Your BGT looks like a great start point for a restoration, very complete and straight looking. The bumpers look like the originals, so best to get them rechromed as the originals always fit better. Bodywork. Depends how bad it is. Yours looks very repairable to me which will be a lot cheaper than a new shell. Which by the way is just a replacement part, so no issues with identity. Floors and sills are pretty easy to do. Buy heritage parts they fit well. If needed buy Heritage doors and wings, it will still be a lot cheaper than a new shell. I’m looking forward to following your progress. I did a 74 BGT 20 years ago, still have it.
Thankfully none of the MGB platform is hard to resolve, like you say it's down to skills. I'm on my second round of restoration of my BGT, my first round on it was 21 years ago so considering it's used all weathers they do last once done. Take your time and you'll be golden.
Beautiful MG! My Dad also had a 67 Tartan Red MGB/GT, he gave it to my older brother who unfortunately junked it before going into the service around 1978. This led to my own obsession with MGs and I'm on my Third British racing green GT since 1985. In my opinion, there's something about originality that outweighs getting everything new. John Day a well-known MG enthusiast who restored MPC11D a motor road test car from 66 commented that he restored an MGC but it become a clinical and soulless machine. If I were you I would sit down with a bodywork specialist and figure out the degree of rust and welding it will need and compare it to the price of a new shell, however, it just seems much more fun bringing these old MGs back to life. All the original parts have a superior fit and quality that cant be compared to the modern-day aftermarket parts. Whatever you decide God bless you and try and be patient and enjoy, these MGs are wonderful machines and great fun!
No need to upgrade brakes! Servo assisted brakes are very very good indeed…..new shell means it’s a new car but still treated as an old car for tax purposes as you just swap the vin plates over….welding is not that difficult for sills wings etc……do it yourself. I am doing the exact same project right now and started about a month ago.
Hi. I had a 1967 BGT in about 1968. Very good cars. Go much better than the later ones with emission controls for the U.S. market. You will find the rust is much worse than you think. Just put the VIN plate on the new tub if you buy one.
Do keep the original shell and repair/replace panels etc. it’s a great car with original “classic smells” - would be completely lost by replacing the shell. Looking forward to more videos from you and thanks for sharing your experience with the project 👍
For me, doing the work is part of the journey and is directly tied to the satisfaction I get from the end result. If you want to do a restoration, do a restoration. If you just want a restored car - if you just want to skip the work and have the thing you want - then write a check. Both approaches are valid, but I think you’re going to be dissatisfied if you try to straddle between the two. Why not use this as your way to learn how to do body work? It’s not rocket science, it’s just time consuming, but the skill and knowledge you’ll gain in learning continue to serve you for years. Perhaps think of it this way. If you’re into doing the restoration, and not just having the finished car, do as much as you can yourself. Not only will you have the satisfaction of having rebuilt the car yourself, you’ll know the car intimately. You’ll be that much better equipped to fix the car in the future as things break or need adjustment. This can be a journey of self-sufficiency and learning, or you can write a check. Neither is morally right or wrong. It all depends on you. Some of the best advice I’ve received on this topic was don’t take on a restoration project unless you actually enjoy doing restoration work. By metaphor, don’t take on a challenge to row across the English Channel unless you enjoy rowing, because it’s a lot of rowing. If you aren’t into rowing and just want to get to France, take the tunnel.
Having restored several MGB's over the years I would recommend keeping the original shell unless it is unrepairable. A Heritage shell is excellent but there is lots of fettling needed to get everything to fit onto it, it is definitely not a matter of just painting it and bolting everything on. If you can keep your shell, repaired, it is far easier to reassemble. If the body is too far gone then yes go for a reshell, otherwise keep it. Likewise with all body fittings - the quality of new exterior trim is in most cases well worse than original. Bumpers, grille, etc are all better kept as original restored items, which are better quality and better fit. I've spent a lot of time trying to get repro bumpers and grilles to fit and its painful. Even light assemblies like indicator/sidelamps are better original. Some repro items are fine but overall if you can repair or restore the original item, you will get a better fit and a longer life. If the original item is well past its best then yes replacement is a good option, just be aware there are variations in quality over repro items. Compare repro to original by just holding them next to each other and you will often notice the original weighs more and looks more sturdy. Standard MGB brakes are absolutely fine unless you make it go much faster. A brake servo is a good upgrade but beyond that you don't need upgraded brakes IMHO. There are some useful suspension upgrades out there however everyone has different views on that! Good luck - you've got a great base car there, looks very unmolested, and a great spec with wire wheels.
