🔵APPLICATION RATES: Urea (0.15lbs of N) = 0.3 lbs of product per 1k sqft Ammonium Sulfate (0.15lbs of N) = 0.70 lbs of product per 1k sqft *Should be mixed with 1 gallon of water per 1k sqft
Fastest way to convert to pounds on the ground: 1) plug in your desired amount of nitrogen into the calculator (.15 when aiming at .15# / K’) 2) divide that by .21 for AMS since AMS is 21% N (21-0-0) 3) for a 2400 square foot lawn, multiply this number by 2.4… done… 0.714# / 1000 square feet
@@IntegrityDistribution If using AMS what are the light, med and heavy amounts to use per gallon of water? I'm planning on trying AMS this season in a two gallon sprayer.
George. Great video. Thanks for putting this out. Two questions: 1- Do you water this in post application? Can you do a heavy water in, like 1 inch? 2- How often can you apply this at the rate of .7 lbs/1,000 sq feet? Could I do it weekly to keep a dark green color?
I've been using ammonia sulfate in granular form (21-0-0) for over 20 years with exceptional results. However, be cautious during excessive heat. I stumbled upon your video and have done research on DEF as well. I recently came up with a concoction that has literally changed the appearance of my grass within several days....and it looks beautiful. I prefer to use ammonia sulfate during cooler times of the year, but now with your help and numerous other you tube videos & articles I have read... I think I may have found my go to fertilizer. I appreciate your videos. Thank you 👊🏼
Interesting results, I use both and have never seen a noticeable difference between the two. May have to do a side-by-side in my own yard. Only suggested difference in testing would be to lay out the test plots in more of a grid pattern, even just a 2x2 grid. Takes away the chance that any enviromental factors played a role (i.e. heat from proximity to sidewalk, amount of shade, etc). Good video though!
I've been saying this for a long time on my channel George, AS is immediately plant available so it instantly enters the plant and goes to work. Urea on the other hand has to be broken down by soil microbes, takes only a few days but if you lose any to the atmosphere and it takes a few days to start working then the AS will always look better on day 10. AS can also be lost in the soil for other reasons but in the summer it will perform out of the gate very quickly. A good update would be around day 20-30 after the urea has been transformed into plant available nitrogen but before the AS has been all used up. I still stand behind my use of natural N sources however slow they may be. 😁 All in all, fun video and worth watching and experimenting!
I had heard that also but I think you’re wrong here turf mechanic. I’ve tried urea in the heat of Summer on an irrigated and 30% compost soil that tested crazy high for soil health in CO2 burst (aka extremely high microbe activity) and urea was noticeably worse than ammonium sulfate and allowing it to break down didn’t help anything and yes, I watered it in… AMS creates a much darker lawn and it can’t just be that the AMS is faster because I tried urea spoon fed about every 10 days for at least a month and nothing my color slowly bleached… I thought my reduction in color was due to Summer heat, but when I went back to AMS my color came right back and stayed back even at lower rates than urea… watered in every time… watering about .4” every 3 days. I had heard that urea just took a few extra days to kick in and I figured urea would be a good tool during the Summer for it’s lower salt index but it simply didn’t perform (99% purity low biuret - MFG by Yara… premium urea). I’ll go further and say even when a fertilizer is balanced for nitrogen sources I notice a huge difference in color and don’t even use products like GrowORR anymore or I’ll be let down. AMS is king for me (at least with PRG). