@jacksonyang2044 Are you talking about the Creality hyper PLA? I am testing a different high speed PLA right now that they say has high mechanical strength too, just printed one right under 500 mm/s
Just got finished with a BiQu basketball print 57 hrs on a A1, a bit rough where the supports were and kinda drippy in some overhang areas but bounces very well, made a tennis ball too.
@@immytay65 I use an angle grinder/sanding disk to smooth the bottom, but bouncing it around should hopefully smooth it eventually. Glad to hear it turned out decent, and a tennis ball sounds like a good way to use up the rest of the spool
@eternalannex-JTG I know it is not the same hardness, but I tried 98A TPU and it was one of the worst bouncing basketballs I made. I wonder if TPU needs additives to actually bounce
@@makeitlabchannel yeah I was disappointed from ams tpu , I’m on the fence of buying that 98a tpu or some of the peba s filament you’ve tried so that I can make a soccer ball
@@TripodLeo Thanks! I did dry the BIQU the whole time it was printing. Since it was at 50C I don't think it messed with it too much, hopefully just prevented moisture uptake
Thank you for your work. I have a couple questions before embarking on my 3 day print. 1. the written max volumetric flow is 6mm3/sec but the downloaded parameter has it set at 8mm3/sec. Which is correct? 2. Would there be an issue with printing with tree supports, namely thin tree supports? I was thinking it may be easier to remove. Thank you!
Hey there, if the downloaded parameter is 8mm3/sec then go with that, I must have typed the wrong number. Also, I always print with tree supports if I can - the reason I didn't with the BIQU model is because they preprogrammed everything for me and told me to not change anything to give their testing a try.
@@LachlanSchembri I would highly recommend glue or another release agent for any of the flexible filaments, especially for the BIQU, PEBA, and DudV2. The DudV2 ruined one of my beds because it fused, and the BIQU ruined one of Uncle Jessy's beds. It probably depends on the bed too - I print all of mine on a textured PEI, but something like glass might not need a release agent
What about temperature testing? What if the temperature is at or near freezing? below freezing? I suspect durability would take a huge hit in that temperature range. Or at the other extreme, temps upwards of 100 F?
The one question I have is, does it have to have open cells? Can there be a thin layer over the holes to improve air resistance while still performing?
@@andrewkanzler6492 Yeah that is an interesting thought worth testing. I thought about covering the ball with a grippy layer that would improve air resistance too so I will look into it
@@deltacx1059 Yeah for sure. I thought it was pretty crazy what they were charging for it at first, but after seeing how much bouncier it is compared to the rest I guess I kind of get it
Great video! Question for you. I don’t have a 3D printer, but that Peba filament looks the best. Is the BIQU filament close enough? I’m looking at buying 3 airless balls from BIQU and would hate to buy that many if it’s not close to a real basketball. Thoughts?
@@josiahdamery I think really it is probably going to come down to cost for the ball(s). While the BIQU has a good bounce, the peba is just better from my testing, but you will probably have to pay quite a bit more for a peba ball if you can find someone selling them
I think the PETG/PLA combo would work well, but If I could, I would go with a water soluble filament for the supports like PVA so that it just disappears after dipping it in water 🙂
Thanks! Because of the way it was designed, if you have at least 4 walls, it will almost have no infill. There are a few spots, but changing the % infill would not do too much. If you had less than 4 walls (which I would not recommend), % infill would make more of a difference. From my testing, I have found that more walls adds more bounce than infill, but only to a certain point
@@MS-gv4jx Here is a summary of my settings: Nozzle temperature: 230C Bed temperature: 55C (textured PEI) Nozzle size: 0.6mm is highly recommended. You can use a 0.4mm nozzle but it might not bounce quite as well. Layer height: 0.3mm for a 0.6mm nozzle or 0.2mm for a 0.4mm nozzle. Walls: 5 Infill: 100% concentric Printing speed: 40 mm/s (20 mm/s for bridges) Flow rate: 6mm^3/s Supports: Manually painted on the bottom of the basketball only using Bambu Studio - video on how to do this here: ruclips.net/video/L7AP0ahJMyo/видео.html Part cooling fan: 100% Auxiliary cooling fan: Between 70% and 100% with 100% recommended.
