Wes, you'll get a kick out of this. My dad built our house in the mid 50s. He designed most of it, and it was a fairly modern style. He built the cabinets for the home, and our kitchen was and the master batch cabinets were done in this fashion. He called it "Silver Fox" technique. This brought back SO many memories of growing up in that house. Thank you for re-discovering it.
Great story....thanks !! Because of this video I AM the one learning about all these different techniques and unique finishes that I didn't know about. Glad you enjoyed it.
IN '92 I BOUGHT MY ALL-TIME BEST CONGAS FROM LP CALLED GIOVANNI GALAXY. I FOUND A VIDEO ON HOW THEY WERE FINISHED AND THIS ONE OF YOURS IS THE CLOSEST. MANY THANKS AS THIS TECHNIQUE IS VERY NEW!!
Neat! Questions: * What type of paint did you use? * How did you seal the paint? * What did you use for your glazing? * What did you do the top coat? Neat process
OK! Here is my update from using Sherwin-Williams Sherwood Kem Aqua Plus Clear WB. Sprayed two coats of Behr satin enamel paint on a large wine hutch w/ built in hickory wine rack (that was hit with lacquer) Flawless. Turned out great! Laid on easy, melted into each coat well, no bubbling or peel of the paint. I did a few test pieces on various woods and here are the results: Oil based stain on maple ply: Two coats, no sanding between (30 minutes apart) no issues. I did place a third just to see and without sanding I did get some micro bumps in various spots. I wouldn't do 3 again on oil based stain. Clear maple: No issues Maple with oil based stain: No issues Unsanded select pine: No issues, not even grain raise. Walnut: No issues, though it was pretty dull. I would opt for urethane or oil top coat on this for sure. OVERALL: Definitely like the product and will use again for pretty everything, unless it's a walnut or natural wood requiring a pop finish. I'm going to talk to the techs at Sherwin-Williams and look into a tint to help with the "dull" look on natural woods. Hope this is helpful for all!
This is such a nice technique... I have done this technique a year ago but a simpler version. I found out by happy accident.. I got the brand "Flexa" color "Dark steel".. Its actaully a wall paint.. I simply sanded the wood with 80 grid only and painted it 2 times.. After the paint dried i stained it with a very dark gray, almost black just 1 time and sealed it with a matt varnish. It gave me almost the same effect, just not as clear. It was a happy accident.. I like the more subtile effect because the silver woodgrains are different everytime you look at it from another angle.. From very bright to almost just as dark as the staining itself.. Depends on daytime and lighting in my house in the evening. Its a very nice effect specially if you use wood that still has its bark on it. But leave the bark allone and have its natural color. It did nothing to it and it fits so well... so i desided to make accents in the house with this effect like hide heating pipes that come from the sealing that go thru the floor under my house and hid Hue led strips behind the bark. Also made a rectangular casing tube along the sealing with spots i them.. Wish i could post pictures in this comment.. Atm im working on a 2meter cabinet for under my TV with oak and its bark on it with the same effect.. Im loving it because it has this mix of nature and industial at the same time but not to much in your face.. very subtile.. yet still not to dark.. Great video btw love this effect aswell 🥰
Later this year I will be building a guitar out of ash, and was looking for some tips on how to do this kind of finish. This video was really helpful, thanks for sharing!
1st time here; very cool Wes! Very cool. I was researching a method of staining in black. A more contemporary look for a Bakers rack I am building out of 1" rounded 1/8" aluminum. TIG welded. The wood I chose more out of economics for my sister-in-law, select 3/4 pine from HD which is lovely and clean. I burned a Mapel 2" slab for a job and used an epoxy clear bar top and it came out almost 3-dimensional, totally cool. Can't burn 3/4" anything, so wanted to try black stain. I would of got oak but didn't know. I will be learning more in the weeks to come from "Woodworking with Wes" good times
Been doing this for years on repurposed furniture getting it wet will naturally raise the grain as well then stain it or paint it then glaze and sand clear coat. I can match floors or any color paint to use as a base color. Burning it will also reduce the softer part of the grain and combined makes it feel like it looks.
I tried this style on my electric guitar. Wet the grain with water based aniline dye, seal with sanding sealer then sand and clear coat. Looks similar to this video, but in my case green and black. But I might try this on my next build.
Thanks for doing the cerusing videos. You’ve inspired me to finally tried it out. But I’ve run into a problem. When I go to sand after the 2nd color (glaze mix), it stays milky on the dark color. I’m not sure what I did wrong. I used exterior acrylic on 1st color (2 dark coats) and mixed glaze with white interior acrylic. The glaze didn’t wipe off very easily as it dried quite quickly. I mixed it about 3 parts glaze to 1 part paint. I thought that would be ok but when I sanded, it stayed that way. I even sanded down to bare wood in a few spots. I may not have let the 1st or 2nd color dry enough or both. It was over 24 hours drying time. Or perhaps I mixed the glaze wrong. Next time, I may try a clear coat between colors to see it that goes better. I’m going to just go with what I’ve got rather than start over as it still looks ok. It just doesn’t have the sharp contrast I was going for.
Hi...different products will give different results, always. A clear sealer coat between paint and glaze might solve the problem. Give that a test try. Thanks, Wes
Cerused or limed finishes were big back in the 1950s and early 1960s. There is nothing new about this technique. Still, good to see videos on it. Thanks.
It’s a beautiful technique and you shared it well. Let me tell you, though, how my heart sank to learn the wood has to be painted first. I just spent 3 days stripping and sanding the paint off my wood stair treads! Sob!
