I didn't think I'd learn anything in this video until you got to the bit about lenses without aperture rings! You're kicking butt with your channel Chris, and I love the warm presence you have on camera - it's harder than people think!
Top tip. When in Aperture Priority Mode, half pressing the shutter and adjusting the aperture ring pretty much does the Preview Depth of Field thing. I find the Preview DoF a wasted feature as a toggle button, really it should be an 'On' or 'Off' menu item. I can't think of many instances where you'd want it off for one shot and on for the next etc.
While I think I know enough about aperture rings in terms of general photography, I honestly click on all of your videos because hey it's Chris...Every time I do that, I learn about one little Fuji setting I didn't know about. Every time. Thank you! - Alberto
THanks for another great video, useful to both the less and more experienced photographers. I always take something aways from your videos. Love your style and those cookies.......
I use the command dial technique you demonstrated and that works well. The front command dial I set for aperture and ISO; the rear command dial for shutter speed. One note, push in the front command dial button to change between aperture and ISO. The EVF will show which setting is being selected with a half circle (representing the command dial) over its icon.
I like how you explain the opposite relationship between F - stop and apature opening. Because it was so confusing at times, I started thinking of it in a different manner: The larger the F-stop the larger the DOF and the smaller the F-stop (let's say f1.4) the smaller the DOF.
You have definitely EARNED your subscribers. I've been around photography for a very long time and I don't mind admiting that I've learned a few things, specifically for Fujifilm cameras from your videos. That being said, I'm all for you taking as long as you need to put things in perspective. You truly are a very valuable resource in my photography journey.
What I liked is you explained how and when to use something. Whereas the manual just tells you what something does but necessarily how you would use it.
Great video! Maybe things have changed in newer cameras, but my X-T20 shows a DoF preview upon pressing the shutter button halfway, so I don't need to assign a new button to do that
Same with me, I’ve never thought about a dedicated DOF preview button because half-pressing the shutter intuitively serves that function for me. Of course it *also* previews the exposure at the same time, but I don’t anticipate any need to separate those functions (though some might).
One thing that I found works well on beginners when it comes to the aperture is to think with depth of field. the bigger the f number is, the larger the depth of field is going to be, and vice versa. No more backwards psychology. Also, your explanation of the aperture (with the cookie) is correct, however it can be a bit confusing for a lot of people. See, the amount of light the hits the sensor is correlated to the area of the lens that isn't blocked off by the diaphragm. Area means it's not a linear function, it's a square function. Your explanation leads to believe that it's a linear one (i.e. f/4 is half the light compared to f/2, same with f/8 and f/4) while in fact, since it's a square function, it's not half, but a fourth ! This is why weird values like f/2.8, f/5.6 exists : those are the value that are actually half the light ! f/2.8 is half the light of f/2, f/5.6 is half the light of f/4, and f/11 is half the light of f/8.
Thank yiu for all your great videos tutorials 👍👏 …..My way to remember is …..The smaller the F stop number the smaller the depth of field ….. the larger the F stop number the larger the depth of field.
It’s good that you talked about the f# as a fraction; not enough people do this. Technically, it is a focal ratio, which is f# = f/a = (focal length)/(aperture diameter). So the aperture is actually “a” and can be expressed in mm. The aperture “a”should always be written as “f/1.2”, for example; therefore, 56mm lens / 1.2 focal ratio equals 46.7mm aperture. People don’t seem to care about the aperture in terms of diameter. Why? Because the exposure is a function of the focal ratio and not the actual diameter. However, with respect to out-of-focus backgrounds, the actual aperture diameter is more relevant. Most tutorials will say the DOF (or even the background blur) is a function of focal ratio, focal length, camera-to-subject distance, and subject-to-background distance. You will notice the first two items on that list are focal ratio and focal length. But they can be combined into just one item - aperture diameter. As a test, shoot a subject with the 56/1.2 lens at f/1.2. Then shoot the same subject with the 55-200mm zoom at 200mm with f/4.8. Note that 200/4.8 = 41.7mm aperture diameter. When comparing the two images, you will notice that background objects have very different blur when you crop in and look at the object in the background. But due to the difference in “compression” between the 56 and 200mm focal lengths, when you look at the overall impression of background blur when viewing the entire image, you will see similar background “blurry-ness”. Therefore, aperture diameter is a good way to compare a lens’s relative ability to blur a background. I actually make a graph of my lenses with focal length on x-axis in log-scale, and focal ratio on y-axis in linear scale. But I also add diagonal grid lines for aperture diameter so it is easy to see each lens’s relative ability to blur the background. I wish I could paste that graph (in GIF or JPG format) to these comments. It is a nice way to show your lens collection and it’s “coverage” to other photographers. (Rather than using MS Excel, I actually draw this graph in Visio to make it look nicer and for it to have more common focal lengths on the X-axis.). Anyway, that was pretty long. Just thought you might enjoy seeing someone else totally geek out on this subject. LOL. Have a nice day!
