Sir, Your video on fine-tuning the bed of a K series D printer sounds super informative and helpful! I love how you cover various methods for bed adjustment and provide step-by-step instructions for a smooth leveling process. Can't wait to see the transformative impact of these techniques on D printing experience!
I had been having weird bed leveling issues recently and scoured the internet. I didn't have to go the shim route; but thanks to you I looked at the screws on my hotend and they were MORE than loose. K1 max was suppose to print out the box, funny my older printers never has loose hotend screws. Thanks for a good detailed video!
Lol. At first I was like... Wait, how did he get his hands under the bed? I did my shims yesterday. I'd put on what I thought would work and then it would be unleavened in a different way. It was so fun to taking those tiny screws in and out. I ended up with very close to a.2 difference.
Links to the shims, especially the 'wedge' type would be helpful. I am a new user of a K1 and leveled to within a tooth but the shims could make it better. Useful video !
I did the "jump teeth" method first and could get it close, but each tooth translates to a pretty good amount of travel. So far, the shims have worked best for me with a very minimal amount of material and time.
On my K1 Max, I've found it takes remarkably little force to alter the back 2 corners of the bed. In fact, I accidentally pushed mine down quite a bit while doing some testing. I was able to bring it back into alignment with a bit of pushing and pulling.
You can further tune your bed surface’s low spots by strategically applying Kapton (polyamide) tape directly onto the magnetic sheet that your build surface snaps to.
Should my K1 Max be probing the whole bed before every print? Or is there something I've done wrong? Once it gets printing it does an excellent job. Thank you for your videos on the K1
Question: When reinstalling the 2 screws for the fan cover, I had to squeeze it back hard to align it for the screws. Is that normal. This was my first ever removing that cover. Also, I'm getting a 109 error Fan Feedback exception. Someone said it was the heatsink fan? I did successfully print the stock benchy. Thanks.
trying to enable palette2 in klipper on a max but cant find the serial path to the palette plugged into front. usb ls /dev/serial/by-id/* dosnt show the palette any ideas? any Ideas who might know how to get this working.
I have a K1 Max and I for the sake of me don't understand how this machine is leveling and calibrating. I can see the 36 points of calibration in the console and their values and they are pretty good (from -0.20 to +0.14) but when I go to Fluid and see the Bed Mesh it's completely skewed and the value of each point in the bed mesh have nothing to do with the calibration values taken from the console. What the heck ??? And my printings are not good because I have visible line width difference on big pieces that go across the whole bed. Can someone explain this to me please ?
I tried to use the shims but it was unsuccessful for me. I wound up buying a set of springs and wheel nuts for an ender off Amazon and manually leveled the bed and got a better result. I don’t like how you can only shim up 3 points on this bed vs adjusting each corner independently.
With the kind of mesh you are starting with the easiest way and fastest way of unskewing it would be to skip 2 teeth on the left screw and you would be pretty much perfect.
Sir, Your video on fine-tuning the bed of a K series D printer sounds super informative and helpful! I love how you cover various methods for bed adjustment and provide step-by-step instructions for a smooth leveling process. Can't wait to see the transformative impact of these techniques on D printing experience!
Thank You!
One of the best vids I’ve seen on this!
I had been having weird bed leveling issues recently and scoured the internet. I didn't have to go the shim route; but thanks to you I looked at the screws on my hotend and they were MORE than loose. K1 max was suppose to print out the box, funny my older printers never has loose hotend screws. Thanks for a good detailed video!
Damn, this was really helpful!
Thank You, there are many ways, of which I have tried several and this got me the best results so far.
Which slicer required for observing bed level mesh?
Lol. At first I was like... Wait, how did he get his hands under the bed? I did my shims yesterday. I'd put on what I thought would work and then it would be unleavened in a different way. It was so fun to taking those tiny screws in and out. I ended up with very close to a.2 difference.
Links to the shims, especially the 'wedge' type would be helpful. I am a new user of a K1 and leveled to within a tooth but the shims could make it better. Useful video !
