Here are some links to the parts and the tools that I used in the video: Slide Hammer: amzn.to/2X6CEdS Press Tool: amzn.to/2UGbb6p Large Snap Ring Pliers: amzn.to/2UZKE33 Parts: Bearing (non SI): amzn.to/2X4SWnE Bearing (SI): amzn.to/2P86ZpX Snap Ring (non SI):amzn.to/2PRj4jr Snap Ring (SI): amzn.to/2DfOESS Hub (non SI): amzn.to/2XcZfpj Hub (SI): amzn.to/2Xa2iOX Help support the channel. Buy using my Amazon links As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same. Torque Specs: www.collegehillshonda.com/ins...
Hi Repair Geek, i noticed that the torque specs on the link you added in the description are not the same as the torque specs you provided during the video. Can you explain that? I have a 2010 Civic EX and i want to make sure I am using the correct torque. Thanks
I hope people understand a lot of time, thought and editing has gone into the making of this video. Perfect sound quality, perfect lighting and perfect camera angles with easy to see camera footage. Total quality throughout hope to see many more, thumbs up and subscribed. THANKYOU
Just wanted to take a moment to add (like so many others), I too found this video hugely helpful for my own 2009 Honda Civic wheel bearing replacement. Rented all of the tools from O'Reilly Auto Parts. Thank you for a video well done!
Don't own a Honda but pretty much the same process for all press fit bearing replacement. Very detailed and precise explanation. The work place is well organized and clean. Thanks for sharing.
Most cars are the same :(. Due to patents, they are all the same. Honda, BMW, Toyota, Etc, Etc.... They buy the parts from the manufacture and slap it on.
I just replaced one of these wheel bearings and I am an experienced technician. I knew the encoder ring for the abs sensor had to go in first because I have installed them backwards! So like a dummy instead of using a paper clip or something to see which side was magnetic I used the magnet on a pocket screwdriver. I completed the job everything went smooth and when I went on a test drive the dreaded abs light came on. Everything was installed properly and the abs sensor was fine so I was really puzzled on why I had an abs light with codes for the left front which I just replaced. Turns out my magnet on the pocket screwdriver damaged the abs encoder ring! Do not hold a magnet of any kind up to the magnetic encoder ring on the bearing as it will destroy the magnetic field on the encoder ring where you touched it with another magnet. So I will be doing this job all over again eliminating any profits I earned from doing it the first time...all this just because I touched the encoder ring side of the bearing with a magnetic pocket screwdriver...crazy
Perhaps your magnetic tipped screwdriver did not damage the abs decoder ring, but simply gave you a false positive on it's location, leading to you installing it backwards
Are you sure the Axle Nut was tight enough? On a few occasions, my torque wrench was clicking (at the specified torque) like the nut was tight and there was still a lot of play in the shaft (the nut was not fully seated). Now I usually tighten the nut until that play is gone in the CV Shaft, then torque it to spec. If the Axle Nut is loose, the ABS light will come on because the reluctor wheel is not staying aligned with the sensor. Tightening the nut will possible fix your issue. Hope this helps!
Very nice and well explained video. I just change my Civic 2008 bearing following your instructions. Thank you for taking the time doing this. Save me a lot of time.
Thanks for the tutorial. If I had a more set-up garage I would try that. But I think the average home, DIYer doesn't have half those tools and equipment working on the driveway, so the $350 my mechanic wants to replace both front bearings seems like a bargain compared to the time and effort it looks like you went through.
You have the simplest style of replacing Honda wheel bearing,All of the video out there is much harder than what you did.You replaced it without removing the knuckle off the car,Excellent job.I'm a new fan of yours now.Forget Eric the car guy.
I love to see things, like you'll never get the sensor out because of rust. All too often I see a video from areas that don't have rust and they never show how much that further complicates the issue. For me, had to replace the dust shields because they were basically gone as well.
I'm doing my 96 Civic EX and my Official Honda Service Manual didn't have the right sizes for the tooling to be used with a press. I was shocked! My bearing is considerably larger than the one for the CX and DX apparently but the Honda manual made no mention. Seeing you use the slide hammer eased my mind regarding damaging the ball joints because that is the method I will be using. Thanks!
Great video. I'm about to tackle a 2012 rusty civic bearing and trying to decide if I should remove the strut bolts or the ball joint; so it was nice to see it done the way you did as I normally remove the ball joint. I'm not a fan of using an impact wrench with the bearing press tool; especially on the re-install. Not only does the tool itself say not to; but when the bearing bottoms out on the install it is easy to over-torque it and either ruin or shorten it's lifespan. I also found that putting the bearing in a freezer (an hour or more) does help make the install much easier. Thanks for sharing.
