fellow Indy neighbor here also.
Thanks! Just curious... are you a home automation/Home Assistant user? Just before the pandemic hit, I was looking for other Home Assistant/automation users in the Indy/central IN area to judge interest in some sort of users group around Home Assistant and/or automation. I had to put that on pause... so I went out and created a blog and RUclips channel instead! But the idea has hung around in my head... if we ever get back to "normal" some day! Let me know if you decide to tackle this project (or any others) and run into any questions. Thanks again for the kind words... and the sub!
@@ResinChemTech no sir I’m neither home automation or assistant user. I’m a Hvac tech but I do a lot of diy to my home and always wanted to do this to my stairs but never really seen anything I like until your channel popped up.
Just as an FYI... I do have another video, if you haven't seen it, with basically the same setup but doesn't require Home Assistant, automation or any other hub: ruclips.net/video/b4s_VEtVWY4/видео.html Of course, it doesn't have all the effects and options that the "full" version has, but it is standalone and does offer a way to recreate the stair lighting system without the whole Home Assistant/automation code portion. I did this version by request for folks that don't have Home Assistant or any sort of home automation hub.
No, sorry I don't. To be honest, since everyone's stairs would be different and the location of the AC power would be different, any sort of kit really wouldn't save you much effort over creating the DIY version I showed in the video except for maybe building the controller. You can purchase a prebuilt controller from Quindor on his site if you don't want to build your own: quinled.info/pre-assembled-quinled-dig-uno/. Plus the size of the aluminum rails would make both packaging and shipping costs prohibitive. But thanks for watching and asking!
That is an interesting idea, and it could be adapted from the stairs fairly easily. Of course, everything would have to be weatherproofed, but I could even see combining it with a distance sensor (like I did in my parking assistant vid) and have the lights indicate when the car is parked in the desired position. Thanks for the idea... might be worth investigating at some point.
Thanks! While it may seem a bit 'over the top', they actually are nice when we turn the main lights off to watch TV, as they provide plenty of light to go up and down the stairs without turning on the overhead lights. They aren't for everybody... but we like them! Thanks for watching... and taking the time to leave a comment.
Very interesting project. I am curious, though. You said that the lights turn on when one sensor is triggered, and off once the other is triggered. How does the system handle situations where someone might come up and go down at the same time? Is there a “minimum” amount of time needed between sensors trips?
There is an inherent "cool-down" time of about 2 seconds on the motion detectors that I used. I also use input_booleans in Home Assistant to know which sensor triggered and can code around "most" situations. But it is possible that multiple people using the steps at the same time can occasionally lead to either the lights shutting off prematurely, or even running in the wrong direction for the last person to enter the stairs. Doesn't happen often (there are only two of us and we are rarely both on the stairs at the same time). There is also a 'failsafe' that automatically shuts the lights off after 15 seconds in the event that a starting motion was detected, but the ending motion never occurs. All this is handled via the Home Assistant automation and really isn't part of the controller or hardware.
Great! Let me know how it goes. If you are going to use my YAML, just assure you grab the right version of the Gist file as recent changes in HA and WLED broke the older version. If you are comfortable with YAML, I'm sure you'll have no problems but it seems that this is where most folks have reached out to me with issues... integrating my YAML automations into their particular HA instance. Don't hesitate to reach out if you do run into any questions or problems... and good luck with your project!
@@ResinChemTech Will do! I've ordered some stuff to start the work. Primarily the channel, but also the PIR sensors and some D1s (I think I'm also nearly out of D1s - I've mostly been using ESP32 and ESP32 D1 Mini's of late, but the ESP8266s are plenty for this project). I have an extra LED strip so I'll start with one side to verify I like the channel I've chosen. I imagine I'll just create my own HA automations so they make the most sense to me - I have at least 15 or 20 that I've written so far for lots of little things around the house that are motion or time or location dependent. I've got a few ESPHome devices already and I've even written WLED plugins, so I should be good with those. I just hadn't thought about putting the strips down the side (duh!) or lighting two strips in parallel from one data line - that works well? Some of my WLED projects... I made this for our 25th anniversary (3d printed body, designed and printed by me, uses 3mm fiber optics, runs WLED) ruclips.net/video/hsc0FMRmU38/видео.html . I made this lamp for my grandson's birthday, the video shows off the plugins I made for WLED to provide on-board UI ruclips.net/video/tITQY80rIOA/видео.html .
Sounds like you have plenty of experience with HA and WLED, so I'm sure you'll figure that part out. Splitting the data signal worked out just fine and hasn't caused me any issues. I honestly didn't know at the very start if that would work, but I didn't want two separate controllers (knowing they'd never actually truly stay in-sync.. even if I used the WLED syncing feature). But with the single signal line.. and with the same number of pixels on both sides, they are perfectly in sync for all effects. I did have to experiment with various motion detectors. I originally tried a couple of Zigbee versions (thinking that wireless would save me from running the extra USB cable), but everything else I tried had too long of a cool down period... up to 45 seconds in some case. The ones I ended up selecting had the shortest cooldown I could find... around 5 seconds.... but it did mean I had to run USB power to the one at the top. But as I showed in the video, using the flat cable pretty much makes it hidden. Again, good luck and drop me a line when you get it done!
@@ResinChemTech Project completed yesterday. ruclips.net/video/DaU0u5YZguc/видео.html for a video. The parts I used for the project (along with links) are all in my video description. Thanks for the inspiration to finally install stair lights (I'd been considering it for a year). The missus loves them.
This is amazing! I ordered absolutely everything for the project. My only question is that I have a landing w/ 90 degree turn at the bottom of my steps so 1 side would need more LEDs then the other. Still a way to program that to work? Could you point me in the right direction for programming help?
Hi Tim. I responded to your post over in the blog, so please check there. But in short, yes, this will work with different number of pixels on each side... you just need to configure WLED with the max pixels on the "long" side of the stairs. Again, I tried to provide a little better explanation over in my blog response. Good luck with your project!
Thanks! I try to do projects that are not impossible to recreate or require a lot of specialized equipment... and that can be removed without having to do major restoration work! As I mention in a couple of videos, we will likely sell our house in a few years and most of this smart home tech will have to come back out unless the new owners want to keep some/all of it. I like some of the other videos with the lights across the treads, but they are much more complicated and require construction to hide wires, etc. Thanks for watching and taking time to comment!
You are amazing ,a very nice job indeed , I’ve nearly finished this project on my stairs too,I was wondering if It’s possible to operate this from a 5inch screen instead of my phone, if so could someone please help,many thanks Paul.
Wow, thanks! When you say 'operate this' are you talking about WLED... or Home Assistant, or what? Either way, both WLED and Home Assistant have mobile apps that could be installed on a small tablet (Android and/or iOS). Of course, they both also work in a browser if your display has that. So, I'm happy to try to help, but I guess I need to know what it is that you'd like to control (e.g. WLED effects?) and what type of 5" screen you are talking about... and what are its capabilities/operating system?
Thank you for your reply and time,any suggestions on which screen to get?I will be installing home assistance ,I’m building your controller but got 12V strip lights, dose this alter the build of this controller please,many thanks for your help and time, many thanks Paul from the UK.
Just about any tablet will work as long as it has a web browser. I am using a couple of older Samsung tablets in different places in the house, but to be honest, Home Assistant handles most automations (like the stair lights) without any interaction, and many of the other things we interact using voice control with Google Home via Home Assistant. As far as the 12V LED strips, you will obviously need to step that voltage down to 5V for the controller via a buck converter or other means (the D1 Mini will go "poof" if you try to feed it 12V). If you use separate power sources for the LEDs and the controller, then you must have a common ground between the controller and the LED strip or things won't function normally. Otherwise, as long as you feed 5V to the controller, the build is the same. Hope that helps! Good luck with the project (and Home Assistant... I love what it can do!). Feel free to reach out again if you run into additional questions or problems.
Well... as the title of the video states, my goal was to do this "without staircase modification". I explain the reason why in one of my recent videos ( ruclips.net/video/rKAZxDtShCo/видео.html ). Naturally, the wires could be much better hidden if you are willing to drill into the staircase, pull carpet or cut into drywall. My goal was to install this system without making any changes... and so that the system could be removed in just a few minutes and you'd never know it was there. But I fully understand the WAF! Luckily for me, mine is pretty lenient when it comes to the basement "man cave". Now, if I wanted to install this on our main stair case to the second floor... that would be a totally different situation (and don't think I haven't considered it... but that would have a very, very low WAF!)
Hi, thanks for your great video. I really would love to build your project but unfortunately due to my lack of knowledge in this field its difficult for me to follow your steps as in your video the built part was unfortunately missing.
I clicked on like and subscribe the moment I realised you are making all the needed information available for free! Thank you!!! 👍 PS: I am not planning to make use of any of the information available 😇🤪
Thanks! You never know... and you might be surprised! I never thought I'd be as involved in smart home tech and automation like I am now. But then you see something on RUclips and think "I could really use something like that to solve a problem I have in my house". One thing leads to another and before you know it, you have over 100 "smart" devices installed! But even if you don't go down that route, I appreciate the time you took to watch and comment! Thanks again!
Great video. I am going to take your ideas and implement in my house. In my case, I may be willing to make minor modifications to existing stairs if necessary to conceal the wiring even more fully. Thanks
Thanks! There are definitely things I would have done differently if I would have considered modifications to the stairs. There are some other videos out there of some really excellent stair lighting builds... even ones with lights horizontally across each tread. But as I've mentioned in a few other videos, we will likely be selling our home in the next 3-5 years and a lot of this smart home tech won't work for the next buyers (especially those that rely on Home Assistant, like this one), so most of my project installs will need to be removed. If this was our 'forever' home or if we were going to stay here in retirement, then I would have been much more likely to make modifications to hide the wiring a bit better. I think my goal was a project that someone could do in a weekend... was easily removable if the better half didn't like it.. and it wasnt' going to leave any signs of it ever being there once was removed. Thanks again for watching and taking time to comment.
I hear ya... and I don't disagree! But my goal with all my smart home tech is to avoid making major modifications since we will likely sell in a few years and all the tech has to come back out. I don't want to be faced with making major repairs when things are removed. Completely hiding the wiring would have required drilling or routing the stringers, drilling through drywall, etc. I agree it would have made a more attractive install... but at the expense of making alterations to the stairs themselves. Thanks for your feedback!
@@ResinChemTech My view is almost entirely the opposite. I'd probably leave all the tech in for increasing the perceived value of the house. I bought a fixer upper house though from 1948, tore down all exterior walls to add insulation, so I don't mind if I make permanent changes as long as it looks good and adds charm to the house long-term. I can tell you know what you are talking about though, can only assume you are some level of an electrical engineer or just a tech enthusiast. EDIT: Should of read your shirt, clearly says Cyber Security lol. I'm a DevOps engineer personally.
Yep! You can find the complete parts list in my written version of this project, found here: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2021/07/simple-motion-activated-led-stair.html Let me know if you decide to build it... or if you have any questions along the way.
You might take a look at the written version of this project. It has wiring diagrams and shows how all the different components and parts are wired together: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2021/07/simple-motion-activated-led-stair.html If you have any particular questions after taking a look at that, don't hesitate to reach back out and ask.
I actually had another viewer that did install these lights down a long hallway instead of on stairs. Since WLED has hundreds of different effects, you could simply install these along the baseboard and simply have the lights gently fade on a solid color to light the hallway when motion is detected at either end of the hallway. You wouldn't have to use the chase or wipe effect I used here (but you certainly could). The general design is a concept could be used in a lot of different ways, in addition to stairs. In fact, if you are not a Home Assistant user, I did do another version (with not quite as many features and effects) that works with only wifi... no home automation system or hub needed. You might check this out as another alternative: ruclips.net/video/b4s_VEtVWY4/видео.html
Thats actually pretty cool looking.. brightness could be lowered a lil bit though.. I simply use a USB mini PIR sensor and USB LED strips for the living room and bathroom, for the stairs i use a motion light i modified powered by 18650s or a USB power bank to recharge the batteries.
Thanks! I think it looks a little brighter than it actually is because LEDs simply "overwhelm" the camera... but the brightness is controllable via WLED. I'd be interested in your battery-operated versions. Someone else was just asking about that a few comments ago. I tried a short 20-pixel LED strip in a closet, activated by a door sensor powered by a USB power bank (12,500 mAh I think) and could never get more than a couple of days before needing to recharge. Probably due to the constant power draw from the microcontroller, but using an ESP32 with deep sleep took too long to wake up and respond when the door opened. I just haven't had any luck with battery-powered LED projects.... but I'm not saying it can't be done!
