Greetings from far-away southern California, by an aging-gracefully, equally-adaptable homeowner... engineer and amateur plumber. Roger, you and your staff put together truly marvelous tutorials, excellent on all technical points, background explanation, and above all, diction! I can understand every single word uttered by everyone on these videos. I was confused by the term "cylinder" so I looked elsewhere and quickly discovered it was a passive tank for storage of hot water; the boiler is outboard (i.e., elsewhere) and a heat exchanger inside the "cylinder" separates water that touches anyone's skin from water that is heated in the boiler. Said boiler is dual-purpose as it also heats the living space, by other heat exchangers... presumably visible radiators. My late Dad, a steamfitting contractor, called this "wet heat" and in SoCal he installed massive nat-gas-fired systems of wet heat in hospitals, etc. Heating was marvelously clean, as no flue gasses could ever enter the living space, as is the case with residential forced air heating systems in so many American homes... when the heat exchanger breaches after about 20 years of use. Then we see hints of soot, at the outflow "registers" (little steel ventilation ports) high in the rooms of the house. So it seems you replaced the UK equivalent of a USA "hot water tank" (integrated boiler-with-storage) with a "tankless" boiler. So it seems... I realize your video is intended for domestic UK consumption but you have admirers across the entire English-speaking world, and if you already know (without doing tedious research) how your UK methods might apply to the USA, Canada, India, etc., perhaps you might work in a tip or two. By the way, I own a single family residence, and tankless hot water heating doesn't make sense at my SFR address; it does make sense in nearby laundromats, restaurants, etc . This doesn't stop plumbers from pushing "tankless" on the naive consumer. Meanwhile, tank-type heaters have been improved dramatically, on the point of efficiency, as have natural-gas-fired forced-air space heating systems, over my lifetime of 66 years.
Hi John Good to hear from you. Reading your comment makes me realise just how many things we take for granted when explaining. The direct fired water heater came and went in the U.K and,, as you say, was replaced with the cylinder and internal coil. It does require a couple of motorised valves to control the circuits which is an added expense. I am particularly pleased that you can understand us. The English language is very dear to our hearts and we try not to misuse it. Often we find foreigners speak it much better than our fellow Brits.
So now I am home from work. I frequent So-Cal and happen to be a gas engineer and electrician in the UK. Tankless pressurized combination boilers are designed for 1 up 1 down single bathroom homes and best suit single outlet (on the hot water side) at a time commercial premises. For anyone with a home big enough to have 2 full bathrooms (although sometimes if it's just a shower room an electric shower is put forward) it is advised to go with a cylinder. Quite often you'll hear Hot water cylinders refereed to as "Calorifiers" for indirect and "Water Heaters" for direct fired tanks. Water Heaters most commonly these days are found at countryside hotels and are often LPG rather than Natural Gas. As for heating, the most efficient method is underfloor heating rather than using wall hung steel radiators. With anything the type of property and the expense tends to dictate what is possible though. It is possible to get a 40kw combination boiler but again but it will only deliver around 16 Liter/min. When I am in the L.A area most shower heads are 18-20 liters/min flow rate. Typical domestic combination boilers are around 10 liters/min. I could endlessly bore you with the differences in heating and hot water between the two climates but I'll leave it at this!
kerry woolnough That’s a wise choice! That Baxi model is filled with Stainless steel and brass, so is of great build quality - compared to a Bosch counterpart containing cheaper materials like aluminium and plastic. If your installer hasn’t clarified it, it’s worth knowing that condensing only happens when the water going back to the boiler is below 54 degrees. If you want optimum efficiency, then try to get your heating flow temperature set to 65 degrees or below - although it may run the heating for longer, it’ll be more efficient and therefore cheaper on gas bills!
@@AllenHart999 Yes. I might have dropped it down a bit further into a bit of 1 1/4 but this boiler is in a half cellar so there was limited space to get it out above the ground and still achieve the required fall to drain. The external section is in 1 1/4 and almost vertical to the drain. The issue is freezing and I am sure that has been mitigated.
