I have a Suzuki Baleno off 2000. 23 years old!!!! 105.000kls manuall. 1.3l.16v 90hp. Verry peppy and great fuelconsumptuon. Its got AC,electric windows,electric/heated side mirrors,ABS. I love it!!!
As mentioned about touching all the knobs and switches. The F/B page for my wife's 2023 KIA often get posts asking what does this button do along with a picture of it. Most response are "push it and find out" or read the manual.
Thanks for the video Ray! whoever owned this car for the past 11+ years did an outstanding job on the maintenance, other than the worn out driver's seat, this is in fantastic shape for 133K +miles. Interesting on the oil overfill and black tape covering the tpms - but what a wonderful used car.
Hi Ray, I have to say that I thoroughly enjoyed the videos on the Toyota Yaris. You did an excellent inspection. I'm a little biased as I own a 2009 Yaris RS that only has 7500 kms or 4600 miles. Mine is fully loaded with all the amenities. It was shipped over from Japan and even the Goodyear tires are stamped, made in Japan. I would like more videos like this where you pick apart a used car and try to find any defects. The owner who bought the Yaris is a lucky person as these cars are very well made and will last a long time. All your videos are top notch and glad now that you have your own shop. Wish you lived in my neck of the woods as you would be my only mechanic.
One other thing I always do as part of a pre-purchase inspection .. I carry my Bluetooth OBDII reader and my phone with the Torque app so I can do a basic code read... What I'm looking for primarily is that the drive cycle readiness tests have all completed... If I see the drive cycle hasn't completed, it's a red flag that the seller has recently cleared trouble codes, and I may find it sets a code once the drive cycle has been completed (such as an evap code, as that's usually the last drive cycle test to complete). Now it's also possible that it simply means the battery was disconnected recently... But it's always something you want to check. Many times I've caught independent dealers and private sellers trying to conceal an issue that would set a code and illuminate the MIL by clearing the codes.
This is a great video, again I learned a lot watching and I have been wrenching on my own cars for almost 50 years. That little Toyota was in great shape for its age and mileage, someone cared about it and gave it good care.
07:21 The center rear seat belt (the one overhead in the cargo bay) has two latching tongues on it, the smaller (normally asymmetric) one goes to the black buckle on the R/H side. The main buckle (red release button) on this belt goes to the L/H outboard center buckle marked "center belt". They are clearly labeled on all variants of this vehicle I have seen and also on nearly all vehicles I have inspected that have detachable center belt diagonal fasteners. Also, did you check the child restraint function on those rear belts? All these models have a built in restraint system for a child seat. You fasten the belt as normal then pull the belt out to it's full extent which will engage it's ratchet restraint system. You then return the belt to a comfortable (or for ridgid child seats, a solid) position. From this point, if the mechanism is working properly, cannot be extended again without being unlatched and returned to full retraction.
The locking mechanism is not a child restraint function. It's a retraction locking mechanism for crashes mandated in 1996 and newer vehicles. It's just an extra convenience to use it as a cinch strap for seats.
@@Boga217 - both, when extended out completely, then permitted to retract partially, it's meant to lock into place for retaining cargo or child car seats (the owners manual will state as much) AND the inertia wheel is meant to lock upon rapid extension similar to a crash or sudden stop as you mentioned.
@@RickJohnson never read that part of the manual and always owned older vehicles that didn't have manuals..that's cool to know they actually designed them for that too.
I have an 07 Yaris sedan. Great little car. Had to replace the alternator, water pump, and do some brake work. Everything works, no leaks or issues. 170k miles. Gets about 30 mpg around town with a lot of stop and go, better on the freeway. Cheap and easy to work on.
I also have an '07. 5 speed manual 1.3, got it for half price because it had a fried clutch. Clutch, radiator and rear brakes since I bought it 3 years ago.
I have Dish tv . Made the transition to part 2 . Thanks great instructions. I’m 72 years old . Been working on stuff since 1962 - hold that light still it was 8 below .
i do this once a month on our cars I am glad you showed it as many do not know what to do over here in the uk when you are taking a test to drive a car on your own you have to know some of this ,thanks for the very informative video
Further north, we also run fingers along the length of wiper blades for roughness - ice and snow in winter can tear the blades up. (In fact, wiper blades more than a couple of years old tend to be due for replacement)
Toyota Yaris... arguably the most reliable car on the planet. This one looks very clean... maintain it well and the new owner will drive many carefree miles.
I find the parallax involved in having the speedometer so far off to my right makes me continually overestimate what speed it’s pointing at. Still a robust little car.