Aperture diameter is also useful in discussing lens-equivalency across sensor-size formats. For example, let’s say I use the 56/1.2 on APS (at ISO160 let’s say). The crop factor is 1.5 for full-frame equivalency. So 56*1.5 = 84mm equivalent. But to get same background blur, we need same aperture diameter. So, 56/1.2 = 46.7mm diameter. On full frame, that will be 84/1.8 = 46.7mm diameter. For exposure, full frame will use ISO320 to get the same result. Then, we can ask if APS yields smaller lenses. Well, both these lenses (56/1.2 and 84/1.8) have identical optical diameter, but the full-frame lens is 1.5x longer, optically. For the most part, “optical” size translates into “physical size” for similar lens designs. And then there is of course some space needed for focus motors and OIS. But fundamentally, the APS lens-size advantage manifests only in the lens length.
Explains a lot. I recently had a problem where the dials were not working but did not know which setting I had changed to cause this. I eventually used reset and redid my settings.
Hello from New Zealand! That was gold, thank you! I had been ready to chuck my XC lens out because I didn't know how to adjust the aperture, thank you!! One quick question, I use the front command dial to adjust my SS using the "T" setting, how can I assign my rear command dial to adjust aperture when using my XC lens? I see that the SS is automatically assigned to the rear if I change the front dial to aperture, but that means unlearning to adjust SS with the front command dial. Can I swap them around?? Help!
This awesome customization in the settings allowed me to continue using my XC60mm F2.4 when the physical aperture ring stopped working for the widest settings like 2.4, 2.8 etc and would force the lens to shoot at 5.6 or higher. By simply setting the lens to A and controlling aperture with the front dial I’m able to use it as if nothing is wrong.
Cheers for the video. I’m a beginner to photography so know next to nothing. One thing does puzzle me more than anything, how can a photographer quickly make all these adjustments to set up a shot in situations where time is crucial? Ie a nature shot? I imagine hearing a few clicks and the bird would have flown away? Does the photographer have to know what type of shot they want before pressing the button? Cheers for the content pat2tech. 👍🏻
How did I not know about the depth of field preview feature? After searching the PDF I find it's hidden away on page 65 of the XT-4 manual. Thanks, Chris!
Your videos on the features of Fujifilm system cameras have been very helpful. I got into photography early this year through toy film cameras all the way through to my Pentax ME Super (mostly in aperture priority, I'm still learning) and I'm having boatloads of fun, but film costs a lot lmao. I had a Sony NEX-F3 but I haaaaated it. It was all menu diving all the time, no viewfinder, I felt like I was using my phone. DSLRs don't do it either because they're huge af (doesn't help that my two SLRs are the ME Super and the Auto 110 so my idea of comfortable camera size is extremely skewed lol) and I still end up having to menu dive. The Fuji system seems to be the only digital system without a PASM wheel. My question(s) for you is, have you ever shot film? If so, how does that compare to shooting on Fuji with all the manual controls and viewfinder? Once you have stuff customized and whatnot, does it feel comparable to using a film SLR? If so, is there a relatively affordable used camera model you recommend that has a viewfinder? Maximum image size is not a factor for me, just ergonomics, controls, and speed. I'm considering the XT100, which does have PASM but also can set the two command dials to shutter and aperture. Since I'm coming from a film background, ISO setting being at my fingertips isn't a priority.
