Sorry for having to break this video into 2 parts. It was just so long. We’ll post the second half within the next few days. There are a lot of great brands out there, but these are just some of our favorites. We hope this video series helps. Thanks for watching!
Such a tease! Besides Allen Edmonds, y’all mentioned just one other brand. I definitely agree this video could have been way longer and still kept my attention.
I have to say that this is one of my favorite collaborations you guys have made to date. I love both content creators and enjoyed the in-depth conversations a great deal!
Your past videos explaining and showing what sets good shoes apart from throw away shoes is helping to make so many of us informed consumers. For 40+ years I basically thought of more expensive shoes as vanity accessories and a waste of money for the average person. Thanks to you and other cobblers I look at shoes with a whole new perspective. The saying goes "knowledge is power " and your willingness to share your knowledge is helping consumers take back the power because we are not dependent on shoe salesmen to tell us what is best. I love the thought of owning shoes that are worth passing along to someone instead of tossing them into the trash.
I was one of those salesman throughout the 90s and early 00s, and can say from experience in the field that not all salesman went about it the same way. Some were driven by commission, sure. I was driven by education. Knowledge is indeed power. It also led to a lot of repeat customers for myself as people wanted to show appreciation for treating them like people capable of making their own informed decisions instead of salivating over a potential close. I really appreciate the guys at Potter and Sons because they have a similar approach. Rather than looking down upon those who may be have made a less repairable choice, or a quicker wearing shoe, or whatever, they care about the person enough to take the time to explain the why. That matters to guys like me. So thank you guys. Keep it up.
100% correct about the education we are receiving from your types of channels and what it does to us as consumers. And Hugo is right about his point in seeing this movement in the tie world just as the shoe world. It’s happening across the board with multiple products and categories of products. I for one just love it. I love the learning process and education and understand stuff such as this. I’m rambling. But thank you for what you guys all do. Haha
You should make a designer series where you cut open high end designer boots/shoes. More Saint Laurent, Gucci, balenciaga, Prada, Rick owens. I think you’ll gain a lot of audience by opening up expensive designer shoes and seeing if they’re worth the big price tags.
They have done a few Gucci and Prada and SLP on the show before. I think the SLP were underwelming but by definition thise brands are overpriced as luxury.
@@bucknut2000 yeah I’ve seen some of them. I loved the slp one and it’s like their 6th most viewed video ever and it’s only been up for a few months so there’s obviously a market for that type of video. They’re obviously over priced but it would be interesting to a lot people to have a look inside and see what materials these high end brands are using and to get a cobblers perspective on the construction.
I just bought a pair of monkstraps from Thomas Bird London and was very impressed with them. They came in at just under $300. I wonder if you had any experience with their shoes and what you thought of the quality.
You know I’m a fan on Allen Edmonds. I never buy them on full price I wait for there sales which they have very often. I just bought a pair of $300 sneakers for $100.
100% agree on the Allen Edmonds dress shoe lasts. There is no shape, sleekness or style. Very traditional. I've always wanted to buy a pair, but everytime I try them on, I don't like them. There is much nicer stuff coming out of Europe.
So I’m 22 minutes into this video and one brand has been mentioned. When do you stop talking about yourselves and start covering shoe brands which is what I’m here for?
Hugo Jacomet is such an amazing guest. The amount of knowledge that he carries is phenomenal. The fact that he's visited so many different brands from dress shoes to suits and socks and shirts. He's simply amazing and I really enjoyed this video. Can't wait for part 2!!! Thank you for this video!
I went to 9 stores today, looking for a pair of brown loafers and something didn't feel right, so everytime I left without buying anything and feeling dissatisfied. Then I went looking for an informed opinion on RUclips and I found your channel. I'm glad I did.
I've seen Hugo Jakomet's channel before a few times and found him to be interesting. I am very pleased to see him on your channel and appreciate you guys allowing him to really articulate his point and opinions, obviously why you invited him on the show. With that said it is a extremely interesting and entertaining episode and I'm really looking forward to part two! I feel this episode was done very well and once again thoroughly enjoyed.....
The sad part is how so many men go for the cheapest shoe option, and don't invest in dress shoes as the foundational pieces they are. You can get away with a cheap suit, but EVERYONE looks at your feet: shoes that are glued vs. stitched make the biggest difference. If you invest in $150-$300 shoes just once, they will live beyond you with regular maintenance and resoles. But a cheap suit/slacks + cheap dress shoes mentality = I really don't care about how I look.
I was working for the discount version of one of the high end department stores in late 89 to early 90. One of my coworkers in the men's department kept promoting Allen Edmonds and another American brand name as to what to buy for dress shoes. Working in the shoe department myself, I would see the shoes as they came in, and always looked for my size. At the time, Allen's would run $300-400 from this department store, and returns and end of stock runs would get sent to the store I worked at, and discounted by 25-40% off retail. A pair came in, simple design, what appeared to be one of the high end Oxfords. My coworker was pushing me to buy them, something didn't look right about them. Looking closer at the heel block, a corner was starting to lift, and what I noticed was the leather was a veneer. Finally pointed it out to my coworker, and he was shocked. So as early at 1989/1990. Allen Edmonds were playing around with this design on some of their lower priced shoes. This may have been a test series, I am unsure, I started noticing details of dress shoes more carefully after.