When i and my friends were first buying a car . The first thing we checked was the radio ,speekers ,sound. Then we checked other things such as oil, trans fluid , radiator fluid . Then on to start up ,how the motor sounded ,miles on it. My first car bought was 69 Buik Skylark for a hundred bucks ,back in 81
Whenever you ask for help always get them to do the simplest thing possible. Normally means them sitting in the drivers seat and doing what is needed whilst you actually check the issue out (for your own sanity!).
One thing you forgot, at least on video as of 19:13 is the wiper functions. You checked blade condition but not functionality or washer. It appears to be in excellent shape for the age. Must be a southern vehicle and well cared for.
24:20 I replaced all 6 coil connectors on a sienna for $15. You just push the pins out of the old connector and install in the new connector. No splicing, no soldering, easy.
Buyers remorse/regret, after an impulse purchase, something caused them to think "oh man, maybe I gots a lemon", and now they're having it gone over to decide if it's worth keeping or not
Generally can't find something intermittent or check a sparkplug. Generally a person checks that it operates and is legal during pre-purchase. also the post can find hidden information from check engine lights that may have been turned off. its kind of invasive to plug in a scan tool in a front yard although honestly for prices of used cars it should be common
I did one, I got the car from my neighbor a highly trusted person all I checked was for rust. Send it to the mechanic and told him if you find anything fix it.
People who don’t do their own maintenance tend to do this. It’s sort of a preventative maintenance thing. They don’t trust themselves to recognise a potential problem with a car they’re not yet familiar with, so they get a pro to go through it and fix anything that matters. It’s a risky task to take on, because it exposes the mechanic to potential liability, if something he hasn’t highlighted subsequently fails. I only do it for trusted regulars, subject to a disclaimer and not for profit.
Brake lights and backup lights can be checked w/o an assistant by backing up near a wall or glass door/window and looking in rearview mirror for illumination reflection. You didn't mention checking battery voltage, but seemed to have no issues there (voltage drop reading during startup is easily captured with a multimeter that has a dedicated MIN/MAX function). Glad you mentioned the door/hatch seals and checking for leaks (water/wind noise leaks) especially since it's a FL car that sees plenty of rain. Nice job overall Ray, impressed that you caught the black tape hiding the TPMS light and even more impressed that you found an apparent tire patch or previous nail impression. 👍
I have done a lot of these inspections in my 65 year career and I was a little suspicious of the pristine condition of the front clip after 100K plus miles. I also saw the paper label on the fender skirt that you loosened to see the windshield washer motor, this looks like a replacement part. I couldn't zoom in to read it. I would look very closely at the supports for the front clip and associated metal I suspect there might be a crash repair of the front end. Maybe a car fax check although I have found errors with them. The only other thing I do as a routine is check tie tire tread area for nails/ screws that may need to be repaired or removed. Great job as always.
I’ve said it once and I’ll say it again. You could teach a lot of so called “mechanics” a huge lesson on how to properly work on a vehicle . Some shops will literally hire someone and set them loose on whatever unlucky vehicle that comes in that day. I swear I talked to a kid that works at a local shop that didn’t know the difference between a strut and a shock. You learn that jazz on day one dude!
A little tip to find out which washer fluid pump is for the front is, the one at the lowest level is usually for the front. The idea behind this is when you start to run out the front will last the longest.
That 'auxilary'' seatbelt in the back on the headliner is for the back middle seat. Since the middle seat is rarely used, that lets the cross chest seatbelt stay out of the way if you need to lower the back seats to make extra room.
the seat belt in the roof is for the 3rd passenger (the middle) in some country's it's now mandatory with 3 point belts on all passengers including the middle. and yes they do have a slight difference so you can't use them in the wrong hole
My 2014 Jeep is like that too. So not uncommon in the US 10 years ago. I only see it and hatchbacks and SUVs. Sedans have a different design for the center belt since the don't have an open cargo area.
TPMS light can be something as simple as tire pressure. Since it got cold here the Nissan TPMS light comes on when cold but goes off when the tires heat up after driving a while. Checking the pressure when cold all tires needed 1-2 pounds to get up to specification. If the TPMS light come on while driving a tire is losing pressure so you may have picked up a foreign object. A blinking TPMS is usually a sign of a sensor problem where the sensor battery have have pooped out and needs replacement. The Nissan TPMS is quite sensitive.
On the unlisted videos. I want to let you know that if you log into your RUclips account. On both your cellphone and television. (must be the same account with same log in.) you first need to open the the unlisted video on your smartphone. Then open RUclips on the television. On go to your watch history. You'll be able to watch is there from your television.