Hi Roger excellent video. Thanks. The hot water pressure from a combi depends very much on the cold water mains. Fitting a combi (top end or otherwise) will not guarantee hot water at multiple hot water outputs like an unvented cylinder ( eg megaflow systems etc). Also the combi cannot do two things at once. If someone starts to use hot water, the central heating will start to cool down. Not best in winter. So why are plumbers/heating engineers prompting combi's or for that matter storage combi's in multi bathroom homes. Could you explain please. Thank you.
Combi systems are far more easier and cheaper to install. An unvented cylinder and system boiler set up costs a lot more and customers aren't necessarily willing to pay the uplift in materials and labour costs :)
Thanks for the video; just thinking of the changes in regulations for new builds from 2025, where we won’t be able to have gas boilers installed, I was wondering whether you might have any advice / a future video - on what’s available for customers who want to have an electric combi boiler. There are a few brands around - but no one’s talking about them. I also realise that in an ideal world people would also install a heat exchanger of some sort to help (but let’s say the tight space doesn’t allow it in my case), and I realise I could stick with gas in my present circumstances (which I don’t want to, as I‘d prefer to pay more for heating and have the conscience of paying for “green” electricity, when there are no environmentally friendly options available for gas). I‘d like to be ahead of the curve and go electric now, any advice appreciated. Cheers!
Hi perfect video . I am about to install nest e thermostat , my question is what is your opinion about installing this grey part i think its call heat link e , place where is existing old thermostat there is not much space then i was thinking to install straight under boiler programmer ,my question is , is inside this heat link any sensor for temperature which can mess up with keep the house temperature as boiler is fitted in the toilet room and that is coldest place inside the house.
Hi Roger. The heat link contains batteries. Do you have to take the batteries out and recharge every so often? Or is that there in case of a power cut?
Hi Allen I am looking to have my boiler replaced, what boiler on the market today would you have fitted to your house if you had to replace your boiler. Looking at a (Viessmann Vitodens 111-W 26kW Storage Combination Boiler Natural Gas ErP) or a (IDEAL VOGUE MAX COMBI 40 GAS COMBI BOILER) are these both ON a par with each other if yes what would be your choice. Changing from oil to PLG.
Great vid Roger again. I was very surprised Big Phil hadn't heard of "Nest" or "Boiler plus" its been around now for 2 yrs,or had he !!!!!,artistic licence I presume. Good deal getting the Nest as part of the package,and that Baxi looks first class,but for me if a punter don't want to pay £1200+ then cheaper boiler and a weather compensating sensor is cheapest imo,I believe and I may be wrong here that it doesn't need to be fitted to comply with Boiler+ just be installed with 2 wires in the boiler and the link still in place. Boiler plus for me and I suspect many is a total PIA,Rant over and in summery tbh those Nest and similar are very impressive and the way forward for me.You Roger are also a very good trainer and enjoy your video, best regard to Big Phil,he'll be a good un,
Is it possible to have two nests in a house one stat down stairs one up just asking as it would be easier for my elderly mam we already have a nest down stairs on a baxi 330 opentherm wired.
Hello MR Bisby I have heard on the grapevine but don't know how true it is but maybe you could shed some light on the matter that as of 2020 all new builds must have electric boilers fitted in them instead of gas ones please keep the videos coming
It is nonsense, Some Government minister went to lunch and had his ear bent by a heat pump manufacturer. The Government is consulting which means everyone is chipping in but the likelihood is that we will more to hydrogen gas region by region. One thing that has to happen as part of this is to use plastic pipes for internal gas runs.
Electric boilers won’t meet the environmental targets we are set to achieve, and while the ‘theory’ behind hydrogen is great, a lot of C02 is created to produce it. Heat pumps (both air and water) will rarely fit into the ‘boiler replacement’ category, as they simply cannot deliver the heat (into our generally poorly insulated homes) required while staying within their optimum efficiency. Any form of heat derived from combustion will always be able to keep up. Solar thermal and gas boilers seem to currently be the most environmentally responsible ‘retrofit’. IMHO, I can’t see us moving to a successful method - we moved to condensing boilers in 2005 and the majority of them are running at a flow temperature outside of condensing range - so there’s little benefit!