Hi, can you make a tutorial how to avoid flickering light in videography tried my XT3 shoot use 180 Shutter rule in indoor basketball ball when in post my video had flickering light please teach us how to avoid it specially using a fujifilm camera. Thank you
My X-T3 only needs the Shutter dial (regardless of the ISO dial) to be in auto to lose the aperture preview. Wow a strange quirk! However, when set to video, the aperture preview is always there even if both of either ISO and Shutter are on auto.
I never knew the DoF preview was always on in manual mode. I did notice that the DoF used for the LCD / EVF preview depends on the amount of available sunlight: in very bright light, a narrower aperture is used even when selecting a wide open aperture.
It's something that got me super lost when I switched from Sony to Fujifilm. In sony a6000 at least, DoF preview is always on. So I thought that something was wrong with my Fuji camera in manual, for not changing the Aperture until I half pressed the shutter. Glad to have found this channel back then to learn it proper :)
Hey Chris! Quick question - I have the Viltrox 85mm for my XT-4, but when I have Focus on Manuel and turn the focus ring on the lens, it's soooooooo slow. I have to do like 20 full turns of the focus wheel to go from Close Focus to Infinity. Any hidden setting to change speed that up?
That lens is focus-by-wire type, a long one at that (some reviewers said 270°-300°~ish focus throw). Even with marker, depend on how fast you turning it, the focus point will never be same. It is what it is.
Nice video :) question: what if the lens have variable aperture when zooming? So If I pick f4 (let’s say 24mm) and then I zoom in to 80mm (so the aperture goes to 5.6, but physically it’s f4 on the lens) and then I want to go back to 24mm, the aperture also will go back to f4? Thanks a mill dude :)
Hi there, I really like your videos, nevertheless one thing puzzles me: why haven't you spoken of Airy phenomenon yet (as far as I know). It would explain you subscribers to understand the more megapixel does not mean the best shot, especially at low apertures. If you could please make a specific video on this topic it'd be great. Thanks again 4 ur videos.
my fujifilm xs20 doesn't have the "APERTURE RING SETTING (A)" menu item. how do I disable the aperture ring? The ring on my 16-80 F4 is constantly rubbing against something when on the move and getting set to an aperture I don't want to use.
I have a question...maybe for another Fast Friday. You know the S, C, and M toggle button on the front of the older Fuji cameras, like the Xpro 2 and I think the X-T ranges too. Do you have to turn it to M when you put a manual lens on? I always forget about it.
Hi mate, the dial isn't just on the old cameras, they are on the new cameras, though they have unfortunately dropped the dial on some smaller model(s) that use to have it. That's a major dial, for auto focus, Stationary (Still), Continuous, or not auto focus -- Manual. I don't have a manual focus lens for my Fujifilm camera to know, but I can only assume it won't matter, as the camera won't be able to focus, and it will know it's not an auto focus lens. If you're not getting a red !AF box coming up on a half shutter press, then it shows it doesn't matter, I would assume.
You mean there are actually lenses that don't have an aperture ring? WHAT?! LOL!! 🙂 Actually, there is also the vintage lens issue where you need to set the focal length of the lens in the camera settings and enable shooting without lens. But, I'm sure you've already covered that one!! Have a great weekend!
The entire photographic triangle bamboozles me lol. I have no idea which is more important. The ISO, f stop… the joys of learning I guess lol. Maybe I should leave everything in automatic and see what happens for now?…
I put that down to a failure to Fujifilm. It wouldn't take much to include a few key explanation pages in every camera model's manual. It's also hard if your model doesn't have separate dedicated marked dials for easy access.
