You could be a lecturer rather than a builder. The way you explain in every clips are extraordinary and easy to understand. You make us understand very well .
As a carpenter i feel blessed that i designed and fitted my own underfloor heating and its the best thing i have ever done on my house renovation , cheers Roger i also put a 160 mm of silver foil insulation in my ceiling , top video many thanks .
Really enjoy your videos. I would like to mention a couple of points on this one, as heat transfer is a subject of personal interest. 1) 6:02 For those interested in a bit more detail, essentially the greater the temperature of air, the less dense it becomes (ideal gas law). Temperature is a measure of how much molecules vibrate and jiggle around. The hotter the something is, the more its molecules vibrate and space apart, the less dense it becomes. If something is less dense it rises, if something is more dense it sinks. Perhaps the phrase 'hotter air rises' better describes these buoyancy-driven flows. 2) 12:07 I agree that conventional radiators are transferring heat through convection (which is buoyancy-driven), but I suspect convection is still responsible for a large part of the heat transfer from underfloor heating systems too. Radiation is not likely to transfer as much heat as you might think as it is only emitted in significant quantities at very high temperatures (as it scales with temperature to the power 4!). 3) 21:30 An air gap is a great thermal insulator because you've created basically something similar to the walls of a flask. Conduction and convection are both poor in a narrow air gap, and radiation is not effective at these temperatures. Also, anything solid is likely to be opaque to radiation, and it's typically absorbed within the first millimeter or so of hitting a solid body. Interestingly glass is transparent to visible radiation (light) but opaque to infrared! 95% on point! A great explanation of heat transfer within the home for the layman!
Great video for those who are considering using heat pumps instead of oil or gas boilers. Clearly a lot of older type properties aren't insulated to the levels you've demonstrated, the fabric heat loss will undermine the required core temperature of the home and will never be met by refrigeration heat pumps supplying either underfloor heating or radiators. The COP of these machines in power terms cannot match the temperatures of conventional water boilers, and thus the heat loss would exceed the level of heat required ... without the insulation methods you've mentioned.
Best communicator on any subject - Sensitivity - Integrity - Clarity - Comprehensive - Methodical - Entertaining - Natural - Great morale booster! - Ought to be in Parliament or Privy Council - Admiral - Philosopher - Entertainer!
This has to the most informative superbly presented video that I have ever watched regarding heat. I can’t believe how little I actually knew. To talk for so long about a physics subject and have me riveted says just how well you presented it.
Another fabulous white board session from Roger. I know a bit from years being a maintenance engineer / home mender. What you and Robin do is de-mystify all the ballcocks spouted by charalatans for the pro and the home owner. I am entertained and learn something every time watching your tubes. I cant learn 30 years of carpentry or plumbing in a 10 minute vid, but you both have seen it all and want to share your journey. Thanks
So if the radiated heat is bouncing off the earth and then being trapped in the ozone layer becos of methane gases and carbon gases, how come these same gases dont stop it getting through in the first place??
I knew about the air gap between insulation and the roof slates, however despite looking at numerous videos of ways of loft conversions and the insulating, none have mentioned the air gap on the other side. Good tip!!! thanks
The thermal resistance (R value) of a layer of still air R can be calculated and used in a U value calculation just as with conventional insulation materials. If the air gap is narrow, then there won’t be convection currents transporting heat across it, and if one of the adjacent surfaces is shiny then radiant heat will be reflected. For example, a 20mm air gap next to the shiny outer surface of Silver foil can have its R value enhanced by a factor of 3 (BS EN ISO 6946 calculation method). And the air comes free!
I have learnt more about physics in this video than I did all those years ago at school. Or maybe I did learn it & forgot it but a fascinating & a very practical insight, thank you.
I made my 14 year old son watch this, he diddnt pay any attention. If Rodger were your science teacher in school, would the 15 year old you have listened? Or as you don't seem to have chosen plumbing as a career, would you have asked the question "I'm not going to be a plumber, so why do i need to know this?" Education is wasted on the youth. But education is the most important thing in youth.
Thanks for the video. Wanted to mention that when heating a room via a radiator or floor heating the solid part of the room is heated first, due to the molecule structure, but air will be heated to the set point temperature which is why all the home thermostats are measuring the air temperature and not the wall temperature or the floor.
Every day is a school day this is your best video yet Roger .lots of great info and delivered at speed which is a great bonus compared to lots of other slow laborious offerings keep up the good work.very informative
We're about to buy a 1910s house that needs significant work to the subfloors and a suspected damp problem. This was a very useful video for me! I'm very keen to improve the warmth of the place as much as possible during renovation, knowing how heat moves in these different ways and how to insulate efficiently makes me a lot more confident choosing workmen or doing it ourselves.
Brilliant presentation Roger, thank you, so accessible for the masses. I have to quickly tell you my experience of my own hands on self build. Single storey, vaulted ceiling, suspended timber floor, insulated very much as you describe, 2x110mm Kingspan between rafters and floor joists. (Rafters are 12x2). Water underfloor heating from ASHP. HERE’S THE SIGNIFICANT BIT! I only need to heat the underfloor water to 25-30°C to maintain 21°C in the house no matter what the temperature outside. So two points to take from this, firstly the principles you are teaching are solid and proven to work. Second, I’ve noticed that ASHP underfloor water temperatures tend to be set too high. This doesn’t achieve a higher room temperature but just burns more fuel. I adjusted mine down and down over several days to find the lowest water temperature that maintained the 21°C room temperature. Best wishes, Jim. S Bucks.
Top notch teacher, Roger is! You know this when you listen to a topic that would never normally interest you...never again will I say, "hot air rises"!
Fabulous video as always - such a tremendous wealth of knowledge and understanding, delivered in a down to earth way, by someone who has direct hands-on experience. Thank you!
You are a very good teacher! I also loved the spot on reference to Dads who come over looking to fix everything - that was mine & I miss him every day, so thank you!
Great video. My best house investment was during a lower floor upgrade was to rip out all 90% of my downstairs radiators and install overlay underfloor heating and then tiling most of the lower floor. The only downstairs radiator was replaced with a very large aluminium radiator in the lounge because we wanted carpets. All upper radiator were left and smart WiFi valves were installed across the house. The whole house operates from a Central Honeywell tablet controller with multiple underfloor zones and bedroom zones. It is Internet linked to also know outside temperture and thus back off or increase heat as required. The difference in the comfort is incredible. As he says underfloor is a different but very nice type of heat. We now run the boiler at 55 Deg instead of 72 Deg for radiators. Underfloor wide mixer runs at 45Deg. We have a anti mould additive in the system but once a month I up temp to 60% just to make sure we get no growth. Lower bills better comfort and the ability to control the system from my phone. Cannot recommend it enough. We also have double loft insulation, cavity wall and full double glazing. It is a 1976 house but after the update our energy cost dropped by 50%. A further advantage is that during the summer the house is cooler due to the large tile area. If you do nothing else install underfloor heating and smart control your house.