@@ResinChemTech GE Wireless Motion-Sensing Moveable LED Light Bar (Walmart) is the style im currently using but any similar style could be modified in the same way. i use a TP4056 module, i have it outside of the unit as how it looks doesnt bother me, the 18650s (2) sit nicely on the back of it. When the battery voltage gets low the Light itself blinks a red LED as an indicator, but instead of waiting for it to blink i just click the power bank every now and then to charge it back up. I can go a month or so before it naturally needs to be recharged, if you have it in a closet then it should last even longer, assuming you use decent 18650s with low self discharge, i use the WESTINGHOUSE 2000mAh 18650s that you can find in store, the Hyper Tough batteries also sold in store do the job also, but the WH ones are better. Hope this helps :)
Thank you for the informative and thorough explanation. I would like to do similar outside on my pathway from the street to the house. It is going to be 40ft long, 38 inches wide, stamped concrete with led embedded on the top of the concrete(facing the sky, not the sides) along the length. Also I would like to have motion sensors every 24 inches or so, so when someone steps in the middle of the pathway still to lit. Could you please answer several questions: 1. Can I use it without Home assistant or any other platform/server because this is a foreign language for me? If it is absolutely necessary I would educate myself, but prefer not to. 2. Can I install multiple motion sensors and also are you familiar with any waterproof that can face up since I do not want to install anything on the side and higher than the walkway so I would not trip, able to mow etc Thank you in advance for your help.
There's a lot to cover with something like that... more than I can cover here in the comments, but I'll address a few basic items: With an install that big (and that many LEDs), you'd probably need to use an ESP32 instead of an ESP8266. You would also need a very substantial power supply, along with power injection along the LED strips. Naturally, all of this would have to be waterproof. I do have an LED controller that works with motion detectors and doesn't require Home Assistant (or any other system). You can see a video of that here: ruclips.net/video/b4s_VEtVWY4/видео.html But it currently only supports a maximum of 2 motion detectors, so you'd have to modify the code to work with more than that. Finally, there are commercial outdoor motion detectors, but I don't know of anything like you describe. You'd likely have to build something custom and figure out how to power it and make it waterproof. It sounds like a neat project, but it is also a pretty complicated one to build yourself. I hope I've provided at least a little helpful information to give you some things to consider.
I know its been a while since you made this and i hope you will get this. The system is absolutely amazing and exactly what I invisioned for my basement stairs(a blank canvas). I have been looking at pressure switches as a trigger. I would love your thoughts on this. I dont see any real benefit over yours, other than making the trigger invisible. Negligible to me. Thanks John Carr
Yep.. I still try to respond to questions regardless of how old the video is! You should be able to use just about any sort of binary sensor trigger that you like... and a pressure switch would be just that. Just as long as the sensor has (or can be converted to) an off/on state, you can use it in the automations. Naturally you'd have to tweak the ESPHome code that is installed. ESPHome might treat this like a switch as opposed to a binary sensor. You might check out the ESPHome site ( esphome.io/ ) and see if you can find a listing for the particular pressure sensor/switch you are looking at. But even it if isn't listed, it is often possible to use a generic entity and tweak it for your needs. Let me know how it goes or if you have any additional questions. Oh... and if you do opt to use regular sensors instead of a pressure switch, you might want to check out my updated video on this project if you haven't seen it, where I use time-of-flight sensors instead of PIR sensors... I've found these sensors to be much more reliable and less prone to false triggers than the PIR sensors ( ruclips.net/video/ZRb_wpJo1AM/видео.html ).
I've seen videos on it, but haven't tried one myself (yet). They are extremely interesting, but currently a little hard to come by domestically (Amazon shows 'unavailable') and pretty costly at this point. I'm sure I'll pick one up sometime... if for no other reason than to just play with it. I do have one potential use case (my automated garage lighting), but the system I currently have in place is working fine. But like most new toys, I'll buy it first and THEN find a use case!
You are most welcome! Note that I did a follow up video where I upgrade the motion sensors with a different (and in my opinion better) type of sensor that isn't as susceptible to false detections. You might want to take a peek at that, along with the full written version of this project, before starting you own build. This original video was done quite some time ago, so I have made improvements in the time since this particular video was released. Let me know how your project goes... or if you have any other questions along the way.
Thank you. And while I appreciate the interest, many others have asked a similar question. Unfortunately, I just don't have the time or capacity to build, package, ship and all the other logistics around supplying these (or any of my other projects) for others. I understand that some many not have the desire or skill to complete these projects on their own, but the goal of my channels is to try to show others how they can do it themselves. I hope you can understand my position. Regardless, thanks for taking the time to watch.
@@ResinChemTech First thank you for responding! And yes I do understand I have alot going on myself that why I ask if you can put it together for me 😂😂 but I am going to try so I hope you don't mind if I shoot you a question or 10 lol it my take me some time but I will put one together I will keep you posted .
Thanks for understanding! I am always more than happy to answer questions and to try to help folks out with any of their projects. As I mentioned, my goal for my channel is to help and teach others how to do some of these things... as others helped me when I first started. Please, don't hesitate to reach out and ask me any questions along the way. If you do build it yourself, it will be much more satisfying than buying it from me! Best of luck.
Thanks. An actual cost is a bit hard to come by. First, it depends on what items you might already have on hand. Next, unfortunately, you have to buy some of these parts in 'package' quantities. The aluminum channel for example, sells in a pack of 10 6.6 ft lenghts. The microcontrollers and logic level shifters normally can't be purchased in single quantities. But as a rough estimate, if you had to buy everything, the cost of the parts actually used in the project is probably around $100 - $150... most of that is in the aluminum channel, LED lights and power supply. If it is helpful, I have a full list of the parts I used in my related blog article: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2021/07/simple-motion-activated-led-stair.html Let me know if you have any other questions!
I just want to make sure I'm clear. The flat usb cable is just to power the top board? If so where is the other end plugged into? Or is it cut off and wired into PS?. Another where are the wires joined to work the leds on the other side? You said they needed a sync signal which I understand but just not clear where they are actually joined together. Sorry for all the questions but thanks for responding. Nice u in Indiana I'm in Wisconsin near Milwaukee.
Yes... the flat USB cable is just to power the D1 mini/motion detector at the top of the stairs. It could be wired directly into the power supply, but I needed to use a short extension cord for the PS anyway, so I just used one with USB ports and ran the USB cable to that. For the data signal, it comes out of the controller and I just split that to the two sections of the LED strips. If it helps, you can find a diagram of how I wired mine in my related blog article: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2021/07/simple-motion-activated-led-stair.html (it's near the beginning of article, right after the parts list). Again, this is based on where my AC power was located. For me, the location and connection between the controller, power supply and other 5V components is based on where I can best tap into power and best hide those components and related wiring. For others, it might make sense to run the USB cable back to the PS, cut off the end and wire direct. But for me, it always varies from install to install. Hope that helps, let me know if you have additional questions.
Hi, Good to see your videos step by step. Unfortunately I am not able to find all parts which you mentioned in your forum. Since I dont have much knowledge on Electrical side, can build one more me and ship it. Please let me know.
I'm sorry that you are having some issues sourcing some of the parts. Unfortunately, I just don't have the time to build, package, ship and track the logistics of selling devices to others. But if you are interested in purchasing a pre-built controller for WLED, I always recommend the DigiUno by Quindor. You can find his controllers at: quinled.info/pre-assembled-quinled-dig-uno/
That all depends on your tolerance level for making modifications to things like the stair stringers, drywall, carpet, etc. I think the 'ugliest' part of this install is the wiring that has to run under the first tread lip to the opposite side stringer for the second side lights. It really isn't as noticeable as it appears in the video when standing and with the similarly colored Velcro holding it in place. I "could" have cut the carpet, ran the wiring underneath and then glued the carpet back in place. But that wasn't a modification that I was willing to make as my goal was to be able to remove the entire system without the need to make any repairs. There are a lot of other videos out there on making a stair lighting system similar to this... but with pretty substantial 'construction' or changes to the existing stairs. My goal here was to create something that wouldn't require any of that and could easily be removed.... with the downside of the exposed wiring. But you could definitely make this install 'neater' if you are willing to make some structural changes.
Well, I know that some folks have contacted me and let me know that they have taken this same system and installed it along the baseboards of a long hallway to provide lighting at night when going to the bathroom or kitchen. So, I guess you don't technically need to have stairs to install something like this! Just a thought... thanks for watching and taking time to leave a comment!
Btw you don't need the logic level shift with the ws2812bs, they will accept a digital signal all the way down to 1.7 volts, so 3.3 is more than adequate, if you don't believe me check the datasheet for the ws2812b itself, it'll say the same thing
You may be correct, but my references say: "The datasheet tells us that a logic high input will be detected at a minimum voltage of 0.7 * Vcc. If you’re running the LED at 5V, this means 5 V * 0.7 = 3.5 V will be needed for the WS2812 to detect a ‘1’ on the data line." Here is the data sheet I am referencing (cdn-shop.adafruit.com/datasheets/WS2812B.pdf) and you can see that it also notes a working voltage starting at 3.5V. While you can sometimes get away with 3.3V (or even just a bit lower), there can be signal instability that might cause random issues. Add in the fact that I sometimes place my controller a meter or more away from the first pixel and voltage drop from just the wire resistance itself is enough to cause intermittent problems. In my opinion, it is well worth the $1 cost of the logic level shifter (or even a sacrificial pixel) to boost the signal to 5V. This allows plenty of headspace for any voltage drop due to the wiring run between the controller and LED strip. Nearly all references that I see online (or from others) recommend use of a voltage shifter or sacrificial pixel. But like all DIY projects, there are many possibilities and if you can get a reliable signal without the shifter, then by all means feel free to omit it.
Thanks. Glad you found it interesting. It can be a bit complicated and a lot of folks may not have Home Assistant or another compatible automation system, but I followed this up with a similar system that is a bit easier to configure and works standalone... without the need for Home Assistant or any other sort of hub. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
Apparently the mothership has landed, and it's now operating out of somebody's basement until the beachhead is established. I will now report back to our leader, Zhlok.
I mean I love it, I want it, can you make one for me as a kit , I don't code can't code so I can't make them do the cool things , but I can install and make the wires disappear, I've been looking for this but have no way of getting them, I have a building co and would like to start using this basically everywhere, so please help
Unfortunately I don't have the time or resources to build, ship, charge, etc. for any sort of stair kits. I try to design my videos for the DIY crowd. Note that this particular video shows an installation that requires the end user to have Home Assistant. If you are building for others, there is a very high chance that they may not have (or want to deal with) the Home Assistant automation system. However, I have created a version that works without Home Assistant and doesn't require any other automation system. It is a bit more basic in terms of number of effects and features, but the physical build is nearly identical and it still functions (via motion) in much the same way. You may want to take a look at this video and see if it might be a better fit in your situation: ruclips.net/video/b4s_VEtVWY4/видео.html
Primarily because the light controller is running WLED firmware. This provides over a hundred different effects... and not something I would want to rewrite or code myself. The sensors, on the other hand, are running ESPHome... same deal. Both integrate nicely into Home Assistant... which handles all the automation processes. Obviously, you cannot put two different firmware versions (WLED and ESPHome) on a single controller. I do have a standalone version that uses a single controller ( ruclips.net/video/b4s_VEtVWY4/видео.html ) for both the lights and the sensors, written with Arduino code. However, it does not have anywhere near the features or number of effects of WLED. No way that I wanted to try to recreate my own version of that great firmware. But in a nutshell, that's why more than one controller is used. It also simplifies the wiring that needs to run between the controller and sensors, since the sensors only need power and not an additional data line.
Very good, that's almost exactly how I want to do it. Is it possible to make it work regardless if the Home Assistant is not working/not available? Can i use with WLED FW, 2 motion sensors and possibly a lux sensor? I would like it can work on its own, but it can also be controlled via the WLED app/Home Assistant. Can this be solved? Can you make a video and/or description about this?
Well.. if you are using WLED (instead of the standalone option), then WLED has to be able to handle all of the automations if Home Assistant isn't available. While it might be possible to use a motion sensor and/or a lux sensor with the WLED controller for some basic features like turning on the lights, it doesn't have the automation engine to do the more advanced options... like a timer to turn the lights off after a set time, use two sensors in conjunction, etc. The standalone version builds in this automation engine, but doesn't have all the WLED features. So, it's more or less picking one over the other. You can use WLED, but then need a separate automation platform (like Home Assistant, NodeRed, etc.)... or you can build the automations into custom firmware (standalone), but then you cannot install both this custom firmware and WLED on the same controller. There are a number of custom user modifications available for WLED. There might be something that that you could add as custom mod to WLED that would give you close to what you want. But I haven't tried or tested any of these. You can review the list of user contributions here: github.com/Aircoookie/WLED/tree/main/usermods
Good day to you sir, thank you some much for sharing your knowledge. I have been wanting to do this for a while now and I have all the components, and I'm ready to start assembling it. I'm waiting on a new led strip so that I can add lights to both sides. I am still having a bit of brain block, trying to understand how the two ESPHome D1 minis talk to the WLED controller..
