Happy to see I’m not the only one running a kill switch on the positive. Have a dual battery Cummins crewcab. I only need to cut power from starter positive to dash and ignition as a theft device and safety. I just don’t trust old fuse boxes and wiring to leave them hot unattended and didn’t want to add a switch on my 2/0 cable battery setup. I know many say a kill switch should only be put on negative, that wouldn’t work for me unless I put four kill switches. Batteries still need to be grounded to the truck body, not only the engine block according to 12 valve Cummins dual battery wiring diagrams. On my setup I think a kill switch is ok since I won’t be running any cranking amps through it.
You are an absolute life saver. I just bought a half finished drag car and I had the same issue (I didn’t install the cutoff switch.) my first day at the track with it is 3 days away so I will definitely be doing this tomorrow. THANK YOU 🙏🏻
Curious if it did. I realize this opens a can of worms on techniques, and if it's even necessary. Really, it's not necessary, but a good idea in case some wiring goes sideways and you're looking to prevent a fire. Just my thoughts.
@@BadHombreGarage Here is two comments on one forum post between people about what to do. For many people its hard to visualize. The second comment is an idea to reduce long heavy gauge cable. This video set the stage to understand the rest. You are doing the Lord's work sir. "thats what one of the firewall passthrus are for... one for the alt, the other for the starter... all my electrical is going under the dash fuse box and all...oh and the ground is most likely going to be a direct mounted stud going thru the fire wall, no rubber grommet edit... oh i see now, yeah your right.... ok... back to the drawing board...lol i thinkg if i just redirect the alt (+) directly to the battery, that should work..." "One other option you have is to use a constant duty solenoid (80 amp minimum) for the main batt. supply, with the control side switched by a simple toggle switch that you mount at the rear bumper area. that way you dont have to run so much heavy cable to required outside cutoff switch. Also with this system you can wire a ford style inertia switch in series with the toggle sw. If you crash the inertia switch shuts everything down. NHRA wants to be able to shut the car off at the starting line in case of a leak or some other problem the driver or crew are unaware of. As discussed in another thread the Ford inertia switch has not inadvertantly shut my car down, even with 1.5 short times. Also, I had NHRA div. tech man give me the OK on the setup. Hope this helps somehow."
@@BadHombreGarage Okay last thing. This is to help people choose the right solenoid/relay. Of which you may know all of this. Look for an economized one. Initial working amp draw drops to 0.1 amps or less to stay open. Others draw multiple amps continuously.
I got to do the same thing on my foxbody, I wired my cutoff switch per the instructions but I think the diagram was labeled as battery disconnect maybe
Hi, it’s a good video. So you connect one positive wire from the kill switch to the positive wire on your alternator. Then the other side of the kill switch positive as well runs directly to positive on the battery? I’m just making sure I’m understanding and would be doing this correctly.
Nice. Works as it should. I am not going to use a kill switch for everything. But I am going to put in a hidden ignition kill switch. My car will never see a race track.
I don’t think that will accomplish what you want. I believe the alternator wire will still allow feedback to the coil, which would keep the car running.
I think you need a much bigger wire to carry the amps all that length without dulling your fuel pump, head lights, cooling fan etc. You should be running at least a 6 Ga. wire. I like to be safe so I'd run a automotive type, (mega strands), 4 Ga. wire with soldered ends covered by heat shrink. Check out MAD AUTO ELECTRIC for great auto electric advice....
Agree with this Steve. Should be able to carry the amp load of the alternator the distance of your wire. Could definitely see this getting hot and melting. No fuse either? I'm using 0 gauge welding cable for my project. 120amp alternator. No fuse on mine but it is a two feet length. Good luck, thank you for the video!
Curious as how this worked in the long run i did this same thing on mine but i noticed when i killed the switch i still had 5 amps at the alternator. ( when checking with a volt meter) Not sure if this will create a drain and eventually kill a battery?
Chevy made a fusible link tht worked pretty well in the 60's & 70's but by far the best for my 55 chevy drag car with 468/1230 hp with msd 7al box was the old 1964 plymouth or dodge ignition ballast resistor with number 10awg. strainded copper wire.
You know, instead of going the long way around you could have just move the cut off switch to the negative side of the battery. This avoids both the problem you're trying to fix as well as not having two hot terminals on the switch. Why fool around with the positive side?
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. When I had the switch set up through the negative side, it did not shut the engine off when the master switch was turned off; and that is why I wired it this way.
not supposed to kill the car with just battery interrupt. that's the old "is my alternator working" test covered the same thing on the latest Bad Obsession Motorsports video. ruclips.net/video/qM_iXuuwC9M/видео.html just link the coil wire to it if it has terminals on the back or do it like you did. but if you do it this way, the longer the run, the thicker wire you will need. that looks like 8 or maybe 6 or 4 gauge. would prefer a 0 or 00.