How much did it cost you to do this approx.? We bought a 60s house and did all the flooring before moving in. Now the winter has hit and the house is very difficult to heat up (it also has sold walls)
@@gabeanthony8910 you might like to dryline the inside of the exterior walls with a foam sided plasterboard , it's often called dob and dab as that's how it stuck to the wall,you can get varying thickness of the foam insulation. We did our single skin houses in France and UK with this method , just doing 1 room at a time. Makes a lot of difference and not hard to do.good luck
Thank you for this easy understandable explaination of heating systems, as I always lived in appartements with central heating (air) converters creating steamy window glasses, from my childhood until today. a) Underfloor heating: big installation effort/costs, rare in affordable rental appartements, constant heat energy base line heating, its greater inertia can react too slow compared with other smaller sized heating body/radiators. Options for Underfloor heating: additional small & selectively fast reacting heater (e. g. electric Infrared / Radiator), fedable by energy storage from renewable energy source (e. g. PV+Battery or solar thermal collector + warm water storage). b) Air heating: interesting combination with air filter & air heat exchanger, needing air fans and air pipes so for new installation upgrading to house energy saving standard. Options for air heating: Cooling in summertime, fedable by energy storage from renewable energy source (e. g. PV+Battery or solar thermal collector + warm water storage). c) Old house expirience: missing bathroom heating added by electrical radiator; for children in winter time warming the bathroom, to avoid freezing after washing/shower/taking a bath, as we did when renting old house appartement (1999-2004).
Brilliant video, I have an old house with floor boards and my feet feel cold but with only 10 inches below the floor joists I can't get under to put rock wool in. I am considering taking the whole floor up to insulate it . Maybe even looking into taking the "radiator" out and doing underfloor heating in the living room ........a job for next summer 😁
This makes me feel good about spending the extra on underfloor insulation (taped Celotex panels, with ply on top, then the floorboards on top of that) when I had my late 1800s terraced house renovated (and also the ventilation bricks were redone properly). Really makes a difference, especially as I took some internal walls out and made the downstairs open plan, which is not the most favourable thing to do in terms of keeping heat in.
@Richard L Well, there wasn’t enough of them, or they were blocked. The front only had one, and the back similar. Now we’ve got 3 at the front, and a complete row at the back, allowing a good airflow under the house, which is extra important now the floor is sealed.
Roger is absolutely wonderful, brilliant,he is like I dunno,can you imagine him ,as teacher,headmaster etc politician,, etc because this guy is so knowledgeable, clever ,these are the guys that should be running things,
Found that very useful! Thank you. I’m a Handyman but also a homeowner and so glad I stumbled on your channel. I have an issue with damp in my kitchen and it’s very interesting theory regarding your spot light which I have lots of! I’ve been searching for a leak and unable to find one! I’ll also fit an extractor which I haven’t got either. Lots of good advice so thank you guys 😊
Talking to an old man who lives alone, in the pub at the weekend how the high energy prices and insulation are affecting him. He said they are not affecting him at all, all he does is not put any heating on and sit in a coat, he said it doesn't really get all that cold in the UK anyway, the trouble is most people are just soft these days.
Great information and explanation! I’m in the US! Still use inches, foot an miles, not mm, cm and Km which is much simpler than fractions of 1 inch Conversion of mm to inches, 10mm = .393” closer to 3/8”, 20mm = .787” or .75” or 3/4”, 25mm -= .98” almost 1” or 63/64 of an inch which nobody in the United States uses ever! In essence the conversions I provided will give you a better understanding 10 mm is closer to 3/8”, 20 mm is very close to 3/4” and 25 mm is extremely close to 1 inch!
Hello Roger, I have just watched your video and it was really excellent, I learned so much from this and a lot about heat I didn't know! I was thinking of insulating my suspended ground floor with rockwool and you now have confirmed for me that I will definitely do this. Thanking you from Ireland a new subscriber. 🙂
This is actually incredible, informative and the bit about the ‘dad and the radiator story’ was hilarious... “Radiator needs bleeding son” 😂😂 I watch a lot of videos on the channel but this is probably one of my favourites for many reasons on Skill Builder so thank you 👍
Great video as usual! Underfloor heating is really good, but a few things some people may consider... You will have warm feet while your head is slightly cooler. Some people, like me, don't really like the feeling. I have heard about health problems related to that but can not confirm the truth of these claims. You will get some convection going and thereby eventually blow up dust that's laying on the floor. People with certain allergies may have problems with that. An alternative could be to put your heating pipes on the outer walls. The obvious downsides of that is that you should not put large furniture in front of the heated walls, blocking the radiation. Also an adequate insulation on the outer walls is necessary! I personally have set my heating pipes in a thick clay mortar on the outer walls and could not be happier. The tempering of the usually cold outside walls gives a fantastic feeling inside, I actually have lower temperatures now while feeling comfortable. Also the clay mortar has a high thermal capacity and great moisture regulation. No more condensing on my windows. Maybe some people find this informative, as many people I meet don't know about wall heating. Cheers 🍻
I did not expect to enjoy this that much! Although informative, I cannot care less about the topic because I live in Qatar and it is warm all year around. But this guy, I dont mind listening to him talk all day long, something special about him. 🌞
Fantastic video! - we have converted a 60's bungalow into a 1.5 story house and the 1st floor is all in the roof with the eves level at 1200mm and the rest of the room has a sloping ceiling. Now the new build part is all timber frame with ooodles of insulation in between the studs and a 25mm blanket to the outer walls and ceilings like you mentioned (wish I had seen this video before installing the 120mm PIR in between all the 9" rafters! - Anyway - in the bathroom there is only 1 plastered and painted wall which is an external wall, but on a cold day after a shower you can see small condensation dots on that wall from the plasterboard fixings which are screwed through the plasterboard, through the 25mm PIR and into the 150mm wall studs! It's so annoying that after all the lengths you go to to stop condensation it finds the heads of the screws that fix the plasterboard! the rest of the walls are floor to ceiling tiling. It is amazing how easy cold bridging can occur. - We did the netting and rockwool on all our ground floor floors, but took up the floor as needed to lag all the radiator pipes and re-wire the sockets so was the easiest option. When we put the flooring back down, we also put a DPM and a new chipboard floor over the old one also. Our cavity is only 50mm and can't be retro filled, so each room has been sandwiched with 25mm PIR to any external wall and plasterboarded - We have had to downsize the rads as even simply turning them down was not enough to prevent the room over heating very easily. Insulate - insulate insulate! I can't recommend it enough.
