I just did one of these. I found it easier to purchase the bearing and entire hub assembly as one part was a little more than the bearing itself. Much easier no bearing to struggle with pressing in and out.
These old style pressed in wheel bearings require skill, experience, and tools. I like this video because it's real, funny, and an accurate reflection of how a DIY neophyte will struggle through what they thought would be easy. Professionals who do this can make it look deceptively easy! I find authors like Scotty Kilmer to be irritating because they walk innocent people into a task that is way over their heads, with little forewarning. And pros who work in low humidity areas have no idea how much harder it is to deal with salt belt rust. Bravo to you, to be willing to take the abuse from visitors so that beginners will have more of an idea of what they are up against. I especially like how you covered many of the possible complications, all in one video! This also highlights why this kind of repair can be expensive and underpaid. Sure, it is easier and much faster in professional hands. That's not the point.
I have watched many repair videos - and I absolutely love your no-nonsense approach and went straight into things without a big dumb introduction. Also I appreciate the shade-tree style struggles you have presented, everyone always makes this little things seem non-existent when you know they totally are. Anyhow, I commend your authenticity and loved the video and appreciate you sharing the knowledge and labeling your segments. Major Kudos to you man.
A few things i must comment on, 1st the tab on the 32mm nut is no problem at all just undo the big nut, 2nd undo the big nut while the road wheel is still bolted on the car and on the ground.makes life good no dramers...good video, if the pin wont come out just undo the nut drill whats left of the pin out, easy stuff...slap the hole of the track rod with a good hammer, avoid splitting the rubber covers. use wd40, speed sensor leave it be if its ok, just follow the wire it will be pluged in under the arch.oh and the snap ring, if its being a pain blow tourch the ring it will just bend and come out.new bearing should come with a new snap ring, all good stuff...omg, when u press the hub in u need to support the inner bearing, if u dont then the inner bearing race is pushed out the back....tut tut tut...good video love it....
Thanks for this video! The comments correcting mistakes are helpful, but some people are just giving insult with nothing to add (which is childish). This video is worth keeping up, because many other tutorials use tools that other's don't have like a large press. Even though you made some mistakes, the video + comments w/ constructive criticism are a great resource!
Just a few things to add. Look at 8:57 - the heat shield has a slot so you can replace studs - not possible on my 2001 Odyssey. My hub has to be removed just to replace a stud. The hub nut comes off easily using an impact wrench. You can ignore the hub nut crimp unless you don't have access to an impact wrench. And the knuckle has a lot of rubber connections - after I removed the 2 main bolts I was able to wrestle the knuckle loose and pull push the axle out. A large screw driver pushed thru the 2 main bolts slots helped me wrestle it back into place so I could slip the bolts back in. I think the wheel assembly was designed to be maintained without having to use hammers. It is a press system. Press the bearings and hubs in - press them out - press new ones in. No hammers required. Enjoyed the video.
I have that problem with a 2007 Odyssey and you are absolutely right, I am one of those people who try to solve mechanical problems in our used cars, to save a little money since repairs in a professional workshop are very expensive, very good
I almost died when he used that ball joint remover to remove the tie rod. You could get a large hammer and hit the metal surface where the tie rod is inserted into and you won't damaged the rubber boot on the ball joint. A few hits will loosen it.
LOOOVE your clam and detailed description of steps (incl. little tips, like putting bolts back into the part that was taken off) - AND, steady camera work!!
m, I love your video very informative. I have to do this for a 2016 Honda CRV. Should be a similar process. The only thing I do different when pressing in new bearings, I put them in the freezer overnight it makes them slide in so much easier. And old-timer showed me that years ago. Again thanks for the video.
You know you can use a pitman arm removal tool for the tie rod end and it’ll save the boot and also if you take a center punch and hammer to the center of the axle shaft once the bolt is off it takes like 10 seconds to get it loose. I’ve done this job so many times it’s ridiculous and this fella is taking the long way around the fence, but thank you for making content that may help someone.
Its been 5 years now since this video was made and im wondering how long this poor new bearing lasted after all that. Also was the speed sensor able to work or was the dash lit up like Christmas morning 😅...update video please! Btw I love this video! At least you did it and learned lots 😊
Sorry to say, but there's quite a major (and potentially damaging) error towards the end of the video here. Specifically, when the hub is driven back into the bearing and knuckle, the shim that's placed on the back-side of the bearing should be smaller than the outside race of the bearing, so that pressure is applied between the hub on one side and the inside race of the bearing on the other. What the video appears to show is that a shim was used that pressed against the outside race of the bearing while performing this step, and this could very likely result in damage to the bearing (because there will be pressure on the hub-side against the bearing's center, but pressure on the back-side against the bearing's exterior, producing a shear force).
Wow! Great job. A lot of lessons only your video points out and enjoyable. Thanks for putting this out. We all learn "during" or even more "after" the process and of course given countless reviews and comments after. It really does not matter. Though busy trying to figure things out and getting the job done, you took more time doing the video just to help people. Many thanks!
I think he did a great job He is a practical fixer thats all he probaly never watched a hundred youtube vids before he done his job Like a lot of us He just praticaly winged it Good Job bro And Thanks!! I like the kind words and thoughts u had for humanity and car makers alike bro at the end of the video. Cool you must be enlightned Peace
Wow, I see a lot of comments thanking him. I dont think a lot of these people realize what they are seeing. This guys work is going to result in a pretty quick bearing failure.
When you are using the wheel bearing tool, it would be better to insert the forcing screw in the opposite direction that you did. That is, the long nut should be on the inside and head of the bolt on the outside. The long nut makes it easy to hold it with a wrench the whole time even though it is sinking into the knuckle. The tool company knows that it will sink in which is why they supply a long nut instead of a standard short nut.
