I watched a video recently that shows you need to heat up your bed to the material you normally print, then leave it heated for 8-10 minutes, then do your bed mesh. The heating process tends to raise up the sag in the middle of the bed, making the entire bed flatter. This will be a good complement to the things you're suggesting, little brother.
Sir, you are the MVP of the day to me. Thank you for this little hack, I got my K1 Max around Black Friday, was printing daily, this morning when I tried to print, Bed leveling failed totally ending in Error Code Key:2526, probing front right corner it would drop the plate about 5mm, googled for hours, sure saw some stuff like you mentioned that you have to open the bottom etc, but i was not feeling it because I could not find stuff which was related to said Error Key, For crap and giggles I tried your workaround, and it actually worked, I had to raise the plate like 3/4 turn, it is leveling without error and printing works again!!!!! Yes I am a newb in 3D printing and thanks to you, I learned something easy but crucial! Thank you!!!!
Excellent, Just did my bed in 7 iterations and accurate to .078 range of error, no point trying to better this as the computer takes over but slightly less work to do than before, Top Man, Well Done
Good show Scratch ;) It's far from the smoothest but it allowed me to level my K! MAX bed like 80% better in 15 min so...I'm getting improvements all around so cheers to that mate.
Hey thanks! I had a range over the mesh of 1.3mm before adjustments (with bed heated). Had some issues getting good first layers on the back of the bed and it didn't seem as if the ABL could compensate for this I tried doing the Creality suggested method (screwing the bed down, releasing the belts etc) and that got me to 1.0mm. Then tried the belt skipping but I released tension on the belts using the provided spatula with a rag (to not cause scratches) to get leverage. That got me down to 0.76ish mm range but couldn't really get it better. Then I found this video and tried loosening the screws on the left/right front axis as you mentioned and after this it felt like I got some more room for adjustments with the skipping. So now I'm down to 0.59mm. Will do some tests and see if it's better or if I need to play around more 🙂
Any of you run the cal and auto level but when printing nozzle is 15 mm above the bed? Just got the K1 max. Didn't want to start messing if I don't need to.
@Scratch3DPrinting nothing helps , print is 10mm above plate. Just a big paper weight. Going to send it back. Also keeps throwing errors out, z axis vibration, ai not calibrating, list goes on
Hey scratch! I’m trying to access the 3D printer with the up address but I can’t seem to be able to get in. I get a connection has timed out message. I tried it on Chrome and Firefox with the same results. What could it be?
hmm. There are a couple of reason. Is your printer connected to your wifi? Was your printer on when you put in the ip address in the search bar? How did you type your ip address in?
@@Scratch3DPrintingPrinter on, and connected to WiFi. Computer connected to the same network. I entered the ip as 123.456.78.910 for example. Still not working.
@@Scratch3DPrinting Thanks for your reply, but I found what was wrong, and it was a layer 8 issue. I have my WiFi network separated for the 2.4 and the 5g. Although at some point I had my printer connected to the 5g, it seems that I had also connected the printer to the 2.4 at some point. Long story short I had my computer connected to the 5g and the printer to the 2.4 and that’s why it wouldn’t load. Once I connected both to the same frequency it popped right off. Thank you!
You can use Orcaslicer or a browser to see your bed mesh with you printer's ip address. Check this video for all the methods: ruclips.net/video/AttoeB2HKQI/видео.html
I also saw that video.. And I think that the problem can be definitively solved by replacing the plate with an adequate thickness of 5 or 6 millimetres.. Also because waiting 10 minutes each time to heat the plate is a nuisance.. what you do and a forcing that in my opinion can work but as the parts wear out it won't be good for a long time
I want to advise caution about this technique of forcing the screw to turn. The thing is, all three screws are attached to the same motor so that it only takes one motor to drive the z axis. What you are doing is forcing the one pulley to turn against the belt, forcing the teeth to skip while it's tensioned. That can't be good for the belt. I don't know what the effects of this will be, maybe you can get away with doing it a few times. But I'm worried that this can damage the belt. I would recommend going through the full process of opening the bottom of the unit to remove belt tension first so that you don't shorten the lifespan of the belt, or worse.