I'm affraid the downsizing of the rads is something you've been told to believe so you'd buy new radiators. There are very very few cases where a radiator could be too large and it won't be with the level of insulation you're describing. In all other cases, the bigger the radiator the better, you can lower the flow temperature to the point the radiator only delivers a fraction of the heat and you can reduce the flow speed to the point there's barely any heat energy being pumped into the radiator, both ways are better to conserve energy and increase the efficiency of your boiler than using small radiators with high temp and high flow. Ofcourse your energy consumption will have dropped drastically with better comfort thanks to the insulation, but it's a shame they willingly made you reduce the efficiency of your heating system, that's 2 steps forwards and 1 step back while it could have been 3 steps forward...
The back addition was built over crawl space. Plastic, gravel on dirt. Foam boards on walls. The space has lots of plumbing and runs to baseboard so reluctant to put insulation between joists and have pipes freeze. Floors are indeed cold in winter. I used heavy mats or rugs on most of the floor areas and that keeps them quite comfortable.
Brilliant video. Perfectly explained. You should do a review of skirting board heating. A less disruptive alternative to underfloor heating which can be plugged into existing central heating systems.
Well there's a company called discrete heat which seems to have really good reviews on their wet system, aesthetically aswell. Case studies and everything i can find on their system looks impressive and a "too good to be true" cord is struck. Which is why I think a proper independent review would be good for balance. As underfloor heating is a nice dream but just not really a sensible economical option for anything but the major renovations and alot of people (myself included) are looking at this as a mid-way radiant heat, wall space saving option for their properties. Just one for the suggestion box 👌.
Insulation is my game, so great on Roger giving tips on insulating under the floor as it brings great value for your money - but, what I do in my rentals, I insulate under the floor, with the netting, but then above, if money allows - I remove the skirting and then plywood everywhere over the old leaky floorboards and then I buy tesco-vana air tightness tape and tape around the perimeter (plywood to wall) and then all the plywood butt joints. Plywood can be expensive now, but you can get 6mm for about eight quid a sheet and you will recover your money in a couple of years, but the comfort level with the insulation and air tightness is amazing. I would then go for really good underlay (as best as you can afford), ensure thats butted right up against the wall and then install your carpet. Veer away from laminates, wooden flooring etc if your living or sitting room is cold.
The worst flaw I've found in my house's insulation was the air flowing through the 3/4" gap between the drywall and the concrete blocks. On the coldest day of the year, you could feel exactly where they were, so I'd start drilling rows of holes in the middle of the coldest area and injecting expanding foam in each hole until it came out a bit in the next hole. Over time, I've run out of such areas, so the job is mostly done. If the house had been built more carefully, this would not have been needed, but I think they left the gaps open at the top, allowing air from the attic to fall down through the gaps.
All of my downstairs floors (wooden suspended floor), I removed all the skirting, put down plywood and taped all of the butt joints and the wall/floor junctions with the tape too. Tescon Vana air tightness tape. Took the window surrounds off and filled them all with icynene foam (expanding) and then taped up with the tescon vana too. I will insulate under the floor next year too.
Great info again Roger. There are millions of people out there with no idea. Insulating tip for wooden floors, fix 2x1's to bottom of joist and slot celotex in between joists. Job done 👍
In the case of your home with an air space under the ground floor. The Canadian approach (-25degC winters), would be to apply insulation as you did, but to also apply a 6mil thick vapour barrier across the joists, sealed (with acoustic seal) to adjacent walls and joined together with special tape, to ensure a completely draft-proof barrier. Then the floor boards would go over that. As you said, the reason why your room felt so much warmer (despite the fact that heat loss through the floor isn’t that great), is not because of the R value of the insulation, but because the insulation considerably reduced the drafts. If all you did was apply vapour barrier (and no insulation), you would also notice a very significant improvement. But both together work the best.
@@speedy99112 Asking, because main floor above basement is always chilly to me. Basement is solid; well built and 8’ ceilings. To clarify, you mean when drywalling the basement ceiling, the insulin goes between the joints, then sealed against the bottom of the joists is the 6 mm poly vapour barrier, then drywall, screwed, edges taped and mudded, correct?
@@marlenegold280 actually, my original post was regarding an unfinished and ‘open to the elements’ crawl space under a house. A finished basement (as you describe in your own scenario) is a completely different situation. You can not seal off your basement from your main floor in the same way, as it is living space and therefore has certain access points (stair well, doors etc) to the main floor above. Adding vapour barrier in the ceiling would provide some heat benefit to the main floor, but it would create various other problems (potential for condensation and mould). Vapour barrier is actually used, to eliminate air flow. The air flow from your basement is cold, but not so cold that adding valour barrier would help very much. A better approach in your scenario, is simply to insulate the basement ceiling with either regular batt insulation or something like Roxul. Removing the ceiling and replacing it, is expensive but the insulation is cheap and easy to install.
Underfloor insulation; "If you can find a mug to do it!" My eldest was persuaded as part of a painting of their bedroom walls and ceiling. In a room with a bay and two dwarf walls, it was an extremely tight and filthy job. We stuck and stapled gaffer-tape across the bottoms of the joists to support the insulation. They started what they thought was a simple painting job in November but we have only just finished in mid February! The job list was long and included remodelling of the fireplace and repairs to both bay roofs.
Yep, it's no fun fitting insulation between floor joints, did this in my 60's built property it was a horrible job to, made worse as the sub floor went from kneeling height at one end, to crawling height at tge other. The only good side to it was the timing, they were just about giving away three packs of insulation at the local DIY store.
Great video Roger and a useful indication for a hierarchy of minor improvements that together will effectively improve comfort while also reducing heating costs. I would love to hear your thoughts on the advisability or otherwise of installing 4mm thick Thermal Liner to the inside of 600mm thick external stone walls?
Another brilliant video Roger, so nice to hear someone talking intelligently and scientifically as regards heating and insulation, love the air gap tip in the ceiling, had not thought of that, will be doing it in future. All you builders and plumbers out there, take a leaf out of Rogers book, he's a clever bloke, obviously reads books, educates himself and makes full use of his brain. As i try to convey to my son, try and have a big brain not a big head. Obviously the country is struggling at the moment but there is huge volumes of work to be had improving household heating, ventilation and insulation.
Spent some time in the floor void under my house insulating with mineral wool too. Nasty job but well worth it. Did see something eerily moving down there but just as I was about to evacuate it turned out the cat has gone down exploring and was heading my was covered in cobwebs 😂. Great video as always, thank you.
