Basically, established car manufacturers know more about building / improving cars than your average human. Priceless information. Thanks for sharing, Mat.
@@MrRea112 car manufacturers probably do know more than someone whos designing an aftermarket part, issue is higher ups tell them to make cars with lower costs, greater wider appeal and greater ease of production and thus are compromised in one aspect or another (in 99.9% of cases). its crazy how people like OP think just because manufacturers throw millions at R&D means youre getting the best performing product possible with no room for improvement
@@RogueCowTurd True. Doesn’t that cynicism make it even more outrageous? The customer is treated like mindless fodder to be fed the cheapest muck at the highest price. There was a time when companies like Mercedes possibly Toyota genuinely believed the customer deserved quality, reliability served with integrity
@@MrRea112 in some cases yeah for sure, minimum viable product is definitely a thing but at the same time regular car brands cant be going out and putting the best performance parts they can design on their production sports cars. for example toyota/bmw cant slap the best flowing titanium exhausts on the supra because any excess cost needs to be passed onto the customer which can make the car uncompetitive financially, they also have to deal with many countries laws so a loud exhaust with no cats will stop it from being able to be sold in some parts of the world and even if we ignore that, the general person who just wants a sporty car doesnt want endless drone at highway speeds and their rear bumper covered in soot all the time. these are the types of things a manufacturer needs to factor in when spending millions on R&D. the aftermarket however does not. the people who buy exhaust kits dont mind that theyre going to be louder or more expensive to produce (to an extent), brands dont need to worry about laws since they advertise everything as "not for street use".
Weight doesn't affect speed and I can prove it Drop a 5kg weight and a 10kg weight off the Eiffel tower at the same time and they'll hit the ground at the same time. The same can be applied to cars You just need to race vertically
@@bilalha123 Depends on the surface area of the weight. Terminal velocity is governed by a number of factors. Sorry, I'm a nerd, couldn't resist it. Wonder if that's why I have no friends?
Interior strip, light weight racing seats, and a roll cage are the way forward if you want instant noticeable gains in acceleration and handling. I've not gone the whole 9 yards yet, however, many moons ago I did have a Corsa mk2 1.2i 16v 3 door gutless piece of shit which was totally transformed by removing all the carpet, roof lining, insulation, rear seats, and any unnecessary plastics. All that was left was the dash, front seats, and door panels. I then upgraded the front discs, pads upgraded all round, and put on 17inch rims. I think the tire size was 195/45/17 which were wider and lower profile than standard. What a different it made! First thing I notice was the grip. Because I was use to the handling characteristics of the standard set up I'd find myself turning in too early on corners expecting the car to slide. Scandinavian flick became unnecessary on way tighter corners than before hand. Handling, acceleration, and braking was also significantly improved by the wheel's and weight loss. In a straight line I was obviously getting left for dead by larger engine capacity cars, but on the twisty, bendy UK A and B roads it came to life. It was like driving a Go-kart! Many a 3 series BMW had been left for dead in my rear view on country lanes.
@@Aymoune24 I always crack up when I see stuff like that. Even though they do this sort of stuff at least partially on the intent of impressing gullible girls, what they manage to attract 95% of the time are gullible guys.
in shitty road... it do help since inside tires.. are harder than outside in sport car... and if the road is wavly... the tires still hold on something and traction control do had the car going stringht.. i had the road right in front of my house and i had 2 sports car... normal setting.. it alway pushing me to the side but the negative one don't...
Surely you can't really spoil a Pugly! Says the person with a Fiat Doblo as family car. Which for reasons I cannot fathom came from the factory with a spoiler, because a 95 hp van with seats managing an impressive 0-60 in just over 14 seconds, needs that like, well like a Peugeot needs a giant spoiler. I have done well in the Doblo, so far I haven't been overtaken by anyone using a zimmer frame, it was close but I won.
Bought a used BMW E91, replaced the air intake system and now it has a nice kick when I hit the pedal. Yes, replaced the installed "funny" one with a new *stock* system. Best mod ever.
Engineer: "I've spent decades between undergrad, grad, master and maybe even a doctorate to be able to properly design and build this car, along with my entire team, that went through similar learning efforts, so that this machine works perfectly under its specified conditions." Random Chad: "YeAh, BuT iF i JuSt CuT tHe SpRiNgS..."
well, said "engineers" have fucked up their fair share as well (recalls anyone???) I applaud anyone who "garage/front yard built" an amazing machine that works.
I see your point. And it's true there are kids out there who only want to be seen (and heard). Big shiny rims that cost more then the rest of the car. A loud "sporty" cat-back exhaust that does nothing but making noise. Cars lowered to a point that they need to step out of the car and push it over a bump. But there are also drivers who want their engine run more efficient. To have better handling. And there are professionals, engineers with master degrees, working for companies who have also spent fortunes on design and engineering to deliver just that. Some premium car brands even have "in house" tuners or at least approved tuners because they know those tuners have the know-how to safely increase performance. And there a lot of reasons car manufacturers don't do it straight away. Cost savings are a big one but also because the opposite of what you say. "so that this machine works perfectly under its specified conditions." They don't want it to run perfectly under specified conditions; they want it to run under ALL conditions. From the sahara to siberia. Or from the salt lake plains to high up northern Canada. With regulated high quality fuel but also with some mixture some guy sells in buckets on the side of an African road. Grandma is allowed to torture the clutch and some clueless guy can press the pedal to the metal with a cold engine. It's a whole different story if you can narrow down the parameters. If you know you will always take quality high octane fuel and you live in a region where it rarely gets over 35° or under minus 15°, you don't need that big safety margin.
Oiled air filters are a great idea with a carbureted engine, but as stated here, not so much with electronic induction systems. A favorite mod to save fuel at one time was to jack the back of the car up so you're always driving downhill.
Haha not sure if this a joke, but drag racers lift the rear so the car squats and puts power down better when racing. This is of course coupled with a softer rear suspension and stiffer front.
You could also purchase the tuning software and do it yourself. It's cheaper, but takes more research. It's not dangerous, provided you don't crank the boost up on your 1.2 turbo corsa all the way up to 60 psi thinking it's a GTR 😂. But it does offset that cheapness with time invested into learning and doing it properly. So it's what do you value most. Money or time.
@@annahenrietta9517 that only will work for someone with good technical knowledge. Ability to read min/max settings for engine isn't giving you full proper rundown on how it's going to affect engine and performance in any term. To suggest it to do to someone who can change couple filters and change tires is plain silly
@Keira Metz i do agree with that even though it would take a lot of practice and reaserch but if u learn how to do it u can save a lot of money on future mods and actually get to learn something
Great video. This video should be mandatory part of classes when youre going for your driving license. Its well presented and not boring. And covers the most common blunders :)
Apparently, wrapping your whip Gold makes the most power, particularly in the Middle East... And by middle east, I mean central London during the summer!
He clearly doesn't know what he is explaining because its all wrong. So yes... simple might be the correct way of describing it... he is too simple to understand maybe?!
Spark plugs are also temperature rated. Therefore on a modified engine (cam, ECU tune, bigger injectors etc) will benefit from a cooler rating. Stock spark plugs will cause a loss of performance, increased cylinger temperatures and therefore the risk of detonation, pre igntion and melting the pistons. Running cool plugs on a stock runs the risk of inefficient fuel burn, fouling and piston damage.
I was thinking the same thing. Depending on application you’re going to want hotter or colder plugs. As an example a boosted car will benefit from cooler plugs because of the increase of intake temperature you’ll have a much more safe burn where if you had hotter plugs you risk predetonation
As mentioned plugs depend on application. In a boosted car It’s a good idea to use 98 Ron or higher. For the same reasons, reduced chance of detonation, melted pistons etc. I don’t use anything but 98 Ron in my G40, the supplementary manual recommended 95 RON. What was the standard fuel grade in 1990? It also suffers the cost of platinum Bosch W5DP0 plugs which were specified with the Bosch digifant engine management. These were OEM on Porsche 911 turbo’s and Ferrari’s of similar era, hence the cost of £20 per plug! Associated rich-boy tax slapped on there by Bosch.