Yes...I feel your pain but just think you will end up with a better job in the end. Hard work always has a benefit. Good luck. Thanks for watching. Wes
This technique works extremely well with soft wood (Douglass Fer) I make outdoor seating benches I prime the stock first after dried I take that wire brush holding it at a 45* start to brush the wood vigorous, that's it Clean then paint One or Two tones One tone, grains pop very nice It also feels good to the touch
@@feb0885 Hey check out the video where I go more in depth as to how I get this look and the products I used. Thanks. ruclips.net/video/LdmsLbqGA1c/видео.html 9 ▼
@@melving2564 thanks for the comments Are you asking, do I use stain, Yes stain give a nice appeal to the sense Paint give more of an textured effect, you see & feel the uneven grain under the paint
Guitar makers have been doing this finish for about 10 years with ash, mahogany, and other woods with strong grains with open pores. We call it "dog hair" finishes, because it recalls the varied patterns of dog breeds. We don't just use black and white - we use red, green, blue, silver, and yellow, too.
Thank you so so much for showing this process. I'm from Manchester but am living and working in Dhaka, Bangladesh currently. I am getting some furniture made using Indian Gurjan/Balsam (Dipterocarpus turbinatus) commonly referred to as a 'metal wood' because it's quite durable and hard and furniture made from it lasts generations. Do you have any experience working with SE Asian hard woods and staining it this way? Thanks a lot mate
I did this on treads on a circular staircase. Will a lacquer be a durable enough finish? I don’t want my great work to get beat up too soon. I think a couple coats of lacquer might suffice.
Brett...I don't think lacquer would be a durable enough finish for treads on a staircase. I suggest checking with a hardwood floor supplier for a more durable finish to protect your wood. Thanks for watching. Wes
PLEASE HELP 🙏 Hi Wes, thank you for your videos. I tracked down ML Campbell Vinyl primer tinted black. They gave me a white Glaze called " Amazing glaze". I tried this method yesterday but failed. Anytime I glazed it took the black off and showed bare wood. I have 2 questions. 1) how long do you wait for the first coat of Vinyl primer to dry before you glaze it? 2) What kind of MLC glaze do you use. Amazing glaze or Woodsong II? I sooo appreciate your reply as this is a paid job for me 🙏 I am working with Oak for a wood bed kit on a custom 1964 Chevy truck. Thank you for all your hard work showing us new woodworking skills.
Hi...your initial coat of ML Campbell primer needs to be completely dry and soft sanded to make it smooth. You possibly might need a second coat of your base layer. Again, waiting for that to dry completely. The glaze I used was ML Campbell furniture glaze. Be sure to try a sample piece. BTW, the ML Campbell primer I used was a primer/sealer if yours' is not, try a sealer coat between your tinted primer and glaze. That should solve your problem and then be sure to use a good, heavy exterior top coat on the pickup bed. Thanks, Wes
So the way you demonstrated the spray technique was different to your explanation. In the video demonstration, you showed the base colours being sprayed, then you showed the glaze colour going on top of that and wiping it down. In your explanation, you stated that you sprayed on the base colour, 'sealed it' (?), then applied your glaze coat, sanded that with a sponge sandpaper, then topcoated it. Is that correct? Very cool look!! I like it! I guess that this wouldn't work with pine? Not as grainy as the hardwoods.
I had the same question that you asked. I’ve been doing projects with pine, and the most valuable thing I learned that drastically improved the finishes is using pre stain conditioner (oil base), and the explanation I read says it makes the grain stand up/ or open up. It really made a difference, so I’m going to try it with the new technique. I saw another guy do that process on pine 2x4’s and it looked awesome. I won’t use sealer until the end.
@@patrickdunn8918 When I was installing oak hardwood treads on my stairs they needed to be stained first to match the existing hardwood floors, and we were told by the wood provider to wet each stair tread beforehand to raise the grain of the wood, then sand and repeat until the grain doesn't raise anymore. Great advice and saved a lot of frustration through what could have been a really traumatic experience.
you should try mono coat, you put the pre colour on first and the oil on 2nd the oil has a hardener that you add to it, its a very durable finish used for floors but you can use it on any projects
Hi Paul...what a great idea! We appreciate this and i would love to do a video using the method you suggest. I am not familiar with the process...could you please explain in more detail as to what I would have to do to end up with the cerusing look? I am excited to give this a try and would love to give you a shout out on the video if you don't mind. If so, let us know where you are from and anything you would like us to mention with your woodworking skill level. Thank you.
@@WoodworkingWithWes ruclips.net/video/YqAg8iD2aqU/видео.html I just found this sort video on RUclips that shows the process, their is plenty of different colours you can't combine to get different finishes, their is also a ageing, smoke and fumed products they do to name just a few, in all honesty its the best stuff I come across in a long time
You said you seal it on the black one, so the step is, spray the black paint, sealer, apply the white glaze and wipe the gaze. last one is top coat. Is it correct...?
Hi...this process is explained in greater detail on our 2nd video. This link will take you directly to it: Thank you ruclips.net/video/LdmsLbqGA1c/видео.html
Hello Wes, I have a table that is veneer covered but with the same texture, the color is deep brown, you think I could change the color of it, it is 11 years old and has some chips but very miner, could you advise me on how I could may change the color and modernize it, I wanted it in a white-sh color maybe and not so brown Thx
Veneer is not as easily done as solid wood, however, if you want to proceed with the cerusing process, we have videos with many color combinations. Thanks for watching. Wes
I had some old kilz laying around and got some glaze and it worked great. I didn't have much of the paint and had to get different paint and when I added glaze the paint smeared everywhere. What kind of paint do I need to keep it from smearing?
Your color coat, white or other color, to be sealed before applying the glaze. Check our latest video for help. ruclips.net/video/kZDk0CBRS3I/видео.html Hope this helps, thanks for watching, Wes
Excellent video and a true craftsman. This video is so well done. But I just wanted to say. The two colors of finish both of which are beautiful btw,.. would be better defined if you taped the same one piece board down the center but the same grain and sealed on one buried level just to showcase the offset of the effect of the offset of finishes but better recognized when it's viewed on the same grain profile...? If that came out correctly. All thumbs up.
Hi...some people are having success with hardwood floors. Make a test piece to make sure you get your desired look first. Good luck and thanks for watching. Wes
Hi sir.. nice video.. i would like to get beige color on oak wood with white grain!.. so i have to stain with beige.. then apply white stain on top and then buff and seal??? Can you let me get an idea? Thanks!