There were a lot of comments about how a "dress" shoe brings more confidence to the wearer. The same thing happens with "work" shoes/boots. The Thorogood boots you repair for Abom79 come to mind. You are speaking specifically about dress shoes in this video but, quality bringing confidence to the wearer happens universally. Thus... the value of quality. 😉
"But the thing was that good boots lasted for years and years. A man who could afford fifty dollars had a pair of boots that'd still be keeping his feet dry in ten years' time, while the poor man who could only afford cheap boots would have spent a hundred dollars on boots in the same time and would still have wet feet."
Hopefully Rancourt makes the cut. It's hard to search for shoes with so many foot geometry concerns. I'm of a wide toe narrow heel variety, used to get my feet cast for corrective plates as a kid, heavily considering bespoke shoes for the superior fit.
When I started in the mens clothing industry, I worked for a magnificent men's clothing store in New Jersey. The dress shoe line we carried was Alden from Massachusetts. I am still wearing a few pairs from 1987 and the 90s . I can't express what a great product and company Alden was. Except for their boots, I don't see much advertising for them anymore. I really hope the company is doing well.
Hugo appearing with Trenton and Heath!? This is going to be a super informative video! Just started watching 6 minutes into this episode and had to comment!
If only more people became aware of quality vs mass production and opted for long lasting products. The movement is relatively small compared to the population of consumers. Big brands would be forced to create higher quality products if their margins actually took a large enough hit. As it stands the market will always be flooded with cheap throw away merchandise and plenty of customers eagerly buying them. 🧐
I own almost 100 pairs of AE from many years. I, as a young man, pinched pennies to buy a Florsheim. Now, AE is the only American brand that I can buy with my size. If I want an Alden, I have to invest more than a year to get one.
For decades, I didn't know much about the technical side of shoes. Just the name of brands. It was only since 2019, and thanks to channels like this on RUclips, that I started to learn. Through chance, and listening to my wife's opinion about "how they look" when buying, I did get a couple of pairs of fairly decent ones. Plus grudgingly forking out more than my previous buys (those didn't last, not surprisingly). Armed with new knowledge from channels like this, first and foremost, I now insist the shoes I buy MUST be stitched. If not Goodyear-welt, than Blake stitch. Doesn't matter if the salesman/girl insist "how good and guaranteed" the soles had been cemented. NO! Then the uppers - definitely no more "artificial", "patent" leather. Quality shoes certainly aren't cheap. But if one is patient as in "Good things come to those who wait", and not immediately buy something, he will find pairs at reasonable prices. Sooner or later, some brand or store will put things on sale to clear old stock. And that's the time to buy. -- Petaling Jaya, Malaysia
This was a great conversation. I got my first quality pair of shoes at 40. I don’t wear dress shoes for work and just didn’t know anything about them. Thanks T&H for your willingness to help me.
Excellent video. Really enjoyed listening to you guys talk about shoes. I have always been the type of guy to buy expensive work boots, since I am in them all day earning a paycheck, but go cheap on dress shoes. I'm changing my mindset. I'm going to get a nice pair of dress shoes that look and feel good.
I'm one of those guys who speaks up strongly for Allen Edmonds' brand, simply because I wear a 15D, and I can find VARIETY in my size with them... in more than ONE last style. I see the QC isn't where it needs to be at, but I take advantages of the sales too. So, many of the "concerns" can be corrected when they go to the cobbler for a new sole. If AE is smart, the corners cut are only done in places which can be EASILY fixed: Sole leather; edge sanding, compressed leather fiber heal blocks are examples (but I don't want to see any of those cut, as a consumer). Keep the stitch count (welt to sole) good, keep the leather for the uppers good, take that extra step to ensure the gemming doesn't separate from the footbed, well centered and aligned upper leathers/designs... don't cut those corners (not saying I've seen corners cut in these areas, just clarifying things which are more important to KEEP well done). AE has more than one line of construction, their "bench welted" being their top tier. Keep the quality uncompromised here. Let the folks who aren't "in the know" settle for the lower tier construction, and they'll smarten up as they get older. This whole "sneaker thing" they're offering now? No thanks. It's about the same as not knowing which bathroom to use. And (Trenton and Heath), some of us are NOT the young bucks you mention. Some of us are the bald, gray bearded guys who want to keep up on knowing who's still doing the game correctly before we spend our money.
Agree completely with you. I’m a size 15 also, and am thrilled that Allen Edmonds makes shoes that big. I’ve bought 3 pair in the last couple of months due to the education from this channel. The quality may not be what it once was, but still much an upgrade from where I’ve been.
From Singapore! Just bought my first pair of black goodyear-welted oxfords from CNES cuz I’m starting work in a few weeks. I can attest and say that they are absolutely beautiful and I definitely feel more confident wearing them. The best part, it was on sale and only cost $195 SGD (approx $140 USD), which is absolutely nuts.
Sonya and Hugo...i followed every speech because you are just the best..!!!!!!!!!!!!! Cheers from sunny Greece !!!!!!!!!!!! Scarosso and TLB Mallorca are the my choice
I love this collab so much. First the difference in accents, then the different knowledge that covers the spectrum and a bonus when Hugo fires at Ralph Lauren and Hugo Boss for being pay for brand and not quality and the Potters both wearing RL :)
I like how you mentioned that Allen Edmonds does a good job on wider shoes. I wear a EEE. Are any of the brands that will be mentioned in part 2 also good brands for wide feet?