Great explanation on the proper placement of the bearing.. It may be the most important tip for the do it yourself mechanic can get. I've seen others that do not let people know about the ABS feature built into the hub and consequently some mechanics are bewildered at why the ABS fails to work properly. Congrats on a great job in the work and the explanation. thanks also for the links on the tool s you used in this repair, in your description. going to subscribe, I'd like to see more of your work
Very good point at 13:50 about supporting the inner race. If you support anything else you will damage the bearings while pressing in the hub. Never press against bearings.
This is what I was looking for. I really don't want to deal with a stuck bearing on the hub so I want to buy the hub separate and just replace the old one. This will save me a massive headache since I don't have the tools (not confidence) to cut out the outer bearing from the hub. Thanks!
I have a lot of work cut out for me on my own Civic hatchback (eu spec) and I'm so glad you mentioned the magnetic side of the bearing, as I was kind of wondering which side that would be, as there was no obvious indication on the bearing itself. great vid, and thanks:)
Nice work buddy! Love the approach, too late for me, i already bent the upper caliper bracket arm trying to press out the bearing using a press, now it's in the bin & I'm down another car! Oh boy 😯
You did good work and completed the job but 2 things of interest to point out. The whole purpose of the press tool is complete this job without a alignment. As soon as you unbolted the strut you changed the alignment. The way I've seen it done is to remove the ball joint so you keep your alignment intact. The other point was when installing the bearing you had the forcing screw backwards, the small nut should have been on the impact gun, the large nut was about to slip off your socket. You still did a good job and extra props for actually wearing safety glasses.
The strut bolts are not eccentric (at least from the factory on this car) therefore, the alignment was not changed. One could argue that if you remove the ball joint, the alignment could change as well. In any case it splitting hairs. The car drives exactly the same and the tire wear is normal.
What a fantastic video. Sure wish you were close. At 72, I am getting old for this and sure would be nice to have someone you trust.. I replaced both rear hub bearings on my 2007 2dr Civic EX with 177K on it ( my student's car). Back right was totaling failing when I caught it. Then you could hear right rear in turns. It was rough. Replaced the two compensating bushings in the lower front control arm. Backside under was torn That stopped a clunk in bumps that I thought was top strut mount going bad. Now with all tight when you turn and let the steering wheel spin back, you can fill a shutter bump fill in steering wheel and a pretty noticeable howl as you pull out driving along straight. One axle is new. Other fills good. Hard to believe boots are still good. (My 85 and 93 failed at 80K. Even the one I replaced was still good till a shyster stuck it with a scribe down in the bottom of the V at the Honda dealer at state inspection. Years ago the boots were about $40. Now it's cheaper to put in a new axle and sure lot less messy. I guess the only true way to check is to take the axle out unless the bearing is failing loose. My question have you ever seen one go past 180K and be OK? Could my howl be in automatic transmission? It fills and shifts great. I have always used 3 quarts of synthetic Honda fluid in it ever 3rd motor oil change
Yes these cars are plenty reliable well past 180k. Just like anything else it obviously depends on maintenance and driving habits but for the most part they are good cars.
@@RepairGeek Took it down and pulled axle. Both bearing smooth and no play. Axles smooth and little shake. Guess the howl is the old tires. 180 K. Honda builds good stuff. Mine even is rust free. Brake pads are apx 3/4 gone but they are the replacement I put on at 100K. Shame the motor has front casting antifreeze leaks. But the stop leak light duty pellets seem to have fixed it. Took about 6 months. Dosed it twice. Monitored it closely and probably added a couple gallons till it finally sealed.
Very nice vid. I suggest NOT using the rotor locating screws, or at least make sure put anti-seize on them. If they are hard to remove, drill their heads off and leave the studs in the hub. Stay gold.
thanks for the torque specs. If I did it to save hiring both those tools I'd take the bottom ball joint off, take the hub and assembly off and try a range of sockets to drift the bearing out and back in again, failing that I'd take it to a garage and get the bearing pressed out /in
Would it be possible to use this same method on AWD 2004 Honda crv Rear Side? (NOT REMOVONG SPINDLE METHOD) using the tool you show? Such a great video Thank you!!
Great video! DO NOT REMOVE THE SPEED SENSOR! At least I didn’t need to in my ‘08 EX. Like he said, it will likely break off, and you can quickly look up other videos to see what a pain that is to deal with...My ABS light is on, but I think you gotta put everything together and take it for a ride before you can see if it’ll turn off! So avoid the headache and don’t touch the speed sensor if you don’t have to. Sources online also say you should test the ABS magnet with a paper clip or something small.
Thanks so much for your video and teaching. I'm going to do this on my daughter's 2005 CR-V front bearing (AWD)). Does vehicle require an alignment afterwards?
Awesome video. Thanks for not attaching the camera to your wrist and making everyone nauseous! Have a '99 Si. What is different? Is your torque link for the Si? Don't see anything in the specs referring to the Si model.