When I go to look at a car, dealers don`t like it when I pull out my scanner to look at some live data just to keep them truthful. My ex wife bought a car without me and Karma bitch slapped her hard. Used car lot pulled the check engine bulb and I found six codes to the tune of 500 bucks in OEM sensors that were not happy. My son was the one who asked me to check it after she bought it. I told her I would go with to check it out before she bought a headache. She got a headache and my son gave her guff for not listening.. I`m surprised that little 1.5L Yaris could get out of it`s own way. Have yourself a great week Ray.
That clip on the rear seat that didnt work is for the middle seat, the belt on the rear of the roof is for a middle passenger, in the europe this car seats 3 in the rear, not sure if its the same on the US version but it looks like it
The newer Toyota TPMS sensors have rubber stems. They are generally on newer models that actually self-program the serial number and corner from a simple dash reset. I think Toyota dumped the old indirect (ABS-reading) TPMS around 2008, but some models retained the sensor in the spare, which would often trigger a light when the driver didn't realize their spare was low.
As marketing this video to dealers doing pre purchase inspections. I think 99.9% of us aren't. Great way to kill a channel, the videos have got stale and boring
I hate to encourage "hard to repair", but easily accessible catalytic converters might be an exception. Some cars tuck them up inside the engine compartment. For this one thing, I can't complain. I had the broken indicator done to me once. Bought a car, turns out oil light sensor was disconnected. Oil light flickered at idle. Had oil pump replaced, worked for years, until someone borrowed it and it came back with a rod knock. Drove it from Texas to Georgia at least twice. You can drive old engines, just don't horse them around.
I had a 2008 Toyota Yaris, extremely good on gas. Unfortunately it was involved in a car accident because of how light it was, the car that rammed behind me bent the frame. I was prepared for a totaling out since the frame damage, the insurance company paid to repair it since parts were sooo cheap. Most Yaris cars I have been in or driven, the right rear speaker always made crackles, not sure why, with a different radio in there it was better though. LOL I had the sedan variant and was getting close to 50 mph on the highway.
Never thought I'd get dizzy watching a video. My washer pump wasn't spraying so I bought a new one, pulled out the inner fender to get access to the pump, and found out the only problem I had was the hose fell off. Anyone need a new washer pump? 😒😁
i actually love the "tie back hack" lol. i used to use tie backs for wheel trims and loose under-engine covers where bolts or fastenings were broken or missing. theres a weird thing here in England, they have stopped mechanics taking these under covers off during yearly inspections (what we call an MOT). i think its because the covers would often be lost or damaged so it stops that but you then get a note on your MOT that the cover is in place and couldnt be removed... as if an owner is going to remove it, lol yeah right. crazy ideas honestly
I wanted to note the marketing ploy on the rear wheels. The hub caps have a 5 bolt pattern making them look more beefy. Yet the actual wheel only has 4 bolts. Just thought id point that out.
Odd that the driver and passenger hubcaps are different. Great post purchase inspection though. The previous owner took good care of that car. Thank you Ray!
35:30 Funny story - I started getting misfires on cylinder 8 of my 2uz-fe. Super weird as I had dropped her off for new plugs right after purchase (along with all oils, coolant, etc.) Thought it was coil pack, but I decided to check the spark plug - found a factory spark plug - and that's a 2006 engine. All others were brand new. Guess they forgot that one.
The vehicle has room for a third person in the rear. The aux belt that you found is for the middle passenger. The aux belt will only work with the 'spare' buckle. The spare buckle will not work with any of the other rear seat belts. Hope that helps
One thing to note on those rear drum brakes: the shoes may be thin normally. We had a 2008 Hyundai Accent that I pulled the rear drums to check and thought the shoes were thin. Bought new set and discovered they were thin from new and didn't need changing. Returned the new shoes and put it back together. Ended up NEVER changing the rear shoes (140,000 miles). We got rid of the car and it was still fine out back. Our 2015 Subaru Crosstrek on the other hand wore out the rear disc pads around 60,000 miles for some reason.
AWD vehicles with Trac control, will wear the rear pads just as quick as the fronts. The traction control will pulse the rear brakes at speed to maintain traction
as the other guy said, if it has AWD a lot of the way it distributes power under traction control is the brakes. a wheel slips, itll lock the opposite brakes to 100% of the power goes to the wheel that needs it. subaru has one of the best AWD systems so id expect front and back to be bad at the same time. just like they need all 4 tires replaced together, too much tread difference will actually break the transmission
One item I always look for is if the engine has a timing chain or a belt. This Yaris has a chain so all good if there is no noise. If the engine has a belt, I want to know when last changed. If it needs replacement, I haggle the replacement into the price. If the seller doesn't want to deal, then adios! I also check the serpentine belt, battery condition and alternator charging.