You know some pros use full auto too so don’t feel bad about that. If you’re bamboozled, this is how I would explain the triangle to a beginner. What’s most important is the creative affect you’re after, compromised by the lighting for the desired exposure. SHUTTER Firstly you could start with the Shutter Dial. You want the dial at its slowest that will give a sharp picture. If light is plentiful, make it faster. But sometimes you want a slower shutter for a natural motion blur, like rain streaks, or other blur effects. Brighter > Darker Blur Affect > Sharpness APERTURE Second, you could choose the aperture, to choose if you want dreamy subject isolation, or to have more depth in your picture for a deeper scene, that is, how deep is the area in focus. Brighter > Darker Thinner > Deeper ISO After the above, you would set the ISO for the correct exposure. Many leave the ISO to Auto as it’s a non-creative mundane setting that the camera can do quickly. Funnily, in film days, ISO is the first choice as it will be the film that’s put in the camera. Some won't go above an upper limit, and work around that. Darker > Brighter Cleaner > Noisy/Grain Affect Higher Dynamic Range > Lower Dynamic Range Where light is limited, you’ll have to make compromises. If a flash is not applicable, usually, the aperture is opened, then a higher ISO where more grain has to be accepted. The shutter has to be fast enough to avoid unwanted blur, but some blur may be more acceptable to overall grain. Still photography to movement/action will give a different approach. Sometimes it’s not an exposure triangle, it could be an exposure square if you use filters!
@@Paul_Rohde Don't agree. If you are really into photography, or learning. why would you expect a camera manufacturer to include the 'basics' in their manual.
If you went to this much trouble to clear the fuzz about f stops and their relationship to diabetes, I can forsee you hiring Professor Irwin Corey and the Rockettes to explain the Circle of Confusion...
“F8 never tasted so good…” Lol. What a great and unforgettable way to explain aperture settings.
Just when I think I probably don't need to watch a specific video, I do and I always learn something new! You are the best, Chris.
Thanks John!! 🙏
I agree with John. Fun & educational
CHRIS thank you so much! I was wondering why I would get that noise in my lens and it wouldn’t adjust, you’re the best!
I didn't think I'd learn anything in this video until you got to the bit about lenses without aperture rings! You're kicking butt with your channel Chris, and I love the warm presence you have on camera - it's harder than people think!
Top tip. When in Aperture Priority Mode, half pressing the shutter and adjusting the aperture ring pretty much does the Preview Depth of Field thing. I find the Preview DoF a wasted feature as a toggle button, really it should be an 'On' or 'Off' menu item. I can't think of many instances where you'd want it off for one shot and on for the next etc.
Best Teacher and superb Demonstrator award in Fujifilm world is for you!!
love from india😊
While I think I know enough about aperture rings in terms of general photography, I honestly click on all of your videos because hey it's Chris...Every time I do that, I learn about one little Fuji setting I didn't know about. Every time. Thank you! - Alberto
Thank You Chris! Have a great weekend!!! Cheers
Chris, your humble manner & demeanour is unique & appreciated
Again learned so many things I thought I would already know
THanks for another great video, useful to both the less and more experienced photographers. I always take something aways from your videos. Love your style and those cookies.......
I use the command dial technique you demonstrated and that works well. The front command dial I set for aperture and ISO; the rear command dial for shutter speed. One note, push in the front command dial button to change between aperture and ISO. The EVF will show which setting is being selected with a half circle (representing the command dial) over its icon.
I like how you explain the opposite relationship between F - stop and apature opening. Because it was so confusing at times, I started thinking of it in a different manner:
The larger the F-stop the larger the DOF and the smaller the F-stop (let's say f1.4) the smaller the DOF.
You have definitely EARNED your subscribers. I've been around photography for a very long time and I don't mind admiting that I've learned a few things, specifically for Fujifilm cameras from your videos. That being said, I'm all for you taking as long as you need to put things in perspective. You truly are a very valuable resource in my photography journey.
Thank you, I am one of your followers from Morocco 🇲🇦
What I liked is you explained how and when to use something. Whereas the manual just tells you what something does but necessarily how you would use it.