Such a great video, you helped me do this in a couple hours. Almost $400 for the freaking bearing press from Oreilly, but gets refunded on return. Thanks again, awesome video!!
Thank you for sharing this video, Great work. Ever since I replaced my front right bearing with this method. My cv shaft has excessive play which cause clunking and also abs light is goes on. What I feel is the use of slide hammer may misaligned camber or toe angle.
You didn't tighten the Axle Nut enough. Take off the wheel, pop the center cap out of the wheel, put the wheel back onto the car, then drop the car/wheel down on the ground and tighten the nut until that play is gone in the CV Shaft, then torque it to spec. The ABS light is coming on because the reluctor wheel is not staying aligned with the sensor. Tightening the nut will fix both issues. Hope this helps!
I recently had to have both axles on my 2007 Civic replaced. Now I found out the bearings need to be replaced. After watching this video I realized that if I had known the bearings needed to be replaced, I probably could have saved money by having both the axles and the bearings replaced at the same time. Incidentally, I don't understand why professional mechanics don't use hearing protection when using impact wrenches. Over the years all that noise must take a toll on your hearing. I think about that because I have tinnitus and it's no fun.
Nice video work! It might be worth replacing the $10 transmission oil seal on the other side of the CV axle that is prone to leaking. 95% of the disassembly is already done.
Fantastic vid. For an 09' Accord, I think the Spindle nut torque is 242 Ft Lbs. The background music is terrific, does anyone know what song is playing in the background? Notice the volume level is perfect. This guy is no amateur.
Your vertical control arm bushing needs replacement. Also, if you put the open part of the wheel bearing snap ring down it will rust less and be slightly easier to remove next time.
Great video, well explained, good lighting and video work. Curious, what would/did a front wheel bearing run at the shop? Do you recommend doing both at the same time or just as needed?
It's tight, but removing the tie rod end from the knuckle should get you just enough room to pull the CV axle out from the hub. I don't think this car here has adjustable struts, but for cars that do, it's best to leave that strut alone if all possible. Personally I'd hate to have a car realigned due to a wheel bearing change. Anytime you can avoid messing with the struts it's a good thing imo.
just finished doing this on my 98 crv. undoing the upper ball joint and tie rod gave barely enough clearance to remove the spindle. was a bit tight getting the bearing removal tool in place with the axle in the way but doable.
nice job thanks for sharing wish I had that tool today the civic I did today had cam bolt in the top so the front end alignment they just did is shot if I had that tool take the ball joint lose leave the struct alone . thanks again will be buying the tool
I've seen a few videos on this procedure, and yours is the best. Clear instructions... Clear video... awesome job! I need to do this on my 02 v6 Accord. In my case, the ABS sensor doesn't use magnets in the bearing. Do you know if I'll need to remove a speed sensor as part of the job? I've also seen people complain about the threads on another [brand of] bearing puller stripping out when using an impact, even when properly lubed. What has been your experience with the tool? How long have you owned it, how many times have you used it, etc?
I don't have a civic but really enjoyed this video! All the bearings I've replaced are pressed from the rear, which I think would be difficult to do with the knuckle still attacked to the car, so I've always removed it and done it on a vice. I take it you do it this way to save you having to remove the bottom ball joint?
Last week I did this on a 05 accord. After struggling to get the bearing to go In straight, I took it to a shop that damaged the abs side if the bearing during the install. I’m getting ready to attempt the job again, any tips on getting the bearing in straight?
Great video! Does this method affect the alignment or is this a way to avoid having to do the alignment. I have to do mine on a 2012 lx coupe and didn’t know it was gone until I had an alignment.
Thanks for the video. I was trying to take the spindle off the other day but it was impossible with the rust condition (no penetrant at the time). Now I know how to do it right!
Great video, easy to follow! Constructive feedback: when you say "not sure you guys can hear this or not", you can be sure we don't hear it unless you mute the background music. :D
Good video technically this car doesn't have a spindle. Its a hub carrier some call it a steering knuckle also. I only mention this because the actual title of the video is also technically incorrect. You'd get more views with the correct terminology maybe. I really enjoyed the video all the same great explanations.
Its an old Ridgid. I dont remember the model number anymore. I contacted Ridgid when I got it about getting new jaws for it and they were clueless about it. Way obsolete and they didn't even have any records of the model #. I had it sandblasted and powdercoated orange. I coated over the model number since I couldn't get parts from Ridgid any way. The only thing I wish it had was a set of pipe jaws. The jaws are 6 inches across.
