The NEW MILWAUKEE finish nailers are here!
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- Опубликовано: 26 июл 2024
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Build permanent work benches for miter saw and roll Milwaukee mobile boxes under miter saw benches for storage. Roll them out when you need another work surface. Take advantage of their mobility in a small shop.
Perfect. I think this is absolutely the best advise given. Makes really good sense. I know I would be glad at some point later on.
My thoughts exactly. I would perhaps even mount the miter saw bench to the wall and then indeed make these boxes slide just under the bench.
This definitely sounds like the best option for a small shop. You get a level miter table, and you keep the mobility and extra functional work bench space when you need it. In this scenario, all you need to worry about is the right-side gap between the bottom of the permanent bench and the top of the Milwaukee bench will be larger than the gap on the left-side. You may have to trim out the underside of the permanent bench to hide the gap difference, if you're even worried about that kind of thing.
@@paulkruse1219 if only he knew someone that could do trim work😂
I was thinking the same thing it's either that, replace the casters with adjustables
Can you do a video for us newbie trim installers on what you use each guage for? 15ga for doors? 16 guage for base and casing? 18 for stain grade trim? what are your tricks for choosing the right guage?
If your willing to leave the toolboxes where they are you could take the casters off and put them on wood toe kick frames.
Amazon sells spacekeeper casters that allow you to step on them, bringing the faster down when the bench needs to be moved. Otherwise they are lifted out of the way. It requires the bench to be mounted to a wood frame on the bottom. Not that expensive and they carry a ton of weight.
@@FinishCarpentryTV you could just cram some 4x4's + shims under the boxes to pick the casters up off the floor and level them out. Then if you need to move them you just jack up one end, pull the blocks out, etc.
I agree, one thing to consider is if it is a cutoff saw station you really don't want to have it move around and then have to re adjust everything back to specs such as level and tracks and tape measure
This.
Make height adjustable table tops for the two units whereby you can raise, lower, or slope each independently. That will allow you to keep the mobility if necessary and adjust the tops to level regardless of slope.
Love your humour
Anwenk Leveling Feet Heavy Duty Furniture Levelers Adjustable Table Leg Leveler w/Lock Nuts for Furniture,Table, Cabinets, Workbench,Shelving Units and More,Bla
I had a similar setup…rolling tool cart on either side of a window …slope problem. I built a torsion box “countertop” with triangle supports on either side of the window that in turn support the bridge that holds the saw. The countertop is high enough for me to park my rolling tool boxes underneath. Max flexibility.
Thank you, I am done reparing my pas load 16 gauge and off to order this one, your test was complete and very clear
As usual awesome video. I went compressor free 2 yrs ago. I did have to use compressor just for the 15ga nail gun but everything else is Milwaukee. I used a crown stapler when I didn’t want to use compressor. I still have all power tools in the truck as back up.
Instead of shimming the casters with washers - which will cause them to be unlevel if you move them - install leveling legs that will allow you to raise/lower heights, but gives you the flexibility of moving the cabinets by backing the legs off.
+1 I like this idea too
Me too. Viking arms do this but are expensive
+2. Plus leveling legs will make the carts rock solid.
Leveling legs all the way
Man I love my battery nail guns. Especially the 16 gauge and 23 gauge. Haven’t had a compressor on site forever. It’s nice.
Maaaan Richard your too cool man been watching your videos for years and always loving them. Keep up the great work and content man👍 for another 100 years!
Wow, your channel has grown nicely over last year or two. Good for you. You deserve it!
I have the 18 and love it .I'm going out today to get 16 angled. Was nervous until I saw this thanks for the video.
Build a level deck for both box’s to roll up on . Use 1/2 birch plywood and taper cut the framing. You should be able to roll the boxes on and off on the shallow end . Just put plenty of support under the plywood
I second this. build a level ground for the boxes that way you can still move them if you want, without the casters being off level or modified. Doesn't need to be very high, just high enough to fit the wood and the framing as well as account for the slant. Great idea.
Looking forward to your miter station build. I picked up a couple of husky rolling boxes a few months back and started on mine. Just got busy and haven’t finished it yet. Also I guess because I just don’t know how I want to do it. I did end up pulling the wheels off my buses and building a level platform for them to sit on. Looking forward to your ideas
I built bases to put my tools boxes on and make them level. Worked great and made the base removable so I could still roll the toolbox around.
