You are very welcome and I'm glad you are enjoying them... despite their length! I do try to include the "why" as well as the "how" in my videos with the hope that someone can take the concepts and adapt them to their own needs. But this does tend to make for longer videos. Thanks for watching... and thanks for the comment and feedback.
Just built my first LED controller using this video as a guide! Your videos have gotten me interested in DIY home automation and LED lighting. The clear and thorough explanations of your processes are so helpful. Keep up the great videos. I always look forward to your next project.
Thanks for the kind words... and congrats on building your first LED controller! Be forewarned... it can be a bit addictive! Once you start down that path of DIY electronics and home automation, it can kind of grab a hold of you! Don't hesitate to reach back out if I can help out with your LED or home automation journey somewhere down the road.
The level of detail in this video is perfect for me. This is all new to me and I am able to follow along and understand. Additionally, your blog provides excellent detail. Love the pictures and step by step instructions.
Thanks. It was new to all of us at some point! I always try to find the balance between a quick overview that leaves the viewer with a lot of incomplete information that they have to research vs. an overly long video that no one wants to watch! And thanks for noting the blog. I try to always include a related blog with any parts used, wiring diagrams, code snippets or more detail if needed so that you don't need to go back and try to 'freeze' the video to see those parts. Welcome to the channel! Don't hesitate to reach out if I can assist you in any of your own projects.
Thanks! It's good to get this sort of feedback, as I always debate on how much detail to include. I like to provide enough detail that someone can adapt the project to their own needs without having to do a lot of other research. But this can make for longer videos. I generally hope I can find a middle ground for most of my videos. Thanks again for watching and taking time to comment!
New to the channel. Video length and detail are great. Been wanting to wrap my house, like Christmas lights. Had found a project to build controllers to control 1000's of led's, but information is no longer available. Ty for what you do.
Thanks for the feedback! This particular project probably isn't the right one for controlling 1000's of LEDs... at least not without moving up to an ESP32 and using multiple pins for data output. According to the official WLED site in terms of numbers of LEDs ( kno.wled.ge/features/multi-strip/ ), you can get good performance of up to around 500 or so LEDs off of a single data pin. Using an ESP32 with multiple data pins, you can expect good performance up to around 4,000 LEDs.... and while very similar, that is a different build than the one I show here. I do have another video where I touch on this topic by comparing the ESP8266 to the ESP32 with WLED, if you want to see a little bit more as to what I'm talking about: ruclips.net/video/q1ghNUND6gk/видео.html Regardless, thanks for watching and welcome to the channel!
Thanks for the feedback. I've tried to continue to invest in things like better lighting, better cameras and microphones to make my more recent videos a little higher quality than some of these older ones, but I do continue to try to always include the "why" in my videos in addition to the "how"... even if that does make them a bit longer than most. Thanks for subscribing and welcome to the channel!
Thanks for this! I just printed your project box and built the same controller using this video. Now I have an awesome light setup in my 3d printer room!
Outstanding! But be forewarned... if this was your first LED project, it likely won't be your last! After I built my first one, it just kept going from there and now I have more than two dozen of those little controllers throughout my house with LEDs on all sorts of surfaces. Thanks for taking time to drop me a comment. I love hearing from my viewers that they successfully used one of my videos for their own projects. Congrats!
This and your other videos are simply Awesome! LOVE the length and in-depth nature. I have been searching for a cheaper and more robust alternative to Phillips Hue LED’s and this is it - Love the simplicity, yet thoroughness of the Home Assistant integration. Because of this and your light strip video, I’ve successfully built my own and have only just gotten started. I have some really cool projects planned. Also loved you stair video by the way. About to dig into you other videos as well. Obviously I’ve subscribed and clicked the bell so keep’um coming and thank you so much again!!!
Wow... thanks for the kind words and I'm glad you find the videos helpful. I actually have Philips Hue, but I had them well before I learned to build my own LED controllers... and before I was very deep into Home Assistant. If I had it to do over, I wouldn't spend the money on Hue... but they do work well and have been pretty reliable. Thanks for watching... and don't hesitate to reach out if you have any questions or just want to share your projects.
I find the length of the your videos to be just fine. I appreciate the greater detail provided in a longer video as I am just starting out witrh LED lighting. Shorter videos feel like far to abbreviated for my taste. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the feedback! Like you, I would occasionally get frustrated that some project videos were so short and missed so many details, it left me with a lot to figure out on my own. So, I do try to provide enough information that that someone should be able to adapt my project for their own needs. And now I always try to provide chapter links in the timeline and video description for those that really don't want to watch all the details. I appreciate the kind words and that you took the time to post a comment. Thanks again!
Great video! Have been trying to find this type of content to get into this small circuit boards. Definitely like this style where it's eastly to visualize. It's nice to have the diagrams to supplement as well! Great work! Keep the videos coming!
Thanks! I sometimes get concerned about the length of some of my videos, but most people who have commented say they prefer the longer, step-by-step how-to videos. It does take me some extra time, but I do like to try to provide a supplemental blog article with each video to provide things like wiring diagrams, code samples, etc. that I can't really make easily accessible via video. Thanks for watching and taking time to comment!
I've probably watched this video 7 more times and ordered through your Amazon links. I think something interesting to see would be using the bullet style led's from your Christmas tree video for external lighting application. Maybe instruction for waterproofing a transformer. I think getting those set up for a Christmas display with your style instruction would be a big hit!
I've had numerous people try to encourage me to do the whole outdoor, synchronized-to-music Christmas light show. I just haven't been motivated to do so and there is already a house in the neighborhood that does that. I haven't done any outdoor LEDs yet. This Spring I may add lights to our screened in porch, in which case, I'll use those bullet LED's and have to create a weatherproof version and/or enclosures for the power supply and controller. I'll be sure to make a video out of that process. Thanks for watching (all seven times!), and a huge thanks for the support by using the Amazon links. Feel free to shoot me any questions you might run into along the way with your LED projects.
I like the length and level of detail. And by all means monetize your videos. If RUclips is going to play ads anyway you should at least get a lil money 🤷🏼♂️. A lil closer look / more zoomed in shot would be nice at the key points when soldering. I love how tight and clean this setup is with the 3d printed housing
Thanks for the feedback! And yeah... back when I made this video and the "editorial comment", RUclips had just changed their terms. Prior to this, ads were never shown on my videos. But rest assured, that as soon as I was eligible, I did take advantage of the opportunity to at least be paid a few pennies on those ads! And as I've continued to make more videos, both my equipment and editing techniques have gotten better... including the ability to zoom in for better views in some instances. I was a bit limited when first creating videos based both on the camera and my own abilities! Thanks so much for watching, the kind comments and the feedback. I do appreciate it!
Thanks for the feedback. I continue to tweak things to try to make my videos better and more informative, and I do take the feedback into account. And thanks for subscribing! Let me know if you implement any of my projects... and of course if you have any questions along the way.
Thanks... I'm glad you find them helpful! I'm never sure how much detail to cover vs. length of video, but I always appreciate the feedback. Thanks for watching and taking time to comment! I appreciate it.
Wow late to the party given you made the video about 2 years ago. Great information here. Would be awesome if you could add in another video how to integrate one of the controllers to power a 24V COB LED strip. Thanks.
Yeah... this is definitely one of my older videos, which is apparent by the poor video and audio quality... made before I invested in better equipment. I do talk about powering 12V and 24V LEDs along with this controller in a number of other videos, including this one on common LED questions: ruclips.net/video/GZv5Ztj6i6I/видео.html I also have a blog article that really isn't a "how-to" but more of a list of common LED controller wiring diagrams and it also covers wiring and use of this controller with higher voltage LED strips: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2023/01/wiring-diagrams.html Don't know if you might find either one of those helpful.
Thanks for the feedback. In my more recent videos, I'm trying to show a quick highlight overview of the finished project (for those that want a quick look) and then follow that with the full step-by-step process for those that want to hang around and see the complete project. Thanks for watching and taking time to provide your feedback. I does help determine how I make future videos.
fantastic video ,the best tutorial for getting started on these kind of projects .thank you for taking the time to produce it in sutch a full and rounded fashion. regards paul
Thanks! I try to make the kinds of videos that I wanted to watch when first starting out. Enough details that I could recreate a project, with at least a little explanation as to why something was being done, so that I could maybe learn a thing or two and adapt it to my own project. I really appreciate you taking time to comment!
Great work on the video! Would love to see more start to finish videos like this! Obviously interested in what else youve got going on in your smart home!
I do have a 30 minute walkthrough video that highlights the other smart "stuff" in my home (ruclips.net/video/sHbZjLbX7uk/видео.html). Of course, I'm always adding new stuff, so even though I did this video in December, there are probably at least a dozen or more new things. At some point, I'll try to do an update or "what's new in my home" video.
Yeah... last time I checked, the latest version of WLED has default support for up to two connected buttons. Each button can have three different functions... single press, double-press and long press. In addition, you can add an IR receiver and use an IR remote to do even more.
@@ResinChemTech can you use those cheap ones that come with every light set 😏. Actually I want to be able to use they lights with my DMX setup maybe even be able to run wled through lightkey as a phantom fixture.
I think if you can capture the IR codes, probably. I discuss and show connecting a remote to a WLED controller in my video on Hexagonal LED panels (aka Nano Leafs): ruclips.net/video/lNcsT5DZjAM/видео.html and a bit more about it in my second live stream on using buttons and remotes with WLED. And more information on using a remote can be found on the official WLED web site ( kno.wled.ge/interfaces/infrared/ ).
Thank you for explaining the alternative to the logic level shifter. I end up with a bunch of short strips and it comes in handy. I also have a bag of 100 neopixels that I got for 3 dollars on sale, you can use that led in the same way if you don’t want to cut the strip.
You're welcome! As with most smart home tech and DIY electronics, there are a lot of ways to accomplish the same outcome. I usually just use the logic level shifter because I have a whole container of them (bought in bulk when on sale).. and I like to have a self-contained controller that can just plug into any existing light strip. I always have a few "pre-built" controllers laying around. I usually use these to test new versions of WLED before deploying to my other installs. Good luck on your projects. Thanks for watching and taking time to comment!
I actually have used an ESP32 with sound-reactive WLED. In my floor lamp video, at the final version, in the background, I have an ESP32 with SR WLED installed in the entertainment center. Next I want to try the multi-strip control using a single controller, which is now available in the latest version of WLED. I may do a comparison of using an ESP8266 vs. ESP32 to see the performance differences.
Thanks... yeah, I threw that editorial in there because, at the time, RUclips had just changed their terms so that they reserved the right to serve ads on "any" video whether you were monetized or not. I was pretty ticked off about it at the time, as I felt the one thing my videos could offer were no annoying ads. And before this change, that was true... no ads at the start, no ads in the middle of the video, etc. Then all of a sudden... ads on all my videos! So, when I did become eligible to monetize, I figured if there were going to be ads anyway, I might as well get a little tiny piece of that instead of letting RUclips keep it all! One somewhat nice thing (today at least) is that I can control the number and timing of any "mid-roll" ads that play in the middle of the video. I try to use those sparingly. My rule of thumb is no mid-roll ads for any videos shorter than 10 minutes. Then no more than one per every 10 minutes for longer videos. I really dislike channels that run ads every 2-3 minutes, as this is in their control and just seems like a 'money grab' to me... but that's just my opinion. And of course RUclips could always change this at some point as well and force mid-roll ads. I hope not! If you are shooting for monetization... hang in there and keep making videos. You'll get there. For me, I had a video that had been out there a while (my stair video) and was just doing "OK". Then for some reason (still unknown to me), it exploded literally overnight. I was estimating it was going to take another 6 months to reach the threshold for monetization then suddenly in two days I had blown past both the number of subscribers and watch hours. So.. try to have some patience knowing that RUclips is serving ads on your videos and you aren't getting a piece of it (yet). Thanks for watching and taking time to leave a comment!
You could certainly do that! You could just replace the button with something like a magnetic reed switch. Just be aware of which GPIO pin you select for the reed switch if it is a normally-closed switch. If you used the same pin as I showed here with a normally-closed switch, the board would fail to boot up. I talk a bit more about using buttons with WLED and this controller in my livestream on using buttons and remotes with WLED ( ruclips.net/video/Rwzrmjc5pf8/видео.html ). The part about buttons starts around the 6-7 minute mark. As an alternative and to avoid the wires running from the door frame to the controller (and assuming you are using Home Assistant or some other automation platform), is to use something like a wireless/Zigbee door or window sensor on the cabinet door and have automation turn the LED lights on/off when the cabinet door opens or closes. This is just one other alternate way. Like most DIY projects, there are many ways to accomplish the same task! Good luck with your project. Don't hesitate to reach back out if you have questions or run into any problem!
Great video! Love the detail and length of vid! I tried reading through all the comments to make sure I wasn't going to ask something that you have already answered. I want to use this in an automotive application. If I'm understanding correctly I only need the wifi when changing color/sequences correct? If so is there another way to be able to use the controller away from wifi? Again thank you for videos and all the information you share!
Thanks! As far as operating the system without wifi, you have a couple of options. First, if the controller isn't joined to wifi, it will broadcast its own hotspot (WLED-AP I believe). You can connect to this hotspot with your phone then enter 4.3.2.1 in a browser. This will give you an option to go straight to the controls (skipping the wifi onboarding). You will then have full access to the settings, colors, effects, etc. and can control the LEDs with your phone in the car. The other option is to add one or two push buttons (the later versions of WLED, released after this video, adds an option for a second button). You can then define what you want those buttons to do... off/on, change colors or effects, start a playlist, etc. In this case, the control is completely local and you wouldn't need an external device at all (after you get all the configuration set up first). So those are at least two different options for controlling the LEDs when wifi is not present. Hope that helps. And thanks for the feedback on video length.
@@ResinChemTech thank you very much! I really appreciate you taking the time to respond not only to me but ask those who leave you a comment or question!
You are welcome! While most of my installs are to "prettify", I do have some practical installs as well. The wife loves the kitchen under cabinet lighting that I added (well.. when on solid white). I also added under cabinet lighting for my garage workbench and under the hutch of my desk in my office. The nice thing is that not only can they provide nice task lighting, all those WLED effects are there and available if needed or wanted to "prettify".
Great Video, I also like the 30 min format. Can you tell me what soldering station that you used? It seems to work very well. Did you add heat shrink tubing to the alligator clips? Thanks...
Thanks... and thanks for the feedback. Are you referring to the helping hands station? If so, this is what I use: amzn.to/3HXA44x The alligator clips came with the protective coating. I like this station, but if I had a complaint, it seems that the small set screws that hold the alligator clips in place tend to work loose from time to time. No big deal, but I wanted to mention it. The stand that holds the soldering iron is this one: amzn.to/3Dyrh6p but it is currently shown as unavailable (I'm sure something very similar could be located). Finally, the soldering iron I'm using (and love... but unfortunately is also discontinued) is: amzn.to/3RlmXgt Thanks for watching. Let me know if you have any additional questions!
Why not mount the button in the enclosure too? Less wires coming out and a cleaner looking project. Also add a barrel power connector female in the enclosure. So you just plugin the power and go.Could also use a single pin test port for the data wire. Just some thoughts! Cool little project to get rid of the bulkier boxes needed.
Thanks for the ideas. Actually, I have used different variations depending upon the install. For the button, I often like to hide away both the controller and power supply so that they are out of sight. So I run the button to an accessible location instead of mounting in/to the control box. I also use the barrel connector... especially with larger installs/higher amps. I also use things like mesh sleeve to keep wiring neat where it is going to be exposed. I guess there are a lot of different ways to modify the project, but for me, it often depends on the particular install situation. Thanks again for the comment.
I’m grateful for all of your videos. I’m in the middle of trying to build a controller but using the ESP32-DEVKIT-V1. I sure wish I would have used the “Mini” for this but already started down this road. I’m not sure which pins to use with my particular ESP32? Can you help direct me in how to use this setup?
The ESP32 (and the latest versions of WLED) can use most pins... and you just specify the pin used in the WLED settings. However, the default data pin for the ESP32 and WLED is GPIO16. I also just recently published a blog article with various different wiring diagrams for this same LED controller... including using the ESP32 (although it is the ESP32 mini, the same wiring/pins would apply to the full size ESP32 boards): resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2023/01/wiring-diagrams.html I hope that helps. Let me know if you have any additional questions.
Thanks! The two enclosure designs are for the ElectroCookie mini and full size boards... regardless of whether an ESP8266 or ESP32 are used. For the "full size" NodeMCU style, both the ESP8266 and ESP32 will comfortably fit on the full size ElectroCookie version. For the "mini" versions, the ESP32 mini just barely fits on the mini ElectroCookie board and its use will be dependent upon the use of other components and your wiring needs. Regardless, you can find the designs for both the mini and full size ElectroCookie boards here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4969733
Thanks! I guess you are referring to the logic level shifter? I do cover it in a little more detail in this video: ruclips.net/video/Q9mLitVxF3c/видео.html But it really is a pretty simple device. You just feed a low voltage (3.3V) and ground to the LV and GND pins on one side. You then feed a high voltage (5V) and ground to the HV and GND pins on the other side. You can then feed your 3.3V data signal into any of the LV1 - LV4 pins on one side, and then get the 5V shifted signal out to the corresponding HV1 - HV4 pin on the other side. That's really all there is to the simple little device. If you have more than one signal, you can use a second (or even a third and fourth) pin to shift those data signal lines as well. Thanks for watching. Don't hesitate to reach back out if you have any additional questions!
It's pretty simple. Just hook the button up to ground and a GPIO pin (GPIO0 is the default for ESP8266/GPIO17 for ESP32). That's it. If you use different pins, define the pin you used in WLED settings. You can also change the default behaviors of the button (single, double, long press) within the WLED settings.
You are most welcome. These are the helping hands I am using. I like them except for the thumb screws that hold the alligator clips in place will occasionally work loose. Other than that, I don't have any complaints: amzn.to/45ECwFj
I like the longer videos myself. I think I'm a little lost. If I'm understanding right the shifter is connected to the d1 mini on high and low side but lights power from the d1 mini rail and data is the only connection passing through the shifter to the lights?. I know you've started leaning towards to esp32 but still like the compaction of the d1 mini so I ordered some d1 minis, cookie board and shifters to use for educational purposes and small projects with 1m ws2812b.
One very important correction, and it is something I learned after making this video and I cover it in the related blog article and other later LED videos. Do not run the 5V power for your LEDs through the ElectroCookie board if you have anything more than just a few pixels. The ElectroCookie board is not rated for the amps that more than a few LEDs will draw. Instead, you'll want to split the 5V and ground coming off your power supply. Run one 5V/gnd lead to the ElectroCookie to power the ESP and the shifter, then run a separate dedicated 5V and gnd directly to the LED strip. But otherwise, you are correct. It is just the data line that will run through the shifter... to shift the outgoing 3.3V signal from the GPIO pin of the ESP up to 5V for running to the data line of the LED strip. I'd recommend taking a glance at the related blog ( resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2021/01/building-your-own-led-light-strip.html ) and scroll down where I talk about larger LED installations to see what I am referring to. Again, earlier in this blog, I show running the power for the LEDs through the board... but this should not be done if you have more than 10-15 pixels.
