All the other bed leveling videos I've seen seem to only say 'use tooth skipping' but never showed the full process. Thank you for your very helpful video.
Thanks. Check out a first layer though. I carried out the same procedure as you, thought the mesh looked much better, but the first layer over extruded intermittently with under extrusion. So out of frustration I removed the silicon spacers under the bed and installed m4 screws in the corners with springs (think bed slingers) and adjust the bed now manually while printing a first layer. Old school, but it worked a treat. Personally I think the K1 leveling issue at least requires a firmware update. But it’s a reasonable machine for the price.
hey, its just "creality print" in your browser. on your printer, go to network settings and you will see your IP. just type that IP to the URL section of your browser and you will reach it.
I did this method, and oh my God, my levelling is beautiful sat at .154 that's so much better than my last k1 I had to send back to creality due to the bed being wonky and getting failed prints finally I don't have to worry about that and I can do my linear rail mod and fix the issues it's got due to the vibration compensation I'm getting bad ringing and banding within my prints so I'm gonna do the linear rail modifications to see if this fixes the bad about my k1 speedy as iv rooted the k1 aswell so I have full control over the marcos finally 😅
at 6:28 you show the bed leveling data but that looks very different to my creality print interface - or are you using something different? I don't have the numbers or the mesh size - just the graphic.
my print interface is mainsail, i show how to install it here. ruclips.net/video/7CcSahW-cR0/видео.html the video was recorded before creality released the root enabled firmware so you can skip the "update firmware" section and start at 1;48.
if you are having trouble moving the rear screw because it has the stepper attached you can loosen the belt the same way but turn it using the wheel under the screw as shown in this picture with the red arrow. i.ibb.co/tK9Ybh6/screw.jpg alternatively you could adjust the front two screws higher which will make the back lower, just add the same amount of clicks(tooth skips) to each front screw.
This is awesome but what were the first steps that you did prior to the paper and raising? did you just leave the z, x, and y axis in the home position? Or did you do z probe offset at each corner? Thank you!
i ran a bed mesh to work out where the high point was closest to a leadscrew and then moved the bed and nozzle by hand, you could home it if you like but you are going to move everything by hand so it is not really needed. another way to level it is to use silicone spacers or springs and modify the bed mounts with them so you can adjust the screws like most other printers but i did not want to go that route i just wanted it to be closer to level than it was.
The z offset doesn't matter? Yeah I was at a decent offset then I tinkered with it some more and now I'm way out of wack :( like -1.2 front left and 3.0 in rear... I might end up just returning this printer... too much of a hassle but I'm pretty sure it's operator error so I'm going to continue to try. @@DnG-Crafts
@@Craysav no i only adjusted the one screw shown in the video, if the z offset is not right after leveling try and do the "self test" in the menu which will run the printer through the process of leveling, input shaping, z offset etc
Thanks for the great video. Did you manage to get your machine to compensate for the remaining difference? Mine has never compensated in the 6 months I've been trying to troubleshoot and my first layers, and consequently any other layers if it makes it that far have been extremely inconsistent and unusable. I can set the Z offset perfectly in one spot and all other spots will be terrible.
thats how mine was until i leveled the bed to the nozzle. i did do one machine that still refused to play nice after i leveled it and the only way to fix it was to force it to do the initial calibration that is done when you first set the machine up. after that it was ok. another thing to check is the bed warping once heated, if you level it cold and the bed warps bad when its hot it will throw everything out so it might need to be leveled while hot.
@@DnG-Crafts thank you. i've preheated my bed for a whole day and it unfortunately still makes no difference. neither does the calibration. i've managed to do a few prints by manually controlling the first layer z offset, and squishing it until it evens out over a few layers lol
It looks really simple when you're turning the rods to get the click. I'm having a similar bedmesh on my k1 max as the one you had before leveling and I tried this method. Even though I'm loosening the belt, it's really difficult to turn the rods, and most of the tries I did resulted in me just raising the whole bed... I think I got 1 click out of sheer luck 😂 Any additional tips on what I could try to get more clicks?
with the k1 max on the part where you loosen the screws try take the screw out that is closest to the frame of the printer as it will allow more movement when levering the the belt tensioner. i show it in this video at 17;54 ruclips.net/video/_Ob9120QvBU/видео.html
@@DnG-Crafts Legend! Worked like a charm! Went from a 1.2 diff to 0.4 without any difficulty! Best of all I'm not dreading to try it again if needed :). Thank you thank you thank you!
The bed leveling has a range that it can level the bed effectively. Some beds are SO FAR OUT OF the level that the bed leveling can't compensate. This little tweak in the video gets the bed in a better range and therefor the bed leveling can do it's job.
Man, your table is angled and you're touching a single axis. Remove the 4 bolts from the table and replace the 4 cylinders it rests on, printing new ones with the correct height adjustment.
All the other bed leveling videos I've seen seem to only say 'use tooth skipping' but never showed the full process. Thank you for your very helpful video.
Best tutorial for bed leveling I've seen. Thank you.
Thanks. Check out a first layer though. I carried out the same procedure as you, thought the mesh looked much better, but the first layer over extruded intermittently with under extrusion. So out of frustration I removed the silicon spacers under the bed and installed m4 screws in the corners with springs (think bed slingers) and adjust the bed now manually while printing a first layer. Old school, but it worked a treat. Personally I think the K1 leveling issue at least requires a firmware update. But it’s a reasonable machine for the price.
