this is how I installed a Tremec 5spd in my 1965 289 Mustang using all the original clutch pedal and clutch linkage assemble including the 1965 throwout bearing arm and throwout bearing. Take a 1965 Bell housing and drill out the two fulcrum mounting rivets. index using the four transmission mounting holes a template, plexiglass is good. Drill the two 1965 fulcrum holes. Take your template and bolt t to your new 5sdg bell housing. drill the two fulcrum holes and counter sink them. . Take out the cable pitot arm. As you stated the imput shafts are different. Between a top loader and a Tremec, 5/8th of an inch longer Tremec. So I machined aluminum bar stock 5/8th of an inch thick and made a spacer to move the 1965 fulcrum forward in the 5 spd bell housing and bolted it down with grade 8 fine thread bolts and metal locking nuts. That is it, no cables, no hydraulics. So the money I saved not going hydraulic or cable went to a aluminium drive shaft. I also used a diaphragm 10 1/2 inch clutch. So I used the solid input shaft bearing, 1965 throwout bearing, 1965 throw out bearing arm. The conversion cost me less than $20 less the machine shop, which was free for me, we had a Bridge Port. And I would never go back to a toploader, never. I have had this in my car 35 years. I also have a very cool front suspension modification using all For OEM parts that does the Shelby drop, but when I finished the car is almost level. It does sit low like the normal modification. This allows for no rolling fenders and bigger tires. And it only requires one shim per upper control arm bolt.
the factory tunnel support interferes slightly with the top of the shifter housing in the 65-66 Mustangs. OK for later years. Its suggested to move the tunnel support back about 2-3/4″ to fix this. Do not suggest cutting it as that may change the integrity of the tunnel support.
Stick with a top loader and use a 3 finger clutch. Will blow that set up you got going to pieces . Old school shit worked and won many races.this stuff is a waste of money
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this is how I installed a Tremec 5spd in my 1965 289 Mustang using all the original clutch pedal and clutch linkage assemble including the 1965 throwout bearing arm and throwout bearing. Take a 1965 Bell housing and drill out the two fulcrum mounting rivets. index using the four transmission mounting holes a template, plexiglass is good. Drill the two 1965 fulcrum holes. Take your template and bolt t to your new 5sdg bell housing. drill the two fulcrum holes and counter sink them. . Take out the cable pitot arm. As you stated the imput shafts are different. Between a top loader and a Tremec, 5/8th of an inch longer Tremec. So I machined aluminum bar stock 5/8th of an inch thick and made a spacer to move the 1965 fulcrum forward in the 5 spd bell housing and bolted it down with grade 8 fine thread bolts and metal locking nuts. That is it, no cables, no hydraulics. So the money I saved not going hydraulic or cable went to a aluminium drive shaft. I also used a diaphragm 10 1/2 inch clutch. So I used the solid input shaft bearing, 1965 throwout bearing, 1965 throw out bearing arm. The conversion cost me less than $20 less the machine shop, which was free for me, we had a Bridge Port. And I would never go back to a toploader, never. I have had this in my car 35 years. I also have a very cool front suspension modification using all For OEM parts that does the Shelby drop, but when I finished the car is almost level. It does sit low like the normal modification. This allows for no rolling fenders and bigger tires. And it only requires one shim per upper control arm bolt.
I have a 1972 mustang and im putting a jon kaase boss 429 hemi head emgine with about 500-600 hp, would this work with it?
Hi what if there was a 28 ounce weight in the C6 flexplate?? And now your flywheel will be missing it right?
Does the TKX have any interference with the tunnel?
the factory tunnel support interferes slightly with the top of the shifter housing in the 65-66 Mustangs. OK for later years.
Its suggested to move the tunnel support back about 2-3/4″ to fix this. Do not suggest cutting it as that may change the integrity of the tunnel support.
Stick with a top loader and use a 3 finger clutch. Will blow that set up you got going to pieces . Old school shit worked and won many races.this stuff is a waste of money