Yes...beige color primer sealer and then a white glaze will give you the effect you are looking for. Please watch this video to help in obtaining your products. Thank you. Wes
I am sorry you have lost me. It is a paint and glaze finish but check out a ceruse video we will be putting up this Sunday that might help answer this question. Thanks, Wes
Stephen...We have been doing research and have recently posted a video with alternative products as well as another one coming up this weekend. Hope this will help. Thanks, Wes
When I tested this finish on a piece of maple, the results were very unsatisfactory. You need to have a wood that has a more distinct grain pattern such as oak or ash. Hope this helps, thank you for watching.
I like the black on top of the white, but I don't like the white on top of the black. I could be the the wood grain on the darker one that made it look strange to me, almost like an animal print, but that's just not my style preference. They look beautiful and I love the idea.
Hi Wes love your videos I know nothing about wood but learning all the time with your videos,I have a dark mahogany table that my mother was throwing away but would love to bring it back to life with that black/white glaze Would I be able to do this on dark mahogany using your method white grain with Black Finnish… 😘
Hi...I have done a video on the channel showing 11 different kinds of wood finishing with cerusing method. Also check out my latest find on what I consider the best products available: ruclips.net/video/kZDk0CBRS3I/видео.html Thanks for watching, Wes
@@WoodworkingWithWes So I tried it, and it just didn't come out right. Lots of curves to deal with. However I have spare pieces I can work on for future projects
@@abitofapickle6255 Sorry that didn't work out for you. I have added another video today with further explanation and product suggestions with this technique. Thank you! ruclips.net/video/LdmsLbqGA1c/видео.html
Thank you for bringing that to my attention...I will put it in the description. The paint is the same as my video with the 3 cabinet finishes I posted. It is a tinted primer sealer from M.L. Campbell. I used a white/black oil based glaze and final step is a clear top coat of lacquer. I appreciate your visit.
@@biglav6048 I really don't have experience in using water based finishes. I stick with the products that I know and have served me well. I have heard that one of the drawbacks of water based is a longer drying time but thats about all I know. Thank you...if you try and have good results let me know, I am always interested. Thanks.
Hi...we have found two great products to use with the cerusing method that you might consider. Watch our latest video:ruclips.net/video/kZDk0CBRS3I/видео.html Thanks for watching, Wes
Could you use wood dye and glaze to create a similar effect? I've commented on various ones of your videos having different questions. One last question: Can this be done on oak plywood? I'm pretty sure it can, but was just wondering.
What kind of plywood? You could probably get away with a light texture on an oak or ash plywood. I tried and it worked fairly good for me. Good luck...thanks for watching.
Hi...I did a second video on this process that will give you all the product information in the video and description. Here is the link: ruclips.net/video/LdmsLbqGA1c/видео.html
Thank you for the compliment...I appreciate that. The paint is the same as my video with the 3 cabinet finishes I posted. It is a tinted primer sealer from M.L. Campbell. I used a white/black oil based glaze and final step is a clear top coat of lacquer. I appreciate your visit.
Do you think that I could do this on my 30 year old red oak treads on my stairs? I'd also like to do it on the hand rail as well. They are both the famouse 1980 golden oak.
Yes...you can do this technique on your red oak hand rail and treads. It will be more work because they have to be done in place. Thanks for watching. Wes
I am trying to do this technique on some cabinets but where can I find the black paint and the white oil base glaze haven't had any luck can you give me the exact items that you use so that I can try ordering them from somewhere I'm doing the cabinets black with white glaze
Please check out another video we have posted showing products that are much easier to obtain. Hope it helps. Thank you, Wes ruclips.net/video/Lg7VupDF8sE/видео.html
Hi...I have done a video on my channel cerusing 11 different kinds of woods. Check it out to see the effect on pine, I think it would help. Thanks for watching. Wes
@@travesm5054 Hi Traves...sorry, I meant to give you this explanation when I first responded. Birch would be included in the smooth grained woods such as maple which do not do as well as the coarse grained woods, such as oak and ash. Thanks.
So why not use water to raise the grain? Don't need the makita sander. Just wet the wood and let it dry and it will raise the grain of the wood. Then can sand it somewhat to make it smooth and then do your stain technique
Hi Charles...I don't feel that water sufficiently raises the grain enough to create the texture that I am looking for. The wheel sander also removes some material that just using water would never accomplish .Thanks for your comment and I appreciate you visiting our channel.
I'm looking to do a black stain base on oak with a metallic gold ceruse as the accent... which product would you recommend for the ceruse? I used a Minwax True Black stain and I'm having trouble with too much of the accent being left covering the non-grain parts and over-vigorous steel-wooling removed too much of the stain. I really want a clean Black base with gold grain.
David...for my black color, I used a black lacquer not a stain. I then lightly sanded to smooth the lacquer. My next step was applying the white glaze - finished with a top coat of clear lacquer. Hope this helps, thanks. Wes
@@WoodworkingWithWes ok. now the info for the white glaze over black. finally found it. but when you say black lacquer. which brand and which product. w/cat or without etc.
Would something like this work to do a faux spalted look? So instead of a colored paint a clear coat. Then sealer ( what kind of sealer would you use by the way?) And then the dark glaze and a final sealer?
Hi...I don't know if you could get a faux spalted look with this process, I have never tried it . As for a sealer, check with your paint supplier for one that will meet your needs. Thank you very much for watching.
I have done a search and there isn't any stores that sell the ml Campbell 😪 I really want to give this a shot. Is there any othe brand you can recommend? We are in Indianapolis IN
Porter Cable makes a similar tool, they call it a "restorer." I have one and use it often for distressing, and semi-removing paint for that aged and peeling look.
@@WoodworkingWithWes You're welcome, and thanks for this (and the more detailed) video. I have tons of Red Oak that I never use, until now. I think I will use your technique to make some picture frames for some of my artwork.
