Very well done. Thank you. @Trenton & Heath , I am sending my shoes to you for repair. Thank you for broadening my shoe options beyond Ferragamo and Johnston and Murphy.
Great work guys. The problem is a lot of young people and also not so young are not educated about quality shoes and the entire process of shoe making art. I discovered this world recently and I'm in love. It is an art , mastery and quality materials.
Wonderful collaboration. Will take a look at these options! "The big elephant in the porcelain shop" - Hugo Jacomet. Quotes that only Hugo can pull off haha
Lemargo, Officine Creative, Untamed Street, Franceschetti. To me, these 4 brands (all made in Montegranaro) are the quintessential of under the radar brands in that price range (leaning more towards 400-500). Incredible quality and style, and they're never mentioned
Thank you informing me of these alternatives. Quick question: Which of these 4 brands is your favorite in respect to (i) lace up dress shoes (appropriate for corporate attire) and (ii) loafers (again for corporate attire) Thank you!
Good discussion. I have been watching these fellows talk shoes for the last year or so and good to see three true experts gathered at this mini summit of footwear.
Thank you for this video. I have seen some of their videos which were most informative. Lovely to watch another Sartorial talks. Despite the nearly one hour I always find them too short! No, I do not wish you to work harder! It is a testament to the quality of content!
Hugo, this is great to see you in America 🇺🇸. Trenton and Heath are both great cobblers. Work together. Bring men's fashion, suits and shoes, back home to America. Business is open.
My Dad gave me a pair of quality shoes over ten years ago. At the time I knew nothing about shoes which weren’t running shoes. The shoes my father gave me, I think that they were probably Loakes, made me feel happier and a little more elegant. M.
I love you’re channel! I know you have gotten questions about why you don’t talk about more important things than clothing in the past. And I think you represent more than you give yourself credit for We see more labor trafficking and pollution in the world today than ever before, it’s just been outsourced. So no one talks about WHY are their shoes so cheap. WHY are your shirts 5$? The materials are worth the same amount. People just aren’t getting paid along the way. And when you cut on quality, more gets thrown away. So when you you promote quality craftsmanship you promote fair trade products that will last. So it’s not that these products are expensive, it’s just surprising when you learn the true price of things. And it’s been a fun journey to begin. And something I can feel proud of as I slowly save up and get each piece along the way and comforting to know I won’t have to replace them again every year; as Trenton and Heath pointed out.
Hugo and Sonya; Trenton and Heath, thank you. As I watch this, I'm about to travel from Bristol to London in 8 hours or to the London Super Truck show 2022 Shoe - shoegazing! Boy am I looking forward to it :-) Thank you. Tony
Didn't know about their channel so thanks for the introduction. Funny to hear a discussion with a mix of French and Southern accents. Luckily I've lived in Geneva and grew up in Florida, so I understood you both perfectly!! Kudos to Sonya for the camera work!
Id love it if you could have a look at the brand Bridlen, ive tried them myself and I have to say its probably the best shoe I've seen to come out of India , id say they're as good as CNES or Fugashin if not better (depending on taste of course). As always, great video hugo, looking forward for the shoes book still :)
I'm glad you mentioned Lottusse, I think they are really underrated these days. I own 2 pairs and their quality is comparable if not better than many other brands.
Hi Hugo, great as always. As the owner of a main and creative reseller online shop of Carlos Santos, it makes me happy to see how you value them. There are many different lines: Sport (sneakers and trainers) Blake/Bologna Premium Blake (new with a super tight waist) Goodyear Welted (Carlos Santos) Handgrade Line Handcrafted Line Wish you were at the super trunk show in London this weekend! It was a pleasure meeting amazing people once more. I have owned most of the shoes on this list and I would agree with most of them!
Thank you my friend for providing these informations. I own a pair of V front derby from the Handgrade line since more than a decade and they are still in excellent shape. Cheers, Hugo
a properly useful video! thank you! Agree on Cheaney, I have a nice pair of Oxfords from them that have lasted beautifully. I also have a pair of Church Oxfords bought in 2009 (Prada sale was 1999 I think), a gift from my wife so won't complain too much, but they are just not as good as their price would imply. I still wear them but they have never broken in properly - a full day wearing them and I get blisters below my toes - never mind that the oxblood colour began scraping off on the side of the heels (and not in a nice patina way) within a year. They were sent back to Church by the shop who fully agreed with me, but Church said it was my own fault because of the way I walk and refused to do anything. nonsense of course, no other shoes of mine have had the same problem. they lost me as a customer forever. The shop offered a refund so no blame on them, but out of loyalty to the shop I kept them. Most people would never notice the flaw, however it boils my blood a little when I think about it - I'll only ever buy Church again if I find them for under €20 in a charity shop.