Could not agree more with them about Allen Edmonds. I have pairs from the early 2000s up until now that even I can tell a few shortcuts. Still not a bad brand for the price point, still a huge fan of them, will continue to buy them but don't really put them in the same category as others. Definitely better than some J and M's I have seen lately for sure. Also, great to see Hugo on the channel! He's one of my favorites!
Now that's a crossover i never knew i need! Honestly this doesn't feel like a 26 mins video, thoroughly enjoyable.. Will the 2nd part be posted here as well or in the Sartorial Talk's channel?
It's better to spend a lot more as long as the product is actually better. I miss the days when a certain shoe maker in Nashville made quality shoes made of good, sometimes German, leather that could be resoled. Thirty years ago, my favorite of theirs was $385, I think. Or maybe $285. Of the three pairs I once owned, two lasted more than twenty years. It's getting to the point where you can't get that level of shoe without going semi custom and spending $1000 a pair. But then, what is the dollar worth in 2024 compared to 1993?
Great show guys I love Hugo have been watching him since I retired from the USAF after twenty years and had to learn how to dress. Yes dress and with quality stuff.
Shoe topic between you guys and Hugo, I'm already sold. How society is switching, really got to me, made my heart rate spike, I want to keep my items, I want high quality. I want a history with an item and I want to support a trend towards that goal. Thank you guys for the effort and this video!
Indeed! I am a woman but my most complimented pieces in my wardrobe are staple pieces I’ve had for many years and soon, a decade. I hope this trend continues. I have large feet for a woman and oddly enough, mens shoes fit better and are more supportive after wearing Army boots for almost twenty years. I have found I can wear feminine clothing with a wingtip that is comfortable
Hi hugo just starting to watch your videos unbelievable great information i want to start a shoe collection i am in man in my early 50s what brand of shoes is the best bank for your money and very good quality shoes thanks for your help
I wish there was more American made clothes and shoes because of fit. European and especially Asian made clothing and shoes are not sized with Americans in mind. I don’t just mean overweight people but just taller and proportionally. Look at these three in this video. The French guy is just smaller.
Allen Edmonds makes a nice $250-300 shoe. I have a pair of Alden oxfords (thanks to eBay used) and Alden is on another level. The stitching, the attention to detail, and overall asthetics really make it feel like a premium product. You do pay a premium price too.
I have AE Oxfords and they're nice. However the leather on my Bruno Magli's (insert eye roll here) is on another level altogether. Like a Porsche interior...
My mom took us all to shoe stores and insisted on leather soles and heels when we were children. She said it was better for the growth of your feet. I think she was right. I grew up in good bass loafers and oxford’s as a school girl and then good white nursing shoes. My feet have never suffered. Buy well made shoes for your babies, children and even teens. Buy the best you can afford and avoid plastics.
I love finding old pairs of Allen Edmonds with the uppers in good shape and then restoring and recrafting them. I've gotten several pairs used for around 50 bucks or even less, and after some work they are better than new and an awesome value. I've developed a good relationship with a great cobbler in my area, and I've been learning and accumulating the tools to be able to do more of the work myself.
Thank you for this knowledge. As a woman, my most complimented pieces in my wardrobe are staple pieces I’ve had for many years and soon, a decade. I hope this trend continues. I have large feet for a woman and oddly enough, mens shoes fit better and are more supportive after wearing Army boots for almost twenty years. I have found I can wear feminine clothing with a wingtip that is comfortable.
I had the exact same orgasmic reaction when I recently bought the magnanni Ondara. Im 27 and never spent that much on footwear before 2 years ago but since I discovered magnanni I feel like I've found a missing part of my style
I’m impressed by Hugo’s communication skill. verbal and body language reading is superb. he knows how to engage the guys and read their body language and engage them as needed.
Back in the day, Nettleton shoes, manufactured in Syracuse, New York, were THE premium brand. High quality, especially their shell cordovan wing tips. They were much better in construction and materials than Florsheim. Sadly, Nettleton quality began to slip during the late 1970s and eventually went out of business.
Hey, just because dress shoes may not be your thing doesn’t mean others in the world don’t want to hear about them. A big part of one of our businesses is repairing very high end dress shoes from folks around the world.
Glad to see you all got together on a video- your two channels have really upped by shoe game over tha last few years! I bought a pair of CNES loafers a year ago after watching Hugo's video, and I still get compliments when I wear it. I still can't believe how little how I paid for them. Quality definitely not as good as some other pairs I own, but it's not bad, and for that price, so hard to beat.
I can attest to the growth that comes from learning the quality of products that are out there. I had no idea there was so much involved. My wife is not as happy with you as a result! LOL
I laughed when Hugo mentions wide, “puffy” Allen Edmonds. I wear a 10.5 B, which is nearly impossible to find in a shoe. Not so difficult to see that shoes from big brands typically make my feet look very wide and out of ratio with my tall/lean frame. (6’2”, 160lbs).
Allen Edmonds is just like every corporation in America, make stuff just good enough to get by, and maximize the profit for the shareholders and the bonuses for the CEO and all the other pencil pushing executives.
Having worn both fake and real leather shoes time to time, there is a huge difference in simply real leather upper only, leather upper/lining/midsole and all leather shoes. Real leather shoes are more durable, breathable, slowly conform to your feet. After breakin, leather stretches to fit your feet. But the fake pu leather doesnt breath. Your feet get hot and puffy.