I assume you are referring to the D1 Minis that are used for the motion detection? Home Assistant and Home Assistant automations are how the devices 'talk'. The Home Assistant automation uses the motion from the motion sensors as a trigger to then turn on the LEDs via the LED controller. The latter part of the video covers that and you can find links to the entire Home Assistant automation in the video description. I hope that helps. This particular version does require Home Assistant or a similar home automation platform to work and to allow those components to 'talk' to each other.
@@ResinChemTech thank you for the quick response, I appreciate it. Does this section need to be the same on both of the D1 minis that are running ESPHOME? binary_sensor: - name: "Breakbeam Sensor" == ??? id: breakbeam_sensor platform: template device_class: motion
Are you using the new ToF sensors that I showed in this video ( ruclips.net/video/ZRb_wpJo1AM/видео.html ) as that is the ESPHome code for these types of sensors. If you are using the PIR sensors as shown in _this_ video, then you need to use the ESPHome code from the Github repository that does NOT have _tof in the file name. The Github repo has example ESPHome for both, the ToF sensors (with _tof in the name) and the PIR sensors (without _tof in the name).
Very nice. Do you know of a motion sensor that could be used as a touchless button for something like this? Something where maybe the range is very short, somewhere around 1/2" to trigger it? My idea is to "tap" it with your foot to get it go on.
My first thought is to use an ultrasonic or lidar sensor (like I used in my parking assistant and car detection vid). That way, you'd be measuring distance instead of motion. When something (like your foot) moved in front of the sensor at less than a predetermined distance (say < 2"), that could trigger the lights on/off via Home Assistant. Using this method, someone passing by the sensor at a 'normal' distance would not trigger the lights. I think the challenge here might the the speed of reactivity of the sensor (how quickly it reports a distance change). But it might be worth a shot!
@@ResinChemTech Thanks, yes, that's a direction I was looking at. It might work. I found these just now also and it seems like it might be the answer: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T91JXHW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@ResinChemTech This is interesting too. Looks like what you were talking about and it goes down to 2cm which is the feature I couldn't find in other ultrasonic sensors. I ordered this too and will see what works best. www.amazon.com/dp/B088R3V9X8?psc=1&smid=A2SNA9AH12A511&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp
Excellent video! It’s motivated me to try this. I was wondering is there a way to creat a wireless PIR sensor or even button? I was hoping maybe a battery powered separate D1 mini with PIR could link up to and control another D1 mini which is being used as the main WLED driver but is out of sight.
Thanks! Glad it provided you with some motivation to try it yourself! It is certainly possible to use something wireless for the sensors at the top and bottom of the staircase. I'm not sure that a D1 Mini is the correct choice as it would probably draw too much power and quickly drain a battery (wifi devices are power hungry!). I'd look at maybe something like a Zigbee motion sensor (especially if you already have a Zigbee network). The issue with these, however, is that they generally have long cool down periods (like 30 seconds or more), which could be a challenge in terms of the automation... since the sensor would continue to show motion long after someone has exited the stairs. I believe Aqara has a new motion sensor where you can specify the cooldown, but I haven't tried or tested them. You may also have issues with the wide field of view (FOV) with a PIR sensor like this, depending on your stair configuration. I had this issue at the bottom of my stairs, and just recently released a video where I replaced these PIR sensors with TOF sensors (you can see that vid here: ruclips.net/video/ZRb_wpJo1AM/видео.html ) - but this would also be a wired/D1 Mini solution, although it does work much better than the PIR option. You could always try a battery-operated D1 Mini... something like a LiPo battery would probably be best... but I know that from my original mailbox solution that used a battery-driven ESP32 (that even when into deep sleep when not in use), I couldn't get more than about a month out of the battery. I suspect an D1 Mini that has to constantly be awake and watch for motion would drain even faster than that... possibly within a week. If you find a good wireless solution, please pass it along! I'd love to share it with my viewers and provide that option. Also feel free to reach back out if you have any additional questions. Good luck with your project!
@@ResinChemTech yeah looks like your’re completely right. D1 mini approx 40mA draw which will soon take its toll on a battery. I will still look into other options but I’m not hopeful. I don’t have a zigbee network but assume it’s relatively cheap to set up so could be an option. Yes I had already seen your video on the PIR upgrade and intended to do that. The only thing with that side of it that I need to do now is work out how to get an ambient light sensor in so that it only come on when below a certain lighting level. I get I could use another input (probably have to be analogue) and then have a condition based statement saying “if THIS and MOTION then turn light on”. Did you bother with this yourself or just have them come on in any lighting condition? ****edit***** seen that I would need to create an automation with the trigger as either the upstairs or downstairs motion sensor and then have a condition of lux level below a certain value to achieve only lighting up in the dark. Slowly getting there. Just need to make sure that the D1 mini can cope efficiently with the three sensors.
I don't use any sort of light sensor for the stairs. They come on all the time unless I toggle the input_boolean to disable the automations. I do, however, lower the brightness of the LEDs if it is after 10 pm and the overhead basement lights are off. I did this just fairly recently as I was getting blinded by the bright LED stair lights after watching TV in a dark basement and then heading up to bed. With no windows in the basement, there isn't any 'ambient' light, other than the overhead recessed lighting... which is also automated in Home Assistant... so, I can use the brightness level setting of the overhead lighting to alter the stair lights. As far as a light level sensor, of course you can just use a photoresistor. But in my new garage multisensor, I use a photosensitive light module. This uses a photoresistor as well, but had a digital binary sensor that is 'on' or 'off' based on an adjustable light level. They are only about $2 apiece, but easier to use than a photoresistor, analog level and trying to convert that to lux. You can see that in my video on an updated multisensor ( ruclips.net/video/tVTha44i8SI/видео.html ). The D1 Mini won't have a problem dealing with both a motion sensor and a light level sensor. But you are right that motion would serve as the trigger and light level as a condition in your automation. Let me know if you have additional questions or thought!
Excellent video, thank you!! Instead of stairs, I'd like to do under cabinets and shelving on each side of the vent hood - with say 6 different lines (minimum, and short runs) do you think I'd need more than one esp32? I'd ideally tie everything together in the cabinet of the vent hood... conceptually I can't visualize having a single controller
Well, there would be different ways to approach this depending on how you want everything to work and function. Technically, the ESP32 can support up to 10 different channels or pins. It can get tricky in terms of setting those up and the segments to match. You can read more about how that is done on the WLED offical site here: kno.wled.ge/features/multi-strip/ A different option is to use multiple controllers and sync them together. That is how I approached my kitchen cabinets. I have a row of cabinets on each side of the kitchen. I technically have four controllers... two on each side (one for the top of the cabinets and one for the under side). All four controllers are synced. When any controller is set to a color or effect, then the same color/effect is synced to the other 3 controllers. Of course this does require more wiring and a separate power supply for each side of the kitchen. So there are different ways to approach it... using either a single controller with multiple pins/data outputs on a single ESP32... or multiple controllers that can optionally be synced to act as one. I hope that helps. Good luck with your project. My wife loves the undercabinet lighting for the additional workspace light.. and I love the ability to use colors for special occasions, entertaining, etc.
@ResinChem Tech Thanks for your quick reply and level of detail in your thoughts. The article was helpful in the idea that any pin can be used on the ESP32. When you say your controllers are synced, is that something you're doing in the WLED UI, or, an automation you're running in HomeAssistant (e.g. trigger: turn on lights at 1700, action: Turn on light 1,2,3,4, etc. with no sec delay built in each)?
I'm using the WLED sync feature. But you could use Home Assistant automations as well. The nice feature about the WLED sync is that any individual controller can temporarily (and easily) be removed from the sync group if you want that segment or strip to be a different color and/or run a different effect. Then when you want, you can easily sync up the controllers again via WLED (or HA automation). So, for example, if your controllers are normally synced, but you want to create a special theme night, you can 'unsync' the controllers and set some of the LEDs to pink and another set to blue. Then when ready to return to 'normal' operation, just enable the sync on the controllers again.
Great video! (I landed here from the update you did later). Did you consider using one esp for all functions? Addressable lighting effects aren’t the easiest to write in esphome, but the defaults may cover what you need for this purpose. I’m considering the same project and I wonder if I could use a single esp for all 3 functions. I’m thinking maybe run a line inside the channel, behind the lights, for the sensor that is furthest from the power supply. I’m not sure about any issues with a long line between the sensor and the controller. Keeping it all in esphome could allow for automations that work without having to go to home assistant. Just wondered what your thoughts were. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks! Well, you could probably do it with a single ESP but at least when I built mine, it would have meant giving up WLED on the primary controller, along with all the various effects and options that go along with it. Yeah... ESPHome has a handful of LED effects, but nothing to the extent that WLED offers. But newer versions of WLED have support for up to two 'buttons' that could likely be used for wired motion detectors but I don't believe any connected buttons are accessible in Home Assistant (yet), which would make the automations difficult, if not impossible. But if you are OK with the effects that ESPHome offers (or are smart enough to figure out how to add your own through lambas), you could probably do most of it in ESPHome and a single ESP. Of course that would mean that you'd also have to run three wires from the controller location to each of the sensors... +V, GND and signal... as opposed to just a single USB power cable. But that's a personal preference and depends on either your ability to hide the wires or deal with more exposed wiring. With the aluminum channel that I'm using, I don't think you could hide the wires anywhere other than in front of the LEDs, which would make them visible through the diffuser... I tried that method with the USB power line and could have laid the flat USB cable under the double-sided tape and the LEDs on top of that... but chose to run the flat cable on the underside of the aluminum channel. It's basically not visible unless you get down on your hands and knees and look for it! I don't know about signal drop with a long wiring run for the sensors, but I suspect it would be fine as long as you used large enough gauge wiring. But of course larger wiring makes it harder to conceal! There are probably other hybrid methods that could be used as well. For me personally, I didn't want to give up all the features and options that WLED has... so that means I need to use independent motion detectors for all the automations to work how I want. But thanks for watching and sharing a good idea that some might prefer.
You are more than welcome! I wish I could take credit for the effects, but they are part of the WLED firmware that I used. The effects are actually much nicer than in the video, but it is really difficult to film LEDs as they tend to overwhelm the camera (well, at least with the equipment I'm using). Thanks for watching and taking time to comment.
Hey i ordered all the parts from the list, I’m going thru integration right now. How did you run your home assistant is it through a raspberry pi? Not sure how your running the server .
My Home Assistant server? I started with a Raspberry Pi a couple of years ago, but I'm currently running HA in Proxmox on an i5 NUC. After my home automation grew, I wanted something a bit more powerful (and reliable) than a Raspberry Pi. However, for this project, any platform that will run Home Assistant will work. You will need to add the WLED and ESPHome integrations within HA to get everything to work as I showed it. Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions!
I cant thank you enough for your video it helped me to decide what type of stairwell lighting I wanted to get. I am remodeling my basement and Ive been looking online at lighting systems. Where would I go to buy all the parts I need to complete this project? thx
You are most welcome! I'm glad you found the video helpful. One of the nice things about this system over a 'pre-built' one is that you will get many more effects and options using WLED. As far as parts, I have a related blog article that not only provides more details and wiring diagrams, but also has links to where I purchased all the various parts. You can find that here: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2021/07/simple-motion-activated-led-stair.html Do note that the particular system in this video requires Home Assistant or another compatible home automation system. If you don't have that, I do have a more basic version that works 'standalone' without any required outside automation. You can see that in this video: ruclips.net/video/b4s_VEtVWY4/видео.html Good luck with your project and don't hesitate to reach out if you run into any questions.
You have a few different options if you don't have a 3D printer. First, my design files are available on Thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/search?q=Resinchemtech&page=1&type=things&sort=relevant There are numerous online services where you can send them the design file and they will print and ship the printed part to you. Note that some of these services can be a bit expensive. If you have a college or some sort of maker space near you, you can check with them. In many cases, they can print a few 3D parts for you for free or at a minimal cost. There are numerous electronic project boxes available on Amazon. You can often take one of these and modify to fit your needs (this is what I often did before I had a 3D printer). Just search for 'Project box' and find a size that works for you. Finally, you can find something around the house to modify. A soap enclosure, and old plastic container, or sometimes even a small cardboard box can be adapted as an enclosure. Unfortunately, I don't have the time or infrastructure to build, package, ship, bill and all the other logistics involved with printing parts for others. I hope that info helps!
@@ResinChemTech I cant thank you enough, I am a network engineer by trade and i have minimal experience on the data side but this looks doable. It looks like a fun project and i cant wait to start once I have all the parts, I try not to bother you to much. Thanks again for the hand up,
Yeah... don't know that I have a great solution for curved stairs. Of course you could use the double-sided tape and LED strips without the channel, but you'd risk damaging the finish if you ever needed to remove the tape. And you'd also have to come up with some sort of flexible/bendable diffuser if you didn't want the bare LED pixels to show. Maybe someone else here has an idea?