@@Scratch3DPrinting this is picture when i opened it. I fixed it, and now everything so good, hope you fix it. drive.google.com/file/d/1RZqivjkgOybk5YZYcotQxfU9RyWtjx2q/view?usp=drivesdk
Maybe it's an easy method. But with a good chance to damage parts of the printer long term. My print bed has a similar deviation. But as long as the automatism is able to cover it, i am fine.
That is very bad advice..... you should NEVER force the belt to skip in this manner. The method is fine but you must loosen the belt before or you can damage the belt.
Hmmmmm, don't skip teeth, just undo both those grub screws then you are free to turn the rod. Same as how you level the gantry on a 3 V3 SE, there is a Creality video that shows it.
I watched a video recently that shows you need to heat up your bed to the material you normally print, then leave it heated for 8-10 minutes, then do your bed mesh. The heating process tends to raise up the sag in the middle of the bed, making the entire bed flatter. This will be a good complement to the things you're suggesting, little brother.
Other people are using foil or other things on top of the heat bed and underneath the build plate to flatten out low spots.
Yes, I do find that worked well, heating the bed up, felt like it makes it more flat.
I tried using foil and it looked weird and for me it doesn't work. The bed is up and down, wavy lol
you can heat it up for 10 mins, as you start auto levelling the fans go full speed, and cool everything down, then creates the mesh on K1
Sir, you are the MVP of the day to me. Thank you for this little hack,
I got my K1 Max around Black Friday, was printing daily, this morning when I tried to print, Bed leveling failed totally ending in Error Code Key:2526, probing front right corner it would drop the plate about 5mm, googled for hours, sure saw some stuff like you mentioned that you have to open the bottom etc, but i was not feeling it because I could not find stuff which was related to said Error Key,
For crap and giggles I tried your workaround, and it actually worked, I had to raise the plate like 3/4 turn, it is leveling without error and printing works again!!!!!
Yes I am a newb in 3D printing and thanks to you, I learned something easy but crucial! Thank you!!!!
Thanks I'm glad this little trick was able to help you out on the leveling on the K1 max. It is quite a pain to get a good level on the k1 max.
Excellent, Just did my bed in 7 iterations and accurate to .078 range of error, no point trying to better this as the computer takes over but slightly less work to do than before, Top Man, Well Done
That's amazing man, 0.078 range wow!
Good show Scratch ;) It's far from the smoothest but it allowed me to level my K! MAX bed like 80% better in 15 min so...I'm getting improvements all around so cheers to that mate.
glad you found this helpful. Keep on 3d printing!
Hey thanks! I had a range over the mesh of 1.3mm before adjustments (with bed heated). Had some issues getting good first layers on the back of the bed and it didn't seem as if the ABL could compensate for this
I tried doing the Creality suggested method (screwing the bed down, releasing the belts etc) and that got me to 1.0mm. Then tried the belt skipping but I released tension on the belts using the provided spatula with a rag (to not cause scratches) to get leverage. That got me down to 0.76ish mm range but couldn't really get it better.
Then I found this video and tried loosening the screws on the left/right front axis as you mentioned and after this it felt like I got some more room for adjustments with the skipping. So now I'm down to 0.59mm. Will do some tests and see if it's better or if I need to play around more 🙂
Ahh, that's nice to hear. Hopefully, you will be able to get a flat bed mesh and get perfect first layer prints.
Which side of the mesh diagram is which. Besides it showing X-Y axis in the mesh, it could be the opposite if the x-y are flipped
Yeah, the mesh diagram is confusing, I still don't know which is which. But I think the left side of the K1 max is the home position, or position 1.
Thank you very much. I'm not the best person to disassemble a printer... usually I do more damage than fix .. your hint helped me a lot....
You're welcome! I'm glad it was helpful.
Any of you run the cal and auto level but when printing nozzle is 15 mm above the bed? Just got the K1 max. Didn't want to start messing if I don't need to.
If the nozzle is 15mm above the bed then something has to be wrong... yes the auto bed leveling does help.