@@MikeBarbarossa if it is tuned properly with supporting mods and taken care of i think youll find FBO cars have pretty good reliability, anyway stock is boring
You are so right sir. Iridium or Platinum is mainly used for petrol cars. For LPG cars you need sparks with a higher heat degree so in most cases they use sparks with nickel plated copper elektrodes. So it depends on the type of fuel witch sparks you need. There is also a difference in quality. The higher quality sparks last longer and perform better. In the near future sparks will be operated at very high frequenties witch improves the spark and live span even if they are operated at very low temperatures.
@@PhilbyFavourites Wait, I thought that the 1970s Capris were mainly held together with stickers! Well, actually lots of cars from the 1970s had rust issues.
Case in point. One of my first cars was a Hillman Imp. I tweaked it from it's standard 39bhp to 118bhp. I put 3 degrees of negative camber in the front to eliminate the horrific understeer of the standard car (rear engine, standard setup removes tendency to oversteer by using lots of positive camber on the front. That worked pretty well, though it was a bit prone to snap oversteer on the limit. The high lift cams that were needed back then to get 118bhp from a 998cc NA engine were less successful and removed all of the minimal torque that it had as standard - it needed close to 4000 rpm to pull away on the flat, and more like 6000 rpm to pull away up any sort of a gradient. Being in an uphill traffic jam was frankly embarrassing. Retaining the standard drum brakes wasn't a great idea either - a hard stop from 80mph+ meant that the bakes completely gave out at about 20-30mph and you went sailing past your intended stopping point. Hopefully there was nothing in the way. Fuel economy was appalling. The standard car did 50+ mpg, after mods, it did 25mpg if I was careful, but 8mpg when it was driven hard - not great for a 998cc engine. But hey, it was a lot more entertaining than a standard Imp, and I was a student :-)
One other thing about cone filters - first check where the stock airbox is pulling air from before you attempt to "improve" it, or else you might just be replacing your stock cold-air intake with a hot-air intake. A lot of cars already pull air from outside the vehicle- such as behind the headlight housing - even if you install your cone filter properly, it's still going to pull in warmer air than the stock intake does.
Not always. Modding your car is no different from modding yourself or what you have on/with you. Shoes; They do not always increase your 'performance' or comfort but guess what you buy them as you like them. Probably never curse your wife for those heels she looks so good in either right? Hair colour; How does that make you more efficient? Tattoos. WE, (not me as I don't have any of these on my cars), like what we like. EVERYTHING in life is a compromise. We give away some things with 'real' measurable value to get things that have value that is tangible to us as individuals.
@@TheBlaert The springs still have the same spring rate... just lose a bit of the travel. Results may vary, likely have to replace bump stops more often than stock!
Higher octane helps if your car has a sensor to detect the octane rating. Mercedes Amg cars made for 98 octane but that is just for maximum performance they will detect 95 octane and tune down the boost. I am not sure but I think most performance cars with turbos does this.
That's true for any modern petrol car. It's a relatively cheap thing to do (simple sensor, the rest is software) and there a more benefits than just supporting different fuels. It allows the engine to run with smaller margins and also helps for other things which affect when knock might occur such as temperature, increasing average efficiency.
BMW had that in every (non-Diesel) car in the mid-1990s (maybe earlier). The car's rated power and fuel consumption was for 95 octane. With 98 octane, performance would go up and fuel consumption would go down (but not enough to save you money as the 98 octane fuel is a bit more expensive). In the 1990s, there was also still 91 octane fuel. The BMWs could run on that, too, with less performance and a higher fuel consumption. 91 octane fuel is cheaper (but not enough to save you money as the fuel consumption goes up). 95 octane fuel would give you the best "mileage per dollar". Nowadays, you can get 102 octane fuel. For absolutely ridiculous prices. However, most cars will only recognize octane numbers up to 98, so 102 octane does not give and improved performance or fuel consumption over 98 octane.
Excellent video! Can personally attest to a few of these, I realized my car (tuned f22 230I) handles significantly better on a smaller than stock wheels with a taller sidewall. Especially with slightly deflated (3-5psi) semi-slicks in the rear, and oem spec tires in the front, it can outperform cars with quite a bit more hp just from the better weight transfer and less inhibited acceleration. Would love to see more vids like this, and think it would be awesome if you guys made some tuning/modding suggestion or alternative vids.
The easiest and most noticeable performance mod you can do to your car is a nice set of tyres. You’d be surprised the difference between the usual all weather tyres and sport tyres make on any car, from a dinky Toyota Yaris to a powerful Ford Mustang.
Replacing the back box or adding a 'sports exhaust'😂 is a quick way to reduce your car's power output - it detunes the gas flow which ultimately upsets combustion.
But that actually does increase performance, as does more exhaust pipes, eg: s3 has 4 so the co2 and other stuff can escape easier, that’s the basic explanation.
that is true , actually i removed my air filter in the car and it accelerated quicker , then i put sports air filter and it had the same effect as no filter .. i always come and check up the air filter box just in case i need to clean it , worked fine for the past 2 years , no problems whatsoever
High octane fuel does improve power/efficiency if you car has variable valve timing and anti-knock sensors, and most modern cars do have them. I've seen dyno tests on my 20 year old E46 330'Ci that showed a 3% increase in performance/efficiency between 95 and 98 RON (they were done in Europe, so they didn't have any crappy 91 RON to test like we do here in Australia). So there's definitely no point increasing fuel grade beyond the manufacturer's recommended grade (which is the maximum the engine can take advantage of), but if the minimum grade and recommended grade are different (e.g 91 vs 98 in my case) then you'll get a difference moving between them. Your car is basically de-tuning itself when you use a lower than recommended grade... Also wheels are not just un-sprung mass, they're rotating mass as well, meaning they act as gyroscopes resisting changes in direction. Lower profile tyres don't just increase mass (even with the same total diameter, rubber is generally lighter than alloy, so more rim and less rubber means more weight), they move the mass further out from the center, which increases the gyro effect. There is a reason that race cars usually have high profile tyres - at least until recently where they're increasingly switching to lower profile to "make the cars look more like street cars for marketing purposes", invariably hurting lap times in the process.
@@lordrefrigeratorintercoole288 They good thing of not needing spark plugs (AKA electricity) to run is that diesel engines can run without a battery, it happened to me a few times back in the days (of course you need to push to start it).
The only issue I take with this video is this: Claiming that you can't notice 1-2 HP, is false. If you drive that car all of the time, and you're very comfortable with that car. You will notice. I notice the weight and performance difference in my car with a passenger in the other seat. I notice the performance differences in different brands of gasoline. I notice the difference between old oil and freshly changed oil. I even notice the power differences at different times of the year based on temperature and humidity. The differences are extremely minor in most of these cases, but it's very clearly there Because I drive that car all of the time. If you're paying attention to your car. You will notice when things change.
Am sure others have covered this but the large spring clamps shown on this video are for temporarily compressing a spring to dismantle a combined damper and spring strut. Those used to clamp springs for driving are much smaller and as stated are a bad idea. Worse is cutting a spring to shorten it. Manufacturers spend millions on getting the suspension geometry just right as a useable compromise. Mess with it your peril as ride quality and handling dynamics will be altered. Great video BTW !
Car manufacturers have different width wheels on stock models. I.e. the offset is different. You can add spacers to some degree and stay without the optimal performance range. Think about it.
The octane booster does work in countries that receive low quality fuel, by bringing up the octane levels to what manufacturers actually expected the car to be using
Solid video. I like the fact that you mentioned that yes, you can do some of these mods, provided the mods you make work well together and the car is set up for them.