13:30 I would have checked the paperwork incase something was left from a previous owner and I would have inspected the cabin filter myself. My son is driving my late father's car and when I went to inspect the cabin air filter, there wasn't one installed (has the opening). I don't know why it wasn't there, and can't ask dad anymore.
Hi Ray, another good video. Just 2 comments: IMHO TPMS sensors are a royal pain. I have a 2006 Tacoma and one or more of the sensors are dead. I never like them in the first place because every time the temperature changed you had to reset them. This is just for people that are to ignorant not check their tire pressure regularly, they need another moronic idiot light. Last comment: Please trim your tie wraps flush so they don't cut the heck out of someone's hands or arm when reaching back over the engine during a tune up. I don't know how many times I've cut myself on a sharp tie wrap end because someone trimmed it and left a sharp point on the end. Great idea as usual. 😊😊😊
You should also fully inspect your own car when it comes back from a body shop, detailing, and repair shops. I found hidden damage that shop overlooked! They fixed it at no additional cost.
Yaris will hold the gear on the transmission longer on the 2-3, 3-4 shift when it’s cold in order to warm up the engine faster. At first I thought mine had an issue until I figured that out.
As hit or miss as I have found aftermarket lift struts to be, If the existing ones are holding the load, I would wipe some LP2 or similar on shaft and see if it "silenced" squeak before I would consider replacing it. Another great video !!!
Hi Ray, the safety belt back, is another lock to the middle, 3 person pasensergeren, no option for cross assist, all cars with 3 options for 3 passengers in the back seat. the middle. greetings Denmark :-)
i remember a work buddy in the 70s got himself a second hand car after passing his driving test an he over heard his mate talking about putting oil in the engine every week so he thought that was the done thing a month a two later he was complaining about oil on his wind screen he had over filled just a bit
Part 2 Push Don’t Pull Mechanic Stabbed in the Eye! 2012 Toyota Yaris 1.5 Drum Brake Job ruclips.net/video/5KhreWphAQw/видео.html
😂😂😂 you still have it private
Lol... not that super secret
No idea why but links never appear in the upper right of the video & I'm watching on my PC.
@@GARDENER42 you might have annotations turned off.
@@HasPotatoAim I wouldn't know where to look & check.
Word of the day: Copacetic Thanks, Ray!
and that is why people love older toyotas. super build quality and the right amount of electronics.
Two videos in one, no waiting, nice!
That Yaris is in top condition for 11 years old 👍
Someone found themselves a very nice used car. It's very clean all over and all under. Never paid much attention to Yaris but this one is nice!
Rain man Ray does all such things .
I have a Suzuki Baleno off 2000. 23 years old!!!! 105.000kls manuall. 1.3l.16v 90hp. Verry peppy and great fuelconsumptuon. Its got AC,electric windows,electric/heated side mirrors,ABS. I love it!!!
When I watch your videos my mood changes, you put a lot of energy and fun and that makes me happy.
Love to see the trolling when cutting the zip ties off at a sharp angle.
As mentioned about touching all the knobs and switches. The F/B page for my wife's 2023 KIA often get posts asking what does this button do along with a picture of it. Most response are "push it and find out" or read the manual.
Thanks for the video Ray! whoever owned this car for the past 11+ years did an outstanding job on the maintenance, other than the worn out driver's seat, this is in fantastic shape for 133K +miles. Interesting on the oil overfill and black tape covering the tpms - but what a wonderful used car.
Yeah, there's no way a car of that age in the UK would be in such good condition, with virtually zero rust..!!
Hi Ray, I have to say that I thoroughly enjoyed the videos on the Toyota Yaris. You did an excellent inspection. I'm a little biased as I own a 2009 Yaris RS that only has 7500 kms or 4600 miles. Mine is fully loaded with all the amenities. It was shipped over from Japan and even the Goodyear tires are stamped, made in Japan. I would like more videos like this where you pick apart a used car and try to find any defects. The owner who bought the Yaris is a lucky person as these cars are very well made and will last a long time. All your videos are top notch and glad now that you have your own shop. Wish you lived in my neck of the woods as you would be my only mechanic.
This is cool. Post purchase inspection is still covered under "The Lemon Law". If it has been purchased for less than 90 days.
One other thing I always do as part of a pre-purchase inspection .. I carry my Bluetooth OBDII reader and my phone with the Torque app so I can do a basic code read... What I'm looking for primarily is that the drive cycle readiness tests have all completed... If I see the drive cycle hasn't completed, it's a red flag that the seller has recently cleared trouble codes, and I may find it sets a code once the drive cycle has been completed (such as an evap code, as that's usually the last drive cycle test to complete). Now it's also possible that it simply means the battery was disconnected recently... But it's always something you want to check. Many times I've caught independent dealers and private sellers trying to conceal an issue that would set a code and illuminate the MIL by clearing the codes.