Great video. I am assuming the process would be similar with the previous generation of Civics. I have an Si with both front bearings going, and this looks preferable to pulling the whole assembly and taking it to a shop to get it pressed. I can rent these tools which is far more affordable. For that matter, based on what I was charged the last time I had bears pressed at a shop, purchasing the tools would have cost less than the combined cost of the shop fees for both those jobs.
yea the tool totally worth it to just buy. seems like its a pretty versatile system, im sure there are other creative ways to use it than just pressing bearings :)
Slick, other folks and the repair manual are doing a ton more disassembly, removing the whole knuckle/splash guard from the car. I suppose they are doing it to be able to use a bench press, but this is way preferable for a driveway install
@@RepairGeek I tried, really tried, boyfriend tried, neighbor tried to pull the hub with a 5lbs slide hammer. No such luck. Wound up reassembling. Going to take the knuckle to a shop
@@wendyreid737 OTC makes a tool called the hub tamer that pulls the hub using basically a giant gear puller but, that tool is big money. I think it's $300+.
Love the video, just wish I had all the money to get all those damn tools you have, probably cheaper taking it to a shop and this is from a guy who just rebuilt his 2001 ls b18b1 and got it mounted and running today, I have this car too 2009 LX Sedan and this job looks time consuming but the detail is amazing, I gave you a like sir.
Great vid, but it's best to have the nut on the slide hammer shaft on the inside (hub side) of the hub puller, and tight, so it takes all the stress when hammer.
I thought when you press a hub in you need to make sure the cup pushes from the inside of the inner bearing ring. maybe I couldnt see the size of the cup you used just wondering your thoughts. usually rule of thumb is outside of the bearing when you press it in and the inside of the inner bearing when you press the hub back on.
Ive been using this tool on an off for the last 4hrs. Still will not release the bearing. I dont know what in doing wrong but i set the tool exactly like yours with no luck.
I have the same exact tool that you have for$59 at eBay.The problem is the biggest cup is the same size diameter of the bearing of my 2000 Honda accord.I can still use it for the civic.and pressing for accord.
You know you can buy the spindle assembly with the bearing already in it for like $60 and you could have just undone the Lower bj and then bolt the new one up and re assemble time is money ! But I love the bearing tool and for application where parts aren’t as cheap as the ones I’m suggesting this is def the way to do a bearing otherwise!!
Just curious because I'm about to attempt this on a couple VW's. I believe if you turn the wheel full lock in either direction you can slide out the axle without disconnecting the knuckle. Once the knuckle is disconnected the camber adjustment is off and would then require an alignment. I'm trying to avoid needing the alignment work done by not disconnecting the knuckle. Thoughts?
![Front Wheel Bearing Replacement (Without a Hydraulic Press) [8th Gen FG1 Honda Civic]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CUjUnbsgg_U/mqdefault.jpg)
![Front Wheel Bearing Replacement (Without a Hydraulic Press) [8th Gen FG1 Honda Civic]](/img/tr.png)
Here are some links to the parts and the tools that I used in the video:
Slide Hammer: amzn.to/2X6CEdS
Press Tool: amzn.to/2UGbb6p
Large Snap Ring Pliers: amzn.to/2UZKE33
Parts:
Bearing (non SI): amzn.to/2X4SWnE
Bearing (SI): amzn.to/2P86ZpX
Snap Ring (non SI):amzn.to/2PRj4jr
Snap Ring (SI): amzn.to/2DfOESS
Hub (non SI): amzn.to/2XcZfpj
Hub (SI): amzn.to/2Xa2iOX
Help support the channel. Buy using my Amazon links
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
Torque Specs:
www.collegehillshonda.com/ins...
Repair Geek I think the snap ring and si amazon link leads to the same thing
@@NikolaTesla64 fixed it. Thank you.
3⁴pl43
Very good video man!!!
Hi Repair Geek, i noticed that the torque specs on the link you added in the description are not the same as the torque specs you provided during the video. Can you explain that? I have a 2010 Civic EX and i want to make sure I am using the correct torque.
Thanks
I hope people understand a lot of time, thought and editing has gone into the making of this video. Perfect sound quality, perfect lighting and perfect camera angles with easy to see camera footage. Total quality throughout hope to see many more, thumbs up and subscribed. THANKYOU
Suree
You literally saved my day... It hadn't occurred to me at all that I could cut the old bearing off the hub. Thanks!!!
What did you use to cut it off with?
Thank you. After seeing this, I've decided to just buy a whole new assembly rather than buy a bunch of new tools i wont normally need.
Just wanted to take a moment to add (like so many others), I too found this video hugely helpful for my own 2009 Honda Civic wheel bearing replacement. Rented all of the tools from O'Reilly Auto Parts. Thank you for a video well done!
Great job on the video. Out of a number of videos I watched you are the only one that mentioned the magnetic side of the bearing
Don't own a Honda but pretty much the same process for all press fit bearing replacement. Very detailed and precise explanation. The work place is well organized and clean. Thanks for sharing.
Most cars are the same :(. Due to patents, they are all the same. Honda, BMW, Toyota, Etc, Etc.... They buy the parts from the manufacture and slap it on.