Thanks! Most of the time, I just use a little liquid no clean flux in a pen. Here's a link for where I get it: amzn.to/3Jb4QpL Hope that helps! I do also have a blog article (and a similar video) where I list all of my favorite and most commonly used items for my projects, including the above flux pen: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2022/04/my-favorite-items.html
Thanks for this! I have a question though: does the LED-animation remember the last setting once you power it on? I’d like to use it in a pinball machine and connect it to a flasher on the playfield so that when the flasher fires, the LED-strip fires with the correct animation.
It does remember the last setting, as long as power is not lost or the boot reboots. However even then you can save the current state (e.g. color, effect, brightness, etc) to a preset and tell WLED to load that preset whenever the board first powers up or reboots. So, yes, I think it can do what you are you are asking.
Great Video and you make it look so simple I am tempted to give it a try . Will you be doing a simular video where you add in the ethernet connector to give greater stability . Thanks
Thank you... I try to make my videos as easy to understand and follow as I can, with the goal of showing how to do it yourself or to give you ideas on how you might adapt the idea for your own projects. This really is a pretty simple project to get your feet wet with DIY projects and custom, local firmware. Along those lines, I probably won't do anything with the controller in this video to add ethernet. If you are interested in something with an ethernet hat, you might take a look at the pre-built controller versions by Quindor over at Quinled. He offers multiple WLED controller options, including one with an ethernet connection: quinled.info/pre-assembled-quinled-dig-uno/ (If you go to either his store front, or Dr. Zzzs if in the US, you can see the options to add an ethernet hat). I simply don't have a need to do that as I don't have any ethernet connections available without making substantial wiring runs... and then having to try to hide that wiring.
First, let me say Thank you so much for answering my questions on LED strips. I have another question. I read your blog where you comment on the use of 12v strips. I have a rather long outside wall (~100 ft) and am considering lighting it. Thank you for the link to the step down buck converter for powering controllers off a 12v power supply. My question is whether the data line from the controller to the 12v strip has to be stepped up from the 3v to 12v and if so, do you have a 12v logic level shifter you recommend and can provide a link to? Additionally, have you run into a limit on how far one can run the data line (5v and 2v) before voltage drop renders it problematic?
First, you are welcome an I'm glad my answers (and videos) have been helpful. As to your current question: The data signal is always 5V, regardless of whether the LED strips themselves are powered by 5V or 12V. So, the same logic level shifter to shift the data from 3.3V to 5V will work with either voltage of LED strips. I should make another comment about 12V LED strips, and this may or may not matter to you depending upon your particular project. With 5V strips, each individual LED is controllable. In other words, the first LED could be red, the second LED blue and the third LED green. But with most 12V LEDs (like WS2811), the LEDs are only addressable in groups of 3. Using the above example, this means LEDs 1-3 would be red, LEDs 4-6 would be blue and LEDs 7-9 would be green. For something just like ambient lighting, you probably won't notice it. But it will be apparent with some WLED effects... as it has to treat each group of three LEDs "as one" in terms of the effects. As far as maximum length of the data line between the controller and LED strip, if you are using the logic level shifter, I really can't say but it will be multiple feet. I have one install where I have at least 15 feet between the controller and the start of the LEDs, and with the shifter, I don't have a problem. Using larger gauge wire can also help reduce the voltage drop for these longer runs. I would definitely bench test it first before installing though, using the amount of wire for the data run you expect in the final install. For especially long runs... or if you have a problem, you could wire in a sacrificial pixel (or two if needed) along the line to boost the signal. Or you could purchase and install a special booster. Quindor over at QuinLED actually sells a prebuilt one: quinled.info/quinled-data-booster-for-sale/ But it would have to be a really long run before you'd need something like this and I'd probably just wire in sacrificial pixel along the way if needed. I don't have any real world testing, but I'm guessing you could easily run 20-30 feet with the use of a single sacrificial pixel at about the midpoint of the run (and WLED does have the option to skip the first pixel so that this one would not light up). Sorry for the length, but hopefully I've given you some useful information for your questions.
Again, great tutorial. Question though, since I primarily use 12V LED strips I should be able to put in a LM7805 from a 12V power source and use the 12V leg to power the lights and the 5V leg to supply to the controller, correct?
Yep... that is correct. You can use a single 12V power source, as long as you step down the voltage to 5V for the controller (using whatever method works...LM7805, stepdown buck converter, etc.). Just assure any components used are rated to handle the current load. LEDs can draw a surprising amount of current, especially with larger installs and a higher number of pixels. On the 5V side, this shouldn't be a problem for the controller as it won't draw more than about 0.5A at most. But on the 12V LED side, a high amount of current could be needed to fully light all the LEDs. For 5V WS2812b LEDs, I use an estimated 0.06A per pixel. So, a 300 LED strip of lights could pull as much as 18A on full bright white. Get the rating for your 12V strip and multiple the max draw per pixel times the number of LEDs planned... and assure both the power supply and any components (and wiring) used on the power side are rated appropriately. Thanks for watching! Let me know if you have any additional questions.
Is there any way you might consider updating this project and all of the accompanying diagrams to include a digital mic and esp32 (both mini and full size wroom for comparison.) Also, I'm a little confused about whether to run power from a 60amp external power supply thru this circuit. I was under the impression that "no, don't do it. the electrocookie will melt" but your diagrams show exactly that: running an external power supply right into the circuit. So what's the truth? (PS. I fully admit that there are some basic aspects to electricity and electronic projects that I still don't 100% grok. For instance, the metaphorical comparison between amperage and water pressure doesn't make a ton of sense to me..)
Yes... that video is almost 3 years old a bit dated at this point. I have done a significant number of other newer LED-related videos that show both updated diagrams and talk about proper power routing. You _can_ run through the ElectroCookie for a smaller number of LEDs... and a slightly more if you bridge the traces with higher gauge wire. Please refer to this video as one of many with updated information: ruclips.net/video/GZv5Ztj6i6I/видео.html I also have a wiring diagram written guide that covers various wiring options and power runs for LED controllers: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2023/01/wiring-diagrams.html Finally, I am currently working on a new video and written guide for wiring and configuring different peripherals to a WLED controller, including a digital INMP441. But in the interim, I show how to wire this mic in both my LED curtain video and related blog article.
Do you have a similart video but using an ESP32? I am having a bunch of connection issues with these now (althought I hear it may be related to wifi mesh I am using). But I wanted to try a ESP32 in place of the D1 mini ESP8266.
I don't have a full video, but the wiring is really identical, using the 5V, 3.3V and GND pins on the ESP32. The only real difference (other than the pins being in different locations) is that the default LED data pin for the ESP32 is GPIO16 instead of the D4/GPIO2 on the ESP8266. Even then, there are other GPIO pins you can now use with WLED... you just tell it in the setup which pin you are using. While I don't have a video, I do have at least one example of wiring up an ESP32 mini and you can find that here: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2023/01/wiring-diagrams.html But in essence, the process for the ESP32 and ESP8266 are identical. It's just that the pins for 5V, 3.3V and GND are in different spots depending on the exact board you are using, and the default LED data line for the ESP32 is GPIO16 instead of GPIO2. Otherwise, all the wiring, flashing and general use are identical between the two different ESP types. Hope that helps... let me know if you have any additional questions.
Hello I love your staircase lights I want to do the same but I'm confused on how you upload the software on the D1 Mini what did you use to upload it with because I do not have a computer .. I want my staircase lights to do all the functions yours does ... also if I paid extra do you like make like the entire kit to sell already pre done so I have to do is install it and hook it up
Thanks! Well, I have two different staircase videos, but I think the one you are referring to requires home automation software called Home Assistant to be running on a computer in your house. I have another video on a standalone stair system that doesn't require Home Assistant (but has fewer features), however both do require a computer to upload the software to the D1 Minis. If you look in the video description for either one of these videos, you will find a link to a written version of the project that includes information on how to load (or flash) the software onto the D1 Minis. Unfortunately, I'm not able to sell kits for this project. Each individual install would be unique to the length of a particular set of stairs, where power outlets are located, how the motion detectors should be mounted, etc. Plus, to be honest, trying to box and ship those long aluminum channels would make the whole thing too cost-prohibitive. I'm happy to answer any questions to help you build your own, but unfortunately I'm not set up to build and sell them myself.
Perfectly detailed! I'm just getting into this. I feel like I'm late to the LED game, but I did like you mentioned at the beginning and just used the remote controlled versions. My first need is for a few shorter strips as highlights and maybe triggered notifications through home assistant or the like. If I use an ESP32 with a 2 or 2.5 amp USB power to the ESP, how many LED's (WS2812B) can I run without needing extra power?
Well, you need to allow for 0.06 A per LED pixel for full bright white. Less brightness and/or other colors will use less... but you should always allow for the maximum. And I always allow around 500 mA for the controller itself. So, with a 2.5 amp USB that would mean only around 33 pixels (2A / 0.06)... and around 25 for a 2A USB (1.5A / 0.06). Now do NOT try to power the LEDs directly off the 5V and ground pins of the ESP board. The board is not designed to handle much current (rule of thumb is no more than ~500 mA) and you will likely damage or destroy the board trying to do so. Ideally, you should always run power in parallel.. one run to the LED strips and a separate run to the LEDs. But with s small number of LEDs (say < 30), you can probably run the power through something like the ElectroCookie board... but parallel power runs are always the best... and safest... option. You might take a look at a recent blog article that I did, especially the section under "Connecting and Powering LED strips": resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2023/01/wiring-diagrams.html This particular video is one of the earlier ones that I did (I've done a lot more since then) and I have also learned since then that it always better to run your power in parallel.... but you can run through a protoboard for a very small number of LEDs. I also just recently did a video on creating a WLED controller on a breadboard in 15 minutes.... and I also discuss power and how to run the power in that video: ruclips.net/video/dXLOqGa-n5A/видео.html - I do recommend a soldered version, but the power calculations and connections are the same for either type. Good luck and please let me know if you have any additional questions.
@@ResinChemTech More than plenty. Thank you. The controller will be mounted within a couple inches of the ESP32. Do you think that the logic level converter is necessary if I turn off the first LED? I never even realized that was necessary, and nobody ever seems to mention it in their videos. But I noticed a lot do turn off the first LED, and that may be why. They're using it as the level converter.
While I always use and recommend a logic level shifter to assure a good data signal, you can probably get away without one if you keep the controller close to the LED strip. A single pixel can be used as a shifter (since a pixel boosts the signal to 5 V just like the shifter). But you would normally cut off a pixel, solder it in close to the controller and then that allows you to have the rest of the LED strip further away from the controller. Unless you are "sacrificing" a pixel in this manner, there is no reason to turn off the first pixel if it is still part of the the strip... it does nothing for you. People often skip the first pixel because it is "standalone" near the controller and detached from the rest of the strip and they don't want that stray pixel to be lit. Ultimately the decision to use a shifter is yours. But I've had numerous people contact me with misbehaving LEDs (flickering, wrong colors, not showing the right pattern, etc.) and these issues are almost always solved by adding the shifter. For me, it is easier to just add the shifter during the build, than waiting for a problem to occur and then trying to go back and add a shifter after the project is done and installed. At least be sure to do a full bench test before final installation if you do opt to omit the shifter. If you want to see what can happen when a signal isn't boosted, you can watch my video that talks about the shifter and whether you really need it or not: ruclips.net/video/Q9mLitVxF3c/видео.html
@@ResinChemTech Added to my queue and ordered some logic level shifters! Thanks for all the help! I feel dumb when it comes tot his, but like many, I invested in the commercial side rather than building my own! Not any more!
Ha... just be forewarned! Once you build your first one, it likely won't be your last! I have somewhere close to 30 different LED installs now. The nice part is no cloud service, no questionable manufacturer's apps on your phone collecting your data, etc. etc. Not to mention it is significantly cheaper to build your own! And don't ever feel dumb! We all start out somewhere. In fact, I made mistakes in this very video that I learned about later (like trying to run high current through the board instead of running power in parallel). And I've fried more than my fair share of components (ESP boards, potentiometers, etc. - they call it Ohm's LAW for a reason... and not Ohm's Suggestion... a fact I've learned on numerous occasions!). But that's all part of the learning process... and luckily the parts and components are usually relatively cheap. But there are many folks, myself included, that do these videos, posts, etc. mainly to try to help others. So please don't hesitate to reach back out if you run into any other questions along the way.
When I built a WLED controller with an ESP32, I found that I could not use the MOSFET based level shifters like the one shown in this video. I'm assuming they weren't fast enough, I did have what looked like an appropriate signal when I tested it with an oscilloscope but never got the lights to work. I ended up going with a TXS0108E based level shifter and haven't had a single problem with it, but 8 channels is a little overkill when I'm only using one.
I've had others mention the same issue, particularly in the video where I specifically shows what can happen when you opt to skip the shifter altogether. I personally have not had a problem with this shifter, but granted that most of my WLED installs use ESP8266... but I do have a couple that are ESP32. I think the problem might be more pronounced with larger numbers of pixels? I do have an ESP32 with that shifter driving 800+ pixels on my back porch and haven't seen an issue... but I haven't really looked closely to see if there is any jitter in any of the animations, as these lights are generally just a single solid color. But based on what I've read and heard from others, there very well could be an issue with speed, especially if you are using a large number of pixels and are looking for very smooth animation effects. Regardless of which shifter you select, I still maintain it is better to use a shifter and boost the data signal to 5V than to omit it altogether... although I fully understand that it is possible to skip the shifter if you keep the data run short (or use a sacrificial pixel). But I'd rather always err on the side of caution and assure a good signal, and not have to worry about the length of that data run (well, within reason anyway). But I appreciate you sharing your results. I am not enough of an expert to say why this shifter might work in some situations but not in others. I just haven't had an issue with any of my two dozen or so WLED installs... but I might see the problem in a future install... who can say?
@@ResinChemTechI think it might have to do with who made the MOSFET based shifters, I suspect I might have had better luck with the Afafruit or SparkFun version of the shifter than the cheaper ones I bought on Amazon. I know there are resistors and capacitors that affect how fast the MOSFETs can switch the signal, so it's possible that different manufacturers use different values for those parts. If I remember correctly, I ended up using the TXS0108E because Afafruit recommended either that specific part or an equivalent one that I couldn't find at the time.
Absolutely a possibility! I've sure had my share of 'sub-standard' components that didn't work (ESP boards that wouldn't flash, etc.) If I find something that works, I generally try to stick with that same manufacturer/seller even if the component costs a bit more... and everything I recommend or link to in my videos/blogs are the components that I actually used (unless discontinued... then I try to find the best equivalent). But even past success doesn't mean you won't get a bad lot of components from the same seller at some point. I do appreciate you sharing your experiences. It might help someone else (or me!) at some point down the road if I have an install that doesn't seem to want to work. And thanks for the follow up.
You say in your blogpost: 'you may want to consider adding a 1000 μF (microfarad) capacitor on the incoming 5V power line'. Where would you connect this using a single Wemos D1 mini?
As I think I mentioned, the capacitor is optional and is meant to protect either the controller and/or LED strip from power surges... most likely when plugging in the power supply. I used to include them in my projects, but rarely do anymore and I haven't had any issues. However, if you do want to add the capacitor, you want to add it "upline" as close to the power supply as you can. If you are using a 'transformer style' power supply with screw terminals, you can add it there (just be sure to observe the (+) and (-) legs on the capacitor. If you are splitting your 5V line to make parallel runs to the controller and LED strip, you can insert the capacitor there. Finally, if you are only looking to add it to only the controller, you can install it across the +5V and GND connections where the lines are incoming to your controller board. But the controller will function just fine if you opt not to include it. Its true intent is to just 'smooth out' the power feeding to the controller.
@ResinChem Tech what are those 4 rubber feet things youre using to mount the electrocookie board to around the 11:42 minute mark called? I would like to purchase some.
I think you are referring to the helping hands? This is the one I used and shown in the video: amzn.to/3VIk9ww If that's not what you are referring to, please let me know.
Do you mean something like having the LEDs 'dance' to music? If so, you can attach a microphone to the controller and use the sound reactive version of WLED. I've done a few videos with the sound-reactive version. You can find them listed in this playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLqjDNeOVHOkf079FYwRLRoOHJwLijKkP3
FYI: If you are running a Mac then the Web installer seems to fail. As I am not pooter tech savvy there is a simple solution no doubt. I tried the install today and I kept getting cannot initialize error. It could very well be my OS. Mac is older and can't run the latest OS. The Web updater will not work in Firefox either. Needs to be Edge or Chrome. Once I popped over to an MS Winblows pooter it updated just fine (after a driver install). Just a heads up.
Thanks for the heads-up. I'm not a Mac guy, nor do I even own one, so I haven't run into this problem. Probably something that should be reported to the WLED developers (I have nothing to do with the WLED firmware, although I think it is already known and the tech used to flash via the web does, in fact, require Chrome or Edge). But for future reference, you can always download the .bin file from the Github repo for WLED and use a Mac-compatible flashing application to flash the .bin onto your ESP board. No, it's quite as automatic and easy as using the web installer, but this is how WLED (and other similar firmware) was installed before the web version was available. And a lot of other firmware (like most of mine that I use for other projects) do not have a web installer, so the download and local flashing is the only way to install the firmware. So, it's not a bad idea to have a local flashing application and be familiar with using it anyway. But I do appreciate you sharing your experience. It may help others that use a Mac.
You can skip the shifter if you keep the controller close to the start of the LEDs... but if you try to power any more than just a few pixels via the 5V pin of the D1 Mini, you will very likely destroy it. The D1 Mini (or any ESP board) is not designed to handle the high current required by LEDs The rule of thumb is no more than about 500 mA of current. Since normal RGB LEDs can pull up to around 60 mA per pixel, you could only run about 8 pixels safely. Anything higher than that might work for a short time, but will likely fry the ESP. I talk about this in a number of blog articles but also cover the proper way to power both your ESP and the LEDs in my recent video on building an LED controller without soldering (but the same concepts apply to this soldered version): ruclips.net/video/dXLOqGa-n5A/видео.html I've helped a number of people who have fried multiple ESP boards before they understood that the current draw from the LEDs are too high to pass through the ESP board when they try to power the LEDs from the board's 5V pin.