You are helping fuji fans for getting close with fuji ecosystem further. Thanks Machaa...
That was again the best on Friday afternoon for me. Perfect, and thank you so much for that.
Great video! Maybe things have changed in newer cameras, but my X-T20 shows a DoF preview upon pressing the shutter button halfway, so I don't need to assign a new button to do that
The same T3 and H1
Same with me, I’ve never thought about a dedicated DOF preview button because half-pressing the shutter intuitively serves that function for me. Of course it *also* previews the exposure at the same time, but I don’t anticipate any need to separate those functions (though some might).
I also have the X-T20 and XT-2. Seems like Fuji's innovations with newr cameras maybe forgetting about the older cameras.
I agree, half press will do DoF preview
One thing that I found works well on beginners when it comes to the aperture is to think with depth of field.
the bigger the f number is, the larger the depth of field is going to be, and vice versa. No more backwards psychology.
Also, your explanation of the aperture (with the cookie) is correct, however it can be a bit confusing for a lot of people. See, the amount of light the hits the sensor is correlated to the area of the lens that isn't blocked off by the diaphragm. Area means it's not a linear function, it's a square function. Your explanation leads to believe that it's a linear one (i.e. f/4 is half the light compared to f/2, same with f/8 and f/4) while in fact, since it's a square function, it's not half, but a fourth !
This is why weird values like f/2.8, f/5.6 exists : those are the value that are actually half the light ! f/2.8 is half the light of f/2, f/5.6 is half the light of f/4, and f/11 is half the light of f/8.
Brilliant vlog again what more can I say
I love my Fuji gear and your videos make me love it even more. Thank you for doing what you do!
Thank yiu for all your great videos tutorials 👍👏 …..My way to remember is …..The smaller the F stop number the smaller the depth of field ….. the larger the F stop number the larger the depth of field.
Really good, calm explanations. Great video thank you.
It’s good that you talked about the f# as a fraction; not enough people do this. Technically, it is a focal ratio, which is f# = f/a = (focal length)/(aperture diameter). So the aperture is actually “a” and can be expressed in mm. The aperture “a”should always be written as “f/1.2”, for example; therefore, 56mm lens / 1.2 focal ratio equals 46.7mm aperture. People don’t seem to care about the aperture in terms of diameter. Why? Because the exposure is a function of the focal ratio and not the actual diameter. However, with respect to out-of-focus backgrounds, the actual aperture diameter is more relevant. Most tutorials will say the DOF (or even the background blur) is a function of focal ratio, focal length, camera-to-subject distance, and subject-to-background distance. You will notice the first two items on that list are focal ratio and focal length. But they can be combined into just one item - aperture diameter. As a test, shoot a subject with the 56/1.2 lens at f/1.2. Then shoot the same subject with the 55-200mm zoom at 200mm with f/4.8. Note that 200/4.8 = 41.7mm aperture diameter. When comparing the two images, you will notice that background objects have very different blur when you crop in and look at the object in the background. But due to the difference in “compression” between the 56 and 200mm focal lengths, when you look at the overall impression of background blur when viewing the entire image, you will see similar background “blurry-ness”. Therefore, aperture diameter is a good way to compare a lens’s relative ability to blur a background. I actually make a graph of my lenses with focal length on x-axis in log-scale, and focal ratio on y-axis in linear scale. But I also add diagonal grid lines for aperture diameter so it is easy to see each lens’s relative ability to blur the background. I wish I could paste that graph (in GIF or JPG format) to these comments. It is a nice way to show your lens collection and it’s “coverage” to other photographers. (Rather than using MS Excel, I actually draw this graph in Visio to make it look nicer and for it to have more common focal lengths on the X-axis.). Anyway, that was pretty long. Just thought you might enjoy seeing someone else totally geek out on this subject. LOL. Have a nice day!