Thanks for sharing your experience. Joseph Cheaney (now owned by the Church family) is an excellent option. Church has lost its soul two decades ago. Cheers, Hugo
Dear Hugo and Trenton and Heath, Amazing video... I couldn't stop laughing and pushed the like button just when you said "It's like an orgasm for them". Hugo, I must say all shoe companies mentioned have their place, design aesthetic and value. I have tried and known almost all of them but it must be said that J. Fitzpatrick, what he makes and delivers is something in a league of it's own. His finishing and durability have been quite a conversion factor for some people I know. I have still not tried TLB but hopefully that will also change soon. But in my opinion Justin makes shoes that have true value for money. I mean I sometimes cannot believe that the shoe I am seeing is worth $375 or $475. I myself don't but my father owns a lot of shoes from Cleverly and I do polish them for him sometimes and I always wonder that there are many quality elements present in J. Fitzpatrick line as well. It is always great to see someone putting in so much hard work in for what they are passionate about. Just wanted to share my thoughts and for the record I do love many other brands mentioned in the video as well. I Wish You All the Best..
This video is so helpful because I struggle to find well made shoes, particularly at reasonable prices. It is also as you all said that a good pair of leather shoes not only confer confidence but comfort. As you said, many larger brands can sell shoes with reduced quality at higher prices. My biggest issue, though, is finding shoes for extra wide feet (EEEE), a genetic inheritance that is so much trouble. Any suggestions? Many of these shoemakers may only have D width or EE at most. Allen & Edmonds is not bad, but I was hoping to find different styles, such as seen on Meermin, Beckett & Simonon, and Crockett & Jones.
Dear Andrew, as Trenton explains in the video, offering a vast range of width is what sets AE apart from many other brands, and except maybe JM Weston in France (but in another price bracket), no other brands offers this kind of choices. However, some brands start to offer large widths on some models. You'll have to dig in their website and browse. All my best, Hugo
Finally! Was eagerly waiting for a video. Hugo, please do a video on top suits under $1000 budget. We know common names like Suit Supply, Spier & Mackay, Indochino, etc. But it would be great to know about other bespoke suit tailors.
I just commented on another video that I found your channel yesterday. I can’t believe you were in Columbia. I live only 15 minutes away from there and own a house there were my mom lives. I really hope to visit great places like this!
Very good was this update about men"s shoes production quality and styles. It is and that must be said again and again for the workers who make these shoes a breadless job, the earnings are and have always been poor. For example, a lawyer earns 500 Dollars an hour and the shoemaker works a whole month for 500 Dollars. Young people therefore see no future in this business because it is something like dying out. In cities the shoemakers have disappeared because the rents have become too expensive. For me the best shoemakers are the western boot makers, which is the most beautiful craft among the shoemakers, but it is dying out. Boots will soon only come from factories and most of them from China. Thanks you all, I love your videos with this old craft art.
Dear Peter, many thanks for your message. However I would be a little less pessimistic than you as more and more young men are interested in this traditional trade (there's never been as many bespoke shoemakers in Japan as today for example). The battle to protect and promote this craft is tough, but not lost. All my best wishes, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Dear Hugo Thanks for your reply, today i see more younger people they go into the orthopic shoe making. But i never saw a nice pair of handmade ortho shoes as beautyful made like bespoken shoes. Construction wise mainly cement lasted. Cheers and regards Peter
I purchased a pair of Carlos Santos boots from herringshoes and I'm very impressed with the last and quality of construction. They make some very stylish boots.
Hi Hugo, I enjoyed the mention of the quality of some excellent Ties available now, post COVID. There are some wonderful high quality ties that stand out above the rest due to the elimination of bulk tie makers. It’s exciting to find a fantastic tie. It’s in someways a lost art, but people notice. Love your channel as always. Now I have to search if you’ve done a Tie segment or two :)
By the way, your viewers in France and else where in the francophonie can't wait to see you for another Discussions Sartoriale from that room at Burgundy 😁😁😁😅. Lovers of french language would relate
How many/which of these suggested offer width options? Like many, I’ve not been pleased with AE but have, to some extent begrudgingly, bought from them due to their selection of widths/last. Suggestions?
You're right Jonathan. AE is leading the way for gentlemen with large feet. JM Weston (but on a more expansive price bracket) also offers a large choice of width. Cheers, Hugo
I enjoyed the conversation. I'm a little concerned about sizing. How would one acquire a size measurement that would convey to all of these shoe makers?
Great video - curious what you think of the French brand Loding? I stumbled across them just now and I think you are dually qualified to answer, both for your shoe knowledge and being French. They claim to specialize in goodyear welted shoes and every model I see presently is well under $500 CAD, I'm assuming that would translate to somewhere around $300 USD roughly (more so due to often finding lower pricing in the USA rather than exchange rate).. I wonder if you know anything about them both in terms of quality and/or value. Stylistically they don't look incredible, some of them look like they could be a good starting point for a patina'd shoe though. Would be a good shoe to experiment on for a first timer, won't be too afraid to ruin something very expensive. I could see the argument for getting one of these other brands that have better aesthetics and patina'd models available - but could Also could have a polisher put a patina on the Loding and still not be too far in the hole - It would likely be a similar price to importing one of these other brands. This largely has to do with limited availability on all these brands locally. Outside of Tricker's - Loding would be the easiest to find locally to try on (from the list in the video)
Loding is decent, but honestly 7ème largeur (in the same price range, maybe 20% more) is much better (especially in terms of leather quality). Cheers, Hugo
Thank you gentlemen from here in Wales. A nice knowledgable combination of the old world and the new. Some interesting brands that Hugo has presented elsewhere but great insight from our American friends. Quite impressed with the Cobbler Union loafers. Again, thank you for this interesting video.