Neither. Unless you are only using a few pixels, you should power the LEDs directly from the power supply. Split your 5V power leads (+5 and GND) and run one set to the controller board and the other set directly to the LED strip. Neither the ESP board nor a breadboard/ElecroCookie board are designed for the amps that will be needed to power anything more than a few pixels. Please see my related blog article that have wiring diagrams for all of this and should answer most of your questions: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2021/01/building-your-own-led-light-strip.html
These types of videos are the best, Thanks, I'm trying to install WLED on esp32, but after selecting Install WLED, it says, Failed to initialise, Try resetting the device or holding the BOOT button while clicking INSTALL, but nothing changing, any advice, thank you
Failed to initialize usually means that it cannot connect or 'talk' to the ESP board. This could be for a number of reason. First off, have you previously flashed any other ESP32 (with any type of firmware) on the same computer? If not, you might not have the right driver installed. Assuming you are using Windows, after you connect the ESP32 to the USB port, check device manager. You should see a new COM port appear and it should be listed as something like "CP210x USB to UART" (ESP8266 will show as CH340). If you don't see something similar to this, then you may need to locate and install the driver for your machine... I've had to do this on two different machines, but one other machine already had the right driver installed. Next, assuming you have the right driver, assure the USB cable you are using to connect to the computer supports data and isn't just a power cord. Try a different USB cable if you have one. I've also had a few ESP32 boards that were difficult to get into flash mode. Try holding down the boot button down BEFORE plugging the device into USB and continue to hold the button down until the flash actually starts installing (connection is made), then you can release the button. It may take a few tries as it is easy to inadvertently release that tiny button without realizing it. Finally, if you have another board, you might try that. I had a 5 pack of ESP32s from a certain manufacturer and I never could get 2 out of those 5 to flash, no matter what I did. I no longer buy from that seller, and haven't had a problem since, but it is possible that you have a faulty or non-standard board. Those are my initial thoughts. Let me know what you find or if I can help any further.
The DigUno (and DigQuad) are great devices and are a simply plug-and-play solution that gets you up and running with WLED quickly and easily... when you can find them in stock. And while I have both, personally I enjoy the process... and much lower cost... of building my own controller. I've done so many now that I can build one from scratch in about 20 minutes. But I also enjoy the soldering and building my own stuff and I know that's not for everyone. In that case, the DigUno is a great option. Good luck with your project. If this is your first install with LED strips and WLED, I'm going to bet it won't be your last! They are pretty addictive, and after you install one, you'll starting looking for opportunities to install more.
I'm a little confused by the complexity of the circuit you have illustrated. I have put together my first D1 Mini based WLED strip this week. The LED strip has 5 wires. 5V, Gnd, Signal, additional 5V, and additional Gnd (latter 2 for feeding 5V at higher current into the strip). I fed 5V and Gnd from my regulated power supply into the two higher current wires and used the 5V, Gnd and Signal to power and provide signal to the strip (D4, G, 5V) using the existing JST-SM 3 Pin connector that came with the strip to connect direct to 3pins I soldered onto the board (needed to swap over signal and Gnd to align with the D1 Mini pin layout). I wanted to understand the benefit of all the extra wiring and components added into your circuit? What additional capabilities are delivered through your circuit vs the simplistic way I've gone about things (maybe naively)?
Well.. a few things to note here if I am understanding you correctly. First off, the "extra" wires (the addition 5V and ground) are provided should you need to do power injection for longer strip installs. The manufacturer just adds the extra wires at the start and end of each strip for convenience... they do not have to be used for shorter runs and you do not have to use both sets at the beginning. Power injection is needed due to voltage drop along the strip (each LED adds just a tiny bit of resistance, causing the voltage to drop. Eventually, it drops low enough that the LEDs do not have enough voltage to fully light). Connecting both sets of wires at the beginning of the strip really doesn't provide "extra current" (although technically it could help if you have large current and thin wiring). Next, if I have more than just a few pixels, I run the 5V power to the LEDs and controller in parallel. This is because the LEDs can pull a fair amount of current that adds up quickly (0.06A per LED for full bright white). The D1 Mini is only rated for a max throughput of around 500mA (about 8-9 LEDs). I don't have a rating on the ElectroCookie board, but based on the trace sizes, I would not want to run more than an amp or two through that board. That means if you are going to run more than around 15 or so LEDs, it is probably not a good idea for that power to pass through the board (and it will eventually fry the controller if you try to run it through the ESP board, using the 5V and GND pins there). By splitting the power run in parallel, the LEDs will draw current directly from the power supply. The only connection between the controller and LEDs is the data signal line (and a common ground... but that's at the power supply source). So, in short, neither the ElectroCookie board nor the ESP board are rating for handling the amps that are required for a larger number of LEDs. Can you get away with it? Maybe.. but you run the risk of either frying the ESP board and/or melting the ElectroCookie (and a resulting fire risk). Again, if you are only planning on a handful of pixels, you might be OK. But if you are going to run something like 200-300 LEDs, running the power through the board is a very bad idea. I hope that helps explain why I wire the installs the way I do. I have a related blog article that shows different wiring options for the LED controller, but there is also a section on sizing the power supply and creating parallel power connections that might be helpful: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2023/01/wiring-diagrams.html Of course, you are free to try it anyway you like. I used to do the same when first starting out. But experience (and helping a lot of others who couldn't understand why their install kept failing), has taught me that parallel power is the better and safer way to do it.
@@ResinChemTech Thanks for the explanation and link to your other content. It was a good read. I possibly didn't explain myself well in my earlier comment. I am in fact running the 5V in parallel. I'm running the a 5V regulated supply into what you refer to as the 'extra wires' and then leveraging the JST-SM 3 pin connector already fitted to the LED strip to connect 5V, GND and Signal into the D1 Mini via a 3 pin header. At no point am I expecting the D1 to 'supply' power into the LED strip. It is in fact power by the strip via the power fed into the 'extra wires' by my power supply. This gives me a very simple and clean install, with minimal wiring. I appreciate that the reasoning for the use of the logic level shifter is to uplift the 3.3V Signal to 5V for the LED strip, but this is ideally optional in the event that you are running a longer signal cable between your D1 Mini and the LED strip (i.e. more than 30cm/6 inches). Under that distance, a 3.3V signal has been reliable across a few strips that I been experimenting with. Most LED strips seem to have a very short cable (e.g. 7cm) with a JST-SM connector attached, which should be more than appropriate for a 3.3V signal without any noticeable voltage drop or reliability issues. My aim has been to make things as simple and small as possible. Have you found a 3.3V signal to be unreliable in your experience? If so, which LED strip did you use and how long was the distance between the D1 and the LED strip that resulted in the signal becoming unreliable and the need for the LLS? Thanks!
The use of the logic level shifter has been debated to death, here and elsewhere. Do you absolutely have to have it? No, not always... in many cases, with a short data line between the controller and LEDs, you can often skip it. Do I recommend it (and always include in my builds)? Yes... for me, assuring I always have a good data signal is worth the $1 cost of the shifter and a few extra minutes of soldering. I don't want to complete an install then discover I have a signal problem after the fact. Yes... the LEDs will work at 3.3V, although the specs call for 5V. But also note that not every board and LED strip is manufactured with the exact same tolerances. One install that works just fine with a given data lead length might experience problems with the exact same setup using a different ESP and LED strip. But the choice is completely yours... that's why it is called DIY. You can include a shifter, use a sacrificial pixel, or skip boosting the data signal altogether. However, as I mentioned, for the $1 and a few extra minutes, I opt to always include the shifter in my LED installs.
@@ResinChemTechThanks. That makes perfect sense! And a huge thanks for taking the time to respond so comprehensively to my comments/questions. The information provided in the video, comments and write-ups are greatly appreciated. Apologies for bringing up a point that has been debated to death :) I wasn't aware.
No apology necessary. I should probably apologize to you! It's just a bit of a sore spot... as I've had dozens and dozens of people tell me that a shifter isn't needed. So many in fact, that I did a video specifically covering the logic level shifter, why I recommend it and what **could** happen in some situations if you omit it ( ruclips.net/video/Q9mLitVxF3c/видео.html ). I have also said in numerous videos where I include the shifter, that while you may be able to get away without it, I still recommend using it (and why), but the ultimate decision to include it or omit it is yours. I do know that the first time you end up having a signal problem after installation will likely convince you to include it on all your future projects. At least it did for me! So, apologies on my end. I shouldn;t have jumped on the comment as hard as I did. Thanks for understanding... and thanks for your kind words. Good luck with your projects!
That's great! That's what I try to do on my channel... teach others some of the things I learned, and to give back for those that helped me when I was first staring out. Thanks for watching... and if you run into any questions, don't hesitate to ask!
Do you mean to power the LED strip? If so, it is because the D1 Mini (and other related ESP boards) are only rated for max current throughput of around 500 milliamps... meaning you could only power around 8 LEDs at full power. Attempting to push more current through the controller will very likely result in damage to controller (or worse). Even the prototype boards or breadboards are only rated for a few amps, so you generally need to run power from the power supply directly to the LED strips as well to separately to the controller for anything larger than a handful of LED pixels. If you only need to light a couple of pixels, you could probably get away with using the 5V pin.
It *should* work with Windows 11... once you find the right driver. My primary machines are still Windows 10, but I was able to install a driver and WLED using a Windows 11 machine. First go to your machine's manufacturer website and see if you can find a 'USB to UART', 'Serial IO' driver (or similar). I do know that Lenovo is one brand that I could not get a generic driver to work, but the one from Lenovo did the trick. If you can't find something on the manufacture's web site, then you might try a generic driver like this one: www.silabs.com/developers/usb-to-uart-bridge-vcp-drivers This was the driver that worked on my Windows 11 machine... and I was able to flash an ESP8266 NodeMCU with WLED after installing the driver. Good luck!
Hi Juck, There is a wiring diagram at 10:23 of the video. In addition, you can see a wiring diagram on my related blog post at resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2021/01/building-your-own-led-light-strip.html. But basically, you are going to connect the 5V pin of the D1 Mini/NodeMCU to the HV pin of the logic level shifter. Then connect the 3.3V pin from the board to the LV pin. Connect ground on both sides to a ground pin of the board. Then connect the output signal pin from the board (usually D4) to any one of the four available channels on the low side of the logic level shifter (LV1 - LV4). Then connect the output to the LED strip on the HV side (HV1-HV4), using the same channel as on the low side.
I assume you are talking about the helping hands? If so, here's the one that I use: amzn.to/3vNwF4z I've been pretty happy with it and have been using it for over four years now. If that was not what you were talking about, just let me know.
Great video, thanks for posting it. I enjoy the detail rich videos when I am trying to research and learn. I am actully trying to build a WLED controller to run LED Strips in a sign I'm building for my business. I have my LED Strips (BTF Lighting WS2812B) and my power supply (BTF 5V 20AMP 100 Watts) and my development board (ESP8266 NodeMCU CP2102 ESP-12E Development Board). I learned by your video about the electrocookie board and that I will have to use the larger board with my 8266 chip choice, plus I had no idea until watching this video I needed the Logic Level Shifter to supply 5V to the LED Strips. So, I have those in my cart on Amazon as well. BUT, what I dont have, and am having trouble finding, is a suitable project box that has standoffs built in that fit that electrocookie board. Is there something you could point me towards? I am excited to try this project out, I've never built anything like this before. I am a John Deere Mechanic of 27 years, and wanting to learn electronics better, and what better way than to build my own LED controller board! Thanks for any advice you can give me.
Welcome to the world of DIY LEDs and electronics! Just a fair warning that it can become addictive! As far as a project box, I don't know of anything with built-in standoffs for the Electrocookie board. It wasn't very far into my own DIY electronics journey that I realized I needed a 3D printer to print enclosures and other parts that just couldn't be found anywhere. However, prior to having the printer, I used to use small electronic project boxes similar to this: amzn.to/3G0Y9Gx (be sure to check dimension of your project against the inside size of the enclosure). Yeah... you will likely have to drill or cut your own openings, but these boxes can be drilled or cut pretty easily. As far as standoffs, I would sometimes use small rubber gaskets or even a small M2 screw and nut through the Electrocookie mounting holes to create "legs" for the board. Then I'd just use some hot glue to hold things in place. Hot glue is your friend for these types of projects! I hope that is somewhat helpful. Good luck with your project... and don't hesitate to reach back out if you have additional questions!
@@ResinChemTech Yeah I kind of got carrie away when I put RGBIC LED Cafe Lights on my back porch, then bought Govee Cafe Lights this winter to use as Christmas Lights on the house, plus some Govee bulbs and strip lights. Wasnt happy with the strip lights, and started researching building my own. That's when I realized I could probably cut off the factory controllers from these Govee lights and wire in my own controllers to run them, and I could also do my own backlit business sign using the same controllers, and now my imagination is running wild LOL. Already thinking about designing some automotive setups as well for our shop truck, gotta figure out the process first on this trial run one before I get TOO ahead of myself LOL!
Please see the video description. There is a link there for the enclosure design files. You can either print yourself or send to an online 3D printing service to have them printed for you.
Do you happen to know if I click your affiliate link and add the item to my "things to buy" list on amazon.. and I purchase them later, do you still get the commission?
Thanks for your feedback in your other comment... and for your support by utilizing my Amazon Affiliate links! I do use what little I make towards future projects, and this really does help out the channel. It's a little murky, but the way I read it, if you go to Amazon via any of my links, it starts a 24 hour window for purchase of any items unless you later return using someone else's affiliate link. So in the case of adding something to your "wish list" or 'things to buy' list, as long as you return to Amazon using any of my links (it doesn't have to be the particular item you are going to buy.. any of the links will start a new "session"), you could add those other items to your shopping cart and the channel will still get credit for any items you purchase during that visit. Thanks again for asking... and considering supporting the channel!
Hi again, nice videos btw. I have a question about power drawing. Are breadboards capable to handle 4amps per channel or is it better to connect the power for the strips separately from the breadboard?
For very small installs, you can run the power for the LED strips through the breadboard (but NOT through the controller... don't power your LEDs directly off the 5V pin of the ESP8266/32 - these are only meant for a few hundred milliamps - it might work for a while, but odds are you will blow the controller). For anything that is going to draw more than about 1-2 amps, I'd highly recommend that you run the power in parallel from the power supply to the controller and the LED strips. I show a diagram of this wiring in my related blog article to this video: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2021/01/building-your-own-led-light-strip.html - check the section labeled "For Larger LED installations"
Brilliant video. question am I right that need to have one Wemos D1 Mini every 5 mtr reel of WS2812B ? because I notice in start of your clip - ws2012b strip at your pool table and other ws2012b strip elsewhere in your room...
No, not necessarily. I'm using different controller for a number of reasons, but mostly because running the wiring from the strip in one area (like the pool table) to another strip in a different area (like the dart board) would not get a very high WAF (wife-approval-factor)! I tend to use a separate controller for installs in different locations to minimize exposed wiring... it also allows different installs to have different colors/effects from the others. The D1 Mini will support up to around 500 (give or take) LEDs and still have good performance, according to the official WLED web site ( kno.wled.ge/features/multi-strip/ ). Moving up to an ESP32, you can move up to 800-1000 LEDs from a single controller pin and still get good performance. So, assuming your LED strip is 5 m of 60 LEDs/m, that's only 300 LEDs total... which a single D1 mini can handle with no issues. You are more likely going to need to consider power injection at the end of your strip (as opposed to a separate controller), as each LED zaps just a little bit of voltage due to resistance. By the time you get to the end of the strip, the voltage drop will be enough to impact both the brightness and color of the LEDs. I discuss power injection in a number of my LED videos (and related blog articles), but will be releasing a new video in a couple of weeks that addresses a number of common LED questions and will include information on power injection. Or you can simply search 'LED power injection' to find a wealth of information about it. 300 LEDs is about the limit before power drop becomes an issue. I'd try testing the full strip with your controller before installation to see if power injection might be needed. Good luck with your project! Note that this particular video is a bit outdated (although still applicable) and I have a number of other more recent LED-related videos that you can find here: ruclips.net/p/PLqjDNeOVHOkf079FYwRLRoOHJwLijKkP3
@@ResinChemTech Many thanks for reply which it mean hell alots. I am ok with power/voltage drop sides as i am electrician myself. I just interesting wondering... about what max length of wire core signal data between controller to WS2812 strips. Thinking of every Ws2812 strips getting powers from power packs elsewhere... just the data signal. Ideal is one cupboards full of controllers only (Like Brains cupboard) with all signal outputs to every strips in whole house? and less running cables. like you said WAF :-)
For the data line, as long as you are using a logic level shifter and boosting the data line to 5V, you can run quite a distance from the controller to the start of the LEDs. My longest distance is around 15 feet, but I'm not sure of the max. The LEDs are expecting a 5V data signal... although they will generally still function with a data signal down around 3.2-3.3V (that's why people say you don't need the shifter if you keep your data line very short). But by boosting to 5V, you can run quite a distance before the voltage drops below minimum and causes problems. If you have an exceptionally long run, you can use a 'sacrificial pixel' along the data line. Since each LED pixel automatically boost the data signal to 5V before passing along to the next LED, you can use a single LED as a sort of 'in-line' booster. You can also purchase a pre-built data line booster ( quinled.info/quinled-data-booster-for-sale/ ). But with either method, it does require 5V and GND at the booster point. I'm guessing this is most common in situation like outdoor Christmas lights where you might have a long run between LEDs. Hope that info helps. Let me know if you have additional questions.
@@ResinChemTech Thanks again, will noted that in my mind. what cable you use for data.. so i use copper and it seem to be interfere. when i not touch the wires.. colours from ws2812 seem odds.... i touched the data wire between controller and ws2812 - ws2812 playing leds correct colours.. weird! what sort of wire you use for long run?
I generally just use 20 gauge copper wire... maybe 18 gauge for a longer run. It almost sounds to me like you have a grounding issue. Check all your ground connections. Are you possibly using two different power supplies... one for the controller and one for the LEDs? If you do this, you must establish a common ground connection between the controller and LEDs... or between the two different power supplies... or strange things will happen like you are describing. I don't have any issues or see any LED changes when I touch any of my data lines... so I'd start by looking at your grounds. In addition, if you have a long run where your data line is in parallel with the ground line, this sometimes requires a resistor on the data line. Take a look at that data line booster I linked to above for recommended resistor values if that is truly your problem.
Enjoyed your video. I'm running WLED on a couple of nodemcus and everything works great however when I cycle power I have to hit the reset button on the board to get it to restart. Any Ideas?
Couple of thoughts.... check your LED preferences under Config for default options after a power-up/reboot. Next, I always disable the WiFi sleep option under the WiFi settings. I do have a couple of older versions of WLED controllers that occasionally drop off the network and I have to power cycle to get back online. As a last resort, if possible, try reflashing the board with the latest version of WLED. I've had boot loops occur, but those generally were with older versions of WLED.
As a general rule, most of my how-to videos have a related blog article that contain links to all the parts used, wiring diagrams, etc. and is listed in the video description. As to your particular requests: The enclosures are 3D printed parts that I designed myself. You can find the .stl files on Thingiverse. There are two files, one for the mini and one for the full size: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4969733 And here's an Amazon affiliate link to the ElectroCookie prototype boards that I used: amzn.to/2NXj8Bv Let me know if you have any other questions!