This is a great video, again I learned a lot watching and I have been wrenching on my own cars for almost 50 years. That little Toyota was in great shape for its age and mileage, someone cared about it and gave it good care.
07:21 The center rear seat belt (the one overhead in the cargo bay) has two latching tongues on it, the smaller (normally asymmetric) one goes to the black buckle on the R/H side. The main buckle (red release button) on this belt goes to the L/H outboard center buckle marked "center belt". They are clearly labeled on all variants of this vehicle I have seen and also on nearly all vehicles I have inspected that have detachable center belt diagonal fasteners.
Also, did you check the child restraint function on those rear belts? All these models have a built in restraint system for a child seat. You fasten the belt as normal then pull the belt out to it's full extent which will engage it's ratchet restraint system. You then return the belt to a comfortable (or for ridgid child seats, a solid) position. From this point, if the mechanism is working properly, cannot be extended again without being unlatched and returned to full retraction.
The locking mechanism is not a child restraint function. It's a retraction locking mechanism for crashes mandated in 1996 and newer vehicles. It's just an extra convenience to use it as a cinch strap for seats.
Good to know that. *Thank you* for providing that information much appreciated. 👍👍
@@Boga217 - both, when extended out completely, then permitted to retract partially, it's meant to lock into place for retaining cargo or child car seats (the owners manual will state as much) AND the inertia wheel is meant to lock upon rapid extension similar to a crash or sudden stop as you mentioned.
@@RickJohnson never read that part of the manual and always owned older vehicles that didn't have manuals..that's cool to know they actually designed them for that too.
I live in canada and it always amazes me to see a car with no rust, I seen new cars in the show room with rust starting on the bumper and frame.
I have an 07 Yaris sedan. Great little car. Had to replace the alternator, water pump, and do some brake work. Everything works, no leaks or issues. 170k miles. Gets about 30 mpg around town with a lot of stop and go, better on the freeway. Cheap and easy to work on.
I also have an '07. 5 speed manual 1.3, got it for half price because it had a fried clutch. Clutch, radiator and rear brakes since I bought it 3 years ago.
14:00 always check UNDER the floor mats. Home inspector failed to catch a hole in a bathtub because there was a bath mat in the tub covering it.
I like the beetle dispenser feature. 😂
I checked my truck, no beetles coming out of the defrost vent, guess I am gonna be fixing that this weekend.
The engine compartment looks nice. Everything looks accessible and it's clean.
I really don't care how long your videos are I do find them enjoyable I do watch them to the end
That third rear seat belt latch (center) is for the belt you saw on the roof by the back door.
I have Dish tv . Made the transition to part 2 . Thanks great instructions. I’m 72 years old . Been working on stuff since 1962 - hold that light still it was 8 below .
i do this once a month on our cars I am glad you showed it as many do not know what to do over here in the uk when you are taking a test to drive a car on your own you have to know some of this ,thanks for the very informative video
Caveat Emptor.
That car is incredibly clean for the miles. Great video to help people buying a car.
I once had a TPMS light set off by my spare tire. I would check it’s pressure too.
Most people forget about the spare tire.
Further north, we also run fingers along the length of wiper blades for roughness - ice and snow in winter can tear the blades up. (In fact, wiper blades more than a couple of years old tend to be due for replacement)
I tend to replace wiper blades about once a year. They are cheap enough and easy enough to do.
Toyota Yaris... arguably the most reliable car on the planet. This one looks very clean... maintain it well and the new owner will drive many carefree miles.
The extra belt and latch is for the middle seat.
G'day Ray and Wife Unit, hope you've had a great weekend up north!
The dash on those things are a TRIP! But absolutely brilliant from a manufacturing perspective because one dash fits both left and right hand drive.
I find the parallax involved in having the speedometer so far off to my right makes me continually overestimate what speed it’s pointing at. Still a robust little car.
@@richardzajac3828 IKR??
@@richardzajac3828 Mine has a digital speedo! 😎
Glad to see you back Ray, really enjoyed your video with ARod. Can't wait to see the interior of Truck when its done. Keep up the awesome videos Sir.
When i and my friends were first buying a car . The first thing we checked was the radio ,speekers ,sound. Then we checked other things such as oil, trans fluid , radiator fluid . Then on to start up ,how the motor sounded ,miles on it. My first car bought was 69 Buik Skylark for a hundred bucks ,back in 81
Whenever you ask for help always get them to do the simplest thing possible.
Normally means them sitting in the drivers seat and doing what is needed whilst you actually check the issue out (for your own sanity!).