Love your channel! I am refinishing a tabletop. I’m interested in this technique for sure. It’s made of Malaysian oak/Rubberwood. Would this work well with this type of wood? Thanks!
Unfortunately I am not familiar with the wood species that you have referenced. But if the grain is similar to American Red Oak you should be just fine. Thank you for watching and good luck! Wes
Yes this process can be done by hand. Watch our latest video with the best products and doing it by hand: ruclips.net/video/kZDk0CBRS3I/видео.html Thanks for watching, Wes
This process does not work well on the smoother grain wood like walnut. Check out our video on the channel of cerusing 11 different kinds of wood. Thanks, Wes
![Megan Thee Stallion - Roc Steady (feat. Flo Milli) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HozPPyqW0dY/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey check out the video where I go more in depth as to how I get this look ruclips.net/video/LdmsLbqGA1c/видео.html
You could have just done that in this video!
I would love to get that machine your using to texture the wood, when I can afford my next tool. Great video Wes, God bless and thank you. 🙏🏻✝️🇺🇸
Wes, you'll get a kick out of this. My dad built our house in the mid 50s. He designed most of it, and it was a fairly modern style. He built the cabinets for the home, and our kitchen was and the master batch cabinets were done in this fashion. He called it "Silver Fox" technique. This brought back SO many memories of growing up in that house. Thank you for re-discovering it.
Great story....thanks !! Because of this video I AM the one learning about all these different techniques and unique finishes that I didn't know about. Glad you enjoyed it.
Lol this is what I am thinking of doing to my black cabinets. Me and your dad think alike. "Silver fox technique" I like that
@@amiracleone2803 someone did a guitar like this and calls it the Dog Hair Guitar
@@yellowcat1310 sounds like a cool guitar
@@WoodworkingWithWes can you do black with dark purple color?
I am thinking of shou sugi ban technique with some kind of deep purple dye
IN '92 I BOUGHT MY ALL-TIME BEST CONGAS FROM LP CALLED GIOVANNI GALAXY. I FOUND A VIDEO ON HOW THEY WERE FINISHED AND THIS ONE OF YOURS IS THE CLOSEST. MANY THANKS AS THIS TECHNIQUE IS VERY NEW!!
I'm just so glad I find u now Sir.
Just in the right time.
Thx for sharing experiences.
From Syria.. All respect
Thank you and welcome to our woodworking community!! Wes
Neat!
Questions:
* What type of paint did you use?
* How did you seal the paint?
* What did you use for your glazing?
* What did you do the top coat?
Neat process
Please watch our additional video on this with the detailed information you are looking for. Thanks ruclips.net/video/LdmsLbqGA1c/видео.html
Hi...we have actually done 3 additional videos since this one to better explain product and color options. Take a look...thank you for visiting. Wes
OK! Here is my update from using Sherwin-Williams Sherwood Kem Aqua Plus Clear WB.
Sprayed two coats of Behr satin enamel paint on a large wine hutch w/ built in hickory wine rack (that was hit with lacquer)
Flawless. Turned out great! Laid on easy, melted into each coat well, no bubbling or peel of the paint.
I did a few test pieces on various woods and here are the results:
Oil based stain on maple ply: Two coats, no sanding between (30 minutes apart) no issues. I did place a third just to see and without sanding I did get some micro bumps in various spots. I wouldn't do 3 again on oil based stain.
Clear maple: No issues
Maple with oil based stain: No issues
Unsanded select pine: No issues, not even grain raise.
Walnut: No issues, though it was pretty dull. I would opt for urethane or oil top coat on this for sure.
OVERALL:
Definitely like the product and will use again for pretty everything, unless it's a walnut or natural wood requiring a pop finish. I'm going to talk to the techs at Sherwin-Williams and look into a tint to help with the "dull" look on natural woods. Hope this is helpful for all!
Thank you! Having not used water based finishes this is very informative. Sharing information like this helps all of us and I appreciate it.
I added a new video on this today which explains the process much better. Thanks ruclips.net/video/LdmsLbqGA1c/видео.html
Great video! This would be a great look to update outdated natural oak kitchen cabinets and doors.
That's a great idea! Thanks for watching.
This is such a nice technique...
I have done this technique a year ago but a simpler version. I found out by happy accident..
I got the brand "Flexa" color "Dark steel".. Its actaully a wall paint.. I simply sanded the wood with 80 grid only and painted it 2 times..
After the paint dried i stained it with a very dark gray, almost black just 1 time and sealed it with a matt varnish.
It gave me almost the same effect, just not as clear. It was a happy accident.. I like the more subtile effect because the silver woodgrains are different everytime you look at it from another angle.. From very bright to almost just as dark as the staining itself.. Depends on daytime and lighting in my house in the evening.
Its a very nice effect specially if you use wood that still has its bark on it. But leave the bark allone and have its natural color. It did nothing to it and it fits so well... so i desided to make accents in the house with this effect like hide heating pipes that come from the sealing that go thru the floor under my house and hid Hue led strips behind the bark. Also made a rectangular casing tube along the sealing with spots i them.. Wish i could post pictures in this comment..
Atm im working on a 2meter cabinet for under my TV with oak and its bark on it with the same effect.. Im loving it because it has this mix of nature and industial at the same time but not to much in your face.. very subtile.. yet still not to dark..
Great video btw love this effect aswell 🥰
Wow...I really enjoyed reading your comment! Thanks for sharing 😀 Wes
Later this year I will be building a guitar out of ash, and was looking for some tips on how to do this kind of finish. This video was really helpful, thanks for sharing!