I bought an Allen Edmonds and a Justin Fitzpatrick at the same time. It was my intention for the Allen Edmonds to be my everyday shoe and the Justin Fitzpatrick for everything but work. When they came I was beyond disappointed in the Allen Edmonds. Maybe my disappointment was exaggerated because of the beauty and fine craftsmanship of the Justin Fitzpatrick. Allen Edmonds were just shabby and beyond unrefined. The Justin Fitzpatrick was beautiful and just perfectly made. Everything about it was refined. However, I’ve been looking at the Fitzpatrick I bought and I see the same thing at meermin, cobbler union and septieme largeur. But I’m sure I’ll stick to Fitzpatrick because it fits my narrow feet beautifully. I’m sure all these brands will be featured here. Justin’s shoes are beautiful. Try them please
Question: With the degrading of shoe production over the years, if a company was to turn the clock back and produce real quality shoes what would a realistic price be for them vs. shoes that are custom made to order?
Using Tricker's (a UK brand which has been making shoes the same way since 1829) as an example, their standard shoes/boots range from £485 to £565. Their bespoke shoes/boots start at £3,000 for the first pair, £2,500 for subsequent pairs. If your feet fit their lasts, their standard range are some of the best quality available. If you have problematic feet, bespoke is the way to go. Either way, their shoes/boots are of a quality that British Royalty choose to wear them. The US equivalent would probably be Alden, who produce shoes/boots in a massive array of last widths & shapes. If you can get your feet measured in one of their boutiques, they will recommend a size and last to best suit your feet, avoiding the need for bespoke fittings. Prices range from roughly $600 to $1,000, depending on style & leather. As a final thought, if you are after a pair of boots, the Spokane, WA makers (Nicks, JK, Whites) are astonishingly well made, using high quality materials & traditional methods, and a vast range of lasts. If necessary, they will modify an existing last to fit your feet - to get sized, you either visit in person, or send tracings and measurements of your feet. Reasonably sensible money ($500 to $750ish). Not the most elegant, but for their intended market, hard to beat. Hope that helps.
I have two pairs of TLB Mallora that i love. Some black wholecut oxfords and burgundy chelsea boots. Curious to see if it makes the list. I will def check out CNES, never heard of them before.
Not sure what to think about guys selling sensibility and taste while drinking from Styrofoam cups. They even sell coffee cup merch and are not drinking from them to give them a little visibility. Just seems odd. Don't you think?
You shouldn't have to pay customs in the US on a single pair from Singapore. The US as a courtesy does not tax private imports under $800 as a courtesy to its citizens on the grounds that it is de minimis.
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Sorry for having to break this video into 2 parts. It was just so long. We’ll post the second half within the next few days. There are a lot of great brands out there, but these are just some of our favorites. We hope this video series helps. Thanks for watching!
I would say the videos are just not long enough!
Such a tease! Besides Allen Edmonds, y’all mentioned just one other brand. I definitely agree this video could have been way longer and still kept my attention.
Can’t wait. Terrifically informative video and a genuinely engaging conversation.
I have to say that this is one of my favorite collaborations you guys have made to date. I love both content creators and enjoyed the in-depth conversations a great deal!
Length of video does not matter if the content is interesting.
There was no need to break the video.
Your past videos explaining and showing what sets good shoes apart from throw away shoes is helping to make so many of us informed consumers. For 40+ years I basically thought of more expensive shoes as vanity accessories and a waste of money for the average person. Thanks to you and other cobblers I look at shoes with a whole new perspective. The saying goes "knowledge is power " and your willingness to share your knowledge is helping consumers take back the power because we are not dependent on shoe salesmen to tell us what is best. I love the thought of owning shoes that are worth passing along to someone instead of tossing them into the trash.
Thank you! We’re so glad to hear that.
Amen.
I was one of those salesman throughout the 90s and early 00s, and can say from experience in the field that not all salesman went about it the same way.
Some were driven by commission, sure. I was driven by education.
Knowledge is indeed power.
It also led to a lot of repeat customers for myself as people wanted to show appreciation for treating them like people capable of making their own informed decisions instead of salivating over a potential close.
I really appreciate the guys at Potter and Sons because they have a similar approach. Rather than looking down upon those who may be have made a less repairable choice, or a quicker wearing shoe, or whatever, they care about the person enough to take the time to explain the why. That matters to guys like me.
So thank you guys. Keep it up.
100% correct about the education we are receiving from your types of channels and what it does to us as consumers. And Hugo is right about his point in seeing this movement in the tie world just as the shoe world. It’s happening across the board with multiple products and categories of products. I for one just love it. I love the learning process and education and understand stuff such as this. I’m rambling. But thank you for what you guys all do. Haha
Thank you!
23.5 minutes into a 26 minute video before the first brand on the list is mentioned...
Absolutely ridiculous…ain’t nobody got time for that.
Pinch me! So great to see my two favorite youtube shoe channels collaborating with each other. Love to see this....thanks!!!
👍
You should make a designer series where you cut open high end designer boots/shoes. More Saint Laurent, Gucci, balenciaga, Prada, Rick owens. I think you’ll gain a lot of audience by opening up expensive designer shoes and seeing if they’re worth the big price tags.
👍 Great idea! Whew…hopefully we can find some on the cheap. That’s a lot of money. 😉
They have done a few Gucci and Prada and SLP on the show before. I think the SLP were underwelming but by definition thise brands are overpriced as luxury.
@@bucknut2000 yeah I’ve seen some of them. I loved the slp one and it’s like their 6th most viewed video ever and it’s only been up for a few months so there’s obviously a market for that type of video. They’re obviously over priced but it would be interesting to a lot people to have a look inside and see what materials these high end brands are using and to get a cobblers perspective on the construction.