I just replaced one of these wheel bearings and I am an experienced technician. I knew the encoder ring for the abs sensor had to go in first because I have installed them backwards! So like a dummy instead of using a paper clip or something to see which side was magnetic I used the magnet on a pocket screwdriver. I completed the job everything went smooth and when I went on a test drive the dreaded abs light came on. Everything was installed properly and the abs sensor was fine so I was really puzzled on why I had an abs light with codes for the left front which I just replaced. Turns out my magnet on the pocket screwdriver damaged the abs encoder ring! Do not hold a magnet of any kind up to the magnetic encoder ring on the bearing as it will destroy the magnetic field on the encoder ring where you touched it with another magnet. So I will be doing this job all over again eliminating any profits I earned from doing it the first time...all this just because I touched the encoder ring side of the bearing with a magnetic pocket screwdriver...crazy
Wes Snyder Good to know thanks for sharing, I am going to try to replace one on my Gen 3 Odyssey.
Perhaps your magnetic tipped screwdriver did not damage the abs decoder ring, but simply gave you a false positive on it's location, leading to you installing it backwards
Are you sure the Axle Nut was tight enough? On a few occasions, my torque wrench was clicking (at the specified torque) like the nut was tight and there was still a lot of play in the shaft (the nut was not fully seated). Now I usually tighten the nut until that play is gone in the CV Shaft, then torque it to spec. If the Axle Nut is loose, the ABS light will come on because the reluctor wheel is not staying aligned with the sensor. Tightening the nut will possible fix your issue. Hope this helps!
Uhh 😬 done the same n just don't work on your car drunk as well...
Wow. That sucks. Thanks for the tip
Nice. I would put some anti-seize on the spleen of the CV Axle for easier removal next time and also on the hub where the wheel meet.
Very nice and well explained video. I just change my Civic 2008 bearing following your instructions. Thank you for taking the time doing this. Save me a lot of time.
Thanks for the tutorial. If I had a more set-up garage I would try that. But I think the average home, DIYer doesn't have half those tools and equipment working on the driveway, so the $350 my mechanic wants to replace both front bearings seems like a bargain compared to the time and effort it looks like you went through.
You have the simplest style of replacing Honda wheel bearing,All of the video out there is much harder than what you did.You replaced it without removing the knuckle off the car,Excellent job.I'm a new fan of yours now.Forget Eric the car guy.
I love to see things, like you'll never get the sensor out because of rust. All too often I see a video from areas that don't have rust and they never show how much that further complicates the issue. For me, had to replace the dust shields because they were basically gone as well.
I'm doing my 96 Civic EX and my Official Honda Service Manual didn't have the right sizes for the tooling to be used with a press. I was shocked! My bearing is considerably larger than the one for the CX and DX apparently but the Honda manual made no mention. Seeing you use the slide hammer eased my mind regarding damaging the ball joints because that is the method I will be using. Thanks!
Best video on this process I've found. Thanks.
Great video. I'm about to tackle a 2012 rusty civic bearing and trying to decide if I should remove the strut bolts or the ball joint; so it was nice to see it done the way you did as I normally remove the ball joint. I'm not a fan of using an impact wrench with the bearing press tool; especially on the re-install. Not only does the tool itself say not to; but when the bearing bottoms out on the install it is easy to over-torque it and either ruin or shorten it's lifespan. I also found that putting the bearing in a freezer (an hour or more) does help make the install much easier. Thanks for sharing.
That’s a great idea
Love your repair style. It gets the job done efficiently and with all the same safty gear I would use.
What is safty?
Instead of pressing on brake. You can stick a screwdriver in the top in the slots and hold the rotor while you remove the knuckle.
Wow. Thanks a lot! Just what I needed before going to do it myself. Clear and complete description of the process!
Great explanation on the proper placement of the bearing.. It may be the most important tip for the do it yourself mechanic can get. I've seen others that do not let people know about the ABS feature built into the hub and consequently some mechanics are bewildered at why the ABS fails to work properly. Congrats on a great job in the work and the explanation. thanks also for the links on the tool s you used in this repair, in your description. going to subscribe, I'd like to see more of your work
Very good point at 13:50 about supporting the inner race. If you support anything else you will damage the bearings while pressing in the hub. Never press against bearings.
Fantastic quality, very happy that I found this video!
Good mechanic and good presenter!
This is what I was looking for. I really don't want to deal with a stuck bearing on the hub so I want to buy the hub separate and just replace the old one. This will save me a massive headache since I don't have the tools (not confidence) to cut out the outer bearing from the hub. Thanks!
This is the best video I watch,do not take apart the all thing,more easy less time.wow.God bless you.
Good job, lad! It gave me that much more confidence to tackle mine.
I have a lot of work cut out for me on my own Civic hatchback (eu spec) and I'm so glad you mentioned the magnetic side of the bearing, as I was kind of wondering which side that would be, as there was no obvious indication on the bearing itself. great vid, and thanks:)
Black side out, brown in.