Most of the mods we do to our street cars are done cause we can, we do this cause we don't collect guns, gamble or lick post stamps. We have a vision of what a cool car is and we express that. We don't care about performance or we are obsessed with it but leaving it stock is never an option to the real car people.
Which in those cases, he added context to it. Like some CAI's AFTER a tune. "Performance chips" vs getting an ECU tuned professionally, negative camber for track usage etc
@@DuBstep115 Alright, lets do the math. A CAI is maybe going to get you a 2% increase in power, so if your car is typically around 170 hp, thats a little over 3hp on a good day. 2% on a 505hp engine is, lemme pull out my Casio fx-115ES, hmmm, 10.1hp. So yeah depending on your car's hp output yes you will gain hp, but again, it's only about 2%.
I agree. Its sort of making out that factory car setups cant be improoved on by the diy tuner. I go the the Nurburgring quite a bit and while some cars are set up by companies, most are done by diy'ers . I do agree with some of what he said though...tbh, if the mod is done badly, EVERY mod is poitless/dangerous
back in the 90's we used to cut the springs with a blow torch to lower our cars. I had a rear spring from a series 1 rx7 bounce past me as I was braking for a corner. totally agree with everything on this list, I tell my sons in there early 20's these same things. But also avoid cold air induction as it rains a lot in new zealand and engines cant compress water, nothing can.
Added K&N air filter, added Eibach lowering spring kit (lowered 1&1/2 inches), switched out to double Iridium spark plugs, went from 16" all weather tires and wheels to 18" tires and wheels, and switch from regular 87 octane to 91 octane and the car performs and handles beautifully. Takeoff is super quick, and fuel efficiency has increased from18 mpg to 22 mpg.
No, it doesn't. It's placebo at best, unless you had it tuned as well (see 13:00). The "improved" fuel mileage you're seeing is diameter change from taller tires which alters gearing, which alters speedometer, hence false mileage of car. Did you even watch the vid? He actually explains why these things are bogus really well.
3 mods that I have on my 540i, 2018 M-Sport bimmer. Bigger intake filter, high flow catted down pipe and a JB4. There is tons of documentation on this partiular mod (for this car) because the B58 is an engine made for much more performance than the whp in stock config. And yes, I do agree with most of your points and everybody should heed his advice.
Say it louder for those at the back Matt! Thank god someone in the community has common sense, too many people thinking they know better than engineers when it comes to modifying their cars.
How about the engineers in different tuning companies, specialized in optimizing the cars after all the compromises car manufacturers have made, due to different sales areas and their different fuel qualities, temperatures, fuel consumption, noise levels, legislation, elevation, and all the other things the manufacturer needs to compromise in their cars due to these reasons... No normal car is optimized from the factory, because no manufacturer can afford it. And therefore there is always room for improvement in normal mass production cars.
What you seem to over look is that a lot of modders know this. (I am not one of those people, my car is bog standard). Let me ask you this; Your wife, (assuming you have one), might wear high heels. They make her look good, nothing else. They cost her money that she doesn't need to spend. They make her more unstable. They damage her feet. Both you and she know this yet you like her in them....................
wings, non-standalone-ecu tunes, higher octane fuel, decats etc can all work, you've mixed wheel sizes and tire width a little as well. What you've done is mostly covered mods that might not work, and entirely aestethic mods. You've also ignored that cars are engineered to compromise between a lot of things, and hence shifting the compromise toward performance can be valid. So the engineer excuse doesn't work
Weight reduction (on an '80's Firebird) - - Remove carpet padding and insulation that's behind interior panels. Remove front bumper from behind bumper skin. Remove door crash beams. Remove whole Air Conditioner system. Re-locate battery to right rear fender (weight bias is like moving the engine back 10 inches) Car is noticeably lighter and steers quicker.
I can agree with everything beside the fuel additive, I can clearly feel the power I get when I add it. In fact, the older the car, the more power it gets from my experience, I drove a Ford Focus 2006, with a 250mm fuel additive the car drove almost 8% faster, shifts where moving far more accurately and economy raised by about 5%. Its a fact, I've checked it out quite few times. However worth noting, that even when economy raise by 5%, the costs still ending up higher per km than actually driving less without paying for the additive which end up costing more. I call it lifestyle, if you cant get your sport car, that's the next best thing.
You will always gain power removing a catalytic converter from a turbocharged engine. If you put higher octane fuel in a boosted engine you will definitely gain significant horsepower. Naturally aspirated cars may actually lose a little bit though.
I actually love a crazy body kit and a flashy, overly molded car - they have their place and can be very cool. But I'll never understand the over the top negative camber look, it just looks silly!
Lot of false information here: 1) "Performance air filter" might add power at low revs. It depends on design. Most of high end sport cars would not benefit from it, most of simplier, less advance ones would. It all depends on both car and filter, proper performance 'intake system' will add performance even without tune, but keep in mind that cone filters require a lot of calculations to optimize them and "universal" ones are waste of time if you cannot fabricate parts yourself. 2) Tires and wheels: you can make your rim size bigger without making your tires wider, you can buy lighter, more expensive rims + most of older cars benefit strongly from using low profile tires due to advancement in tire technology. I agree you should never go for streched tires, oversized wheels etc. 3) "chip box: described as cheap ECU tune/placebo is just wrong. It will never be placebo and most of times it would damage engine due to using too rich fuel mixture, knocking or overheating. There are possible performance gains under 0.5% of power but at cost of heavily damaging engine. 4) AERO - THAT'S JUST WRONG. Spoiler =/= wing. Splitter will always have the same effect of limiting air going underneath, creating front downforce but reducing effectiveness of diffuser. If you have full flat underbody, splitter will not reduce drag, if you don't have flat underbody, splitter/air dam will reduce drag and lift caused by turbulence under the car. Wings... the only way you will produce lift with proper wing is by mounting it upside down. Wings work separately from car's body and they have specified profiles with drag/downforce charts available. Yes, they are increasing drag, but they also produce much downforce. Flat undertray: only pros, reduce noise, drag and lift. SPOILERS: if you mount one correctly and test it, you cat get downforce and reduce drag at the same time. On some sedans with lot of turbulence over trunk you can even reduce drag by mounting almost vertical spoilers. If you want to check does your aero mod work, you can test it easily on the road, you can measure pressures, drag and find separation of airflow with just cheap tools and patience. 5) Catalityc converter: On most of older cars it would actually increase power, especially if your car has forced induction. On NA you will propably lose performance on almost everything semi-modern. But I agree, do not remove them. 6) Suspension geometry: you CAN improve suspension geometry on your own. There's nothing that average human with developed brain couln't understand. Most of road cars that are not expensive, high performance machines have pretty bad geometry to begin with. Why? Because they are using a lot of interchangeable parts that are cheaper to produce. Camber under -2,5 degrees is absolutely fine for road car, you can change springs and dampers separately if you know what you want to achieve with your mods. In the end - most of cars are not designed to be perfect. Suspension, aero (on pre 2010 cars at least), wheels, intakes and cooling are areas in which you can significantly improve your car. Why? Because mainstream consumer rarely even know about issues with these parts and that's where car designers cut corners/use budget parts.
@@trillrifaxegrindor4411 I didn't say that everything is missinformation. I mentioned many mistakes and pointed them out. If you want to correct something, go on, if not, why are you commenting this? Also, while watching video again I've discovered another mistake in the video. Mat said that you use negative camber to reduce angle between wheel and pavement during hard cornering which is bullshit, as you want this angle to deflect tire in direction of "inside" the car. He even used F1 car as an example which is interesting as body roll of F1 car rarely exceeds 1,5° and camber is rarely below -4°. Most of grip does not come with contact area of the wheel but from the way tire deflects.
Adding an M or AMG badge increases performance by 450hp, everyone knows this.
as an M owner , i feel proud whenever revving the engine infront of them quite ‘M’
Recently I noticed, that people started putting RS badges on their non RS Audis, too.