Would i need a Logic level shifter even if Im using ESP32? I would be using a WS2815 with 12V power Supply and for my 5 meter roll which is 60led/Meter
Both the ESP8266 and ESP32 output 3.3V on the GPIO pins, so it really doesn't make any difference as far as the logic level shifter is concerned. Again, you can sometimes get away without the shifter if you keep the wiring between the controller and first LED of your strip short. But I always like to add the $1 shifter to assure a full 5V signal and not have to worry about wire length or problems related to a poor signal. I have another video that shows what can happen to the LEDs with a signal where the voltage drops too low and how the shifter fixes it: ruclips.net/video/Q9mLitVxF3c/видео.html And of course as you probably know, you will need to drop down the 12V from your power supply to 5V for the controller using a buck converter or similar. The ESP8266 (or ESP32) won't be very happy if you try to feed it 12V! Let me know if you have any other questions!
@@ResinChemTech Thank you so much for the ultrafast reply... Requesting if you already have a video on Using Buck Converter so i can bring 12V down to 5V for ESP 32
I don't have a video specifically covering a buck converter for a WLED controller, but I do cover it somewhat in my video on using an old PC fan as a soldering fan. The concept is the same, though... taking a 12V power supply and using a buck converter to step it down to 5V for an ESP8266: ruclips.net/video/PvCY0ZnRIgc/видео.html Maybe that can get you started in the right direction. If not, feel free to reach back out and I'll try to assist further.
Good evening Resinchem Tech and everyone,I was wondering if you could give me a bit of guidance on purchasing an 5inch lcd or similar screen please,Im looking to use wled and home assistance on it to work my 12v strip lights on my stairs,I’m hoping this is achievable so I can finish my project ,many thanks Paul.
Hi Paul. I think I responded to this over under the stair video, but any tablet will work that either runs Android, iOS or has a web browser. Both Home Assistant and WLED have dedicated mobile apps for Android and iOS... and both can also be accessed with any modern web browser. There are a lot of Android tablets in the 7-8" range that would work nicely with both Home Assistant and WLED.
Good afternoon Resinchem Tech, thank you for the advice, I’m building controller using a d1 mini ,I was wondering where can I purchase the plastic enclosure for my controller ,all so will this controller work on 12V strip lights? Many thanks for your time Paul.
Hi Paul. Again, I responded to your question about 12V strips in your comment/question under the stair lights video, but what I said was: "As far as the 12V LED strips, you will obviously need to step that voltage down to 5V for the controller via a buck converter or other means (the D1 Mini will go "poof" if you try to feed it 12V). If you use separate power sources for the LEDs and the controller, then you must have a common ground between the controller and the LED strip or things won't function normally. Otherwise, as long as you feed 5V to the controller, the build is the same." In terms of an enclosure, assuming you don't have access to a 3D printer, you can pick up a small project box from Amazon, something similar to this: amzn.to/3CXYnwo . They come in various sizes, so pick one you think will hold your controller and components. They are pretty easy to drill or cut opening into with something like a Dremel. I used these types of project boxes a lot before I got my 3D printer.
Wow... thanks! I'm glad you found it helpful. I'm never sure how much detail to include, but I always try to include chapter links so folks can skip around if I'm covering something they already know. Thanks for watching... and I greatly appreciate the feedback. It's comments like this that keep me motivated to make more videos!
Here's an Amazon affiliate link, but note that they currently show it as unavailable: amzn.to/3DvsN7t - I've been very happy with it. Maybe you can find a similar item?
You'd have to use a step-down buck converter (or similar DC-DC converter) to step down the 12/24V power supply for your LEDs to 5V for the controller. Alternatively, you could use a separate 5V power supply for the controller (if it is only powering the controller, it only needs to be an amp or so... like a phone charger), but if you use separate power supplies, you must be sure that the controller and LED strip share a common ground.. or weird things will happen!
Absolutely! You need the sound reactive version of WLED, as well as a mic hooked up. I cover that in a couple of my other videos, but I'd start with the sound reactive LED floor lamps (ruclips.net/video/_xEFJMp48z4/видео.html). You can jump straight to the chapter on the controller and software using the links in the video description (it's around the 12 minute mark I think) to see how to hook up the mic to the D1 Mini.
Yes it can. If you'd like to see the differences in performance between the ESP8266 and ESP32, take a look at this: ruclips.net/video/q1ghNUND6gk/видео.html
@@ResinChemTech thank you, as new to how to set up these boards, I tried to search your channel for a setup video for the esp32, Is there a video shows a full process on how to program, setup, and connect to Pixels for ESP32-WROOM-32, also can be powered with 12v power supply
The process is the same for both the ESP8266 and ESP32... the only difference is the data signal pin (the default for the ESP32 is GPIO16... but if using WLED, you can define the pin to use). However, you cannot run the ESP32 directly from your 12V power supply... you will need to use a buck or step-down converter to get the voltage down to 5V. If you feed anything over about 6V into the ESP32 board, you will likely damage or destroy it. Otherwise, the process is the same: Connect 5V and GND to the VIN and GND pins on the ESP32. Feed a data/signal line out from GPIO16 through the logic level shifter (recommended), and then out to your LED strip. Run your power in parallel to the LED strips and controller... but remember that if you are using 12V LEDs, you must step that power down to 5V before feeding to the controller. You might check out the official WLED site that also shows a diagram of hooking up a 12V power supply with an ESP controller: kno.wled.ge/basics/getting-started/
@@ResinChemTech By the way, these infos deserve a video from you lol, as not many youtubers explaining the the proper way, maybe Dr Zzs explains more then others, but for example most of the reviewers don't explain things the right way like little things example, I watched so many videos on how to use esphome flasher, and almost none of them says that, USB Date Cable should be used for this task, and lots of beginners they think their computer, or software not capable or other sort of things, at least if they are apparently saying, use USB cable to connect the board to the computer, they could include this word which's only four letter, Data, USB, better then make viewers collect all sorts of USB cable to try which one is going to work lol, Thanks again
After watching just about every video you posted I decided to I build a 5v LED cloud design with some cotton and a metal frame for my daughters ceiling. My question is how long can the power cable be from the power source to the ESP 8266 before it becomes a problem? I want to try and hide the cable in the corner of the wall with a piece of trim. I am brand new to this DIY thing but im hooked immediately. Any thoughts or comments would be much appreciated.
The power supply can be quite a distance away from both the controller and the LED strips as long as you use appropriate gauge wire. The biggest distance limitation is the distance between the controller and the start of the LED strips for the data signal wire. But if you utilize a logic level shifter (or sacrificial pixel), even that can be quite a distance. I have one install where there is at least 15 feet between the power supply/controller and the start of the LED strip. Naturally I am using a logic level shifter... although many claim it isn't needed. You might have seen my video showing why I think the shifter is a good idea. I would definitely recommend that you try a bench test first with the amount of wiring you think it is going to take before I started cutting trim! But I think that if you use an appropriate power supply, wire gauge and a logic level shifter, you won't have any issues... unless you are talking some sort of crazy distance. Good luck with your project.... and welcome to the deep rabbit hole of DIY and LEDs! Don't hesitate to reach back out if I can help along the way.
@@ResinChemTech Thank you so much for the info! Im talking about 15 feet. I was just using an old 5w cell phone charger for the power supply and a flat micro usb cable to run to the esp 8266 and i noticed that it wasnt available when i used more than the 2 foot micro usb cable from the 5w power supply to the esp 8266. Like I said I am brand new to this so maybe my power supply being the old cellphone charger cube isnt enough.
Yeah... with the people that I've helped, the most common problem is generally related to the power supply... either not enough power or thinking that they can run the power through the ESP8266 to the LEDs... which quickly fries the ESP board. I think I've mentioned in multiple videos, but I use the max. 0.060A per pixel. So, for example, 100 pixels would need 6A (plus I allow about another 0.5A for the controller)... and I always round that up to something like 10A. Most phone charges/USB wall chargers, etc. aren't going to put out more than a couple of amps at best. Also note that if you are using separate power supplies for the LEDs and the controller, you must have a common ground between the two. While it might initially light up, all kind of funky things will happen with effects unless you have a common ground. I generally recommend a single power supply of adequate size, but you run separate 5V leads from that to the LEDs and to the controller.
Absolutely. In fact, running anything other than a few pixels requires that the power run directly to the LED strip and not through the controller. For the D1 Mini, it can only handle a maximum current output of around 500mv (about 8-10 pixels). I always run the power to the controller and independently to the LED strips... with the common ground you mentioned. I show this in the bench test in the video (23:17). Yes, you could also use 12V strips, but you'd have to have two separate power supplies (the max voltage input on the D1 Mini is only 6V) or use a step-down/buck converter to lower the input voltage to the controller to
@@ResinChemTech thank you. It seems a modified computer power supply (with a breakout board) might be perfect as it would supply a common ground, 12v and 5v outputs and plenty of amperage. Thanks again
Quick Question: I don't have a 3D printer. I'd like to purchase a case suitable to hold the LED Controller. I am new to electronics. Is there a web site/supplier you'd recommend to purchase a case to house the LED controller? What are the dimensions?
I know... I need to remember in my videos that not everyone has a 3D printer and to offer alternatives. You have a few options here. First, you can simply search Amazon for "electronics project box" and find something suitable (you may have to drill some holes for the incoming/outgoing wiring). The dimensions will be based on the ElectroCookie board your use (full or mini) and nothing will be a perfect fit. See my related blog article posted in the video description for links to the ElectroCookie boards. If you want a custom 3D printed case, first check around and see if there is a college or university (or community maker space) in your area that might print your item for little-to-no cost. In lieu of that, there are a multitude of online services that will print your design. I haven't used any, so I can really make any recommendations. I've posted the design files for my versions (full and mini) on Thingiverse and you can find them here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4969733 You can download the .stl files and provide them to the printing service. These are pretty basic designs, but they work well for me. Let me know if you have any follow-up questions! Good luck with your project.
Sorry, but I don't build them for sale. I just don't have the time and the goal of my channel is to teach others how to do it themselves. But if you are interested in a pre-built version, Quindor over at QuinLED sells pre-built WLED controllers: quinled.info/pre-assembled-quinled-dig-uno/
I'm assuming you mean with 12V LED strips? If so, then you'd take the 12V power supply and use a step-down buck converter to convert the voltage to 5V for the connection to the controller. You then run another set of leads from the 12V power supply directly to the LED strip. The other alternative is to consider purchasing a pre-built board like the DigUno (quinled.info/pre-assembled-quinled-dig-uno/). This board can accept either 12V or 5V to power the controller and comes pre-installed with WLED. Let me know if you were asking something different... or have any other questions.
@@ResinChemTech thanks for the answer! I'll have to look into it and see what I can do. I have so many random 12v power supplies hanging around. I'm building a dig uno, but everything is coming from AliExpress, I am building this in the meantime because I'm bored and want to keep learning. Great video to do just that!
It's 60/40 (Sn/Pb) 0.6mm rosin core (1.8% flux). Here's an Amazon affiliate link: amzn.to/3DOM6HO (the Wyctin brand you see in the video is currently unavailable, but it is exactly the same stuff).
Honestly, between parts, labor and shipping... plus the time involved in managing all that, I don't think I could sell them at a price that would be attractive. However, if you are looking for a pre-built option with WLED already installed (and lots of other features), check out the DigBoards offered by Quindor: quinled.info/pre-assembled-quinled-dig-uno/
Well.. I can't say that was necessarily the vibe I was going for! But after I did the first install on the pool table, things just kind of took off from there! Once you install your first set of DIY LEDs, it kind of becomes a bit addictive and you start looking for other places to install them. Before long, you end up with something that looks like my man cave. Although, most of the time the LEDs are lit up together in a "theme" of some sort (like blue and white for NFL Sundays)... and not just various random colors like I show here. But thanks for watching, and taking time to post a comment.
Great video! I recently built a few WLED controllers using logic level shifters. It was cool to see someone else's take on it as well. I also liked seeing the button integration, I haven't done that yet but plan to in the future. One more addition to your WLED board would be to add an inexpensive IR receiver, and use those cheap remotes in the beginning of your video to control them. I just added some to a couple of my boards so the kids have an easy way to control their LED's.
Great idea... I haven't tried that yet. I guess between Home Assistant, Google voice and the local button controls, I hadn't really considered a remote. But I'd like to try messing with an IR receiver... just to put it in my tool bag for potential other projects. Do you have a particular receiver you recommend that works well with the ESP8266?
Great video. Love to see more at this length and level of detail. I enjoy seeing different components and techniques used. For example, in the parking video, I liked seeing the matrix display used since I had never seen one before. How did you select that component over others like it? How did you implement it in the software? Maybe I'm not going to build a parking sensor but learning how to use distance sensors and matrix displays I might make something else entirely. Good work, I look forward to seeing more?
Thanks! I always try to find a balance between how-to details and a general overview. Usually, I'll see something that someone else has done and maybe find a way to adapt it for my own use. That was the case with the matrix display. My original parking assistant was just going to be red/yellow/green stoplight style. But I saw this matrix and wanted to learn how it worked. I also wanted to learn a little more about Python, so that's the route I took. I hope maybe my videos might inspire you to come up with your own ideas as well. Thanks for watching!
If anything, IMHO, I'd rather you make videos LONGER and MORE detailed, but I don't relate to most people and I'm curious if your dashboard shows viewer attrition after 10 minutes, and thats why you ask, because that would be sad.
Thanks for the feedback... I do appreciate it. And you are completely correct. There is significant drop in % viewership after about 5-10 minutes. But in the time since I asked this question (again... a bit dated and old at this point), I received significant feedback that a large number of my subscribers do like the longer videos that contain explanations of the "why" along with the "what". So I've continued to make longer videos... despite the drop in % viewers. But I'm really doing this to try to help folks just starting out (much like I was when I made some of these earlier videos... and why I would sometimes show something like running power through the board that I would learn later wasn't the safest way to do it). I'd rather have a smaller number of regular viewers/subscribers that I can engage with, as opposed to just pandering to the numbers to try to maximize subscribers or revenue. But that's just me! Thanks again for the feedback. While I continue to make longer videos, I do try to always include the chapter links so folks can skip over parts in which they aren't interested (again... another no-no if you are just trying to maximize view hours).
Thanks! I don't know how "calming" it was filming it, but I'm glad you enjoyed it. It does seem like the majority of the feedback I've received are those that favor the longer "how-to" videos. Or maybe it is just the people that like short videos don't hang around long enough to hear me ask the question! Thanks for watching!
This video was exceptionally thought out and effectively presented. I would really like to see this same video duplicated for the ESP32 which has more power and capacity, according to air cookie, to handle new and future features.
Thanks! I have used the ESP32 with WLED on a couple of occasions... primarily with the sound reactive version of WLED. In hindsight, I wish I would have covered the ESP32 as part of my sound reactive floor lamps. I also use an ESP32 in my mailbox notification video due to its deep sleep abilities. I've basically stuck with the D1 mini for most of my use cases both due to its low cost and the ability to fit it onto the smaller version of the prototype board. But I'd be happy to add using an ESP32 to the list of my upcoming videos. Thanks for watching!
Excellent, up to date video with clear details covered. I would like to use an APA 102 strip, with out the push button, connected to the D1 Mini. What D1 Mine pins are used for Data and Clock signals? Do you need to up the Clock signal voltage to 5V?
I haven't used APA102 strips before, but beginning with the current latest release of WLED (0.12.0), you can define whatever pins you want to use. When selecting APA102 as your LED type, it will display fields to define the pins you are using for CLK and DATA. But I *think* that the original defaults were GPIO0 (D3) and GPIO2 (D4). I would definitely test on a breadboard before making any final soldered connections. I'd check the data sheet for APA102, but I believe you can pass 5V signals on both the clock and data lines, so I'd probably shift both... but again, a breadboard test is recommended because I have not personally tried these strips so I'm unsure.
I mainly use APA102 with the D1 mini and the ESP32 mini, and they work great with one major gotcha: On the D1 mini, I use D3 and D4 for clock/data (doesn’t matter which is which), but in WLED they are numbered differently: D3=0 and D4=2
I know it's over 2 years now, but I just found this channel. I really enjoy the long format videos. Thank you for making these.
You are very welcome and I'm glad you are enjoying them... despite their length! I do try to include the "why" as well as the "how" in my videos with the hope that someone can take the concepts and adapt them to their own needs. But this does tend to make for longer videos.
Thanks for watching... and thanks for the comment and feedback.
Just built my first LED controller using this video as a guide! Your videos have gotten me interested in DIY home automation and LED lighting. The clear and thorough explanations of your processes are so helpful. Keep up the great videos. I always look forward to your next project.
Thanks for the kind words... and congrats on building your first LED controller! Be forewarned... it can be a bit addictive! Once you start down that path of DIY electronics and home automation, it can kind of grab a hold of you!
Don't hesitate to reach back out if I can help out with your LED or home automation journey somewhere down the road.
This is just what I was looking for. I have the parts on order and the kids will be getting a nice suprize when its done :)
Great! Let me know how it goes or if you have any questions.
Definitely like these longer, deeper dive videos, and chapters help.
The level of detail in this video is perfect for me. This is all new to me and I am able to follow along and understand. Additionally, your blog provides excellent detail. Love the pictures and step by step instructions.
Thanks. It was new to all of us at some point! I always try to find the balance between a quick overview that leaves the viewer with a lot of incomplete information that they have to research vs. an overly long video that no one wants to watch! And thanks for noting the blog. I try to always include a related blog with any parts used, wiring diagrams, code snippets or more detail if needed so that you don't need to go back and try to 'freeze' the video to see those parts. Welcome to the channel! Don't hesitate to reach out if I can assist you in any of your own projects.
Excellent video, I've watched a ton of these on the net and this is one of the best on this subject. Huge kudos :)
Thanks! It's good to get this sort of feedback, as I always debate on how much detail to include. I like to provide enough detail that someone can adapt the project to their own needs without having to do a lot of other research. But this can make for longer videos. I generally hope I can find a middle ground for most of my videos. Thanks again for watching and taking time to comment!
New to the channel. Video length and detail are great. Been wanting to wrap my house, like Christmas lights. Had found a project to build controllers to control 1000's of led's, but information is no longer available. Ty for what you do.
Thanks for the feedback! This particular project probably isn't the right one for controlling 1000's of LEDs... at least not without moving up to an ESP32 and using multiple pins for data output. According to the official WLED site in terms of numbers of LEDs ( kno.wled.ge/features/multi-strip/ ), you can get good performance of up to around 500 or so LEDs off of a single data pin. Using an ESP32 with multiple data pins, you can expect good performance up to around 4,000 LEDs.... and while very similar, that is a different build than the one I show here.
I do have another video where I touch on this topic by comparing the ESP8266 to the ESP32 with WLED, if you want to see a little bit more as to what I'm talking about: ruclips.net/video/q1ghNUND6gk/видео.html
Regardless, thanks for watching and welcome to the channel!
Just subscribed, your videos are just the right time length full of detail and enjoy them just as they are.
Thanks for the feedback. I've tried to continue to invest in things like better lighting, better cameras and microphones to make my more recent videos a little higher quality than some of these older ones, but I do continue to try to always include the "why" in my videos in addition to the "how"... even if that does make them a bit longer than most.