You're welcome! And in case you aren't a Home Assistant user, I did create another version that works with only wifi (no hub or automation needed), although it does have fewer effects and features: ruclips.net/video/b4s_VEtVWY4/видео.html This might give you some additional ideas as well. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
@@ResinChemTech actually I'd never heard of Home assistant before I saw your video but now I'm definitely going to dig into that and see what I can do with it:-)
The lights themselves... no, sorry I don't. I think that the length needed might vary from staircase to staircase... and they'd be a real pain to ship! If you are talking about the controller (WLED), then Quindor sells pre-built controllers (with an integrated logic level shifter) and WLED preinstalled. You can find his store (and Dr. ZZs US store) at quinled.info/pre-assembled-quinled-dig-uno/. Of course, this doesn't include the light strips/rails nor the motion detectors that I used to activate mine. There may be some retail versions available for stair lighting, but I suspect that they will have less functionality (and be more costly) than any DIY version. They really are pretty easy to build yourself... you can even avoid soldering if you aren't comfortable with that, or don't want to take the time to do so. Let me know if I can help any further.
Great great video! I have the stairs set up the same way but I have it hooked up to my raspberry pi system. Can I just copy paste the code from your description to my raspberry pi and it work the same? The last person who owned the home left it hooked up but it hasn’t worked since I moved in.
Well, there are three parts to the "code". First is WLED, which runs on the ESP8266 controller. Then ESPHome is used on the motion detectors. Finally, there is the automation code, which is in YAML within Home Assistant. You could theoretically run the whole thing on a Pi, but not directly using the code that I used. You'd have to write something that would run on the Pi, detecting the motion via GPIO pins and then sending a signal out to the LED lights. Sorry... but the code I used is pretty much designed for ESP8266 and Home Assistant. But I'm pretty sure you could write everything in something like Python that would replicate what I've done here and run standalone on a Pi.
If I could hide a big power supply I'd do this in a heart beat. I've currently got a stairs light, that is visible from the main room that is distracting, I just don't have a good power\hide option.
Thanks. I've had other ask about the possibility of having me building this for them. In all honesty, even if I had time to assembly kits (and all the other work related to shipping, logistics, etc), everyone's stairs would be different enough in terms of length, power outlets locations, etc. that any sort of kit would still involve a lot of DIY for installation anyway (such as cutting rails to length, installing the LED strips, etc.). The only thing a kit might provide would be a pre-assembled controller with WLED installed. But that already exists, if you are interested. Quindor, over at QuinLED already sells a pre-build controller (with logic level shifter, fuse protection, etc): quinled.info/pre-assembled-quinled-dig-uno/
Great video....I would like to do this in my hallway...100ft what do I need how much power...would u plz give me a list of the supplies I would need to complete this project. Ty
Thanks. Your power requirements will be dependent upon which LED strips your use.. 30/m, 60/m, 100/m, etc. I use a rough estimate of 0.060A per pixel, which would be the max at full bright white. So, you would need to determine the total of number of pixels in your installation then calculate the power. I talk about power requirements, and also the complete parts list that I used in my related blog article: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2021/07/simple-motion-activated-led-stair.html You can take a look at that to see the parts you may need for your hallway installation. Good luck on your project!
I love this project. Kudos! Can share the 3 printer enclosure file with us? I cannot find one that's cover one side like the one you have. Oh, I'm new at 3D printing.
Yep... you can find links to the 3D printed parts (and much more) at the related blog article for this project: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2021/07/simple-motion-activated-led-stair.html (you'll find the links to the 3D printed parts at the end of the article). But if you haven't seen it yet, I made an improvement to the sensors for the top and bottom of the stairs since this original video. If you are considering building these stair lights yourself, you may want to take a quick peak at the following video and decide if these new sensors might work better for you as well: ruclips.net/video/ZRb_wpJo1AM/видео.html Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions!
Nice Idea. The only concern I would have is if you are able to turn it off when you need to sneak downstairs to shoot an intruder. I don't want my presence to be known or given away.
Thank You for the video . I followed step by step and it's up and running on my stairs. Question when walking past the first sensor it detects my first leg and turns on the lights but sometimes it detects my trailing leg and and turns off the lights . Is there any adjustments that I could make to fix this issue ?
You are using the ToF sensors and not the PIR sensors, correct? I had the same issue initially because the ToF sensors react so quickly. There are two things you can do, and it might be a combination of both that works out the best in your situation. First, you can shorten the 'trip' distance of the sensor in ESPHome to cover about 1/2 - 3/4 the width of the stairs. That way one leg would trip the sensor but the second leg would be outside that range and wouldn't trip. But this only works reliably if you always tend to step on the first step with the leg nearest the sensor. What worked best for me was to add a "for" clause to both the on and off automations in Home Assistant. In other words, you have an automation for both the the top and bottom sensor with a trigger that is: from: 'off' to: 'on' You would add a time to that so that the sensor must remain in that state for a minimum amount of time. For me, that was around 250 ms. So you just add a "for" statement to the trigger, so it looks like this: to: 'on' for: milliseconds: 250 Repeat this for the other automations that go from "on" to "off" as well, adding the 'for' statement. You may need to adjust the amount of time and/or use this in combination of changing the detection distance. It may take some trial and error, but you should be able to get it dialed in so that your second leg will rarely trip the sensor right after the first leg. Let me know if you have any follow up questions.
Hi, This is a very useful video. I just have a question and since your more than competent at this, I'm hoping you can answer. I have five steps from my decking to the garden. I want to put some IP65 Led strips under each step. I need to be motion activated. I can manage that. But my challenge is I want to use a solar power bank and I want to add on a PIR to the lights only come on with motion. Google assistant compatibility would be a luxury if possible So my question is, is it possible to add on 5 steps with of IP65 RGBW strips to a solar power bank with a PIR? If so, with Google assistant? Any and all help will be appreciated. Many thanks
Well... anything is possible! I think the challenge here will be the battery power... even with a solar charger. Both the WLED controller and PIR board will constantly draw power, even when the lights are off. You could move up to an ESP32 and use deep sleep to save battery, but the wake-up time (and time to connect to wifi) would make the motion-detection portion nearly useless. I tried the battery concept for small strip of LEDs in a closet (maybe 20 pixels) and the battery/power bank drained in two days, even with limited closet openings. Google integration is possible if using Home Assistant. There may be other ways. WLED natively supports Amazon Alexa.
I did something similar but for a pantry and I ran the LEDs around the inside of the molding of the door frame so it lit the pantry from top to bottom with a single LED string just cool white and a simple motion sensor so that at the door open the lights came on
I tried to add closet lights, similar to you, with the same basic controller and a door sensor. My issue was that I didn't have ready access to AC power, so I tried to run the system off of a battery pack. The batteries just didn't hold up long enough to make it worthwhile. I would need to use an ESP32 and deep sleep, but I've already experienced significant delay when doing that, because it takes time for the ESP to wake up, connect to wifi and then turn on the lights. It just wasn't feasible in my case. But I'd still like to do something like you've done with the pantry... but with AC power, it's a challenge to make it responsive enough.
Hi, thank you for the video. I am new for this, I was confused on the diagram system configuration. How is the two sensors (up and down stair) communicated with the WLED controller. Best regards, TC
The motion detectors, and the WLED controller, are integrated into Home Assistant. Home Assistant takes the change in the motion detector and turns the LEDs on or off, and sets the proper effect up or down depending on which motion detector fired. This particular system will not work without Home Assistant. However, if you are not a Home Assistant user, I did create another version (that has a few less features and effects, but works basically just the same). This version works 'standalone' and does not require Home Assistant or any other external system. You can see a video of that system here: ruclips.net/video/b4s_VEtVWY4/видео.html
While I utilize Home Assistant in a lot of my video projects, I don't have a video specifically on setting up and using Home Assistant. But there are a ton of videos on RUclips about the subject... just search "Home Assistant". I do have a little more information on the automations I use in Home Assistant in my related blog article... and copies of my Home Assistant automation code can be found in the related Github repo (links to both are in the video description of this video). However, this is just the automation code used in Home Assistant... not information on how to install and setup Home Assistant itself. Home Assistant is a great home automation platform that allows you to bring thousands of devices together under one application and create nice dashboards, create advanced automations, etc. However, it isn't necessarily a quick and easy undertaking. If you have other smart devices, then Home Assistant might be a good choice. But I don't think I'd install Home Assistant just for these stair lights. In that case, you'd be better off with the standalone version that I shared in my previous comment.
There are additional details in the video description, and you can find a step by step guide, along with the full parts list in the related blog article: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2021/07/simple-motion-activated-led-stair.html
Any insight on the plans to build the 3D enclosures? I have a 3D printer abc have no idea how to build from scratch. Im happy to donate and your stairs are awesome sir!
Thanks! I've thrown my designs that I used up on Thingiverse for you: PIR Sensor Enclosures: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4969716 Electrocookie Enclosures (full and mini): www.thingiverse.com/thing:4969733 Note that depending on your stairs and orientation, you may have to modify the "vanes" and which direction they are blocking motion on the PIR sensor enclosure. But this might work as a starting point and you can edit in Tinkercad or other 3D modeling software. Hope this helps!
It’s all well and good until your ghosts walk up and down the stairs at night
🤣🤣🤣
Tell me about it I'll shit myself , it's real badass but no thanks
Bruhhh im dead… as a Ghost lol
So funny and true
Ghosts are sort of invisible so they won't trip the sensor so you're good to go
This was the coldest entrance of all time. Well done sir!!!!
Nice.... Creativity creates Beauty.... I'd say start putting this in a ready to go kit... Once the world lays eyes on this... Thanks for sharing with such details..
Thanks! I have been asked a few times about building/selling some of the things I 've created. While I think there are possibilities there, I'm not sure I really have the time (or desire) to deal with shipping, logistics, and the physical builds themselves. It would definitely take away from what time I have to create new projects, videos, blog posts etc. My goal really isn't making a ton of money... just enough to maybe cover my expenses in sharing new projects. My primary goal is to give back to the DIY community that I learned from, promote local home automation, and to share ideas that other might adapt for their own needs. If someone really is interested in "pre-built" options, I try to direct them somewhere that they might find something similar. For example, if you want a pre-built WLED controller, Quindor and DrZZs sell pre-built controllers: quinled.info/pre-assembled-quinled-dig-uno/ (just tell them Resinchem Tech sent you!)
But thanks so much for the thought and watching!
@@ResinChemTech I understand but there are many people that don’t want to DIY it but love your idea. You could easily find a company that will take your idea and market it for you giving you some income for more of your ideas.
Im sure it has been said already but this was excellent! Very creative and it looks amazing. Like a "grand entrance" sort of feel. Well done.
Thanks.... even if it has been said before, I don't mind hearing it again!
Thanks for taking time to comment. I really do appreciate it!
All it needs is it to play the song "you light up my life" every time they come on.
people like you keep the world running! great job man
Cleansing the surface and using 3m primer is a game changer for that adhesive backing
I have found that 3m command strips are excellent for mounting those kinds of channels without using screws.
Absolutely... and a good suggestion for anyone that doesn't want even the small screw holes. I tried a small screw in an inconspicuous location and felt it was acceptable in my case. And I did like the added ability to easily remove a section of the rail from the clips in the event that I needed to make a repair (fortunately hasn't happened yet). But you could absolutely use command strips or even other double-sided tape as long is it wouldn't mar the finish upon removal. Thanks for watching and passing on the suggestion!
That's a good idea for senior citizens and those with disabilities to help them see where stairs and flat floors are at night
And it doesn't have to be that 'chasing lights' effect either. The lights could just gently fade on to a solid color to provide lighting and then fade back off again. Since WLED has literally hundreds of different effects (and colors), all sorts of uses are possible. I know a number of other viewers have reached out and they installed this same system along the baseboards in a long hallway to provide dimmed night lighting for those late night trips to the bathroom or kitchen!
Thanks for watching and taking time to post a comment!
omg i just imagined this thing detecting motion in the middle of the night when no one seems to be there, slowly walking down ..... got goosebumps now and dont want this anymore xD
Amazing! Gonna make one for my future house !
Mitch? Holy crap... I haven't seen you since I left Austin!
Now this is a fantastic idea. Now I've definitely got to do this in my house
Sir you are my hero. I’ve been wanting to do something like this for years. Thanks for the video I liked and subscribed. Fellow Indy neighbor here also.
Thanks! Just curious... are you a home automation/Home Assistant user? Just before the pandemic hit, I was looking for other Home Assistant/automation users in the Indy/central IN area to judge interest in some sort of users group around Home Assistant and/or automation. I had to put that on pause... so I went out and created a blog and RUclips channel instead! But the idea has hung around in my head... if we ever get back to "normal" some day! Let me know if you decide to tackle this project (or any others) and run into any questions.
Thanks again for the kind words... and the sub!
@@ResinChemTech no sir I’m neither home automation or assistant user. I’m a Hvac tech but I do a lot of diy to my home and always wanted to do this to my stairs but never really seen anything I like until your channel popped up.