Here is a Dropbox link to the afore mentioned graph in GIF format: www.dropbox.com/s/x7ws98cvcqo55yw/My%20Lenses%20Visio%20Drawing.gif?dl=0
Aperture diameter is also useful in discussing lens-equivalency across sensor-size formats. For example, let’s say I use the 56/1.2 on APS (at ISO160 let’s say). The crop factor is 1.5 for full-frame equivalency. So 56*1.5 = 84mm equivalent. But to get same background blur, we need same aperture diameter. So, 56/1.2 = 46.7mm diameter. On full frame, that will be 84/1.8 = 46.7mm diameter. For exposure, full frame will use ISO320 to get the same result. Then, we can ask if APS yields smaller lenses. Well, both these lenses (56/1.2 and 84/1.8) have identical optical diameter, but the full-frame lens is 1.5x longer, optically. For the most part, “optical” size translates into “physical size” for similar lens designs. And then there is of course some space needed for focus motors and OIS. But fundamentally, the APS lens-size advantage manifests only in the lens length.
Hmmmm. But great video by Chris.
@@alicksasylum No doubt!
And another learning thank you.
F1 looks so delicious 😋
Are those home baked cookies?!
Great content as always! Somehow you consistently find stuff I need to know when I need to know it!
Explains a lot. I recently had a problem where the dials were not working but did not know which setting I had changed to cause this. I eventually used reset and redid my settings.
Almost 100K ! 🕺
This guy just keeps teaching me new stuff , Sensei Thanks a ton
Hello from New Zealand! That was gold, thank you! I had been ready to chuck my XC lens out because I didn't know how to adjust the aperture, thank you!! One quick question, I use the front command dial to adjust my SS using the "T" setting, how can I assign my rear command dial to adjust aperture when using my XC lens? I see that the SS is automatically assigned to the rear if I change the front dial to aperture, but that means unlearning to adjust SS with the front command dial. Can I swap them around?? Help!
Thanks for the video
Just realised I had the camera set up wrong for my Tamron 18-300
Wow! What great information! You are amazing.Need the cookie recipe.
This awesome customization in the settings allowed me to continue using my XC60mm F2.4 when the physical aperture ring stopped working for the widest settings like 2.4, 2.8 etc and would force the lens to shoot at 5.6 or higher. By simply setting the lens to A and controlling aperture with the front dial I’m able to use it as if nothing is wrong.
People don't talk about using the knob on a body eliminates click stops with video.
Fabulous COOKIE reference!! I love it! :) Thank you!
man i love this channel, thank you so much
Cheers for the video. I’m a beginner to photography so know next to nothing. One thing does puzzle me more than anything, how can a photographer quickly make all these adjustments to set up a shot in situations where time is crucial? Ie a nature shot? I imagine hearing a few clicks and the bird would have flown away? Does the photographer have to know what type of shot they want before pressing the button? Cheers for the content pat2tech. 👍🏻
Another great and helpful video Chris. So much appreciated 🙂
I learned something today: the depth of field button. Thank you 😊
Thanks, informative and very useful
Great video as always, I learn so much from your channel, thank you,
How did I not know about the depth of field preview feature? After searching the PDF I find it's hidden away on page 65 of the XT-4 manual. Thanks, Chris!
Sir, much respect, you are amazing. I learn a lot from your videos.
Awesome! Thank you, Chris!
Legit got into photography because of you. Thanks for being an inspiration!
What great info. I always learn something new and useful from you. Now send us the cookie recipe. 😊
oh yeah ! comment just because I like you content :D
Sir can you suggest what SD card should xt4 use ? At 400m/s 4k 10bit
Your videos on the features of Fujifilm system cameras have been very helpful. I got into photography early this year through toy film cameras all the way through to my Pentax ME Super (mostly in aperture priority, I'm still learning) and I'm having boatloads of fun, but film costs a lot lmao. I had a Sony NEX-F3 but I haaaaated it. It was all menu diving all the time, no viewfinder, I felt like I was using my phone. DSLRs don't do it either because they're huge af (doesn't help that my two SLRs are the ME Super and the Auto 110 so my idea of comfortable camera size is extremely skewed lol) and I still end up having to menu dive. The Fuji system seems to be the only digital system without a PASM wheel.