Nice work buddy! Love the approach, too late for me, i already bent the upper caliper bracket arm trying to press out the bearing using a press, now it's in the bin & I'm down another car! Oh boy 😯
Unbelievably helpful, especially with all the links to the tools and parts. Thank you!
Great job Sir, a real mechanic for a change, thank you
The best video on how to do it.
Wonderful video! No BS and a full video of each step.
You did good work and completed the job but 2 things of interest to point out. The whole purpose of the press tool is complete this job without a alignment. As soon as you unbolted the strut you changed the alignment. The way I've seen it done is to remove the ball joint so you keep your alignment intact.
The other point was when installing the bearing you had the forcing screw backwards, the small nut should have been on the impact gun, the large nut was about to slip off your socket.
You still did a good job and extra props for actually wearing safety glasses.
The strut bolts are not eccentric (at least from the factory on this car) therefore, the alignment was not changed. One could argue that if you remove the ball joint, the alignment could change as well. In any case it splitting hairs. The car drives exactly the same and the tire wear is normal.
@john simmons Crawl back into your Moms basement where you came from.
What a fantastic video. Sure wish you were close. At 72, I am getting old for this and sure would be nice to have someone you trust.. I replaced both rear hub bearings on my 2007 2dr Civic EX with 177K on it ( my student's car). Back right was totaling failing when I caught it. Then you could hear right rear in turns. It was rough. Replaced the two compensating bushings in the lower front control arm. Backside under was torn That stopped a clunk in bumps that I thought was top strut mount going bad. Now with all tight when you turn and let the steering wheel spin back, you can fill a shutter bump fill in steering wheel and a pretty noticeable howl as you pull out driving along straight. One axle is new. Other fills good. Hard to believe boots are still good. (My 85 and 93 failed at 80K. Even the one I replaced was still good till a shyster stuck it with a scribe down in the bottom of the V at the Honda dealer at state inspection. Years ago the boots were about $40. Now it's cheaper to put in a new axle and sure lot less messy.
I guess the only true way to check is to take the axle out unless the bearing is failing loose.
My question have you ever seen one go past 180K and be OK? Could my howl be in automatic transmission? It fills and shifts great. I have always used 3 quarts of synthetic Honda fluid in it ever 3rd motor oil change
Yes these cars are plenty reliable well past 180k. Just like anything else it obviously depends on maintenance and driving habits but for the most part they are good cars.
@@RepairGeek Took it down and pulled axle. Both bearing smooth and no play. Axles smooth and little shake. Guess the howl is the old tires. 180 K. Honda builds good stuff. Mine even is rust free. Brake pads are apx 3/4 gone but they are the replacement I put on at 100K.
Shame the motor has front casting antifreeze leaks. But the stop leak light duty pellets seem to have fixed it. Took about 6 months. Dosed it twice. Monitored it closely and probably added a couple gallons till it finally sealed.
Great video man! You're a good teacher 😁👍
Great video, help me a lot to changed wheel bearings on my car. Thanks Buddy.
Solid video man. I rarely subscribe, but you got mine.
This helped a lot. Thank you so much for putting it a great video together
Very nice vid.
I suggest NOT using the rotor locating screws, or at least make sure put anti-seize on them.
If they are hard to remove, drill their heads off and leave the studs in the hub.
Stay gold.
Great video for showing how to set up the tool not only how it works... liked and subscribed.
Great job, nice, clean, fast! What brand of bearing do you recommend? NSK sucks!!
Great video very detailed covered all the little questions I had.
So clear in your descriptions on how to do this very happy thanks mate
thanks for the torque specs. If I did it to save hiring both those tools I'd take the bottom ball joint off, take the hub and assembly off and try a range of sockets to drift the bearing out and back in again, failing that I'd take it to a garage and get the bearing pressed out /in
Would it be possible to use this same method on AWD 2004 Honda crv Rear Side? (NOT REMOVONG SPINDLE METHOD) using the tool you show? Such a great video Thank you!!
Absolutely phenomenal video sir 💪
Keep them coming
thanks you are very good to show have good time bye
Good video never use a standard ball pein hammer on brake disc always copper or lead mallet.
Great video! DO NOT REMOVE THE SPEED SENSOR! At least I didn’t need to in my ‘08 EX. Like he said, it will likely break off, and you can quickly look up other videos to see what a pain that is to deal with...My ABS light is on, but I think you gotta put everything together and take it for a ride before you can see if it’ll turn off! So avoid the headache and don’t touch the speed sensor if you don’t have to. Sources online also say you should test the ABS magnet with a paper clip or something small.
Great video and information!! You definitely know the procedure and work it takes to do this!
Thanks so much for your video and teaching. I'm going to do this on my daughter's 2005 CR-V front bearing (AWD)). Does vehicle require an alignment afterwards?