Here to give you advice & info. I can also give advice on companies I used when I ran an MG FIA car etc. Let's have a natter on Monday . Enjoyed the video as always
The shell is treated as just another replacement part, as long as it is a new shell, not a used/previously registered one, so the chassis/VIN number/age for tax/MOT purposes all stay the same. The British Motor Heritage shells are not cheap (I’m more familiar with the smaller, simpler Midget ones and they’re about £11k; I’d guess BGT ones are considerably more) and you can get an awful lot of bodywork done for that much money. The other thing to bear in mind is the amount of fettling the new shell will require to adjust panel gaps and fits and to prep for paint. I would suggest you ask one or two specialist restorers (either professionals or possibly experienced home restorers) to assess the car and give an estimate of the likely work involved to get your existing shell back into a decent state and balance that against the cost of the new shell. The other option is to do it yourself. The skills needed can be acquired by a DIYer and it will ultimately be the most rewarding (and cost effective) route and will provide plenty of RUclips material!
Honestly your best bet is to strip it down to a shell & have it blasted it could be more mud/filler than metal, only then will you know exacly what you're working with. But everything on these are available, it just comes down to balancing time vs cost, passion & effort.
Is the experience about restoring it in memory of your dad or just buying an MG and short cutting the experience. Loving cars is always the experience for me.
My only advice really doesn't have to do with with restoration. It's about heat shielding and insulation. The car isn't really usable in modern day without doing more insulation than they originally did (which was nothing). So as much as possible under the car and engine bay (min shielding the exhaust sitting just under your seat), but also putting real insulation in the cockpit (like dynaliner)
A new bodyshell will not alter the identity of your GT as you are moving parts across. You could fit new everything but as long as you keep two items from either rear axel front or rear suspension or steering you will keep identity. All depends on the state of what's underneath the body. From the look of the body I guess it's rotten underneath, so new shell is easier. I am having a new shell on my B and upgrading most of everything else, but most purist will tell you to keep it all original ...but you will be busy!
With regards to a new shell, unless the current shell is a rust bucket, don’t replace it. The effort to strip everything off the old shell to transfer to the new one will be very time consuming. Unless you’re doing a frame off restoration, it will be a lot of wasted effort. Check the extent of rust before you head down that path. Also, there are a lot of restorations that started out as a complete strip down that never went back together because they either got overwhelmed or lost interest. Start on one system and get it completed before going to the next as much as possible. When are you getting started on it?
The body panels and "chassis" in particular are always much much worse with rust than you can see without removing the panels, outer sills etc. Unfortunately, You are in for an expensive shock, especially if done by a professional shop. You could spend £25-30,000 and end up with a car that is only worth £15-20,000. You have to do it for the love of it. You cannot "buff" out dents in chrome. It will be cheaper to buy new. Also, an mgb does not have a catalytic converter.
no to replace the body shell is the same car so you keep the same VIN and registration number. keep the VIN plate and put it on the new shell . I have done a body shell change at a Ford main agent
I’ve heard the head gasket to use is a Payen gasket. Is this what you recommend? I can’t seem to find one anywhere. What brand do you recommend? 66 MGB here.
just start work less talk,do body yourself and if necessary get some help with coachworks,youre heart must be in it, work on it every day, sandblast body shell when you have removed,to help you make informed decesion
Iam a massive MGB fan having owned 5 over the last 30 odd years I currently drive a tatty 1976 model which I've customised by spraying a multitude of colours from a rattle can why have I done this is because I get a bit fed up of seeing restored MGBs in pristine condition and an obsession with originality I feel people go way way over the top with MGB restorations they cars just arnt worth the outlay..... You never get a return on your outlay I get more pleasure driving my multi coloured MGB than I would driving a pristine example and believe me this car gets some looks especially when I drive past a school when the kids are coming out they go crazy guys...... My advice is don't go spending huge amounts cash on fettling an MGB these cars just arnt worth the outlay.....
can you aford a new shell- then it be as new and last longer. you realy dont need bigger discbrakes than original it will not help a bit on narrow tyres and in the rear the original drumbrakes are balanced perfect to front disc.
