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I just got 6.0 and when i slice and start print on my ender 3 v3 KE it starts a random print from the print files on the printer and not the file i sliced and idk why

It now 6.0.2 They work fast LOL

where can you get a replacement gear from mine broke in half and any cubic just sent me the drive wheel twice which is the wrong part

As long as Creality will keep trying to reinvent the wheel when it comes to firmware and their slicers it will look like this. Stop trying to do it, it does not work, look how they did the pin connections for their printers on the Klipper they used? Quite atrocious.

you see... Another scam by these 3D printer companies to gauge to consumers. non-transparency, shameful.

Now with the current situation with Bambi would you say I get the kobra 3 combo or the a1 combo?

Hello Mate, i recently purchased a new hotend , i changed it just like you did it and when i turn on the printer and try to print, it says Error 10122. Do you know any solution for that error beyond the QR that anycubic provides?

Now my slicer crashes every time I press send print. cool new update

Installed cp6 and the resulting files are causing error2060 on the k1c. Go back to v5.1 and everything is fine.

what is the difference between contour and everywhere of scarf joint?

Thank you! Just what i needed, heating up the cleaner. So simple, so smart, so effective! Thanks! :)

I cannot even figure out how to log into 6.0!!!???? I just grabbed my 6th K series, in this case the K2 Plus, and I cannot even log into 6.0??? They got rid of the log in option on the top right corner...WTF??

YOU JUST SAVED MY CLOGGED HEAD <3 TNX

Love the video. Good job man!

Nice design. I'm pringting the "poop chute slide right (correct) stl and had to rotate the model clockwise 7 degrees for it to fit on build plate for slicing.

Is the little red thing on top a piece of filament or is that something i was supposed to keep? Im a little worried now becaause i took my old one out last night and thought that was my red filament stuck in it at the top and just tossed it. Now for some reason i cant get the hotend to stay in the print head out without falling out the bottom no matter what i do :(

PLA can't print as fast as ABS. Try to print that fast with ABS at like 270C nozzle temp.

I think the Kobra 3 Max might sell. If they can make a 430mm x430mm Max printer that even works kind of well they'll sell a bunch of them because Bambu is not trying to compete in the inexpensive large format category.

The point is not whether it's good it's whether its as good as a Bambu printer!

Can you reinstall the helper script after the update?

Did you have any issues with this nozzle bursting eventually? Like many of the original non-glued ones did?

Why has nobody done a FDM Assessment Protocol on a K2?

My issue is it takes sooooo long to calibrate my K1 Max to get a nice first layer ... the updates always reset my calibration and this is still an issue with this version 😢

Hello, listen, I also have an artillery sw-x4 pro, today I assembled it and when I homing, it crashes into the pad, it doesn't even do homing, where could the problem be?

I have the K1 SE and can not unclog it. It is not making any noises. Prints like something is coming out but nothing is. Can you help!

For your next project you may want to first design the original object your product is going to attach to. You already have taken all the measurements, with your 3D design skills, it won't be too long to have a rudimentary model of the host object. This would shave off 2 or 3 of your first prototypes.

At first my k1 Max would not print the benchie whatsoever and then I switched to the factory bed and used glue and glow in the dark filament PLA Prince better than the hyper PLA.

Because I had to change printer.cfg for new motors and linear rail I don't like doing firmware factory reset because it won't zero until I reupload my changes. Startup self-check makes a lot bad noises.

You are very good at making such videos... But please! ... activate windows! (echo) ... Good day to You, Sir. :)

First, I have a question since you purchased the K2 Plus Combo, where did you put your K1 Max, or you sold it?

I say... print at 230-235c and wash that plate between prints so it actually sticks on that first layer 🙂

you dont print first layer at 40k/600mm, if your going to test speed, do first layer at stock speed and then ramp it to max. when they do speed benchys, the first layer surface area of the benchy isnt very big, so they can get away with doing max speed for first layer.

Did you just realize that? There is really no 3d printer that can actually to the advertised flow. Its just marketing hype.

Your first layer isn't supposed to be that fast.

This is why I don't trust creality that much. My experience with them was with a 2020 ender 3 with an EXTREMELY warped bed. bought it new, and the printer was basically useless until the point I figured it out and had to install a CR Touch for auto leveling myself. now that I see these lies from creality, I don't think I will buy anything from them until I see them improve. at this point, i'm very sure that it is a lot more worth the money to buy an X1C rather than a K2 Plus.

how long did that boaty take

i changed my hotend and now im getting an error telling my extruder heating error detected and am at just a complete loss

hello, thanks for this 👍 I have a K1 max and can't find the bed mesh... I use Crality Print 6.0 and I don't understand why it doesn't work... Do you have any idea? Thanks Laurent to France

Cranked up to 125% ... it does this sometimes but not every time. For petg the secret sauce is in the profile.

Big help! Thank you so much!

what temperate are you printing at? to get maximum flow you need to print at the filaments highest recommended temp, maybe higher, and considering they are a hardened steel nozzle tip i would probably bump that up 10c, 240-250c at those speeds would likely be fine as at 600mm/s the filament isnt going to be in the nozzle long enough to actually reach that temp

The motor resistance error could be that the motor is overheating. As the motor heats up the resistance of the windings on the motor will change, and it’s possible the controller is measuring that for protection.

Genuinely I enjoy this content as you don’t have unnecessary graphics, music or unnecessary advice just as I like it. Thorough analysis and explanation without unnecessary words. You got yourself another subscriber

Gdybym kupił tą drukarkę, to byłbym wściekły. To kolejne gówno od Creality. Swoją K1C już ogłaszam na aukcji za 50% ceny. Kupuję kolejne Bambu...

I get it every one has a company that they like best but stop coming on here and giving bad reviews I have a print farm with kobra 3 combo and bambu A1 combo they are both good machines with similar quality printing as well as the creality K2 all of these machines work similar

The corner that lifts ... it could be finger oil on the buildplate. Fix that by wiping the plate with an alcohol cloth before printing.

I keep having this same problem with PETG. I’ve played one section a few times. I’m not sure I fully understand. Are you saying that this is caused by the flow of the filament? Maybe I need to sleep my print down?

Thank you

Have u ran the ender 3v3 on quiet mode?is so dose sound drastically change?im thinking about buying one but concerend about sound idc about speed

Thanks Bro🎉🎉