Hey , I appreciate your understanding of us that watch on TV , thank you all the way from Northern Ireland ❤❤
One thing you forgot, at least on video as of 19:13 is the wiper functions. You checked blade condition but not functionality or washer. It appears to be in excellent shape for the age. Must be a southern vehicle and well cared for.
Very likely as he is back in Sarasota FL.
24:20 I replaced all 6 coil connectors on a sienna for $15. You just push the pins out of the old connector and install in the new connector. No splicing, no soldering, easy.
Be advised the fender liner by the washer pump is a replacement.
Check for bodywork!
I absolutely do not understand a post purchase inspection. A pre purchase inspection makes way more sense to me.
Totaly right, it's a nonsense for me !!
Buyers remorse/regret, after an impulse purchase, something caused them to think "oh man, maybe I gots a lemon", and now they're having it gone over to decide if it's worth keeping or not
Generally can't find something intermittent or check a sparkplug. Generally a person checks that it operates and is legal during pre-purchase. also the post can find hidden information from check engine lights that may have been turned off. its kind of invasive to plug in a scan tool in a front yard although honestly for prices of used cars it should be common
I did one, I got the car from my neighbor a highly trusted person all I checked was for rust. Send it to the mechanic and told him if you find anything fix it.
People who don’t do their own maintenance tend to do this. It’s sort of a preventative maintenance thing. They don’t trust themselves to recognise a potential problem with a car they’re not yet familiar with, so they get a pro to go through it and fix anything that matters.
It’s a risky task to take on, because it exposes the mechanic to potential liability, if something he hasn’t highlighted subsequently fails.
I only do it for trusted regulars, subject to a disclaimer and not for profit.
Brake lights and backup lights can be checked w/o an assistant by backing up near a wall or glass door/window and looking in rearview mirror for illumination reflection. You didn't mention checking battery voltage, but seemed to have no issues there (voltage drop reading during startup is easily captured with a multimeter that has a dedicated MIN/MAX function). Glad you mentioned the door/hatch seals and checking for leaks (water/wind noise leaks) especially since it's a FL car that sees plenty of rain. Nice job overall Ray, impressed that you caught the black tape hiding the TPMS light and even more impressed that you found an apparent tire patch or previous nail impression. 👍
Didn't check rear wiper blade😊
22:40
I have done a lot of these inspections in my 65 year career and I was a little suspicious of the pristine condition of the front clip after 100K plus miles. I also saw the paper label on the fender skirt that you loosened to see the windshield washer motor, this looks like a replacement part. I couldn't zoom in to read it. I would look very closely at the supports for the front clip and associated metal I suspect there might be a crash repair of the front end. Maybe a car fax check although I have found errors with them. The only other thing I do as a routine is check tie tire tread area for nails/ screws that may need to be repaired or removed. Great job as always.
I’ve said it once and I’ll say it again. You could teach a lot of so called “mechanics” a huge lesson on how to properly work on a vehicle . Some shops will literally hire someone and set them loose on whatever unlucky vehicle that comes in that day. I swear I talked to a kid that works at a local shop that didn’t know the difference between a strut and a shock. You learn that jazz on day one dude!
Drums have two M8x1.25mm threaded holes for pushing the drums away from hub most Japanese cars have this set up
I thought my 2004 Corolla was tiny when i bought it new.
Today it is about the same size as a new Camry.
Nice video Ray!
A little tip to find out which washer fluid pump is for the front is, the one at the lowest level is usually for the front. The idea behind this is when you start to run out the front will last the longest.
I had a '97 Starlet for a few years. Similar to a Yaris. Good car. Used bugger all fuel, good pickup and handling.
That 'auxilary'' seatbelt in the back on the headliner is for the back middle seat. Since the middle seat is rarely used, that lets the cross chest seatbelt stay out of the way if you need to lower the back seats to make extra room.
Love that plug connector zip-tie hack Ray. Great tip.
My first check for the washer pump would have been for a fuse.....
....unless you knew both were on the same fuse.
Thanks for the video.
the seat belt in the roof is for the 3rd passenger (the middle) in some country's it's now mandatory with 3 point belts on all passengers including the middle. and yes they do have a slight difference so you can't use them in the wrong hole
Its certainly been like this is Europe for at least 10 years.
My 2014 Jeep is like that too. So not uncommon in the US 10 years ago.
I only see it and hatchbacks and SUVs. Sedans have a different design for the center belt since the don't have an open cargo area.
TPMS light can be something as simple as tire pressure.
Since it got cold here the Nissan TPMS light comes on when cold but goes off when the tires heat up after driving a while.
Checking the pressure when cold all tires needed 1-2 pounds to get up to specification.