Could have left the spindle on the vehicle. Just remove axle nut, brake assembly and rotor and speed sensor. Take out strut bolts to remove axle from spindle/hub, then reinstall strut bolts. Use slide hammer to pull/remove hub, press out bearing. Slide hammer saves your tie rod and lower ball joint and could possibly save your hub
So far, I found your video is the most informative and detailed steps. You are awesome instructor my friend. I appreciate you patiently explaining every steps that even slow leaner like me can follow and get the job done. Thanks to your goodness. You are the best. I wish you a good health that you will always continue to do what you love to do. All the best to you and to your loved ones. Cheers
Iam thinking that bearing ain’t going to last if you distorted the inner race and bent the snap ring ??? Is is still on same bearing?? Hopefully it’s ok
3:47 My understanding is that those 2 screws that hold the rotor are just for factory assembly ease. It allow the rotor to stay put during the assembly line process. They are not needed really, as the lug nuts do all the REAL holding.
Actually its for aligning the rotor with the hub most of this guys procedure is so off i just couldn't believe it plus thats not a speed sensor its for the abs
Put your screws where they belong. I replaced all four rotors and got all new screws. I did this 5 years ago on the same care and removing the screws was no problem. But then I lubricate everything and replace things before they brake or completely rust so I don't have these kind of problems.
@@Danimaljmartin you're both right actually. It's a wheel speed sensor for the ABS also. They're installed on all the wheels to measure wheel speeds and detects differences on all wheels (detects wheel lock ups) so the ABS gets activated.At least that's what I think.
Happy to have a 2002 Odyssey when I see how cheap they made stuff e.g. the ABS Sensor. Instead of using a Priebar to get the Balljoints off and ruin the Boot, you use another car jack under the screw and push the ball joint upwards an tap with a hammer on the side of the arm after a while it comes off. Great Vid a lot of black humor in between. Thumbs up Rgds Carsten from Germany by the way mine is original from Montreal luckily only one winter.
It was all a learning experience for Michael he will definitely do this a different way next time, ie leave the knuckle on the car and use the bearing puller/press set to remove/install it on the car. plus all the other things which make it easier and hopefully avoid a wheel alignment...;) You get a A ++ for effort an you didn't give up and call a friend or shop to help you with the rest of it. Question is how long did the job take you?
This one took the entire day. Thanks for your kindness! As you can tell, the point of posting this is to let everyone else point, laugh, and then skip all the problems I dealt with : )
No problem. I am just starting a dust shield replacement (06 pilot as both sides have rusted and fallen off while driving at different times and got stuck in between the wheel and hub) and no one has a video for this the closest you can get a wheel bearing replacement just a few steps further...My ABS sensor is frozen in just like yours and my bearing is good....Terrible design on these just to replace this backing plate you have to actually replace the bearing because when you pull off the hub inevitably the bearing will separate on you... I got the OTC Hub puller its a giant puller that fits over the hub with a long rod that goes through the axel hole, also good for taking off those tough brake rotors/drums. anyway im rambling now...thanks again for the video i have watched at least a half a dozen of the bearing videos to pickup problems people may of run into to be prepared.
@@johng1077 The ABS sensor can stay in the hub. If you trace the line back up to the wall near the engine (just behind the coil spring) you will see where it can be disconnected via an electrical "plug" just out of site. Just leave the sensor on the hub with the long wire dangling. I am talking on a 2011 CRV though,,this'06 one may vary.
Yes you could as long as no heat is involved but when you take the whole knuckle off the truck it makes it easier to not have it dangling wires around and also an opportunity to clean it out and lube it up in case it fails shortly after being put together....which happens...
if you only had watched other videos you could've saved the tie rod and the axle nut. Also you don't need any specialty tools (ie: press) -- to replace the bearing, you can hammer it out and back in if you take precautions and freeze it (it contracts a little)...just use the old bearing outer ring... hit it with the hammer into the new bearing outer ring - so you don't damage the races.
Just a FYI, you don’t need to have a pickle fork to remove the ball joint or tie rod joint, you can put on the nut alittle and the use a hammer to hit the side and or on the nut to break the joint free, this will keep from destroying the boot.
I can't see how you could press the bearing past the machined stop in the spindle. You press till it stops. Also, when you press the hub into the bearing, you need to make sure you have the back up on the inner race so you do not press out the inside race.
Do yourself a favor and watch South Main Auto do one of these... I believe Eric does an Accord... the big difference is that he uses an impact... everyone should own one of those Harbor Fraught Bauer 120vac impacts, at 60$ it's a no-brainer.
Cutting out the stake is not necessary. A hammer and punch is all you need. Or use that special tool. Insert the punch/pick horizontally in the groove, tap it with a hammer until the stake is removed.
I usually just thread a nut onto the tie rod endlink so that it's flush with the end of the threads and wack it with a hammer a few times. If your lucky it will seperate the tie rod endlink without damaging anything. Also helps to heat up the joint first with a torch on the stud side, just watch that you don't get the rubber too hot, keep the torch on the socket of the knuckle and around the stud. Then when it's still hot hit it with pb blaster or another penetrating fluid and give the end a few wacks. It's not rocket science, this method works to get just about anything apart which has been rusted together due to the expansion of the metal breaking the bond between the two parts. Or you can also just use a ball join separator or a two jaw puller. I don't even have one of those pickle fork style separators in my tool box, they are junk because they always destroy the rubber boot.
You should have used a scissor joint splitter or a piece of chain with bolt wrap around arm with bar through put put bar through bare down on bar hit arm joint
The bigest mistake is to press in the hub without or failed to support the inner bearing ring of the new bearing ! That is why the new bearing was destroyed!