Just as an FYI... I do have another video, if you haven't seen it, with basically the same setup but doesn't require Home Assistant, automation or any other hub: ruclips.net/video/b4s_VEtVWY4/видео.html
Of course, it doesn't have all the effects and options that the "full" version has, but it is standalone and does offer a way to recreate the stair lighting system without the whole Home Assistant/automation code portion. I did this version by request for folks that don't have Home Assistant or any sort of home automation hub.
@@ResinChemTech yes sir I just looked at it. I think I like that one
This is by far the best light system I’ve seen ! Do you sell the kit? I would love to purchase one ASAP
No, sorry I don't. To be honest, since everyone's stairs would be different and the location of the AC power would be different, any sort of kit really wouldn't save you much effort over creating the DIY version I showed in the video except for maybe building the controller. You can purchase a prebuilt controller from Quindor on his site if you don't want to build your own: quinled.info/pre-assembled-quinled-dig-uno/. Plus the size of the aluminum rails would make both packaging and shipping costs prohibitive.
But thanks for watching and asking!
This would be a nice feature to a drive way...
That is an interesting idea, and it could be adapted from the stairs fairly easily. Of course, everything would have to be weatherproofed, but I could even see combining it with a distance sensor (like I did in my parking assistant vid) and have the lights indicate when the car is parked in the desired position.
Thanks for the idea... might be worth investigating at some point.
This has to be the coolest thing since star wars! Great job buddy
Thanks! While it may seem a bit 'over the top', they actually are nice when we turn the main lights off to watch TV, as they provide plenty of light to go up and down the stairs without turning on the overhead lights. They aren't for everybody... but we like them!
Thanks for watching... and taking the time to leave a comment.
@@ResinChemTech u shud definitely market it if u can, its super cool
Amazing…perhaps you should manufacture and sell it!
Very interesting project. I am curious, though. You said that the lights turn on when one sensor is triggered, and off once the other is triggered. How does the system handle situations where someone might come up and go down at the same time? Is there a “minimum” amount of time needed between sensors trips?
There is an inherent "cool-down" time of about 2 seconds on the motion detectors that I used. I also use input_booleans in Home Assistant to know which sensor triggered and can code around "most" situations. But it is possible that multiple people using the steps at the same time can occasionally lead to either the lights shutting off prematurely, or even running in the wrong direction for the last person to enter the stairs. Doesn't happen often (there are only two of us and we are rarely both on the stairs at the same time). There is also a 'failsafe' that automatically shuts the lights off after 15 seconds in the event that a starting motion was detected, but the ending motion never occurs. All this is handled via the Home Assistant automation and really isn't part of the controller or hardware.
I sincerely appreciate your quick and precise response. Yes, you helped me a lot.
Neat! I may implement this on our stairs. I'm already familiar with all the pieces and am running HA, so it should be a quick weekend project.
Great! Let me know how it goes. If you are going to use my YAML, just assure you grab the right version of the Gist file as recent changes in HA and WLED broke the older version. If you are comfortable with YAML, I'm sure you'll have no problems but it seems that this is where most folks have reached out to me with issues... integrating my YAML automations into their particular HA instance.
Don't hesitate to reach out if you do run into any questions or problems... and good luck with your project!
@@ResinChemTech Will do! I've ordered some stuff to start the work. Primarily the channel, but also the PIR sensors and some D1s (I think I'm also nearly out of D1s - I've mostly been using ESP32 and ESP32 D1 Mini's of late, but the ESP8266s are plenty for this project). I have an extra LED strip so I'll start with one side to verify I like the channel I've chosen.
I imagine I'll just create my own HA automations so they make the most sense to me - I have at least 15 or 20 that I've written so far for lots of little things around the house that are motion or time or location dependent. I've got a few ESPHome devices already and I've even written WLED plugins, so I should be good with those. I just hadn't thought about putting the strips down the side (duh!) or lighting two strips in parallel from one data line - that works well?
Some of my WLED projects... I made this for our 25th anniversary (3d printed body, designed and printed by me, uses 3mm fiber optics, runs WLED) ruclips.net/video/hsc0FMRmU38/видео.html . I made this lamp for my grandson's birthday, the video shows off the plugins I made for WLED to provide on-board UI ruclips.net/video/tITQY80rIOA/видео.html .
Sounds like you have plenty of experience with HA and WLED, so I'm sure you'll figure that part out. Splitting the data signal worked out just fine and hasn't caused me any issues. I honestly didn't know at the very start if that would work, but I didn't want two separate controllers (knowing they'd never actually truly stay in-sync.. even if I used the WLED syncing feature). But with the single signal line.. and with the same number of pixels on both sides, they are perfectly in sync for all effects.
I did have to experiment with various motion detectors. I originally tried a couple of Zigbee versions (thinking that wireless would save me from running the extra USB cable), but everything else I tried had too long of a cool down period... up to 45 seconds in some case. The ones I ended up selecting had the shortest cooldown I could find... around 5 seconds.... but it did mean I had to run USB power to the one at the top. But as I showed in the video, using the flat cable pretty much makes it hidden.
Again, good luck and drop me a line when you get it done!
@@ResinChemTech Project completed yesterday. ruclips.net/video/DaU0u5YZguc/видео.html for a video. The parts I used for the project (along with links) are all in my video description. Thanks for the inspiration to finally install stair lights (I'd been considering it for a year). The missus loves them.
This is amazing! I ordered absolutely everything for the project. My only question is that I have a landing w/ 90 degree turn at the bottom of my steps so 1 side would need more LEDs then the other. Still a way to program that to work? Could you point me in the right direction for programming help?
Hi Tim. I responded to your post over in the blog, so please check there. But in short, yes, this will work with different number of pixels on each side... you just need to configure WLED with the max pixels on the "long" side of the stairs. Again, I tried to provide a little better explanation over in my blog response. Good luck with your project!
Very nice and straight forward. Most stair lighting has loghts going horizontal across each stair. I like the simplicity of your approach.
Thanks! I try to do projects that are not impossible to recreate or require a lot of specialized equipment... and that can be removed without having to do major restoration work! As I mention in a couple of videos, we will likely sell our house in a few years and most of this smart home tech will have to come back out unless the new owners want to keep some/all of it. I like some of the other videos with the lights across the treads, but they are much more complicated and require construction to hide wires, etc. Thanks for watching and taking time to comment!
You are amazing ,a very nice job indeed , I’ve nearly finished this project on my stairs too,I was wondering if It’s possible to operate this from a 5inch screen instead of my phone, if so could someone please help,many thanks Paul.
Wow, thanks! When you say 'operate this' are you talking about WLED... or Home Assistant, or what? Either way, both WLED and Home Assistant have mobile apps that could be installed on a small tablet (Android and/or iOS). Of course, they both also work in a browser if your display has that.
So, I'm happy to try to help, but I guess I need to know what it is that you'd like to control (e.g. WLED effects?) and what type of 5" screen you are talking about... and what are its capabilities/operating system?
Thank you for your reply and time,any suggestions on which screen to get?I will be installing home assistance ,I’m building your controller but got 12V strip lights, dose this alter the build of this controller please,many thanks for your help and time, many thanks Paul from the UK.
Just about any tablet will work as long as it has a web browser. I am using a couple of older Samsung tablets in different places in the house, but to be honest, Home Assistant handles most automations (like the stair lights) without any interaction, and many of the other things we interact using voice control with Google Home via Home Assistant.
As far as the 12V LED strips, you will obviously need to step that voltage down to 5V for the controller via a buck converter or other means (the D1 Mini will go "poof" if you try to feed it 12V). If you use separate power sources for the LEDs and the controller, then you must have a common ground between the controller and the LED strip or things won't function normally. Otherwise, as long as you feed 5V to the controller, the build is the same.
Hope that helps! Good luck with the project (and Home Assistant... I love what it can do!). Feel free to reach out again if you run into additional questions or problems.
My cats would have a hell of a good time with those.
Paint those stringers white and 🤌
I would also need to hide all that wiring to meet the spouse approval factor. Fantastic project.
Well... as the title of the video states, my goal was to do this "without staircase modification". I explain the reason why in one of my recent videos ( ruclips.net/video/rKAZxDtShCo/видео.html ). Naturally, the wires could be much better hidden if you are willing to drill into the staircase, pull carpet or cut into drywall. My goal was to install this system without making any changes... and so that the system could be removed in just a few minutes and you'd never know it was there.
But I fully understand the WAF! Luckily for me, mine is pretty lenient when it comes to the basement "man cave". Now, if I wanted to install this on our main stair case to the second floor... that would be a totally different situation (and don't think I haven't considered it... but that would have a very, very low WAF!)
Omfg I need this!!!! I can just picture my landlord now as I slowly walk down the stairs with these lights. Holy shit!!!!! Yes I MUST have these!!!
Hi, thanks for your great video. I really would love to build your project but unfortunately due to my lack of knowledge in this field its difficult for me to follow your steps as in your video the built part was unfortunately missing.
I clicked on like and subscribe the moment I realised you are making all the needed information available for free!
Thank you!!! 👍
PS: I am not planning to make use of any of the information available 😇🤪
Thanks! You never know... and you might be surprised! I never thought I'd be as involved in smart home tech and automation like I am now. But then you see something on RUclips and think "I could really use something like that to solve a problem I have in my house". One thing leads to another and before you know it, you have over 100 "smart" devices installed!
But even if you don't go down that route, I appreciate the time you took to watch and comment! Thanks again!
SPOT ON......TRUE INNOVATION ....................AMERICAN INGENUITY AT ITS' FINEST! ! !
Great video. I am going to take your ideas and implement in my house. In my case, I may be willing to make minor modifications to existing stairs if necessary to conceal the wiring even more fully. Thanks
Thanks! There are definitely things I would have done differently if I would have considered modifications to the stairs. There are some other videos out there of some really excellent stair lighting builds... even ones with lights horizontally across each tread. But as I've mentioned in a few other videos, we will likely be selling our home in the next 3-5 years and a lot of this smart home tech won't work for the next buyers (especially those that rely on Home Assistant, like this one), so most of my project installs will need to be removed. If this was our 'forever' home or if we were going to stay here in retirement, then I would have been much more likely to make modifications to hide the wiring a bit better.
I think my goal was a project that someone could do in a weekend... was easily removable if the better half didn't like it.. and it wasnt' going to leave any signs of it ever being there once was removed.
Thanks again for watching and taking time to comment.
Looks cool, however really needs a little bit of modification IMO to make things look very nice. I'd hate to have any visible wires at all personally
I hear ya... and I don't disagree! But my goal with all my smart home tech is to avoid making major modifications since we will likely sell in a few years and all the tech has to come back out. I don't want to be faced with making major repairs when things are removed. Completely hiding the wiring would have required drilling or routing the stringers, drilling through drywall, etc. I agree it would have made a more attractive install... but at the expense of making alterations to the stairs themselves.
Thanks for your feedback!
@@ResinChemTech My view is almost entirely the opposite. I'd probably leave all the tech in for increasing the perceived value of the house.
I bought a fixer upper house though from 1948, tore down all exterior walls to add insulation, so I don't mind if I make permanent changes as long as it looks good and adds charm to the house long-term.
I can tell you know what you are talking about though, can only assume you are some level of an electrical engineer or just a tech enthusiast.
EDIT: Should of read your shirt, clearly says Cyber Security lol. I'm a DevOps engineer personally.
You wouldn’t have a link or links for the parts needed by any chance? My wife loves this, as do i 👍🏻
Yep! You can find the complete parts list in my written version of this project, found here: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2021/07/simple-motion-activated-led-stair.html
Let me know if you decide to build it... or if you have any questions along the way.
I'm just two minutes into this video And I love it already
It's like walking off a flying saucer in the middle of the night!
This is amazing. 👏
May I ask if you have a video of you connecting all of this up? On to the boards?
You might take a look at the written version of this project. It has wiring diagrams and shows how all the different components and parts are wired together: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2021/07/simple-motion-activated-led-stair.html
If you have any particular questions after taking a look at that, don't hesitate to reach back out and ask.
I couldn't help but want one, kind of jealous, but I have a long hallway.
Will consider this.
I actually had another viewer that did install these lights down a long hallway instead of on stairs. Since WLED has hundreds of different effects, you could simply install these along the baseboard and simply have the lights gently fade on a solid color to light the hallway when motion is detected at either end of the hallway. You wouldn't have to use the chase or wipe effect I used here (but you certainly could). The general design is a concept could be used in a lot of different ways, in addition to stairs.
In fact, if you are not a Home Assistant user, I did do another version (with not quite as many features and effects) that works with only wifi... no home automation system or hub needed. You might check this out as another alternative: ruclips.net/video/b4s_VEtVWY4/видео.html
OMG! “I’ll build a staircase to paradise with a new step everyday”
My cat would enjoy that!
Looks very cool. Thanks for showing.
Thats actually pretty cool looking.. brightness could be lowered a lil bit though..
I simply use a USB mini PIR sensor and USB LED strips for the living room and bathroom, for the stairs i use a motion light i modified powered by 18650s or a USB power bank to recharge the batteries.