If the TPMS light come on while driving a tire is losing pressure so you may have picked up a foreign object.
A blinking TPMS is usually a sign of a sensor problem where the sensor battery have have pooped out and needs replacement.
The Nissan TPMS is quite sensitive.
A pre-purchase inspection is good for those who don't know how to choose a car or a good one to choose from.
On the unlisted videos. I want to let you know that if you log into your RUclips account. On both your cellphone and television. (must be the same account with same log in.) you first need to open the the unlisted video on your smartphone. Then open RUclips on the television. On go to your watch history. You'll be able to watch is there from your television.
The belt above the centre is the 3 rear seat belt it hs 2 fasteners thats why the seat belt wouldn't engage when you tried it
Hey Ray, My 2018 1500 Ram has TPS system with rubber valve stems. Thank you for all your efforts.
You should've tried the auxiliary seatbelt in the seatbelt latch that didn't lock. That might be by design so you don't latch the wrong belt.
It is by design one of the seatbelts holders is marked center
this is true, center only holds center, wont hold the side one. nice catch
GOOD MORNING, RAY!
When I go to look at a car, dealers don`t like it when I pull out my scanner to look at some live data just to keep them truthful. My ex wife bought a car without me and Karma bitch slapped her hard. Used car lot pulled the check engine bulb and I found six codes to the tune of 500 bucks in OEM sensors that were not happy. My son was the one who asked me to check it after she bought it. I told her I would go with to check it out before she bought a headache. She got a headache and my son gave her guff for not listening.. I`m surprised that little 1.5L Yaris could get out of it`s own way. Have yourself a great week Ray.
We have a lot of these Yarises here in Australia.They are on a whole a great little car..
That clip on the rear seat that didnt work is for the middle seat, the belt on the rear of the roof is for a middle passenger, in the europe this car seats 3 in the rear, not sure if its the same on the US version but it looks like it
The newer Toyota TPMS sensors have rubber stems. They are generally on newer models that actually self-program the serial number and corner from a simple dash reset.
I think Toyota dumped the old indirect (ABS-reading) TPMS around 2008, but some models retained the sensor in the spare, which would often trigger a light when the driver didn't realize their spare was low.
First set of tires that I have ever seen with lettering one the tread. Nice car.
TPMS light is lit.
Finds a spot where a nail went in and came out.
No connection made between the two (yet). Then again, I'm only halfway through it.
So on the Passenger side Inner door latch handle you can see that the fabric is pulling away from the door latch handle pocket
That's a sweet little car in excellent shape. I'd need another for the other foot.
As marketing this video to dealers doing pre purchase inspections. I think 99.9% of us aren't. Great way to kill a channel, the videos have got stale and boring
I hate to encourage "hard to repair", but easily accessible catalytic converters might be an exception. Some cars tuck them up inside the engine compartment. For this one thing, I can't complain.
I had the broken indicator done to me once. Bought a car, turns out oil light sensor was disconnected.
Oil light flickered at idle. Had oil pump replaced, worked for years, until someone borrowed it and it came back with a rod knock. Drove it from Texas to Georgia at least twice.
You can drive old engines, just don't horse them around.
I had a 2008 Toyota Yaris, extremely good on gas. Unfortunately it was involved in a car accident because of how light it was, the car that rammed behind me bent the frame. I was prepared for a totaling out since the frame damage, the insurance company paid to repair it since parts were sooo cheap.
Most Yaris cars I have been in or driven, the right rear speaker always made crackles, not sure why, with a different radio in there it was better though. LOL I had the sedan variant and was getting close to 50 mph on the highway.
I like those front cup holders!
Never thought I'd get dizzy watching a video.
My washer pump wasn't spraying so I bought a new one, pulled out the inner fender to get access to the pump, and found out the only problem I had was the hose fell off. Anyone need a new washer pump? 😒😁
i actually love the "tie back hack" lol. i used to use tie backs for wheel trims and loose under-engine covers where bolts or fastenings were broken or missing. theres a weird thing here in England, they have stopped mechanics taking these under covers off during yearly inspections (what we call an MOT). i think its because the covers would often be lost or damaged so it stops that but you then get a note on your MOT that the cover is in place and couldnt be removed... as if an owner is going to remove it, lol yeah right. crazy ideas honestly
I wanted to note the marketing ploy on the rear wheels. The hub caps have a 5 bolt pattern making them look more beefy. Yet the actual wheel only has 4 bolts. Just thought id point that out.
I have some generic 5 lug wheel covers that hid a 6 lug steel wheel underneath, LoL
Going to sell those and get better covers for my van
Odd that the driver and passenger hubcaps are different. Great post purchase inspection though. The previous owner took good care of that car. Thank you Ray!