Where will it stop with all the fakeness in the world...
"Go faster" stripes do this too.
Adding M or AMG Badges also removes the optional indicator stalk
@@JJJT- Wait till Toyota makes "GR" a mainstream sports version of their car models, you'll see so much GR badges
"Red paint and stripes increase performance by 50hp" is a known fact
What about red stripes🤔
@@anindz1037 +25hp
A Ferrari sticker works wonders too, or an M badge if you have a BMW.
@@anindz1037 Red brakes with stripes!
@@anindz1037 DZ-Algeria?
Basically, established car manufacturers know more about building / improving cars than your average human.
Priceless information. Thanks for sharing, Mat.
I think of this every time I see an 18 year old kid with a “hot” Honda Civic.
I hope you were being sarcastic
@@MrRea112 car manufacturers probably do know more than someone whos designing an aftermarket part, issue is higher ups tell them to make cars with lower costs, greater wider appeal and greater ease of production and thus are compromised in one aspect or another (in 99.9% of cases). its crazy how people like OP think just because manufacturers throw millions at R&D means youre getting the best performing product possible with no room for improvement
@@RogueCowTurd True. Doesn’t that cynicism make it even more outrageous? The customer is treated like mindless fodder to be fed the cheapest muck at the highest price. There was a time when companies like Mercedes possibly Toyota genuinely believed the customer deserved quality, reliability served with integrity
@@MrRea112 in some cases yeah for sure, minimum viable product is definitely a thing but at the same time regular car brands cant be going out and putting the best performance parts they can design on their production sports cars. for example toyota/bmw cant slap the best flowing titanium exhausts on the supra because any excess cost needs to be passed onto the customer which can make the car uncompetitive financially, they also have to deal with many countries laws so a loud exhaust with no cats will stop it from being able to be sold in some parts of the world and even if we ignore that, the general person who just wants a sporty car doesnt want endless drone at highway speeds and their rear bumper covered in soot all the time.
these are the types of things a manufacturer needs to factor in when spending millions on R&D. the aftermarket however does not. the people who buy exhaust kits dont mind that theyre going to be louder or more expensive to produce (to an extent), brands dont need to worry about laws since they advertise everything as "not for street use".
If you remove a car's engine it saves a lot of weight therefore it is faster!
Downhill cart racing
Weight doesn't affect speed and I can prove it
Drop a 5kg weight and a 10kg weight off the Eiffel tower at the same time and they'll hit the ground at the same time.
The same can be applied to cars
You just need to race vertically
@@bilalha123 If you drop a 5kg and a 10kg weight off the Eiffel tower whoever is down below is in for a big suprise!
@@bilalha123 Depends on the surface area of the weight. Terminal velocity is governed by a number of factors.
Sorry, I'm a nerd, couldn't resist it. Wonder if that's why I have no friends?
Devanarayanan Mittu uhhhhh
A mod that always works: lose 50 lbs and kick out your passengers.
Remove the back seats for a bigger boot while you are at it.
@@WetPig boost*
Austin Silvia no boot
@Itz bubz Look at my comment
Interior strip, light weight racing seats, and a roll cage are the way forward if you want instant noticeable gains in acceleration and handling.
I've not gone the whole 9 yards yet, however, many moons ago I did have a Corsa mk2 1.2i 16v 3 door gutless piece of shit which was totally transformed by removing all the carpet, roof lining, insulation, rear seats, and any unnecessary plastics.
All that was left was the dash, front seats, and door panels.
I then upgraded the front discs, pads upgraded all round, and put on 17inch rims. I think the tire size was 195/45/17 which were wider and lower profile than standard.
What a different it made!
First thing I notice was the grip. Because I was use to the handling characteristics of the standard set up I'd find myself turning in too early on corners expecting the car to slide. Scandinavian flick became unnecessary on way tighter corners than before hand. Handling, acceleration, and braking was also significantly improved by the wheel's and weight loss.
In a straight line I was obviously getting left for dead by larger engine capacity cars, but on the twisty, bendy UK A and B roads it came to life. It was like driving a Go-kart! Many a 3 series BMW had been left for dead in my rear view on country lanes.
My car can hit 200 MPH with a strategically placed speed sticker on the hood.
There you go mate... you strategically reduced the drag from the wind resistance to provider a smoother ride and increase in HP
lol
Mine did the same except I painted Speedy Gonzales in the right spot
Racing stripes make everything faster. EVERYTHING
@@beauxguidry5373 Single blade +20bhp
James May sums it up best with just one word: "STANDARD"
ruclips.net/video/emyLFAgjqwI/видео.html
@@Aymoune24 🤮🤮🤮
But here is mat Watson not James may
Who's james
Stradman?
@@Aymoune24 I always crack up when I see stuff like that. Even though they do this sort of stuff at least partially on the intent of impressing gullible girls, what they manage to attract 95% of the time are gullible guys.
A tuning mod that works: remove all the junk out of the boot, back seats, glove compartment and other pockets.
That’s not a mod my mate that’s just hygiene 😂😂
Fender? Who needs fender? Get rid of it to make your car lighter.
@@HALTHEOO who needs a body shell anyways
Sure but I'm still a fat piece of shit that weights about 4 wheels with alloys and metal dusty's..
Remo Barcellone go for a run
"Do you drive on the left or right side of the road?"
People with wheel spacers: Yes.
LOL XD good one!
Ha! Ha ha!!! In 2001
8:43 No Matt.
We all know a spark plug is a guy who sells sparks in your local neighborhood.
Plug dealer
Nice one
Negative camber on street cars is the dumbest thing I’ve ever seen. It looks horrendous and it ruins your car. Bravo.
I thought underside neon lights were the dumbest thing that could be done to a car until I saw what people do with the camber of their car's wheels...
I have no idea who ever thought it would be a good idea to do that
Japanese do it to stand out, not necessarily to look good.
in shitty road... it do help since inside tires.. are harder than outside in sport car... and if the road is wavly... the tires still hold on something and traction control do had the car going stringht.. i had the road right in front of my house and i had 2 sports car... normal setting.. it alway pushing me to the side but the negative one don't...
I like the looks of it so it isn't stupid
Basically (if you’re after real performance), whip out your cheque book and find a tuner who knows what the hell he’s doing.
My tuner is a badass girl who can probably kick my ass any day of the week and she knows her shit. Get a good tuner and your car will thank you
Pls don’t tell me that putting flames on my car is bad...
Like red brake calipers, it adds more power
Putting out flames on your car is better.
Putting flames on your car would shed a lot of weight😉
Stripes mate u need stripes
No, it adds horsepower
I actually learned something here..
Now I can continue to put a giant spoiler on my Peugeot
Maniac
More power
well, if it is a track car it might give those rear tyres some grip and temperature. But that is a massive might
Surely you can't really spoil a Pugly!
Says the person with a Fiat Doblo as family car. Which for reasons I cannot fathom came from the factory with a spoiler, because a 95 hp van with seats managing an impressive 0-60 in just over 14 seconds, needs that like, well like a Peugeot needs a giant spoiler.
I have done well in the Doblo, so far I haven't been overtaken by anyone using a zimmer frame, it was close but I won.
I saw a Peugeot 107 with about 6-8 visual mods done to it.
Hilarious to look at, performance wise still a 107...
Bought a used BMW E91, replaced the air intake system and now it has a nice kick when I hit the pedal.
Yes, replaced the installed "funny" one with a new *stock* system. Best mod ever.
Engineer: "I've spent decades between undergrad, grad, master and maybe even a doctorate to be able to properly design and build this car, along with my entire team, that went through similar learning efforts, so that this machine works perfectly under its specified conditions."