@@K8Stuff From what I was reading, folks recommend drying tpu and pla between 40 and 50C to avoid the filament becoming soft or deformed, but I think it will take longer to dry than at 70C or so: www.wevolver.com/article/how-to-dry-filament
@@bobjohnson6915 You can get away with a 0.4 nozzle, but the print time will take a lot longer. That is really the big difference, but I think printing with a larger nozzle also reduces the chances for clogging with the filament
I think that depends on budget, but based on what I have tested, I think going with something like the Wisdream FlexiTough or BIQU-HR is great for the money, especially because they come in 1kg rolls so you don't have to change mid-print. The DudV2 PLA-B works well too but they never seem to be in stock. They are all about $60 per kg though.
@@Softball_04-f9v Hey there, our basketball file is available here: makerworld.com/en/models/813567#profileId-755374 The BIQU model is on there too I believe
Printing the ball with multicolor just to paint the black lines, would be a such huge waste of (expensive) material and time honestly (unless you have a multi extruder printer ofc). I would consider using a support interface layer to take off supports easier eventually, and supports are only in the very first layers of the print so the waste wouldn't be that bad. But yeah, I guess most of these flex materials are not AMS compatible anyway. :/
Opinions differ as usual, but PLEASE dont stop sharing your quest for the best airless basketball because of this comment! 🙏 These videos are really appreciated
Be sure to check out the BIQU PLA-HR filament!
Wonder how a double filament build would work. Either with a softer inside and harder outside or the opposite. ;)
@88Spint I have seen some folks attempt this with mixed results - at some point I will need to invest in a multi-material printer so I can test it 😁
Can you test out the hyper PLA and create a file for it?
@jacksonyang2044 Are you talking about the Creality hyper PLA? I am testing a different high speed PLA right now that they say has high mechanical strength too, just printed one right under 500 mm/s
Just got finished with a BiQu basketball print 57 hrs on a A1, a bit rough where the supports were and kinda drippy in some overhang areas but bounces very well, made a tennis ball too.
@@immytay65 I use an angle grinder/sanding disk to smooth the bottom, but bouncing it around should hopefully smooth it eventually. Glad to hear it turned out decent, and a tennis ball sounds like a good way to use up the rest of the spool
You sir are a wizard
@@UncleJessy Thanks!
MAN, not only are you doing the lord's work with all this, YOU CAN LAND SOME SHOTS! Good stuff man! Thank you!
@@150nitrodude Oh there were plenty of misses too lol but much appreciated 😁
This is a good video. Still is amazing to see that you can make bouncy objects with 3d printing.
I would have never thought we could 3d print basketballs that can perform like they can - pretty crazy
Thanks for all your tests!
@@jordiagut1 hope they help 😁
If the 30D tpu one ends up working well, maybe try the new Bambu 68D AMS compatible tpu too? Thank you so much for these tests btw
@@QuangNguyen-wb5kd Hope they help, and I will definitely look into it 😁
i tried that stuff for a airless tennis ball, it does not bounce at all, its super hard and not flexible
@eternalannex-JTG I know it is not the same hardness, but I tried 98A TPU and it was one of the worst bouncing basketballs I made. I wonder if TPU needs additives to actually bounce
@@makeitlabchannel yeah I was disappointed from ams tpu , I’m on the fence of buying that 98a tpu or some of the peba s filament you’ve tried so that I can make a soccer ball
@@makeitlabchannel the ninjatek edge 83a also looks very promising
Great Video. Did you dry the Biqu filament? I am not sure if drying it out will reduce the bounce or dry it out.