I bought my first pair of Alden's off Ebay. I would not have known what to look for without channels like this one.
Wow. What a great video. This gentleman is full of great knowledge. Thank you for making this video. Have a great weekend everyone. 👍
Thank you, you too!
Wow didn't expect to see mr Hugo on this channel! What a nice surprise!
Greetings! Nice to see our friend Hugo featured on your channel. Well done. D&R
I just bought a pair of monkstraps from Thomas Bird London and was very impressed with them. They came in at just under $300. I wonder if you had any experience with their shoes and what you thought of the quality.
You know I’m a fan on Allen Edmonds. I never buy them on full price I wait for there sales which they have very often. I just bought a pair of $300 sneakers for $100.
Very good. Looking forward to part 2
100% agree on the Allen Edmonds dress shoe lasts. There is no shape, sleekness or style. Very traditional. I've always wanted to buy a pair, but everytime I try them on, I don't like them. There is much nicer stuff coming out of Europe.
When will part 2 be shown?
That's a handsomely-sized watch, Trenton. What is it?
Thank you! It’s an ESQ that I’ve had for years.
Hugo!! 🤩👍🏻
I like Hugo Jacomet RUclips Page
Hugo needs to use a better anti-perspirant!
What is that flag in the background?
So I’m 22 minutes into this video and one brand has been mentioned. When do you stop talking about yourselves and start covering shoe brands which is what I’m here for?
Hugo Jacomet: "Stop giving your money to Hugo B., Ralph L., Giorgio A."
Trenton and Heath nod, both wearing Polo by Ralph Lauren products.
Noticed that too ahahah
LMAO ayyyy
They're talking about the shoes that the brand makes not the other products that the brand makes
Ralph L. still makes a quality shirt that you can find consistently for 40 to 50 bucks. Not what it used to be but still good quality..
Hugo Jacomet is such an amazing guest. The amount of knowledge that he carries is phenomenal. The fact that he's visited so many different brands from dress shoes to suits and socks and shirts. He's simply amazing and I really enjoyed this video. Can't wait for part 2!!!
Thank you for this video!
Truly an amazing guest ❤
21:47 brands start
…but don’t miss all of the informative info before this point. 😉
Thanks, man!
I went to 9 stores today, looking for a pair of brown loafers and something didn't feel right, so everytime I left without buying anything and feeling dissatisfied. Then I went looking for an informed opinion on RUclips and I found your channel. I'm glad I did.
I've seen Hugo Jakomet's channel before a few times and found him to be interesting. I am very pleased to see him on your channel and appreciate you guys allowing him to really articulate his point and opinions, obviously why you invited him on the show. With that said it is a extremely interesting and entertaining episode and I'm really looking forward to part two! I feel this episode was done very well and once again thoroughly enjoyed.....
Thank you very much. We really appreciate you watching!
What about Brooks Bros.? Not sure who makes the brand. Johnston & Murphy? Alden?
The sad part is how so many men go for the cheapest shoe option, and don't invest in dress shoes as the foundational pieces they are. You can get away with a cheap suit, but EVERYONE looks at your feet: shoes that are glued vs. stitched make the biggest difference. If you invest in $150-$300 shoes just once, they will live beyond you with regular maintenance and resoles. But a cheap suit/slacks + cheap dress shoes mentality = I really don't care about how I look.
I was working for the discount version of one of the high end department stores in late 89 to early 90. One of my coworkers in the men's department kept promoting Allen Edmonds and another American brand name as to what to buy for dress shoes. Working in the shoe department myself, I would see the shoes as they came in, and always looked for my size. At the time, Allen's would run $300-400 from this department store, and returns and end of stock runs would get sent to the store I worked at, and discounted by 25-40% off retail. A pair came in, simple design, what appeared to be one of the high end Oxfords. My coworker was pushing me to buy them, something didn't look right about them. Looking closer at the heel block, a corner was starting to lift, and what I noticed was the leather was a veneer. Finally pointed it out to my coworker, and he was shocked. So as early at 1989/1990. Allen Edmonds were playing around with this design on some of their lower priced shoes. This may have been a test series, I am unsure, I started noticing details of dress shoes more carefully after.
Love to see these collaboration videos . Looking forward to part 2.
👍
There were a lot of comments about how a "dress" shoe brings more confidence to the wearer. The same thing happens with "work" shoes/boots. The Thorogood boots you repair for Abom79 come to mind. You are speaking specifically about dress shoes in this video but, quality bringing confidence to the wearer happens universally. Thus... the value of quality. 😉
100% 👍
It's a 26 min. vid.... I'm 10 min. in and no mention of good shoe brands..... pfffft. WTF guys?
"But the thing was that good boots lasted for years and years. A man who could afford fifty dollars had a pair of boots that'd still be keeping his feet dry in ten years' time, while the poor man who could only afford cheap boots would have spent a hundred dollars on boots in the same time and would still have wet feet."
Hopefully Rancourt makes the cut. It's hard to search for shoes with so many foot geometry concerns. I'm of a wide toe narrow heel variety, used to get my feet cast for corrective plates as a kid, heavily considering bespoke shoes for the superior fit.
👍
When I started in the mens clothing industry, I worked for a magnificent men's clothing store in New Jersey. The dress shoe line we carried was Alden from Massachusetts. I am still wearing a few pairs from 1987 and the 90s . I can't express what a great product and company Alden was. Except for their boots, I don't see much advertising for them anymore. I really hope the company is doing well.