Thank u guys for providing great footwear insights. Is there any quality shoes coming out of Turkey? Seeing some " bespoke" claims by manufacturers there ? Any guidance or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Aaron H. - Toronto , Canada.
You enrich the viewers education and encourage them to expand their awareness and appreciation towards small investments that can enhance their quality of life. Greetings from Bogota, Colombia, South America.
I bought some loafers from them in 2020, their size 45, and right now think they have one or two shoes on their website in that size. Hugo has talked them up so much I guess their inventory is low these days. ;)
I own six pairs of JFitzpatrick's. I love his shoes. By the end of the year, I'll purchase three more pairs. It was a pleasure when Justin actually called me.
I am definitely one of those who used to feel confident purchasing italian clothes because they were made in Italy 10 years ago. Now I check all labels inside out anything from Italy because they have started to cut corners outsourcing manufacturing to Romania, Turkey and even Albania. I don´t buy that crap, even if it is Armani. It is becoming harder to find "made in Italy" tagged clothes for a good value.
I got some shoes from Vienna Schuhmanufaktur for around 300 Euro (I think their production is in Hungary). Excellent quality for this low price, and I was surprised to see they also move into sneaker production.
Bonjour, Hugo. Thank you for another wonderful video. When is it appropriate to have a rubber sole rather than a leather sole on a dress shoe? The other day, I noticed a rubber sole on a beautiful oxblood derby with brouging. Merci.
Hey John, rubber sole are, by definition more casual, but they are most of the time acceptable with a business suit (if they are not too thick). Best regards, Hugo
Hugo when I search a shoe quality I make sure that the shoes are made of leather uppers. I also make there not seam shown on one side on the outside of the shoe. What other qualities should I be looking for?
Thanks for this video, it was very informative, I love a good pair of quality shoes. I checked all the brands discussed and only a few of them carry women shoes. I already know a few brands thanks to your videos, but would like to have more options and more guidance to buy a good quality pair of women shoes, so I hope there will be a video like this for women shoes one day :) I watched a video Sonia made related to the subject, but was mainly Lottuse and unfortunately they don't ship to Canada :'(
Hi March ! Cheaney, Saint Crispin, JM Weston, Office of Angela Scott are a few names to try. Also I noticed in the comment section there seem to be a few other recs. Cheers to you and hope you enjoy the process ! Sonya
Hi, thank you very much for your honest job and great talk. What about Berwick 1707 shoes. What is your honest opinion on this shoemaker? Appreciate it.
Hey again Andrej, I just looked at Berwick. Actually it seems it is what we call a "private label" supplied by a very famous factory based in Almansa. This factory supplies shoes to, at least, 50 brands (if not more). Basically those shoes are the same as many other brands you may know. I find Berwick's story-telling a little bit exaggerated though (and somehow misleading, like using 1707 under the brand name and telling the story of the creation of the Goodyear method). Otherwise, it's very decent quality. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Leeder-Cuero was the only label on the under sole I could find, there's stitching all around the sole connected to the upper (Goodyearwelted)! The heal is nailed to the sole. Are these shoe high Quality?
I love the content that you provide, love the show, and keep up the great work. would you advise where I could purchase vintage, used boots other than eBay or amazon? I'm looking for a pair of the Taft Gladiator boot in chocolate, Is there an online retailer that sells these boots
It's better not to wear the same pair of shoes every day. At least every other day or, even better, every other week if you have enough pairs. Best regards, Hugo
Hi, Great video as always. Very interesting and informative. Recently, I discovered a english shoe brand called Merwick 1707. and their shoes are made in Spain. Looking at their collection online, there are lots of English and even Italian styles to choose from (Most of them very affordable). What's your opinion on this brand?
I believe you speak about Berwick. It's a "private label" supplied by a very famous factory located in Almansa Spain (which supplies many many brands). As I already wrote on another comment, it's decent quality but I find their story-telling slightly over the top. Using 1707 under the brand name and telling all the story about Goodyear machines is a little bit misleading. Cheers, Hugo
bonjour Hugo, i have a question concernign my Santoni shoes. i have some trouble with squeaking noises. the cobblers i contacted said that its nearly impossible to eliminate the noises. if i am lucky the noise goes with time if i am lucky. but thats not satisfying for me because i nearly paid a 1000 eur for it. unfortunately i didnt wear the shoes immeadiately after i bought it so they are already 2 years old so that i cant give them back. maybe you have a recommendation about that.. merci beaucoup in advance and greetings from Munich!
Dear SP, I'm afraid the "squeaking" noise is a "mystery" (probably coming from the interaction between glue and leather somewhere inside the shoe). The only way to reduce it is to wear the shoes a lot, and this will become less and less audible normally. Cheers, Hugo
Does being owned by a publicly traded company or private equity make a difference compared to higher quality shoe companies that might be family owned? What do you guys think? Allen Edmonds is owned by Caleres. Alden is owned by an individual I believe.