Thanks for subscribing and welcome to the channel!
Thanks for this! I just printed your project box and built the same controller using this video. Now I have an awesome light setup in my 3d printer room!
Outstanding! But be forewarned... if this was your first LED project, it likely won't be your last! After I built my first one, it just kept going from there and now I have more than two dozen of those little controllers throughout my house with LEDs on all sorts of surfaces.
Thanks for taking time to drop me a comment. I love hearing from my viewers that they successfully used one of my videos for their own projects. Congrats!
This and your other videos are simply Awesome! LOVE the length and in-depth nature. I have been searching for a cheaper and more robust alternative to Phillips Hue LED’s and this is it - Love the simplicity, yet thoroughness of the Home Assistant integration. Because of this and your light strip video, I’ve successfully built my own and have only just gotten started. I have some really cool projects planned. Also loved you stair video by the way. About to dig into you other videos as well. Obviously I’ve subscribed and clicked the bell so keep’um coming and thank you so much again!!!
Wow... thanks for the kind words and I'm glad you find the videos helpful. I actually have Philips Hue, but I had them well before I learned to build my own LED controllers... and before I was very deep into Home Assistant. If I had it to do over, I wouldn't spend the money on Hue... but they do work well and have been pretty reliable.
Thanks for watching... and don't hesitate to reach out if you have any questions or just want to share your projects.
long videos are good. long lasting. great job
Thanks. I appreciate it. And I appreciate the feedback!
I find the length of the your videos to be just fine. I appreciate the greater detail provided in a longer video as I am just starting out witrh LED lighting. Shorter videos feel like far to abbreviated for my taste. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the feedback! Like you, I would occasionally get frustrated that some project videos were so short and missed so many details, it left me with a lot to figure out on my own. So, I do try to provide enough information that that someone should be able to adapt my project for their own needs. And now I always try to provide chapter links in the timeline and video description for those that really don't want to watch all the details.
I appreciate the kind words and that you took the time to post a comment. Thanks again!
I echo David's comments, and thank you for taking the time to share with the world!
Great video! Have been trying to find this type of content to get into this small circuit boards. Definitely like this style where it's eastly to visualize. It's nice to have the diagrams to supplement as well! Great work! Keep the videos coming!
Thanks! I sometimes get concerned about the length of some of my videos, but most people who have commented say they prefer the longer, step-by-step how-to videos. It does take me some extra time, but I do like to try to provide a supplemental blog article with each video to provide things like wiring diagrams, code samples, etc. that I can't really make easily accessible via video.
Thanks for watching and taking time to comment!
I've probably watched this video 7 more times and ordered through your Amazon links. I think something interesting to see would be using the bullet style led's from your Christmas tree video for external lighting application. Maybe instruction for waterproofing a transformer. I think getting those set up for a Christmas display with your style instruction would be a big hit!
I've had numerous people try to encourage me to do the whole outdoor, synchronized-to-music Christmas light show. I just haven't been motivated to do so and there is already a house in the neighborhood that does that. I haven't done any outdoor LEDs yet. This Spring I may add lights to our screened in porch, in which case, I'll use those bullet LED's and have to create a weatherproof version and/or enclosures for the power supply and controller. I'll be sure to make a video out of that process.
Thanks for watching (all seven times!), and a huge thanks for the support by using the Amazon links. Feel free to shoot me any questions you might run into along the way with your LED projects.
I like the length and level of detail. And by all means monetize your videos. If RUclips is going to play ads anyway you should at least get a lil money 🤷🏼♂️. A lil closer look / more zoomed in shot would be nice at the key points when soldering. I love how tight and clean this setup is with the 3d printed housing
Thanks for the feedback! And yeah... back when I made this video and the "editorial comment", RUclips had just changed their terms. Prior to this, ads were never shown on my videos. But rest assured, that as soon as I was eligible, I did take advantage of the opportunity to at least be paid a few pennies on those ads!
And as I've continued to make more videos, both my equipment and editing techniques have gotten better... including the ability to zoom in for better views in some instances. I was a bit limited when first creating videos based both on the camera and my own abilities!
Thanks so much for watching, the kind comments and the feedback. I do appreciate it!
Fantastic, full 30min video. Well done. You Rock.
Thanks. I appreciate you watching and taking time to leave a comment!
New viewer/subscriber. I appreciate the complete walk thrus.
Thanks for the feedback. I continue to tweak things to try to make my videos better and more informative, and I do take the feedback into account.
And thanks for subscribing! Let me know if you implement any of my projects... and of course if you have any questions along the way.
@@ResinChemTech I'm currently making this LED controller right now. I smoked the first on though, I had a 24vdc power supply instead of 5vdc. OOPS!
These detailed walkthroughs have been extremely helpful for me!
Thanks... I'm glad you find them helpful! I'm never sure how much detail to cover vs. length of video, but I always appreciate the feedback.
Thanks for watching and taking time to comment! I appreciate it.
Wow late to the party given you made the video about 2 years ago. Great information here. Would be awesome if you could add in another video how to integrate one of the controllers to power a 24V COB LED strip. Thanks.
Yeah... this is definitely one of my older videos, which is apparent by the poor video and audio quality... made before I invested in better equipment.
I do talk about powering 12V and 24V LEDs along with this controller in a number of other videos, including this one on common LED questions: ruclips.net/video/GZv5Ztj6i6I/видео.html
I also have a blog article that really isn't a "how-to" but more of a list of common LED controller wiring diagrams and it also covers wiring and use of this controller with higher voltage LED strips: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2023/01/wiring-diagrams.html
Don't know if you might find either one of those helpful.
Please full length videos are great
Thanks for the feedback. In my more recent videos, I'm trying to show a quick highlight overview of the finished project (for those that want a quick look) and then follow that with the full step-by-step process for those that want to hang around and see the complete project.
Thanks for watching and taking time to provide your feedback. I does help determine how I make future videos.
Love the full video with diagrams and stuff 👌🏻 love the work
Thanks! I really appreciate the comment... and the feedback.
fantastic video ,the best tutorial for getting started on these kind of projects .thank you for taking the time to produce it in sutch a full and rounded fashion.
regards
paul
Thanks! I try to make the kinds of videos that I wanted to watch when first starting out. Enough details that I could recreate a project, with at least a little explanation as to why something was being done, so that I could maybe learn a thing or two and adapt it to my own project.
I really appreciate you taking time to comment!
Great work on the video! Would love to see more start to finish videos like this! Obviously interested in what else youve got going on in your smart home!
I do have a 30 minute walkthrough video that highlights the other smart "stuff" in my home (ruclips.net/video/sHbZjLbX7uk/видео.html). Of course, I'm always adding new stuff, so even though I did this video in December, there are probably at least a dozen or more new things. At some point, I'll try to do an update or "what's new in my home" video.
@@ResinChemTech awesome, can't wait to watch! Thanks
Yes I liked your video and the way explained was quite good. I am inspired. Thank you
Thanks! I greatly appreciate the feedback and that you took the time to post a comment.
loving the full videos and im subscribed, keep up the great content thanks
Good tips! So I could hook up more buttons and assign them to do other functions that's pretty cool
Yeah... last time I checked, the latest version of WLED has default support for up to two connected buttons. Each button can have three different functions... single press, double-press and long press. In addition, you can add an IR receiver and use an IR remote to do even more.
@@ResinChemTech can you use those cheap ones that come with every light set 😏.
Actually I want to be able to use they lights with my DMX setup maybe even be able to run wled through lightkey as a phantom fixture.
I think if you can capture the IR codes, probably. I discuss and show connecting a remote to a WLED controller in my video on Hexagonal LED panels (aka Nano Leafs): ruclips.net/video/lNcsT5DZjAM/видео.html and a bit more about it in my second live stream on using buttons and remotes with WLED. And more information on using a remote can be found on the official WLED web site ( kno.wled.ge/interfaces/infrared/ ).
Thank you for explaining the alternative to the logic level shifter. I end up with a bunch of short strips and it comes in handy. I also have a bag of 100 neopixels that I got for 3 dollars on sale, you can use that led in the same way if you don’t want to cut the strip.
Also, side topic, if you do some more sound reactive stuff the esp32 version of the d1 mini will get you more effects.
You're welcome! As with most smart home tech and DIY electronics, there are a lot of ways to accomplish the same outcome. I usually just use the logic level shifter because I have a whole container of them (bought in bulk when on sale).. and I like to have a self-contained controller that can just plug into any existing light strip. I always have a few "pre-built" controllers laying around. I usually use these to test new versions of WLED before deploying to my other installs. Good luck on your projects. Thanks for watching and taking time to comment!
I actually have used an ESP32 with sound-reactive WLED. In my floor lamp video, at the final version, in the background, I have an ESP32 with SR WLED installed in the entertainment center. Next I want to try the multi-strip control using a single controller, which is now available in the latest version of WLED. I may do a comparison of using an ESP8266 vs. ESP32 to see the performance differences.
@@ResinChemTech I would definitely be interested in a comparison. I have probably 50 d1 minis and maybe 6 32s in stock.
Just use a transistor and bias resistor to step the voltage up for strip, no need for a level shifter.
Full detail every time!
Great step by step. I did the same as far as monetization but yt plays plenty of ads on mine. Not that I'm eligible but still aggravating
Thanks... yeah, I threw that editorial in there because, at the time, RUclips had just changed their terms so that they reserved the right to serve ads on "any" video whether you were monetized or not. I was pretty ticked off about it at the time, as I felt the one thing my videos could offer were no annoying ads. And before this change, that was true... no ads at the start, no ads in the middle of the video, etc. Then all of a sudden... ads on all my videos!
So, when I did become eligible to monetize, I figured if there were going to be ads anyway, I might as well get a little tiny piece of that instead of letting RUclips keep it all! One somewhat nice thing (today at least) is that I can control the number and timing of any "mid-roll" ads that play in the middle of the video. I try to use those sparingly. My rule of thumb is no mid-roll ads for any videos shorter than 10 minutes. Then no more than one per every 10 minutes for longer videos. I really dislike channels that run ads every 2-3 minutes, as this is in their control and just seems like a 'money grab' to me... but that's just my opinion. And of course RUclips could always change this at some point as well and force mid-roll ads. I hope not!
If you are shooting for monetization... hang in there and keep making videos. You'll get there. For me, I had a video that had been out there a while (my stair video) and was just doing "OK". Then for some reason (still unknown to me), it exploded literally overnight. I was estimating it was going to take another 6 months to reach the threshold for monetization then suddenly in two days I had blown past both the number of subscribers and watch hours. So.. try to have some patience knowing that RUclips is serving ads on your videos and you aren't getting a piece of it (yet).
Thanks for watching and taking time to leave a comment!
Great instructional video I am wanting to do this on a switch that turns on LEDs when I open my cabinets
You could certainly do that! You could just replace the button with something like a magnetic reed switch. Just be aware of which GPIO pin you select for the reed switch if it is a normally-closed switch. If you used the same pin as I showed here with a normally-closed switch, the board would fail to boot up.
I talk a bit more about using buttons with WLED and this controller in my livestream on using buttons and remotes with WLED ( ruclips.net/video/Rwzrmjc5pf8/видео.html ). The part about buttons starts around the 6-7 minute mark.
As an alternative and to avoid the wires running from the door frame to the controller (and assuming you are using Home Assistant or some other automation platform), is to use something like a wireless/Zigbee door or window sensor on the cabinet door and have automation turn the LED lights on/off when the cabinet door opens or closes. This is just one other alternate way. Like most DIY projects, there are many ways to accomplish the same task!
Good luck with your project. Don't hesitate to reach back out if you have questions or run into any problem!
Great video… so helpful !!! Thank You very much !!! Keep going 👍
Thanks! Glad you found it helpful. And thanks for taking time to watch and posting a comment.
Great video! Love the detail and length of vid!
I tried reading through all the comments to make sure I wasn't going to ask something that you have already answered. I want to use this in an automotive application. If I'm understanding correctly I only need the wifi when changing color/sequences correct? If so is there another way to be able to use the controller away from wifi?
Again thank you for videos and all the information you share!
Thanks! As far as operating the system without wifi, you have a couple of options. First, if the controller isn't joined to wifi, it will broadcast its own hotspot (WLED-AP I believe). You can connect to this hotspot with your phone then enter 4.3.2.1 in a browser. This will give you an option to go straight to the controls (skipping the wifi onboarding). You will then have full access to the settings, colors, effects, etc. and can control the LEDs with your phone in the car.
The other option is to add one or two push buttons (the later versions of WLED, released after this video, adds an option for a second button). You can then define what you want those buttons to do... off/on, change colors or effects, start a playlist, etc. In this case, the control is completely local and you wouldn't need an external device at all (after you get all the configuration set up first).
So those are at least two different options for controlling the LEDs when wifi is not present. Hope that helps. And thanks for the feedback on video length.
@@ResinChemTech thank you very much! I really appreciate you taking the time to respond not only to me but ask those who leave you a comment or question!
Hello, thanks for this Great Video. I hope I can see more of this on your Channel. 👍
You're welcome! I hope you found it useful and I've been trying to do more full how-to videos.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the video. One day I'll prettify my apartment with your help =D
You are welcome! While most of my installs are to "prettify", I do have some practical installs as well. The wife loves the kitchen under cabinet lighting that I added (well.. when on solid white). I also added under cabinet lighting for my garage workbench and under the hutch of my desk in my office. The nice thing is that not only can they provide nice task lighting, all those WLED effects are there and available if needed or wanted to "prettify".
Great Video, I also like the 30 min format. Can you tell me what soldering station that you used? It seems to work very well. Did you add heat shrink tubing to the alligator clips? Thanks...
Thanks... and thanks for the feedback. Are you referring to the helping hands station? If so, this is what I use: amzn.to/3HXA44x
The alligator clips came with the protective coating. I like this station, but if I had a complaint, it seems that the small set screws that hold the alligator clips in place tend to work loose from time to time. No big deal, but I wanted to mention it.
The stand that holds the soldering iron is this one: amzn.to/3Dyrh6p but it is currently shown as unavailable (I'm sure something very similar could be located).
Finally, the soldering iron I'm using (and love... but unfortunately is also discontinued) is: amzn.to/3RlmXgt
Thanks for watching. Let me know if you have any additional questions!
Why not mount the button in the enclosure too? Less wires coming out and a cleaner looking project. Also add a barrel power connector female in the enclosure. So you just plugin the power and go.Could also use a single pin test port for the data wire. Just some thoughts! Cool little project to get rid of the bulkier boxes needed.
Thanks for the ideas. Actually, I have used different variations depending upon the install. For the button, I often like to hide away both the controller and power supply so that they are out of sight. So I run the button to an accessible location instead of mounting in/to the control box. I also use the barrel connector... especially with larger installs/higher amps. I also use things like mesh sleeve to keep wiring neat where it is going to be exposed. I guess there are a lot of different ways to modify the project, but for me, it often depends on the particular install situation. Thanks again for the comment.
I’m grateful for all of your videos. I’m in the middle of trying to build a controller but using the ESP32-DEVKIT-V1. I sure wish I would have used the “Mini” for this but already started down this road. I’m not sure which pins to use with my particular ESP32? Can you help direct me in how to use this setup?
The ESP32 (and the latest versions of WLED) can use most pins... and you just specify the pin used in the WLED settings. However, the default data pin for the ESP32 and WLED is GPIO16. I also just recently published a blog article with various different wiring diagrams for this same LED controller... including using the ESP32 (although it is the ESP32 mini, the same wiring/pins would apply to the full size ESP32 boards): resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2023/01/wiring-diagrams.html
I hope that helps. Let me know if you have any additional questions.
Exceptional Video! Anyway you could share the ESP32 electrocookie enclosure?
Thanks! The two enclosure designs are for the ElectroCookie mini and full size boards... regardless of whether an ESP8266 or ESP32 are used. For the "full size" NodeMCU style, both the ESP8266 and ESP32 will comfortably fit on the full size ElectroCookie version. For the "mini" versions, the ESP32 mini just barely fits on the mini ElectroCookie board and its use will be dependent upon the use of other components and your wiring needs. Regardless, you can find the designs for both the mini and full size ElectroCookie boards here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4969733
Awesome video! Where can I go to learn about the pins on the logic board?
Thanks! I guess you are referring to the logic level shifter? I do cover it in a little more detail in this video: ruclips.net/video/Q9mLitVxF3c/видео.html
But it really is a pretty simple device. You just feed a low voltage (3.3V) and ground to the LV and GND pins on one side. You then feed a high voltage (5V) and ground to the HV and GND pins on the other side. You can then feed your 3.3V data signal into any of the LV1 - LV4 pins on one side, and then get the 5V shifted signal out to the corresponding HV1 - HV4 pin on the other side. That's really all there is to the simple little device. If you have more than one signal, you can use a second (or even a third and fourth) pin to shift those data signal lines as well.
Thanks for watching. Don't hesitate to reach back out if you have any additional questions!
Can I get an explanation on how you hooked up the push button please?
It's pretty simple. Just hook the button up to ground and a GPIO pin (GPIO0 is the default for ESP8266/GPIO17 for ESP32). That's it. If you use different pins, define the pin you used in WLED settings. You can also change the default behaviors of the button (single, double, long press) within the WLED settings.
Thanks for the video!
Curious, which helping hands are you using?
You are most welcome.
These are the helping hands I am using. I like them except for the thumb screws that hold the alligator clips in place will occasionally work loose. Other than that, I don't have any complaints: amzn.to/45ECwFj
I like the longer videos myself. I think I'm a little lost. If I'm understanding right the shifter is connected to the d1 mini on high and low side but lights power from the d1 mini rail and data is the only connection passing through the shifter to the lights?.
I know you've started leaning towards to esp32 but still like the compaction of the d1 mini so I ordered some d1 minis, cookie board and shifters to use for educational purposes and small projects with 1m ws2812b.
One very important correction, and it is something I learned after making this video and I cover it in the related blog article and other later LED videos. Do not run the 5V power for your LEDs through the ElectroCookie board if you have anything more than just a few pixels. The ElectroCookie board is not rated for the amps that more than a few LEDs will draw.
Instead, you'll want to split the 5V and ground coming off your power supply. Run one 5V/gnd lead to the ElectroCookie to power the ESP and the shifter, then run a separate dedicated 5V and gnd directly to the LED strip.
But otherwise, you are correct. It is just the data line that will run through the shifter... to shift the outgoing 3.3V signal from the GPIO pin of the ESP up to 5V for running to the data line of the LED strip. I'd recommend taking a glance at the related blog ( resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2021/01/building-your-own-led-light-strip.html ) and scroll down where I talk about larger LED installations to see what I am referring to. Again, earlier in this blog, I show running the power for the LEDs through the board... but this should not be done if you have more than 10-15 pixels.
Love the videos, they are very clear; but just wondering...what brand of flux are you using and where might I get it?