Hugo appearing with Trenton and Heath!? This is going to be a super informative video! Just started watching 6 minutes into this episode and had to comment!
👍
If only more people became aware of quality vs mass production and opted for long lasting products. The movement is relatively small compared to the population of consumers. Big brands would be forced to create higher quality products if their margins actually took a large enough hit. As it stands the market will always be flooded with cheap throw away merchandise and plenty of customers eagerly buying them. 🧐
10 minutes in and no talk of shoes within the budget they marketed in the thumbnail. garbage.
I own almost 100 pairs of AE from many years. I, as a young man, pinched pennies to buy a Florsheim. Now, AE is the only American brand that I can buy with my size. If I want an Alden, I have to invest more than a year to get one.
👍
For decades, I didn't know much about the technical side of shoes. Just the name of brands. It was only since 2019, and thanks to channels like this on RUclips, that I started to learn. Through chance, and listening to my wife's opinion about "how they look" when buying, I did get a couple of pairs of fairly decent ones. Plus grudgingly forking out more than my previous buys (those didn't last, not surprisingly).
Armed with new knowledge from channels like this, first and foremost, I now insist the shoes I buy MUST be stitched. If not Goodyear-welt, than Blake stitch. Doesn't matter if the salesman/girl insist "how good and guaranteed" the soles had been cemented. NO! Then the uppers - definitely no more "artificial", "patent" leather.
Quality shoes certainly aren't cheap. But if one is patient as in "Good things come to those who wait", and not immediately buy something, he will find pairs at reasonable prices. Sooner or later, some brand or store will put things on sale to clear old stock. And that's the time to buy.
-- Petaling Jaya, Malaysia
We couldn’t have said it better. 👍
Can we please get a definitive list after part 2 is released? Maybe even like a website or something that you guys are constantly updating over time.
Yep, will do. We’ll also have the website links posted in the description box on video 2.
So was it just one brand that was recommended, CNES Shoemaker?
This was a great conversation. I got my first quality pair of shoes at 40. I don’t wear dress shoes for work and just didn’t know anything about them. Thanks T&H for your willingness to help me.
Excellent video. Really enjoyed listening to you guys talk about shoes. I have always been the type of guy to buy expensive work boots, since I am in them all day earning a paycheck, but go cheap on dress shoes. I'm changing my mindset. I'm going to get a nice pair of dress shoes that look and feel good.
Thanks and that’s awesome. You won’t regret it!
I'm one of those guys who speaks up strongly for Allen Edmonds' brand, simply because I wear a 15D, and I can find VARIETY in my size with them... in more than ONE last style. I see the QC isn't where it needs to be at, but I take advantages of the sales too. So, many of the "concerns" can be corrected when they go to the cobbler for a new sole. If AE is smart, the corners cut are only done in places which can be EASILY fixed: Sole leather; edge sanding, compressed leather fiber heal blocks are examples (but I don't want to see any of those cut, as a consumer). Keep the stitch count (welt to sole) good, keep the leather for the uppers good, take that extra step to ensure the gemming doesn't separate from the footbed, well centered and aligned upper leathers/designs... don't cut those corners (not saying I've seen corners cut in these areas, just clarifying things which are more important to KEEP well done).
AE has more than one line of construction, their "bench welted" being their top tier. Keep the quality uncompromised here. Let the folks who aren't "in the know" settle for the lower tier construction, and they'll smarten up as they get older. This whole "sneaker thing" they're offering now? No thanks. It's about the same as not knowing which bathroom to use.
And (Trenton and Heath), some of us are NOT the young bucks you mention. Some of us are the bald, gray bearded guys who want to keep up on knowing who's still doing the game correctly before we spend our money.
How can you be bald and gray haired?
@@stevenjm12 Read it again (grasshopper). I didn't say "haired".
@@RatdogDRB ha
We couldn’t have said it better. 👍
Agree completely with you. I’m a size 15 also, and am thrilled that Allen Edmonds makes shoes that big. I’ve bought 3 pair in the last couple of months due to the education from this channel. The quality may not be what it once was, but still much an upgrade from where I’ve been.
From Singapore! Just bought my first pair of black goodyear-welted oxfords from CNES cuz I’m starting work in a few weeks. I can attest and say that they are absolutely beautiful and I definitely feel more confident wearing them.
The best part, it was on sale and only cost $195 SGD (approx $140 USD), which is absolutely nuts.
Sonya and Hugo...i followed every speech because you are just the best..!!!!!!!!!!!!! Cheers from sunny Greece !!!!!!!!!!!! Scarosso and TLB Mallorca are the my choice
I love this collab so much. First the difference in accents, then the different knowledge that covers the spectrum and a bonus when Hugo fires at Ralph Lauren and Hugo Boss for being pay for brand and not quality and the Potters both wearing RL :)
lol that was funny
I like how you mentioned that Allen Edmonds does a good job on wider shoes. I wear a EEE. Are any of the brands that will be mentioned in part 2 also good brands for wide feet?
I second this! I find my options rather limited when it comes to quality shoes being a woman with small yet wide feet. 😔
Could not agree more with them about Allen Edmonds. I have pairs from the early 2000s up until now that even I can tell a few shortcuts. Still not a bad brand for the price point, still a huge fan of them, will continue to buy them but don't really put them in the same category as others. Definitely better than some J and M's I have seen lately for sure. Also, great to see Hugo on the channel! He's one of my favorites!