@Scratch3DPrinting nothing helps , print is 10mm above plate. Just a big paper weight. Going to send it back. Also keeps throwing errors out, z axis vibration, ai not calibrating, list goes on
@Scratch3DPrinting Sorted it. DL mobaxterm, install moonraker, Ntinx and fluid. Adjust the Z_ENDSTOP_CALIBRATION to suit. Save file.
Hey scratch! I’m trying to access the 3D printer with the up address but I can’t seem to be able to get in. I get a connection has timed out message. I tried it on Chrome and Firefox with the same results. What could it be?
hmm. There are a couple of reason. Is your printer connected to your wifi? Was your printer on when you put in the ip address in the search bar? How did you type your ip address in?
@@Scratch3DPrintingPrinter on, and connected to WiFi. Computer connected to the same network. I entered the ip as 123.456.78.910 for example. Still not working.
@@Tarqui787 I'm not sure, maybe watch my newest video and see if that helps. Here: ruclips.net/video/AttoeB2HKQI/видео.html
@@Scratch3DPrinting Thanks for your reply, but I found what was wrong, and it was a layer 8 issue. I have my WiFi network separated for the 2.4 and the 5g. Although at some point I had my printer connected to the 5g, it seems that I had also connected the printer to the 2.4 at some point. Long story short I had my computer connected to the 5g and the printer to the 2.4 and that’s why it wouldn’t load. Once I connected both to the same frequency it popped right off. Thank you!
How do you get to the bed mesh tho!!!! I cant find it anywhere!!!
You can use Orcaslicer or a browser to see your bed mesh with you printer's ip address. Check this video for all the methods: ruclips.net/video/AttoeB2HKQI/видео.html
Hi! I assume you modified the firmware to have fluidd right?
I rooted my K1 max, I made many videos on it.
It's probably best to just install tramming screws under the build plate and level it that way.
Yeah, that is a good way of doing it too.
Hey
Hello
Helpful info thank you
Glad it was helpful!
I also saw that video.. And I think that the problem can be definitively solved by replacing the plate with an adequate thickness of 5 or 6 millimetres.. Also because waiting 10 minutes each time to heat the plate is a nuisance.. what you do and a forcing that in my opinion can work but as the parts wear out it won't be good for a long time
I kind of figure that would be the problem.
Smooth!
Thanks
I guess my K1 SE has having the same problem
if it has the same style then it might be.
workt perfect
glad it helped you.
awesome !
Thank you! Cheers!
I want to advise caution about this technique of forcing the screw to turn. The thing is, all three screws are attached to the same motor so that it only takes one motor to drive the z axis. What you are doing is forcing the one pulley to turn against the belt, forcing the teeth to skip while it's tensioned. That can't be good for the belt.
I don't know what the effects of this will be, maybe you can get away with doing it a few times. But I'm worried that this can damage the belt. I would recommend going through the full process of opening the bottom of the unit to remove belt tension first so that you don't shorten the lifespan of the belt, or worse.
Yea I do feel that might be the problem, but so far it has worked for me and everything seems to be working fine.
The problem is due to the screw on the expansion cluster, the screw manufacturer is faulty.
yeah, looks like the screw aren't the highest quality.
@@Scratch3DPrinting this is picture when i opened it. I fixed it, and now everything so good, hope you fix it.
drive.google.com/file/d/1RZqivjkgOybk5YZYcotQxfU9RyWtjx2q/view?usp=drivesdk
I fixed my K1 Max by returning it and buying a Bambu.
smart.
Not an A1 i hope 😁
my bed is 0,8 out of the box so I.m good
That's nice to hear.
Maybe it's an easy method. But with a good chance to damage parts of the printer long term.
My print bed has a similar deviation. But as long as the automatism is able to cover it, i am fine.
Great point
That is very bad advice..... you should NEVER force the belt to skip in this manner. The method is fine but you must loosen the belt before or you can damage the belt.
Yeah, should have thought of that before doing this method, next time I'll loosen the belt.
Hmmmmm, don't skip teeth, just undo both those grub screws then you are free to turn the rod. Same as how you level the gantry on a 3 V3 SE, there is a Creality video that shows it.
I tried unscrewed the two screw but it's still lock on with the other.