Thank you for your nice comment. Good luck on your guitar and let me know how it comes out. Wes
1st time here; very cool Wes! Very cool. I was researching a method of staining in black. A more contemporary look for a Bakers rack I am building out of 1" rounded 1/8" aluminum. TIG welded. The wood I chose more out of economics for my sister-in-law, select 3/4 pine from HD which is lovely and clean. I burned a Mapel 2" slab for a job and used an epoxy clear bar top and it came out almost 3-dimensional, totally cool. Can't burn 3/4" anything, so wanted to try black stain. I would of got oak but didn't know. I will be learning more in the weeks to come from "Woodworking with Wes" good times
Thank you for you comment and good luck in your future projects. Wes
Been doing this for years on repurposed furniture getting it wet will naturally raise the grain as well then stain it or paint it then glaze and sand clear coat. I can match floors or any color paint to use as a base color. Burning it will also reduce the softer part of the grain and combined makes it feel like it looks.
Hi...wow, very impressive! Thank you for sharing that good information. Thank you for visiting my channel. Wes
I tried this style on my electric guitar. Wet the grain with water based aniline dye, seal with sanding sealer then sand and clear coat. Looks similar to this video, but in my case green and black. But I might try this on my next build.
Thanks for doing the cerusing videos. You’ve inspired me to finally tried it out. But I’ve run into a problem. When I go to sand after the 2nd color (glaze mix), it stays milky on the dark color. I’m not sure what I did wrong. I used exterior acrylic on 1st color (2 dark coats) and mixed glaze with white interior acrylic. The glaze didn’t wipe off very easily as it dried quite quickly. I mixed it about 3 parts glaze to 1 part paint. I thought that would be ok but when I sanded, it stayed that way. I even sanded down to bare wood in a few spots. I may not have let the 1st or 2nd color dry enough or both. It was over 24 hours drying time. Or perhaps I mixed the glaze wrong. Next time, I may try a clear coat between colors to see it that goes better. I’m going to just go with what I’ve got rather than start over as it still looks ok. It just doesn’t have the sharp contrast I was going for.
Hi...different products will give different results, always. A clear sealer coat between paint and glaze might solve the problem. Give that a test try. Thanks, Wes
@@WoodworkingWithWes yes the clear coat between paint and glaze worked much better.
Cerused or limed finishes were big back in the 1950s and early 1960s. There is nothing new about this technique. Still, good to see videos on it. Thanks.
Thank you for the insight...I appreciate knowing that. I am glad for your input and that you enjoyed it. Have a great weekend.
Yes they were. Check out the two books authored by: George Frank. Had the pleasure of meeting him years ago.
Austrian architect Josef Hoffmann did this in zthe early 1900s, he made a lot of different furnitures with this finish. Coolest thing ever!😁
the white gray looks awesome
It’s a beautiful technique and you shared it well. Let me tell you, though, how my heart sank to learn the wood has to be painted first. I just spent 3 days stripping and sanding the paint off my wood stair treads! Sob!
Yes...I feel your pain but just think you will end up with a better job in the end. Hard work always has a benefit. Good luck. Thanks for watching. Wes
Been using this technique for years. There are a whole lot of kitchens around with this finish.
Hey good to hear...its a great finish. Thanks for watching. Wes
Sar amazing your working toolsAnd amazing your working skillYou are a master of techniqueWooden workAnd I am your studentVery beautiful work you sir
Thank you very much...I appreciate your comment and am glad you like the video.
Look up "Cerused finish" or "Cerusing" It can also be done using Liming Wax so check that out too.
I will do that...thank you Tony for the suggestion.
@@WoodworkingWithWes it really is a great look I’ve used it on several jobs. Great video!
@@AJF4Me Great to hear that...thank you for your feedback. Happy New Year!
Spectacular! Well done Wes!
Thank you so very much...glad you enjoyed the video. Wes
This technique works extremely well with soft wood (Douglass Fer)
I make outdoor seating benches
I prime the stock first after dried
I take that wire brush holding it at a 45* start to brush the wood vigorous, that's it
Clean then paint
One or Two tones
One tone, grains pop very nice
It also feels good to the touch
Wow...very nice. Thanks for sharing :))
@@WoodworkingWithWes can you please share the type of paints you used for the black and white?
@@feb0885 Hey check out the video where I go more in depth as to how I get this look and the products I used. Thanks. ruclips.net/video/LdmsLbqGA1c/видео.html
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You use paint? It's not stain. Want to try this.
@@melving2564 thanks for the comments
Are you asking, do I use stain, Yes stain give a nice appeal to the sense
Paint give more of an textured effect, you see & feel the uneven grain under the paint
I love this look, thank you for sharing! You mentioned this technique only works with certain types of wood, could I do this with mango wood?
Sorry I have never done the ceruse technique on a mango wood. Thanks for watching, Wes
Guitar makers have been doing this finish for about 10 years with ash, mahogany, and other woods with strong grains with open pores. We call it "dog hair" finishes, because it recalls the varied patterns of dog breeds. We don't just use black and white - we use red, green, blue, silver, and yellow, too.
That sounds very interesting...I would love to see some. Is there a site or channel where I could see that? Thank you.
@@WoodworkingWithWes - The technique is called ceruse...
ruclips.net/video/qCH0sAczZEA/видео.html&ab_channel=ManicaroCustomGuitars
LOVE THAT BLACK ONE ON THE LEFT...;)
Cómo puede ser tan bella y noble una madera tan común. ❤️
Wes what a cool idea! You insprin' me, I'm bout to stain my coffee table somethin' like this, thanks bro!
Logan...thanks for watching! Good luck on your project and let me know how it goes. Wes
Thank you, from Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.
Our pleasure...thank you very much for visiting the channel. Wes
Are you using acrylic latex or solvent based paints?
Thank you so so much for showing this process. I'm from Manchester but am living and working in Dhaka, Bangladesh currently. I am getting some furniture made using Indian Gurjan/Balsam (Dipterocarpus turbinatus) commonly referred to as a 'metal wood' because it's quite durable and hard and furniture made from it lasts generations.
Do you have any experience working with SE Asian hard woods and staining it this way? Thanks a lot mate
No I am not familiar with that hard wood. Sorry wish I could help further. Wes
Do you think using the nylon brush on walnut would give a similar, albeit less dramatic result?