Random Chad: "YeAh, BuT iF i JuSt CuT tHe SpRiNgS..."
and yet there are too many cars that are atrocious in standard from
lol bmw engineers cant design a car that can run for a year without breaking down
@@viku4 well they can, but they are not allowed to. greed governed planned obsolesence
well, said "engineers" have fucked up their fair share as well (recalls anyone???) I applaud anyone who "garage/front yard built" an amazing machine that works.
I see your point. And it's true there are kids out there who only want to be seen (and heard).
Big shiny rims that cost more then the rest of the car. A loud "sporty" cat-back exhaust that does nothing but making noise.
Cars lowered to a point that they need to step out of the car and push it over a bump.
But there are also drivers who want their engine run more efficient. To have better handling.
And there are professionals, engineers with master degrees, working for companies who have also spent fortunes on design and engineering to deliver just that.
Some premium car brands even have "in house" tuners or at least approved tuners because they know those tuners have the know-how to safely increase performance.
And there a lot of reasons car manufacturers don't do it straight away.
Cost savings are a big one but also because the opposite of what you say.
"so that this machine works perfectly under its specified conditions."
They don't want it to run perfectly under specified conditions; they want it to run under ALL conditions.
From the sahara to siberia. Or from the salt lake plains to high up northern Canada.
With regulated high quality fuel but also with some mixture some guy sells in buckets on the side of an African road.
Grandma is allowed to torture the clutch and some clueless guy can press the pedal to the metal with a cold engine.
It's a whole different story if you can narrow down the parameters.
If you know you will always take quality high octane fuel and you live in a region where it rarely gets over 35° or under minus 15°, you don't need that big safety margin.
The best mod is painting your callipers red
this comment is underrated
gemmille hercules I completely agree
this comment is underrated ( unfortunately )
I heard it adds 100 bhp
Yellow is the new red
Oiled air filters are a great idea with a carbureted engine, but as stated here, not so much with electronic induction systems. A favorite mod to save fuel at one time was to jack the back of the car up so you're always driving downhill.
Haha not sure if this a joke, but drag racers lift the rear so the car squats and puts power down better when racing. This is of course coupled with a softer rear suspension and stiffer front.
@@BigfootUnibrowMan Yes, I know jacking the ass end doesn't make the car run down hill. It's to moon all the cars you just passed.
@@thomrobitaille3942 i wouldn't put it past some people.
Ricers : *ILL TAKE THEM ALL*
Lol
Lol
I’ll take your entire stock
Best mod that works and is cost effective are high quality performance tyres
Driver training is the best mod.
cost effective... your'e giving me those weight reduction racer boy memes flashbacks haha
The best mod is removing the brakes, they slow the car down.
And you lose unsprung weight!
Summary: if you are going to mod the engine, tune the ECU accordingly
Yes, its the best primary upgrade tho it can be quite expensive for certain cars
You could also purchase the tuning software and do it yourself. It's cheaper, but takes more research. It's not dangerous, provided you don't crank the boost up on your 1.2 turbo corsa all the way up to 60 psi thinking it's a GTR 😂. But it does offset that cheapness with time invested into learning and doing it properly. So it's what do you value most. Money or time.
@@annahenrietta9517 that only will work for someone with good technical knowledge. Ability to read min/max settings for engine isn't giving you full proper rundown on how it's going to affect engine and performance in any term. To suggest it to do to someone who can change couple filters and change tires is plain silly
Keira Metz or don’t. Get a proper tune by a company which has a good reputation tuning that particular engines and most importantly a DYNO
@Keira Metz i do agree with that even though it would take a lot of practice and reaserch but if u learn how to do it u can save a lot of money on future mods and actually get to learn something
GM: "We spent $6 billion in R&D last year."
Tuners: "Nah I got this."
supra... just go aftermarket.. we don't want to warrentry that shit...
loool sigh...
yeah, cause tuners are "hip" to the knowledge the factories build with TONS of compromises for the general market. YOU have to build what YOU want.
Gm we will void your warranty
well 1st GM is shit anyway, 2nd, GM makes them to cover multiple scenarios over a long period of time, not everyone cares about that.
Great video. This video should be mandatory part of classes when youre going for your driving license. Its well presented and not boring. And covers the most common blunders :)
Apparently, wrapping your whip Gold makes the most power, particularly in the Middle East... And by middle east, I mean central London during the summer!
Birmingham and Coventry also
youre car will look like youre dumb
Also, calling it a 'whip' reduces power and makes you sound like a total twat.
@@ScienceFollowsTheEvidence and make you look unfunny
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I never usually comment i just liked the way he clearly explained all the effects of each mod in a simple way :)
He clearly doesn't know what he is explaining because its all wrong. So yes... simple might be the correct way of describing it... he is too simple to understand maybe?!
@@jelkehoekstra4082
exactly
Jelke Hoekstra exactly he is a purest obviously
"Racing" alloy wheel nuts/studs save a massive amount of unsprung mass, especially when a wheel goes missing. They do come in pretty colours though.
Ooo I see one of my videos in the background!
A mighty fine video at that. Ive never been interested in fitting 19 inch wheels to a car you daily but so many manufacturers fit them as standard🙄
I noticed that too. Hopefully more Tyre Reviews coming soon! 🙏🏻
I watched it hehe its good.
Sorry for ruining ur 69th like 🤷♂️
I'd seen this and I was looking in the description for credit to you or at least on the image itself. Didn't see that. So I was sad.
Do a video about the best aftermarket mods
Spark plugs are also temperature rated. Therefore on a modified engine (cam, ECU tune, bigger injectors etc) will benefit from a cooler rating. Stock spark plugs will cause a loss of performance, increased cylinger temperatures and therefore the risk of detonation, pre igntion and melting the pistons. Running cool plugs on a stock runs the risk of inefficient fuel burn, fouling and piston damage.
most these mods increase your car's .. unreliability
I was thinking the same thing. Depending on application you’re going to want hotter or colder plugs. As an example a boosted car will benefit from cooler plugs because of the increase of intake temperature you’ll have a much more safe burn where if you had hotter plugs you risk predetonation
As mentioned plugs depend on application. In a boosted car It’s a good idea to use 98 Ron or higher. For the same reasons, reduced chance of detonation, melted pistons etc. I don’t use anything but 98 Ron in my G40, the supplementary manual recommended 95 RON. What was the standard fuel grade in 1990?
It also suffers the cost of platinum Bosch W5DP0 plugs which were specified with the Bosch digifant engine management. These were OEM on Porsche 911 turbo’s and Ferrari’s of similar era, hence the cost of £20 per plug! Associated rich-boy tax slapped on there by Bosch.
@@MikeBarbarossa if it is tuned properly with supporting mods and taken care of i think youll find FBO cars have pretty good reliability, anyway stock is boring
You are so right sir. Iridium or Platinum is mainly used for petrol cars. For LPG cars you need sparks with a higher heat degree so in most cases they use sparks with nickel plated copper elektrodes. So it depends on the type of fuel witch sparks you need. There is also a difference in quality. The higher quality sparks last longer and perform better. In the near future sparks will be operated at very high frequenties witch improves the spark and live span even if they are operated at very low temperatures.
You missed the fact that Stickers add extra 50 horsepower
Hey Potato: I had clip on head rests on my 1974 Capri in 1980. They were cooler than stickers....
What about the racing stripes? They add 50 HP Too
@@Mercilessonion nah thats an easy 250
@tuboludo M power stickers
@@PhilbyFavourites Wait, I thought that the 1970s Capris were mainly held together with stickers!
Well, actually lots of cars from the 1970s had rust issues.
Case in point. One of my first cars was a Hillman Imp. I tweaked it from it's standard 39bhp to 118bhp.
I put 3 degrees of negative camber in the front to eliminate the horrific understeer of the standard car (rear engine, standard setup removes tendency to oversteer by using lots of positive camber on the front. That worked pretty well, though it was a bit prone to snap oversteer on the limit.