Skill Builder I’d left a mouse trap down there as thought the same as had a large hole in one of the old iron air bricks. Luckily no takers for the cheese 🧀
Thanks Roger, very informative. I've meaning to insulate my suspender timber floor for some time. I've been putting it off because of the hassle factor as you mentioned. I've heard that moisture can build up in the insulation if you get it wrong. I'd be interested in your view on this and whether there are any do's and don'ts. Ta.
Hi Steve I don't see moisture being a problem. The dew point is on the cold side of the insulation and that is where the air flow through the void is. I don't think the insulation causes any issues. I have seen it used in many jobs.
@@SkillBuilder what about people using kingspan etc and taping it to to joists with aluminium tape If there are any gaps i would have thought it would eventually rot.
You need a moisture barrier on the warm side of the insulation to stop humid air travelling through the rock wool and condensing into water at the lower edge of the joints. = wet rot turning to dry rot. Or maybe kingspan with a foil top surface. With an 25 mm air gap to bounce back any infra red back to the floor boards.
I had as Saturday morning spot on LBC radio for 15 years until the sold the channel and decided to concentrate on politics. Not a bad decision for them but the gap in the market is there for someone to do a good building related phone in.
I haven’t even watched this video in full yet but I know it’ll be full of great advice, sound science, passion, knowledge and skill. Big up ya self boiy. Respect. 👊🏼
I`m watching this at 32 c here in the tropics where my problem is almost opposite to you lot in the UK. I think,this video has helped and I have learned something new.. I always thought that heat rises regardless. Cheers S.B!
Good video; common convector radiators are both convectors and radiators combined as they still have a warm panel facing the room. People should also look at the outside and lop any shrubs and trees that shade the house.. makes a huge difference as the house will store energy.
@@SkillBuilder First law and all that; its relative to the ambient temp as the nearer the convector temp is to room temp the less transfer from them and so the hotter the panel gets so the more it radiates. Still not a huge amount I agree.
Your definitely not failing us lads, I love the videos guys, unbelievably helpful, keep up the good work, I might be able to build my house by myself soon😂
One of your best and most informative videos yet. There where a couple of points I didn't know so also helpful. A suggestion from me, just my opinion NOT a complaint, but it would be well cool if between you and your chippy mate you did some in detail on site demos of different types of new insulation boards and multifoils with required U values. I'm starting my own loft conversion soon and have got to swot up on the latest building regs and your vids are very useful. 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Hi Tony I will do something on multifoils for sure. I had some big arguments with those guys back in the day. They were over sold and some claims could not be substatiated. They seem to have become more realistic now.
@@SkillBuilder I just found a vid on an advert with Rob using an Insulation Buster, a cutting blade that fits to a multi tool and neatly and accurately cuts thermal board. Wow, wotta tool. (the blade I mean 😁😁), you must check it out.
I used a scorpion ? type power saw with - very important - the sawblade ground to a 'breadknife' profile, taking the teeth off from each side. This was dust-free, quick and safe, to cut 90sq m of 120mm thick panels. An actual breadknife for trimming is also helpful.
No matter whether Roger shows you how to bleed a radiator or explains you the 2nd Law of Thermodynamics, he is always a pleasure to listen to.
Very true I could listen to Roger all day a wealth of knowledge.
He certainly is. What a treat to listen to high-speed, unadulterated, "call-a-spade-a-spade" English... PLUS NO background music! BBC take note.
He should do bedtime stories.
You could be a lecturer rather than a builder.
The way you explain in every clips are extraordinary and easy to understand.
You make us understand very well .
Physics, explained by a builder! It's makes so much more sense coming from Roger.
You are National Treasure Roger. Love your passion for the construction industry and always learn something
As a carpenter i feel blessed that i designed and fitted my own underfloor heating and its the best thing i have ever done on my house renovation , cheers Roger i also put a 160 mm of silver foil insulation in my ceiling , top video many thanks .
Whst ceiling? Roof or in ea?ch room
This video should be on the National Curriculum to educate the next generation on how to minimise their energy usage.
Wouldn't it be better to encourage the next generation to use the biggest natural generator (the sun) to harness more electricity from it.
Really enjoy your videos. I would like to mention a couple of points on this one, as heat transfer is a subject of personal interest.
1) 6:02 For those interested in a bit more detail, essentially the greater the temperature of air, the less dense it becomes (ideal gas law). Temperature is a measure of how much molecules vibrate and jiggle around. The hotter the something is, the more its molecules vibrate and space apart, the less dense it becomes. If something is less dense it rises, if something is more dense it sinks. Perhaps the phrase 'hotter air rises' better describes these buoyancy-driven flows.
2) 12:07 I agree that conventional radiators are transferring heat through convection (which is buoyancy-driven), but I suspect convection is still responsible for a large part of the heat transfer from underfloor heating systems too. Radiation is not likely to transfer as much heat as you might think as it is only emitted in significant quantities at very high temperatures (as it scales with temperature to the power 4!).
3) 21:30 An air gap is a great thermal insulator because you've created basically something similar to the walls of a flask. Conduction and convection are both poor in a narrow air gap, and radiation is not effective at these temperatures. Also, anything solid is likely to be opaque to radiation, and it's typically absorbed within the first millimeter or so of hitting a solid body. Interestingly glass is transparent to visible radiation (light) but opaque to infrared!
95% on point! A great explanation of heat transfer within the home for the layman!
Spot on, if underfloor was only radiated heat there's not much point in each room/zone having a "Air Temperature Sensor" thanks for the detail...
I agree .
Great video for those who are considering using heat pumps instead of oil or gas boilers. Clearly a lot of older type properties aren't insulated to the levels you've demonstrated, the fabric heat loss will undermine the required core temperature of the home and will never be met by refrigeration heat pumps supplying either underfloor heating or radiators. The COP of these machines in power terms cannot match the temperatures of conventional water boilers, and thus the heat loss would exceed the level of heat required ... without the insulation methods you've mentioned.
Roger is always a pleasure to listen to. He should have been a University lecturer. Excellent.
I can clearly see him sitting thoughtfully and sympathetically as a member of the Privy Council - or as a great Labour Party parliamentary leader!
Best communicator on any subject - Sensitivity - Integrity - Clarity - Comprehensive - Methodical - Entertaining - Natural - Great morale booster! - Ought to be in Parliament or Privy Council - Admiral - Philosopher - Entertainer!
Wow, thank you! I could not claim to be half those things but I am happy to hear it.
This has to the most informative superbly presented video that I have ever watched regarding heat. I can’t believe how little I actually knew. To talk for so long about a physics subject and have me riveted says just how well you presented it.
Yes very informative
Another fabulous white board session from Roger.
