⚠ IMPORTANT ⚠ Please note that between the two methods, method one is safer and the proper way to do this. Skipping the teeth on the belt without releasing tension first does run the risk of damage to the printer's belt. There is also the argument that method two may be safer and more preferable for users who are concerned with working near the electronics and power of the printer. While my goal is to provide accurate and useful information in my videos, it is ultimately the responsibility of each user to decide what best fits them.
You are a Legend, from all the Channels i subscribed to, your's is simply the best. Plus i LOVE that there's finally is a youtuber, who dosent need a 45sec. Intro and another 6min.32s to get to the point - you jump straight in from what the title of the video says. Plus the Videoquality, Camera-Angle, your voice and the way you explain stuff - pure Gold. Huge fan here 🤗 Edit: Honestly, your way of making a video should be the Goldstandard for monetized channels and i really hope you get theere superfast. This is EXACTLY the Video i needed!
Method 2 got me .2 - Bed Mesh works so much better now. With it being rooted and doing adaptive mesh...don't really feel need to spend money going further. Already did that with a Flowtech hotend and extra nozzles. Fixed overheating camera issue with a 4010 blower style fan. K1C now making parts for an Enclosed / Heated Chamber Mercury One Hydra.
I've been printing with ~1.2mm discrepancy for almost a year now and in 85% cases it works for me. I am considering doing this fix almost from day one, but "don't touch it if it works" rule stil stands... Anyway, thanks for a very clear explanation of methods and for the video.
Out of the two methods, it's really hard to decide. Method one requires a lot of added effort, and you run the risk of touching some of the electronics while leveling. Method two is a little dirtier; if this method is used frequently, it can be stressful for the belt. However, method two is also safer, as you can't touch any of the electronics at the bottom of the printer while it's running.
Nice video and explanation. I'm trying it now, but the mesh keeps getting a slope. Do you need to rotate both rods or just one is enough ? Thank you. I'm using the first method. K1C
It's hard to say without seeing an image of the mesh. Generally when the bed is sloping forward you would raise or lower both front corners of the bed.
@@zerodotcmd Thank you for the reply. After a while I started to understand how everything worked and I was able to reach 0.3 range. I couldn't lower that, no mater how hard I tried. I'm happy because I did a test print and it came out great. Thank you
With my K1 Max, I had to add rubber to the four screws to adjust them and use the screws_tilt_adjust command. I also added a glass bed, which helped me achieve a well-leveled print surface. One curious thing is that the Klipper script forces the mesh level to use Lagrange interpolation. I've tried setting it to bicubic, but for some reason, it doesn't let me.
Which firmware are you currently using? I've had this same issue with Creality and Creality Help, which simply sits on top of Creality's modified Klipper. That being said, Creality really butchered the version of Klipper that they are using. The SimpleAF firmware has had no issues running bicubic for me.
@GerardoNQ As of now, it's not possible to use SimpleAF with the stock sensors/probe. There are a few people working on making this possible, but there's no guarantee on a timeline for this.
The second method, how do you stop the other screws from turning? I thought it was working but then noticed the other one turned as I turned the other.
My biggest issues with my K1 max and I was printing polycarbonate at 110° bed and had an insulated chamber up to 55°. Was pretty close to .2 across And I did my calibrations at the tennis I would be printing at… however, I was still consistently experiencing first layer inconsistencies and ended up just selling my printer. Now using the Qidi plus 4 and have never once had a first layer or warping issue. Which is impressive because my issues with the k1 max were constant. For context I was printing short, wide, and long trays that are nearly the size of the bed. A challenging type of shape prone to warping.
Do you know if the same mechanisms exist with the K2 plus? I am looking for confirmation of if I would experience my aforementioned issues on the k2 plus if I got one
I share your experience with the K1 series machines. I have a few FlashForge 5M Pro printers and have never had anything but perfect first layers. At this point, it's unacceptable that Creality releases printers with this problem. I'm not sure about the K2, to be honest. For the time being, I am avoiding it. I expect it to be released with several quality control issues.
@@zerodotcmd im low key hoping you get your hands on one and share feedback on your channel cause it’s hard to find honest reviews and assessments on some of These machines with all these RUclipsrs pushing their affiliate links.
I've did the belt loosing method, the teeth skipping method (by hand! No pliers! Hard as f...), and finally, I've printed a set of various spacers from 0,1 to 0,5mm and put it where the bed mounts to the screws. After only a few tries, I've been able to get the bed a lot less unleveled. Then I said F it and put the good old springs from my Ender 3 😅
Just and FYI for anybody who needs it. After using the shims from MakeitNeedit, and rooting the machine. My K1 Max prints close to flawlessly!! the bed still isn't perfect, it has a range of 0.07 at 50c and a huge 0.3 range at 100c. I print a lot in ABS and since rooting and installing KAMP it works well and I haven't had a single failure. Hope it helps
You are a great RUclipsr presenter, Your videos are super instructional and easy to watch. You keep my attention. My only problem with the pliers method is that by doing this you damage your belt, not only wear the teeth but will make it weaker and screeched as well. I just do not like that.
