I just fixed my old Roper ( Sears was made by Roper back in 70's ) with a charging issue....i had tested it awhile ago..but it blew a belt...sat for awhile...wasn't charging for a few years...couldn't recall what i figured out way back..so i just charged it when i needed it and it was fine... and I have other tractors too.. I just got it going again and decided to fix the charging....tests showed Stator ok ( phew ) but reg not sending any charging voltage...i just bought another Onan tractor so had a reg to test now...( but i had no idea if it worked - the reg - as i had issues to fix and it runs now but i have to find time to finish it )...i swapped in the test reg... It works perfectly now...charges good 14.5+ volts...regulates and ammeter now Moves!! I remember now why i just charged it...Damn Onan parts are extinct or Expensive to buy!! I found a Kohler reg in a used engine in my shop...plan to test it as it is similar to my Onan ( AC - + - AC ) and should work ...but i don't know if this one is good yet... Or the new tractor stator is good...so i gotta test it all again to confirm....hopefully it works as replacement regs are chinese cheap or expensive... Basically a reg is a reg if you have dual AC outs ....
The engine would not stay running, so I (incorrectly) thought it was a bad regulator. My test set-up eventually worked, and proved the regulator was good. My test set-up is good for testing other 12V components. I need to build one that can provide more than 2 amps. Turned out to be the key switch was faulty.
Helped solve my problem. That is, once you hooked up the 12v battery to it. I believe that was my problem. 12v battery voltage was not getting to center terminal of regulator.
Mine keeps blowing fuse but when I unplug volt reg it doesn’t blow the fuse. Doesn’t matter if key is on or off as soon as fuse touches the block it blows. Any help would very much appreciated.
It's hard to test a REG with a multimeter. Very little information on what the correct readings should be. I bet if you reverse the leads you will get different readings. Best way is to just swap it out with a known good one, or do a test set-up like I did, only without the mistakes.
You need a battery with a regulator as it adjusts the voltage as it needs to charge your battery and run your load ( engine+lights +acc's ).... Turn your lights or any electrical loads On... and rev your engine to test your charging voltages... Also test your getting AC out of stator etc.....( i think u did that?? ) You can also test the regulator diodes too to see if they are good... If all checks out it is not related to your charging system ( engine not running )....then you move to the next problem area.... You might have sediment in your fuel system ( carb most like needs cleaning ) due to your cracked fuel tank?? And your solenoid on carb could be the problem ( electrically or dirty too )....pull it off to see if it is dirty and test it...sometimes they stick as well as get weak....
Why don't you test it when connected to a battery and engine running?? That is the proper way to test your charging system on a mower....charge your battery up..replace if real bad....then test while it runs....sometimes over thinking makes your results wrong...not that your setup is bad...it just doesn't work on every component... Sounds like your battery is dying?
It's a regulator rectifier.
I just fixed my old Roper ( Sears was made by Roper back in 70's ) with a charging issue....i had tested it awhile ago..but it blew a belt...sat for awhile...wasn't charging for a few years...couldn't recall what i figured out way back..so i just charged it when i needed it and it was fine... and I have other tractors too.. I just got it going again and decided to fix the charging....tests showed Stator ok ( phew ) but reg not sending any charging voltage...i just bought another Onan tractor so had a reg to test now...( but i had no idea if it worked - the reg - as i had issues to fix and it runs now but i have to find time to finish it )...i swapped in the test reg... It works perfectly now...charges good 14.5+ volts...regulates and ammeter now Moves!! I remember now why i just charged it...Damn Onan parts are extinct or Expensive to buy!! I found a Kohler reg in a used engine in my shop...plan to test it as it is similar to my Onan ( AC - + - AC ) and should work ...but i don't know if this one is good yet... Or the new tractor stator is good...so i gotta test it all again to confirm....hopefully it works as replacement regs are chinese cheap or expensive... Basically a reg is a reg if you have dual AC outs ....
The engine would not stay running, so I (incorrectly) thought it was a bad regulator. My test set-up eventually worked, and proved the regulator was good. My test set-up is good for testing other 12V components. I need to build one that can provide more than 2 amps. Turned out to be the key switch was faulty.
Helped solve my problem. That is, once you hooked up the 12v battery to it. I believe that was my problem. 12v battery voltage was not getting to center terminal of regulator.
Thanks, yep needing the 12v was confusing me, but glad it helped you out!
I have apparently wondered into the advanced class.
Thanks, the problem was a faulty key switch.
@@larrybl
Ok glad you found your problem!!
👍
Thanks dude.
Mine keeps blowing fuse but when I unplug volt reg it doesn’t blow the fuse. Doesn’t matter if key is on or off as soon as fuse touches the block it blows. Any help would very much appreciated.
Could the V-reg be shorted? Check with a multi-meter.
I tested for continuity to the VR body from each pin. All three had continuity from each pin,is that normal? thanks a million
It's hard to test a REG with a multimeter. Very little information on what the correct readings should be. I bet if you reverse the leads you will get different readings. Best way is to just swap it out with a known good one, or do a test set-up like I did, only without the mistakes.
You need a battery with a regulator as it adjusts the voltage as it needs to charge your battery and run your load ( engine+lights +acc's )....
Turn your lights or any electrical loads On... and rev your engine to test your charging voltages...
Also test your getting AC out of stator etc.....( i think u did that?? )
You can also test the regulator diodes too to see if they are good...
If all checks out it is not related to your charging system ( engine not running )....then you move to the next problem area....
You might have sediment in your fuel system ( carb most like needs cleaning ) due to your cracked fuel tank??
And your solenoid on carb could be the problem ( electrically or dirty too )....pull it off to see if it is dirty and test it...sometimes they stick as well as get weak....
As stated at the very beginning " The engine won't stay running"
@@larrybl
Ok fair enough....i watched it but was just mentioning the best way to test ( usually easiest too )...
If you hear the click you must acquit
As stated at the very beginning " The engine won't stay running"
Why don't you test it when connected to a battery and engine running?? That is the proper way to test your charging system on a mower....charge your battery up..replace if real bad....then test while it runs....sometimes over thinking makes your results wrong...not that your setup is bad...it just doesn't work on every component...
Sounds like your battery is dying?
Engine would not stay running.
Garry Mallard, I also have a Roper 20T Fully restored. ruclips.net/video/pGnXcUd3yZg/видео.html
bad ground my guess
Bad key switch, engine wouldn't stay running.