Sheppy 1 Nest has a thermostat for systems with a hot water tank, and it will control both. Nest hot water scheduling and boosting is identical to a normal programmer, however the heating side works differently. Your heating would always be ‘on’ in a traditional sense, however you set timed temperatures to define when this is, e.g. you might set it to 15/16 at night, and it won’t come on, and set it to 20/21 in the evening etc. Think of it like your heating becomes ‘temperature’ scheduled.
Roger S You could add a Nest and just stick the boiler timeclock onto always on (some boilers have an override, some need ‘programming’ to be always on). This would make the timeclock redundant and Nest would take over schedules and temperatures.
@@SkillBuilder hi thanks for the quick response its a vaillant the heatlink is turning the heating on and off but the thermostat isn't turning on just a blank screen when plugged in to the stand and a Amber flashing light when plugged in to micro USB
I wouldn’t usually, but today I’m playing grumpy git! Does that boiler not have opentherm? The thermostat is hardly smart if it’s just throwing on/off signals to the boiler! Noticeable efficiency methods come from true compensation methods, like room or weather comp.
Skill Builder Seems like they’ve missed a trick then. Why choose this over the 600 or 800 range? Does the platinum still have a Stainless hex and brass internals?
@@josephrowley2172 yeah still all brass, copper and stainless build. The platinum does not have opentherm, the 600/800 series is just utter trash and looks terrible. The platinum is in my mind one of the best boiler ever, coming from a engineer point of view
Eh..? Hold on.. the heat link replaces the existing thermostat but the heat link needs to be within 30cm of the boiler? I’ve never seen a thermostat 30cm from a boiler.. ?
Hi Allen We watch your channel, good stuff. The wall wasn't flat so there was a slight twist in the jig. The chisel brought that bottom right hand corner out enough to get the nuts on. I always back them off but it can be a pig if the wall is not completely flat.
@@AllenHart999 The chisel made the job easier and was, obviously, removed once the connection was made. I can't see that it did any harm. I did back all the nuts off as I said in the video but it was still a little bit out.
My plumber missed out on his 15 quid scrapping the old boiler, some nice Eastern European lady took it away in her pushchair, should have come back sooner.
Shaun, some years ago I took a 120,000 btu Ideal floor mounted boiler out of a job and managed just about to get it near the front of the property, within 20 minutes an Eastern European lad knocked and very politely asked if he could have the boiler for scrap, He backed over his truck, so I said I would help him lift it on. He said no Sir it is not for you to lift as I have help, he then called his wife from the truck, who was ( and i'm not joking) heavily pregnant......She had no hesitation about helping him, I insisted that if he made her lift it, he couldn't have it. we slung it on just about between us and off they went, I bet, she was stronger than I was. Might have been the Same girl.
Skill Builder sorry mate not true. The service is what the manufacturer requires in the installation guide. It’s a full service nowadays requiring a strip down and inspection of hex, electrodes etc, etc. These 10 year warranty’s comes at a price.
Does Nest do multi zone yet? If you have rads and water underfloor you need multi zone otherwise boiler plus waist of time as efficiently will be lost as the two zones have different demands on the boiler and heating time. I had been looking at Hive for that reason Just seen only single zone, so Nest still no good if you have multi zone as you lose the benefits of Geolocation and remote facilites
it works offline, itll revert to your common profles ,id never go out of my wayto buy or pay for such a thing though, i prefer the cold more than the heat so i like manual control only
It makes no difference. It is a switch and when the contact closes they are both live. If it had a shunt like the old thermostats you would need to put the live in the right side to activate the heating element.
If you're cold put the heating on, if it's not cold keep the heating off. Don't need some cloud spying device to indicate when the heating needs to be turned on. Great vid otherwise.
Still powered by gas! Just installed an airsource heat pump on my latest renovation project. Gas is out, for dinosaurs. Start promoting renewables instead and they will come down in price.
I have installed a few air source and in the winter you need to boost the heat with an immersion heater. The only way they are viable is if there is no mains gas and the alternative is very expensive. If the house was new build and had very high levels of insulation and air tightness then an air source heat pump would work but in a renovation you have to do huge amounts of work to lower the heat loss.
