How to Replace Wheel Hub & Bearing 2002-2006 Honda CR-V
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- Опубликовано: 31 июл 2024
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New Wheel Hub from 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/ib/1ASHF00173
This video shows you how to install a wheel hub and bearing on your 2002-2006 Honda CR-V. Not only can a worn wheel bearing or hub be annoying if it is noisy or vibrating, but it can also lead to accelerated wear in other parts, or unsafe driving conditions. Replacing your worn bearing or hub with a quality TRQ part is a safe, smart, decision.
This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2002 Honda CR-V
2003 Honda CR-V
2004 Honda CR-V
2005 Honda CR-V
2006 Honda CR-V
Tools you will need:
• Flat Blade Screwdriver 1aau.to/oc/1AXAA00013
• Impact Screwdriver 1aau.to/ob/1AXAA00047
• Pry Bar 1aau.to/ob/1AXAA00020
• 19mm Wrench 1aau.to/ob/1AXAA00010
• 10mm Socket 1aau.to/ob/1AXAA00017
• 12mm Socket 1aau.to/od/1AXAA00015
• 14mm Socket 1aau.to/od/1AXAA00015
• 17mm Socket 1aau.to/od/1AXAA00015
• 19mm Socket 1aau.to/od/1AXAA00043
• 22mm Socket 1aau.to/ob/1AXAA00266
• 36mm Socket 1aau.to/oa/1AAST00006
• Brake Caliper Compressor Tool. Dual Piston. Pump Style. 1aau.to/oa/1AXAA00289
• Pickle Fork
• Press
• Snap Ring Pliers
• 3/8 Inch Air Impact Gun
• Ratchet 1aau.to/oc/1AXAA00016
• Swivel
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/oa/1AXAA00044
• Brake Grease
• Copper Anti-Seize
• Liquid Thread Locker
• Center Punch 1aau.to/oa/1AXAA00055
• Hammer 1aau.to/ob/1AXAA00091
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⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While TRQ strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. TRQ is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video. 
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Best 23 minutes and 48 seconds I've spent very well explained
"Just Say No" to red thread locker, if you insist you can use blue. That's what torque specifications are for. With red you'll need a blow torch to get those bolts off again.
This was an extremely well made video, to the point , thoroughly explained and no shaky camera. Well done!
I really like your videos, clear and concise thanks
Best tutorial ever. Seriously
Your videos are the best .. I would have replaced that ball joint .. if that rubber boot wasn’t destroyed before you hammered it, it’s completely torn after you removed the lower control arm
+@MowSow Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Hi ,great tutorial thanks, good to know the correct toque settings.
Glad to see you replaced that broken wheel stud and hub .
Regards uncle Franko 👍
Wow that's very helpful 🙂 thank you sir 🙏
9:22
"carefully start prying this out of position"
*flings the snap ring out with no remorse*
thats me with every repair 😂😂
Still trying to figure out how you supported the knuckle on the press... blowing a gasket trying to figure it out.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. Btw I am your new subscriber. Looking forward to seeing more video tutorials. God bless 🙏
I appreciate this video very much. And because it's so thorough I feel a bit self-conscious asking this. Not sure what I'm not getting here so decided to write and ask you qs I'm about to order parts. On an 05 (AWD if it might matter). I am ordering 4 new backing plates out of necessity, just rusted beyond recognition. And need at least 1 left front WB but haven't determined this for sure. I could easily need 2 or more. Mileage is low, only 79k. More noisy on deliberate swerve to rights. But also have calipers that are trying in varying degrees to seize. I've decided to invest in 4 new ones. So, to make my life simpler, because arthritis has become a thing I can't ignore anymore, should I buy a whole new hub with the new bearing already pressed in it? Or is that not an option on the CRV? My wheel studs are like new because I've used NevrSeize since new. So even less reason to invest in new hub assembly I guess but I just want re and re to go as quickly as I can. No back up car where I am and quite isolated. In order to replace backing plates, I guess that's easiest if buying new hubs? But that is assuming they bolt into the back of the hub. This may not be the case. I don't hold out hope for them to not twist off but do plan to use propane and patience if need be. I hate drilling, especially when it's not possible or can't get a clean shot.
Anything I need to know regarding differences between doing the front and rear backing plates and WBs?
Thanks a lot for your advice.
0:57 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 HIT HIM UP, BRO, ITS LIFETIME LOL
no need to lub/grease beariing hub before pressing back in??
what is the parts # for the wheel bearing?
Good video. But fellows that do their own work and don’t have that big presser are kinda are screwed. Definitely going to need that big presser to get them wheel bearings out. I don’t see anyone getting them out any other way.
A small sledge and the right siE socket would do just fine I would thing
Maybe a dead blow mallet for installation
If you have a 2007 you can buy the part with the bearing already pressed in 2006 you have to have the tool to remove and replace it or the Press I rented the tool at O'Reilly's Auto I had to put down on almost a $400 deposit now I'm fixing to do the job I should be set this guy really gives the right details with the right size socket I love that pictures that show the actual nut or PCS talking about
Pressing the hub is not successful. I noticed you used a pry bar which you didn't mention on the right side. All I'm doing is damaging the dust shield. Any tips
Old splash shield that was badly rusted got discarded... good. But it was not replaced with a new one.
While the caliper is apart, the slide pins should have been removed, inspected, and freshly lubed with silicone.
The two screws are NOT Philips #2, which is why they often get the heads stripped. The screws are JIS... the Japanese standard. Has a completely different profile. JIS screwdrivers are available on Spamazon.
Why didn’t you purchase new backing plates shields and install them? Now there’s a good chance rocks will get lodged in there. Additionally the rotor should’ve been wiped down with brake cleaner to remove any possible oil residue from shipment.