By the way at 10:00 minutes, you can get a slide hammer, screw it on the hub instead of the wheel, the knuckle still on screwed of course. A couple slide the spindle come off.
Rattle the snap ring with air hammer and let it soak in penetrating oil for a few hours. That worked for me for 2006 Civic that is driven a rust best area. What ever the case, the cheapest snap ring pliers in the store are never a good purchase.
theirs probably comments that say this but you can, Ive done it hundreds of times, just smack the metal next to the ball joint. That will release it. Big momma hammer and hit it until the ball joints pops out. The metal that the ball joint goes through.
Man you mean to tell me you actually took the KNUCKLE with the bearing to a SHOP to remove the snap ring and that could have easily replaced the bearing for you for $30-$40 then you would only have to install the knuckle again🍺🥃🥃
Yup, you can imagine how I felt at that point : /. Still had a video to complete though so I finished the job. Notice however that all the video is from the passenger side because hell if I was going to go through that again on the driver side when a shop could save that much time and I had to go there anyway for the snap ring.
Just disconnect the sensor from the electrical harness on the car and remove spindle with it in one piece next time. No need to try and take it out of the knuckle unless you are replacing it.
I was going to say this. At the 13 minute mark, the long nut goes on the inside so when the bearing goes into the spindle your open end wrench can still work.
Unfortunately, by breaking it : (. Its far to weak to pry out, and when I tried to drive it out it still ended up destroyed. I'd suggest ordering a replacement and then doing what you have to, that's what I had to. Pro tip - if there's any significant damage to the sensor you can physically put it back in but it won't work and you have to replace it with a new one anyway. Ask me how I know.
These kits will self destruct if they are not lubricated. Air ratchet and cordless impacts will do them no harm if they are lubricated.
3 года назад
You're definitely not a Honda mechanic. -You could've easily get the tie rod loose by hitting from side a couple times. Nobody uses that fork. -The bend on the axle nut won't stop it from coming out, it just flattens once you start turning it. -You could also just remove the center cap and and loosen the axle nut before you remove the wheel if you don't have an impact wrench. That way nobody has to step on the brake. -Also you put the bolt for the tool backwards, that's why you needed a socket. -For the snap ring, all you have to do is get a pointy chisel, put it in 1 of the holes at 45 degree angle and hit it with hammer. Once it gets loose and starts spinning then you can use the snap ring pliers. -Also eventhough a good mechanic could've removed that sensor without breaking it, you could've just left it there and just unplug its connector. It's rigt behind the frame. It wont be on the way. You shouldn't hit it like that on the sensor side. $35-40 job became a costly job.
Thanks for the tips! For the benefit of others reading this: -You could've easily get the tie rod loose by hitting from side a couple times. Nobody uses that fork. (Did that with a hammer, then a sledge hammer; didn't work. Believe me, the fork was not the first, second or third choice : / -The bend on the axle nut won't stop it from coming out, it just flattens once you start turning it. (didn't know that... ) -You could also just remove the center cap and and loosen the axle nut before you remove the wheel if you don't have an impact wrench. That way nobody has to step on the brake. (good point - others doing this job take note : ) -Also you put the bolt for the tool backwards, that's why you needed a socket. (... Damn, you're right : / -For the snap ring, all you have to do is get a pointy chisel, put it in 1 of the holes at 45 degree angle and hit it with hammer. Once it gets loose and starts spinning then you can use the snap ring pliers. (Tried that with hammer and sledge hammer. Then used the torch. Then tried space heater followed by dry ice on the snap ring. This thing just wasn't coming off! When the guys at the shop finally got it off it took 3 people and 20 minutes; for all I know black magic may have been involved : / -Also even though a good mechanic could've removed that sensor without breaking it, you could've just left it there and just unplug its connector. It's right behind the frame. It wont be on the way. You shouldn't hit it like that on the sensor side. $35-40 job became a costly job. (Unfortunately on this model the speed sensor sticks out of the metal knuckle, blocking access to the bearing press. If I'd left it there I would have either crushed it or sheared it off : /
You work to hard and A lot of work .... To use that tool you dont have to remove outertie rod .... And the nut 36 you didn't have to cut it .. just turn it and the lip goes up again ... Lost around $45 dls rather goes that money to your pocket ... 👎🏻
I do not want to be rude, but! Before you decided to make a video of this repair, you should have watched plenty videos of others performing the same type of repairs and learn a lot of time and money saving tips. Like getting all the tools you needed for this job. No reason for you have to remove the spindle, break speed sensor, axle nut, snap ring and tie rod end boot. And you only need one socket and one wrench, you assembled the tool wrong. Tools you needed is : 1.Slide Hammer set (this will push cv-joint out of the hub and then pull the hub out of the spindle). eBay item # 383115634339 2.6pcs front end service tool kit. eBay item # 263275468397 this is a very helpful set to separate ball joint, tie rods end, pitman and idler arms. And I remove the race of the spindle with one of this tools. 3. A smaller hammer, a chisel to hit the snap ring and snap ring pliers.