I like your videos but this one is pointless because the man at home can’t fit this. The google part is interesting but the wiring up is what you want to see. Criticism is meant constructively.
![VENEZUELA vs. ARGENTINA [1-1] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 9](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/SJfoPdeOPCQ/mqdefault.jpg)
*Works as expected **Fastly.Cool*
Greetings from far-away southern California, by an aging-gracefully, equally-adaptable homeowner... engineer and amateur plumber. Roger, you and your staff put together truly marvelous tutorials, excellent on all technical points, background explanation, and above all, diction! I can understand every single word uttered by everyone on these videos.
I was confused by the term "cylinder" so I looked elsewhere and quickly discovered it was a passive tank for storage of hot water; the boiler is outboard (i.e., elsewhere) and a heat exchanger inside the "cylinder" separates water that touches anyone's skin from water that is heated in the boiler. Said boiler is dual-purpose as it also heats the living space, by other heat exchangers... presumably visible radiators. My late Dad, a steamfitting contractor, called this "wet heat" and in SoCal he installed massive nat-gas-fired systems of wet heat in hospitals, etc. Heating was marvelously clean, as no flue gasses could ever enter the living space, as is the case with residential forced air heating systems in so many American homes... when the heat exchanger breaches after about 20 years of use. Then we see hints of soot, at the outflow "registers" (little steel ventilation ports) high in the rooms of the house.
So it seems you replaced the UK equivalent of a USA "hot water tank" (integrated boiler-with-storage) with a "tankless" boiler. So it seems... I realize your video is intended for domestic UK consumption but you have admirers across the entire English-speaking world, and if you already know (without doing tedious research) how your UK methods might apply to the USA, Canada, India, etc., perhaps you might work in a tip or two.
By the way, I own a single family residence, and tankless hot water heating doesn't make sense at my SFR address; it does make sense in nearby laundromats, restaurants, etc . This doesn't stop plumbers from pushing "tankless" on the naive consumer. Meanwhile, tank-type heaters have been improved dramatically, on the point of efficiency, as have natural-gas-fired forced-air space heating systems, over my lifetime of 66 years.
Hi John
Good to hear from you. Reading your comment makes me realise just how many things we take for granted when explaining. The direct fired water heater came and went in the U.K and,, as you say, was replaced with the cylinder and internal coil. It does require a couple of motorised valves to control the circuits which is an added expense.
I am particularly pleased that you can understand us. The English language is very dear to our hearts and we try not to misuse it. Often we find foreigners speak it much better than our fellow Brits.
So now I am home from work. I frequent So-Cal and happen to be a gas engineer and electrician in the UK. Tankless pressurized combination boilers are designed for 1 up 1 down single bathroom homes and best suit single outlet (on the hot water side) at a time commercial premises. For anyone with a home big enough to have 2 full bathrooms (although sometimes if it's just a shower room an electric shower is put forward) it is advised to go with a cylinder. Quite often you'll hear Hot water cylinders refereed to as "Calorifiers" for indirect and "Water Heaters" for direct fired tanks. Water Heaters most commonly these days are found at countryside hotels and are often LPG rather than Natural Gas. As for heating, the most efficient method is underfloor heating rather than using wall hung steel radiators. With anything the type of property and the expense tends to dictate what is possible though.
It is possible to get a 40kw combination boiler but again but it will only deliver around 16 Liter/min. When I am in the L.A area most shower heads are 18-20 liters/min flow rate. Typical domestic combination boilers are around 10 liters/min. I could endlessly bore you with the differences in heating and hot water between the two climates but I'll leave it at this!
Excellent job as usual Roger. Thanks for an enjoyable and in-depth demonstration.
Great videos Roger! just had a Baxi 830 with Hive fitted. It's great. Replacing a Bosch 24 CDI boiler. My 1st condensing boiler
kerry woolnough That’s a wise choice! That Baxi model is filled with Stainless steel and brass, so is of great build quality - compared to a Bosch counterpart containing cheaper materials like aluminium and plastic. If your installer hasn’t clarified it, it’s worth knowing that condensing only happens when the water going back to the boiler is below 54 degrees. If you want optimum efficiency, then try to get your heating flow temperature set to 65 degrees or below - although it may run the heating for longer, it’ll be more efficient and therefore cheaper on gas bills!