Dear Jackson, we can't generalize but normally a family owned company will do a better job as such companies are less obsessed with profit (and excel spread sheets!!). Cheers, Hugo
First of all, great collaboration! Hugo is like the enciclopedia of dress shoes! Trenton & Heath are like the surgeons of dress shoes! Have a question, does anyone know which shoe maker came up with the black shoe on the first row from left to right on this video’s thumbnail? Thanks
Hugo, thank you again for the opportunity to do this video with you! I hope everyone finds it to be helpful and informative. Cheers!
Dear friends, it's been a pleasure to share this quality time with you and your beautiful family. See you soon! Hugo & Sonya
Very well done.
Thank you.
@Trenton & Heath , I am sending my shoes to you for repair.
Thank you for broadening my shoe options beyond Ferragamo and Johnston and Murphy.
@@SARTORIALTALKS
Y'all really gave formidable advice.
Well done.
Excellent!
@@Swiss_Army_Knife1780 Many thanks Andrew! Hugo
Great work guys. The problem is a lot of young people and also not so young are not educated about quality shoes and the entire process of shoe making art. I discovered this world recently and I'm in love. It is an art , mastery and quality materials.
Wonderful collaboration. Will take a look at these options!
"The big elephant in the porcelain shop" - Hugo Jacomet. Quotes that only Hugo can pull off haha
😂😂 thanks Raph! Hugo
Lemargo, Officine Creative, Untamed Street, Franceschetti.
To me, these 4 brands (all made in Montegranaro) are the quintessential of under the radar brands in that price range (leaning more towards 400-500). Incredible quality and style, and they're never mentioned
Thank you informing me of these alternatives. Quick question: Which of these 4 brands is your favorite in respect to (i) lace up dress shoes (appropriate for corporate attire) and (ii) loafers (again for corporate attire)
Thank you!
Thank you so much for this amazing video, Hugo and Sonya. Your guests are always so delightful to hear. Hugs!
Thanks Kevin! Trenton and Heath are very nice people indeed. Hugo
Two of my favourite channels in one. There is a difference between style and wearing clothes. You both nail it. @Trenton&Heath
Maybe I’ll send in my RM Williams when I wear through the next sole. Might not be worth it from Perth Australia @Trenton&Heath
Many thanks John for your kind words! Cheers, Hugo
Good discussion. I have been watching these fellows talk shoes for the last year or so and good to see three true experts gathered at this mini summit of footwear.
I don't know if this can be called a mini summit 😅 but we had a blast together for sure! All my best, Hugo
I just started the episode and I’m so excited to see Trenton and Heath! I already love this!
Many thanks Devin, and as the Beatles sing "we hope you will ll enjoy the show"! Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS I always do, Mr. Jacomet. Also, now I want new shoes.
Thank you for this video. I have seen some of their videos which were most informative. Lovely to watch another Sartorial talks. Despite the nearly one hour I always find them too short! No, I do not wish you to work harder! It is a testament to the quality of content!
You bring good news, my friend. Thanks so much, Hugo
Hugo, this is great to see you in America 🇺🇸. Trenton and Heath are both great cobblers. Work together. Bring men's fashion, suits and shoes, back home to America. Business is open.
My Dad gave me a pair of quality shoes over ten years ago. At the time I knew nothing about shoes which weren’t running shoes. The shoes my father gave me, I think that they were probably Loakes, made me feel happier and a little more elegant. M.
Thank you my friend for sharing this beautiful little story that so many people can relate too. Best! Hugo
I love you’re channel! I know you have gotten questions about why you don’t talk about more important things than clothing in the past. And I think you represent more than you give yourself credit for We see more labor trafficking and pollution in the world today than ever before, it’s just been outsourced. So no one talks about WHY are their shoes so cheap. WHY are your shirts 5$? The materials are worth the same amount. People just aren’t getting paid along the way. And when you cut on quality, more gets thrown away. So when you you promote quality craftsmanship you promote fair trade products that will last. So it’s not that these products are expensive, it’s just surprising when you learn the true price of things. And it’s been a fun journey to begin. And something I can feel proud of as I slowly save up and get each piece along the way and comforting to know I won’t have to replace them again every year; as Trenton and Heath pointed out.
Thank you John for your very important message which which, of course, we agree 100%. All our best, Hugo & team
Outstanding message and I wholeheartedly agree!
Hugo and Sonya; Trenton and Heath, thank you. As I watch this, I'm about to travel from Bristol to London in 8 hours or to the London Super Truck show 2022 Shoe - shoegazing! Boy am I looking forward to it :-) Thank you.
Tony
That's great! Please say hello to Justin for us ! Cheers, Hugo
Didn't know about their channel so thanks for the introduction. Funny to hear a discussion with a mix of French and Southern accents. Luckily I've lived in Geneva and grew up in Florida, so I understood you both perfectly!! Kudos to Sonya for the camera work!
Thanks my friend! Cheers, Hugo
Another great video and thanks for talking about Carlos Santos shoes. From Portugal, congratulations for your amazing channel.
Thank you José. We love Portugal! Cheers, Hugo
Love Carlos Santos 🇧🇷🤝🇵🇹
Id love it if you could have a look at the brand Bridlen, ive tried them myself and I have to say its probably the best shoe I've seen to come out of India , id say they're as good as CNES or Fugashin if not better (depending on taste of course). As always, great video hugo, looking forward for the shoes book still :)
Thanks for pointing us to this brand we don't know Daniel. All my best, Hugo
I'm glad you mentioned Lottusse, I think they are really underrated these days. I own 2 pairs and their quality is comparable if not better than many other brands.