Years have gone by now and when you review your video most likely will understand your lack of knowlwdge in using the appropriate tools instead of criticizing the auto manufacturer. (pullers and the bearing kit)
LOL, yeah, that's not how this works. I'm an unusually privileged vehicle owner: If I need a tool I have the money to go out and rent or buy it, and the time away from work to do so. If I need information I have a reliable internet connection and the skills necessary to use it along with prior technical training on how similar repairs work. I bring up these issues because the people who really suffer CAN'T. When I run into a problem it takes me hours of inconvenience to figure out a work around and everyone gets to laugh, learn, and avoid the mess I go through. When some of my neighbors encounter that same problem it can break them financially, because without all my privilege they're stuck paying many multiples of the real price to a mechanic. (Try this game if you think it's easy: playspent.org/html/) You know how schools serve free breakfast and lunch to a lot of kids because they can't always get enough to eat at home? Why did YOU THINK that was necessary? Automotive breakdowns are crippling to those Americans living paycheck to paycheck, and at last count that's more than half the population. If you don't have a working car, you don't get to work. If you don't get to work you get fired, which costs you your car and the roof over your head. There are countries where public transportation is reliable and readily available, but that is not the experience most of us have in America. So, when I encounter a stupid design from a multi-billion dollar company? It means some of the kids I see at the bus stop might not have food to eat tonight. Getting the design right MATTERS. A thoughtful approach to the design means savings at the production facility, a better reputation for reliability, and, oh yeah, the third or fourth owner might not go hungry because management COULDN'T BE BOTHERED to do the necessary work. Good design is a recognized field of engineering, Toyota has published a library of books on the subject, and professionals like Sandy Munro run businesses based on helping car makers do better: ruclips.net/video/KVGvwLnNyF0/видео.html In summery? OF COURSE I'm working with inferior tools under sub-optimal conditions with inadequate training! But there are so many more with so much less who suffer from problems that only annoy me. I can't fix the world, but I can at least create videos to help others avoid the issues I face. In all seriousness, if you know better? Please, Please post your own content as well. Tutorials matter and they can really help people.
@@mikearnold1626 well why do you think there are people who repair these things professionally that have the tools and knowledge so they in turn can feed their families and keep their cars on the road.This is by far one of the best designs for a front wheel bearing on a small passenger car, it is overly robust and well supported typically lasting over 170,000 miles before beginning to fail and then some cheap schmuck tries to save themselves 200 bucks by doing for themselves using the cheapest garbage parts and doing it improperly typically damaging everything they touch, later on selling the car and dumping all of that on the next person who is really in need and ends up suffering even more as they are forced to pay 1,000 to repair everything correctly . I see this garbage every day where someone just like yourself who has the funds to have it repaired correctly but are too cheap to have it done then get stuck half way because you do not know what you are doing often times putting the vehicle in a unsafe to drive condition like pushing the bearing all the way through blowing out the cast lip on the back of the knuckle that the bearing is pressed against that holds it in if a accident occurs so the bearing pushes out and then the wheel locks up causing a roll over or does not use torque specs on fasteners leaving them too loose or far too tight ending up sheering off or falling out. Just because you put it back together does not mean it will stay together when your driving your family to the store at 70 mph in 3 months time or the person you sell the car to in 8 months will not have a severe failure because of your repairs. But keep blaming the manufacturer who has used this same design for over 30 years in almost every model they make for your inability to get off your wallet and pay to have it repaired or take the time to learn how to do it and acquire the proper tools to do the job correctly before you start LOL
Yeah, I ended up doing the exact same after trying to pound out the axle from the hub. Half a can of pb blaster and hours later took the knuckle/ hub assembly with the cv axle to the machine shop. They said it was seized so much that it broke a bead of weld on the press.
I just did one of these. I found it easier to purchase the bearing and entire hub assembly as one part was a little more than the bearing itself. Much easier no bearing to struggle with pressing in and out.
These old style pressed in wheel bearings require skill, experience, and tools. I like this video because it's real, funny, and an accurate reflection of how a DIY neophyte will struggle through what they thought would be easy. Professionals who do this can make it look deceptively easy! I find authors like Scotty Kilmer to be irritating because they walk innocent people into a task that is way over their heads, with little forewarning. And pros who work in low humidity areas have no idea how much harder it is to deal with salt belt rust. Bravo to you, to be willing to take the abuse from visitors so that beginners will have more of an idea of what they are up against. I especially like how you covered many of the possible complications, all in one video! This also highlights why this kind of repair can be expensive and underpaid. Sure, it is easier and much faster in professional hands. That's not the point.
I have watched many repair videos - and I absolutely love your no-nonsense approach and went straight into things without a big dumb introduction. Also I appreciate the shade-tree style struggles you have presented, everyone always makes this little things seem non-existent when you know they totally are. Anyhow, I commend your authenticity and loved the video and appreciate you sharing the knowledge and labeling your segments. Major Kudos to you man.
It doesn't seem like you have ever done this type of work before, and you made it look a harder repair job than what it is.
That's what I was thinking. I've never heard anyone doing mechanics on youtube complain so much about normal work.
A few things i must comment on, 1st the tab on the 32mm nut is no problem at all just undo the big nut, 2nd undo the big nut while the road wheel is still bolted on the car and on the ground.makes life good no dramers...good video, if the pin wont come out just undo the nut drill whats left of the pin out, easy stuff...slap the hole of the track rod with a good hammer, avoid splitting the rubber covers. use wd40, speed sensor leave it be if its ok, just follow the wire it will be pluged in under the arch.oh and the snap ring, if its being a pain blow tourch the ring it will just bend and come out.new bearing should come with a new snap ring, all good stuff...omg, when u press the hub in u need to support the inner bearing, if u dont then the inner bearing race is pushed out the back....tut tut tut...good video love it....
Thanks for this video! The comments correcting mistakes are helpful, but some people are just giving insult with nothing to add (which is childish). This video is worth keeping up, because many other tutorials use tools that other's don't have like a large press. Even though you made some mistakes, the video + comments w/ constructive criticism are a great resource!