That spare tire hatch looks good. Real clean. Not to get weird.
This is an awesome video. This is exactly what I needed.
Keep up the awesome videos Ray!
35:30 Funny story - I started getting misfires on cylinder 8 of my 2uz-fe.
Super weird as I had dropped her off for new plugs right after purchase (along with all oils, coolant, etc.)
Thought it was coil pack, but I decided to check the spark plug - found a factory spark plug - and that's a 2006 engine.
All others were brand new.
Guess they forgot that one.
The third seat belt latch is for the middle passenger in the rear seat
The vehicle has room for a third person in the rear.
The aux belt that you found is for the middle passenger.
The aux belt will only work with the 'spare' buckle.
The spare buckle will not work with any of the other rear seat belts.
Hope that helps
My Girls got one of these Yaries 336,000miles! Gets used as a daily and a work truck on the farm.
Your Huge Teardown project in the background . . . nice, still waiting ot be done. . . good video when it will be finished.
You can still have rubber valve stems if it has band-type TPMS sernsors.
One thing to note on those rear drum brakes: the shoes may be thin normally. We had a 2008 Hyundai Accent that I pulled the rear drums to check and thought the shoes were thin. Bought new set and discovered they were thin from new and didn't need changing. Returned the new shoes and put it back together. Ended up NEVER changing the rear shoes (140,000 miles). We got rid of the car and it was still fine out back. Our 2015 Subaru Crosstrek on the other hand wore out the rear disc pads around 60,000 miles for some reason.
AWD vehicles with Trac control, will wear the rear pads just as quick as the fronts. The traction control will pulse the rear brakes at speed to maintain traction
as the other guy said, if it has AWD a lot of the way it distributes power under traction control is the brakes. a wheel slips, itll lock the opposite brakes to 100% of the power goes to the wheel that needs it. subaru has one of the best AWD systems so id expect front and back to be bad at the same time. just like they need all 4 tires replaced together, too much tread difference will actually break the transmission
One item I always look for is if the engine has a timing chain or a belt. This Yaris has a chain so all good if there is no noise. If the engine has a belt, I want to know when last changed. If it needs replacement, I haggle the replacement into the price. If the seller doesn't want to deal, then adios! I also check the serpentine belt, battery condition and alternator charging.
Washer pump diagnosis should always start, with checking the fuse...
Also check the dampening of the shock absorbers.
Cute little car love it very good condition, aww look at that nice Silverado sitting in the background
13:30 I would have checked the paperwork incase something was left from a previous owner and I would have inspected the cabin filter myself. My son is driving my late father's car and when I went to inspect the cabin air filter, there wasn't one installed (has the opening). I don't know why it wasn't there, and can't ask dad anymore.
Hi Ray, another good video.
Just 2 comments: IMHO TPMS sensors are a royal pain. I have a 2006 Tacoma and one or more of the sensors are dead. I never like them in the first place because every time the temperature changed you had to reset them. This is just for people that are to ignorant not check their tire pressure regularly, they need another moronic idiot light.
Last comment: Please trim your tie wraps flush so they don't cut the heck out of someone's hands or arm when reaching back over the engine during a tune up. I don't know how many times I've cut myself on a sharp tie wrap end because someone trimmed it and left a sharp point on the end. Great idea as usual. 😊😊😊
You should also fully inspect your own car when it comes back from a body shop, detailing, and repair shops. I found hidden damage that shop overlooked! They fixed it at no additional cost.
Yaris will hold the gear on the transmission longer on the 2-3, 3-4 shift when it’s cold in order to warm up the engine faster. At first I thought mine had an issue until I figured that out.
give the wiper motor a tapity tap with a spanner. It may need some encouragement to get the armature to start rotating.
I always take a USB, OBD2 port reader with me. The app gives great info like number of starts since the last DTC was cleared! Speaks volumes
There are splash shields on right and left side in front. eBay motors. $54.
As hit or miss as I have found aftermarket lift struts to be, If the existing ones are holding the load, I would wipe some LP2 or similar on shaft and see if it "silenced" squeak before I would consider replacing it. Another great video !!!
Hey Ray check behind the rear bumper ,the fastening if it's not there the bumper flaps about while driving
Hi Ray, the safety belt back, is another lock to the middle, 3 person pasensergeren, no option for cross assist, all cars with 3 options for 3 passengers in the back seat. the middle. greetings Denmark :-)
i remember a work buddy in the 70s got himself a second hand car after passing his driving test an he over heard his mate talking about putting oil in the engine every week so he thought that was the done thing a month a two later he was complaining about oil on his wind screen he had over filled just a bit