Thanks for the additional info Wayne! I'm not too concerned about switching power on this car without many electrical components and no computers... but you're right- I might think differently on something more complex.
@@BadHombreGarage Yea, the power to the cars components will actually be coming off the alt if wired one way. so that long wire will get warm. if you have two long wires or just one with the fuses back by the battery, components will be fed by the battery but long wire from alt will still get warm. thicker is better. (that's what she said)
i was looking for someone how had put in a 300 amp fastronix master disconnect , i like want you did but this switch ties into your ignition (wiring diagram #303-004 2-pole disconnect for use with alternator systems for alternator shutdown) if you come up with someone who has put one in please comment on it ? Thanks
Simple and to the point. I like it. I appreciate the white board to show what you're doing. Take care.
Thanks! Thanks for watching and for taking the time to pass feedback.
Happy to see I’m not the only one running a kill switch on the positive. Have a dual battery Cummins crewcab. I only need to cut power from starter positive to dash and ignition as a theft device and safety. I just don’t trust old fuse boxes and wiring to leave them hot unattended and didn’t want to add a switch on my 2/0 cable battery setup. I know many say a kill switch should only be put on negative, that wouldn’t work for me unless I put four kill switches. Batteries still need to be grounded to the truck body, not only the engine block according to 12 valve Cummins dual battery wiring diagrams. On my setup I think a kill switch is ok since I won’t be running any cranking amps through it.
If it works, it works!
You are an absolute life saver. I just bought a half finished drag car and I had the same issue (I didn’t install the cutoff switch.) my first day at the track with it is 3 days away so I will definitely be doing this tomorrow. THANK YOU 🙏🏻
Awesome, have fun at the track!
Thanks for the vid...Im in the process of this right now...cheers
Right on! Good luck, thanks for taking the time to comment.
Good to see you back on the Bad Hombre
Thanks! there's more going on, just not as many videos of it. I'll fix that.
Thank you for a clear, concise demonstration.
I’m glad you found it helpful!
10/10 you’re a legend
Unbelievable
Haha, I’ve been called unbelievable before. Thanks for watching.
Exactly what I was looking for. Thx for sharing
I’m glad you found it useful!
Very interesting Joe. I need to go out and see if mine needs that fix.
Curious if it did. I realize this opens a can of worms on techniques, and if it's even necessary. Really, it's not necessary, but a good idea in case some wiring goes sideways and you're looking to prevent a fire. Just my thoughts.
Thank you very much
I’m glad you found this helpful!
@@BadHombreGarage
Here is two comments on one forum post between people about what to do. For many people its hard to visualize. The second comment is an idea to reduce long heavy gauge cable. This video set the stage to understand the rest. You are doing the Lord's work sir.
"thats what one of the firewall passthrus are for... one for the alt, the other for the starter... all my electrical is going under the dash fuse box and all...oh and the ground is most likely going to be a direct mounted stud going thru the fire wall, no rubber grommet
edit... oh i see now, yeah your right.... ok... back to the drawing board...lol i thinkg if i just redirect the alt (+) directly to the battery, that should work..."
"One other option you have is to use a constant duty solenoid (80 amp minimum) for the main batt. supply, with the control side switched by a simple toggle switch that you mount at the rear bumper area. that way you dont have to run so much heavy cable to required outside cutoff switch.
Also with this system you can wire a ford style inertia switch in series with the toggle sw. If you crash the inertia switch shuts everything down.
NHRA wants to be able to shut the car off at the starting line in case of a leak or some other problem the driver or crew are unaware of.
As discussed in another thread the Ford inertia switch has not inadvertantly shut my car down, even with 1.5 short times.
Also, I had NHRA div. tech man give me the OK on the setup. Hope this helps somehow."
@@BadHombreGarage Okay last thing. This is to help people choose the right solenoid/relay. Of which you may know all of this. Look for an economized one. Initial working amp draw drops to 0.1 amps or less to stay open. Others draw multiple amps continuously.
Hey Hombre. Nice fix. One more thing to get out of your head. Thanks for sharing.🍁👍👍
Thanks Andy!
Nice and simple good job
Thanks!
A fuse on the alternator charging wire will be a good idea. Fuse at the cut off switch
That’s a good idea!
I got to do the same thing on my foxbody, I wired my cutoff switch per the instructions but I think the diagram was labeled as battery disconnect maybe
There are a few ways to tackle this; this was just my method. Hope it works for you too.
