Derby? Oxford? Balmoral? How to name your shoes
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- Опубликовано: 6 дек 2023
- Do you know the difference between a Balmoral Oxford and a wingtip Oxford? Between a Derby and a blucher? Is a whole cut an Oxford? Can a Derby be formal?
In this first episode of a series of 5 called "Do you speak Sartorial?", Hugo answers all these questions and teaches you how to name your shoes.
"To name things badly is to add to the misfortune of the world" (Albert Camus, Nobel Prize of Literature 1957)
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Hugo / parisian_gentleman
Sonya / sonyaglyn
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Хобби
There is something about how you speak Mr. Jacomet that draws me in and keeps me engaged in your content! And what an in-depth dive into shoes
Maybe it's my strong French accent and my grammar mistakes🤣? Thank you my friend! Cheers, Hugo
it's PASSION!
For me, these are some key traits that draws me to Mr. Jacomet’s content over other menswear channels.
1) Ability to relay information in a clear and concise manner without being pretentious and having a sense of humor.
2) He has a way of teaching fundamentals in a way where he adds a little bit of unique twist/detail to the information that makes a big difference in the value of the content. After all the finer details are makes a big difference!
3) He has real industry knowledge and expertise so I trust more of what is being taught.
4) Mr. Jacoment’s content is real menswear. Other channels are either chasing trends, makes you look old, or only able to start you off with the bare basics.
Bravo! When I describe my Austerity Brogues - Wingtip barmoral 3 eyelet derbys to my family at holidays. They look at me like I invented a new language!
Even though I knew all these, I still watched the video as I loved listening to this guy.
That's very kind of you my friend! Hugo
Great video, Hugo. While the vast majority of my lace-up shoes are Oxfords, I do have a collection of Derby lace-ups - all Suede and what one would label “Desert” shoes - I primarily wear when traveling and waking through mountains, forests, and other rugged terrain. My non-lace-up derbies are, you guessed it, single and double monkstraps I primarily wear with my jeans but also occasionally pair with my tailored clothing.
I can see you have a nice shoe collection my friend! All my best, Hugo
Thank you Monsieur Jacomet, I just learned many things in this episode and will make sure to use the right vocabulary going forward. Best regards
Many thanks Luc! Hugo
Hugo!!! Nice to see you back... always a pleasure
Thank you very much! Hugo
A fantastic video and learned so much. Your passion is incredible.
Very kind of you. Thank you Sandy! Hugo
I knew most of these shoe terms before, but I learned some new things and this is the best video on shoe terminology I've ever come across! Well done and beautifully explained.
Finally a new video! Always a pleasure to learn from you Hugo!
The pleasure is mine my friend! Hugo
Thanks for explaining. Nobody ever explains such terms.
You are very welcome Christopher! Best, Hugo
Great video as always, and thanks!
Your passion and enthusiasm are infectious! In this busy and hectic time of year this video inspired me to take the time to pull out the shoe collection and do some minor routine care maintenance. The shoes may or might not have needed the maintenance, but I certainly needed tge pause.
It would be interesting to see a pt. 2 covering things line Adelaides or medallion wholecuts or Norwegian welts etc.
Very useful video. Some of the points I knew, others were new to me. Thank you.
I'm a senior architect at my firm. I'm always stressing to pur young architects the importance of using the correct words for the architecture at hand. I may show your video to show them that it matters across many fields...that is if you want to be taken seriously!
Words mean things. Excellent points in one wonderful video.
Thank-you
Greetings, Hugo! I just received a beautiful pair of loafers that I purchased from Caulaincourt! Thank you for the video that you did with Alexis!
You're a lucky man Mike! All my best, Hugo
Always enjoy your videos thank you
You're very welcome Michael! Cheers, Hugo
I loved the quiz at the end! Thank you for this video ❤️🔥🔥🔥
Great video! I appreciate the education.
Where have you been! I’ve missed you! Your videos are the best
We've been quite busy in the USA. But we are back with a bunch of episodes already "in the box". best, Hugo
Incomparable teaching! This was wonderful.
Thank you Monsieur Jacomet, I learned so much! thank you for educating me.