The high lift cams that were needed back then to get 118bhp from a 998cc NA engine were less successful and removed all of the minimal torque that it had as standard - it needed close to 4000 rpm to pull away on the flat, and more like 6000 rpm to pull away up any sort of a gradient. Being in an uphill traffic jam was frankly embarrassing.
Retaining the standard drum brakes wasn't a great idea either - a hard stop from 80mph+ meant that the bakes completely gave out at about 20-30mph and you went sailing past your intended stopping point. Hopefully there was nothing in the way.
Fuel economy was appalling. The standard car did 50+ mpg, after mods, it did 25mpg if I was careful, but 8mpg when it was driven hard - not great for a 998cc engine.
But hey, it was a lot more entertaining than a standard Imp, and I was a student :-)
Outrageous!! I'm so old I used to think they were cool.
Exactly, 3 degrees of camber and a whole load of detailed engine mods gave you a result. 30 degrees and an plug in LED does nothing good.
One other thing about cone filters - first check where the stock airbox is pulling air from before you attempt to "improve" it, or else you might just be replacing your stock cold-air intake with a hot-air intake.
A lot of cars already pull air from outside the vehicle- such as behind the headlight housing - even if you install your cone filter properly, it's still going to pull in warmer air than the stock intake does.
Am I the only one who dont really like stance cars??
It triggers my OCD
Stance cars are beyond dumb.. No, you're not the only one.
God no. They look dumb AF.
it a show car not a real car on the road...
Yep.
Well, that‘s quite nice
Quite rice
Quiet guys
Quiet mice
Those camber maniacs... that's one of the most hilarious things I've seen in a while. :D
Yep. Apart from the harmful performance handling effects, that one mod doesn't even make the car look any better, very very very much on the contrary!
People think it looks good too thats the worst part
Aka ricers
The dislikes are from people who does these types of tunings
Of course
Not always. Modding your car is no different from modding yourself or what you have on/with you.
Shoes; They do not always increase your 'performance' or comfort but guess what you buy them as you like them. Probably never curse your wife for those heels she looks so good in either right?
Hair colour; How does that make you more efficient?
Tattoos.
WE, (not me as I don't have any of these on my cars), like what we like. EVERYTHING in life is a compromise. We give away some things with 'real' measurable value to get things that have value that is tangible to us as individuals.
I disliked
It's OBVIOUS that gluing a piece of carbon fibre to your dash board will reduce your car's weight.
Obviously.
Yeah.
@@gottliebdee263 It's very different
I have never in my life heard of someone clamping their springs to lower their car lmao
People do so many stupid things. I'm not surprised that people clamp their springs
Or cut their spring and meet their maker faster
@@kazekai8 That's actually a massively common thing among the reprobates where I live in N.Ireland
@@TheBlaert The springs still have the same spring rate... just lose a bit of the travel. Results may vary, likely have to replace bump stops more often than stock!
@@brianhult3723 not if they're cut dangerously low or heated which is what most of them do over here. Some even remove the springs completely...
You just crushed the hopes and dreams of so many Chad "tuners" out there. Love it!
Why is breaking someone's dreams loving over?
YOU MONSTER!
Bruh
Chad!
Carwow: Makes a video on pointless ricer modifications
Nolan, James and Bladed Angel be like: Hold my beer
Did anyone see donut media's Miata?
James : WATCH OUR BUMPER TO BUMPER AND YOU'LL KNOW
POP UP UP'N DOWN HEADLIGHT'S
but *Bladed* 🤣
Nolan, James and Bladed Angel be like: No need to hold my beer, my car has all the beer holders you can possibly have.
This video was like one of those Drugaddiction intervention shows but for ricers.
1:14 that bend in the rim damaged my soul and ruined my whole day....
1:35 Here a replay of that, it looks like a specialised rim that deforms and reforms on contact. Pretty amazing
Higher octane helps if your car has a sensor to detect the octane rating. Mercedes Amg cars made for 98 octane but that is just for maximum performance they will detect 95 octane and tune down the boost. I am not sure but I think most performance cars with turbos does this.
That's true for any modern petrol car. It's a relatively cheap thing to do (simple sensor, the rest is software) and there a more benefits than just supporting different fuels. It allows the engine to run with smaller margins and also helps for other things which affect when knock might occur such as temperature, increasing average efficiency.
Even my non-turboed S2000 does that. It'll run happily on 95 RON, but is noticeably more responsive on 99.
BMW had that in every (non-Diesel) car in the mid-1990s (maybe earlier). The car's rated power and fuel consumption was for 95 octane. With 98 octane, performance would go up and fuel consumption would go down (but not enough to save you money as the 98 octane fuel is a bit more expensive).
In the 1990s, there was also still 91 octane fuel. The BMWs could run on that, too, with less performance and a higher fuel consumption. 91 octane fuel is cheaper (but not enough to save you money as the fuel consumption goes up). 95 octane fuel would give you the best "mileage per dollar".
Nowadays, you can get 102 octane fuel. For absolutely ridiculous prices. However, most cars will only recognize octane numbers up to 98, so 102 octane does not give and improved performance or fuel consumption over 98 octane.
@@klausstock8020 ,my Saab 9-3 feels more sportier when running on 98ron.
my 1992 opel has shifter between 91 and 95
After explaining what people think of mods
Mat: But it doesn't work like that
Then: You see...
Excellent video! Can personally attest to a few of these, I realized my car (tuned f22 230I) handles significantly better on a smaller than stock wheels with a taller sidewall. Especially with slightly deflated (3-5psi) semi-slicks in the rear, and oem spec tires in the front, it can outperform cars with quite a bit more hp just from the better weight transfer and less inhibited acceleration. Would love to see more vids like this, and think it would be awesome if you guys made some tuning/modding suggestion or alternative vids.
The wheel spacers to bring your tires 4 feet out were my favorite. Then you can actually see your tires while you’re driving.
It makes your car an open-wheeler. And everybody knows that formulas are fast
You look like you've been fixing your car in the desert for the last 5 hours
Hahahah
Dude looks like he just took a giant bandaid off his whole face.
I laughed way to hard at this XD
🤣🤣🤣👍🏽
🤣🤣🤣
The easiest and most noticeable performance mod you can do to your car is a nice set of tyres. You’d be surprised the difference between the usual all weather tyres and sport tyres make on any car, from a dinky Toyota Yaris to a powerful Ford Mustang.
I still can't believe Matt missed putting a huge exhaust system on the back as one 😂
Replacing the back box or adding a 'sports exhaust'😂 is a quick way to reduce your car's power output - it detunes the gas flow which ultimately upsets combustion.
But that actually does increase performance, as does more exhaust pipes, eg: s3 has 4 so the co2 and other stuff can escape easier, that’s the basic explanation.
MiataBRG no it doesn’t, a sports exhaust is for mostly noise, as it has the valves for it. Doesn’t reduce anything
@@Tooslow24 Reduces weight
@@Tooslow24 I don't know if /s or not but if not, research back pressure and scavenging
The performance air filters don’t filter as well either.
that is true , actually i removed my air filter in the car and it accelerated quicker , then i put sports air filter and it had the same effect as no filter .. i always come and check up the air filter box just in case i need to clean it , worked fine for the past 2 years , no problems whatsoever
@@TheTrooperMB It is disturbing that the oil on the filters can screw with the MAS!
@@ddd228 use brake cleaner , i don't use that specific oil they put on it tho
High octane fuel does improve power/efficiency if you car has variable valve timing and anti-knock sensors, and most modern cars do have them. I've seen dyno tests on my 20 year old E46 330'Ci that showed a 3% increase in performance/efficiency between 95 and 98 RON (they were done in Europe, so they didn't have any crappy 91 RON to test like we do here in Australia).