Thanks! I think it looks a little brighter than it actually is because LEDs simply "overwhelm" the camera... but the brightness is controllable via WLED. I'd be interested in your battery-operated versions. Someone else was just asking about that a few comments ago. I tried a short 20-pixel LED strip in a closet, activated by a door sensor powered by a USB power bank (12,500 mAh I think) and could never get more than a couple of days before needing to recharge. Probably due to the constant power draw from the microcontroller, but using an ESP32 with deep sleep took too long to wake up and respond when the door opened. I just haven't had any luck with battery-powered LED projects.... but I'm not saying it can't be done!
@@ResinChemTech GE Wireless Motion-Sensing Moveable LED Light Bar (Walmart) is the style im currently using but any similar style could be modified in the same way. i use a TP4056 module, i have it outside of the unit as how it looks doesnt bother me, the 18650s (2) sit nicely on the back of it. When the battery voltage gets low the Light itself blinks a red LED as an indicator, but instead of waiting for it to blink i just click the power bank every now and then to charge it back up.
I can go a month or so before it naturally needs to be recharged, if you have it in a closet then it should last even longer, assuming you use decent 18650s with low self discharge, i use the WESTINGHOUSE 2000mAh 18650s that you can find in store, the Hyper Tough batteries also sold in store do the job also, but the WH ones are better.
Hope this helps :)
Thank you for the informative and thorough explanation. I would like to do similar outside on my pathway from the street to the house. It is going to be 40ft long, 38 inches wide, stamped concrete with led embedded on the top of the concrete(facing the sky, not the sides) along the length. Also I would like to have motion sensors every 24 inches or so, so when someone steps in the middle of the pathway still to lit. Could you please answer several questions:
1. Can I use it without Home assistant or any other platform/server because this is a foreign language for me? If it is absolutely necessary I would educate myself, but prefer not to.
2. Can I install multiple motion sensors and also are you familiar with any waterproof that can face up since I do not want to install anything on the side and higher than the walkway so I would not trip, able to mow etc
Thank you in advance for your help.
There's a lot to cover with something like that... more than I can cover here in the comments, but I'll address a few basic items:
With an install that big (and that many LEDs), you'd probably need to use an ESP32 instead of an ESP8266. You would also need a very substantial power supply, along with power injection along the LED strips. Naturally, all of this would have to be waterproof.
I do have an LED controller that works with motion detectors and doesn't require Home Assistant (or any other system). You can see a video of that here: ruclips.net/video/b4s_VEtVWY4/видео.html But it currently only supports a maximum of 2 motion detectors, so you'd have to modify the code to work with more than that.
Finally, there are commercial outdoor motion detectors, but I don't know of anything like you describe. You'd likely have to build something custom and figure out how to power it and make it waterproof.
It sounds like a neat project, but it is also a pretty complicated one to build yourself. I hope I've provided at least a little helpful information to give you some things to consider.
Very cool... staircase cuts so much room off...
Dude this is sweet.......I cant to buy a house now!!!
I know its been a while since you made this and i hope you will get this. The system is absolutely amazing and exactly what I invisioned for my basement stairs(a blank canvas). I have been looking at pressure switches as a trigger. I would love your thoughts on this. I dont see any real benefit over yours, other than making the trigger invisible. Negligible to me.
Thanks
John Carr
Yep.. I still try to respond to questions regardless of how old the video is! You should be able to use just about any sort of binary sensor trigger that you like... and a pressure switch would be just that. Just as long as the sensor has (or can be converted to) an off/on state, you can use it in the automations.
Naturally you'd have to tweak the ESPHome code that is installed. ESPHome might treat this like a switch as opposed to a binary sensor. You might check out the ESPHome site ( esphome.io/ ) and see if you can find a listing for the particular pressure sensor/switch you are looking at. But even it if isn't listed, it is often possible to use a generic entity and tweak it for your needs.
Let me know how it goes or if you have any additional questions. Oh... and if you do opt to use regular sensors instead of a pressure switch, you might want to check out my updated video on this project if you haven't seen it, where I use time-of-flight sensors instead of PIR sensors... I've found these sensors to be much more reliable and less prone to false triggers than the PIR sensors ( ruclips.net/video/ZRb_wpJo1AM/видео.html ).
Thank you and yes of course I'll keep you updated. Have you looked at the Aqara FPT2 motion sensors?
I've seen videos on it, but haven't tried one myself (yet). They are extremely interesting, but currently a little hard to come by domestically (Amazon shows 'unavailable') and pretty costly at this point. I'm sure I'll pick one up sometime... if for no other reason than to just play with it. I do have one potential use case (my automated garage lighting), but the system I currently have in place is working fine. But like most new toys, I'll buy it first and THEN find a use case!
Thats is my next project for sure. Thanks for this video.
You are most welcome! Note that I did a follow up video where I upgrade the motion sensors with a different (and in my opinion better) type of sensor that isn't as susceptible to false detections. You might want to take a peek at that, along with the full written version of this project, before starting you own build. This original video was done quite some time ago, so I have made improvements in the time since this particular video was released.
Let me know how your project goes... or if you have any other questions along the way.
I thought it was cool but I'd be so busy looking at how cool it is, I'd fall down the stairs!!!
Thanks sir, I found the details in the description.
This is cool as hell...
Hi that is so nice so question are you interested in putting all the wiring together and will buy it from you ?
Thank you. And while I appreciate the interest, many others have asked a similar question. Unfortunately, I just don't have the time or capacity to build, package, ship and all the other logistics around supplying these (or any of my other projects) for others. I understand that some many not have the desire or skill to complete these projects on their own, but the goal of my channels is to try to show others how they can do it themselves.
I hope you can understand my position. Regardless, thanks for taking the time to watch.
@@ResinChemTech First thank you for responding! And yes I do understand I have alot going on myself that why I ask if you can put it together for me 😂😂 but I am going to try so I hope you don't mind if I shoot you a question or 10 lol it my take me some time but I will put one together I will keep you posted .
Thanks for understanding! I am always more than happy to answer questions and to try to help folks out with any of their projects. As I mentioned, my goal for my channel is to help and teach others how to do some of these things... as others helped me when I first started. Please, don't hesitate to reach out and ask me any questions along the way. If you do build it yourself, it will be much more satisfying than buying it from me! Best of luck.
Awesome job! What is the average price for a setup like this? Cool project!
Thanks. An actual cost is a bit hard to come by. First, it depends on what items you might already have on hand. Next, unfortunately, you have to buy some of these parts in 'package' quantities. The aluminum channel for example, sells in a pack of 10 6.6 ft lenghts. The microcontrollers and logic level shifters normally can't be purchased in single quantities.
But as a rough estimate, if you had to buy everything, the cost of the parts actually used in the project is probably around $100 - $150... most of that is in the aluminum channel, LED lights and power supply. If it is helpful, I have a full list of the parts I used in my related blog article: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2021/07/simple-motion-activated-led-stair.html
Let me know if you have any other questions!
I just want to make sure I'm clear. The flat usb cable is just to power the top board? If so where is the other end plugged into? Or is it cut off and wired into PS?. Another where are the wires joined to work the leds on the other side? You said they needed a sync signal which I understand but just not clear where they are actually joined together. Sorry for all the questions but thanks for responding. Nice u in Indiana I'm in Wisconsin near Milwaukee.
Yes... the flat USB cable is just to power the D1 mini/motion detector at the top of the stairs. It could be wired directly into the power supply, but I needed to use a short extension cord for the PS anyway, so I just used one with USB ports and ran the USB cable to that. For the data signal, it comes out of the controller and I just split that to the two sections of the LED strips. If it helps, you can find a diagram of how I wired mine in my related blog article: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2021/07/simple-motion-activated-led-stair.html (it's near the beginning of article, right after the parts list).
Again, this is based on where my AC power was located. For me, the location and connection between the controller, power supply and other 5V components is based on where I can best tap into power and best hide those components and related wiring. For others, it might make sense to run the USB cable back to the PS, cut off the end and wire direct. But for me, it always varies from install to install. Hope that helps, let me know if you have additional questions.
Hi, Good to see your videos step by step. Unfortunately I am not able to find all parts which you mentioned in your forum. Since I dont have much knowledge on Electrical side, can build one more me and ship it. Please let me know.
I'm sorry that you are having some issues sourcing some of the parts. Unfortunately, I just don't have the time to build, package, ship and track the logistics of selling devices to others. But if you are interested in purchasing a pre-built controller for WLED, I always recommend the DigiUno by Quindor. You can find his controllers at: quinled.info/pre-assembled-quinled-dig-uno/
Like the idea. Just wish the install was cleaner. Any ideas on how to hide the stuff?
That all depends on your tolerance level for making modifications to things like the stair stringers, drywall, carpet, etc. I think the 'ugliest' part of this install is the wiring that has to run under the first tread lip to the opposite side stringer for the second side lights. It really isn't as noticeable as it appears in the video when standing and with the similarly colored Velcro holding it in place. I "could" have cut the carpet, ran the wiring underneath and then glued the carpet back in place. But that wasn't a modification that I was willing to make as my goal was to be able to remove the entire system without the need to make any repairs.
There are a lot of other videos out there on making a stair lighting system similar to this... but with pretty substantial 'construction' or changes to the existing stairs. My goal here was to create something that wouldn't require any of that and could easily be removed.... with the downside of the exposed wiring. But you could definitely make this install 'neater' if you are willing to make some structural changes.
If we had stairs I’d do this just for that preview 😂👍
Well, I know that some folks have contacted me and let me know that they have taken this same system and installed it along the baseboards of a long hallway to provide lighting at night when going to the bathroom or kitchen. So, I guess you don't technically need to have stairs to install something like this!
Just a thought... thanks for watching and taking time to leave a comment!
Thanks good idea - yes definitely need it for our hallway - will prevent the kids from leaving all the overhead lights on all the time 😂👍
I appreciate this video so freaking much. Thank you for sharing
Btw you don't need the logic level shift with the ws2812bs, they will accept a digital signal all the way down to 1.7 volts, so 3.3 is more than adequate, if you don't believe me check the datasheet for the ws2812b itself, it'll say the same thing
You may be correct, but my references say: "The datasheet tells us that a logic high input will be detected at a minimum voltage of 0.7 * Vcc. If you’re running the LED at 5V, this means 5 V * 0.7 = 3.5 V will be needed for the WS2812 to detect a ‘1’ on the data line." Here is the data sheet I am referencing (cdn-shop.adafruit.com/datasheets/WS2812B.pdf) and you can see that it also notes a working voltage starting at 3.5V. While you can sometimes get away with 3.3V (or even just a bit lower), there can be signal instability that might cause random issues. Add in the fact that I sometimes place my controller a meter or more away from the first pixel and voltage drop from just the wire resistance itself is enough to cause intermittent problems. In my opinion, it is well worth the $1 cost of the logic level shifter (or even a sacrificial pixel) to boost the signal to 5V. This allows plenty of headspace for any voltage drop due to the wiring run between the controller and LED strip. Nearly all references that I see online (or from others) recommend use of a voltage shifter or sacrificial pixel. But like all DIY projects, there are many possibilities and if you can get a reliable signal without the shifter, then by all means feel free to omit it.
..... excellent Video. I've *GOTTA* try this.
Thanks! Give it a shot... it's really a pretty easy project to build.
That looks cool. Thanks for sharing this brilliant idea.
Thanks. Glad you found it interesting. It can be a bit complicated and a lot of folks may not have Home Assistant or another compatible automation system, but I followed this up with a similar system that is a bit easier to configure and works standalone... without the need for Home Assistant or any other sort of hub.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
Amazing video 💪
Apparently the mothership has landed, and it's now operating out of somebody's basement until the beachhead is established.
I will now report back to our leader, Zhlok.
Got these in thr house i just bought! Drove me nuts so i disconnected them!!
I mean I love it, I want it, can you make one for me as a kit , I don't code can't code so I can't make them do the cool things , but I can install and make the wires disappear, I've been looking for this but have no way of getting them, I have a building co and would like to start using this basically everywhere, so please help
Unfortunately I don't have the time or resources to build, ship, charge, etc. for any sort of stair kits. I try to design my videos for the DIY crowd. Note that this particular video shows an installation that requires the end user to have Home Assistant. If you are building for others, there is a very high chance that they may not have (or want to deal with) the Home Assistant automation system. However, I have created a version that works without Home Assistant and doesn't require any other automation system. It is a bit more basic in terms of number of effects and features, but the physical build is nearly identical and it still functions (via motion) in much the same way. You may want to take a look at this video and see if it might be a better fit in your situation: ruclips.net/video/b4s_VEtVWY4/видео.html
Great job sir; but why we dont use only one programmable esp and attach all inputs and outputs to it then code it to do the task ?!
Primarily because the light controller is running WLED firmware. This provides over a hundred different effects... and not something I would want to rewrite or code myself. The sensors, on the other hand, are running ESPHome... same deal. Both integrate nicely into Home Assistant... which handles all the automation processes.