J&M is absolute trash these days. They have been for several years now.
@777triathlete I believe the Melton is their last Gyw shoe and it's not spectacular
Now that's a crossover i never knew i need! Honestly this doesn't feel like a 26 mins video, thoroughly enjoyable.. Will the 2nd part be posted here as well or in the Sartorial Talk's channel?
Thanks! We’ll have the second video posted here within the next few days.
@@TrentonHeath great, can't wait for it 👌🏻
Hugo talking smack about 'Ralph L' and Trenton and Heath are both wearing it hahahaha
You guys got no shoes on this entire video lmao
It's better to spend a lot more as long as the product is actually better. I miss the days when a certain shoe maker in Nashville made quality shoes made of good, sometimes German, leather that could be resoled. Thirty years ago, my favorite of theirs was $385, I think. Or maybe $285. Of the three pairs I once owned, two lasted more than twenty years. It's getting to the point where you can't get that level of shoe without going semi custom and spending $1000 a pair. But then, what is the dollar worth in 2024 compared to 1993?
Great show guys I love Hugo have been watching him since I retired from the USAF after twenty years and had to learn how to dress. Yes dress and with quality stuff.
Shoe topic between you guys and Hugo, I'm already sold. How society is switching, really got to me, made my heart rate spike, I want to keep my items, I want high quality. I want a history with an item and I want to support a trend towards that goal. Thank you guys for the effort and this video!
That’s great! We really appreciate it. Thank you for watching.
Indeed! I am a woman but my most complimented pieces in my wardrobe are staple pieces I’ve had for many years and soon, a decade. I hope this trend continues. I have large feet for a woman and oddly enough, mens shoes fit better and are more supportive after wearing Army boots for almost twenty years. I have found I can wear feminine clothing with a wingtip that is comfortable
Hi hugo just starting to watch your videos unbelievable great information i want to start a shoe collection i am in man in my early 50s what brand of shoes is the best bank for your money and very good quality shoes thanks for your help
I wish there was more American made clothes and shoes because of fit. European and especially Asian made clothing and shoes are not sized with Americans in mind. I don’t just mean overweight people but just taller and proportionally. Look at these three in this video. The French guy is just smaller.
Allen Edmonds makes a nice $250-300 shoe. I have a pair of Alden oxfords (thanks to eBay used) and Alden is on another level. The stitching, the attention to detail, and overall asthetics really make it feel like a premium product. You do pay a premium price too.
I have AE Oxfords and they're nice. However the leather on my Bruno Magli's (insert eye roll here) is on another level altogether. Like a Porsche interior...
The brother wearing the purple shirt sounds just like Peyton Manning!
please help? son is 21, wide, flat foot, super overpronation, need a shoe that he can wear with jeans and chino with blazer
I was certainly fooled by the name brand "Prada". The worse pair of shoes. They started creasing from the first time I wore them.
i grew up wearing leather shoes in the fifties on; I am shockold todayed at the shoes being sold today, my hurt just looking at them
m
My mom took us all to shoe stores and insisted on leather soles and heels when we were children. She said it was better for the growth of your feet. I think she was right. I grew up in good bass loafers and oxford’s as a school girl and then good white nursing shoes. My feet have never suffered. Buy well made shoes for your babies, children and even teens. Buy the best you can afford and avoid plastics.
My rule of thumb is never to buy from a company that shows on their website, no distinction between oxford and derby dress shoes.
I love finding old pairs of Allen Edmonds with the uppers in good shape and then restoring and recrafting them. I've gotten several pairs used for around 50 bucks or even less, and after some work they are better than new and an awesome value. I've developed a good relationship with a great cobbler in my area, and I've been learning and accumulating the tools to be able to do more of the work myself.
The funny thing is I never knew nothing about Allen Edmonds and I found some wilberts in really good condition for $30
If the customer is willing to pay for it why not bring back the quality they like it do you wanna buy it bring it back
Thank you for this knowledge.
As a woman, my most complimented pieces in my wardrobe are staple pieces I’ve had for many years and soon, a decade. I hope this trend continues. I have large feet for a woman and oddly enough, mens shoes fit better and are more supportive after wearing Army boots for almost twenty years. I have found I can wear feminine clothing with a wingtip that is comfortable.
This sucks, just ppl listening to themselves talk… waste of time
Hope to see shoepassion in part 2, very rarely talked about outside the german community, only seen it mentioned on the gazette as Sven is from there.
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Their the most attainable high quality shomaker in Poland, in my opinion
Honestly, the name is a little tacky.
I had the exact same orgasmic reaction when I recently bought the magnanni Ondara. Im 27 and never spent that much on footwear before 2 years ago but since I discovered magnanni I feel like I've found a missing part of my style
Awesome!
this dude needs to get to the point.... keeps blabbering on and on seems very pretentious
All of these channels comment sections just full of sycophants or bots
I'm brand new to the luxury world and really love this collaboration of 2 RUclipsrs looking to educate us newbies!
I’m impressed by Hugo’s communication skill. verbal and body language reading is superb. he knows how to engage the guys and read their body language and engage them as needed.
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Yes, you are right. The man is a magnificent public speaker and presenter. Regards
Saint Ignatius!
Interesting talk! Looking forward to the second installment. 🤙👞
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Finally got a first like on a favorite channel!
Thanks, Stephen!