@@TripodLeo Thanks! I did dry the BIQU the whole time it was printing. Since it was at 50C I don't think it messed with it too much, hopefully just prevented moisture uptake
Thank you for your work. I have a couple questions before embarking on my 3 day print. 1. the written max volumetric flow is 6mm3/sec but the downloaded parameter has it set at 8mm3/sec. Which is correct? 2. Would there be an issue with printing with tree supports, namely thin tree supports? I was thinking it may be easier to remove. Thank you!
Hey there, if the downloaded parameter is 8mm3/sec then go with that, I must have typed the wrong number. Also, I always print with tree supports if I can - the reason I didn't with the BIQU model is because they preprogrammed everything for me and told me to not change anything to give their testing a try.
@@makeitlabchannel thank you! It is a bit nerve wracking to get everything set when it's such a long print! Thanks for everything
@slee8416 Hope it prints well!
Is it possible to get a video about the construction and how to make it in CAD? Or if you got any link I would be glad 🤠
@@freddes3385 I am not sure about CAD, but if a Blender tutorial would work then I could probably make something if that would be helpful
Great vid wish these filaments were a bit cheaper tho XD
@@sickswan61 Thanks! I hope someone comes up with an option that performs well and is very affordable
Do you believe glue is necessary for printing the airless basketball in any of the basketball filaments eg. Peba, DuD v2 Biqu?
@@LachlanSchembri I would highly recommend glue or another release agent for any of the flexible filaments, especially for the BIQU, PEBA, and DudV2. The DudV2 ruined one of my beds because it fused, and the BIQU ruined one of Uncle Jessy's beds. It probably depends on the bed too - I print all of mine on a textured PEI, but something like glass might not need a release agent
What about temperature testing? What if the temperature is at or near freezing? below freezing? I suspect durability would take a huge hit in that temperature range. Or at the other extreme, temps upwards of 100 F?
@@daleaferrrier That would be some fun testing, thanks for the suggestion!
The one question I have is, does it have to have open cells? Can there be a thin layer over the holes to improve air resistance while still performing?
@@andrewkanzler6492 Yeah that is an interesting thought worth testing. I thought about covering the ball with a grippy layer that would improve air resistance too so I will look into it
4:52 consider the price of a similar airless ball, the only one I saw like that was over 200$
@@deltacx1059 Yeah for sure. I thought it was pretty crazy what they were charging for it at first, but after seeing how much bouncier it is compared to the rest I guess I kind of get it
Great video! Question for you. I don’t have a 3D printer, but that Peba filament looks the best. Is the BIQU filament close enough? I’m looking at buying 3 airless balls from BIQU and would hate to buy that many if it’s not close to a real basketball. Thoughts?
@@josiahdamery I think really it is probably going to come down to cost for the ball(s). While the BIQU has a good bounce, the peba is just better from my testing, but you will probably have to pay quite a bit more for a peba ball if you can find someone selling them
What is the most durable airless basketball other than the peba one.
@@Diddy3.14 It would probably be a tie between the Wisdream FlexiTough and the BIQU-HR
If you had a tool changer, what type of filament would you think would be good supports for this? PETG like normal PLA?
I think the PETG/PLA combo would work well, but If I could, I would go with a water soluble filament for the supports like PVA so that it just disappears after dipping it in water 🙂
Nice! And what is the fill rate of the part? what if I put more %? will the rebound be better?
Thanks! Because of the way it was designed, if you have at least 4 walls, it will almost have no infill. There are a few spots, but changing the % infill would not do too much. If you had less than 4 walls (which I would not recommend), % infill would make more of a difference. From my testing, I have found that more walls adds more bounce than infill, but only to a certain point
Can you try it with the new tpu for ams
@@Letrobro I will look into it 😁
What filament setting did you use on your printer? I’m trying to load pla hr into my A1 and it’s not working
@@MS-gv4jx Here is a summary of my settings:
Nozzle temperature: 230C
Bed temperature: 55C (textured PEI)
Nozzle size: 0.6mm is highly recommended. You can use a 0.4mm nozzle but it might not bounce quite as well.