Lotussen is a great company, and their women classic shoes are excellent also. All the best, Hugo
Another great talk. I love watching these Gents and it is good to see all of you together
Many thanks! Have a blessed weekend, Hugo
Bridlen, Unmarked and Taft are all worth checking out within that price point.
Hi Hugo, great as always. As the owner of a main and creative reseller online shop of Carlos Santos, it makes me happy to see how you value them.
There are many different lines:
Sport (sneakers and trainers)
Blake/Bologna
Premium Blake (new with a super tight waist)
Goodyear Welted (Carlos Santos)
Handgrade Line
Handcrafted Line
Wish you were at the super trunk show in London this weekend! It was a pleasure meeting amazing people once more.
I have owned most of the shoes on this list and I would agree with most of them!
Thank you my friend for providing these informations. I own a pair of V front derby from the Handgrade line since more than a decade and they are still in excellent shape. Cheers, Hugo
a properly useful video! thank you! Agree on Cheaney, I have a nice pair of Oxfords from them that have lasted beautifully. I also have a pair of Church Oxfords bought in 2009 (Prada sale was 1999 I think), a gift from my wife so won't complain too much, but they are just not as good as their price would imply. I still wear them but they have never broken in properly - a full day wearing them and I get blisters below my toes - never mind that the oxblood colour began scraping off on the side of the heels (and not in a nice patina way) within a year. They were sent back to Church by the shop who fully agreed with me, but Church said it was my own fault because of the way I walk and refused to do anything. nonsense of course, no other shoes of mine have had the same problem. they lost me as a customer forever. The shop offered a refund so no blame on them, but out of loyalty to the shop I kept them. Most people would never notice the flaw, however it boils my blood a little when I think about it - I'll only ever buy Church again if I find them for under €20 in a charity shop.
Thanks for sharing your experience. Joseph Cheaney (now owned by the Church family) is an excellent option. Church has lost its soul two decades ago. Cheers, Hugo
Dear Hugo and Trenton and Heath, Amazing video... I couldn't stop laughing and pushed the like button just when you said "It's like an orgasm for them".
Hugo, I must say all shoe companies mentioned have their place, design aesthetic and value. I have tried and known almost all of them but it must be said that J. Fitzpatrick, what he makes and delivers is something in a league of it's own. His finishing and durability have been quite a conversion factor for some people I know. I have still not tried TLB but hopefully that will also change soon. But in my opinion Justin makes shoes that have true value for money. I mean I sometimes cannot believe that the shoe I am seeing is worth $375 or $475. I myself don't but my father owns a lot of shoes from Cleverly and I do polish them for him sometimes and I always wonder that there are many quality elements present in J. Fitzpatrick line as well. It is always great to see someone putting in so much hard work in for what they are passionate about. Just wanted to share my thoughts and for the record I do love many other brands mentioned in the video as well. I Wish You All the Best..
Thank you so much Taimur for taking the time to share your real life experience with Justin Fitzpatrick shoes. Very appreciated. Cheers, Hugo
This video becomes a Guide , for SHOE enthusiasts great effort , much of experience & knowledge offered by these brilliant guys
Took me a while to get used to seeing Hugo without a jacket 😅 - very unusual for him. Great content as always!
This video is so helpful because I struggle to find well made shoes, particularly at reasonable prices.
It is also as you all said that a good pair of leather shoes not only confer confidence but comfort.
As you said, many larger brands can sell shoes with reduced quality at higher prices.
My biggest issue, though, is finding shoes for extra wide feet (EEEE), a genetic inheritance that is so much trouble.
Any suggestions?
Many of these shoemakers may only have D width or EE at most.
Allen & Edmonds is not bad, but I was hoping to find different styles, such as seen on Meermin, Beckett & Simonon, and Crockett & Jones.
Dear Andrew, as Trenton explains in the video, offering a vast range of width is what sets AE apart from many other brands, and except maybe JM Weston in France (but in another price bracket), no other brands offers this kind of choices. However, some brands start to offer large widths on some models. You'll have to dig in their website and browse. All my best, Hugo
Great Video Gentlemen, I myself own a few of these brands that were discussed and Carmina Shoemaker and TLB Mallorca would be my 2 favorites.
Finally! Was eagerly waiting for a video. Hugo, please do a video on top suits under $1000 budget. We know common names like Suit Supply, Spier & Mackay, Indochino, etc. But it would be great to know about other bespoke suit tailors.
Yes we'll do. But under $1000 you'll never find a real "bespoke" suit. Cheers my friend, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thanks for the reply. Sorry for not being clear enough. I meant made to measure suits under $1000.
I just commented on another video that I found your channel yesterday. I can’t believe you were in Columbia. I live only 15 minutes away from there and own a house there were my mom lives. I really hope to visit great places like this!
I was wearing mostly Designer Sneakers until I got into good leather shoes and now interested in Suits and Tailoring. It starts with good shoes.