Enough with the "ethos", yupspeak, millennial new age lingo.. Think pragmatism. Another element here is the philosophy with restoring or maintaining cars..many will say that If you didn't work on it yourself, it's not your car. If you are not adventurous, nor interested in learning something new, or take pride in doing something to a higher than commercial standard, then you may have to accept the current age of "good enough" at obscene prices and not really be invested in your car. I do as much as I can and know my limits such as machine work.. farm it out. Replacing a shell as a moral issue, is a non issue. It needs one or it does not. If I was considering buying a B that needed a new shell I'd pass. Fix what you have. Find someone with the experience and skills to evaluate it. There are many parts sources for Bs... but be wary of reproductions such as turn signal switches, after market bumpers.. hydraulic cylinders etc. quality is not, in many cases, near the originals. Many folks will buy poor quality repro parts such as brake master cylinders rather than attempt repairing the originals. I think differently, not solely because of originality but of the quality of the part. I buy replacements only if the original is beyond repair. A huge project is only a series of smaller projects. Just get going. Good Luck From Oregon USA with a 1963 MGB , one of the over 30 British cars I have owned since 1965.
And that is exactly the reason I want to make the roadster that is sitting in my driveway under tarps "mine". I've now watched many videos of experienced repairers plying their trade so I'm now wanting to get stuck into it but the garage cleanup is slowing me down. Being retired will give me plenty of time.
Your BGT looks like a great start point for a restoration, very complete and straight looking. The bumpers look like the originals, so best to get them rechromed as the originals always fit better. Bodywork. Depends how bad it is. Yours looks very repairable to me which will be a lot cheaper than a new shell. Which by the way is just a replacement part, so no issues with identity. Floors and sills are pretty easy to do. Buy heritage parts they fit well. If needed buy Heritage doors and wings, it will still be a lot cheaper than a new shell. I’m looking forward to following your progress. I did a 74 BGT 20 years ago, still have it.
Thankfully none of the MGB platform is hard to resolve, like you say it's down to skills. I'm on my second round of restoration of my BGT, my first round on it was 21 years ago so considering it's used all weathers they do last once done. Take your time and you'll be golden.
Beautiful MG! My Dad also had a 67 Tartan Red MGB/GT, he gave it to my older brother who unfortunately junked it before going into the service around 1978. This led to my own obsession with MGs and I'm on my Third British racing green GT since 1985. In my opinion, there's something about originality that outweighs getting everything new. John Day a well-known MG enthusiast who restored MPC11D a motor road test car from 66 commented that he restored an MGC but it become a clinical and soulless machine. If I were you I would sit down with a bodywork specialist and figure out the degree of rust and welding it will need and compare it to the price of a new shell, however, it just seems much more fun bringing these old MGs back to life. All the original parts have a superior fit and quality that cant be compared to the modern-day aftermarket parts. Whatever you decide God bless you and try and be patient and enjoy, these MGs are wonderful machines and great fun!
No need to upgrade brakes! Servo assisted brakes are very very good indeed…..new shell means it’s a new car but still treated as an old car for tax purposes as you just swap the vin plates over….welding is not that difficult for sills wings etc……do it yourself. I am doing the exact same project right now and started about a month ago.
Hi. I had a 1967 BGT in about 1968. Very good cars. Go much better than the later ones with emission controls for the U.S. market. You will find the rust is much worse than you think. Just put the VIN plate on the new tub if you buy one.