I know a bit from years being a maintenance engineer / home mender. What you and Robin do is de-mystify all the ballcocks spouted by charalatans for the pro and the home owner. I am entertained and learn something every time watching your tubes. I cant learn 30 years of carpentry or plumbing in a 10 minute vid, but you both have seen it all and want to share your journey.
Thanks
So if the radiated heat is bouncing off the earth and then being trapped in the ozone layer becos of methane gases and carbon gases, how come these same gases dont stop it getting through in the first place??
I knew about the air gap between insulation and the roof slates, however despite looking at numerous videos of ways of loft conversions and the insulating, none have mentioned the air gap on the other side. Good tip!!! thanks
I know I now feel like a idiot i have kept it flush on the inside. I hope none of the people I've dun kits for see this! Thats a lot of kits
The thermal resistance (R value) of a layer of still air R can be calculated and used in a U value calculation just as with conventional insulation materials. If the air gap is narrow, then there won’t be convection currents transporting heat across it, and if one of the adjacent surfaces is shiny then radiant heat will be reflected. For example, a 20mm air gap next to the shiny outer surface of Silver foil can have its R value enhanced by a factor of 3 (BS EN ISO 6946 calculation method). And the air comes free!
@@SkillBuilder Hit me with English Richard!!!
"It's kind of like a rainbow and you are the pot of gold at the end of it."
Absolute poetry.
Poor bastard in that house, not only is his house cold, he's got rickets too!
I admit he doesn't look well
I have learnt more about physics in this video than I did all those years ago at school.
Or maybe I did learn it & forgot it but a fascinating & a very practical insight, thank you.
I wish you'd been my science teacher at school, Roger. Thank you for yet another high quality video!
I made my 14 year old son watch this, he diddnt pay any attention. If Rodger were your science teacher in school, would the 15 year old you have listened?
Or as you don't seem to have chosen plumbing as a career, would you have asked the question "I'm not going to be a plumber, so why do i need to know this?"
Education is wasted on the youth. But education is the most important thing in youth.
Thanks for the video. Wanted to mention that when heating a room via a radiator or floor heating the solid part of the room is heated first, due to the molecule structure, but air will be heated to the set point temperature which is why all the home thermostats are measuring the air temperature and not the wall temperature or the floor.
Every day is a school day this is your best video yet Roger .lots of great info and delivered at speed which is a great bonus compared to lots of other slow laborious offerings keep up the good work.very informative
We're about to buy a 1910s house that needs significant work to the subfloors and a suspected damp problem. This was a very useful video for me! I'm very keen to improve the warmth of the place as much as possible during renovation, knowing how heat moves in these different ways and how to insulate efficiently makes me a lot more confident choosing workmen or doing it ourselves.
Brilliant presentation Roger, thank you, so accessible for the masses.
I have to quickly tell you my experience of my own hands on self build. Single storey, vaulted ceiling, suspended timber floor, insulated very much as you describe, 2x110mm Kingspan between rafters and floor joists. (Rafters are 12x2). Water underfloor heating from ASHP.
HERE’S THE SIGNIFICANT BIT! I only need to heat the underfloor water to 25-30°C to maintain 21°C in the house no matter what the temperature outside.
So two points to take from this, firstly the principles you are teaching are solid and proven to work.
Second, I’ve noticed that ASHP underfloor water temperatures tend to be set too high. This doesn’t achieve a higher room temperature but just burns more fuel.
I adjusted mine down and down over several days to find the lowest water temperature that maintained the 21°C room temperature.
Best wishes, Jim. S Bucks.
Top notch teacher, Roger is! You know this when you listen to a topic that would never normally interest you...never again will I say, "hot air rises"!
Fabulous video as always - such a tremendous wealth of knowledge and understanding, delivered in a down to earth way, by someone who has direct hands-on experience. Thank you!
This video shows that NO education is ever wasted, and unlike most classrooms can be both entertaining and humorous, many thanks.
I think I've worked out the identity of banksy
Keep it quiet
You are a very good teacher! I also loved the spot on reference to Dads who come over looking to fix everything - that was mine & I miss him every day, so thank you!
I am one of those dads. Keep the memory of your Dad, he loved you.
Great video. My best house investment was during a lower floor upgrade was to rip out all 90% of my downstairs radiators and install overlay underfloor heating and then tiling most of the lower floor. The only downstairs radiator was replaced with a very large aluminium radiator in the lounge because we wanted carpets. All upper radiator were left and smart WiFi valves were installed across the house. The whole house operates from a Central Honeywell tablet controller with multiple underfloor zones and bedroom zones. It is Internet linked to also know outside temperture and thus back off or increase heat as required. The difference in the comfort is incredible. As he says underfloor is a different but very nice type of heat. We now run the boiler at 55 Deg instead of 72 Deg for radiators. Underfloor wide mixer runs at 45Deg. We have a anti mould additive in the system but once a month I up temp to 60% just to make sure we get no growth. Lower bills better comfort and the ability to control the system from my phone. Cannot recommend it enough. We also have double loft insulation, cavity wall and full double glazing. It is a 1976 house but after the update our energy cost dropped by 50%. A further advantage is that during the summer the house is cooler due to the large tile area. If you do nothing else install underfloor heating and smart control your house.
How much did it cost you to do this approx.? We bought a 60s house and did all the flooring before moving in. Now the winter has hit and the house is very difficult to heat up (it also has sold walls)
@@gabeanthony8910 you might like to dryline the inside of the exterior walls with a foam sided plasterboard , it's often called dob and dab as that's how it stuck to the wall,you can get varying thickness of the foam insulation. We did our single skin houses in France and UK with this method , just doing 1 room at a time. Makes a lot of difference and not hard to do.good luck
Thank you for this easy understandable explaination of heating systems, as I always lived in appartements with central heating (air) converters creating steamy window glasses, from my childhood until today.
a) Underfloor heating: big installation effort/costs, rare in affordable rental appartements, constant heat energy base line heating, its greater inertia can react too slow compared with other smaller sized heating body/radiators.
Options for Underfloor heating: additional small & selectively fast reacting heater (e. g. electric Infrared / Radiator), fedable by energy storage from renewable energy source (e. g. PV+Battery or solar thermal collector + warm water storage).
b) Air heating: interesting combination with air filter & air heat exchanger, needing air fans and air pipes so for new installation upgrading to house energy saving standard.
Options for air heating: Cooling in summertime, fedable by energy storage from renewable energy source (e. g. PV+Battery or solar thermal collector + warm water storage).
c) Old house expirience: missing bathroom heating added by electrical radiator; for children in winter time warming the bathroom, to avoid freezing after washing/shower/taking a bath, as we did when renting old house appartement (1999-2004).