My 18g has saved me so much time and effort. Love these tools
You can’t underestimate good functionality in a small shop. It was smart of you to use tool storage boxes under the miter saw wings. Much more practical than miter stands. Good job. I’m liking your space so far. Pretty good. I’m still working on my shop after the new minimax slider. It’s been fun. Almost feeling like it’s a new shop again.
@@FinishCarpentryTV Thanks a lot. Its amazing how much a shop can get so messy before it gets better. When are you getting your saw by the way? I heard it was taking a year to get one these days.
I just ordered two of the 52" mobile workstations (after seeing this) because I think the clamping ability of the raised worktop will be excellent along with my miter saw. I may even router in some t-tracks.
Im equipped with the 18 straight trim gun and the 23 brad gun. Milwaukee 18 Fuel line is awesome. No more compressors !!!!! You can now listen to your radio all day long uninterrupted.
I really like the new DeWaukee finish nailers you've got there!
Love my 15 and the framing nailer. Highly recommend the M12 23 gauge pin nailer!!
I just ordered the pin nailer over BF, hoping it runs as good as the bigger guns seem to!
Congrats on your new toys. Enjoy them mightily.
Been waiting to see more about these guns before I pulled the trigger. After watching this, I’m definitely getting that 16 ga nailer. Nice and quiet, fast, precision shooting, just seems like they nailed it (no pun)
Build a permanent work bench and roll the tool boxes underneath, with a slopped floor and 8 wheels getting it perfectly flat will be difficult and then if you move it you’ll throw it all off. This way you’ll have the bench surface of the saw and then the added benches of the tool boxes if needed and when you don’t you can tuck them back under and out of the way.
Great review! I’ve been waiting years for Milwaukee to re-release these weapons! I’m so pumped up they look like they did their homework. I hope my guns perform as well as these👍👍👍
I love my 15g nailer. Never let me down. Consistent drives. Never had a jam or misfire. Can’t go wrong. Preferred over my pneumatic Bostitch
I’ve been airless for 6 months with the 18g and the 23g. Both are dreams and neither have a had a jam yet. Not once. Milwaukee rocks
That zero ramp up time just sold me on those nail guns.
I had a similar problem i took off the casters and built a 2x4 platform and cut the studs in a wedge to make top of platform level or even 2x6 if you need hight
I love my 18ga version. You’re making props for Enter the Dragon remake!!
I would take the caster's off and use threaded adjustable feet for the new rolling box man
I had a similar problem. I just built a platform that made the top level ad added the wheels (inset) under the platform. If the workspace is going to be fixed, just leave the wheels off. You can paint the platforms to match the cabinets.
Countertops on a track that can be raised up over the window.. with or without the mitersaw. Tool boxes can still roll out and placed together in the middle for table saw that also lowers from the ceiling into place at the end of the boxes
In my garage I built a reverse sloped platform to make up the difference. Now all my cabinets and miter station are 💯 level. 17 feet by 23 inches. Growing from 1 inch to 2 1/2 inches. Now all set
Those are awesome!
Someone has said below, get some leveling legs and bolt them to the base of each tool box. I have seen some with the push down to lift pegs that are adjustable for this purpose. The nice thing is that if you move them around, you can level them all over again.
Remove casters and hang them on the wall leaving room to run a dust mop under as needed. Or do a simple search for heavy duty workbench leveling feet. You can leave the casters on and outboard mount the levelers.
Back 5 years ago, I got Ryobi 18 gauge nailer instead of Milwaukee. Then Milwaukee improved their 18 ga nailer. I decided to wait for my Ryobi to break. Never happened. Then I got Milwaukee 21 stud nailer. I couldn’t wait for them to improve their 15 ga. They did. And I got it a few weeks ago. It is a great nailer.
Ok back to my Ryobi. Like many of my Ryobi, it never breaks and has been faithful despite so much abuse. So I am sticking with it till the bitter end.
Use wheel coasters that protect your carpet and cut out ply wood or rubber liner the same shape and glue them together ! Hopefully you get the idea 💡
No whistle of approval? I'm shocked! Great video, thanks Richard!
Sometimes the easiest method is the best method. Take the casters off the one rolling tool chest and shim them out with the heavy duty flat washers until each end of the chest is level with the other rolling tool chest. You’ll need to use different amounts depending which end of the rolling tool chest your leveling but that way both still mobile and everything is level and will play nicely with your intended miter set up. Cheers bud! Love the content
I would make elevated blocks for three of the sets of the caster wheels to keep your work stations level straight across. Mark the floor or wall where these blocks are placed in case you want to move your workstations around and be able to quickly put them level again.
