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I finally get this after watching your video. Today I was driving to work and I hit a traffic jam. At this point (sitting in traffic) , I noticed my volt meters were low (11.9 volts) (not the usual 13.8) and I was like, "Oh no !". I was still 25 Km from work and with the traffic, it was going to take me over an hour. I knew the alternator wasn't charging now and the "dummy light" on the dashboard was on. I cancelled work and limped it home. Checking voltages (alternator output), it was at 11.9 Volts [same as battery] so obviously the alternator was dead or the "exciter wire" was not demanding the alternator on. I tried checking the voltages on the 2 pins (honestly thought they were just positive and negative to maybe fire a solenoid / relay) but failed trying to stab it whilst connected with the multimeter probes. I disconnected the plug and both pins were giving various volts (11.3 and 11.9). My guess is that the 11.9 was the exciter wire and the 11.3 was the voltage past the dummy light. As I was now confused, I plugged it back in to do another wire jiggle test, and suddenly the alternator came to life. The engine revs went down as the nator clutch obviously engaged as it charged both batteries (primary and aux) after the VSR flicked a few times (connecting and disconnecting the aux battery) I'm considering connecting a buzzer to the dummy light so that in the future, if this happens I will know the alternator is not charging. I don't stare at my dashboard or voltage meters whilst driving and at least with a buzzer, I will know pretty quickly if there is a problem.

My turn signal stalk is flashing when the arm is in the nuetral position, still blinking even tho the arm isnt in the right or left position, any thoughts? my hazard button isnt pulled out either and it still blinks

what did you use to get the bare metal to look like that thanks

Cam shaft bearing might have slipped out of it position

Hi, it’s a good video. So you connect one positive wire from the kill switch to the positive wire on your alternator. Then the other side of the kill switch positive as well runs directly to positive on the battery? I’m just making sure I’m understanding and would be doing this correctly.

Do you know the model number for this tool box? Maybe I can find that one

Thank you for posting Have a Great Blessed Day

Thanks for the video

Hell yeah!! I daily drive a 4.3 Im guessing your gonna go with a carburator ?

Oddly enough, it's common practice in machine shops to use 80-150 grit Emory cloth to bring bearing journals to size on shafts turning slowly on a lathe. It takes quite a while to take off more than a thousandth (0.001) of an inch. off. I'd definitely say you got a good method there.

Did you ever test/post an update on the bbs I’m debating do the same thing on my 87 v10 pickup with 38.5 boggers

Thank you Bad Hombre!

Where can I buy parts for my windows

Given the amount of oil that had been leaking, I am sure that the new pan gasket helped a bit with that. So this experiment was somewhat beneficial.

Subscribed, I want to see how that motor wakes up your Jeep. I always thought those 4.3 motors were pretty good at the time they were around.

I just bought one exactly the same two days ago so hoping to get some tips here. The chop turned out great.

Im about to do this in my C10.

Excellent, just what i was looking for, thank you.

Good video Joe, big help😀😀

Excellent Joe, you made it look easy, have a great weekend buddy 😀😀

Thanks for the help. I hooked the signal the way you show. Tried the switch but noticed the flasher was not putting out power after turning on. I did have a 20 amp fuse on the line. That probably blew the flasher. Can't figure why the blown Flasher. I changed the fuse to a 10amp but hate to try another flasher. I checked the flasher and it did have out put before turning on the signal. None after.

Nice, here's my story of how I got to the video, wifes buick enclaved got totaled, so we bought a fb market place car for super cheap an older buick century. We did HAVE a title from the previous owner sitting on the kitchen table for about a month with my truck title, my "wonderful" teenage daughter decides she is going to clean up the house and decided the stack of paper work she called "junk mail" needed to be tossed into the trash....and here I am

I’m about to start this very journey with my 4.3 I have new piston heads though. So far I think you are gonna be my go to guy for this build

Wow that was great saved, my time headache and money

The Home Depot's delivery service is really frustrating. I was supposed to receive my Husky 52" Toolbox Combo two weeks ago, but the delivery never showed up. I rescheduled for August 3rd, but once again, they never showed up. Now, my next delivery date is set for August 12th, 2024. Since I bought the Husky Toolbox, the price increased by $200 before taxes.

I have a problem i installed the kit like you said now the problem is when I run on the running lights the right side blinkers turn off when I turn the running lights off or turn the headlights on completely the turn on again

Thanks buddy

Hopefully I could get a bond title with this information!

Nice work Joe, get that jeep ready, hunting season is coming, and the BEARS are waiting!

What year is this moter ?

Misleading title. Should have called it: watch this jackass struggle for ten minutes (arduously drawn out over several days) and get nowhere near putting bb’s in anything except maybe his butt

So are you you not using any of the flasher that are with the kit only the three plug one? Dis tou cut the other two out?

will it work on vw railbuggy

Good job very nice work and keep up the good videos with detail for newbies like myself I hav a 30-31 sedan I can’t seem to figure out what rear coil overs I need what size do u install

You know, instead of going the long way around you could have just move the cut off switch to the negative side of the battery. This avoids both the problem you're trying to fix as well as not having two hot terminals on the switch. Why fool around with the positive side?

Cool video

The chamber nearest the booster is for the front brakes.

Under the window garnish molding is another piece that accepts that seal for the insides of the windows

Do none of the wires plug into plug connector coming out of the column

My 64 CJ5 jeep has been sitting 10 years, and the brake pedal naturally went to the floor. I looked at the job and thought I can't even see the 2nd line, thinking it would be opposite the the one I could see. As long as that one line comes loose it's not looking so bad. Thank for the video!

my new connector came with all white wires

Hey guys, I just got my VIN inspection done today. Quick question, for step 2, where do I physically have to go to submit the records search? That would be DR 2489A. Appreciate the help!

What about 2 prong?

Sorry to see that your engine had bad cylinder I jest got one for next to nothing, I watched the first video. I found a very informative. Good job keep it up

I have the speedway harness and running into some problems. If you are available to reach out I would appreciate it.

Great video thanks. My fan stops when the ignition is off, my issue is air only blows in the high speed "5" 1 thru 4 stopped working, and there is uneven air distribution, air only blows from the passenger side. How do I narrow that down to the Climate Control Module or the Blower motor resistor? I live in S Florida so I only use AC. Thanks

Good instructuctional video. The worst part was adding the annoying noise overlay. Do RUclips a favor and re-edit and re-upload taking out the noise. It doesn't belong in a video like this. Maybe if you're skiing down a black diamond, but it just ruins the video.

Hey Joe, very nice, Super Clean sure does work good, catch you on the next one buddy😁😁

I’m trying to use some of theses on an old farm tractor and garden tractor. On the box it shows a fuse but doesn’t say what amps, what do feel I should go with?

If I understand this correctly, my 1990 Dodge D150 has the regulator inside the ECM(yep called ECM in 1990) and my voltage is about 13.5. At 66yrs old I've owned a lot of cars and what was always common was about 14.4v. I just got thos old pickup so it may be a non-issue but I'm thinking if it has trouble keeping the battery up I can just add a little resistance to the signal field wire to fool the system to increace output voltage a little. I know on my Roadrunner I moved that wire from the connection on the cowl to under the dash when the headlights pull power and my dim headlights were solved. Have you done this before and know what might be a good resistance to use? Thanks, good video.