Brilliant video, I have an old house with floor boards and my feet feel cold but with only 10 inches below the floor joists I can't get under to put rock wool in. I am considering taking the whole floor up to insulate it . Maybe even looking into taking the "radiator" out and doing underfloor heating in the living room ........a job for next summer 😁
Absolute magic, when Roger said "a couple of legs there as well" I nearly fell off my chair with laughter. Brilliant!!
This makes me feel good about spending the extra on underfloor insulation (taped Celotex panels, with ply on top, then the floorboards on top of that) when I had my late 1800s terraced house renovated (and also the ventilation bricks were redone properly). Really makes a difference, especially as I took some internal walls out and made the downstairs open plan, which is not the most favourable thing to do in terms of keeping heat in.
@Richard L Well, there wasn’t enough of them, or they were blocked. The front only had one, and the back similar. Now we’ve got 3 at the front, and a complete row at the back, allowing a good airflow under the house, which is extra important now the floor is sealed.
Roger is absolutely wonderful, brilliant,he is like I dunno,can you imagine him ,as teacher,headmaster etc politician,, etc because this guy is so knowledgeable, clever ,these are the guys that should be running things,
"Wow a half hour long video...never gonna watch all this."
30 minutes later..."Where did that time go??"
I just love the skills in teaching from across the ocean... frank.... funny... intelligent... honest... love it
I appreciate that! Thank you. I have to go and film another one in the morning so I will remember that frank, funny, intelligent, honest.
@@SkillBuilder love your way..your talk..your input. good job and thx
A ceiling fan set to winter settings can also help considerably. It helps to push warm air down.
Yay!
(Hallelujah chorus commences!)
Thanks for the reminder!
It's good to see someone that knows what his taking about and love's his work. Cheers from Portugal!
I did enjoy physics lessons, but they weren’t this interesting at school! Brilliant, thank you.
One of the best videos on youtube thank you Roger.
Found that very useful! Thank you. I’m a Handyman but also a homeowner and so glad I stumbled on your channel. I have an issue with damp in my kitchen and it’s very interesting theory regarding your spot light which I have lots of! I’ve been searching for a leak and unable to find one! I’ll also fit an extractor which I haven’t got either. Lots of good advice so thank you guys 😊
That was one the best presentations that I’ve heard on this.
Talking to an old man who lives alone, in the pub at the weekend how the high energy prices and insulation are affecting him. He said they are not affecting him at all, all he does is not put any heating on and sit in a coat, he said it doesn't really get all that cold in the UK anyway, the trouble is most people are just soft these days.
Try that if you live with a woman
Great information and explanation! I’m in the US! Still use inches, foot an miles, not mm, cm and Km which is much simpler than fractions of 1 inch
Conversion of mm to inches, 10mm = .393” closer to 3/8”, 20mm = .787” or .75” or 3/4”, 25mm -= .98” almost 1” or 63/64 of an inch which nobody in the United States uses ever!
In essence the conversions I provided will give you a better understanding 10 mm is closer to 3/8”, 20 mm is very close to 3/4” and 25 mm is extremely close to 1 inch!
Hello Roger, I have just watched your video and it was really excellent, I learned so much from this and a lot about heat I didn't know!
I was thinking of insulating my suspended ground floor with rockwool and you now have confirmed for me that I will definitely do this.
Thanking you from Ireland a new subscriber. 🙂
Glad it helped
I've only just seen this. Best Skill builder video out there. Absolutely excellent
This is actually incredible, informative and the bit about the ‘dad and the radiator story’ was hilarious... “Radiator needs bleeding son” 😂😂
I watch a lot of videos on the channel but this is probably one of my favourites for many reasons on Skill Builder so thank you 👍
Best explanation of heat, its properties and the physics of it all.
Great video as usual!
Underfloor heating is really good, but a few things some people may consider...
You will have warm feet while your head is slightly cooler. Some people, like me, don't really like the feeling. I have heard about health problems related to that but can not confirm the truth of these claims.
You will get some convection going and thereby eventually blow up dust that's laying on the floor. People with certain allergies may have problems with that.
An alternative could be to put your heating pipes on the outer walls. The obvious downsides of that is that you should not put large furniture in front of the heated walls, blocking the radiation. Also an adequate insulation on the outer walls is necessary!
I personally have set my heating pipes in a thick clay mortar on the outer walls and could not be happier. The tempering of the usually cold outside walls gives a fantastic feeling inside, I actually have lower temperatures now while feeling comfortable.
Also the clay mortar has a high thermal capacity and great moisture regulation. No more condensing on my windows.
Maybe some people find this informative, as many people I meet don't know about wall heating.
Cheers 🍻
I did not expect to enjoy this that much! Although informative, I cannot care less about the topic because I live in Qatar and it is warm all year around. But this guy, I dont mind listening to him talk all day long, something special about him. 🌞
4:17 "Its radiating heat at the square root of ... stuff or .." lol classic great vid
Yes I would say that but it is before the watershed
Fantastic video! - we have converted a 60's bungalow into a 1.5 story house and the 1st floor is all in the roof with the eves level at 1200mm and the rest of the room has a sloping ceiling. Now the new build part is all timber frame with ooodles of insulation in between the studs and a 25mm blanket to the outer walls and ceilings like you mentioned (wish I had seen this video before installing the 120mm PIR in between all the 9" rafters! - Anyway - in the bathroom there is only 1 plastered and painted wall which is an external wall, but on a cold day after a shower you can see small condensation dots on that wall from the plasterboard fixings which are screwed through the plasterboard, through the 25mm PIR and into the 150mm wall studs! It's so annoying that after all the lengths you go to to stop condensation it finds the heads of the screws that fix the plasterboard! the rest of the walls are floor to ceiling tiling. It is amazing how easy cold bridging can occur. - We did the netting and rockwool on all our ground floor floors, but took up the floor as needed to lag all the radiator pipes and re-wire the sockets so was the easiest option. When we put the flooring back down, we also put a DPM and a new chipboard floor over the old one also. Our cavity is only 50mm and can't be retro filled, so each room has been sandwiched with 25mm PIR to any external wall and plasterboarded - We have had to downsize the rads as even simply turning them down was not enough to prevent the room over heating very easily. Insulate - insulate insulate! I can't recommend it enough.
I'm affraid the downsizing of the rads is something you've been told to believe so you'd buy new radiators. There are very very few cases where a radiator could be too large and it won't be with the level of insulation you're describing. In all other cases, the bigger the radiator the better, you can lower the flow temperature to the point the radiator only delivers a fraction of the heat and you can reduce the flow speed to the point there's barely any heat energy being pumped into the radiator, both ways are better to conserve energy and increase the efficiency of your boiler than using small radiators with high temp and high flow.