To make leveling those tool boxes way easier, invest in 2 of the Viking Arm. They make so many jobs easier. Just be careful of all the knock offs. They should be around $200 each. I know Massca products sells them and I think Home Depot is selling them now. Best money I have spent.
You might consider mounting the tool chests right to the wall studs which would make them much more stable and would allow you to level them.
You are tall enough. Cut a sheet of 3/4 ply in half length wise. Shim the plywood on the floor to make a level surface. Then you can roll the tool boxes onto the plywood without having to modify or adjust the tool boxes in any way.
Love my 18 gauge, but my older gen 1 16 gauge is not up to scratch. PLEASE tell Milwaukee to get them over to Australia!
Love the content, mate!
Impressive that you were able to unload that rolling tool station yourself... and quite ballsy for you to trust that plank. I have the same one and that thing is intimidatingly heavy.
Shim between the butcher block tops a the tool cabinets. Sometimes the tops are even freestanding . But if the tops are screwed down just loosen and shim between
I love my Milwaukie airless finish and framing guns
I love my 16 ga nailer..and the 20 degrees gets me right in the corner
Tool boxes, take the casters off, build a platform or frame to your desired height and set the boxes into a catch rabbit on top and set a toe kick also. Just a thought young man. Congrats on the nailers and boxes.
This is pretty sick. I need it!!
I just picked up the gen 2 18 gauge and it is amazing…
My favorite nail gun fo woodworking is my cordless pin nailer. It’s just as good as using CA glue
Where i live, the only place i can get milwaukee is home depot. They only carry the straight 16ga, not the angled. So i got the straight. I thought it would be hard to get into corners and stuff, but its actually quite good. Tons of power too.
I would like to see you explained what 1 will you use the Brad Naylor 18 16 and 15 and 15 what they each get used for
👍🏻🍻🍺🎁🎄
You just answered my question on the 16 gauge nailer🤯
Build a platform that spans both tool chests that way you use threaded leveling feet and recess the t-track into the platform. Then just drop the full length platform on top of the chests without permanently modifying the chests. Then add small drawers into the platform for measuring tools of small jigs.
I would take the casters off and build bases like you would for a washer and dryer, that way you would solve the level problem and you could build it to the exact height you want it. Boom 💥
Thank you for the video
Ditch the casters on the tool boxes. Then you can either level the boxes or level the top you put across the boxes.
Love your videos. i have been using air for years, framing, 16, and 18 ga. purchased a dewalt 18ga last year no complaints. now after reviewing several videos on milwaukee i am thinking about either the 15 or 16 ga but cannot make up my mind as i have never used or considered a 15ga. what and where would i need a 15 ga vs a 16 ga?
thanks in advance
Use a floor jack to pick up the tool box and get it where you need to them shim it up.
Love your work...love the channel....I think you should build a ramp with the same slope to make level with flat landings for the wheels in case u need to roll them out for any reason. Hope my idea can help.
I ordered the 15g a couple weeks ago the gen 1 had some negative reviews now I'm pumped!!!
Milwaukee FTW!💪🏽🙌🏽👏🏽
I have both, they are great👍
Build a 3 or 4 inch high level platform down that wall to set the milwaukee tool boxes on, that way whatever you have on that wall will be level
i'm looking into getting one for doing some tongue and groove boards and moldings and get into doing some cabinet work.
Have you thought about leveling casters. I know northern tool has them but it really depends on the bolt pattern of existing casters.
Try and retro fit the wheels themselves with adjustable rolling wheels.
Great video, but please help educate me. As I primarily work in a shop environment, 1) What would be the driving reason to have both the 15 and 16 gauge gun? 2) Besides the 15 gauge nail being thicker, in what applications would I use it over the 16?
My 2¢ - take the top off of the cabinets and shim them up then put them back on. Could maybe even use some of the grk door jamb screws somehow to adjust them later.
To level the saw station,put deminishing shimmeson on floor floor fix plywood with upstanding and lock wheels in place when ply and shimmes are levelled
Mannn we are living in the golden age for construction, renovations and carpentry. We have carbide tipped reciprocating saw blades that cut up cast iron radiators like butter! Battery powered everything (LED lights, tablesaws, mitre saw’s, grinders etc.) that last all day! PPE And and work gear is getting a lot better for the job site, keeping us warm in the winter, cool in the summer and safe all year long!
Now if they can just give us some shop vac without a pleated filter! Something that has LEDs on the handle, remote control and also cleans the air when you want break! Dyson, Shark and Hoover etc. do a great job for the home vacuum cleaner, you don’t need bags or filters, but the jobsite is left behind! I hate shop vac with every fibre of me, but have to use them constantly.