Thanks! Most of the time, I just use a little liquid no clean flux in a pen. Here's a link for where I get it: amzn.to/3Jb4QpL
Hope that helps! I do also have a blog article (and a similar video) where I list all of my favorite and most commonly used items for my projects, including the above flux pen: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2022/04/my-favorite-items.html
Thanks for this! I have a question though: does the LED-animation remember the last setting once you power it on? I’d like to use it in a pinball machine and connect it to a flasher on the playfield so that when the flasher fires, the LED-strip fires with the correct animation.
It does remember the last setting, as long as power is not lost or the boot reboots. However even then you can save the current state (e.g. color, effect, brightness, etc) to a preset and tell WLED to load that preset whenever the board first powers up or reboots. So, yes, I think it can do what you are you are asking.
Great Video and you make it look so simple I am tempted to give it a try . Will you be doing a simular video where you add in the ethernet connector to give greater stability . Thanks
Thank you... I try to make my videos as easy to understand and follow as I can, with the goal of showing how to do it yourself or to give you ideas on how you might adapt the idea for your own projects. This really is a pretty simple project to get your feet wet with DIY projects and custom, local firmware.
Along those lines, I probably won't do anything with the controller in this video to add ethernet. If you are interested in something with an ethernet hat, you might take a look at the pre-built controller versions by Quindor over at Quinled. He offers multiple WLED controller options, including one with an ethernet connection: quinled.info/pre-assembled-quinled-dig-uno/ (If you go to either his store front, or Dr. Zzzs if in the US, you can see the options to add an ethernet hat). I simply don't have a need to do that as I don't have any ethernet connections available without making substantial wiring runs... and then having to try to hide that wiring.
First, let me say Thank you so much for answering my questions on LED strips. I have another question. I read your blog where you comment on the use of 12v strips. I have a rather long outside wall (~100 ft) and am considering lighting it. Thank you for the link to the step down buck converter for powering controllers off a 12v power supply. My question is whether the data line from the controller to the 12v strip has to be stepped up from the 3v to 12v and if so, do you have a 12v logic level shifter you recommend and can provide a link to? Additionally, have you run into a limit on how far one can run the data line (5v and 2v) before voltage drop renders it problematic?
First, you are welcome an I'm glad my answers (and videos) have been helpful. As to your current question:
The data signal is always 5V, regardless of whether the LED strips themselves are powered by 5V or 12V. So, the same logic level shifter to shift the data from 3.3V to 5V will work with either voltage of LED strips.
I should make another comment about 12V LED strips, and this may or may not matter to you depending upon your particular project. With 5V strips, each individual LED is controllable. In other words, the first LED could be red, the second LED blue and the third LED green. But with most 12V LEDs (like WS2811), the LEDs are only addressable in groups of 3. Using the above example, this means LEDs 1-3 would be red, LEDs 4-6 would be blue and LEDs 7-9 would be green. For something just like ambient lighting, you probably won't notice it. But it will be apparent with some WLED effects... as it has to treat each group of three LEDs "as one" in terms of the effects.
As far as maximum length of the data line between the controller and LED strip, if you are using the logic level shifter, I really can't say but it will be multiple feet. I have one install where I have at least 15 feet between the controller and the start of the LEDs, and with the shifter, I don't have a problem. Using larger gauge wire can also help reduce the voltage drop for these longer runs. I would definitely bench test it first before installing though, using the amount of wire for the data run you expect in the final install. For especially long runs... or if you have a problem, you could wire in a sacrificial pixel (or two if needed) along the line to boost the signal. Or you could purchase and install a special booster. Quindor over at QuinLED actually sells a prebuilt one: quinled.info/quinled-data-booster-for-sale/ But it would have to be a really long run before you'd need something like this and I'd probably just wire in sacrificial pixel along the way if needed. I don't have any real world testing, but I'm guessing you could easily run 20-30 feet with the use of a single sacrificial pixel at about the midpoint of the run (and WLED does have the option to skip the first pixel so that this one would not light up).
Sorry for the length, but hopefully I've given you some useful information for your questions.
Again, great tutorial. Question though, since I primarily use 12V LED strips I should be able to put in a LM7805 from a 12V power source and use the 12V leg to power the lights and the 5V leg to supply to the controller, correct?
Yep... that is correct. You can use a single 12V power source, as long as you step down the voltage to 5V for the controller (using whatever method works...LM7805, stepdown buck converter, etc.). Just assure any components used are rated to handle the current load. LEDs can draw a surprising amount of current, especially with larger installs and a higher number of pixels. On the 5V side, this shouldn't be a problem for the controller as it won't draw more than about 0.5A at most. But on the 12V LED side, a high amount of current could be needed to fully light all the LEDs. For 5V WS2812b LEDs, I use an estimated 0.06A per pixel. So, a 300 LED strip of lights could pull as much as 18A on full bright white. Get the rating for your 12V strip and multiple the max draw per pixel times the number of LEDs planned... and assure both the power supply and any components (and wiring) used on the power side are rated appropriately.
Thanks for watching! Let me know if you have any additional questions.
Is there any way you might consider updating this project and all of the accompanying diagrams to include a digital mic and esp32 (both mini and full size wroom for comparison.) Also, I'm a little confused about whether to run power from a 60amp external power supply thru this circuit. I was under the impression that "no, don't do it. the electrocookie will melt" but your diagrams show exactly that: running an external power supply right into the circuit. So what's the truth? (PS. I fully admit that there are some basic aspects to electricity and electronic projects that I still don't 100% grok. For instance, the metaphorical comparison between amperage and water pressure doesn't make a ton of sense to me..)
Yes... that video is almost 3 years old a bit dated at this point. I have done a significant number of other newer LED-related videos that show both updated diagrams and talk about proper power routing. You _can_ run through the ElectroCookie for a smaller number of LEDs... and a slightly more if you bridge the traces with higher gauge wire. Please refer to this video as one of many with updated information: ruclips.net/video/GZv5Ztj6i6I/видео.html
I also have a wiring diagram written guide that covers various wiring options and power runs for LED controllers: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2023/01/wiring-diagrams.html
Finally, I am currently working on a new video and written guide for wiring and configuring different peripherals to a WLED controller, including a digital INMP441. But in the interim, I show how to wire this mic in both my LED curtain video and related blog article.
Do you have a similart video but using an ESP32? I am having a bunch of connection issues with these now (althought I hear it may be related to wifi mesh I am using). But I wanted to try a ESP32 in place of the D1 mini ESP8266.
I don't have a full video, but the wiring is really identical, using the 5V, 3.3V and GND pins on the ESP32. The only real difference (other than the pins being in different locations) is that the default LED data pin for the ESP32 is GPIO16 instead of the D4/GPIO2 on the ESP8266. Even then, there are other GPIO pins you can now use with WLED... you just tell it in the setup which pin you are using.
While I don't have a video, I do have at least one example of wiring up an ESP32 mini and you can find that here: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2023/01/wiring-diagrams.html But in essence, the process for the ESP32 and ESP8266 are identical. It's just that the pins for 5V, 3.3V and GND are in different spots depending on the exact board you are using, and the default LED data line for the ESP32 is GPIO16 instead of GPIO2. Otherwise, all the wiring, flashing and general use are identical between the two different ESP types.
Hope that helps... let me know if you have any additional questions.
Hello I love your staircase lights I want to do the same but I'm confused on how you upload the software on the D1 Mini what did you use to upload it with because I do not have a computer .. I want my staircase lights to do all the functions yours does ... also if I paid extra do you like make like the entire kit to sell already pre done so I have to do is install it and hook it up
Thanks! Well, I have two different staircase videos, but I think the one you are referring to requires home automation software called Home Assistant to be running on a computer in your house. I have another video on a standalone stair system that doesn't require Home Assistant (but has fewer features), however both do require a computer to upload the software to the D1 Minis. If you look in the video description for either one of these videos, you will find a link to a written version of the project that includes information on how to load (or flash) the software onto the D1 Minis.
Unfortunately, I'm not able to sell kits for this project. Each individual install would be unique to the length of a particular set of stairs, where power outlets are located, how the motion detectors should be mounted, etc. Plus, to be honest, trying to box and ship those long aluminum channels would make the whole thing too cost-prohibitive. I'm happy to answer any questions to help you build your own, but unfortunately I'm not set up to build and sell them myself.
Perfectly detailed! I'm just getting into this. I feel like I'm late to the LED game, but I did like you mentioned at the beginning and just used the remote controlled versions.
My first need is for a few shorter strips as highlights and maybe triggered notifications through home assistant or the like.
If I use an ESP32 with a 2 or 2.5 amp USB power to the ESP, how many LED's (WS2812B) can I run without needing extra power?
Well, you need to allow for 0.06 A per LED pixel for full bright white. Less brightness and/or other colors will use less... but you should always allow for the maximum. And I always allow around 500 mA for the controller itself. So, with a 2.5 amp USB that would mean only around 33 pixels (2A / 0.06)... and around 25 for a 2A USB (1.5A / 0.06).
Now do NOT try to power the LEDs directly off the 5V and ground pins of the ESP board. The board is not designed to handle much current (rule of thumb is no more than ~500 mA) and you will likely damage or destroy the board trying to do so. Ideally, you should always run power in parallel.. one run to the LED strips and a separate run to the LEDs. But with s small number of LEDs (say < 30), you can probably run the power through something like the ElectroCookie board... but parallel power runs are always the best... and safest... option. You might take a look at a recent blog article that I did, especially the section under "Connecting and Powering LED strips": resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2023/01/wiring-diagrams.html
This particular video is one of the earlier ones that I did (I've done a lot more since then) and I have also learned since then that it always better to run your power in parallel.... but you can run through a protoboard for a very small number of LEDs. I also just recently did a video on creating a WLED controller on a breadboard in 15 minutes.... and I also discuss power and how to run the power in that video: ruclips.net/video/dXLOqGa-n5A/видео.html - I do recommend a soldered version, but the power calculations and connections are the same for either type.
Good luck and please let me know if you have any additional questions.
@@ResinChemTech More than plenty. Thank you. The controller will be mounted within a couple inches of the ESP32. Do you think that the logic level converter is necessary if I turn off the first LED?
I never even realized that was necessary, and nobody ever seems to mention it in their videos. But I noticed a lot do turn off the first LED, and that may be why. They're using it as the level converter.
While I always use and recommend a logic level shifter to assure a good data signal, you can probably get away without one if you keep the controller close to the LED strip. A single pixel can be used as a shifter (since a pixel boosts the signal to 5 V just like the shifter). But you would normally cut off a pixel, solder it in close to the controller and then that allows you to have the rest of the LED strip further away from the controller. Unless you are "sacrificing" a pixel in this manner, there is no reason to turn off the first pixel if it is still part of the the strip... it does nothing for you. People often skip the first pixel because it is "standalone" near the controller and detached from the rest of the strip and they don't want that stray pixel to be lit.
Ultimately the decision to use a shifter is yours. But I've had numerous people contact me with misbehaving LEDs (flickering, wrong colors, not showing the right pattern, etc.) and these issues are almost always solved by adding the shifter. For me, it is easier to just add the shifter during the build, than waiting for a problem to occur and then trying to go back and add a shifter after the project is done and installed. At least be sure to do a full bench test before final installation if you do opt to omit the shifter. If you want to see what can happen when a signal isn't boosted, you can watch my video that talks about the shifter and whether you really need it or not: ruclips.net/video/Q9mLitVxF3c/видео.html
@@ResinChemTech Added to my queue and ordered some logic level shifters! Thanks for all the help! I feel dumb when it comes tot his, but like many, I invested in the commercial side rather than building my own! Not any more!
Ha... just be forewarned! Once you build your first one, it likely won't be your last! I have somewhere close to 30 different LED installs now. The nice part is no cloud service, no questionable manufacturer's apps on your phone collecting your data, etc. etc. Not to mention it is significantly cheaper to build your own!
And don't ever feel dumb! We all start out somewhere. In fact, I made mistakes in this very video that I learned about later (like trying to run high current through the board instead of running power in parallel). And I've fried more than my fair share of components (ESP boards, potentiometers, etc. - they call it Ohm's LAW for a reason... and not Ohm's Suggestion... a fact I've learned on numerous occasions!). But that's all part of the learning process... and luckily the parts and components are usually relatively cheap. But there are many folks, myself included, that do these videos, posts, etc. mainly to try to help others. So please don't hesitate to reach back out if you run into any other questions along the way.
When I built a WLED controller with an ESP32, I found that I could not use the MOSFET based level shifters like the one shown in this video. I'm assuming they weren't fast enough, I did have what looked like an appropriate signal when I tested it with an oscilloscope but never got the lights to work. I ended up going with a TXS0108E based level shifter and haven't had a single problem with it, but 8 channels is a little overkill when I'm only using one.
I've had others mention the same issue, particularly in the video where I specifically shows what can happen when you opt to skip the shifter altogether. I personally have not had a problem with this shifter, but granted that most of my WLED installs use ESP8266... but I do have a couple that are ESP32. I think the problem might be more pronounced with larger numbers of pixels? I do have an ESP32 with that shifter driving 800+ pixels on my back porch and haven't seen an issue... but I haven't really looked closely to see if there is any jitter in any of the animations, as these lights are generally just a single solid color.
But based on what I've read and heard from others, there very well could be an issue with speed, especially if you are using a large number of pixels and are looking for very smooth animation effects. Regardless of which shifter you select, I still maintain it is better to use a shifter and boost the data signal to 5V than to omit it altogether... although I fully understand that it is possible to skip the shifter if you keep the data run short (or use a sacrificial pixel). But I'd rather always err on the side of caution and assure a good signal, and not have to worry about the length of that data run (well, within reason anyway).
But I appreciate you sharing your results. I am not enough of an expert to say why this shifter might work in some situations but not in others. I just haven't had an issue with any of my two dozen or so WLED installs... but I might see the problem in a future install... who can say?
@@ResinChemTechI think it might have to do with who made the MOSFET based shifters, I suspect I might have had better luck with the Afafruit or SparkFun version of the shifter than the cheaper ones I bought on Amazon. I know there are resistors and capacitors that affect how fast the MOSFETs can switch the signal, so it's possible that different manufacturers use different values for those parts. If I remember correctly, I ended up using the TXS0108E because Afafruit recommended either that specific part or an equivalent one that I couldn't find at the time.
Absolutely a possibility! I've sure had my share of 'sub-standard' components that didn't work (ESP boards that wouldn't flash, etc.) If I find something that works, I generally try to stick with that same manufacturer/seller even if the component costs a bit more... and everything I recommend or link to in my videos/blogs are the components that I actually used (unless discontinued... then I try to find the best equivalent). But even past success doesn't mean you won't get a bad lot of components from the same seller at some point.
I do appreciate you sharing your experiences. It might help someone else (or me!) at some point down the road if I have an install that doesn't seem to want to work. And thanks for the follow up.
oh my god
amazing .
You say in your blogpost: 'you may want to consider adding a 1000 μF (microfarad) capacitor on the incoming 5V power line'.
Where would you connect this using a single Wemos D1 mini?
As I think I mentioned, the capacitor is optional and is meant to protect either the controller and/or LED strip from power surges... most likely when plugging in the power supply. I used to include them in my projects, but rarely do anymore and I haven't had any issues.
However, if you do want to add the capacitor, you want to add it "upline" as close to the power supply as you can. If you are using a 'transformer style' power supply with screw terminals, you can add it there (just be sure to observe the (+) and (-) legs on the capacitor. If you are splitting your 5V line to make parallel runs to the controller and LED strip, you can insert the capacitor there. Finally, if you are only looking to add it to only the controller, you can install it across the +5V and GND connections where the lines are incoming to your controller board.
But the controller will function just fine if you opt not to include it. Its true intent is to just 'smooth out' the power feeding to the controller.
@@ResinChemTech ok, thanks for your clear explanation!
@ResinChem Tech what are those 4 rubber feet things youre using to mount the electrocookie board to around the 11:42 minute mark called? I would like to purchase some.
I think you are referring to the helping hands? This is the one I used and shown in the video: amzn.to/3VIk9ww
If that's not what you are referring to, please let me know.
@@ResinChemTech yes, thanks.
Suggestion for dancing led
Do you mean something like having the LEDs 'dance' to music? If so, you can attach a microphone to the controller and use the sound reactive version of WLED. I've done a few videos with the sound-reactive version. You can find them listed in this playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLqjDNeOVHOkf079FYwRLRoOHJwLijKkP3
FYI: If you are running a Mac then the Web installer seems to fail. As I am not pooter tech savvy there is a simple solution no doubt. I tried the install today and I kept getting cannot initialize error. It could very well be my OS. Mac is older and can't run the latest OS. The Web updater will not work in Firefox either. Needs to be Edge or Chrome. Once I popped over to an MS Winblows pooter it updated just fine (after a driver install). Just a heads up.
Thanks for the heads-up. I'm not a Mac guy, nor do I even own one, so I haven't run into this problem. Probably something that should be reported to the WLED developers (I have nothing to do with the WLED firmware, although I think it is already known and the tech used to flash via the web does, in fact, require Chrome or Edge). But for future reference, you can always download the .bin file from the Github repo for WLED and use a Mac-compatible flashing application to flash the .bin onto your ESP board. No, it's quite as automatic and easy as using the web installer, but this is how WLED (and other similar firmware) was installed before the web version was available. And a lot of other firmware (like most of mine that I use for other projects) do not have a web installer, so the download and local flashing is the only way to install the firmware. So, it's not a bad idea to have a local flashing application and be familiar with using it anyway.
But I do appreciate you sharing your experience. It may help others that use a Mac.
Can you power the MINI1 with a USB then, take the 5V out of the MINI1 directly to the leds (3 feet led strip), without installing the shifter?
You can skip the shifter if you keep the controller close to the start of the LEDs... but if you try to power any more than just a few pixels via the 5V pin of the D1 Mini, you will very likely destroy it. The D1 Mini (or any ESP board) is not designed to handle the high current required by LEDs
The rule of thumb is no more than about 500 mA of current. Since normal RGB LEDs can pull up to around 60 mA per pixel, you could only run about 8 pixels safely. Anything higher than that might work for a short time, but will likely fry the ESP. I talk about this in a number of blog articles but also cover the proper way to power both your ESP and the LEDs in my recent video on building an LED controller without soldering (but the same concepts apply to this soldered version): ruclips.net/video/dXLOqGa-n5A/видео.html
I've helped a number of people who have fried multiple ESP boards before they understood that the current draw from the LEDs are too high to pass through the ESP board when they try to power the LEDs from the board's 5V pin.