Thanks for the video. Very informative. do you think I'd be able to do this job using an electric impact gun?
Awesome video. Thanks for not attaching the camera to your wrist and making everyone nauseous!
Have a '99 Si. What is different? Is your torque link for the Si? Don't see anything in the specs referring to the Si model.
Such a great video, you helped me do this in a couple hours. Almost $400 for the freaking bearing press from Oreilly, but gets refunded on return. Thanks again, awesome video!!
Press tool is about $80-100 .
Thank you for sharing this video, Great work. Ever since I replaced my front right bearing with this method. My cv shaft has excessive play which cause clunking and also abs light is goes on.
What I feel is the use of slide hammer may misaligned camber or toe angle.
You didn't tighten the Axle Nut enough. Take off the wheel, pop the center cap out of the wheel, put the wheel back onto the car, then drop the car/wheel down on the ground and tighten the nut until that play is gone in the CV Shaft, then torque it to spec. The ABS light is coming on because the reluctor wheel is not staying aligned with the sensor. Tightening the nut will fix both issues. Hope this helps!
I recently had to have both axles on my 2007 Civic replaced. Now I found out the bearings need to be replaced. After watching this video I realized that if I had known the bearings needed to be replaced, I probably could have saved money by having both the axles and the bearings replaced at the same time. Incidentally, I don't understand why professional mechanics don't use hearing protection when using impact wrenches. Over the years all that noise must take a toll on your hearing. I think about that because I have tinnitus and it's no fun.
Nice video work! It might be worth replacing the $10 transmission oil seal on the other side of the CV axle that is prone to leaking. 95% of the disassembly is already done.
Fantastic vid. For an 09' Accord, I think the Spindle nut torque is 242 Ft Lbs. The background music is terrific, does anyone know what song is playing in the background? Notice the volume level is perfect. This guy is no amateur.
Your vertical control arm bushing needs replacement.
Also, if you put the open part of the wheel bearing snap ring down it will rust less and be slightly easier to remove next time.
Suggest putting never-seize on the rotor screws and a few drops of engine oil on the face of the axle nut before torqueing too.
Great video, well explained, good lighting and video work. Curious, what would/did a front wheel bearing run at the shop? Do you recommend doing both at the same time or just as needed?
It's tight, but removing the tie rod end from the knuckle should get you just enough room to pull the CV axle out from the hub. I don't think this car here has adjustable struts, but for cars that do, it's best to leave that strut alone if all possible. Personally I'd hate to have a car realigned due to a wheel bearing change. Anytime you can avoid messing with the struts it's a good thing imo.
Gary Riefle I would of just dropped the balljoint from the spindle
@@alfredomorfin828 yep that'll work too... anything but that strut is better.
just finished doing this on my 98 crv. undoing the upper ball joint and tie rod gave barely enough clearance to remove the spindle. was a bit tight getting the bearing removal tool in place with the axle in the way but doable.
nice job thanks for sharing wish I had that tool today the civic I did today had cam bolt in the top so the front end alignment they just did is shot if I had that tool take the ball joint lose leave the struct alone . thanks again will be buying the tool
I've seen a few videos on this procedure, and yours is the best. Clear instructions... Clear video... awesome job!
I need to do this on my 02 v6 Accord. In my case, the ABS sensor doesn't use magnets in the bearing. Do you know if I'll need to remove a speed sensor as part of the job?
I've also seen people complain about the threads on another [brand of] bearing puller stripping out when using an impact, even when properly lubed. What has been your experience with the tool? How long have you owned it, how many times have you used it, etc?
Really cool video to know how to use a wheel bearing tool. Do you think for any car should be the same prrocces ? Thanks so much.
Got those same snap ring pliers the other day from home depot. Lol. Only one the sold.
I don't have a civic but really enjoyed this video! All the bearings I've replaced are pressed from the rear, which I think would be difficult to do with the knuckle still attacked to the car, so I've always removed it and done it on a vice. I take it you do it this way to save you having to remove the bottom ball joint?
Thank you for posting very clear informative presentation exactly what I needed
Thank you buddy very great performance where I get that tools
Last week I did this on a 05 accord. After struggling to get the bearing to go In straight, I took it to a shop that damaged the abs side if the bearing during the install. I’m getting ready to attempt the job again, any tips on getting the bearing in straight?
Great video! Does this method affect the alignment or is this a way to avoid having to do the alignment. I have to do mine on a 2012 lx coupe and didn’t know it was gone until I had an alignment.
Did you have to get another alignment?
Thanks for the video. I was trying to take the spindle off the other day but it was impossible with the rust condition (no penetrant at the time).
Now I know how to do it right!
Great video, easy to follow! Constructive feedback: when you say "not sure you guys can hear this or not", you can be sure we don't hear it unless you mute the background music. :D
Very good and clear video if only they were all like this and have subscribed!