Just a few things to add. Look at 8:57 - the heat shield has a slot so you can replace studs - not possible on my 2001 Odyssey. My hub has to be removed just to replace a stud. The hub nut comes off easily using an impact wrench. You can ignore the hub nut crimp unless you don't have access to an impact wrench. And the knuckle has a lot of rubber connections - after I removed the 2 main bolts I was able to wrestle the knuckle loose and pull push the axle out. A large screw driver pushed thru the 2 main bolts slots helped me wrestle it back into place so I could slip the bolts back in. I think the wheel assembly was designed to be maintained without having to use hammers. It is a press system. Press the bearings and hubs in - press them out - press new ones in. No hammers required. Enjoyed the video.
Best story telling goes to this guy👏
I have that problem with a 2007 Odyssey and you are absolutely right, I am one of those people who try to solve mechanical problems in our used cars, to save a little money since repairs in a professional workshop are very expensive, very good
This guy really doesn’t know what he’s doing!
I almost died when he used that ball joint remover to remove the tie rod. You could get a large hammer and hit the metal surface where the tie rod is inserted into and you won't damaged the rubber boot on the ball joint. A few hits will loosen it.
@@harryl8234 Use 2 hammers. One on each side striking it at the same time.
😂 I agree 👍💯
The first five minutes told me all I needed to know about this guy and his experience working on cars 😂
I skimmed the video quickly and I see jack stands and jacks and buckets and blocks of wood just fuckin all over the place... Wtf is going on
LOOOVE your clam and detailed description of steps (incl. little tips, like putting bolts back into the part that was taken off) - AND, steady camera work!!
m, I love your video very informative. I have to do this for a 2016 Honda CRV. Should be a similar process. The only thing I do different when pressing in new bearings, I put them in the freezer overnight it makes them slide in so much easier. And old-timer showed me that years ago. Again thanks for the video.
You know you can use a pitman arm removal tool for the tie rod end and it’ll save the boot and also if you take a center punch and hammer to the center of the axle shaft once the bolt is off it takes like 10 seconds to get it loose. I’ve done this job so many times it’s ridiculous and this fella is taking the long way around the fence, but thank you for making content that may help someone.
You just made it way harder than it really is.
Its been 5 years now since this video was made and im wondering how long this poor new bearing lasted after all that. Also was the speed sensor able to work or was the dash lit up like Christmas morning 😅...update video please! Btw I love this video! At least you did it and learned lots 😊
thank you this was the most hones video I watch on how to do this.
Sorry to say, but there's quite a major (and potentially damaging) error towards the end of the video here. Specifically, when the hub is driven back into the bearing and knuckle, the shim that's placed on the back-side of the bearing should be smaller than the outside race of the bearing, so that pressure is applied between the hub on one side and the inside race of the bearing on the other. What the video appears to show is that a shim was used that pressed against the outside race of the bearing while performing this step, and this could very likely result in damage to the bearing (because there will be pressure on the hub-side against the bearing's center, but pressure on the back-side against the bearing's exterior, producing a shear force).
correct..that's why the dust ring popped out 17:28 and premature bearing failure will result.
Thanks for the tip. Gonna be doing my Civic bearing soon and don't want to make that mistake.
Don't forget that the back plate needs to be large enough to catch the outer knuckle, otherwise there will be no force to pull the bearing home.
This whole video is a major error!
@@BaveMage lol
Wow! Great job. A lot of lessons only your video points out and enjoyable. Thanks for putting this out. We all learn "during" or even more "after" the process and of course given countless reviews and comments after. It really does not matter. Though busy trying to figure things out and getting the job done, you took more time doing the video just to help people. Many thanks!
I think he did a great job He is a practical fixer thats all he probaly never watched a hundred youtube vids before he done his job Like a lot of us He just praticaly winged it Good Job bro And Thanks!! I like the kind words and thoughts u had for humanity and car makers alike bro at the end of the video. Cool you must be enlightned Peace
man you have a radio voice..seriously. thank you for the info. Its the little things
I love your snarky attitude!
Wow, I see a lot of comments thanking him. I dont think a lot of these people realize what they are seeing. This guys work is going to result in a pretty quick bearing failure.
When you are using the wheel bearing tool, it would be better to insert the forcing screw in the opposite direction that you did. That is, the long nut should be on the inside and head of the bolt on the outside. The long nut makes it easy to hold it with a wrench the whole time even though it is sinking into the knuckle. The tool company knows that it will sink in which is why they supply a long nut instead of a standard short nut.
i wanted to read the comments b4 i said the same thing!
I cant stop laughing this is hilarious
I laughed too 😂😂😂
😜😜😜😜
Lol 4 real
LMAO
This has to be a joke.
Could have left the spindle on the vehicle. Just remove axle nut, brake assembly and rotor and speed sensor. Take out strut bolts to remove axle from spindle/hub, then reinstall strut bolts. Use slide hammer to pull/remove hub, press out bearing. Slide hammer saves your tie rod and lower ball joint and could possibly save your hub
So far, I found your video is the most informative and detailed steps. You are awesome instructor my friend. I appreciate you patiently explaining every steps that even slow leaner like me can follow and get the job done. Thanks to your goodness. You are the best. I wish you a good health that you will always continue to do what you love to do. All the best to you and to your loved ones. Cheers
The bolts in the rotor are simply to hold them on while on the assembly line and aren't needed afterwards
put the c clip or o ring in before you press the bearing in so it stops at the right spot the first shot and it's not a spindle it's called a hub
I love how everything went wrong. 10/10
Don’t they sell the hub bearing on one piece
Iam thinking that bearing ain’t going to last if you distorted the inner race and bent the snap ring ??? Is is still on same bearing?? Hopefully it’s ok
3:47 My understanding is that those 2 screws that hold the rotor are just for factory assembly ease. It allow the rotor to stay put during the assembly line process. They are not needed really, as the lug nuts do all the REAL holding.