Wich program is this?
.
hey, its just "creality print" in your browser. on your printer, go to network settings and you will see your IP. just type that IP to the URL section of your browser and you will reach it.
how do i get it at the starting level to begin with the paper, when i click home leaves big gap
I did this method, and oh my God, my levelling is beautiful sat at .154 that's so much better than my last k1 I had to send back to creality due to the bed being wonky and getting failed prints finally I don't have to worry about that and I can do my linear rail mod and fix the issues it's got due to the vibration compensation I'm getting bad ringing and banding within my prints so I'm gonna do the linear rail modifications to see if this fixes the bad about my k1 speedy as iv rooted the k1 aswell so I have full control over the marcos finally 😅
at 6:28 you show the bed leveling data but that looks very different to my creality print interface - or are you using something different? I don't have the numbers or the mesh size - just the graphic.
my print interface is mainsail, i show how to install it here.
ruclips.net/video/7CcSahW-cR0/видео.html
the video was recorded before creality released the root enabled firmware so you can skip the "update firmware" section and start at 1;48.
In this video you adjust the front lead screws manually. How to I adjust the rear lead screw? My mesh is high at the back
if you are having trouble moving the rear screw because it has the stepper attached you can loosen the belt the same way but turn it using the wheel under the screw as shown in this picture with the red arrow.
i.ibb.co/tK9Ybh6/screw.jpg
alternatively you could adjust the front two screws higher which will make the back lower, just add the same amount of clicks(tooth skips) to each front screw.
what software do you use at the end?
that is mainsail, it replaces the creality web ui in the printer
docs.mainsail.xyz/
the other option is fluidd but i prefer mainsail
docs.fluidd.xyz/
Where do I find this Bed mesh Screen as do not know where to click for it, Please Help
the visual mesh is found when you goto the printers ip address with a webbrowser.
Do you have some source for inexpensive textured K1 PEI plates?
i get mine from aliexpress
www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-k1-build-plates.html
This is awesome but what were the first steps that you did prior to the paper and raising? did you just leave the z, x, and y axis in the home position? Or did you do z probe offset at each corner? Thank you!
i ran a bed mesh to work out where the high point was closest to a leadscrew and then moved the bed and nozzle by hand, you could home it if you like but you are going to move everything by hand so it is not really needed.
another way to level it is to use silicone spacers or springs and modify the bed mounts with them so you can adjust the screws like most other printers but i did not want to go that route i just wanted it to be closer to level than it was.
The z offset doesn't matter? Yeah I was at a decent offset then I tinkered with it some more and now I'm way out of wack :( like -1.2 front left and 3.0 in rear... I might end up just returning this printer... too much of a hassle but I'm pretty sure it's operator error so I'm going to continue to try. @@DnG-Crafts
Did you adjust your rear screw at all?
@@Craysav no i only adjusted the one screw shown in the video, if the z offset is not right after leveling try and do the "self test" in the menu which will run the printer through the process of leveling, input shaping, z offset etc
Thanks for the great video. Did you manage to get your machine to compensate for the remaining difference? Mine has never compensated in the 6 months I've been trying to troubleshoot and my first layers, and consequently any other layers if it makes it that far have been extremely inconsistent and unusable. I can set the Z offset perfectly in one spot and all other spots will be terrible.
thats how mine was until i leveled the bed to the nozzle.
i did do one machine that still refused to play nice after i leveled it and the only way to fix it was to force it to do the initial calibration that is done when you first set the machine up.
after that it was ok.
another thing to check is the bed warping once heated, if you level it cold and the bed warps bad when its hot it will throw everything out so it might need to be leveled while hot.
@@DnG-Crafts thank you. i've preheated my bed for a whole day and it unfortunately still makes no difference. neither does the calibration. i've managed to do a few prints by manually controlling the first layer z offset, and squishing it until it evens out over a few layers lol
I'm new to the K1 Max.. I've seen this software in other videos but not sure what it is? is that the creality print software?
it is called "mainsail"
docs.mainsail.xyz/
@@DnG-Crafts oh, cool thanks!
It looks really simple when you're turning the rods to get the click. I'm having a similar bedmesh on my k1 max as the one you had before leveling and I tried this method. Even though I'm loosening the belt, it's really difficult to turn the rods, and most of the tries I did resulted in me just raising the whole bed... I think I got 1 click out of sheer luck 😂 Any additional tips on what I could try to get more clicks?
with the k1 max on the part where you loosen the screws try take the screw out that is closest to the frame of the printer as it will allow more movement when levering the the belt tensioner.
i show it in this video at 17;54
ruclips.net/video/_Ob9120QvBU/видео.html
@@DnG-Crafts Legend! Worked like a charm! Went from a 1.2 diff to 0.4 without any difficulty! Best of all I'm not dreading to try it again if needed :). Thank you thank you thank you!
thank you... help me a lot!
Thanks mate
but why auto bed leveling not compensate that?
The bed leveling has a range that it can level the bed effectively. Some beds are SO FAR OUT OF the level that the bed leveling can't compensate. This little tweak in the video gets the bed in a better range and therefor the bed leveling can do it's job.
I thought auto bed leveling would compensate I'm a noob at this.
Man, your table is angled and you're touching a single axis.
Remove the 4 bolts from the table and replace the 4 cylinders it rests on, printing new ones with the correct height adjustment.
Way easier to just buy a spring kit and level on all 4 corners. I reduced mine from 1mm off to .07mm!!