I came across this video by accident. And I must say "I fell in love with your content and its delivery". That is why for the first time in my life I have subscribed to a channel on the very first video.
"Merci" (that is what Google translated the word "thank you" in French) is what I would like to say for creating this video. Yeah! I feel and know what "whole cut", "Balmoral", "cap-toe", "wingtip" and "two (or five) eyelet Derby" means.
Once again Merci.
Brilliant Mr. Jacomet, thank you! And thank you for introducing beauty into the world! Regards.
Thank you for this, Hugo! It's a really helpful video and I learned some of the finer points that I hadn't figured out before. I'm still a bit unsure on the specific definition of a blucher, but that gives me something to go and research :)
Thank you Jacomet for your very informative video.
I'm a suits with chukka boots guy but I'll watch this just because. Been waiting for a video from Sartorial Talks for a looong time. Haha.
Many thanks my friend. We've been very busy these last weeks, but we are back full strength with a lot of episodes already shot. All my best, Hugo
I very much appreciate this particular video. I was asking the exact questions you have answered. Very educational and done in style, of course. Thank you. @@SARTORIALTALKS
thank you for this
Thank you, sir.
You are more than welcome! All my best, Hugo
This was a very helpful & clarifying talk.
I also learned there might be a love of clarity at the core of these Jacomet videos. (If so, that might explain much about these videos-their ease & natural wit, for example-& why they always seem to go deeper than the visual side of things.)
At the 9-10 mark, M. Jacomet says:
“If you don’t have the right vocabulary to exchange ideas with people, you are going to see little by little you are going to lose the meaning of words. And when you lose the meaning of words, you lose the meaning of things and maybe, ultimately, the meaning of life…. Saying the right words for the right idea is fundamental.”
I’ve transcribed that insight (as you can see) & added it to my collection of worthy quotes.
I've also added the Camus quote that can be found in the description: “To name things badly is to add to the misfortune of the world.”
A double-whammy.
Thanks!
Awesome video
After watching Sir describe an important and fashionable item in simple elements; I am persuaded to subscribe to or purchase more of his wisdom.
Thanks 👍🏼
...and for those of us with neanderthal wide feet, we call most shoes "too narrow". Always my thanks for you're wonderful videos
If I'm not mistaken, the balmoral name (and cut) comes from the balmoral boot and eventually made its way into shoes. Great content and great information, as always, Hugo!
You're absolutely right Chris! Cheers, Hugo
Encantador video sr. Jacomet, yo siempre pensé que Blucher y Derby eran exactamente lo mismo, hasta hoy supe la diferencia.
Yo soy fan de los Monkstraps, los tengo en single y en double monkstrap, y también los hay con y sin brogue, así como con y sin captoe, clasificación muy similar a la de los zapatos Oxford.
Muchas gracias por compartirnos este espacio. Saludos.
Hugo it is always a pleasure to follow your Discussion on the Satorial world and what are your thoughts on Dirby loafers and others that have cemented construction in regards to the soles vs Goodyear welding as example
Great video Hugo, thank you for that! By the way, I see lots and lots of content on the French channel and I must admit I feel very remorseful for not paying better attention during my French classes in school....
Thank you for your beautiful video! I would kindly ask you to make an extensive video specifically for monks traps. They are so en vogue these days so that they deserve a special edition just for them. Merci beaucoup!
I dont't know why, but I just could not coax myself to get a cap toe oxford. I am fine with wing tip and wholecuts. In fact I have wintips and wholecuts and I do find my wholecuts really formal/elegant, more than anything else I have.And YES vocabulary/semantics is everything.
Merci Monsieur Jacomet! I always wanted to know the different names and you delivered👏 It would be good to know the names in French so I can politely ask the shoemakers or sales associates in Paris. The history of how these shoes acquired their name would be a fantastic video too.
P.S. To all shoe lovers out there, I always remember wingtips because the broguing makes a W shape which obviously is the first letter in wingtip. The way I remember Balmorals is I picture a prince or king wearing those shoes at Balmoral castle.
Love to see Corthays in the wild! Hugo, are your Corthay pairs on the Pullman or the Sevres last?