Ofcourse your energy consumption will have dropped drastically with better comfort thanks to the insulation, but it's a shame they willingly made you reduce the efficiency of your heating system, that's 2 steps forwards and 1 step back while it could have been 3 steps forward...
Very interesting. I always wondered about radiators next to windows etc.
Always learn a lot and it's in plain English so easy to understand. Thanks.
Roger Bisby! I bell your channel. It is so informing and beneficial to watch your down-to-earth explanations. Thank you so much.
The back addition was built over crawl space. Plastic, gravel on dirt. Foam boards on walls. The space has lots of plumbing and runs to baseboard so reluctant to put insulation between joists and have pipes freeze.
Floors are indeed cold in winter. I used heavy mats or rugs on most of the floor areas and that keeps them quite comfortable.
Brilliant video. Perfectly explained.
You should do a review of skirting board heating. A less disruptive alternative to underfloor heating which can be plugged into existing central heating systems.
That is a very interesting one. Never heard of that. 👍
I have seen several skirting heating systems and none have been much good. They also look to industrial.
Well there's a company called discrete heat which seems to have really good reviews on their wet system, aesthetically aswell. Case studies and everything i can find on their system looks impressive and a "too good to be true" cord is struck. Which is why I think a proper independent review would be good for balance.
As underfloor heating is a nice dream but just not really a sensible economical option for anything but the major renovations and alot of people (myself included) are looking at this as a mid-way radiant heat, wall space saving option for their properties. Just one for the suggestion box 👌.
Insulation is my game, so great on Roger giving tips on insulating under the floor as it brings great value for your money - but, what I do in my rentals, I insulate under the floor, with the netting, but then above, if money allows - I remove the skirting and then plywood everywhere over the old leaky floorboards and then I buy tesco-vana air tightness tape and tape around the perimeter (plywood to wall) and then all the plywood butt joints. Plywood can be expensive now, but you can get 6mm for about eight quid a sheet and you will recover your money in a couple of years, but the comfort level with the insulation and air tightness is amazing. I would then go for really good underlay (as best as you can afford), ensure thats butted right up against the wall and then install your carpet. Veer away from laminates, wooden flooring etc if your living or sitting room is cold.
Good advice from the coal face
The worst flaw I've found in my house's insulation was the air flowing through the 3/4" gap between the drywall and the concrete blocks. On the coldest day of the year, you could feel exactly where they were, so I'd start drilling rows of holes in the middle of the coldest area and injecting expanding foam in each hole until it came out a bit in the next hole. Over time, I've run out of such areas, so the job is mostly done. If the house had been built more carefully, this would not have been needed, but I think they left the gaps open at the top, allowing air from the attic to fall down through the gaps.
All of my downstairs floors (wooden suspended floor), I removed all the skirting, put down plywood and taped all of the butt joints and the wall/floor junctions with the tape too. Tescon Vana air tightness tape. Took the window surrounds off and filled them all with icynene foam (expanding) and then taped up with the tescon vana too. I will insulate under the floor next year too.
Great info again Roger. There are millions of people out there with no idea. Insulating tip for wooden floors, fix 2x1's to bottom of joist and slot celotex in between joists. Job done 👍
You are right about the floor but I am talking about doing it without removing the boards.
You're always on a heat with your skills keep it up I always enjoy your skills you're a top man👍keep going!.. God bless!!!.
I appreciate that!
I can listen to this man 24/7. Tonnes of valuable info beautiful explained
This was a practical physics lesson that you should have had at school. I'm more informed now than when I was watching cat videos.
This is so cool. I’m a third generation builder recently started my own company.
This stuff is awesome.
In the case of your home with an air space under the ground floor. The Canadian approach (-25degC winters), would be to apply insulation as you did, but to also apply a 6mil thick vapour barrier across the joists, sealed (with acoustic seal) to adjacent walls and joined together with special tape, to ensure a completely draft-proof barrier. Then the floor boards would go over that.
As you said, the reason why your room felt so much warmer (despite the fact that heat loss through the floor isn’t that great), is not because of the R value of the insulation, but because the insulation considerably reduced the drafts.
If all you did was apply vapour barrier (and no insulation), you would also notice a very significant improvement.
But both together work the best.
The vapour barrier would be on the basement side?
@@marlenegold280 vapour barrier is the last layer before drywall, so the inner most layer of your home (except for drywall)
@@speedy99112
Asking, because main floor above basement is always chilly to me.
Basement is solid; well built and 8’ ceilings.
To clarify, you mean when drywalling the basement ceiling, the insulin goes between the joints, then sealed against the bottom of the joists is the 6 mm poly vapour barrier, then drywall, screwed, edges taped and mudded, correct?
@@marlenegold280 actually, my original post was regarding an unfinished and ‘open to the elements’ crawl space under a house.
A finished basement (as you describe in your own scenario) is a completely different situation. You can not seal off your basement from your main floor in the same way, as it is living space and therefore has certain access points (stair well, doors etc) to the main floor above. Adding vapour barrier in the ceiling would provide some heat benefit to the main floor, but it would create various other problems (potential for condensation and mould). Vapour barrier is actually used, to eliminate air flow. The air flow from your basement is cold, but not so cold that adding valour barrier would help very much.
A better approach in your scenario, is simply to insulate the basement ceiling with either regular batt insulation or something like Roxul. Removing the ceiling and replacing it, is expensive but the insulation is cheap and easy to install.
@@I999-g2s
Good advice, thank you
I remember Roxul used by
Scott McGillivray on his shows.
Underfloor insulation; "If you can find a mug to do it!"
My eldest was persuaded as part of a painting of their bedroom walls and ceiling. In a room with a bay and two dwarf walls, it was an extremely tight and filthy job. We stuck and stapled gaffer-tape across the bottoms of the joists to support the insulation.
They started what they thought was a simple painting job in November but we have only just finished in mid February! The job list was long and included remodelling of the fireplace and repairs to both bay roofs.
Yep, it's no fun fitting insulation between floor joints, did this in my 60's built property it was a horrible job to, made worse as the sub floor went from kneeling height at one end, to crawling height at tge other.
The only good side to it was the timing, they were just about giving away three packs of insulation at the local DIY store.
Great video Roger and a useful indication for a hierarchy of minor improvements that together will effectively improve comfort while also reducing heating costs. I would love to hear your thoughts on the advisability or otherwise of installing 4mm thick Thermal Liner to the inside of 600mm thick external stone walls?