Actually its for aligning the rotor with the hub most of this guys procedure is so off i just couldn't believe it plus thats not a speed sensor its for the abs
Put your screws where they belong. I replaced all four rotors and got all new screws. I did this 5 years ago on the same care and removing the screws was no problem. But then I lubricate everything and replace things before they brake or completely rust so I don't have these kind of problems.
@@Danimaljmartin you're both right actually. It's a wheel speed sensor for the ABS also. They're installed on all the wheels to measure wheel speeds and detects differences on all wheels (detects wheel lock ups) so the ABS gets activated.At least that's what I think.
I liked this video solely for your commentary
Happy to have a 2002 Odyssey when I see how cheap they made stuff e.g. the ABS Sensor. Instead of using a Priebar to get the Balljoints off and ruin the Boot, you use another car jack under the screw and push the ball joint upwards an tap with a hammer on the side of the arm after a while it comes off. Great Vid a lot of black humor in between. Thumbs up Rgds Carsten from Germany by the way mine is original from Montreal luckily only one winter.
I'm replacing mines soon, got all the parts. Just too cold outside to do it.
I had my element since 2003. They last along time!
That was funny when you said you were a professional 😂
It’s called ‘taking one for the team’, thanks
brake the axle nut loose with the tire on the ground first than jack the vehicle up
It was all a learning experience for Michael he will definitely do this a different way next time, ie leave the knuckle on the car and use the bearing puller/press set to remove/install it on the car. plus all the other things which make it easier and hopefully avoid a wheel alignment...;) You get a A ++ for effort an you didn't give up and call a friend or shop to help you with the rest of it. Question is how long did the job take you?
This one took the entire day. Thanks for your kindness! As you can tell, the point of posting this is to let everyone else point, laugh, and then skip all the problems I dealt with : )
No problem. I am just starting a dust shield replacement (06 pilot as both sides have rusted and fallen off while driving at different times and got stuck in between the wheel and hub) and no one has a video for this the closest you can get a wheel bearing replacement just a few steps further...My ABS sensor is frozen in just like yours and my bearing is good....Terrible design on these just to replace this backing plate you have to actually replace the bearing because when you pull off the hub inevitably the bearing will separate on you... I got the OTC Hub puller its a giant puller that fits over the hub with a long rod that goes through the axel hole, also good for taking off those tough brake rotors/drums. anyway im rambling now...thanks again for the video i have watched at least a half a dozen of the bearing videos to pickup problems people may of run into to be prepared.
@@johng1077 The ABS sensor can stay in the hub. If you trace the line back up to the wall near the engine (just behind the coil spring) you will see where it can be disconnected via an electrical "plug" just out of site. Just leave the sensor on the hub with the long wire dangling. I am talking on a 2011 CRV though,,this'06 one may vary.
Yes you could as long as no heat is involved but when you take the whole knuckle off the truck it makes it easier to not have it dangling wires around and also an opportunity to clean it out and lube it up in case it fails shortly after being put together....which happens...
if you only had watched other videos you could've saved the tie rod and the axle nut. Also you don't need any specialty tools (ie: press) -- to replace the bearing, you can hammer it out and back in if you take precautions and freeze it (it contracts a little)...just use the old bearing outer ring... hit it with the hammer into the new bearing outer ring - so you don't damage the races.
Slide hammer works great to remove that hub before you take the knuckle off the vehicle.
Just a FYI, you don’t need to have a pickle fork to remove the ball joint or tie rod joint, you can put on the nut alittle and the use a hammer to hit the side and or on the nut to break the joint free, this will keep from destroying the boot.
I can't see how you could press the bearing past the machined stop in the spindle. You press till it stops. Also, when you press the hub into the bearing, you need to make sure you have the back up on the inner race so you do not press out the inside race.
Do yourself a favor and watch South Main Auto do one of these... I believe Eric does an Accord... the big difference is that he uses an impact... everyone should own one of those Harbor Fraught Bauer 120vac impacts, at 60$ it's a no-brainer.
Cutting out the stake is not necessary. A hammer and punch is all you need. Or use that special tool. Insert the punch/pick horizontally in the groove, tap it with a hammer until the stake is removed.
Hi. This tool kit can be used to get out the bushing of the control arm also?
The only way to learn is to do it. You did some things the hard way but you learned from it I'm sure.
I think three specialty tools are necessary, slide hammer, bearing puller and, front bearing press kit.
I usually just thread a nut onto the tie rod endlink so that it's flush with the end of the threads and wack it with a hammer a few times. If your lucky it will seperate the tie rod endlink without damaging anything. Also helps to heat up the joint first with a torch on the stud side, just watch that you don't get the rubber too hot, keep the torch on the socket of the knuckle and around the stud. Then when it's still hot hit it with pb blaster or another penetrating fluid and give the end a few wacks. It's not rocket science, this method works to get just about anything apart which has been rusted together due to the expansion of the metal breaking the bond between the two parts. Or you can also just use a ball join separator or a two jaw puller. I don't even have one of those pickle fork style separators in my tool box, they are junk because they always destroy the rubber boot.
Me gusto el video explicaste muy bien ahora voy a cambiar los baleros de carro de mi hija y ahorrar muy buen dinero gracias👍😊
No mames wey.. Esto es comedia.. No es real.. Todo lo que dijo solo es una broma.. Solo es de relajo. Lo hizo ver mil veces mas dificil de lo que es
only ONE question, where can I get that break pushing wood?
You should have used a scissor joint splitter or a piece of chain with bolt wrap around arm with bar through put put bar through bare down on bar hit arm joint
The dialogue was very entertaining!!
Better than watching Tom & Gerry
Is it same for 1999 model ?
The bigest mistake is to press in the hub without or failed to support the inner bearing ring of the new bearing ! That is why the new bearing was destroyed!