I did the "jump teeth" method first and could get it close, but each tooth translates to a pretty good amount of travel. So far, the shims have worked best for me with a very minimal amount of material and time.
On my K1 Max, I've found it takes remarkably little force to alter the back 2 corners of the bed. In fact, I accidentally pushed mine down quite a bit while doing some testing. I was able to bring it back into alignment with a bit of pushing and pulling.
Yes, the rear of the bed is not as stable as I would like, especially on the MAX but so far, I have not run into issues with it.
You can further tune your bed surface’s low spots by strategically applying Kapton (polyamide) tape directly onto the magnetic sheet that your build surface snaps to.
Should my K1 Max be probing the whole bed before every print? Or is there something I've done wrong? Once it gets printing it does an excellent job. Thank you for your videos on the K1
Every time i try to see the bed mesh in the browser it says "this site cant be reached". I try the 4408 and 4409 please help
Question: When reinstalling the 2 screws for the fan cover, I had to squeeze it back hard to align it for the screws. Is that normal. This was my first ever removing that cover. Also, I'm getting a 109 error Fan Feedback exception. Someone said it was the heatsink fan? I did successfully print the stock benchy. Thanks.
The cover can be a little snug but getting an error I would take a close look and make sure a fan wire didn't get pinched somewhere.
Do you have links for both srts of yge bed shim files?
Wedge Shims - www.printables.com/model/692813-sloped-bed-shims-for-creality-k1-k1c-and-k1-max
Regular Shims - www.printables.com/model/681528-bed-shims-fits-creality-k1-and-k1-max
What about printing a wedge shaped spacer side to side to lift one side a little,
Wedge Shims - www.printables.com/model/692813-sloped-bed-shims-for-creality-k1-k1c-and-k1-max
trying to enable palette2 in klipper on a max but cant find the serial path to the palette plugged into front.
usb ls /dev/serial/by-id/*
dosnt show the palette any ideas?
any Ideas who might know how to get this working.
Unfortunately, that is out of my scope of knowledge, I'm still doing this as a farmer with duct tape, a hammer and can of WD-40....
Hello, which program is this for the bed mesh?
I have a K1 Max and I for the sake of me don't understand how this machine is leveling and calibrating. I can see the 36 points of calibration in the console and their values and they are pretty good (from -0.20 to +0.14) but when I go to Fluid and see the Bed Mesh it's completely skewed and the value of each point in the bed mesh have nothing to do with the calibration values taken from the console. What the heck ??? And my printings are not good because I have visible line width difference on big pieces that go across the whole bed. Can someone explain this to me please ?
Can you share the link for the wedge shaped shims you used?
Wedge Shims - www.printables.com/model/692813-sloped-bed-shims-for-creality-k1-k1c-and-k1-max
I tried to use the shims but it was unsuccessful for me. I wound up buying a set of springs and wheel nuts for an ender off Amazon and manually leveled the bed and got a better result. I don’t like how you can only shim up 3 points on this bed vs adjusting each corner independently.
Can you print the shims in pla or does it have to be carbon fiber?
Also where did you find the wedge shaped shims?
I wouldn't use PLA myself as the glass transition temperature of PLA is too close to the temps seen inside the chamber of the K1's
www.printables.com/model/692813-sloped-bed-shims-for-creality-k1-k1c-and-k1-max
Thanks Scott I really appreciate it
Great video! Can you share the links for the spacers?
Wedge Shims - www.printables.com/model/692813-sloped-bed-shims-for-creality-k1-k1c-and-k1-max
Regular Shims - www.printables.com/model/681528-bed-shims-fits-creality-k1-and-k1-max
With the kind of mesh you are starting with the easiest way and fastest way of unskewing it would be to skip 2 teeth on the left screw and you would be pretty much perfect.
The same adage: 3d printing to help your 3d printer do more 3d printing
Root machine, void what little warranty creality provides. Perhaps you should mention that at the start.
im not going to root my printer
No need to if you are happy with the way it prints. I have 2 rooted and 2 that run as they came from Creality.