I dont know how many videos i watched to try and figure out how to fix my esteps ,and here your video finally explained it to me in a way i can understand. THANK YOU!
the best video I could see, clear and accurate without going into the complication really made for beginners. we can not prevent people from putting videos on you tube but unfortunately many hackers who bring nothing but mistakes and false knowledge.
I am looking forward to this series. I previously upgraded my CR10 to linear rails on the Y axis. For me, there were really no difference between before and after. Noise level is the same, and I don’t feel the axis move easier, or is more rigid than before. So I’m interested to see your results on that modification.
Yes, you are right. Linear rails won't print any better, I think they may perform slightly better than pully wheels when printing at higher speed, will try this upgrade on Ender-3 and Ender-5 and see if I can get any improvements :)
I look forward to seeing your new video’s each week . A quick suggestion for you . You should be able to remove the press fit gear on the original stepper motor . Use a Dremel with a cutting wheel . Cut a slit in each side of the gear until the gear comes off . Use some tape to protect the part of the shaft not being cut . Then clamp some vice grips to the shaft to keep it from rotating while grinding . Then measure the depth and length of the D-cut in the new shaft of the stepper motor . Again use the Dremel with a grinding wheel attachment . Use a digital micrometer to get the correct size . Also use some oil or other lubricant to keep the shaft from getting too hot . If you have multiple stepper motors that need to be changed . It could save you some money with only needing to purchase the gears ⚙️ . They are not very expensive . Hope this helps you or your viewers . It could also make a good ( how to ) video .
There are also pullers, that are normally used for bearings, that should be able to remove the gear as well. In the US, they can be had for cheap at Harbor Freight. They have a set of 3 jaw pullers in 3 different sizes for $19.
I'm an absolute smuck! I installed those belt tensioners on my Ender 3 Max. In order to do so, I dissasembled the entire thing and reassembled it with the belt in there. NEVER did it occur to me to just detach the belt and run it through...
Another great video. Your presenting style really is perfect for informational/educational videos like this. Some comments: I completely agree that the #1 upgrade for any new printer is a PEI-coated steel build plate. They're practically magic. I also agree that the stock plastic extruder on the E3 and similar printers is trash and should be high on the to-be-upgraded list. For the filament guide and spool roller, you can print your own 608 bearings and save a few bucks. Printed bearings are tough to pull off and nowhere near as smooth as a real bearing, but they're more than good enough for these non-precision applications. Tweaking your settings to get them to print correctly makes for an excellent extrusion and retraction dialing-in exercise for a new printer. Heck, you could probably do an entire video on tweaking settings to print good print-in-place bearings. There's several models on thingiverse, and I've had good luck with this one in particular: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2746804 You can save even more money by printing your own belt tensioners. $23 isn't bad for metal tensioners, but it's an order of magnitude more than what it would cost to print them. Again, there's lots of options on thingiverse for various printers - I don't have an E3 so I can't vouch for one in particular for your printer, but I've printed these for my LK1 and they work great. www.thingiverse.com/thing:3413076 www.thingiverse.com/thing:3662614 Take the money you saved with your printed bearings and tensioners and upgrade to an all-metal hotend. A microswiss knockoff like the one from gulfcoast robotics is about $30, and it is a very significant upgrade. Going all-metal means you don't need to fuss around with the bowden tube at all - the poorly-cut generic white tube is fine. You'll also be able to dial your retractions back a lot, and you'll open up some higher-temp filament options. With the money you didn't spend on capricorn tubing, consider buying a bed insulation mat. They're cheap, and they help your bed heat faster and more uniformly. They also save a bit of electricity, and that's never a bad thing.
Would you be so kind as to share the .stl file you used (or location) for the filament guide you used? I would like to add the filament sensor but existing guide is too small to mount to it.
Good question. Yes, you are right. As I have also upgraded the Ender-3 Pro with Capricorn tube and metal extruder with dual gear, also the length of the bowden tube on Ender-3 is shorter, so the retraction is slightly better than stock Ender-5 Pro.
A few of your upgrades don't affect the output quality but I do appreciate all your tuning and this super excellent explaining. Great job! Everyone can decide for themselves which upgrade he will do, of course it's a lot of fun to make something.
2 years later and this video is still way better than what I've been able to find, well done!
I dont know how many videos i watched to try and figure out how to fix my esteps ,and here your video finally explained it to me in a way i can understand. THANK YOU!
the best video I could see, clear and accurate without going into the complication really made for beginners.
we can not prevent people from putting videos on you tube but unfortunately many hackers who bring nothing but mistakes and false knowledge.
Thank you for your kind comment! I'm glad that you found this video useful.
Great video! Your presentation is very clear.
Great video, clear focus, good comparisons, love it!
I am looking forward to this series.
I previously upgraded my CR10 to linear rails on the Y axis. For me, there were really no difference between before and after. Noise level is the same, and I don’t feel the axis move easier, or is more rigid than before. So I’m interested to see your results on that modification.