Really love the way you worked and made such a nice video thanks
Good video technically this car doesn't have a spindle. Its a hub carrier some call it a steering knuckle also. I only mention this because the actual title of the video is also technically incorrect. You'd get more views with the correct terminology maybe. I really enjoyed the video all the same great explanations.
Just what I needed for reference, perfect!
nice job, Thanks for sharing
Great filming and explanation! You made it look easy!
In a pinch if you couldn't get your hands on a slide hammer, could you use an air hammer from the rear of the hub to get it off?
That's the videos should be. Thanx man!
That big red vise on your bench is impressive! Please tell the make, model, jaw width, and maximum jaw opening. I have vise envy!
Its an old Ridgid. I dont remember the model number anymore. I contacted Ridgid when I got it about getting new jaws for it and they were clueless about it. Way obsolete and they didn't even have any records of the model #. I had it sandblasted and powdercoated orange. I coated over the model number since I couldn't get parts from Ridgid any way. The only thing I wish it had was a set of pipe jaws. The jaws are 6 inches across.
Thanks brother, your video was very helpful and informative 👍🏾, keep it going man I already subscribed to your channel.
Great video. I am assuming the process would be similar with the previous generation of Civics. I have an Si with both front bearings going, and this looks preferable to pulling the whole assembly and taking it to a shop to get it pressed. I can rent these tools which is far more affordable. For that matter, based on what I was charged the last time I had bears pressed at a shop, purchasing the tools would have cost less than the combined cost of the shop fees for both those jobs.
yea the tool totally worth it to just buy. seems like its a pretty versatile system, im sure there are other creative ways to use it than just pressing bearings :)
Slick, other folks and the repair manual are doing a ton more disassembly, removing the whole knuckle/splash guard from the car. I suppose they are doing it to be able to use a bench press, but this is way preferable for a driveway install
If you already own a shop press there is no reason you can't remove the spindle but, most people don't and this way is much quicker.
@@RepairGeek I tried, really tried, boyfriend tried, neighbor tried to pull the hub with a 5lbs slide hammer. No such luck. Wound up reassembling. Going to take the knuckle to a shop
@@wendyreid737 OTC makes a tool called the hub tamer that pulls the hub using basically a giant gear puller but, that tool is big money. I think it's $300+.
Love the video, just wish I had all the money to get all those damn tools you have, probably cheaper taking it to a shop and this is from a guy who just rebuilt his 2001 ls b18b1 and got it mounted and running today, I have this car too 2009 LX Sedan and this job looks time consuming but the detail is amazing, I gave you a like sir.
Yep its probably cheaper to take it to a shop ONCE but, this kit and procedure i showed in the video works on any press-in style bearing like this.
Best thing to do with those lock rings. Is to take a flat screw driver and tap each end of clip. It will turn in circle to lose. Works every time.
Great vid, but it's best to have the nut on the slide hammer shaft on the inside (hub side) of the hub puller, and tight, so it takes all the stress when hammer.
I thought when you press a hub in you need to make sure the cup pushes from the inside of the inner bearing ring. maybe I couldnt see the size of the cup you used just wondering your thoughts. usually rule of thumb is outside of the bearing when you press it in and the inside of the inner bearing when you press the hub back on.
Ive been using this tool on an off for the last 4hrs. Still will not release the bearing. I dont know what in doing wrong but i set the tool exactly like yours with no luck.
How many pounds is your puller?
And what's the name of the tool kit? Thanks for your video very well explained!
I have the same exact tool that you have for$59 at eBay.The problem is the biggest cup is the same size diameter of the bearing of my 2000 Honda accord.I can still use it for the civic.and pressing for accord.
Excellent video. I have a question-- is the procedure similar for an eighth generation Accord? Thanks.
Probably.
Very detailed, explanation helpful.
You know you can buy the spindle assembly with the bearing already in it for like $60 and you could have just undone the Lower bj and then bolt the new one up and re assemble time is money !
But I love the bearing tool and for application where parts aren’t as cheap as the ones I’m suggesting this is def the way to do a bearing otherwise!!
Great video, it help me with my 2013 Civic.
Thank you for not talking for 30 minutes about unrelated bullshit.
9/10
I wouldnt have used an impact.
perfect demo bro..love it...
Just curious because I'm about to attempt this on a couple VW's. I believe if you turn the wheel full lock in either direction you can slide out the axle without disconnecting the knuckle. Once the knuckle is disconnected the camber adjustment is off and would then require an alignment. I'm trying to avoid needing the alignment work done by not disconnecting the knuckle. Thoughts?
Pull the ball joint and lift up on the knuckle. That's your only other alternative to the strut bolts.
Saved me a lot of time. Thank you!
Any idea if this applies to other cars as well? Was thinking of trying to use this method on my 2003 civic if I confirm it’s a bearing.