Do keep the original shell and repair/replace panels etc. it’s a great car with original “classic smells” - would be completely lost by replacing the shell. Looking forward to more videos from you and thanks for sharing your experience with the project 👍
For me, doing the work is part of the journey and is directly tied to the satisfaction I get from the end result. If you want to do a restoration, do a restoration. If you just want a restored car - if you just want to skip the work and have the thing you want - then write a check. Both approaches are valid, but I think you’re going to be dissatisfied if you try to straddle between the two. Why not use this as your way to learn how to do body work? It’s not rocket science, it’s just time consuming, but the skill and knowledge you’ll gain in learning continue to serve you for years. Perhaps think of it this way. If you’re into doing the restoration, and not just having the finished car, do as much as you can yourself. Not only will you have the satisfaction of having rebuilt the car yourself, you’ll know the car intimately. You’ll be that much better equipped to fix the car in the future as things break or need adjustment. This can be a journey of self-sufficiency and learning, or you can write a check. Neither is morally right or wrong. It all depends on you.
Some of the best advice I’ve received on this topic was don’t take on a restoration project unless you actually enjoy doing restoration work. By metaphor, don’t take on a challenge to row across the English Channel unless you enjoy rowing, because it’s a lot of rowing. If you aren’t into rowing and just want to get to France, take the tunnel.
Having restored several MGB's over the years I would recommend keeping the original shell unless it is unrepairable. A Heritage shell is excellent but there is lots of fettling needed to get everything to fit onto it, it is definitely not a matter of just painting it and bolting everything on. If you can keep your shell, repaired, it is far easier to reassemble. If the body is too far gone then yes go for a reshell, otherwise keep it. Likewise with all body fittings - the quality of new exterior trim is in most cases well worse than original. Bumpers, grille, etc are all better kept as original restored items, which are better quality and better fit. I've spent a lot of time trying to get repro bumpers and grilles to fit and its painful. Even light assemblies like indicator/sidelamps are better original. Some repro items are fine but overall if you can repair or restore the original item, you will get a better fit and a longer life. If the original item is well past its best then yes replacement is a good option, just be aware there are variations in quality over repro items. Compare repro to original by just holding them next to each other and you will often notice the original weighs more and looks more sturdy. Standard MGB brakes are absolutely fine unless you make it go much faster. A brake servo is a good upgrade but beyond that you don't need upgraded brakes IMHO. There are some useful suspension upgrades out there however everyone has different views on that! Good luck - you've got a great base car there, looks very unmolested, and a great spec with wire wheels.
Michael thank you so much. I really appreciate it! Thats really useful comments
Here to give you advice & info. I can also give advice on companies I used when I ran an MG FIA car etc. Let's have a natter on Monday . Enjoyed the video as always
Amazing! Thanks Lozza!
Thanks Bro!!!
The shell is treated as just another replacement part, as long as it is a new shell, not a used/previously registered one, so the chassis/VIN number/age for tax/MOT purposes all stay the same.
The British Motor Heritage shells are not cheap (I’m more familiar with the smaller, simpler Midget ones and they’re about £11k; I’d guess BGT ones are considerably more) and you can get an awful lot of bodywork done for that much money. The other thing to bear in mind is the amount of fettling the new shell will require to adjust panel gaps and fits and to prep for paint.
I would suggest you ask one or two specialist restorers (either professionals or possibly experienced home restorers) to assess the car and give an estimate of the likely work involved to get your existing shell back into a decent state and balance that against the cost of the new shell.
The other option is to do it yourself. The skills needed can be acquired by a DIYer and it will ultimately be the most rewarding (and cost effective) route and will provide plenty of RUclips material!
Looking like a good project, any updates? 👍
Honestly your best bet is to strip it down to a shell & have it blasted it could be more mud/filler than metal, only then will you know exacly what you're working with. But everything on these are available, it just comes down to balancing time vs cost, passion & effort.
Is the experience about restoring it in memory of your dad or just buying an MG and short cutting the experience. Loving cars is always the experience for me.
Restoring the car is what it needs
Forget about the new body shell
Preservation is the word
Isn't first pull of the light switch the sidelights? Can't be sure as it's about 40 years since I have been in one.
My only advice really doesn't have to do with with restoration. It's about heat shielding and insulation. The car isn't really usable in modern day without doing more insulation than they originally did (which was nothing). So as much as possible under the car and engine bay (min shielding the exhaust sitting just under your seat), but also putting real insulation in the cockpit (like dynaliner)
A new bodyshell will not alter the identity of your GT as you are moving parts across. You could fit new everything but as long as you keep two items from either rear axel front or rear suspension or steering you will keep identity. All depends on the state of what's underneath the body. From the look of the body I guess it's rotten underneath, so new shell is easier.