I agree. Not a huge fan of the pliers method. However, I know people will find and do it regardless. I'll be pinning a comment as a word of caution for users.
Hey, great video! Check out my method as well, I have a video on my channel. Basically there are 3 injection molded pieces that are all level with each other. If you lower the bed all the way down right onto the plastic pieces then you can unscrew the leadscrew nut and move the axis. This method is much easier than any of the teeth skipping methods, and you don't need to actually take anything off of the machine in order to do it. Is completely unintrusive!
Manufacturer's not just Creality need to stop selling 3D printers with issues. Most would be willing to pay a bit more for a 3D printer that works out the box without things like nozzle's falling out, poor feeding issues, ect
Method one is safe. Method two can be risky for sure. This is why I call it the "dirty" method. I have a habit of assuming that the viewers have a basic level of understand certain things they may not. I will be pinning a comment as a warning. Although one could argue its also not safe to tell new users to mess around in the bottom near the electronics. I have to have a certain level of trust in the end user when putting out information.
Why don't you send the printer back to where you got it from and get a refund? If I buy a washing machine and have to freaking calibrate it by fiddling around on RUclips, the thing is going back.
3D printer is not an appliance... yet. Maybe in 5-10 years it will be. For now it's a tool, CNC machine, you are expected to know it inside out anyway.
⚠ IMPORTANT ⚠ Please note that between the two methods, method one is safer and the proper way to do this. Skipping the teeth on the belt without releasing tension first does run the risk of damage to the printer's belt. There is also the argument that method two may be safer and more preferable for users who are concerned with working near the electronics and power of the printer. While my goal is to provide accurate and useful information in my videos, it is ultimately the responsibility of each user to decide what best fits them.
You are a Legend, from all the Channels i subscribed to, your's is simply the best. Plus i LOVE that there's finally is a youtuber, who dosent need a 45sec. Intro and another 6min.32s to get to the point - you jump straight in from what the title of the video says. Plus the Videoquality, Camera-Angle, your voice and the way you explain stuff - pure Gold. Huge fan here 🤗
Edit: Honestly, your way of making a video should be the Goldstandard for monetized channels and i really hope you get theere superfast.
This is EXACTLY the Video i needed!
Thanks for the feedback! I'm glad you like the videos and format. It's good to know I'm on the right track 😊
@@zerodotcmd Brother you are in the super right track !!! Your channel will blow very quickly believe me !!!
Method 2 got me .2 - Bed Mesh works so much better now. With it being rooted and doing adaptive mesh...don't really feel need to spend money going further. Already did that with a Flowtech hotend and extra nozzles. Fixed overheating camera issue with a 4010 blower style fan.
K1C now making parts for an Enclosed / Heated Chamber Mercury One Hydra.
Thank you! Ive been looking for a quick and dirty explanation of the tooth skipping method.
You're welcome! Glad you found this helpful!
I've been printing with ~1.2mm discrepancy for almost a year now and in 85% cases it works for me. I am considering doing this fix almost from day one, but "don't touch it if it works" rule stil stands... Anyway, thanks for a very clear explanation of methods and for the video.
That's true. Don't mess with what's working for you unless its really bothers you.
how dont you have 1k subs? you make high quality videos
Hopefully soon. This is a newer channel. ☺️
Hey Zero, can u explain how properly tuning the belts?
Soon 😉
Great video, so out of the 2 methods you have demonstrated, which would you rather use and recommend the most please?
Out of the two methods, it's really hard to decide. Method one requires a lot of added effort, and you run the risk of touching some of the electronics while leveling. Method two is a little dirtier; if this method is used frequently, it can be stressful for the belt. However, method two is also safer, as you can't touch any of the electronics at the bottom of the printer while it's running.
I would most likely recommend method two for newer users as it is safer for the machine and its electronics.
@@zerodotcmd awesome, thanks will try it out today (method 2)
If my belt snaps i know where you live 😂
Nice video and explanation. I'm trying it now, but the mesh keeps getting a slope. Do you need to rotate both rods or just one is enough ? Thank you. I'm using the first method. K1C
It's hard to say without seeing an image of the mesh. Generally when the bed is sloping forward you would raise or lower both front corners of the bed.
@@zerodotcmd Thank you for the reply. After a while I started to understand how everything worked and I was able to reach 0.3 range. I couldn't lower that, no mater how hard I tried. I'm happy because I did a test print and it came out great. Thank you
With my K1 Max, I had to add rubber to the four screws to adjust them and use the screws_tilt_adjust command. I also added a glass bed, which helped me achieve a well-leveled print surface. One curious thing is that the Klipper script forces the mesh level to use Lagrange interpolation. I've tried setting it to bicubic, but for some reason, it doesn't let me.
Which firmware are you currently using? I've had this same issue with Creality and Creality Help, which simply sits on top of Creality's modified Klipper. That being said, Creality really butchered the version of Klipper that they are using. The SimpleAF firmware has had no issues running bicubic for me.
@@zerodotcmd yes i am using the klipper form creality . can i use simple af with the stock sensor?
@GerardoNQ As of now, it's not possible to use SimpleAF with the stock sensors/probe. There are a few people working on making this possible, but there's no guarantee on a timeline for this.