Have the new 18 ga and it's amazing. Bought the framer 2 weeks ago and it's amazing. Can't wait to get my hands in the 15 ga and m12 pinner
Not going to get the 16gauge?
No I've never used a 16ga. I bought the pinner and it's amazing. I will get the 15ga also but I don't feel the need for 16 ga
Hi Rich, if you floor doesn't slope to much, maybe you could make the entire surface co-planer with the floor (on a slight angle) it might help with all that shimming the when you make the saw stand it too would be co-planer with the floor, it might eliminate all the shimming, just a thought, good luck and I know you will do an awesome job what ever route you take.
Hey Buddy. What I would do is remove the caster bolts and add some that are a tad longer. Then go get a variety of front end shims from your local auto store. Jack up the end you need to raise and slide in some shims until you're at the right height. Shims are way easier than fumbling with washers off and on. When you get it just right, Just tighten up the bolts with the shims in place and you'll be gold.
Rich
Great video,review thanks
Sweet!!
Get the casters that spin and you can adjust the heights
seems easier to mark your wall where you want the tool cabinets to set ... so that a quick visual will put them back in place everytime... then once in place .. shim up the wood tops on the cabinets to level.. then you can roll them out anytime and put them right back in the same spot . You might even be able to get some adjustable legs to put on the bottom of the wood tops... just the screw in type like on metal cabinets or appliances
Build a separate toe base for each of the cabinets level those, then remove the casters and set the tool boxes on those. Also look into the new woodpeckers stealth stop miter saw system. you can put it into the top and the flip stops fold down into the table so they arent in your way,
Great job
We just need a cordless flooring nailer now
Depends....DO you want the cabinets to roll? Then you'd need to insert shims between the cabinet and casters. Not sure how the casters are attached but playing underneath the weight of the cabinets does not seem fun. Next question is...do you wish to continually clean under the cabinets? If that isn't a problem, then I'd try swapping casters for leveling feet. If you do not wish to keep cleaning, made them a platform to sit on and remove the casters. Obviously taper the lower edge of the platform to match the slope of the garage floor.
I would take the boxes of the casters and build a base. ✌🏽
Milwaukee needs to step the light output up on these tools. I can't say I've been in a situation where I've needed it and its been very useful.
So stoked they are finally here!
I would do a toe kick but still allow for the move ability of the chests. Build a a ramp inside where it locks down and doesn’t move. Almost like a lock inside the toe kick. When you pull the lock out you can move the chests out. You still wanna stay mobile I am assuming because you bought those.
Big fan, love my 18ga. Wondering if you have specific uses for the 16ga. I have my eye on the 23ga, but just bought a festool sander so….maybe after new year lol.
Good for you, early present!
Laser level the wall and take measurements, apply washers as needed. Boom!
(I’m not experienced)
Just wanted to say how I had to do exactly the same thing when I got my Milwaukee rolling tool chest out of my truck, but I also had the top half of the bench as well. I wish I could show you the pictures. Made the same ramp with wood planks and tires underneath for cushion incase it fell. So Yes I got both pieces out by myself. Getting them in the truck was just lucky because the rolling flat table trucks at HD were just the right height with the bed of my truck to slide them in on their backs .. butttt it took 3 or 4 guys from HD just to put it on the rolling table and just me to put it in and take it out of my truck. ... anyway I gotta get back to your video and checkout your review of those guns... later dude...
Change the right sides 2 rollers out with leveling feet , level up then when needed then you can twist them up off the floor and still roll around on the other 4 wheels or maybe do both ends all 4 and it would still probably roll around on just the 2 middle rollers, just balance . This can work any place so if you move around or out to the driveway would be same level. Keep it simple.
I think you will really like them. 3.0ahHO battery will work great and last all day.
Can you give a little explanation on what you'd use each of these guns for? Such a similarly sized nail, is it really necessary to have both?
Mount the rolling boxes in place and make one level bench across both tops. (you will have to shim the right side and fasten it to the top.) Than cut out the space for the miter saw and reattach at the correct height also connecting both boxes together making one level surface. Also the two sides can extend well past the boxes and you can custom make a backstop to run the length of the table.
Richard, I need information on how to order the glue you use for crown molding
my suggestion is to use 1-2 small car jacks under the tool chest, that way you can easily let it down if you need to roll the chest around.... 2 would allow you to raise one side more than the other, if needed