Back in the day, Nettleton shoes, manufactured in Syracuse, New York, were THE premium brand. High quality, especially their shell cordovan wing tips. They were much better in construction and materials than Florsheim. Sadly, Nettleton quality began to slip during the late 1970s and eventually went out of business.
😢
We’ve resoled a number of Nettleton shoes over the years. Very good quality.
Shoes are the platform from which you build.
What a great excuse to go to Paris and instead, you guys had him visit you. 😂
Guys guys, think this through next time! 😆 😆
😂
Too full of themselves to think people want to watch a lengthy discussion about the history and current state of the dress shoe industry.
Hey, just because dress shoes may not be your thing doesn’t mean others in the world don’t want to hear about them. A big part of one of our businesses is repairing very high end dress shoes from folks around the world.
Mr. Jacomet is easier to understand than plenty of americans...
Glad to see you all got together on a video- your two channels have really upped by shoe game over tha last few years! I bought a pair of CNES loafers a year ago after watching Hugo's video, and I still get compliments when I wear it. I still can't believe how little how I paid for them. Quality definitely not as good as some other pairs I own, but it's not bad, and for that price, so hard to beat.
I can attest to the growth that comes from learning the quality of products that are out there. I had no idea there was so much involved. My wife is not as happy with you as a result! LOL
I laughed when Hugo mentions wide, “puffy” Allen Edmonds. I wear a 10.5 B, which is nearly impossible to find in a shoe. Not so difficult to see that shoes from big brands typically make my feet look very wide and out of ratio with my tall/lean frame. (6’2”, 160lbs).
What? What you wrote makes no sense. No 10.5 shoe is going to make your feet look too big for a 6'2" frame
I can relate I have the same exact shoe size. Your favorite shoe brands? Only brand I could find is Allen Edmond. No one sells narrow shoes.
I Saw Hugo, clicked immediately. I'm a sucker for crossovers like this. All three of you rock.
we do not deserve this collaboration 😭😭😭
😁
What shoes did Hugo wear???
Allen Edmonds is just like every corporation in America, make stuff just good enough to get by, and maximize the profit for the shareholders and the bonuses for the CEO and all the other pencil pushing executives.
Two of my favorite channels coming together! Thank you for all the information packed into this!
Having worn both fake and real leather shoes time to time, there is a huge difference in simply real leather upper only, leather upper/lining/midsole and all leather shoes. Real leather shoes are more durable, breathable, slowly conform to your feet. After breakin, leather stretches to fit your feet. But the fake pu leather doesnt breath. Your feet get hot and puffy.
I bought an Allen Edmonds and a Justin Fitzpatrick at the same time. It was my intention for the Allen Edmonds to be my everyday shoe and the Justin Fitzpatrick for everything but work. When they came I was beyond disappointed in the Allen Edmonds. Maybe my disappointment was exaggerated because of the beauty and fine craftsmanship of the Justin Fitzpatrick. Allen Edmonds were just shabby and beyond unrefined. The Justin Fitzpatrick was beautiful and just perfectly made. Everything about it was refined. However, I’ve been looking at the Fitzpatrick I bought and I see the same thing at meermin, cobbler union and septieme largeur. But I’m sure I’ll stick to Fitzpatrick because it fits my narrow feet beautifully. I’m sure all these brands will be featured here. Justin’s shoes are beautiful. Try them please
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Question: With the degrading of shoe production over the years, if a company was to turn the clock back and produce real quality shoes what would a realistic price be for them vs. shoes that are custom made to order?
Using Tricker's (a UK brand which has been making shoes the same way since 1829) as an example, their standard shoes/boots range from £485 to £565. Their bespoke shoes/boots start at £3,000 for the first pair, £2,500 for subsequent pairs. If your feet fit their lasts, their standard range are some of the best quality available. If you have problematic feet, bespoke is the way to go. Either way, their shoes/boots are of a quality that British Royalty choose to wear them.
The US equivalent would probably be Alden, who produce shoes/boots in a massive array of last widths & shapes. If you can get your feet measured in one of their boutiques, they will recommend a size and last to best suit your feet, avoiding the need for bespoke fittings. Prices range from roughly $600 to $1,000, depending on style & leather.
As a final thought, if you are after a pair of boots, the Spokane, WA makers (Nicks, JK, Whites) are astonishingly well made, using high quality materials & traditional methods, and a vast range of lasts. If necessary, they will modify an existing last to fit your feet - to get sized, you either visit in person, or send tracings and measurements of your feet. Reasonably sensible money ($500 to $750ish). Not the most elegant, but for their intended market, hard to beat.
Hope that helps.
Hehe. They're both wearing RL
I have two pairs of TLB Mallora that i love. Some black wholecut oxfords and burgundy chelsea boots. Curious to see if it makes the list. I will def check out CNES, never heard of them before.
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cnes is fantastic! only downside is that they have many sizes for not so wide feet (asian market orientated).
is wolf and shepherd shoes a good shoe to buy
Do you do very many ladies shoes 👠
Not sure what to think about guys selling sensibility and taste while drinking from Styrofoam cups. They even sell coffee cup merch and are not drinking from them to give them a little visibility. Just seems odd. Don't you think?
Very, very interesting video. So glad you put it together and shared it…
Thanks, Grant
Skip the first 22 minutes.
You shouldn't have to pay customs in the US on a single pair from Singapore. The US as a courtesy does not tax private imports under $800 as a courtesy to its citizens on the grounds that it is de minimis.