Brilliant Roger. Fantastic video 👍👍
Great clear explanation. Thanks
Great video and very informative as usual roger 👍
Interesting, informative, and dare I say entertaining. Great video Roger. Cheers.
Great video Roger!
Hi Roger, I love the platinum but could I ask you about the condensate as it does not seem to comply with the installation instructions? Thanks
O.K Allen fire away, ask you questions and I will try and answer them.
Skill Builder does the condensate comply?
@@AllenHart999 Yes. I might have dropped it down a bit further into a bit of 1 1/4 but this boiler is in a half cellar so there was limited space to get it out above the ground and still achieve the required fall to drain. The external section is in 1 1/4 and almost vertical to the drain. The issue is freezing and I am sure that has been mitigated.
Hi Roger excellent video. Thanks.
The hot water pressure from a combi depends very much on the cold water mains. Fitting a combi (top end or otherwise) will not guarantee hot water at multiple hot water outputs like an unvented cylinder ( eg megaflow systems etc). Also the combi cannot do two things at once. If someone starts to use hot water, the central heating will start to cool down. Not best in winter. So why are plumbers/heating engineers prompting combi's or for that matter storage combi's in multi bathroom homes. Could you explain please. Thank you.
Combi systems are far more easier and cheaper to install. An unvented cylinder and system boiler set up costs a lot more and customers aren't necessarily willing to pay the uplift in materials and labour costs :)
Well done roger
Thanks for the video; just thinking of the changes in regulations for new builds from 2025, where we won’t be able to have gas boilers installed, I was wondering whether you might have any advice / a future video - on what’s available for customers who want to have an electric combi boiler. There are a few brands around - but no one’s talking about them. I also realise that in an ideal world people would also install a heat exchanger of some sort to help (but let’s say the tight space doesn’t allow it in my case), and I realise I could stick with gas in my present circumstances (which I don’t want to, as I‘d prefer to pay more for heating and have the conscience of paying for “green” electricity, when there are no environmentally friendly options available for gas). I‘d like to be ahead of the curve and go electric now, any advice appreciated. Cheers!
Hi perfect video . I am about to install nest e thermostat , my question is what is your opinion about installing this grey part i think its call heat link e , place where is existing old thermostat there is not much space then i was thinking to install straight under boiler programmer ,my question is , is inside this heat link any sensor for temperature which can mess up with keep the house temperature as boiler is fitted in the toilet room and that is coldest place inside the house.
Sounds good Roger - but, in the event of internet service interuption how does it cope ?
Mike Lacey makes no difference mate. It still works as a thermostat as the receiver is wired into the boiler. It’s just no longer as “smart”. 👍🏻
@@copperskills3973 in a nutshell it uses your offline profiles
@@copperskills3973 I expect the brilliant folks at Nest accommodated this vulnerability, from the first day of designing it.
Hi Roger. The heat link contains batteries. Do you have to take the batteries out and recharge every so often? Or is that there in case of a power cut?
Hi Allen I am looking to have my boiler replaced, what boiler on the market today would you have fitted to your house if you had to replace your boiler. Looking at a (Viessmann Vitodens 111-W 26kW Storage Combination Boiler Natural Gas ErP) or a (IDEAL VOGUE MAX COMBI 40 GAS COMBI BOILER) are these both ON a par with each other if yes what would be your choice. Changing from oil to PLG.