Layer height: 0.3mm for a 0.6mm nozzle or 0.2mm for a 0.4mm nozzle.
Walls: 5
Infill: 100% concentric
Printing speed: 40 mm/s (20 mm/s for bridges)
Flow rate: 6mm^3/s
Supports: Manually painted on the bottom of the basketball only using Bambu Studio - video on how to do this here: ruclips.net/video/L7AP0ahJMyo/видео.html
Part cooling fan: 100%
Auxiliary cooling fan: Between 70% and 100% with 100% recommended.
Anyone know how to dry this ? And yes, I see you dry it at 50 ... just wondering as this seem to be a mix of TPU / PLA etc.
@@K8Stuff From what I was reading, folks recommend drying tpu and pla between 40 and 50C to avoid the filament becoming soft or deformed, but I think it will take longer to dry than at 70C or so: www.wevolver.com/article/how-to-dry-filament
Does it have to be printed with a 0.6 nozzle?
@@bobjohnson6915 You can get away with a 0.4 nozzle, but the print time will take a lot longer. That is really the big difference, but I think printing with a larger nozzle also reduces the chances for clogging with the filament
Plot Twist: you printed the same file and not different basketballs. Jk, excellent work on the ball! 👍
Haha you caught me, I just didn't turn the ball around far enough for you to see the logos lol. Thanks!
Try this this is airless basketball filament the name is geeetech soft flexible elasticity
@@lawanthegamer6792 I will check it out!
What is the best filament for the price and bounce?
I think that depends on budget, but based on what I have tested, I think going with something like the Wisdream FlexiTough or BIQU-HR is great for the money, especially because they come in 1kg rolls so you don't have to change mid-print. The DudV2 PLA-B works well too but they never seem to be in stock. They are all about $60 per kg though.
Thank you for the feedback. I bought the flex pla, and it works pretty well.
I thought you destroyed the peba s Model ? Can you Upload the last peba s Model which worked ?
That was actually the first peba ball I printed and it was PartyLime's model. The one I designed has not cracked yet: makerworld.com/en/models/545680
take a shot every time he says "airless basketball"
@@kingmasterlord Didn't realize how much I said it, dang that is a lot of shots lol
@makeitlabchannel adhd man, advanced pattern recognition
How much filament does it take? Will one roll work?
It will only take 1 roll (1 kg) of filament for either file - about 840 grams or so for their file and a little less than 800 grams for my file
mine broke on 4th bounce...
Oh dang, sorry to hear that. Which basketball model and printer did you use?
Can you please post the file of the basketball
@@Softball_04-f9v Hey there, our basketball file is available here: makerworld.com/en/models/813567#profileId-755374
The BIQU model is on there too I believe
@ thank you
@Annabellegoodspeed04 Hope it prints well!
Printing the ball with multicolor just to paint the black lines, would be a such huge waste of (expensive) material and time honestly (unless you have a multi extruder printer ofc).
I would consider using a support interface layer to take off supports easier eventually, and supports are only in the very first layers of the print so the waste wouldn't be that bad.
But yeah, I guess most of these flex materials are not AMS compatible anyway. :/
@@Cholo981 Yeah, I forgot to mention using the AMS for different support material too for easy removal, but the AMS still won't work unfortunately.
you forgot to put STL links
@@thacoolest13 Oops, I will fix that ASAP, thanks for letting me know
@@thacoolest13 They are up now 😁
Too much airless basketball video. Do something more.. this is boring.
@@mindenesvegyes8512 I definitely have more than just airless basketball content coming out soon, and I always welcome suggestions 😁
Opinions differ as usual, but PLEASE dont stop sharing your quest for the best airless basketball because of this comment! 🙏 These videos are really appreciated
@@Addictive4real Don't worry, I have more coming out because I can't stop yet, but I will also have more content that focuses on other things too 😁
Don’t listen to this guy. LOVE this stuff!
@@joekazadi1252 Glad to hear it - more to come!