I think missed where powering the LEDs from, is it from the logic level shifter or from the D1 mini, Thanks
Neither. Unless you are only using a few pixels, you should power the LEDs directly from the power supply. Split your 5V power leads (+5 and GND) and run one set to the controller board and the other set directly to the LED strip. Neither the ESP board nor a breadboard/ElecroCookie board are designed for the amps that will be needed to power anything more than a few pixels. Please see my related blog article that have wiring diagrams for all of this and should answer most of your questions: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2021/01/building-your-own-led-light-strip.html
@@ResinChemTech Thank you
Good video
These types of videos are the best, Thanks, I'm trying to install WLED on esp32, but after selecting Install WLED, it says, Failed to initialise, Try resetting the device or holding the BOOT button while clicking INSTALL, but nothing changing, any advice, thank you
Failed to initialize usually means that it cannot connect or 'talk' to the ESP board. This could be for a number of reason. First off, have you previously flashed any other ESP32 (with any type of firmware) on the same computer? If not, you might not have the right driver installed. Assuming you are using Windows, after you connect the ESP32 to the USB port, check device manager. You should see a new COM port appear and it should be listed as something like "CP210x USB to UART" (ESP8266 will show as CH340). If you don't see something similar to this, then you may need to locate and install the driver for your machine... I've had to do this on two different machines, but one other machine already had the right driver installed.
Next, assuming you have the right driver, assure the USB cable you are using to connect to the computer supports data and isn't just a power cord. Try a different USB cable if you have one.
I've also had a few ESP32 boards that were difficult to get into flash mode. Try holding down the boot button down BEFORE plugging the device into USB and continue to hold the button down until the flash actually starts installing (connection is made), then you can release the button. It may take a few tries as it is easy to inadvertently release that tiny button without realizing it.
Finally, if you have another board, you might try that. I had a 5 pack of ESP32s from a certain manufacturer and I never could get 2 out of those 5 to flash, no matter what I did. I no longer buy from that seller, and haven't had a problem since, but it is possible that you have a faulty or non-standard board.
Those are my initial thoughts. Let me know what you find or if I can help any further.
@@ResinChemTech Also will try to BOOT to see if any change too, thank you
@@ResinChemTech the BOOT didn’t work, I probably take the board back and get new one
i ordered a strip and dig-uno few days ago 😅
The DigUno (and DigQuad) are great devices and are a simply plug-and-play solution that gets you up and running with WLED quickly and easily... when you can find them in stock. And while I have both, personally I enjoy the process... and much lower cost... of building my own controller. I've done so many now that I can build one from scratch in about 20 minutes. But I also enjoy the soldering and building my own stuff and I know that's not for everyone. In that case, the DigUno is a great option.
Good luck with your project. If this is your first install with LED strips and WLED, I'm going to bet it won't be your last! They are pretty addictive, and after you install one, you'll starting looking for opportunities to install more.
@@ResinChemTech it is my first and i know it's not my last 😂
I'm a little confused by the complexity of the circuit you have illustrated.
I have put together my first D1 Mini based WLED strip this week. The LED strip has 5 wires. 5V, Gnd, Signal, additional 5V, and additional Gnd (latter 2 for feeding 5V at higher current into the strip).
I fed 5V and Gnd from my regulated power supply into the two higher current wires and used the 5V, Gnd and Signal to power and provide signal to the strip (D4, G, 5V) using the existing JST-SM 3 Pin connector that came with the strip to connect direct to 3pins I soldered onto the board (needed to swap over signal and Gnd to align with the D1 Mini pin layout).
I wanted to understand the benefit of all the extra wiring and components added into your circuit? What additional capabilities are delivered through your circuit vs the simplistic way I've gone about things (maybe naively)?
Well.. a few things to note here if I am understanding you correctly. First off, the "extra" wires (the addition 5V and ground) are provided should you need to do power injection for longer strip installs. The manufacturer just adds the extra wires at the start and end of each strip for convenience... they do not have to be used for shorter runs and you do not have to use both sets at the beginning. Power injection is needed due to voltage drop along the strip (each LED adds just a tiny bit of resistance, causing the voltage to drop. Eventually, it drops low enough that the LEDs do not have enough voltage to fully light). Connecting both sets of wires at the beginning of the strip really doesn't provide "extra current" (although technically it could help if you have large current and thin wiring).
Next, if I have more than just a few pixels, I run the 5V power to the LEDs and controller in parallel. This is because the LEDs can pull a fair amount of current that adds up quickly (0.06A per LED for full bright white). The D1 Mini is only rated for a max throughput of around 500mA (about 8-9 LEDs). I don't have a rating on the ElectroCookie board, but based on the trace sizes, I would not want to run more than an amp or two through that board. That means if you are going to run more than around 15 or so LEDs, it is probably not a good idea for that power to pass through the board (and it will eventually fry the controller if you try to run it through the ESP board, using the 5V and GND pins there). By splitting the power run in parallel, the LEDs will draw current directly from the power supply. The only connection between the controller and LEDs is the data signal line (and a common ground... but that's at the power supply source).
So, in short, neither the ElectroCookie board nor the ESP board are rating for handling the amps that are required for a larger number of LEDs. Can you get away with it? Maybe.. but you run the risk of either frying the ESP board and/or melting the ElectroCookie (and a resulting fire risk). Again, if you are only planning on a handful of pixels, you might be OK. But if you are going to run something like 200-300 LEDs, running the power through the board is a very bad idea.
I hope that helps explain why I wire the installs the way I do. I have a related blog article that shows different wiring options for the LED controller, but there is also a section on sizing the power supply and creating parallel power connections that might be helpful: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2023/01/wiring-diagrams.html
Of course, you are free to try it anyway you like. I used to do the same when first starting out. But experience (and helping a lot of others who couldn't understand why their install kept failing), has taught me that parallel power is the better and safer way to do it.
@@ResinChemTech Thanks for the explanation and link to your other content. It was a good read.
I possibly didn't explain myself well in my earlier comment. I am in fact running the 5V in parallel. I'm running the a 5V regulated supply into what you refer to as the 'extra wires' and then leveraging the JST-SM 3 pin connector already fitted to the LED strip to connect 5V, GND and Signal into the D1 Mini via a 3 pin header. At no point am I expecting the D1 to 'supply' power into the LED strip. It is in fact power by the strip via the power fed into the 'extra wires' by my power supply. This gives me a very simple and clean install, with minimal wiring.
I appreciate that the reasoning for the use of the logic level shifter is to uplift the 3.3V Signal to 5V for the LED strip, but this is ideally optional in the event that you are running a longer signal cable between your D1 Mini and the LED strip (i.e. more than 30cm/6 inches). Under that distance, a 3.3V signal has been reliable across a few strips that I been experimenting with. Most LED strips seem to have a very short cable (e.g. 7cm) with a JST-SM connector attached, which should be more than appropriate for a 3.3V signal without any noticeable voltage drop or reliability issues. My aim has been to make things as simple and small as possible.
Have you found a 3.3V signal to be unreliable in your experience? If so, which LED strip did you use and how long was the distance between the D1 and the LED strip that resulted in the signal becoming unreliable and the need for the LLS?
Thanks!
The use of the logic level shifter has been debated to death, here and elsewhere. Do you absolutely have to have it? No, not always... in many cases, with a short data line between the controller and LEDs, you can often skip it. Do I recommend it (and always include in my builds)? Yes... for me, assuring I always have a good data signal is worth the $1 cost of the shifter and a few extra minutes of soldering. I don't want to complete an install then discover I have a signal problem after the fact.
Yes... the LEDs will work at 3.3V, although the specs call for 5V. But also note that not every board and LED strip is manufactured with the exact same tolerances. One install that works just fine with a given data lead length might experience problems with the exact same setup using a different ESP and LED strip. But the choice is completely yours... that's why it is called DIY. You can include a shifter, use a sacrificial pixel, or skip boosting the data signal altogether. However, as I mentioned, for the $1 and a few extra minutes, I opt to always include the shifter in my LED installs.
@@ResinChemTechThanks. That makes perfect sense! And a huge thanks for taking the time to respond so comprehensively to my comments/questions. The information provided in the video, comments and write-ups are greatly appreciated.
Apologies for bringing up a point that has been debated to death :) I wasn't aware.
No apology necessary. I should probably apologize to you! It's just a bit of a sore spot... as I've had dozens and dozens of people tell me that a shifter isn't needed. So many in fact, that I did a video specifically covering the logic level shifter, why I recommend it and what **could** happen in some situations if you omit it ( ruclips.net/video/Q9mLitVxF3c/видео.html ). I have also said in numerous videos where I include the shifter, that while you may be able to get away without it, I still recommend using it (and why), but the ultimate decision to include it or omit it is yours. I do know that the first time you end up having a signal problem after installation will likely convince you to include it on all your future projects. At least it did for me!
So, apologies on my end. I shouldn;t have jumped on the comment as hard as I did. Thanks for understanding... and thanks for your kind words. Good luck with your projects!
I like it I am learning
That's great! That's what I try to do on my channel... teach others some of the things I learned, and to give back for those that helped me when I was first staring out.
Thanks for watching... and if you run into any questions, don't hesitate to ask!
Why not use the 5v power output on the d1?
Do you mean to power the LED strip? If so, it is because the D1 Mini (and other related ESP boards) are only rated for max current throughput of around 500 milliamps... meaning you could only power around 8 LEDs at full power. Attempting to push more current through the controller will very likely result in damage to controller (or worse). Even the prototype boards or breadboards are only rated for a few amps, so you generally need to run power from the power supply directly to the LED strips as well to separately to the controller for anything larger than a handful of LED pixels. If you only need to light a couple of pixels, you could probably get away with using the 5V pin.
Does this work with windows 11 ? I’m having lots of trouble with finding the right driver to recognize the ESP8266
It *should* work with Windows 11... once you find the right driver. My primary machines are still Windows 10, but I was able to install a driver and WLED using a Windows 11 machine. First go to your machine's manufacturer website and see if you can find a 'USB to UART', 'Serial IO' driver (or similar). I do know that Lenovo is one brand that I could not get a generic driver to work, but the one from Lenovo did the trick. If you can't find something on the manufacture's web site, then you might try a generic driver like this one: www.silabs.com/developers/usb-to-uart-bridge-vcp-drivers This was the driver that worked on my Windows 11 machine... and I was able to flash an ESP8266 NodeMCU with WLED after installing the driver. Good luck!
Where I can buy that small blue board that you soldered logic level shifter on it or what do you call that small blue board with holes.
Thank you
It's called an ElectroCookie Solderable Breadboard. Here's an Amazon Affiliate link to them: amzn.to/3elrZH8
FYI... I've updated the video description with links to all of the parts I used to build the controller.
@@ResinChemTech
Thank you sir.
Hello,
I have the same level shifter.
Unfortunately I could not find out how to connect it.
Many greetings
juck.
Hi Juck,
There is a wiring diagram at 10:23 of the video. In addition, you can see a wiring diagram on my related blog post at resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2021/01/building-your-own-led-light-strip.html.
But basically, you are going to connect the 5V pin of the D1 Mini/NodeMCU to the HV pin of the logic level shifter. Then connect the 3.3V pin from the board to the LV pin. Connect ground on both sides to a ground pin of the board. Then connect the output signal pin from the board (usually D4) to any one of the four available channels on the low side of the logic level shifter (LV1 - LV4). Then connect the output to the LED strip on the HV side (HV1-HV4), using the same channel as on the low side.
Can you tell me what brand of solder helper you are using? Thanks
I assume you are talking about the helping hands? If so, here's the one that I use: amzn.to/3vNwF4z I've been pretty happy with it and have been using it for over four years now.
If that was not what you were talking about, just let me know.
@@ResinChemTech yes thanks. That is what I was looking for. I especially liked the 4 pillars to go along with the 4 clips
Great video, thanks for posting it. I enjoy the detail rich videos when I am trying to research and learn. I am actully trying to build a WLED controller to run LED Strips in a sign I'm building for my business. I have my LED Strips (BTF Lighting WS2812B) and my power supply (BTF 5V 20AMP 100 Watts) and my development board (ESP8266 NodeMCU CP2102 ESP-12E Development Board). I learned by your video about the electrocookie board and that I will have to use the larger board with my 8266 chip choice, plus I had no idea until watching this video I needed the Logic Level Shifter to supply 5V to the LED Strips. So, I have those in my cart on Amazon as well. BUT, what I dont have, and am having trouble finding, is a suitable project box that has standoffs built in that fit that electrocookie board. Is there something you could point me towards? I am excited to try this project out, I've never built anything like this before. I am a John Deere Mechanic of 27 years, and wanting to learn electronics better, and what better way than to build my own LED controller board! Thanks for any advice you can give me.
Welcome to the world of DIY LEDs and electronics! Just a fair warning that it can become addictive!
As far as a project box, I don't know of anything with built-in standoffs for the Electrocookie board. It wasn't very far into my own DIY electronics journey that I realized I needed a 3D printer to print enclosures and other parts that just couldn't be found anywhere. However, prior to having the printer, I used to use small electronic project boxes similar to this: amzn.to/3G0Y9Gx (be sure to check dimension of your project against the inside size of the enclosure). Yeah... you will likely have to drill or cut your own openings, but these boxes can be drilled or cut pretty easily.
As far as standoffs, I would sometimes use small rubber gaskets or even a small M2 screw and nut through the Electrocookie mounting holes to create "legs" for the board. Then I'd just use some hot glue to hold things in place. Hot glue is your friend for these types of projects!
I hope that is somewhat helpful. Good luck with your project... and don't hesitate to reach back out if you have additional questions!
@@ResinChemTech Yeah I kind of got carrie away when I put RGBIC LED Cafe Lights on my back porch, then bought Govee Cafe Lights this winter to use as Christmas Lights on the house, plus some Govee bulbs and strip lights. Wasnt happy with the strip lights, and started researching building my own. That's when I realized I could probably cut off the factory controllers from these Govee lights and wire in my own controllers to run them, and I could also do my own backlit business sign using the same controllers, and now my imagination is running wild LOL. Already thinking about designing some automotive setups as well for our shop truck, gotta figure out the process first on this trial run one before I get TOO ahead of myself LOL!
Where do I get the 3d case for the board
Please see the video description. There is a link there for the enclosure design files. You can either print yourself or send to an online 3D printing service to have them printed for you.
Do you happen to know if I click your affiliate link and add the item to my "things to buy" list on amazon.. and I purchase them later, do you still get the commission?
Thanks for your feedback in your other comment... and for your support by utilizing my Amazon Affiliate links! I do use what little I make towards future projects, and this really does help out the channel.
It's a little murky, but the way I read it, if you go to Amazon via any of my links, it starts a 24 hour window for purchase of any items unless you later return using someone else's affiliate link. So in the case of adding something to your "wish list" or 'things to buy' list, as long as you return to Amazon using any of my links (it doesn't have to be the particular item you are going to buy.. any of the links will start a new "session"), you could add those other items to your shopping cart and the channel will still get credit for any items you purchase during that visit. Thanks again for asking... and considering supporting the channel!
@@ResinChemTech Oh this is great information. I will just come back here and click any of your links before making my purchase. Thanks again!!
Hi again, nice videos btw. I have a question about power drawing. Are breadboards capable to handle 4amps per channel or is it better to connect the power for the strips separately from the breadboard?
For very small installs, you can run the power for the LED strips through the breadboard (but NOT through the controller... don't power your LEDs directly off the 5V pin of the ESP8266/32 - these are only meant for a few hundred milliamps - it might work for a while, but odds are you will blow the controller). For anything that is going to draw more than about 1-2 amps, I'd highly recommend that you run the power in parallel from the power supply to the controller and the LED strips. I show a diagram of this wiring in my related blog article to this video: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2021/01/building-your-own-led-light-strip.html - check the section labeled "For Larger LED installations"
Brilliant video. question am I right that need to have one Wemos D1 Mini every 5 mtr reel of WS2812B ? because I notice in start of your clip - ws2012b strip at your pool table and other ws2012b strip elsewhere in your room...
No, not necessarily. I'm using different controller for a number of reasons, but mostly because running the wiring from the strip in one area (like the pool table) to another strip in a different area (like the dart board) would not get a very high WAF (wife-approval-factor)! I tend to use a separate controller for installs in different locations to minimize exposed wiring... it also allows different installs to have different colors/effects from the others.
The D1 Mini will support up to around 500 (give or take) LEDs and still have good performance, according to the official WLED web site ( kno.wled.ge/features/multi-strip/ ). Moving up to an ESP32, you can move up to 800-1000 LEDs from a single controller pin and still get good performance. So, assuming your LED strip is 5 m of 60 LEDs/m, that's only 300 LEDs total... which a single D1 mini can handle with no issues.
You are more likely going to need to consider power injection at the end of your strip (as opposed to a separate controller), as each LED zaps just a little bit of voltage due to resistance. By the time you get to the end of the strip, the voltage drop will be enough to impact both the brightness and color of the LEDs. I discuss power injection in a number of my LED videos (and related blog articles), but will be releasing a new video in a couple of weeks that addresses a number of common LED questions and will include information on power injection. Or you can simply search 'LED power injection' to find a wealth of information about it. 300 LEDs is about the limit before power drop becomes an issue. I'd try testing the full strip with your controller before installation to see if power injection might be needed.
Good luck with your project! Note that this particular video is a bit outdated (although still applicable) and I have a number of other more recent LED-related videos that you can find here: ruclips.net/p/PLqjDNeOVHOkf079FYwRLRoOHJwLijKkP3
@@ResinChemTech Many thanks for reply which it mean hell alots. I am ok with power/voltage drop sides as i am electrician myself. I just interesting wondering... about what max length of wire core signal data between controller to WS2812 strips. Thinking of every Ws2812 strips getting powers from power packs elsewhere... just the data signal.
Ideal is one cupboards full of controllers only (Like Brains cupboard) with all signal outputs to every strips in whole house? and less running cables. like you said WAF :-)
For the data line, as long as you are using a logic level shifter and boosting the data line to 5V, you can run quite a distance from the controller to the start of the LEDs. My longest distance is around 15 feet, but I'm not sure of the max. The LEDs are expecting a 5V data signal... although they will generally still function with a data signal down around 3.2-3.3V (that's why people say you don't need the shifter if you keep your data line very short). But by boosting to 5V, you can run quite a distance before the voltage drops below minimum and causes problems.
If you have an exceptionally long run, you can use a 'sacrificial pixel' along the data line. Since each LED pixel automatically boost the data signal to 5V before passing along to the next LED, you can use a single LED as a sort of 'in-line' booster. You can also purchase a pre-built data line booster ( quinled.info/quinled-data-booster-for-sale/ ). But with either method, it does require 5V and GND at the booster point. I'm guessing this is most common in situation like outdoor Christmas lights where you might have a long run between LEDs.
Hope that info helps. Let me know if you have additional questions.
@@ResinChemTech Thanks again, will noted that in my mind. what cable you use for data.. so i use copper and it seem to be interfere. when i not touch the wires.. colours from ws2812 seem odds.... i touched the data wire between controller and ws2812 - ws2812 playing leds correct colours.. weird!
what sort of wire you use for long run?
I generally just use 20 gauge copper wire... maybe 18 gauge for a longer run. It almost sounds to me like you have a grounding issue. Check all your ground connections. Are you possibly using two different power supplies... one for the controller and one for the LEDs? If you do this, you must establish a common ground connection between the controller and LEDs... or between the two different power supplies... or strange things will happen like you are describing. I don't have any issues or see any LED changes when I touch any of my data lines... so I'd start by looking at your grounds. In addition, if you have a long run where your data line is in parallel with the ground line, this sometimes requires a resistor on the data line. Take a look at that data line booster I linked to above for recommended resistor values if that is truly your problem.