Look at our video on the channel showing this process with 11 different kinds of
wood. That will help you. Thanks, Wes
Before you put the glaze on, which finish of paint did you used? water base paint or oil base paint?
This is done with non water base primer sealer as my color coat. Thanks for watching. Wes
That is seriously awesome work man! I love the way they came out :)
Glad you like them! Wes
I did this on treads on a circular staircase. Will a lacquer be a durable enough finish? I don’t want my great work to get beat up too soon. I think a couple coats of lacquer might suffice.
Brett...I don't think lacquer would be a durable enough finish for treads on a staircase. I suggest checking with a hardwood floor supplier for a more durable finish to protect your wood. Thanks for watching. Wes
@@WoodworkingWithWes thank you for responsez
PLEASE HELP 🙏
Hi Wes, thank you for your videos. I tracked down ML Campbell Vinyl primer tinted black. They gave me a white Glaze called " Amazing glaze". I tried this method yesterday but failed. Anytime I glazed it took the black off and showed bare wood. I have 2 questions. 1) how long do you wait for the first coat of Vinyl primer to dry before you glaze it? 2) What kind of MLC glaze do you use. Amazing glaze or Woodsong II?
I sooo appreciate your reply as this is a paid job for me 🙏 I am working with Oak for a wood bed kit on a custom 1964 Chevy truck. Thank you for all your hard work showing us new woodworking skills.
Hi...your initial coat of ML Campbell primer needs to be completely dry and soft sanded to make it smooth. You possibly might need a second coat of your base layer. Again, waiting for that to dry completely. The glaze I used was ML Campbell furniture glaze. Be sure to try a sample piece. BTW, the ML Campbell primer I used was a primer/sealer if yours' is not, try a sealer coat between your tinted primer and glaze. That should solve your problem and then be sure to use a good, heavy exterior top coat on the pickup bed. Thanks, Wes
So the way you demonstrated the spray technique was different to your explanation. In the video demonstration, you showed the base colours being sprayed, then you showed the glaze colour going on top of that and wiping it down. In your explanation, you stated that you sprayed on the base colour, 'sealed it' (?), then applied your glaze coat, sanded that with a sponge sandpaper, then topcoated it. Is that correct? Very cool look!! I like it! I guess that this wouldn't work with pine? Not as grainy as the hardwoods.
I had the same question that you asked. I’ve been doing projects with pine, and the most valuable thing I learned that drastically improved the finishes is using pre stain conditioner (oil base), and the explanation I read says it makes the grain stand up/ or open up. It really made a difference, so I’m going to try it with the new technique. I saw another guy do that process on pine 2x4’s and it looked awesome. I won’t use sealer until the end.
@@patrickdunn8918 When I was installing oak hardwood treads on my stairs they needed to be stained first to match the existing hardwood floors, and we were told by the wood provider to wet each stair tread beforehand to raise the grain of the wood, then sand and repeat until the grain doesn't raise anymore. Great advice and saved a lot of frustration through what could have been a really traumatic experience.
I am with you on the red oak, it’s my fav also. Love that look, and I have subscribed to your channel to learn from you. Thank you sir.
Awesome! Thank you!
you should try mono coat, you put the pre colour on first and the oil on 2nd the oil has a hardener that you add to it, its a very durable finish used for floors but you can use it on any projects
Hi Paul...what a great idea! We appreciate this and i would love to do a video using the method you suggest. I am not familiar with the process...could you please explain in more detail as to what I would have to do to end up with the cerusing look? I am excited to give this a try and would love to give you a shout out on the video if you don't mind. If so, let us know where you are from and anything you would like us to mention with your woodworking skill level. Thank you.
@@WoodworkingWithWes ruclips.net/video/YqAg8iD2aqU/видео.html
I just found this sort video on RUclips that shows the process, their is plenty of different colours you can't combine to get different finishes, their is also a ageing, smoke and fumed products they do to name just a few, in all honesty its the best stuff I come across in a long time
@@theborderwolf Thank you very much...we will check into it.
Also works on pine... nice video.
You said you seal it on the black one, so the step is, spray the black paint, sealer, apply the white glaze and wipe the gaze.
last one is top coat.
Is it correct...?
Hi...this process is explained in greater detail on our 2nd video. This link will take you directly to it: Thank you
ruclips.net/video/LdmsLbqGA1c/видео.html
Quality of video and work is amazing,... 👍
Thanks a lot...glad you think so! Thanks for watching. Wes
Hello Wes,
I have a table that is veneer covered but with the same texture, the color is deep brown, you think I could change the color of it, it is 11 years old and has some chips but very miner, could you advise me on how I could may change the color and modernize it, I wanted it in a white-sh color maybe and not so brown
Thx
Veneer is not as easily done as solid wood, however, if you want to proceed with the cerusing process, we have videos with many color combinations. Thanks for watching. Wes
I had some old kilz laying around and got some glaze and it worked great. I didn't have much of the paint and had to get different paint and when I added glaze the paint smeared everywhere. What kind of paint do I need to keep it from smearing?
Your color coat, white or other color, to be sealed before applying the glaze. Check our latest video for help. ruclips.net/video/kZDk0CBRS3I/видео.html
Hope this helps, thanks for watching, Wes
Excellent video and a true craftsman.
This video is so well done. But I just wanted to say. The two colors of finish both of which are beautiful btw,.. would be better defined if you taped the same one piece board down the center but the same grain and sealed on one buried level just to showcase the offset of the effect of the offset of finishes but better recognized when it's viewed on the same grain profile...? If that came out correctly. All thumbs up.
Hi Richard...that's a great suggestion. I will try to get that on a video. Thanks for watching. Wes
Both look beautiful.
Thank you...I really appreciate your comment and glad you enjoyed watching. Wes
Made to look easy, great skills Wes!
Thanks for watching...I appreciate the comment. Wes
Beautiful, can this be done to hardwood floors?