My question(s) for you is, have you ever shot film? If so, how does that compare to shooting on Fuji with all the manual controls and viewfinder? Once you have stuff customized and whatnot, does it feel comparable to using a film SLR? If so, is there a relatively affordable used camera model you recommend that has a viewfinder? Maximum image size is not a factor for me, just ergonomics, controls, and speed. I'm considering the XT100, which does have PASM but also can set the two command dials to shutter and aperture. Since I'm coming from a film background, ISO setting being at my fingertips isn't a priority.
Just as you think you know your camera. Boom! Fast Friday 😀
Boom! 👍
Thanks good explanation sir
A timely video, I just picked up an XC lens.
nice video, any tips to choose the aperture precisely (e.g landscape : f/11 or 13 or 16...?) or to have the sharpest image possible?
Hi, can you make a tutorial how to avoid flickering light in videography tried my XT3 shoot use 180 Shutter rule in indoor basketball ball when in post my video had flickering light please teach us how to avoid it specially using a fujifilm camera. Thank you
A big yes to that one.
@@Paul_Rohde Up
My X-T3 only needs the Shutter dial (regardless of the ISO dial) to be in auto to lose the aperture preview. Wow a strange quirk! However, when set to video, the aperture preview is always there even if both of either ISO and Shutter are on auto.
Oh yeah! This one's exactly for me!
I never knew the DoF preview was always on in manual mode.
I did notice that the DoF used for the LCD / EVF preview depends on the amount of available sunlight: in very bright light, a narrower aperture is used even when selecting a wide open aperture.
It's something that got me super lost when I switched from Sony to Fujifilm. In sony a6000 at least, DoF preview is always on. So I thought that something was wrong with my Fuji camera in manual, for not changing the Aperture until I half pressed the shutter.
Glad to have found this channel back then to learn it proper :)
A forth type of aperture ring are the “fly by wire” aperture rings found on Fuji’s variable aperture zoom lenses.
Good point! 👍
18-55 lens is that style.
Brilliant! Many thanks.
Awesome video. Thank you for yet another great lesson.
Entertaining as always! "f/8 never tasted so great" got me cracking XD
Hey Chris! Quick question - I have the Viltrox 85mm for my XT-4, but when I have Focus on Manuel and turn the focus ring on the lens, it's soooooooo slow. I have to do like 20 full turns of the focus wheel to go from Close Focus to Infinity. Any hidden setting to change speed that up?
That lens is focus-by-wire type, a long one at that (some reviewers said 270°-300°~ish focus throw). Even with marker, depend on how fast you turning it, the focus point will never be same.
It is what it is.
Nice video :) question: what if the lens have variable aperture when zooming? So If I pick f4 (let’s say 24mm) and then I zoom in to 80mm (so the aperture goes to 5.6, but physically it’s f4 on the lens) and then I want to go back to 24mm, the aperture also will go back to f4? Thanks a mill dude :)
Excellent!
Hi there,
I really like your videos, nevertheless one thing puzzles me: why haven't you spoken of Airy phenomenon yet (as far as I know).
It would explain you subscribers to understand the more megapixel does not mean the best shot, especially at low apertures.
If you could please make a specific video on this topic it'd be great.
Thanks again 4 ur videos.
Dang ! That's brilliant thanks
This guy is freakin’ awesome!
🙏 🙏
when i put my XF Fuji 35mm f/2 into A mode it puts the aperture on the front dial wheel on my xs20
am i doing something wrong cause it’s still manuela
Both....helpful n entertaining :-)
A fuji guru.
i literally laughed out loud when you said f.8 never tasted so good lol. Engaging content as always Sir. Chris.
The "Aperture Ring Setting (A) menu item, isn't available on my X-T2 or 20. That's disappointing, because I think I'd like to use it.
because you selected "manual" ?
my fujifilm xs20 doesn't have the "APERTURE RING SETTING (A)" menu item. how do I disable the aperture ring? The ring on my 16-80 F4 is constantly rubbing against something when on the move and getting set to an aperture I don't want to use.