Yes, you are right. Linear rails won't print any better, I think they may perform slightly better than pully wheels when printing at higher speed, will try this upgrade on Ender-3 and Ender-5 and see if I can get any improvements :)
I look forward to seeing your new video’s each week . A quick suggestion for you . You should be able to remove the press fit gear on the original stepper motor . Use a Dremel with a cutting wheel . Cut a slit in each side of the gear until the gear comes off . Use some tape to protect the part of the shaft not being cut . Then clamp some vice grips to the shaft to keep it from rotating while grinding . Then measure the depth and length of the D-cut in the new shaft of the stepper motor . Again use the Dremel with a grinding wheel attachment . Use a digital micrometer to get the correct size . Also use some oil or other lubricant to keep the shaft from getting too hot . If you have multiple stepper motors that need to be changed . It could save you some money with only needing to purchase the gears ⚙️ . They are not very expensive . Hope this helps you or your viewers . It could also make a good ( how to ) video .
There are also pullers, that are normally used for bearings, that should be able to remove the gear as well.
In the US, they can be had for cheap at Harbor Freight. They have a set of 3 jaw pullers in 3 different sizes for $19.
I'm an absolute smuck! I installed those belt tensioners on my Ender 3 Max. In order to do so, I dissasembled the entire thing and reassembled it with the belt in there. NEVER did it occur to me to just detach the belt and run it through...
Another awesome video. Can't wait for more upgrades! Keep up the great work.
more bloopers please! Great video very helpful. You guys on discord?
Another great video. Your presenting style really is perfect for informational/educational videos like this.
Some comments: I completely agree that the #1 upgrade for any new printer is a PEI-coated steel build plate. They're practically magic. I also agree that the stock plastic extruder on the E3 and similar printers is trash and should be high on the to-be-upgraded list.
For the filament guide and spool roller, you can print your own 608 bearings and save a few bucks. Printed bearings are tough to pull off and nowhere near as smooth as a real bearing, but they're more than good enough for these non-precision applications. Tweaking your settings to get them to print correctly makes for an excellent extrusion and retraction dialing-in exercise for a new printer. Heck, you could probably do an entire video on tweaking settings to print good print-in-place bearings. There's several models on thingiverse, and I've had good luck with this one in particular: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2746804
You can save even more money by printing your own belt tensioners. $23 isn't bad for metal tensioners, but it's an order of magnitude more than what it would cost to print them. Again, there's lots of options on thingiverse for various printers - I don't have an E3 so I can't vouch for one in particular for your printer, but I've printed these for my LK1 and they work great. www.thingiverse.com/thing:3413076 www.thingiverse.com/thing:3662614
Take the money you saved with your printed bearings and tensioners and upgrade to an all-metal hotend. A microswiss knockoff like the one from gulfcoast robotics is about $30, and it is a very significant upgrade. Going all-metal means you don't need to fuss around with the bowden tube at all - the poorly-cut generic white tube is fine. You'll also be able to dial your retractions back a lot, and you'll open up some higher-temp filament options.
With the money you didn't spend on capricorn tubing, consider buying a bed insulation mat. They're cheap, and they help your bed heat faster and more uniformly. They also save a bit of electricity, and that's never a bad thing.
Thanks for sharing the links!
Have you had any issues with the dual gear extruder gear on the handle rubbing into the frame?
Would you be so kind as to share the .stl file you used (or location) for the filament guide you used? I would like to add the filament sensor but existing guide is too small to mount to it.
Great works
Impressive video 👍
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😀
Thank you so much, I'm glad you enjoyed!
Great Video.
Why is the 3 pro's quality better than 5 pro's ?
5 pro also has Capricorn tube and metal extruder, right ?
Good question. Yes, you are right. As I have also upgraded the Ender-3 Pro with Capricorn tube and metal extruder with dual gear, also the length of the bowden tube on Ender-3 is shorter, so the retraction is slightly better than stock Ender-5 Pro.
@@AuroraTech
Yes makes sense.
Thanks!
Keep up the great work!
Why this kind of channel has only 2 k subscribes.
This channel is osm
A few of your upgrades don't affect the output quality but I do appreciate all your tuning and this super excellent explaining. Great job!
Everyone can decide for themselves which upgrade he will do, of course it's a lot of fun to make something.
Where do you get your philiment, Pete or abs?
PLA, I bought Overture filament from Amazon, around $22-$25 per roll (1kg).
Hi, I just bought an ender 3 max, do you know of any good slicer programs for it?
I would say PrusaSlicer. Set it as a Ender 3 and then change the size of the bed an Z height afterwords.
My personal preference is Cura as I am more familiar with its features, I use it most of the time for all printers.
@@AuroraTech I decided to use the Creality slicer; its based on Cura and seems to be very simple.
But maybe I will experiment with all of them.
Perfect 👌🏻👍🏻
Wouldn't it be better to buy higher quality printer if one is going to spend $200+ to upgrade for better print quality?
SUPER
🤩🤩🤩🤩
man you are short
Wow your rude
@@Mmmmn520 didnt ask
@@Propalica I didn’t ask you to respond