Obviously, you cannot put two different firmware versions (WLED and ESPHome) on a single controller. I do have a standalone version that uses a single controller ( ruclips.net/video/b4s_VEtVWY4/видео.html ) for both the lights and the sensors, written with Arduino code. However, it does not have anywhere near the features or number of effects of WLED. No way that I wanted to try to recreate my own version of that great firmware.
But in a nutshell, that's why more than one controller is used. It also simplifies the wiring that needs to run between the controller and sensors, since the sensors only need power and not an additional data line.
Very good, that's almost exactly how I want to do it. Is it possible to make it work regardless if the Home Assistant is not working/not available? Can i use with WLED FW, 2 motion sensors and possibly a lux sensor? I would like it can work on its own, but it can also be controlled via the WLED app/Home Assistant. Can this be solved? Can you make a video and/or description about this?
Well.. if you are using WLED (instead of the standalone option), then WLED has to be able to handle all of the automations if Home Assistant isn't available. While it might be possible to use a motion sensor and/or a lux sensor with the WLED controller for some basic features like turning on the lights, it doesn't have the automation engine to do the more advanced options... like a timer to turn the lights off after a set time, use two sensors in conjunction, etc. The standalone version builds in this automation engine, but doesn't have all the WLED features.
So, it's more or less picking one over the other. You can use WLED, but then need a separate automation platform (like Home Assistant, NodeRed, etc.)... or you can build the automations into custom firmware (standalone), but then you cannot install both this custom firmware and WLED on the same controller.
There are a number of custom user modifications available for WLED. There might be something that that you could add as custom mod to WLED that would give you close to what you want. But I haven't tried or tested any of these. You can review the list of user contributions here: github.com/Aircoookie/WLED/tree/main/usermods
This is very cool and inspiring!
Thanks! I appreciate it!
Good day to you sir, thank you some much for sharing your knowledge. I have been wanting to do this for a while now and I have all the components, and I'm ready to start assembling it.
I'm waiting on a new led strip so that I can add lights to both sides. I am still having a bit of brain block, trying to understand how the two ESPHome D1 minis talk to the WLED controller..
I assume you are referring to the D1 Minis that are used for the motion detection? Home Assistant and Home Assistant automations are how the devices 'talk'. The Home Assistant automation uses the motion from the motion sensors as a trigger to then turn on the LEDs via the LED controller. The latter part of the video covers that and you can find links to the entire Home Assistant automation in the video description.
I hope that helps. This particular version does require Home Assistant or a similar home automation platform to work and to allow those components to 'talk' to each other.
@@ResinChemTech thank you for the quick response, I appreciate it. Does this section need to be the same on both of the D1 minis that are running ESPHOME?
binary_sensor:
- name: "Breakbeam Sensor" == ???
id: breakbeam_sensor
platform: template
device_class: motion
Are you using the new ToF sensors that I showed in this video ( ruclips.net/video/ZRb_wpJo1AM/видео.html ) as that is the ESPHome code for these types of sensors. If you are using the PIR sensors as shown in _this_ video, then you need to use the ESPHome code from the Github repository that does NOT have _tof in the file name. The Github repo has example ESPHome for both, the ToF sensors (with _tof in the name) and the PIR sensors (without _tof in the name).
Very nice. Do you know of a motion sensor that could be used as a touchless button for something like this? Something where maybe the range is very short, somewhere around 1/2" to trigger it? My idea is to "tap" it with your foot to get it go on.
My first thought is to use an ultrasonic or lidar sensor (like I used in my parking assistant and car detection vid). That way, you'd be measuring distance instead of motion. When something (like your foot) moved in front of the sensor at less than a predetermined distance (say < 2"), that could trigger the lights on/off via Home Assistant. Using this method, someone passing by the sensor at a 'normal' distance would not trigger the lights. I think the challenge here might the the speed of reactivity of the sensor (how quickly it reports a distance change). But it might be worth a shot!
@@ResinChemTech Thanks, yes, that's a direction I was looking at. It might work. I found these just now also and it seems like it might be the answer: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T91JXHW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@ResinChemTech This is interesting too. Looks like what you were talking about and it goes down to 2cm which is the feature I couldn't find in other ultrasonic sensors. I ordered this too and will see what works best. www.amazon.com/dp/B088R3V9X8?psc=1&smid=A2SNA9AH12A511&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp
Great! I haven't worked with either one of those options, but let me know how it works out.
Excellent video! It’s motivated me to try this.
I was wondering is there a way to creat a wireless PIR sensor or even button? I was hoping maybe a battery powered separate D1 mini with PIR could link up to and control another D1 mini which is being used as the main WLED driver but is out of sight.
Thanks! Glad it provided you with some motivation to try it yourself!
It is certainly possible to use something wireless for the sensors at the top and bottom of the staircase. I'm not sure that a D1 Mini is the correct choice as it would probably draw too much power and quickly drain a battery (wifi devices are power hungry!). I'd look at maybe something like a Zigbee motion sensor (especially if you already have a Zigbee network). The issue with these, however, is that they generally have long cool down periods (like 30 seconds or more), which could be a challenge in terms of the automation... since the sensor would continue to show motion long after someone has exited the stairs. I believe Aqara has a new motion sensor where you can specify the cooldown, but I haven't tried or tested them. You may also have issues with the wide field of view (FOV) with a PIR sensor like this, depending on your stair configuration. I had this issue at the bottom of my stairs, and just recently released a video where I replaced these PIR sensors with TOF sensors (you can see that vid here: ruclips.net/video/ZRb_wpJo1AM/видео.html ) - but this would also be a wired/D1 Mini solution, although it does work much better than the PIR option.
You could always try a battery-operated D1 Mini... something like a LiPo battery would probably be best... but I know that from my original mailbox solution that used a battery-driven ESP32 (that even when into deep sleep when not in use), I couldn't get more than about a month out of the battery. I suspect an D1 Mini that has to constantly be awake and watch for motion would drain even faster than that... possibly within a week.
If you find a good wireless solution, please pass it along! I'd love to share it with my viewers and provide that option. Also feel free to reach back out if you have any additional questions. Good luck with your project!
@@ResinChemTech yeah looks like your’re completely right. D1 mini approx 40mA draw which will soon take its toll on a battery. I will still look into other options but I’m not hopeful.
I don’t have a zigbee network but assume it’s relatively cheap to set up so could be an option.
Yes I had already seen your video on the PIR upgrade and intended to do that. The only thing with that side of it that I need to do now is work out how to get an ambient light sensor in so that it only come on when below a certain lighting level.
I get I could use another input (probably have to be analogue) and then have a condition based statement saying “if THIS and MOTION then turn light on”.
Did you bother with this yourself or just have them come on in any lighting condition?
****edit***** seen that I would need to create an automation with the trigger as either the upstairs or downstairs motion sensor and then have a condition of lux level below a certain value to achieve only lighting up in the dark.
Slowly getting there.
Just need to make sure that the D1 mini can cope efficiently with the three sensors.
@@ResinChemTech also, thanks for the response! And especially how quickly you got back to me.
I don't use any sort of light sensor for the stairs. They come on all the time unless I toggle the input_boolean to disable the automations. I do, however, lower the brightness of the LEDs if it is after 10 pm and the overhead basement lights are off. I did this just fairly recently as I was getting blinded by the bright LED stair lights after watching TV in a dark basement and then heading up to bed. With no windows in the basement, there isn't any 'ambient' light, other than the overhead recessed lighting... which is also automated in Home Assistant... so, I can use the brightness level setting of the overhead lighting to alter the stair lights.
As far as a light level sensor, of course you can just use a photoresistor. But in my new garage multisensor, I use a photosensitive light module. This uses a photoresistor as well, but had a digital binary sensor that is 'on' or 'off' based on an adjustable light level. They are only about $2 apiece, but easier to use than a photoresistor, analog level and trying to convert that to lux. You can see that in my video on an updated multisensor ( ruclips.net/video/tVTha44i8SI/видео.html ). The D1 Mini won't have a problem dealing with both a motion sensor and a light level sensor. But you are right that motion would serve as the trigger and light level as a condition in your automation.
Let me know if you have additional questions or thought!
Okay, that is cool AF!!!!!! Awesome job!!!!!
Excellent video, thank you!!
Instead of stairs, I'd like to do under cabinets and shelving on each side of the vent hood - with say 6 different lines (minimum, and short runs) do you think I'd need more than one esp32? I'd ideally tie everything together in the cabinet of the vent hood... conceptually I can't visualize having a single controller
Well, there would be different ways to approach this depending on how you want everything to work and function. Technically, the ESP32 can support up to 10 different channels or pins. It can get tricky in terms of setting those up and the segments to match. You can read more about how that is done on the WLED offical site here: kno.wled.ge/features/multi-strip/
A different option is to use multiple controllers and sync them together. That is how I approached my kitchen cabinets. I have a row of cabinets on each side of the kitchen. I technically have four controllers... two on each side (one for the top of the cabinets and one for the under side). All four controllers are synced. When any controller is set to a color or effect, then the same color/effect is synced to the other 3 controllers. Of course this does require more wiring and a separate power supply for each side of the kitchen.
So there are different ways to approach it... using either a single controller with multiple pins/data outputs on a single ESP32... or multiple controllers that can optionally be synced to act as one.
I hope that helps. Good luck with your project. My wife loves the undercabinet lighting for the additional workspace light.. and I love the ability to use colors for special occasions, entertaining, etc.
@ResinChem Tech Thanks for your quick reply and level of detail in your thoughts. The article was helpful in the idea that any pin can be used on the ESP32. When you say your controllers are synced, is that something you're doing in the WLED UI, or, an automation you're running in HomeAssistant (e.g. trigger: turn on lights at 1700, action: Turn on light 1,2,3,4, etc. with no sec delay built in each)?
I'm using the WLED sync feature. But you could use Home Assistant automations as well. The nice feature about the WLED sync is that any individual controller can temporarily (and easily) be removed from the sync group if you want that segment or strip to be a different color and/or run a different effect. Then when you want, you can easily sync up the controllers again via WLED (or HA automation). So, for example, if your controllers are normally synced, but you want to create a special theme night, you can 'unsync' the controllers and set some of the LEDs to pink and another set to blue. Then when ready to return to 'normal' operation, just enable the sync on the controllers again.
@@ResinChemTech Thank you!! Much appreciated!!
Great video! (I landed here from the update you did later).
Did you consider using one esp for all functions? Addressable lighting effects aren’t the easiest to write in esphome, but the defaults may cover what you need for this purpose. I’m considering the same project and I wonder if I could use a single esp for all 3 functions. I’m thinking maybe run a line inside the channel, behind the lights, for the sensor that is furthest from the power supply. I’m not sure about any issues with a long line between the sensor and the controller.
Keeping it all in esphome could allow for automations that work without having to go to home assistant.
Just wondered what your thoughts were. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks! Well, you could probably do it with a single ESP but at least when I built mine, it would have meant giving up WLED on the primary controller, along with all the various effects and options that go along with it. Yeah... ESPHome has a handful of LED effects, but nothing to the extent that WLED offers.
But newer versions of WLED have support for up to two 'buttons' that could likely be used for wired motion detectors but I don't believe any connected buttons are accessible in Home Assistant (yet), which would make the automations difficult, if not impossible.
But if you are OK with the effects that ESPHome offers (or are smart enough to figure out how to add your own through lambas), you could probably do most of it in ESPHome and a single ESP. Of course that would mean that you'd also have to run three wires from the controller location to each of the sensors... +V, GND and signal... as opposed to just a single USB power cable. But that's a personal preference and depends on either your ability to hide the wires or deal with more exposed wiring. With the aluminum channel that I'm using, I don't think you could hide the wires anywhere other than in front of the LEDs, which would make them visible through the diffuser... I tried that method with the USB power line and could have laid the flat USB cable under the double-sided tape and the LEDs on top of that... but chose to run the flat cable on the underside of the aluminum channel. It's basically not visible unless you get down on your hands and knees and look for it! I don't know about signal drop with a long wiring run for the sensors, but I suspect it would be fine as long as you used large enough gauge wiring. But of course larger wiring makes it harder to conceal!
There are probably other hybrid methods that could be used as well. For me personally, I didn't want to give up all the features and options that WLED has... so that means I need to use independent motion detectors for all the automations to work how I want. But thanks for watching and sharing a good idea that some might prefer.
Very cool effects. Thanks for the idea
You are more than welcome! I wish I could take credit for the effects, but they are part of the WLED firmware that I used. The effects are actually much nicer than in the video, but it is really difficult to film LEDs as they tend to overwhelm the camera (well, at least with the equipment I'm using).
Thanks for watching and taking time to comment.
That ghost in the beginning starting to walk down the stairs but then realizing his mortal roommate is trying to film a video
Love it it should be a standard
Hey i ordered all the parts from the list, I’m going thru integration right now. How did you run your home assistant is it through a raspberry pi? Not sure how your running the server .