So there's definitely no point increasing fuel grade beyond the manufacturer's recommended grade (which is the maximum the engine can take advantage of), but if the minimum grade and recommended grade are different (e.g 91 vs 98 in my case) then you'll get a difference moving between them. Your car is basically de-tuning itself when you use a lower than recommended grade...
Also wheels are not just un-sprung mass, they're rotating mass as well, meaning they act as gyroscopes resisting changes in direction. Lower profile tyres don't just increase mass (even with the same total diameter, rubber is generally lighter than alloy, so more rim and less rubber means more weight), they move the mass further out from the center, which increases the gyro effect. There is a reason that race cars usually have high profile tyres - at least until recently where they're increasingly switching to lower profile to "make the cars look more like street cars for marketing purposes", invariably hurting lap times in the process.
What if someone says installing spark plugs to a diesel increases power
And the guy believes it
it works tho, when you start the engine it gives you 1000hp and 5000nm at idle
The lack of likes and comments on this reply makes me think people believe diesel engines actualy need sparkplugs.
@@lordrefrigeratorintercoole288 😂😂😂
@@lordrefrigeratorintercoole288 then those people didn't even understand the whole video in the first place
@@lordrefrigeratorintercoole288 They good thing of not needing spark plugs (AKA electricity) to run is that diesel engines can run without a battery, it happened to me a few times back in the days (of course you need to push to start it).
3:22 Mat really should have you James from Donut Media when saying more power.
Mo' power, bebe!!!
Its
Moh Pawa Babe
MOH POWA BABE!
5:05 is actually a clip taken from the intake video of the Money Pit series on Donut haha
I always enjoy Mat's videos. So much common sense and practical information.
You're wrong.
I once stanced my car and it looked great and speared off into the bush a lot faster than any of my crew were.
@@tigerpjm no body Cares to know 💀
@@MR_stone69
The c**t that deleted his comment cared.
Hi Matt, its important to mention that, on turbo charged engines a decat or down pipe does give you a few extra HPs.
Carwow: Points at wheels with the text "don't!"
okay, **proceeds to remove wheels**
Lol 😂
69 likes
The only issue I take with this video is this: Claiming that you can't notice 1-2 HP, is false. If you drive that car all of the time, and you're very comfortable with that car. You will notice. I notice the weight and performance difference in my car with a passenger in the other seat. I notice the performance differences in different brands of gasoline. I notice the difference between old oil and freshly changed oil. I even notice the power differences at different times of the year based on temperature and humidity. The differences are extremely minor in most of these cases, but it's very clearly there Because I drive that car all of the time. If you're paying attention to your car. You will notice when things change.
*ricers left the chat*
Grammar has left the chat
i'm still over here laughing at the Coke and Mentos powered Honda
More like soda-and-candy-lubricated Civic
Am sure others have covered this but the large spring clamps shown on this video are for temporarily compressing a spring to dismantle a combined damper and spring strut. Those used to clamp springs for driving are much smaller and as stated are a bad idea. Worse is cutting a spring to shorten it. Manufacturers spend millions on getting the suspension geometry just right as a useable compromise. Mess with it your peril as ride quality and handling dynamics will be altered. Great video BTW !
Congratulations, one of the best Carwow videos !!
We want more like this.
It's stupid that there is 171 comments and 161 are saying 'I am first'...
🤣
😂😂😂😂
World's greatest achievement
162 because you said I am first at the end
I am first
I fitted a ring magnet around my fuel pipe and I got much more power and economy in my mind.
Car manufacturers have different width wheels on stock models. I.e. the offset is different. You can add spacers to some degree and stay without the optimal performance range. Think about it.
Don't carry a spare, that will make your car faster and safe some fuel. But don't get a flat or you won't go anywhere at all.
The octane booster does work in countries that receive low quality fuel, by bringing up the octane levels to what manufacturers actually expected the car to be using
The man has a Porsche. I believe he sad it at least 27 times.
And he said it WRONG every single time.
We won the war. He said it right.
Does he?? I must have dozed off 27 times. Curse this pesky narcolepsy
@@LachlanD1213
HE SAID IT WAS A BAD IDEA, YOU TW@T.
@@NaeMuckle yall won the war and havent done anything significantly ever since so shut up and say porsche correctly
Solid video. I like the fact that you mentioned that yes, you can do some of these mods, provided the mods you make work well together and the car is set up for them.
Most of the mods we do to our street cars are done cause we can, we do this cause we don't collect guns, gamble or lick post stamps. We have a vision of what a cool car is and we express that. We don't care about performance or we are obsessed with it but leaving it stock is never an option to the real car people.
Theres so many half-truths in there. Alot of these are very valid mods under the right circumstances.
Which in those cases, he added context to it. Like some CAI's AFTER a tune. "Performance chips" vs getting an ECU tuned professionally, negative camber for track usage etc
@@junkiexl86 I have seen CAI to increase power almost 12whp on C6 Z06 without a tune. Depending on car you may gain alot more than 1-2hp.
@@DuBstep115 Alright, lets do the math. A CAI is maybe going to get you a 2% increase in power, so if your car is typically around 170 hp, thats a little over 3hp on a good day. 2% on a 505hp engine is, lemme pull out my Casio fx-115ES, hmmm, 10.1hp. So yeah depending on your car's hp output yes you will gain hp, but again, it's only about 2%.
@@Jimhbs85ohyeah 12whp is almost 15hp and 15 from 505 is ~3%. Huge gains for high performance NA car for almost no cost.
I agree. Its sort of making out that factory car setups cant be improoved on by the diy tuner. I go the the Nurburgring quite a bit and while some cars are set up by companies, most are done by diy'ers . I do agree with some of what he said though...tbh, if the mod is done badly, EVERY mod is poitless/dangerous
Who else loves watching carwow
Me
Sorry we r blind. We came here only to check our internet connection
@@asjal8340 lol
Bot
🙋🏻♂️
You don't increase the car's ride height with larger wheels if tire's total diameter doesn't change. You just can't get the same ratio tires.
All the Ricers looking at this are going mad right now
Asking Carwow to make a video on the facelifted 5 series and M5 attempt 2.
I won’t stop.
back in the 90's we used to cut the springs with a blow torch to lower our cars. I had a rear spring from a series 1 rx7 bounce past me as I was braking for a corner. totally agree with everything on this list, I tell my sons in there early 20's these same things. But also avoid cold air induction as it rains a lot in new zealand and engines cant compress water, nothing can.
I remember those days! Cutting the springs, it was ridiculous!
I drive with no lights on ,less drag on the alternator, even at night!
Umm, there are electric superchargers that actually work as seen on the RUclips channel - Cleetus McFarland
Even so, it isn't so straightforward as most electric forced induction. A lot of study is necessary.
Only with ECU tuning, for a short burst, and it does not use the 12v system directly for power, it has its own battery pack.
@@GoldenCroc Yes all correct, but this carwow video shows torqamp, which actually is the one that works!
@@dbclass4075 You're missing the point, carwow showed torqamp on the video. Well guess what, torqamp actually works
@@geraldsitorus Perhaps they intended to illustrate those cheap products that don't work, but picked the wrong item in the process?
My car goes faster with the windows up, Air-conditioning off and correct tyre pressures. Amazing tune that works.
Humble brag... “like my Porsche” bless
which looks like shit
Porsche more like a rare parts car good luck maintaining this shit
@@ironbird72 Not everyone can drive an old Dodge like you, Al.
Added K&N air filter, added Eibach lowering spring kit (lowered 1&1/2 inches), switched out to double Iridium spark plugs, went from 16" all weather tires and wheels to 18" tires and wheels, and switch from regular 87 octane to 91 octane and the car performs and handles beautifully. Takeoff is super quick, and fuel efficiency has increased from18 mpg to 22 mpg.
No, it doesn't. It's placebo at best, unless you had it tuned as well (see 13:00). The "improved" fuel mileage you're seeing is diameter change from taller tires which alters gearing, which alters speedometer, hence false mileage of car. Did you even watch the vid? He actually explains why these things are bogus really well.