Hi...some people are having success with hardwood floors. Make a test piece to make sure you get your desired look first. Good luck and thanks for watching.
Wes
Oooh! Just what I wanted to know!!! Have you tried it? Wes, this wonderful! I’ve been watching your videos most of the morning!!?
Will this work on plywood? I made faux shiplap planks and want the white with black stain look!
I assume you are using oak veneer ply which will work with this process. Thanks for watching. Wes
Hi sir.. nice video.. i would like to get beige color on oak wood with white grain!.. so i have to stain with beige.. then apply white stain on top and then buff and seal??? Can you let me get an idea? Thanks!
Yes...beige color primer sealer and then a white glaze will give you the effect you are looking for. Please watch this video to help in obtaining your products. Thank you. Wes
Is it too late to add the white to the dark stain if you have a coat of fast dry poly already on
I am sorry you have lost me. It is a paint and glaze finish but check out a ceruse video we will be putting up this Sunday that might help answer this question. Thanks, Wes
Hello Wes I was trying to figure out the brush/sander unit I would like to get one but don’t know want to call it?
Thanks for useful tips and detailed explanation.
Thank you very much I appreciate your support.
@@WoodworkingWithWes You're welcome. Take care.
Nice secret 007.Thnaks
Does the texturing remove the smoothness from sanding? A bit confused
The texturing enhances the grain so that you can feel ridges and valleys of the grain. It is not rough like an unsanded board however. Thanks, Wes
man... ive seen every damn layered glaze combo imaginable in the industry(furniture). This has been done a lot. I seen some Bernhart with that recent.
Thanks for visiting my channel. :))
What type of white paint is best to use if you’re going
To go over it with a glaze?
Stephen...We have been doing research and have recently posted a video with alternative products as well as another one coming up this weekend. Hope this will help. Thanks, Wes
Hello.
Would it work on maple floor?
Thanks
When I tested this finish on a piece of maple, the results were very unsatisfactory. You need to have a wood that has a more distinct grain pattern such as oak or ash. Hope this helps, thank you for watching.
I like the black on top of the white, but I don't like the white on top of the black. I could be the the wood grain on the darker one that made it look strange to me, almost like an animal print, but that's just not my style preference. They look beautiful and I love the idea.
would this work with maple
Hi Wes love your videos I know nothing about wood but learning all the time with your videos,I have a dark mahogany table that my mother was throwing away but would love to bring it back to life with that black/white glaze
Would I be able to do this on dark mahogany using your method white grain with Black Finnish… 😘
Hi...I have done a video on the channel showing 11 different kinds of wood finishing with cerusing method. Also check out my
latest find on what I consider the best products available:
ruclips.net/video/kZDk0CBRS3I/видео.html
Thanks for watching, Wes
I might have to try this on a rifle stock. I feel like this will allow to give it a distinct look.
You are right...that would look awesome. Send me a pic when you are done. Thank you!
@@WoodworkingWithWes So I tried it, and it just didn't come out right. Lots of curves to deal with. However I have spare pieces I can work on for future projects
@@abitofapickle6255 Sorry that didn't work out for you. I have added another video today with further explanation and product suggestions with this technique. Thank you!
ruclips.net/video/LdmsLbqGA1c/видео.html
There are a number of gun makers doing this finish on gun stocks.
Sorry Wes did I miss what products you used. Like type of paint an type of glaze ?
Thank you for bringing that to my attention...I will put it in the description. The paint is the same as my video with the 3 cabinet finishes I posted. It is a tinted primer sealer from M.L. Campbell. I used a white/black oil based glaze and final step is a clear top coat of lacquer. I appreciate your visit.
@@WoodworkingWithWes any thoughts and/or experience with the water-based finish like SW Kem-Aqua or General Finishes Enduro-Var?
@@biglav6048 I really don't have experience in using water based finishes. I stick with the products that I know and have served me well. I have heard that one of the drawbacks of water based is a longer drying time but thats about all I know. Thank you...if you try and have good results let me know, I am always interested. Thanks.
@@WoodworkingWithWes I will let you know! Picked up some Sherwood Kem Aqua Plus today. I'll post the feedback here.
@@biglav6048 Sounds good !
You are genius sir
Haha....thanks. I appreciate your comment.
Can you do butcher block top with black center paint with natural colar with clear coat over both colars
I would suggest doing a test sample to see if you can achieve your desired results. Thanks, Wes
what type of paint do you use for the base color that you sprayed on with the paint gun?
Hi...we have found two great products to use with the cerusing method that you might consider. Watch our latest video:ruclips.net/video/kZDk0CBRS3I/видео.html
Thanks for watching, Wes
Will this process work on Blackwalnut wood??
Please check out our video on 11 different kinds of wood for the cerusing process. Thanks for watching, Wes
THat is so nice finish work
Thank you very much...I appreciate you visiting.
Could you use wood dye and glaze to create a similar effect? I've commented on various ones of your videos having different questions. One last question: Can this be done on oak plywood? I'm pretty sure it can, but was just wondering.
Can this technique be done on veneer?
I have completed this process on an oak veneer panel with good results. Thanks for watching, Wes
Could you do this technique on a plywood top?
What kind of plywood? You could probably get away with a light texture on an oak or ash plywood. I tried and it worked fairly good for me. Good luck...thanks for watching.
Great video!! Can you please tell me what kind of paints you used? The black is stain as you said, but what type of paint is the white?
Hi...I did a second video on this process that will give you all the product information in the video and description. Here is the link:
ruclips.net/video/LdmsLbqGA1c/видео.html
@@WoodworkingWithWes thank you for your response.
What kind of paint used Mr. Wes? It is so beautiful! Congratulatiins!