Totally agreed, Money doesn't always buy style and taste.
Indeed. Have a wonderful weekend! Hugo
Very good was this update about men"s shoes production quality and styles. It is and that must be said again and again for the workers who make these shoes a breadless job, the earnings are and have always been poor. For example, a lawyer earns 500 Dollars an hour and the shoemaker works a whole month for 500 Dollars.
Young people therefore see no future in this business because it is something like dying out. In cities the shoemakers have disappeared because the rents have become too expensive.
For me the best shoemakers are the western boot makers, which is the most beautiful craft among the shoemakers, but it is dying out. Boots will soon only come from factories and most of them from China.
Thanks you all, I love your videos with this old craft art.
Dear Peter, many thanks for your message. However I would be a little less pessimistic than you as more and more young men are interested in this traditional trade (there's never been as many bespoke shoemakers in Japan as today for example). The battle to protect and promote this craft is tough, but not lost. All my best wishes, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS
Dear Hugo
Thanks for your reply, today i see more younger people they go into the orthopic shoe making. But i never saw a nice pair of handmade ortho shoes as beautyful made like bespoken shoes. Construction wise mainly cement lasted.
Cheers and regards
Peter
Hugo thank you for these videos. Learning a lot about fashion from your videos, may become a savant one day.
You are very welcome my friend! Cheers, Hugo
I purchased a pair of Carlos Santos boots from herringshoes and I'm very impressed with the last and quality of construction. They make some very stylish boots.
Great to get the feedback here. Thanks a lot. Hugo
Hi Hugo, I enjoyed the mention of the quality of some excellent Ties available now, post COVID. There are some wonderful high quality ties that stand out above the rest due to the elimination of bulk tie makers. It’s exciting to find a fantastic tie. It’s in someways a lost art, but people notice. Love your channel as always. Now I have to search if you’ve done a Tie segment or two :)
By the way, your viewers in France and else where in the francophonie can't wait to see you for another Discussions Sartoriale from that room at Burgundy 😁😁😁😅. Lovers of french language would relate
Sure, we are producing accordingly ! Best, Hugo
CNES: It's an acronym for Classic, Noble, Simple & Elegant
How many/which of these suggested offer width options? Like many, I’ve not been pleased with AE but have, to some extent begrudgingly, bought from them due to their selection of widths/last. Suggestions?
You're right Jonathan. AE is leading the way for gentlemen with large feet. JM Weston (but on a more expansive price bracket) also offers a large choice of width. Cheers, Hugo
I enjoyed the conversation. I'm a little concerned about sizing. How would one acquire a size measurement that would convey to all of these shoe makers?
Hi, what do you think of Floris van bommel?
@4:56 "Stop giving your money too Ralph L..." both Trenton and Heath wear a Ralph Lauren shirt haha :)
😂😂
I agree because of channels like this we are far more educated. I am very thankful!
Very kind and thanks for watching ! Hugo
Great video - curious what you think of the French brand Loding? I stumbled across them just now and I think you are dually qualified to answer, both for your shoe knowledge and being French. They claim to specialize in goodyear welted shoes and every model I see presently is well under $500 CAD, I'm assuming that would translate to somewhere around $300 USD roughly (more so due to often finding lower pricing in the USA rather than exchange rate).. I wonder if you know anything about them both in terms of quality and/or value. Stylistically they don't look incredible, some of them look like they could be a good starting point for a patina'd shoe though. Would be a good shoe to experiment on for a first timer, won't be too afraid to ruin something very expensive. I could see the argument for getting one of these other brands that have better aesthetics and patina'd models available - but could Also could have a polisher put a patina on the Loding and still not be too far in the hole - It would likely be a similar price to importing one of these other brands. This largely has to do with limited availability on all these brands locally. Outside of Tricker's - Loding would be the easiest to find locally to try on (from the list in the video)
Loding is decent, but honestly 7ème largeur (in the same price range, maybe 20% more) is much better (especially in terms of leather quality). Cheers, Hugo
Oh my god what a great team! I follow their channel and they’ve helped me a lot in my shoe education. It’s a better crossover than any Marvel film!
Thanks Julien for your enthusiasm! Cheers, Hugo
Thank you gentlemen from here in Wales. A nice knowledgable combination of the old world and the new. Some interesting brands that Hugo has presented elsewhere but great insight from our American friends. Quite impressed with the Cobbler Union loafers. Again, thank you for this interesting video.
I just noticed the two brothers present! I like those young men, they are great! Semper Fi
Hi Hugo I love your channel, I joined recently. I’m 74 , any episode on older men elegant way to dress according to age?
Merci monsieur Hugo and to ur wonderful guests.
Your are very welcome my friend, Hugo
Thank u guys for providing great footwear insights. Is there any quality shoes coming out of Turkey? Seeing some " bespoke" claims by manufacturers there ? Any guidance or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Aaron H. - Toronto , Canada.
Good afternoon Aaron, I don't know any maker from Turkey, but I'll take a look. Cheers, Hugo
You enrich the viewers education and encourage them to expand their awareness and appreciation towards small investments that can enhance their quality of life. Greetings from Bogota, Colombia, South America.