@@BadHombreGarage it should be fine
Great video thank you for the help
I’m glad you found it helpful, thanks for watching.
Going to rewire mine thanks for the tip
Nice, hope this helped!
Nice job! That is a fix that was needed a long time ago, the old "run on" problem has made many of us just scratch our head.
And have to get "creative" to get through tech inspection!
Hi, it’s a good video. So you connect one positive wire from the kill switch to the positive wire on your alternator. Then the other side of the kill switch positive as well runs directly to positive on the battery? I’m just making sure I’m understanding and would be doing this correctly.
Does it matter what side you use the positive connections on the kill switch meaning one goes to alternator and ones goes to battery
@@ChristopherPipp yes, correct.
@@ChristopherPipp it shouldn’t matter which side you make the connections, the switch just opens and closes the connection.
That's some thin wire lol
Hey, it works!
Nice fix
Thanks Glenn
a must have!
Especially if you've ever had one start on fire due to some wiring gone wrong!
Thank you
Hey thanks for watching!
Yep, good fix bud.
Thanks!
Good video. I need to add something like that to my 32’
Thanks for the feedback! I believe it's a good idea to include the cutoff switch.
Can you hook a 1 wire alternator to the actual starter large terminal?
Sure.
Nice. Works as it should. I am not going to use a kill switch for everything. But I am going to put in a hidden ignition kill switch. My car will never see a race track.
That's a good idea. The kill switch isn't for everyone, especially if the battery is in the original location.
I didn't like what I saw.... But that's ok. I still liked the video and now I'm leaving a comment.
Hey, I'll take it. Thanks for watching!
I bought a four pole kill switch. Just wondering if i did the jumper wire part right though.....
The 4-pole is probably a more correct way to go.
can you just route a wire from the alternator to the kill switch without taking the wire off the alt to starter?
I don’t think that will accomplish what you want. I believe the alternator wire will still allow feedback to the coil, which would keep the car running.
I think you need a much bigger wire to carry the amps all that length without dulling your fuel pump, head lights, cooling fan etc. You should be running at least a 6 Ga. wire. I like to be safe so I'd run a automotive type, (mega strands), 4 Ga. wire with soldered ends covered by heat shrink. Check out MAD AUTO ELECTRIC for great auto electric advice....
I’ll check them out. Thanks for the advice.
Agree with this Steve. Should be able to carry the amp load of the alternator the distance of your wire. Could definitely see this getting hot and melting. No fuse either? I'm using 0 gauge welding cable for my project. 120amp alternator. No fuse on mine but it is a two feet length. Good luck, thank you for the video!
Curious as how this worked in the long run i did this same thing on mine but i noticed when i killed the switch i still had 5 amps at the alternator. ( when checking with a volt meter) Not sure if this will create a drain and eventually kill a battery?
It works great! No issues at all.
Chevy made a fusible link tht worked pretty well in the 60's & 70's but by far the best for my 55 chevy drag car with 468/1230 hp with msd 7al box was the old 1964 plymouth or dodge ignition ballast resistor with number 10awg. strainded copper wire.
That’s cool, I’ll have to explore that a little.
You know, instead of going the long way around you could have just move the cut off switch to the negative side of the battery. This avoids both the problem you're trying to fix as well as not having two hot terminals on the switch.
Why fool around with the positive side?
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. When I had the switch set up through the negative side, it did not shut the engine off when the master switch was turned off; and that is why I wired it this way.
not supposed to kill the car with just battery interrupt.
that's the old "is my alternator working" test
covered the same thing on the latest Bad Obsession Motorsports video.
ruclips.net/video/qM_iXuuwC9M/видео.html
just link the coil wire to it if it has terminals on the back or do it like you did.
but if you do it this way, the longer the run, the thicker wire you will need. that looks like 8 or maybe 6 or 4 gauge. would prefer a 0 or 00.
I watched that to the other day
Thanks for the additional info Wayne! I'm not too concerned about switching power on this car without many electrical components and no computers... but you're right- I might think differently on something more complex.
@@BadHombreGarage Yea, the power to the cars components will actually be coming off the alt if wired one way. so that long wire will get warm. if you have two long wires or just one with the fuses back by the battery, components will be fed by the battery but long wire from alt will still get warm. thicker is better. (that's what she said)
i was looking for someone how had put in a 300 amp fastronix master disconnect , i like want you did but this switch ties into your ignition (wiring diagram #303-004 2-pole disconnect for use with alternator systems for alternator shutdown) if you come up with someone who has put one in please comment on it ? Thanks
I do not know of anyone who has used that switch, but I hope someone will comment if they have.
🙂🙂🙂👍💪
Thanks!