This episode 7 series is amazing. as each video progresses, your production quality goes up. Perfect timing on cuts to make a tedious job interesting. Great work!
When I worked in the dealership, I'd do the lifters and pushrods your way, with lube. On the rockers, pivots and locknuts, I'd assemble them all loose, just enough turns on the but to start it. Then I'd take a pump oilcan and squirt oil all over the rockers. I'd preliminary adjust the valves doing the three step method, but leave valve covers off. I had metal and plastic rocker stoppers I'd put on the oil holes on the rocker tips. I'd start the engine, get it up to temp, then would go over each rocker, loosening until it went tjc tic tic, then tighten it slowly until the noise just stopped, then go a half turn more. Then repeat on all the others. Then remove the rocker stoppers and install your valve covers, and clean any spilled oil off engine.
Yep, pretty much anyone will agree that setting preload with the engine running is the best way to do it. Have done it once, using a valve cover with a slot cut in it, made a big mess. Your way of blocking the oil flow seems way better haha. But I'm planning to leave it as-is for this engine, unless it develops a tick after break-in.
To varying degrees, I sure do worry about everything! But if something does go wrong it will end up in a video so it just becomes being something to learn from and hopefully help others avoid, which is one justification of why it's okay for me to ignore problems haha
It does decrease friction, so over a dry fastener, yes it would! Factory torque specs take that into account though (I would sure hope they all would at least), and even torque across the head is more important than a few ft/lbs high or low overall, so don't worry about it. Same with thread locker and antiseize, they lubricate the threads so any torque specs for dry fasteners should theoretically be decreased accordingly, but I don't know of anybody that actually does this.
Almost entirely cost, I was really being cheap here (probably too cheap lol), but I also wanted the experience of properly breaking in a flat tappet cam, as well. Hadn't actually done that before, I like to do things just to have done them sometimes!
It's not super easy to rotate, and especially with only one cylinder head on it can be a little annoying to manage that weight distribution. But there isn't any reason that wouldn't work!
Fair enough. You ever have money and time to burn a roller cam and rockers are a pretty good power upgrade for the money. You can port those TBI heads for free too!
You did a much more thorough job than a lot of people that claim to be expert mechanics.
This episode 7 series is amazing. as each video progresses, your production quality goes up. Perfect timing on cuts to make a tedious job interesting. Great work!
Love your work hear! Great to see an old S-10 Blazer getting some love!
Hi I'm deaf.... you are work hard to fix good motor.. I love to watch ur motor video,,,,
These videos are coming out real quick, props to you man good job
Man this is a really fantastic series. Very interesting!
When I worked in the dealership, I'd do the lifters and pushrods your way, with lube. On the rockers, pivots and locknuts, I'd assemble them all loose, just enough turns on the but to start it. Then I'd take a pump oilcan and squirt oil all over the rockers. I'd preliminary adjust the valves doing the three step method, but leave valve covers off. I had metal and plastic rocker stoppers I'd put on the oil holes on the rocker tips. I'd start the engine, get it up to temp, then would go over each rocker, loosening until it went tjc tic tic, then tighten it slowly until the noise just stopped, then go a half turn more. Then repeat on all the others. Then remove the rocker stoppers and install your valve covers, and clean any spilled oil off engine.
Yep, pretty much anyone will agree that setting preload with the engine running is the best way to do it. Have done it once, using a valve cover with a slot cut in it, made a big mess. Your way of blocking the oil flow seems way better haha. But I'm planning to leave it as-is for this engine, unless it develops a tick after break-in.
Thats because your'e a real technician Dave1135.... He isn't
Great editing! I can't wait until you are able to get this fired up.
This series makes me want to get out in the garage and build an engine. And I don't even need an engine rebuilt right now.
great video and instruction, you're doing a fine job with this series.
Really love this video series. Always excited to see a new episode come out :)
I always use extra virgin olive oil on my rocker arms. Guaranteed 10+ hp at the wheel!
Your motto through the season is “ya but I’m not gunna worry about it” I’d probably worry about it
To varying degrees, I sure do worry about everything! But if something does go wrong it will end up in a video so it just becomes being something to learn from and hopefully help others avoid, which is one justification of why it's okay for me to ignore problems haha
Loving these
Love the series! Great work...
Im from argentina congrats for this videos... i want to see the engine runs
hallo frome greece....!!! very nice work
Your editing is getting smooth---
Yo you have quality content. get some ads on here you deserve the money
I wonder what color he's going to paint it???
A traditional bright and obnoxious color!
When you calculated Compression ratio shouldn't it be -12 for piston recess? Dish piston - Pop up + ?
I was always told to use white grease on the cam
Nice! But I hate Moly lube! Once it's In your engine, it's there for life. Messy horrible stuff lol.
Yep, you're not wrong. Only thing I'll use it for in an engine is breaking in a cam, because it does seem to be great for that.
Love it man
Remember to run oil with zinc
Yep! Required for long life in flat tappet engines. Have some very concentrated ZDDP break in additive for the cam, too.
Assembly lube looks a lot like gear oil, are they similar in composition?
I thought that all head gasgets have an arrow pointing front or written front on there.
Looked like The Flash tightened your head bolts.
Question, would thread sealer give you an incorrect ft/lb number?
It does decrease friction, so over a dry fastener, yes it would! Factory torque specs take that into account though (I would sure hope they all would at least), and even torque across the head is more important than a few ft/lbs high or low overall, so don't worry about it. Same with thread locker and antiseize, they lubricate the threads so any torque specs for dry fasteners should theoretically be decreased accordingly, but I don't know of anybody that actually does this.
sweet! i appreciate the response, learn something new everyday lol
That's a roller lifter block. Any reason, other than cost why you didn't get a roller cam for it since you were getting a new cam anyway?
Almost entirely cost, I was really being cheap here (probably too cheap lol), but I also wanted the experience of properly breaking in a flat tappet cam, as well. Hadn't actually done that before, I like to do things just to have done them sometimes!
Noice
Noice
Why don't you rotate the block so the header is flat to install? I'm a newbie so sorry if it's a dumb question,
It's not super easy to rotate, and especially with only one cylinder head on it can be a little annoying to manage that weight distribution. But there isn't any reason that wouldn't work!
Your block is designed for roller lifters, why not use them?
Money. That's pretty much the answer to every "why not do this" question about this project haha
Fair enough. You ever have money and time to burn a roller cam and rockers are a pretty good power upgrade for the money. You can port those TBI heads for free too!
you forgot the keepers
1000класс
x d