Interesting video. 50% fact, 50% twaddle.
This guy must be fun at parties! 😂
The vids are great keep up the good work, love watching the vids I even go back to rewatch them lol
3 mods that I have on my 540i, 2018 M-Sport bimmer. Bigger intake filter, high flow catted down pipe and a JB4. There is tons of documentation on this partiular mod (for this car) because the B58 is an engine made for much more performance than the whp in stock config. And yes, I do agree with most of your points and everybody should heed his advice.
At 13:17 I laughed out loud. That made my day. What is the name of that RUclips video with the excessive number of spacers?
Whistling Diesel
Say it louder for those at the back Matt! Thank god someone in the community has common sense, too many people thinking they know better than engineers when it comes to modifying their cars.
How about the engineers in different tuning companies, specialized in optimizing the cars after all the compromises car manufacturers have made, due to different sales areas and their different fuel qualities, temperatures, fuel consumption, noise levels, legislation, elevation, and all the other things the manufacturer needs to compromise in their cars due to these reasons... No normal car is optimized from the factory, because no manufacturer can afford it. And therefore there is always room for improvement in normal mass production cars.
What you seem to over look is that a lot of modders know this. (I am not one of those people, my car is bog standard). Let me ask you this;
Your wife, (assuming you have one), might wear high heels. They make her look good, nothing else.
They cost her money that she doesn't need to spend.
They make her more unstable.
They damage her feet.
Both you and she know this yet you like her in them....................
wings, non-standalone-ecu tunes, higher octane fuel, decats etc can all work, you've mixed wheel sizes and tire width a little as well.
What you've done is mostly covered mods that might not work, and entirely aestethic mods. You've also ignored that cars are engineered to compromise between a lot of things, and hence shifting the compromise toward performance can be valid. So the engineer excuse doesn't work
Almost every honda civic I see is riced
The new ones are riced from the factory
some part do work in race track with clean air but if you in a traffic jam.. you just a ricer..
@@cosmins3268 I am taking about the old one
Got a beautiful 97' civic. No mods, completely stock. Just taking care off
FD2 is still the best looking civic.
Every single time he says "more power", my inner James shout "BABE!!!"
mo powa baby
Weight reduction (on an '80's Firebird) - - Remove carpet padding and insulation that's behind interior panels.
Remove front bumper from behind bumper skin. Remove door crash beams. Remove whole Air Conditioner system.
Re-locate battery to right rear fender (weight bias is like moving the engine back 10 inches)
Car is noticeably lighter and steers quicker.
It scares me that there might be people out there right now with driver's licenses who didn't already know all of this.
Why would that scare you? This knowledge is totally irrelevant to the average driver. They aren't trying to mod their vehicle anyways.
Well..... That car in that thumbnail itself is kinda pointless....
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Time Attack Supra - only goes to car shows, owner mostly goes insecure if theres a spot of dirt on it
Not a fan of German cars?
No but for new gen YES, i hate technology in a car
I can agree with everything beside the fuel additive, I can clearly feel the power I get when I add it.
In fact, the older the car, the more power it gets from my experience, I drove a Ford Focus 2006, with a 250mm fuel additive the car drove almost 8% faster, shifts where moving far more accurately and economy raised by about 5%.
Its a fact, I've checked it out quite few times.
However worth noting, that even when economy raise by 5%, the costs still ending up higher per km than actually driving less without paying for the additive which end up costing more.
I call it lifestyle, if you cant get your sport car, that's the next best thing.
Ima be honest, they might worsen the car’s performance but * SOME * of them do look damn good
So why doing it the wrong way if there is a correct one? Instead of putting spacers what you need to change are the wheel bearings for instance.
@@PierreColombo900 Lots of race cars and Pro 1 FD cars use spacers.
@@FZ6Lucas Then I could just quote Matt to answer you mate.
Yeah - I love 45-50 degrees of -ve camber - but only on the rear
Which one?
You will always gain power removing a catalytic converter from a turbocharged engine.
If you put higher octane fuel in a boosted engine you will definitely gain significant horsepower.
Naturally aspirated cars may actually lose a little bit though.
Illegal.
I actually love a crazy body kit and a flashy, overly molded car - they have their place and can be very cool.
But I'll never understand the over the top negative camber look, it just looks silly!
Lot of false information here:
1) "Performance air filter" might add power at low revs. It depends on design. Most of high end sport cars would not benefit from it, most of simplier, less advance ones would. It all depends on both car and filter, proper performance 'intake system' will add performance even without tune, but keep in mind that cone filters require a lot of calculations to optimize them and "universal" ones are waste of time if you cannot fabricate parts yourself.
2) Tires and wheels: you can make your rim size bigger without making your tires wider, you can buy lighter, more expensive rims + most of older cars benefit strongly from using low profile tires due to advancement in tire technology. I agree you should never go for streched tires, oversized wheels etc.
3) "chip box: described as cheap ECU tune/placebo is just wrong. It will never be placebo and most of times it would damage engine due to using too rich fuel mixture, knocking or overheating. There are possible performance gains under 0.5% of power but at cost of heavily damaging engine.
4) AERO - THAT'S JUST WRONG. Spoiler =/= wing. Splitter will always have the same effect of limiting air going underneath, creating front downforce but reducing effectiveness of diffuser. If you have full flat underbody, splitter will not reduce drag, if you don't have flat underbody, splitter/air dam will reduce drag and lift caused by turbulence under the car. Wings... the only way you will produce lift with proper wing is by mounting it upside down. Wings work separately from car's body and they have specified profiles with drag/downforce charts available. Yes, they are increasing drag, but they also produce much downforce. Flat undertray: only pros, reduce noise, drag and lift. SPOILERS: if you mount one correctly and test it, you cat get downforce and reduce drag at the same time. On some sedans with lot of turbulence over trunk you can even reduce drag by mounting almost vertical spoilers. If you want to check does your aero mod work, you can test it easily on the road, you can measure pressures, drag and find separation of airflow with just cheap tools and patience.
5) Catalityc converter: On most of older cars it would actually increase power, especially if your car has forced induction. On NA you will propably lose performance on almost everything semi-modern. But I agree, do not remove them.
6) Suspension geometry: you CAN improve suspension geometry on your own. There's nothing that average human with developed brain couln't understand. Most of road cars that are not expensive, high performance machines have pretty bad geometry to begin with. Why? Because they are using a lot of interchangeable parts that are cheaper to produce. Camber under -2,5 degrees is absolutely fine for road car, you can change springs and dampers separately if you know what you want to achieve with your mods.
In the end - most of cars are not designed to be perfect. Suspension, aero (on pre 2010 cars at least), wheels, intakes and cooling are areas in which you can significantly improve your car. Why? Because mainstream consumer rarely even know about issues with these parts and that's where car designers cut corners/use budget parts.
@@whatsup8464 ?
not really,most if not all is spot on
@@trillrifaxegrindor4411 I didn't say that everything is missinformation. I mentioned many mistakes and pointed them out. If you want to correct something, go on, if not, why are you commenting this?
Also, while watching video again I've discovered another mistake in the video. Mat said that you use negative camber to reduce angle between wheel and pavement during hard cornering which is bullshit, as you want this angle to deflect tire in direction of "inside" the car. He even used F1 car as an example which is interesting as body roll of F1 car rarely exceeds 1,5° and camber is rarely below -4°. Most of grip does not come with contact area of the wheel but from the way tire deflects.
*Carwow is the best !* *Who else like them ?*
🙋🏻♂️
carwow oh my god thx so much !
This is one of the most informative channels i have subscribed to.
Dr. Najeeb Ullah Qadir 👍🏻yep
This is the best video I have ever seen regarding car mods. I hope everyone who is into cars watches this.
5:32
If you're thinking bout fitting performance Air filter, you may get few hopespower
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