By the way at 10:00 minutes, you can get a slide hammer, screw it on the hub instead of the wheel, the knuckle still on screwed of course. A couple slide the spindle come off.
You forgot the rotor then the caliper! 😂 😆
@7:04 if you swap the long nut inside you dont need those sockets
The rotor is fastened at the factory to keep them in place as the vehicle moves down the line.
the amount of errors in this video is funny
After this need alignment?
Rattle the snap ring with air hammer and let it soak in penetrating oil for a few hours. That worked for me for 2006 Civic that is driven a rust best area. What ever the case, the cheapest snap ring pliers in the store are never a good purchase.
This guy make my day 😂
u save me thank you
Bub you just did a lot more work than you had too haha.
did not show how the tool is used, which is most important part.
also, bear in mind most people don't have that tool, what should we do?
You could use c clamp pressing to remove the tie rod that's will save the boot
Yes everything just pounded it
theirs probably comments that say this but you can, Ive done it hundreds of times, just smack the metal next to the ball joint. That will release it. Big momma hammer and hit it until the ball joints pops out. The metal that the ball joint goes through.
You got the bearing installed backwards, the metal seal is supposed to face inwards. That is why yours came out...
will this work 2018 honda hrv awd ?
RUclips certified
An air ratchet can remove the axle nut without. Decrimping the cover.
Their is no rust on this car. A dream to work on.
Get a good compressor and some air tools. No cheater bars required. A very wise investment. Always buy 5 point wrenches
A hub tamer will remove the original with ease with air tools.
Man you mean to tell me you actually took the KNUCKLE with the bearing to a SHOP to remove the snap ring and that could have easily replaced the bearing for you for $30-$40 then you would only have to install the knuckle again🍺🥃🥃
Yup, you can imagine how I felt at that point : /. Still had a video to complete though so I finished the job. Notice however that all the video is from the passenger side because hell if I was going to go through that again on the driver side when a shop could save that much time and I had to go there anyway for the snap ring.
Just disconnect the sensor from the electrical harness on the car and remove spindle with it in one piece next time. No need to try and take it out of the knuckle unless you are replacing it.
A slide hammer will remove the hub without removing the knuckle.
Is this guy who advertise Dr Squatch soaps?
Good job, dude!
The ending torque spec on the axle nut is 134 foot pounds.
134 is for the rear hub spindle nut - it's 242 for the front spindle nut
Funniest video ive seen in ages, you really dont have a clue 😂😂😂
Dude you're a riot 🤣
As u can see people, in "theory " everything works.but figured it out by your self ok .😅😅😅😅
you put the bolt and nut on backwards thats why you needed 2 sockets to push the bearing out lol
I was going to say this. At the 13 minute mark, the long nut goes on the inside so when the bearing goes into the spindle your open end wrench can still work.
My abs sensor is broken from heat. Can’t seem to push it out, how did you remove yours?
Unfortunately, by breaking it : (. Its far to weak to pry out, and when I tried to drive it out it still ended up destroyed. I'd suggest ordering a replacement and then doing what you have to, that's what I had to. Pro tip - if there's any significant damage to the sensor you can physically put it back in but it won't work and you have to replace it with a new one anyway. Ask me how I know.
These kits will self destruct if they are not lubricated. Air ratchet and cordless impacts will do them no harm if they are lubricated.
You're definitely not a Honda mechanic.
-You could've easily get the tie rod loose by hitting from side a couple times. Nobody uses that fork.
-The bend on the axle nut won't stop it from coming out, it just flattens once you start turning it.
-You could also just remove the center cap and and loosen the axle nut before you remove the wheel if you don't have an impact wrench. That way nobody has to step on the brake.
-Also you put the bolt for the tool backwards, that's why you needed a socket.
-For the snap ring, all you have to do is get a pointy chisel, put it in 1 of the holes at 45 degree angle and hit it with hammer. Once it gets loose and starts spinning then you can use the snap ring pliers.
-Also eventhough a good mechanic could've removed that sensor without breaking it, you could've just left it there and just unplug its connector. It's rigt behind the frame. It wont be on the way. You shouldn't hit it like that on the sensor side. $35-40 job became a costly job.
Thanks for the tips!
For the benefit of others reading this:
-You could've easily get the tie rod loose by hitting from side a couple times. Nobody uses that fork.
(Did that with a hammer, then a sledge hammer; didn't work. Believe me, the fork was not the first, second or third choice : /
-The bend on the axle nut won't stop it from coming out, it just flattens once you start turning it.
(didn't know that... )
-You could also just remove the center cap and and loosen the axle nut before you remove the wheel if you don't have an impact wrench. That way nobody has to step on the brake. (good point - others doing this job take note : )
-Also you put the bolt for the tool backwards, that's why you needed a socket.
(... Damn, you're right : /
-For the snap ring, all you have to do is get a pointy chisel, put it in 1 of the holes at 45 degree angle and hit it with hammer. Once it gets loose and starts spinning then you can use the snap ring pliers.
(Tried that with hammer and sledge hammer. Then used the torch. Then tried space heater followed by dry ice on the snap ring. This thing just wasn't coming off! When the guys at the shop finally got it off it took 3 people and 20 minutes; for all I know black magic may have been involved : /
-Also even though a good mechanic could've removed that sensor without breaking it, you could've just left it there and just unplug its connector. It's right behind the frame. It wont be on the way. You shouldn't hit it like that on the sensor side. $35-40 job became a costly job.
(Unfortunately on this model the speed sensor sticks out of the metal knuckle, blocking access to the bearing press. If I'd left it there I would have either crushed it or sheared it off : /
Steering ball joint? Its called a tie rod.
Stop whining and just do the job. The hub is a standard hub design.