I am having a new shell on my B and upgrading most of everything else, but most purist will tell you to keep it all original ...but you will be busy!
With regards to a new shell, unless the current shell is a rust bucket, don’t replace it. The effort to strip everything off the old shell to transfer to the new one will be very time consuming. Unless you’re doing a frame off restoration, it will be a lot of wasted effort. Check the extent of rust before you head down that path.
Also, there are a lot of restorations that started out as a complete strip down that never went back together because they either got overwhelmed or lost interest. Start on one system and get it completed before going to the next as much as possible.
When are you getting started on it?
The body panels and "chassis" in particular are always much much worse with rust than you can see without removing the panels, outer sills etc. Unfortunately, You are in for an expensive shock, especially if done by a professional shop. You could spend £25-30,000 and end up with a car that is only worth £15-20,000. You have to do it for the love of it. You cannot "buff" out dents in chrome. It will be cheaper to buy new. Also, an mgb does not have a catalytic converter.
no to replace the body shell is the same car so you keep the same VIN and registration number. keep the VIN plate and put it on the new shell .
I have done a body shell change at a Ford main agent
I’ve heard the head gasket to use is a Payen gasket. Is this what you recommend? I can’t seem to find one anywhere. What brand do you recommend? 66 MGB here.
Contact Moss Motors.
just start work less talk,do body yourself and if necessary get some help with coachworks,youre heart must be in it, work on it every day, sandblast body shell when you have removed,to help you make informed decesion
Iam a massive MGB fan having owned 5 over the last 30 odd years I currently drive a tatty 1976 model which I've customised by spraying a multitude of colours from a rattle can why have I done this is because I get a bit fed up of seeing restored MGBs in pristine condition and an obsession with originality I feel people go way way over the top with MGB restorations they cars just arnt worth the outlay..... You never get a return on your outlay I get more pleasure driving my multi coloured MGB than I would driving a pristine example and believe me this car gets some looks especially when I drive past a school when the kids are coming out they go crazy guys...... My advice is don't go spending huge amounts cash on fettling an MGB these cars just arnt worth the outlay.....
Does anyone know a good air filter assembly for a 73 mgb gt? Need some help :)
can you aford a new shell- then it be as new and last longer. you realy dont need bigger discbrakes than original it will not help a bit on narrow tyres and in the rear the original drumbrakes are balanced perfect to front disc.
6:32… Catalytic converter? On a 68 MG??? Re the headlight switch, first pull is sidelights, second is dipped beam, and floor switch is main full beam.
Stop procrastinating and get on with it !
Your car looks far too good for a new bodyshell. Keep it original!
What happened?
Enough with the "ethos", yupspeak, millennial new age lingo..
Think pragmatism.
Another element here is the philosophy with restoring or maintaining cars..many will say that
If you didn't work on it yourself, it's not your car.
If you are not adventurous, nor interested in learning something new, or take pride in doing something
to a higher than commercial standard, then you may have to accept the current age of "good enough"
at obscene prices and not really be invested in your car.
I do as much as I can and know my limits such as machine work.. farm it out.
Replacing a shell as a moral issue, is a non issue. It needs one or it does not.
If I was considering buying a B that needed a new shell I'd pass. Fix what you have. Find someone with the experience and skills to evaluate it.
There are many parts sources for Bs... but be wary of reproductions such as turn signal switches, after market bumpers.. hydraulic cylinders etc. quality is not, in many cases, near the originals. Many folks will buy poor quality repro parts such as brake master cylinders rather than attempt repairing the originals. I think differently, not solely because of originality but of the quality of the part. I buy replacements only if the original is beyond repair.
A huge project is only a series of smaller projects. Just get going.
Good Luck
From Oregon USA with a 1963 MGB , one of the over 30 British cars I have owned since 1965.
And that is exactly the reason I want to make the roadster that is sitting in my driveway under tarps "mine".
I've now watched many videos of experienced repairers plying their trade so I'm now wanting to get stuck into it but the garage cleanup is slowing me down.
Being retired will give me plenty of time.