To me "focus area" (in your title) is related to autofocus, not depth of field.
I always learn so much about my camera, but also in general. I mean, fractions! Who would have thought…
"f8 never tasted so good" 😂👍
Thanks
I have a question...maybe for another Fast Friday. You know the S, C, and M toggle button on the front of the older Fuji cameras, like the Xpro 2 and I think the X-T ranges too. Do you have to turn it to M when you put a manual lens on? I always forget about it.
Hi mate, the dial isn't just on the old cameras, they are on the new cameras, though they have unfortunately dropped the dial on some smaller model(s) that use to have it. That's a major dial, for auto focus, Stationary (Still), Continuous, or not auto focus -- Manual.
I don't have a manual focus lens for my Fujifilm camera to know, but I can only assume it won't matter, as the camera won't be able to focus, and it will know it's not an auto focus lens. If you're not getting a red !AF box coming up on a half shutter press, then it shows it doesn't matter, I would assume.
Only pal2tech could take something I already knew about like aperture and still make it interesting by using cookies to explain the math behind it.
and now I am craving a cookie
You mean there are actually lenses that don't have an aperture ring? WHAT?! LOL!! 🙂 Actually, there is also the vintage lens issue where you need to set the focal length of the lens in the camera settings and enable shooting without lens. But, I'm sure you've already covered that one!! Have a great weekend!
Love❤️
F8 never tasted so good. Ha ha ha ha ha ha I should use that in my next short film.
Home cookies?? 😋
Were. 👍
The entire photographic triangle bamboozles me lol. I have no idea which is more important. The ISO, f stop… the joys of learning I guess lol. Maybe I should leave everything in automatic and see what happens for now?…
I put that down to a failure to Fujifilm. It wouldn't take much to include a few key explanation pages in every camera model's manual. It's also hard if your model doesn't have separate dedicated marked dials for easy access.
You know some pros use full auto too so don’t feel bad about that.
If you’re bamboozled, this is how I would explain the triangle to a beginner.
What’s most important is the creative affect you’re after, compromised by the lighting for the desired exposure.
SHUTTER
Firstly you could start with the Shutter Dial. You want the dial at its slowest that will give a sharp picture. If light is plentiful, make it faster. But sometimes you want a slower shutter for a natural motion blur, like rain streaks, or other blur effects.
Brighter > Darker
Blur Affect > Sharpness
APERTURE
Second, you could choose the aperture, to choose if you want dreamy subject isolation, or to have more depth in your picture for a deeper scene, that is, how deep is the area in focus.
Brighter > Darker
Thinner > Deeper
ISO
After the above, you would set the ISO for the correct exposure. Many leave the ISO to Auto as it’s a non-creative mundane setting that the camera can do quickly. Funnily, in film days, ISO is the first choice as it will be the film that’s put in the camera. Some won't go above an upper limit, and work around that.
Darker > Brighter
Cleaner > Noisy/Grain Affect
Higher Dynamic Range > Lower Dynamic Range
Where light is limited, you’ll have to make compromises. If a flash is not applicable, usually, the aperture is opened, then a higher ISO where more grain has to be accepted. The shutter has to be fast enough to avoid unwanted blur, but some blur may be more acceptable to overall grain. Still photography to movement/action will give a different approach.
Sometimes it’s not an exposure triangle, it could be an exposure square if you use filters!
@@Paul_Rohde Don't agree. If you are really into photography, or learning. why would you expect a camera manufacturer to include the 'basics' in their manual.
"F/8 never tasted so good." But I saw you enjoying F/4.
Cookies should be used to demonstrate everything.
If you went to this much trouble to clear the fuzz about f stops and their relationship to diabetes, I can forsee you hiring Professor Irwin Corey and the Rockettes to explain the Circle of Confusion...
For those still living on a life raft, this is Irwin Corey: ruclips.net/video/-CsdRGbQPr0/видео.html
Calling his agent now.
@@pal2tech He'll need a shovel.
☕️👍
Thanks