Another brilliant video Roger, so nice to hear someone talking intelligently and scientifically as regards heating and insulation, love the air gap tip in the ceiling, had not thought of that, will be doing it in future. All you builders and plumbers out there, take a leaf out of Rogers book, he's a clever bloke, obviously reads books, educates himself and makes full use of his brain. As i try to convey to my son, try and have a big brain not a big head. Obviously the country is struggling at the moment but there is huge volumes of work to be had improving household heating, ventilation and insulation.
Top lesson Roger ! I wish you’d been my physics teacher..... I would have got an O level 😂
Thanks for this - my living room is exactly how you drew the example and it's *Baltic* at the moment, might be a jaunt down to b&q once payday comes 🤣
I'm 5 minutes in and I think Roger has been on the Sherry lol
Spent some time in the floor void under my house insulating with mineral wool too. Nasty job but well worth it. Did see something eerily moving down there but just as I was about to evacuate it turned out the cat has gone down exploring and was heading my was covered in cobwebs 😂. Great video as always, thank you.
Cats love underfloor voids. Maybe there are mice down there. I have put the floorboards down and left a cat in there before.
Skill Builder I’d left a mouse trap down there as thought the same as had a large hole in one of the old iron air bricks. Luckily no takers for the cheese 🧀
Thanks Roger, very informative. I've meaning to insulate my suspender timber floor for some time. I've been putting it off because of the hassle factor as you mentioned. I've heard that moisture can build up in the insulation if you get it wrong. I'd be interested in your view on this and whether there are any do's and don'ts. Ta.
Hi Steve
I don't see moisture being a problem. The dew point is on the cold side of the insulation and that is where the air flow through the void is. I don't think the insulation causes any issues. I have seen it used in many jobs.
@@SkillBuilder what about people using kingspan etc and taping it to to joists with aluminium tape If there are any gaps i would have thought it would eventually rot.
You need a moisture barrier on the warm side of the insulation to stop humid air travelling through the rock wool and condensing into water at the lower edge of the joints. = wet rot turning to dry rot. Or maybe kingspan with a foil top surface. With an 25 mm air gap to bounce back any infra red back to the floor boards.
Just Great! Thanks, I am in the process of refurbishing a ruined building and will take into account all that!
Why is My House Cold? 🙄 Because of greed..... My pension won`t cover food & bills adequately any more. 🥶
Even less without the winter fuel allowance, thanks Starmer 🤬
I could listen to Roger all day long. This is how all teachers should be. He's fantastic I think. He could do Radio as well haha so listenable.
I had as Saturday morning spot on LBC radio for 15 years until the sold the channel and decided to concentrate on politics. Not a bad decision for them but the gap in the market is there for someone to do a good building related phone in.
@@SkillBuilder I bet your were very popular Roger. A trustworthy builder would be very welcome I should imagine.
The heat is on,its on the street
That was a brilliant video Roger!VERY informative!The knowledge to learn about buildings seems endless!Many thanks 😊👍
I haven’t even watched this video in full yet but I know it’ll be full of great advice, sound science, passion, knowledge and skill. Big up ya self boiy. Respect. 👊🏼
Oh no, that is a lot to live up to. Lower your expectations for a happy life.
@@SkillBuilder Haha I generally do. Take the compliment. There’s lots of crappy videos about. Yours are well made. 👍🏼
Marvelously explained. Knowledgeable teacher. Greetings from Belgium.
Hi Alain
Where abouts in Belgium are you. I often head down the Meuse on my bike
Hi Roger, I live in Flanders near Dendermonde. I took the motorcycle from time to time to ride in the ‘Ardennen’. It has been a while now, however.
Thanks for the information I am currently Insulating my daughter's room and this has helped loads
Glad it was helpful!
I put 1/4 ply over my boards before my new carpet went down. Made a decent difference.
I`m watching this at 32 c here in the tropics where my problem is almost opposite to you lot in the UK.
I think,this video has helped and I have learned something new.. I always thought that heat rises regardless.
Cheers S.B!
Good video; common convector radiators are both convectors and radiators combined as they still have a warm panel facing the room. People should also look at the outside and lop any shrubs and trees that shade the house.. makes a huge difference as the house will store energy.
They have very little radiated heat.
@@SkillBuilder First law and all that; its relative to the ambient temp as the nearer the convector temp is to room temp the less transfer from them and so the hotter the panel gets so the more it radiates. Still not a huge amount I agree.
Educational, Entertaining and Informative - once the founding values of the BBC! Brilliant as ever...
I remember that back in the days of Lord Reith. How far they have sunk.
Sir you are a gentleman and a scholar!
Your definitely not failing us lads, I love the videos guys, unbelievably helpful, keep up the good work, I might be able to build my house by myself soon😂
At school, years ago when asked what 3 ways did heat travel one person answered sincerely "upwards, sideways and downwards" lol
Another brilliant presentation. Knowledge, experience and common sense, so rare but so necessary. Many thanks.
Our under-floor, warm water heating was actually referred to as "radiant heating". It's fantastic.
Why weren’t you a teacher at my school? I might have actually learnt something!!!! Good job - well done 👏
Roger, amazing, informative and entertaining. Thank you so much, every day truly is a school day!
We have concrete floors and when we had the carpets replaced we put a layer of foil down before the underlay which made a big difference.
Fantastic as always. I really appreciate sharing your knowledge and learn a lot from your videos.
Brilliantly described and addictive viewing for anyone that knows the right end of a wrench or screw driver 👍🏻
Roger is a great teacher
Great video very informative, love your delivery, a layman can understand it and it's not boring either.
'It's really quite powerful that sun'.... It is Roger, it is
I have an old house and this was excellent to hear if not to pay to remedy!
Your videos are brilliant 👍🏻 and you’re a gifted communicator 👍🏻 thanks 🙏
Best of form heating is when I also had underfloor heating installed. And more economical to run
One of your best and most informative videos yet. There where a couple of points I didn't know so also helpful.
A suggestion from me, just my opinion NOT a complaint, but it would be well cool if between you and your chippy mate you did some in detail on site demos of different types of new insulation boards and multifoils with required U values. I'm starting my own loft conversion soon and have got to swot up on the latest building regs and your vids are very useful. 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Hi Tony
I will do something on multifoils for sure. I had some big arguments with those guys back in the day. They were over sold and some claims could not be substatiated. They seem to have become more realistic now.
@@SkillBuilder I just found a vid on an advert with Rob using an Insulation Buster, a cutting blade that fits to a multi tool and neatly and accurately cuts thermal board. Wow, wotta tool. (the blade I mean 😁😁), you must check it out.
I used a scorpion ? type power saw with - very important - the sawblade ground to a 'breadknife' profile, taking the teeth off from each side.
This was dust-free, quick and safe, to cut 90sq m of 120mm thick panels. An actual breadknife for trimming is also helpful.