So can a a LARGE screwdriver or bar in the vents of the brake rotor and the caliper. OR take off the center cap and put the wheel back on.
OR...
LOL.
If you took it in to remove the clip, you should have got the shop to pop out bearing and put new one in
You work to hard and A lot of work .... To use that tool you dont have to remove outertie rod .... And the nut 36 you didn't have to cut it .. just turn it and the lip goes up again ... Lost around $45 dls rather goes that money to your pocket ... 👎🏻
This was just as difficult on my Toyota Yaris 1.5 TS.😩
Substandard way the car was designed?, sorry but you used the wrong tool for the steering track rod end. 😉
Tienes que hacer el procedimiento completo
Oscar Sánchez ya cambiastes el tuyo lo quiero hacer yo solo pero que herramientas ocupó?
I do not want to be rude, but! Before you decided to make a video of this repair, you should have watched plenty videos of others performing the same type of repairs and learn a lot of time and money saving tips. Like getting all the tools you needed for this job. No reason for you have to remove the spindle, break speed sensor, axle nut, snap ring and tie rod end boot. And you only need one socket and one wrench, you assembled the tool wrong.
Tools you needed is :
1.Slide Hammer set (this will push cv-joint out of the hub and then pull the hub out of the spindle).
eBay item # 383115634339
2.6pcs front end service tool kit.
eBay item # 263275468397 this is a very helpful set to separate ball joint, tie rods end, pitman and idler arms. And I remove the race of the spindle with one of this tools.
3. A smaller hammer, a chisel to hit the snap ring and snap ring pliers.
Thanks for the tips! They come too late to help me, but everyone else who does this repair will benefit : )
Lmao 🤣 this is hilarious
Years have gone by now and when you review your video most likely will understand your lack of knowlwdge in using the appropriate tools instead of criticizing the auto manufacturer. (pullers and the bearing kit)
LOL, yeah, that's not how this works.
I'm an unusually privileged vehicle owner: If I need a tool I have the money to go out and rent or buy it, and the time away from work to do so. If I need information I have a reliable internet connection and the skills necessary to use it along with prior technical training on how similar repairs work.
I bring up these issues because the people who really suffer CAN'T.
When I run into a problem it takes me hours of inconvenience to figure out a work around and everyone gets to laugh, learn, and avoid the mess I go through.
When some of my neighbors encounter that same problem it can break them financially, because without all my privilege they're stuck paying many multiples of the real price to a mechanic. (Try this game if you think it's easy: playspent.org/html/)
You know how schools serve free breakfast and lunch to a lot of kids because they can't always get enough to eat at home?
Why did YOU THINK that was necessary?
Automotive breakdowns are crippling to those Americans living paycheck to paycheck, and at last count that's more than half the population. If you don't have a working car, you don't get to work. If you don't get to work you get fired, which costs you your car and the roof over your head. There are countries where public transportation is reliable and readily available, but that is not the experience most of us have in America.
So, when I encounter a stupid design from a multi-billion dollar company? It means some of the kids I see at the bus stop might not have food to eat tonight.
Getting the design right MATTERS. A thoughtful approach to the design means savings at the production facility, a better reputation for reliability, and, oh yeah, the third or fourth owner might not go hungry because management COULDN'T BE BOTHERED to do the necessary work.
Good design is a recognized field of engineering, Toyota has published a library of books on the subject, and professionals like Sandy Munro run businesses based on helping car makers do better: ruclips.net/video/KVGvwLnNyF0/видео.html
In summery? OF COURSE I'm working with inferior tools under sub-optimal conditions with inadequate training! But there are so many more with so much less who suffer from problems that only annoy me. I can't fix the world, but I can at least create videos to help others avoid the issues I face. In all seriousness, if you know better? Please, Please post your own content as well. Tutorials matter and they can really help people.
@@mikearnold1626 well why do you think there are people who repair these things professionally that have the tools and knowledge so they in turn can feed their families and keep their cars on the road.This is by far one of the best designs for a front wheel bearing on a small passenger car, it is overly robust and well supported typically lasting over 170,000 miles before beginning to fail and then some cheap schmuck tries to save themselves 200 bucks by doing for themselves using the cheapest garbage parts and doing it improperly typically damaging everything they touch, later on selling the car and dumping all of that on the next person who is really in need and ends up suffering even more as they are forced to pay 1,000 to repair everything correctly . I see this garbage every day where someone just like yourself who has the funds to have it repaired correctly but are too cheap to have it done then get stuck half way because you do not know what you are doing often times putting the vehicle in a unsafe to drive condition like pushing the bearing all the way through blowing out the cast lip on the back of the knuckle that the bearing is pressed against that holds it in if a accident occurs so the bearing pushes out and then the wheel locks up causing a roll over or does not use torque specs on fasteners leaving them too loose or far too tight ending up sheering off or falling out. Just because you put it back together does not mean it will stay together when your driving your family to the store at 70 mph in 3 months time or the person you sell the car to in 8 months will not have a severe failure because of your repairs. But keep blaming the manufacturer who has used this same design for over 30 years in almost every model they make for your inability to get off your wallet and pay to have it repaired or take the time to learn how to do it and acquire the proper tools to do the job correctly before you start LOL
@@jasoncook5307 ruclips.net/video/WSKi8HfcxEk/видео.html
I will send the knuckle to machine shop to press in & out the bearing and hub for $45.00 just to make my life more easy.( work smarter not harder )
Yeah, I ended up doing the exact same after trying to pound out the axle from the hub. Half a can of pb blaster and hours later took the knuckle/ hub assembly with the cv axle to the machine shop. They said it was seized so much that it broke a bead of weld on the press.
Slide hammer anyone??
You break 36mm nut loose while vehicle is on ground and in park.