@@zerodotcmd Alright, I'm going to try modifying the Python script to see if I can unlock that feature. your video are great bro , thanks.
Is this video an alternative to adding the springs as shown in the bed warping video?
No this video is different. This is about leveling the Z Screw alignment. it all works hand in hand.
The second method, how do you stop the other screws from turning? I thought it was working but then noticed the other one turned as I turned the other.
Make sure the printer is on when attempting method two. this makes sure the motors are engaged and should stop the belt from freely moving.
In combination with some insulation tape on the heatbed you can get the K1 fairly dialed in.
Yes this is definitely an option that several users have done. I personally prefer the Glass Sub Bed mod.
ruclips.net/video/6vU0u630IjU/видео.html
So you can map the bed while the printer is sideways right?
Absolutely ☺️ You can even print with it on its side, although admittedly not the best option.
My biggest issues with my K1 max and I was printing polycarbonate at 110° bed and had an insulated chamber up to 55°. Was pretty close to .2 across And I did my calibrations at the tennis I would be printing at… however, I was still consistently experiencing first layer inconsistencies and ended up just selling my printer. Now using the Qidi plus 4 and have never once had a first layer or warping issue. Which is impressive because my issues with the k1 max were constant. For context I was printing short, wide, and long trays that are nearly the size of the bed. A challenging type of shape prone to warping.
Do you know if the same mechanisms exist with the K2 plus?
I am looking for confirmation of if I would experience my aforementioned issues on the k2 plus if I got one
I share your experience with the K1 series machines. I have a few FlashForge 5M Pro printers and have never had anything but perfect first layers. At this point, it's unacceptable that Creality releases printers with this problem. I'm not sure about the K2, to be honest. For the time being, I am avoiding it. I expect it to be released with several quality control issues.
i'm manually screw tune w springs on 100C, and use foil tape on front and back to compensate hill in center(sorry foe my english)
Same here. Completely different bed mesh every print. Did you know @zerodotcmd made a glass sub-bed mod to help with this?
@@zerodotcmd im low key hoping you get your hands on one and share feedback on your channel cause it’s hard to find honest reviews and assessments on some of These machines with all these RUclipsrs pushing their affiliate links.
I've did the belt loosing method, the teeth skipping method (by hand! No pliers! Hard as f...), and finally, I've printed a set of various spacers from 0,1 to 0,5mm and put it where the bed mounts to the screws. After only a few tries, I've been able to get the bed a lot less unleveled.
Then I said F it and put the good old springs from my Ender 3 😅
Just and FYI for anybody who needs it. After using the shims from MakeitNeedit, and rooting the machine. My K1 Max prints close to flawlessly!! the bed still isn't perfect, it has a range of 0.07 at 50c and a huge 0.3 range at 100c. I print a lot in ABS and since rooting and installing KAMP it works well and I haven't had a single failure. Hope it helps
Good info, spacers are always a decent option to further level the bed.
What's the tooth / raise proportion?
Шаг винта 8мм. Шкив 20 зубьев. 8/20=0.4мм один зуб.
I haven't measured anything but this looks correct to me.
Top demais
You are a great RUclipsr presenter, Your videos are super instructional and easy to watch. You keep my attention. My only problem with the pliers method is that by doing this you damage your belt, not only wear the teeth but will make it weaker and screeched as well. I just do not like that.
I agree. Not a huge fan of the pliers method. However, I know people will find and do it regardless. I'll be pinning a comment as a word of caution for users.
Doing all this will build muscle mass 😮
Oh yeah.😅 It's not the easiest exercise.
@@zerodotcmd 100 Kg phew 😌😅
🥳
🥳indeed. 😊
Hey, great video! Check out my method as well, I have a video on my channel. Basically there are 3 injection molded pieces that are all level with each other. If you lower the bed all the way down right onto the plastic pieces then you can unscrew the leadscrew nut and move the axis. This method is much easier than any of the teeth skipping methods, and you don't need to actually take anything off of the machine in order to do it. Is completely unintrusive!
Manufacturer's not just Creality need to stop selling 3D printers with issues. Most would be willing to pay a bit more for a 3D printer that works out the box without things like nozzle's falling out, poor feeding issues, ect
This is all true. But these companies won't change until the community starts becoming more vocal.
i really dont think you should be telling noobs to skip teeth on a belt, but what do i know? been there done that, wont do that again, lol!
Method one is safe. Method two can be risky for sure. This is why I call it the "dirty" method. I have a habit of assuming that the viewers have a basic level of understand certain things they may not. I will be pinning a comment as a warning. Although one could argue its also not safe to tell new users to mess around in the bottom near the electronics. I have to have a certain level of trust in the end user when putting out information.
Why don't you send the printer back to where you got it from and get a refund? If I buy a washing machine and have to freaking calibrate it by fiddling around on RUclips, the thing is going back.
You surely didn't bought a K1, right? 😏
If I sent them back then I couldn't tell people how to fix them 😉
3D printer is not an appliance... yet. Maybe in 5-10 years it will be. For now it's a tool, CNC machine, you are expected to know it inside out anyway.