Great vid Roger again. I was very surprised Big Phil hadn't heard of "Nest" or "Boiler plus" its been around now for 2 yrs,or had he !!!!!,artistic licence I presume. Good deal getting the Nest as part of the package,and that Baxi looks first class,but for me if a punter don't want to pay £1200+ then cheaper boiler and a weather compensating sensor is cheapest imo,I believe and I may be wrong here that it doesn't need to be fitted to comply with Boiler+ just be installed with 2 wires in the boiler and the link still in place. Boiler plus for me and I suspect many is a total PIA,Rant over and in summery tbh those Nest and similar are very impressive and the way forward for me.You Roger are also a very good trainer and enjoy your video, best regard to Big Phil,he'll be a good un,
Is it possible to have two nests in a house one stat down stairs one up just asking as it would be easier for my elderly mam we already have a nest down stairs on a baxi 330 opentherm wired.
great vid
Hello MR Bisby I have heard on the grapevine but don't know how true it is but maybe you could shed some light on the matter that as of 2020 all new builds must have electric boilers fitted in them instead of gas ones please keep the videos coming
It is nonsense, Some Government minister went to lunch and had his ear bent by a heat pump manufacturer. The Government is consulting which means everyone is chipping in but the likelihood is that we will more to hydrogen gas region by region. One thing that has to happen as part of this is to use plastic pipes for internal gas runs.
Electric boilers won’t meet the environmental targets we are set to achieve, and while the ‘theory’ behind hydrogen is great, a lot of C02 is created to produce it. Heat pumps (both air and water) will rarely fit into the ‘boiler replacement’ category, as they simply cannot deliver the heat (into our generally poorly insulated homes) required while staying within their optimum efficiency. Any form of heat derived from combustion will always be able to keep up. Solar thermal and gas boilers seem to currently be the most environmentally responsible ‘retrofit’. IMHO, I can’t see us moving to a successful method - we moved to condensing boilers in 2005 and the majority of them are running at a flow temperature outside of condensing range - so there’s little benefit!
Nest is excellent
A bit of jam sponge 😂👍
We used to call it a cuppa with Vicky (victoria sponge)
@@cliffcarlo180 We used to call it shagging the client's wife
How does the Nest work alongside a Controller which controls heating and water? Do you leave the heating on 24*7?
Sheppy 1 Nest has a thermostat for systems with a hot water tank, and it will control both. Nest hot water scheduling and boosting is identical to a normal programmer, however the heating side works differently. Your heating would always be ‘on’ in a traditional sense, however you set timed temperatures to define when this is, e.g. you might set it to 15/16 at night, and it won’t come on, and set it to 20/21 in the evening etc. Think of it like your heating becomes ‘temperature’ scheduled.
Must the boilers clock timer be removed if adding a Nest system?
Roger S You could add a Nest and just stick the boiler timeclock onto always on (some boilers have an override, some need ‘programming’ to be always on). This would make the timeclock redundant and Nest would take over schedules and temperatures.
I like it
My thermostat won't turn on any ideas? And advice would be great 👍
What boiler is it?
@@SkillBuilder hi thanks for the quick response its a vaillant the heatlink is turning the heating on and off but the thermostat isn't turning on just a blank screen when plugged in to the stand and a Amber flashing light when plugged in to micro USB
I wouldn’t usually, but today I’m playing grumpy git!
Does that boiler not have opentherm? The thermostat is hardly smart if it’s just throwing on/off signals to the boiler! Noticeable efficiency methods come from true compensation methods, like room or weather comp.
The Baxi 600 is open therm not the Platinum.
Skill Builder Seems like they’ve missed a trick then. Why choose this over the 600 or 800 range? Does the platinum still have a Stainless hex and brass internals?
@@josephrowley2172 yeah still all brass, copper and stainless build. The platinum does not have opentherm, the 600/800 series is just utter trash and looks terrible. The platinum is in my mind one of the best boiler ever, coming from a engineer point of view
can i get one of tese for my wood heater
Eh..? Hold on.. the heat link replaces the existing thermostat but the heat link needs to be within 30cm of the boiler? I’ve never seen a thermostat 30cm from a boiler..
?
At least 30cm away from the boiler....
You don’t need the chisel either, Back the nuts off and connect them all to the bottom of the boiler first. 👍
Hi Allen
We watch your channel, good stuff. The wall wasn't flat so there was a slight twist in the jig. The chisel brought that bottom right hand corner out enough to get the nuts on. I always back them off but it can be a pig if the wall is not completely flat.
Skill Builder You do not need a chisel. I have installed hundreds of them,
@@AllenHart999 The chisel made the job easier and was, obviously, removed once the connection was made.