Thank you for the compliment...I appreciate that. The paint is the same as my video with the 3 cabinet finishes I posted. It is a tinted primer sealer from M.L. Campbell. I used a white/black oil based glaze and final step is a clear top coat of lacquer. I appreciate your visit.
ruclips.net/video/3mMxC9ZWsew/видео.html
We have added another video today on this technique. Thank you.
ruclips.net/video/LdmsLbqGA1c/видео.html
@@WoodworkingWithWes in
@@WoodworkingWithWes in
Do you think that I could do this on my 30 year old red oak treads on my stairs? I'd also like to do it on the hand rail as well. They are both the famouse 1980 golden oak.
Yes...you can do this technique on your red oak hand rail and treads. It will be more work because they have to be done in place. Thanks for watching. Wes
How would it look with black prime and silver or gray glaze
Sounds great...give it a try and see what you think. Thanks for watching. Wes
That's amazing job,
which nylon brush do you recommend with that Makita? The coarse, medium or fine bristle? Thanks!
saw same question below. Looks like the Makita 9741 ships with a 100 grit (medium) nylon brush. Thanks!
nice work
Great information, learned a lot 👍👍👌😊
Thank you very much...I really appreciate your comment. Wes
Hi, what type of paint that u use? Oil paint or water based paint?
I would suggest you to check out our many cerusing videos that demonstrate different products. Thanks for watching, Wes
The technical term is called lifting the grain so the grain is higher than full surface 😊
I am trying to do this technique on some cabinets but where can I find the black paint and the white oil base glaze haven't had any luck can you give me the exact items that you use so that I can try ordering them from somewhere I'm doing the cabinets black with white glaze
Please check out another video we have posted showing products that are much easier to obtain. Hope it helps. Thank you, Wes
ruclips.net/video/Lg7VupDF8sE/видео.html
Wes just built a yellow pine table and would like to know if this process will work on this type of wood.
Hi...I have done a video on my channel cerusing 11 different kinds of woods. Check it out to see the effect on pine, I think it would help. Thanks for watching. Wes
Hi 👋 it’s cool video and thank you 🙏 so much !!
Is Birch a good candidate for this effect or not? Thanks
Please check out our video ruclips.net/video/iOH8RAJLKKs/видео.html to make your decision on birch. Thanks for watching. Wes
@@WoodworkingWithWes Thanks I watched, but birch was not included 🙁 Since it's a hard wood will it cerruse like oak or ash?
@@travesm5054 Hi Traves...sorry, I meant to give you this explanation when I first responded. Birch would be included in the smooth grained woods such as maple which do not do as well as the coarse grained woods, such as oak and ash. Thanks.
Hell Yeah so glad I found this video!
I am glad you found it too!! Thank you.
Hello. What do you seal your boards with?
Hi...often the color coat is a primer sealer, if not, a coat of clear coat of lacquer sanding sealer before the glaze works great. Thanks, Wes
So why not use water to raise the grain? Don't need the makita sander. Just wet the wood and let it dry and it will raise the grain of the wood. Then can sand it somewhat to make it smooth and then do your stain technique
Hi Charles...I don't feel that water sufficiently raises the grain enough to create the texture that I am looking for. The wheel sander also removes some material that just using water would never accomplish .Thanks for your comment and I appreciate you visiting our channel.
How bout Cedar? In middle of 120 6 foot boards
I'm looking to do a black stain base on oak with a metallic gold ceruse as the accent... which product would you recommend for the ceruse? I used a Minwax True Black stain and I'm having trouble with too much of the accent being left covering the non-grain parts and over-vigorous steel-wooling removed too much of the stain. I really want a clean Black base with gold grain.
David...for my black color, I used a black lacquer not a stain. I then lightly sanded to smooth the lacquer. My next step was applying the white glaze - finished with a top coat of clear lacquer. Hope this helps, thanks. Wes
@@WoodworkingWithWes ok. now the info for the white glaze over black. finally found it. but when you say black lacquer. which brand and which product. w/cat or without etc.
Would something like this work to do a faux spalted look? So instead of a colored paint a clear coat. Then sealer ( what kind of sealer would you use by the way?) And then the dark glaze and a final sealer?
Hi...I don't know if you could get a faux spalted look with this process, I have never tried it .
As for a sealer, check with your paint supplier for one that will meet your needs. Thank you very much for watching.
I have done a search and there isn't any stores that sell the ml Campbell 😪 I really want to give this a shot. Is there any othe brand you can recommend? We are in Indianapolis IN
We are currently investigating some alternative products that will be more readily available. Stay tuned these videos will be coming soon. Thanks Wes
100% grade A Art.
Porter Cable makes a similar tool, they call it a "restorer." I have one and use it often for distressing, and semi-removing paint for that aged and peeling look.
Thanks for the information...I didn't know about that and will check it out. Have a great weekend.
@@WoodworkingWithWes You're welcome, and thanks for this (and the more detailed) video. I have tons of Red Oak that I never use, until now. I think I will use your technique to make some picture frames for some of my artwork.
@@SupposedlyFree That sounds like a great idea...glad we could find something for you to use up your red oak. Keep up the good work!
Could you do another color… blue, teal
Love your channel! I am refinishing a tabletop. I’m interested in this technique for sure. It’s made of Malaysian oak/Rubberwood. Would this work well with this type of wood? Thanks!
Unfortunately I am not familiar with the wood species that you have referenced. But if the grain is similar to American Red Oak you should be just fine. Thank you for watching and good luck! Wes
great vid great vibes
can this be done by hand i dont have the gun set up and its for a 1 time project.
Yes this process can be done by hand. Watch our latest video with the best products and doing it by hand:
ruclips.net/video/kZDk0CBRS3I/видео.html
Thanks for watching, Wes
Porous woods like mahogany also works excellent..
Thanks for your comment. Wes
How well will it hold up t UV ‘s
Ive been doing this finish at my job for the last 10 years. We call it ceruse
Wow thats awesome. Then I am sure you could teach me a few things. Thanks
Thank you for the piece of wisdom.
My pleasure...thank you for watching.
@WoodworkingWithWes will this work with American Walnut wood ?
This process does not work well on the smoother grain wood like walnut. Check out our video on the channel of cerusing 11 different kinds of wood. Thanks, Wes