My Home Assistant server? I started with a Raspberry Pi a couple of years ago, but I'm currently running HA in Proxmox on an i5 NUC. After my home automation grew, I wanted something a bit more powerful (and reliable) than a Raspberry Pi. However, for this project, any platform that will run Home Assistant will work. You will need to add the WLED and ESPHome integrations within HA to get everything to work as I showed it. Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions!
I cant thank you enough for your video it helped me to decide what type of stairwell lighting I wanted to get. I am remodeling my basement and Ive been looking online at lighting systems. Where would I go to buy all the parts I need to complete this project? thx
You are most welcome! I'm glad you found the video helpful. One of the nice things about this system over a 'pre-built' one is that you will get many more effects and options using WLED.
As far as parts, I have a related blog article that not only provides more details and wiring diagrams, but also has links to where I purchased all the various parts. You can find that here: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2021/07/simple-motion-activated-led-stair.html
Do note that the particular system in this video requires Home Assistant or another compatible home automation system. If you don't have that, I do have a more basic version that works 'standalone' without any required outside automation. You can see that in this video: ruclips.net/video/b4s_VEtVWY4/видео.html
Good luck with your project and don't hesitate to reach out if you run into any questions.
@@ResinChemTech The enclosures you mase with a 3D printer? My issue I don't think I can afford a 3D PRINTER.
Can you purchase?
You have a few different options if you don't have a 3D printer. First, my design files are available on Thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/search?q=Resinchemtech&page=1&type=things&sort=relevant There are numerous online services where you can send them the design file and they will print and ship the printed part to you. Note that some of these services can be a bit expensive.
If you have a college or some sort of maker space near you, you can check with them. In many cases, they can print a few 3D parts for you for free or at a minimal cost.
There are numerous electronic project boxes available on Amazon. You can often take one of these and modify to fit your needs (this is what I often did before I had a 3D printer). Just search for 'Project box' and find a size that works for you.
Finally, you can find something around the house to modify. A soap enclosure, and old plastic container, or sometimes even a small cardboard box can be adapted as an enclosure. Unfortunately, I don't have the time or infrastructure to build, package, ship, bill and all the other logistics involved with printing parts for others.
I hope that info helps!
@@ResinChemTech I cant thank you enough, I am a network engineer by trade and i have minimal experience
on the data side but this looks doable. It looks like a fun project and i cant wait to start once I have all the parts,
I try not to bother you to much. Thanks again for the hand up,
@@ResinChemTech ARE THE DESIGNED IN MM OR IN?
very cool.. i think one problem i have is that my staircase is curved, so I don't think i can use those aluminum channels :(
Yeah... don't know that I have a great solution for curved stairs. Of course you could use the double-sided tape and LED strips without the channel, but you'd risk damaging the finish if you ever needed to remove the tape. And you'd also have to come up with some sort of flexible/bendable diffuser if you didn't want the bare LED pixels to show. Maybe someone else here has an idea?
Now, release the cat!
This is so cool! Thank you it gives me so many ideas
You're welcome! And in case you aren't a Home Assistant user, I did create another version that works with only wifi (no hub or automation needed), although it does have fewer effects and features: ruclips.net/video/b4s_VEtVWY4/видео.html This might give you some additional ideas as well.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
@@ResinChemTech actually I'd never heard of Home assistant before I saw your video but now I'm definitely going to dig into that and see what I can do with it:-)
Do you happen to have any of these lights pre made? Would love to buy some that I can have already assembled so that I can mount them to my stairs
The lights themselves... no, sorry I don't. I think that the length needed might vary from staircase to staircase... and they'd be a real pain to ship! If you are talking about the controller (WLED), then Quindor sells pre-built controllers (with an integrated logic level shifter) and WLED preinstalled. You can find his store (and Dr. ZZs US store) at quinled.info/pre-assembled-quinled-dig-uno/. Of course, this doesn't include the light strips/rails nor the motion detectors that I used to activate mine. There may be some retail versions available for stair lighting, but I suspect that they will have less functionality (and be more costly) than any DIY version. They really are pretty easy to build yourself... you can even avoid soldering if you aren't comfortable with that, or don't want to take the time to do so. Let me know if I can help any further.
WOW!!! This is really nice.
Oh my GOD! WOW!!!
Stunning and brave
Great great video! I have the stairs set up the same way but I have it hooked up to my raspberry pi system. Can I just copy paste the code from your description to my raspberry pi and it work the same? The last person who owned the home left it hooked up but it hasn’t worked since I moved in.
Well, there are three parts to the "code". First is WLED, which runs on the ESP8266 controller. Then ESPHome is used on the motion detectors. Finally, there is the automation code, which is in YAML within Home Assistant. You could theoretically run the whole thing on a Pi, but not directly using the code that I used. You'd have to write something that would run on the Pi, detecting the motion via GPIO pins and then sending a signal out to the LED lights. Sorry... but the code I used is pretty much designed for ESP8266 and Home Assistant. But I'm pretty sure you could write everything in something like Python that would replicate what I've done here and run standalone on a Pi.
I think the 'Pi' would not be a good choice because of the high current consumption
If I could hide a big power supply I'd do this in a heart beat. I've currently got a stairs light, that is visible from the main room that is distracting, I just don't have a good power\hide option.
Awesome! Thanks for the video
Wow, I'd buy a kit from you.
Thanks. I've had other ask about the possibility of having me building this for them. In all honesty, even if I had time to assembly kits (and all the other work related to shipping, logistics, etc), everyone's stairs would be different enough in terms of length, power outlets locations, etc. that any sort of kit would still involve a lot of DIY for installation anyway (such as cutting rails to length, installing the LED strips, etc.).
The only thing a kit might provide would be a pre-assembled controller with WLED installed. But that already exists, if you are interested. Quindor, over at QuinLED already sells a pre-build controller (with logic level shifter, fuse protection, etc): quinled.info/pre-assembled-quinled-dig-uno/
Imagine this going off while you're home alone
Great video....I would like to do this in my hallway...100ft what do I need how much power...would u plz give me a list of the supplies I would need to complete this project. Ty
Thanks. Your power requirements will be dependent upon which LED strips your use.. 30/m, 60/m, 100/m, etc. I use a rough estimate of 0.060A per pixel, which would be the max at full bright white. So, you would need to determine the total of number of pixels in your installation then calculate the power. I talk about power requirements, and also the complete parts list that I used in my related blog article: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2021/07/simple-motion-activated-led-stair.html
You can take a look at that to see the parts you may need for your hallway installation. Good luck on your project!
I'm not sure what's more impressive... This video or the fact that you have a 100 foot hallway.
That is so freakin cool, nice job.
I love this project. Kudos! Can share the 3 printer enclosure file with us? I cannot find one that's cover one side like the one you have. Oh, I'm new at 3D printing.
Yep... you can find links to the 3D printed parts (and much more) at the related blog article for this project: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2021/07/simple-motion-activated-led-stair.html (you'll find the links to the 3D printed parts at the end of the article).
But if you haven't seen it yet, I made an improvement to the sensors for the top and bottom of the stairs since this original video. If you are considering building these stair lights yourself, you may want to take a quick peak at the following video and decide if these new sensors might work better for you as well: ruclips.net/video/ZRb_wpJo1AM/видео.html
Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions!
@@ResinChemTech Thank you kindly! I already watch the improved video a few time. Outstanding!
Good stuff.
Nice Idea. The only concern I would have is if you are able to turn it off when you need to sneak downstairs to shoot an intruder. I don't want my presence to be known or given away.
Thank You for the video . I followed step by step and it's up and running on my stairs. Question when walking past the first sensor it detects my first leg and turns on the lights but sometimes it detects my trailing leg and and turns off the lights . Is there any adjustments that I could make to fix this issue ?
You are using the ToF sensors and not the PIR sensors, correct? I had the same issue initially because the ToF sensors react so quickly. There are two things you can do, and it might be a combination of both that works out the best in your situation.
First, you can shorten the 'trip' distance of the sensor in ESPHome to cover about 1/2 - 3/4 the width of the stairs. That way one leg would trip the sensor but the second leg would be outside that range and wouldn't trip. But this only works reliably if you always tend to step on the first step with the leg nearest the sensor.
What worked best for me was to add a "for" clause to both the on and off automations in Home Assistant. In other words, you have an automation for both the the top and bottom sensor with a trigger that is:
from: 'off'
to: 'on'
You would add a time to that so that the sensor must remain in that state for a minimum amount of time. For me, that was around 250 ms. So you just add a "for" statement to the trigger, so it looks like this:
to: 'on'
for:
milliseconds: 250
Repeat this for the other automations that go from "on" to "off" as well, adding the 'for' statement. You may need to adjust the amount of time and/or use this in combination of changing the detection distance. It may take some trial and error, but you should be able to get it dialed in so that your second leg will rarely trip the sensor right after the first leg. Let me know if you have any follow up questions.
Very awesome project!
Hi, I like ur this project, what AWG size wire did you use to power led strip?
Hi,
This is a very useful video. I just have a question and since your more than competent at this, I'm hoping you can answer.
I have five steps from my decking to the garden. I want to put some IP65 Led strips under each step. I need to be motion activated. I can manage that. But my challenge is I want to use a solar power bank and I want to add on a PIR to the lights only come on with motion. Google assistant compatibility would be a luxury if possible
So my question is, is it possible to add on 5 steps with of IP65 RGBW strips to a solar power bank with a PIR? If so, with Google assistant?
Any and all help will be appreciated. Many thanks
Well... anything is possible! I think the challenge here will be the battery power... even with a solar charger. Both the WLED controller and PIR board will constantly draw power, even when the lights are off. You could move up to an ESP32 and use deep sleep to save battery, but the wake-up time (and time to connect to wifi) would make the motion-detection portion nearly useless. I tried the battery concept for small strip of LEDs in a closet (maybe 20 pixels) and the battery/power bank drained in two days, even with limited closet openings.
Google integration is possible if using Home Assistant. There may be other ways. WLED natively supports Amazon Alexa.
I did something similar but for a pantry and I ran the LEDs around the inside of the molding of the door frame so it lit the pantry from top to bottom with a single LED string just cool white and a simple motion sensor so that at the door open the lights came on
I tried to add closet lights, similar to you, with the same basic controller and a door sensor. My issue was that I didn't have ready access to AC power, so I tried to run the system off of a battery pack. The batteries just didn't hold up long enough to make it worthwhile. I would need to use an ESP32 and deep sleep, but I've already experienced significant delay when doing that, because it takes time for the ESP to wake up, connect to wifi and then turn on the lights. It just wasn't feasible in my case. But I'd still like to do something like you've done with the pantry... but with AC power, it's a challenge to make it responsive enough.
Hi, thank you for the video. I am new for this, I was confused on the diagram system configuration. How is the two sensors (up and down stair) communicated with the WLED controller. Best regards, TC
The motion detectors, and the WLED controller, are integrated into Home Assistant. Home Assistant takes the change in the motion detector and turns the LEDs on or off, and sets the proper effect up or down depending on which motion detector fired. This particular system will not work without Home Assistant.
However, if you are not a Home Assistant user, I did create another version (that has a few less features and effects, but works basically just the same). This version works 'standalone' and does not require Home Assistant or any other external system. You can see a video of that system here: ruclips.net/video/b4s_VEtVWY4/видео.html
@@ResinChemTech Thank you so much for quick response. Can you post your video about the Home Assistant ? Thanks a lot for your help.
While I utilize Home Assistant in a lot of my video projects, I don't have a video specifically on setting up and using Home Assistant. But there are a ton of videos on RUclips about the subject... just search "Home Assistant". I do have a little more information on the automations I use in Home Assistant in my related blog article... and copies of my Home Assistant automation code can be found in the related Github repo (links to both are in the video description of this video). However, this is just the automation code used in Home Assistant... not information on how to install and setup Home Assistant itself.
Home Assistant is a great home automation platform that allows you to bring thousands of devices together under one application and create nice dashboards, create advanced automations, etc. However, it isn't necessarily a quick and easy undertaking. If you have other smart devices, then Home Assistant might be a good choice. But I don't think I'd install Home Assistant just for these stair lights. In that case, you'd be better off with the standalone version that I shared in my previous comment.
Hi sir what are the details to do this and materials, happy to know , thank you
There are additional details in the video description, and you can find a step by step guide, along with the full parts list in the related blog article: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2021/07/simple-motion-activated-led-stair.html
You should build the system and sell it if you do please let me know
Any insight on the plans to build the 3D enclosures? I have a 3D printer abc have no idea how to build from scratch. Im happy to donate and your stairs are awesome sir!
Thanks! I've thrown my designs that I used up on Thingiverse for you:
PIR Sensor Enclosures: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4969716
Electrocookie Enclosures (full and mini): www.thingiverse.com/thing:4969733
Note that depending on your stairs and orientation, you may have to modify the "vanes" and which direction they are blocking motion on the PIR sensor enclosure. But this might work as a starting point and you can edit in Tinkercad or other 3D modeling software. Hope this helps!
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You are a gentleman and a scholar sir!