I can't see that it did any harm. I did back all the nuts off as I said in the video but it was still a little bit out.
My plumber missed out on his 15 quid scrapping the old boiler, some nice Eastern European lady took it away in her pushchair, should have come back sooner.
Shaun, some years ago I took a 120,000 btu Ideal floor mounted boiler out of a job and managed just about to get it near the front of the property, within 20 minutes an Eastern European lad knocked and very politely asked if he could have the boiler for scrap, He backed over his truck, so I said I would help him lift it on. He said no Sir it is not for you to lift as I have help, he then called his wife from the truck, who was ( and i'm not joking) heavily pregnant......She had no hesitation about helping him, I insisted that if he made her lift it, he couldn't have it.
we slung it on just about between us and off they went, I bet, she was stronger than I was. Might have been the Same girl.
the 10 year warranty is only valid if you get your boiler serviced every year. if you don't do that then you're out of luck if the boiler breaks down.
That is true but the service is only usually a flue gas analyser ticket.
Skill Builder not true
Skill Builder sorry mate not true. The service is what the manufacturer requires in the installation guide. It’s a full service nowadays requiring a strip down and inspection of hex, electrodes etc, etc. These 10 year warranty’s comes at a price.
@@copperskills3973 thats why i dont bother and just pay british gas boiler cover
Does Nest do multi zone yet? If you have rads and water underfloor you need multi zone otherwise boiler plus waist of time as efficiently will be lost as the two zones have different demands on the boiler and heating time. I had been looking at Hive for that reason
Just seen only single zone, so Nest still no good if you have multi zone as you lose the benefits of Geolocation and remote facilites
Relying always on WiFi connectivity doesn't seem the most reliable way to go, quite honestly.
it works offline, itll revert to your common profles ,id never go out of my wayto buy or pay for such a thing though, i prefer the cold more than the heat so i like manual control only
Nick - I rely on my paid servant to swing the fan and keep me cool. After all relying on electricity isn’t the most reliable way to go.
who's the tea bag sponsor Roger.
Yorkshire tea is our favourite brew but we haven't asked, maybe we should.
What terminals did you connect to, ffs
Should have fitted a decent boiler like a Worcester Bosch 😉
matt adams This boiler is better than any Worcester
Harry Potter has a new boiler!
at 13:45 the live is in C and neutral in NO, so why do they do it the other way around here: ruclips.net/video/g8nb8IuWUDw/видео.html
It makes no difference. It is a switch and when the contact closes they are both live. If it had a shunt like the old thermostats you would need to put the live in the right side to activate the heating element.
hey roger how about that hard hat i will pay the postage if you send me one
We have run out. We may start selling them.
Too much working out at the gym makes a person excessively polite!
well if you do decide to sell them let me know please
The best is a load of crap. Try having heating on for an hour at a specific time of the day. Impossible on the nest.
If you're cold put the heating on, if it's not cold keep the heating off. Don't need some cloud spying device to indicate when the heating needs to be turned on. Great vid otherwise.
Why you adding the nest when you already have hive
The nest controls the heating. The customer didn't have that before.
Remember sheep.........COMPLY.....it is for you health................................................................
Still powered by gas! Just installed an airsource heat pump on my latest renovation project.
Gas is out, for dinosaurs. Start promoting renewables instead and they will come down in price.
I have installed a few air source and in the winter you need to boost the heat with an immersion heater. The only way they are viable is if there is no mains gas and the alternative is very expensive. If the house was new build and had very high levels of insulation and air tightness then an air source heat pump would work but in a renovation you have to do huge amounts of work to lower the heat loss.
I have a nest thermostat. It is truly terrible.
acid I have one and I love it..
sorry, just had to skip the 5min advert!!!!!!!!!
I like your videos but this one is pointless because the man at home can’t fit this. The google part is interesting but the wiring up is what you want to see. Criticism is meant constructively.
We are primarily a trade channel. We welcome DIYers but it isn't our reason for being.
I wish he would do my plumbing.
The best is a load of crap. Try having heating on for an hour at a specific time of the day. Impossible on the nest.