Many thanks for your kind words Daniel! Hugo
Incredible episode perfect for Fri nite. Hugo, will you be doing an episode on high quality minimalist sneaker at some point?
Dear friend, I did a first attempt here: ruclips.net/video/ibJWqcRduQw/видео.html
Cheers, Hugo
Fantastic video, as usual. Will definitely check out the list. Thank you!
You are very welcome Segun! Cheers, Hugo
-I have been interested in CNES, but as a size 11 (US) I have not found a single shoe on their website yet in that size.
I bought some loafers from them in 2020, their size 45, and right now think they have one or two shoes on their website in that size. Hugo has talked them up so much I guess their inventory is low these days. ;)
@@MatthewD-z3z You're probably right. Cheers my friend, Hugo
Drop them an email on by behalf, they will help you. Cheers, Hugo
I own six pairs of JFitzpatrick's. I love his shoes. By the end of the year, I'll purchase three more pairs. It was a pleasure when Justin actually called me.
Outstanding ! We appreciate the feedback here. Cheers ! Hugo
I bought a pair of Meermin and a pair of Grensons this year. Both are excellent and I love them.
Great feedback, thanks for taking the time. Hugo
I am definitely one of those who used to feel confident purchasing italian clothes because they were made in Italy 10 years ago. Now I check all labels inside out anything from Italy because they have started to cut corners outsourcing manufacturing to Romania, Turkey and even Albania. I don´t buy that crap, even if it is Armani. It is becoming harder to find "made in Italy" tagged clothes for a good value.
Wow, two of my favorite RUclips channel people/ in one place!!!!!!! Satorial/shoe excellence!!!!!!
Many thanks Kelly! Cheers, Hugo
I got some shoes from Vienna Schuhmanufaktur for around 300 Euro (I think their production is in Hungary). Excellent quality for this low price, and I was surprised to see they also move into sneaker production.
Thanks Liz! Warm regards, Hugo
Hi, Hugo. Would like to know what you think of Spier & Mackay shoes sometime. Similar price point and quite elegant lasts imo.
Dear friend, normally everything S&M is producing is of good value, but I don't know their shoes. Best! Hugo
What is your opinion on tucking laces into the shoes? I saw someone say you should do that for a more finished look and noticed you don't do that.
Dear Elias, that's a strange idea. But you can buy a Lazyman model (with fake laces). It's a classic! Cheers, Hugo
This video was so french and so north american at the same time, gotta love that!
😂😂 thanks Alejandro! Cheers, Hugo
Hugo Jacomet plus Trenton & Heath , real power .
One word: OUTSTANING! Semper Fi
fantastic video. greatly appreciated. exactly what I needed. Thank you
Hugo, Love this video and love the one you did about the watches!
Thank you so much my friend! Hugo
Bonjour, Hugo. Thank you for another wonderful video. When is it appropriate to have a rubber sole rather than a leather sole on a dress shoe? The other day, I noticed a rubber sole on a beautiful oxblood derby with brouging. Merci.
Hey John, rubber sole are, by definition more casual, but they are most of the time acceptable with a business suit (if they are not too thick). Best regards, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Hello, Hugo. Thank you for your reply and always impeccable sartorial guidance. Best, John
hey i knew these guys.. i am already a subscriber of trenton and heath.. i love watching them repairing shoes..
Great looking Shirt, Hugo. Where is it from?
Very well produced, thank you. M.
With great pleasure my friend, Hugo
Thank you guys! loads of knowledge and expertise.
You are very welcome Garth! Cheers, Hugo
another quality video from hugo and the team!
Thanks Anton! Hugo
Wow. Great! Fascinating. Thank you all.
You're very welcome my friend. Hugo
Hugo when I search a shoe quality I make sure that the shoes are made of leather uppers. I also make there not seam shown on one side on the outside of the shoe. What other qualities should I be looking for?
Very informative guys. Thanks.
Thanks for this video, it was very informative, I love a good pair of quality shoes. I checked all the brands discussed and only a few of them carry women shoes. I already know a few brands thanks to your videos, but would like to have more options and more guidance to buy a good quality pair of women shoes, so I hope there will be a video like this for women shoes one day :) I watched a video Sonia made related to the subject, but was mainly Lottuse and unfortunately they don't ship to Canada :'(
Hi March ! Cheaney, Saint Crispin, JM Weston, Office of Angela Scott are a few names to try. Also I noticed in the comment section there seem to be a few other recs. Cheers to you and hope you enjoy the process ! Sonya
Awesome. I know now who to send my shoes to. My old Italian cobbler died recently😢
Hi, Hugo I have a question about Crockett and Jones do you recommend? Thank you! ❤️
C&J is always great and safe buy of course. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you Hugo ❤️
Id love to know what are the best socks to wear with bespoke or high quality shoes...
Hi, thank you very much for your honest job and great talk. What about Berwick 1707 shoes. What is your honest opinion on this shoemaker? Appreciate it.