Enjoyed your video. I'm running WLED on a couple of nodemcus and everything works great however when I cycle power I have to hit the reset button on the board to get it to restart. Any Ideas?
Couple of thoughts.... check your LED preferences under Config for default options after a power-up/reboot. Next, I always disable the WiFi sleep option under the WiFi settings. I do have a couple of older versions of WLED controllers that occasionally drop off the network and I have to power cycle to get back online. As a last resort, if possible, try reflashing the board with the latest version of WLED. I've had boot loops occur, but those generally were with older versions of WLED.
Where can i pick up one of those boxes to put this controller in? And the prototyping board you use?
As a general rule, most of my how-to videos have a related blog article that contain links to all the parts used, wiring diagrams, etc. and is listed in the video description. As to your particular requests:
The enclosures are 3D printed parts that I designed myself. You can find the .stl files on Thingiverse. There are two files, one for the mini and one for the full size: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4969733
And here's an Amazon affiliate link to the ElectroCookie prototype boards that I used: amzn.to/2NXj8Bv
Let me know if you have any other questions!
Would i need a Logic level shifter even if Im using ESP32? I would be using a WS2815 with 12V power Supply and for my 5 meter roll which is 60led/Meter
Both the ESP8266 and ESP32 output 3.3V on the GPIO pins, so it really doesn't make any difference as far as the logic level shifter is concerned. Again, you can sometimes get away without the shifter if you keep the wiring between the controller and first LED of your strip short. But I always like to add the $1 shifter to assure a full 5V signal and not have to worry about wire length or problems related to a poor signal.
I have another video that shows what can happen to the LEDs with a signal where the voltage drops too low and how the shifter fixes it: ruclips.net/video/Q9mLitVxF3c/видео.html
And of course as you probably know, you will need to drop down the 12V from your power supply to 5V for the controller using a buck converter or similar. The ESP8266 (or ESP32) won't be very happy if you try to feed it 12V! Let me know if you have any other questions!
@@ResinChemTech Thank you so much for the ultrafast reply... Requesting if you already have a video on Using Buck Converter so i can bring 12V down to 5V for ESP 32
I don't have a video specifically covering a buck converter for a WLED controller, but I do cover it somewhat in my video on using an old PC fan as a soldering fan. The concept is the same, though... taking a 12V power supply and using a buck converter to step it down to 5V for an ESP8266: ruclips.net/video/PvCY0ZnRIgc/видео.html
Maybe that can get you started in the right direction. If not, feel free to reach back out and I'll try to assist further.
Good evening Resinchem Tech and everyone,I was wondering if you could give me a bit of guidance on purchasing an 5inch lcd or similar screen please,Im looking to use wled and home assistance on it to work my 12v strip lights on my stairs,I’m hoping this is achievable so I can finish my project ,many thanks Paul.
Hi Paul. I think I responded to this over under the stair video, but any tablet will work that either runs Android, iOS or has a web browser. Both Home Assistant and WLED have dedicated mobile apps for Android and iOS... and both can also be accessed with any modern web browser. There are a lot of Android tablets in the 7-8" range that would work nicely with both Home Assistant and WLED.
Good afternoon Resinchem Tech, thank you for the advice, I’m building controller using a d1 mini ,I was wondering where can I purchase the plastic enclosure for my controller ,all so will this controller work on 12V strip lights? Many thanks for your time Paul.
Hi Paul. Again, I responded to your question about 12V strips in your comment/question under the stair lights video, but what I said was:
"As far as the 12V LED strips, you will obviously need to step that voltage down to 5V for the controller via a buck converter or other means (the D1 Mini will go "poof" if you try to feed it 12V). If you use separate power sources for the LEDs and the controller, then you must have a common ground between the controller and the LED strip or things won't function normally. Otherwise, as long as you feed 5V to the controller, the build is the same."
In terms of an enclosure, assuming you don't have access to a 3D printer, you can pick up a small project box from Amazon, something similar to this: amzn.to/3CXYnwo . They come in various sizes, so pick one you think will hold your controller and components. They are pretty easy to drill or cut opening into with something like a Dremel. I used these types of project boxes a lot before I got my 3D printer.
@@ResinChemTech many thanks very helpful and thank you for your time ,Paul.
Cannot thank you enough, sir! Great work and so detailed in your instructions. Incredibly helpful!
Wow... thanks! I'm glad you found it helpful. I'm never sure how much detail to include, but I always try to include chapter links so folks can skip around if I'm covering something they already know.
Thanks for watching... and I greatly appreciate the feedback. It's comments like this that keep me motivated to make more videos!
hi can you list the type of soldering iron that you use in this video
Amazon link would be nice
thanks in advance.
Here's an Amazon affiliate link, but note that they currently show it as unavailable: amzn.to/3DvsN7t - I've been very happy with it. Maybe you can find a similar item?
How do you do this with 12 or 24v leds?
You'd have to use a step-down buck converter (or similar DC-DC converter) to step down the 12/24V power supply for your LEDs to 5V for the controller. Alternatively, you could use a separate 5V power supply for the controller (if it is only powering the controller, it only needs to be an amp or so... like a phone charger), but if you use separate power supplies, you must be sure that the controller and LED strip share a common ground.. or weird things will happen!
Is there a way to connect a microphone with WLED so the light react to music?
Absolutely! You need the sound reactive version of WLED, as well as a mic hooked up. I cover that in a couple of my other videos, but I'd start with the sound reactive LED floor lamps (ruclips.net/video/_xEFJMp48z4/видео.html). You can jump straight to the chapter on the controller and software using the links in the video description (it's around the 12 minute mark I think) to see how to hook up the mic to the D1 Mini.
Hi, I have an esp32-wroom-32 could it be used used to control pixels LEDs, thanks
Yes it can. If you'd like to see the differences in performance between the ESP8266 and ESP32, take a look at this: ruclips.net/video/q1ghNUND6gk/видео.html
@@ResinChemTech thank you, as new to how to set up these boards, I tried to search your channel for a setup video for the esp32, Is there a video shows a full process on how to program, setup, and connect to Pixels for ESP32-WROOM-32, also can be powered with 12v power supply
The process is the same for both the ESP8266 and ESP32... the only difference is the data signal pin (the default for the ESP32 is GPIO16... but if using WLED, you can define the pin to use). However, you cannot run the ESP32 directly from your 12V power supply... you will need to use a buck or step-down converter to get the voltage down to 5V. If you feed anything over about 6V into the ESP32 board, you will likely damage or destroy it.
Otherwise, the process is the same:
Connect 5V and GND to the VIN and GND pins on the ESP32. Feed a data/signal line out from GPIO16 through the logic level shifter (recommended), and then out to your LED strip. Run your power in parallel to the LED strips and controller... but remember that if you are using 12V LEDs, you must step that power down to 5V before feeding to the controller. You might check out the official WLED site that also shows a diagram of hooking up a 12V power supply with an ESP controller: kno.wled.ge/basics/getting-started/
@@ResinChemTech By the way, these infos deserve a video from you lol, as not many youtubers explaining the the proper way, maybe Dr Zzs explains more then others, but for example most of the reviewers don't explain things the right way like little things example, I watched so many videos on how to use esphome flasher, and almost none of them says that, USB Date Cable should be used for this task, and lots of beginners they think their computer, or software not capable or other sort of things, at least if they are apparently saying, use USB cable to connect the board to the computer, they could include this word which's only four letter, Data, USB, better then make viewers collect all sorts of USB cable to try which one is going to work lol,
Thanks again
After watching just about every video you posted I decided to I build a 5v LED cloud design with some cotton and a metal frame for my daughters ceiling. My question is how long can the power cable be from the power source to the ESP 8266 before it becomes a problem? I want to try and hide the cable in the corner of the wall with a piece of trim. I am brand new to this DIY thing but im hooked immediately. Any thoughts or comments would be much appreciated.
The power supply can be quite a distance away from both the controller and the LED strips as long as you use appropriate gauge wire. The biggest distance limitation is the distance between the controller and the start of the LED strips for the data signal wire. But if you utilize a logic level shifter (or sacrificial pixel), even that can be quite a distance. I have one install where there is at least 15 feet between the power supply/controller and the start of the LED strip. Naturally I am using a logic level shifter... although many claim it isn't needed. You might have seen my video showing why I think the shifter is a good idea.
I would definitely recommend that you try a bench test first with the amount of wiring you think it is going to take before I started cutting trim! But I think that if you use an appropriate power supply, wire gauge and a logic level shifter, you won't have any issues... unless you are talking some sort of crazy distance.
Good luck with your project.... and welcome to the deep rabbit hole of DIY and LEDs! Don't hesitate to reach back out if I can help along the way.
@@ResinChemTech Thank you so much for the info! Im talking about 15 feet. I was just using an old 5w cell phone charger for the power supply and a flat micro usb cable to run to the esp 8266 and i noticed that it wasnt available when i used more than the 2 foot micro usb cable from the 5w power supply to the esp 8266. Like I said I am brand new to this so maybe my power supply being the old cellphone charger cube isnt enough.
Yeah... with the people that I've helped, the most common problem is generally related to the power supply... either not enough power or thinking that they can run the power through the ESP8266 to the LEDs... which quickly fries the ESP board. I think I've mentioned in multiple videos, but I use the max. 0.060A per pixel. So, for example, 100 pixels would need 6A (plus I allow about another 0.5A for the controller)... and I always round that up to something like 10A. Most phone charges/USB wall chargers, etc. aren't going to put out more than a couple of amps at best.
Also note that if you are using separate power supplies for the LEDs and the controller, you must have a common ground between the two. While it might initially light up, all kind of funky things will happen with effects unless you have a common ground. I generally recommend a single power supply of adequate size, but you run separate 5V leads from that to the LEDs and to the controller.
Can't you power the led strip separately and share grounds? Then you could use 12v led strips too.
Absolutely. In fact, running anything other than a few pixels requires that the power run directly to the LED strip and not through the controller. For the D1 Mini, it can only handle a maximum current output of around 500mv (about 8-10 pixels). I always run the power to the controller and independently to the LED strips... with the common ground you mentioned. I show this in the bench test in the video (23:17). Yes, you could also use 12V strips, but you'd have to have two separate power supplies (the max voltage input on the D1 Mini is only 6V) or use a step-down/buck converter to lower the input voltage to the controller to
@@ResinChemTech thank you. It seems a modified computer power supply (with a breakout board) might be perfect as it would supply a common ground, 12v and 5v outputs and plenty of amperage. Thanks again
Quick Question: I don't have a 3D printer. I'd like to purchase a case suitable to hold the LED Controller. I am new to electronics. Is there a web site/supplier you'd recommend to purchase a case to house the LED controller? What are the dimensions?
I know... I need to remember in my videos that not everyone has a 3D printer and to offer alternatives. You have a few options here. First, you can simply search Amazon for "electronics project box" and find something suitable (you may have to drill some holes for the incoming/outgoing wiring). The dimensions will be based on the ElectroCookie board your use (full or mini) and nothing will be a perfect fit. See my related blog article posted in the video description for links to the ElectroCookie boards.
If you want a custom 3D printed case, first check around and see if there is a college or university (or community maker space) in your area that might print your item for little-to-no cost. In lieu of that, there are a multitude of online services that will print your design. I haven't used any, so I can really make any recommendations. I've posted the design files for my versions (full and mini) on Thingiverse and you can find them here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4969733 You can download the .stl files and provide them to the printing service. These are pretty basic designs, but they work well for me.
Let me know if you have any follow-up questions! Good luck with your project.
Do you just sell these made already
Sorry, but I don't build them for sale. I just don't have the time and the goal of my channel is to teach others how to do it themselves. But if you are interested in a pre-built version, Quindor over at QuinLED sells pre-built WLED controllers: quinled.info/pre-assembled-quinled-dig-uno/
How would I make this work for 12v?
I'm assuming you mean with 12V LED strips? If so, then you'd take the 12V power supply and use a step-down buck converter to convert the voltage to 5V for the connection to the controller. You then run another set of leads from the 12V power supply directly to the LED strip.
The other alternative is to consider purchasing a pre-built board like the DigUno (quinled.info/pre-assembled-quinled-dig-uno/). This board can accept either 12V or 5V to power the controller and comes pre-installed with WLED.
Let me know if you were asking something different... or have any other questions.
@@ResinChemTech thanks for the answer! I'll have to look into it and see what I can do. I have so many random 12v power supplies hanging around. I'm building a dig uno, but everything is coming from AliExpress, I am building this in the meantime because I'm bored and want to keep learning.
Great video to do just that!
14:02 Превосходно. Спасибо, с меня подписка.
@10:05 what solder do you use?
It's 60/40 (Sn/Pb) 0.6mm rosin core (1.8% flux). Here's an Amazon affiliate link: amzn.to/3DOM6HO (the Wyctin brand you see in the video is currently unavailable, but it is exactly the same stuff).
@@ResinChemTech thank you
@@ResinChemTech and the flux stick?
Here you go... basic just no-clean flux: amzn.to/3F4SQmF
Would you be interested in selling some?
Honestly, between parts, labor and shipping... plus the time involved in managing all that, I don't think I could sell them at a price that would be attractive. However, if you are looking for a pre-built option with WLED already installed (and lots of other features), check out the DigBoards offered by Quindor: quinled.info/pre-assembled-quinled-dig-uno/
Your man cave looks like a gay bar
I love it.
Well.. I can't say that was necessarily the vibe I was going for! But after I did the first install on the pool table, things just kind of took off from there! Once you install your first set of DIY LEDs, it kind of becomes a bit addictive and you start looking for other places to install them. Before long, you end up with something that looks like my man cave. Although, most of the time the LEDs are lit up together in a "theme" of some sort (like blue and white for NFL Sundays)... and not just various random colors like I show here.
But thanks for watching, and taking time to post a comment.
I will never get why Americans skip the L in solder
Probably for the same reason we refuse to use the metric system, and pronounce it aLUMinum instead of aluMINium!
Great video! I recently built a few WLED controllers using logic level shifters. It was cool to see someone else's take on it as well. I also liked seeing the button integration, I haven't done that yet but plan to in the future. One more addition to your WLED board would be to add an inexpensive IR receiver, and use those cheap remotes in the beginning of your video to control them. I just added some to a couple of my boards so the kids have an easy way to control their LED's.
Great idea... I haven't tried that yet. I guess between Home Assistant, Google voice and the local button controls, I hadn't really considered a remote. But I'd like to try messing with an IR receiver... just to put it in my tool bag for potential other projects. Do you have a particular receiver you recommend that works well with the ESP8266?
Would love to learn how to integrate those cheap infrared controllers to control the WLED
Great video. Love to see more at this length and level of detail. I enjoy seeing different components and techniques used. For example, in the parking video, I liked seeing the matrix display used since I had never seen one before. How did you select that component over others like it? How did you implement it in the software? Maybe I'm not going to build a parking sensor but learning how to use distance sensors and matrix displays I might make something else entirely.
Good work, I look forward to seeing more?
Thanks! I always try to find a balance between how-to details and a general overview. Usually, I'll see something that someone else has done and maybe find a way to adapt it for my own use. That was the case with the matrix display. My original parking assistant was just going to be red/yellow/green stoplight style. But I saw this matrix and wanted to learn how it worked. I also wanted to learn a little more about Python, so that's the route I took. I hope maybe my videos might inspire you to come up with your own ideas as well. Thanks for watching!
Agreed
Agreed
If anything, IMHO, I'd rather you make videos LONGER and MORE detailed, but I don't relate to most people and I'm curious if your dashboard shows viewer attrition after 10 minutes, and thats why you ask, because that would be sad.
Thanks for the feedback... I do appreciate it. And you are completely correct. There is significant drop in % viewership after about 5-10 minutes. But in the time since I asked this question (again... a bit dated and old at this point), I received significant feedback that a large number of my subscribers do like the longer videos that contain explanations of the "why" along with the "what". So I've continued to make longer videos... despite the drop in % viewers. But I'm really doing this to try to help folks just starting out (much like I was when I made some of these earlier videos... and why I would sometimes show something like running power through the board that I would learn later wasn't the safest way to do it). I'd rather have a smaller number of regular viewers/subscribers that I can engage with, as opposed to just pandering to the numbers to try to maximize subscribers or revenue.
But that's just me! Thanks again for the feedback. While I continue to make longer videos, I do try to always include the chapter links so folks can skip over parts in which they aren't interested (again... another no-no if you are just trying to maximize view hours).
There is something so satisfying and calming watching you build that. KEEP the longer 30 min videos with chapter breaks.
Thanks! I don't know how "calming" it was filming it, but I'm glad you enjoyed it. It does seem like the majority of the feedback I've received are those that favor the longer "how-to" videos. Or maybe it is just the people that like short videos don't hang around long enough to hear me ask the question! Thanks for watching!
This video was exceptionally thought out and effectively presented.
I would really like to see this same video duplicated for the ESP32 which has more power and capacity, according to air cookie, to handle new and future features.
Thanks! I have used the ESP32 with WLED on a couple of occasions... primarily with the sound reactive version of WLED. In hindsight, I wish I would have covered the ESP32 as part of my sound reactive floor lamps. I also use an ESP32 in my mailbox notification video due to its deep sleep abilities. I've basically stuck with the D1 mini for most of my use cases both due to its low cost and the ability to fit it onto the smaller version of the prototype board. But I'd be happy to add using an ESP32 to the list of my upcoming videos. Thanks for watching!
@@ResinChemTech I would love to see that with esp32 because nobody has a video like your's, greetings from Mexico!
Excellent, up to date video with clear details covered.
I would like to use an APA 102 strip, with out the push button, connected to the D1 Mini. What D1 Mine pins are used for Data and Clock signals?
Do you need to up the Clock signal voltage to 5V?
I haven't used APA102 strips before, but beginning with the current latest release of WLED (0.12.0), you can define whatever pins you want to use. When selecting APA102 as your LED type, it will display fields to define the pins you are using for CLK and DATA. But I *think* that the original defaults were GPIO0 (D3) and GPIO2 (D4). I would definitely test on a breadboard before making any final soldered connections. I'd check the data sheet for APA102, but I believe you can pass 5V signals on both the clock and data lines, so I'd probably shift both... but again, a breadboard test is recommended because I have not personally tried these strips so I'm unsure.
I mainly use APA102 with the D1 mini and the ESP32 mini, and they work great with one major gotcha: On the D1 mini, I use D3 and D4 for clock/data (doesn’t matter which is which), but in WLED they are numbered differently: D3=0 and D4=2
Also, I don’t usually up the logic to 5v, but I rarely go over 144LEDs (and sometimes even power up to a dozen APA 102s from the 5v pin shhhh)
I appreciate the full step by step video, no matter how long it is.