Sèvres my friend! And this pair is from 2008. Cheers, Hugo
So helpful, thank you! Please instruct us about use of the "tractor tyre" sole. Casual, but when to wear?
You mean the command sole? It's normally casual indeed (works very well with jeans for example). But it can also work with a combo sport jacket and chinos. Best, Hugo
Huh! Never knew the term for that type of sole. thanks, Hugo! Hi to Sonya too.
Thanks for the video.
I miss an explanation about Derby Budapesters which I find absolutety sportish.
Regards from BCN,
Great, great video Mr.Jacomet! In many places, Bluchers are listed as an independent open-laced shoes category alongside Derby, on the same category level. What do you think about this?
Love from Malaysia, Jacomet 🇲🇾
Merci beaucoup, de la part de Manchester, Angleterre
Hello Monsieur Jacomet. Fantastic video as always. May I know what brand/designer the burgundy cap-toe oxfords are? They look so beautiful!
They should be a Mario Bemer bespoke pair!😉
Good shoes takes you to good places 😊
Hugo, your thoughts on Meermin shoes!
Bonjour Monsieur,
Really appreciate the sartorial knowledge that you provide in your videos. However it would've been a bit better if you had provided close ups of the shoes to distinguish between the subtleties of the different designs. It's a bit difficult to make out all the details from this far off.
Thank you and regards,
Your friend and admirer.
Edit :- Also, can you do a video about pairing different colour suits with different colored shoes. The dos and don'ts. Would be really appreciated. Thanks and cheers !
I've always loved your theme music. I am a female but I would love to wear classic men's shoes. However, I have terrible hammer toes.
Chibaba ichi Zimbabwean language meaning to say you're the god father when it comes to sartorial talks 👄
😊
Vocabulary is king- BROVO HUGO🙏
Which shoe is the most formal? Wholecut or cap toe oxford?
I would say whole cut, even if a black cap toe Oxford can be also very formal (especially when mirror glossed). Best, Hugo
Do you think that this interest in sartorial is reflecting in their dress ?
I’ll be honest, between this page Kirby Allison and AskOkey you’ll get a full scholarship in being sartorially astute.
Oxford austerity brogue, just to confuse you when you thought you got the hang of it...
🤣you're right! Well, it was a little bit early to speak about this "semantic curiosity". But I will sooner than later. Cheers, Hugo
Hello sir, a fine day for your mind.
May I ask if you have read Alan Flusser? Do you like his work? Would you discuss certain bespoke elements of style and philosophies that are similar or different between you two eminent men?
Thank you to you every day and for all your masterful uploads.
Yours sincerely
saveself99.
PS. I wrote this before I watched your video,film.
I like boots
So if a balmoral has the wave tip, is it a wingtip balmoral? I still wear my grandfather’s shoes which I think would be a balmoral wingtip brogue blucher.
You probably have a long wing brogued blucher
Excellent question. Actually Balmoral are originally Oxford boots. Thus, if we strictly follow the origin of the appellation "Balmoral", there should not be any Balmoral Derby. However, many shoe makers do offer this nowadays, like, for example, Norma Vilalta in Barcelona. He describes his "Coltrane" model as a wingtip balmoral derby. As it has perforations, it could also be called a wingtip balmoral brogue derby (or blucher). Cheers, Hugo
@@CONVAIR_106 thank you; that is probably the right designation.
@@SARTORIALTALKS thank you; very interesting.
09:10
Is The blue derby also a moc toe?
You're right even if this appellation is actually rarely used. Cheers, Hugo
Thanks Hugo for taking the time to respond. Also I m new to the sartorial world. I am a Carpenter by trade. So I appreciate your channel. It is the only place I go for advice when I need to buy something to wear.
Single monkstrap derby😊
That suede derby is so sexy
By Septième Largeur in Paris. Best, Hugo
❤️✅😎👊🏻🫵🏻
🙂
Dude, watch the tie
First!
Dam you!
Yes Michael!
Ugh
All balmorals are oxfords, but not all oxfords are balmorals 😊.
Man, prison has taken its toll on Julian Assange.