Dear Andrej, I don't know this brand enough to judge, but I will certainly take a look. Cheers, Hugo
Hey again Andrej, I just looked at Berwick. Actually it seems it is what we call a "private label" supplied by a very famous factory based in Almansa. This factory supplies shoes to, at least, 50 brands (if not more). Basically those shoes are the same as many other brands you may know. I find Berwick's story-telling a little bit exaggerated though (and somehow misleading, like using 1707 under the brand name and telling the story of the creation of the Goodyear method). Otherwise, it's very decent quality. Cheers, Hugo
fantastic video, bravo 👏🏽
Hello Sir, so in your opinion, what's the best alternative for Allen edmonds at this under $500 price point?
I think you would truly appreciate CNES. Mention my name if you decide to try them out. Cheers ! Hugo
Good morning, all the brands quoted in this episode are excellent value. I would maybe say TLB Mallorca. Cheers, Hugo
Hello.i really enjoy your videos.i need a wide shoe,but British shoes don't list wides.what do I do.Thank you.
Is there a consensus opinion on Beckett and Simonon shoes?
are leder-cuero shoes good quality and how much should pay retail? They are 100% Goodyear Welted and the heal is nail on!
Not sure I understand you question sir... Can you clarify? Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Leeder-Cuero was the only label on the under sole I could find, there's stitching all around the sole connected to the upper (Goodyearwelted)!
The heal is nailed to the sole.
Are these shoe high Quality?
I love the content that you provide, love the show, and keep up the great work. would you advise where I could purchase vintage, used boots other than eBay or amazon? I'm looking for a pair of the Taft Gladiator boot in chocolate, Is there an online retailer that sells these boots
Hi, I have church's shoes "full grain"
can I wear it on daily basis or every second day?
It's better not to wear the same pair of shoes every day. At least every other day or, even better, every other week if you have enough pairs. Best regards, Hugo
Hi, Great video as always. Very interesting and informative. Recently, I discovered a english shoe brand called Merwick 1707. and their shoes are made in Spain. Looking at their collection online, there are lots of English and even Italian styles to choose from (Most of them very affordable). What's your opinion on this brand?
I believe you speak about Berwick. It's a "private label" supplied by a very famous factory located in Almansa Spain (which supplies many many brands). As I already wrote on another comment, it's decent quality but I find their story-telling slightly over the top. Using 1707 under the brand name and telling all the story about Goodyear machines is a little bit misleading. Cheers, Hugo
lmfao!!!! Mr Hugo with some straight up gringos....lol what a treat.
😂😂 I loved it my friend. Trenton and Heath are great guys! Cheers, Hugo
I have an old pair of Bostonian shoes made in New England. They are 30 plus years old. Good old days.
You look like our friend André! Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS do you think I get a bespoke shoe made for less than a 1000 euros in Napoli? Who do you recommend?
bonjour Hugo, i have a question concernign my Santoni shoes. i have some trouble with squeaking noises. the cobblers i contacted said that its nearly impossible to eliminate the noises. if i am lucky the noise goes with time if i am lucky. but thats not satisfying for me because i nearly paid a 1000 eur for it. unfortunately i didnt wear the shoes immeadiately after i bought it so they are already 2 years old so that i cant give them back. maybe you have a recommendation about that.. merci beaucoup in advance and greetings from Munich!
Dear SP, I'm afraid the "squeaking" noise is a "mystery" (probably coming from the interaction between glue and leather somewhere inside the shoe). The only way to reduce it is to wear the shoes a lot, and this will become less and less audible normally. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS merci bien cher Hugo pour ton conseil!
Dear Hugo what you think about Bally shoes..they are made in Switzerland..and insole is made in Italy..Thanks Hugo im from Malaysia 🇲🇾
So awesome! Been buying from Herring, Pediwear cheaney barker and carlos santos. Awesome brands
Excellent choices Muhammad! Hugo
Does being owned by a publicly traded company or private equity make a difference compared to higher quality shoe companies that might be family owned? What do you guys think? Allen Edmonds is owned by Caleres. Alden is owned by an individual I believe.
Dear Jackson, we can't generalize but normally a family owned company will do a better job as such companies are less obsessed with profit (and excel spread sheets!!). Cheers, Hugo
Loake 1880 is the good ones, especially on sale, buy an size bigger when in doubt you should have space for an insole in them.
Hey People.. stop paying your money to the Hugo B.. Ralph L or to Giorgio A. Both Guys wearing Polo RL on the side lolol
😂😂😂 I know!! I didn't notice it during the show 😱😱! Cheers, Hugo
Really excellent video!
Thank you sir! Hugo
Hello gents. I noticed the link for Grenson shoes is the same as Joseph Cheney.
Thanks Christopher, I think it's fixed now. Cheers, Hugo
First of all, great collaboration!
Hugo is like the enciclopedia of dress shoes!
Trenton & Heath are like the surgeons of dress shoes!
Have a question, does anyone know which shoe maker came up with the black shoe on the first row from left to right on this video’s thumbnail?
Thanks
ohhh nice Hugo to see with them, i saw their shoe restoration
Thanks a lot! Hugo
Thank you for the content, keep the good work, big fan.
Merci Mattheus ! Hugo
What do you think about piuma rapid ? My shoes come from Italy and have that construction. I believe it’s similar to testoni shoe making.
Dear Daniel, it sounds to me like Blake Rapid but I must verify. It seems to be a "patent" by Testoni (although it may be marketing). Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS I think it’s considered a stitch down bro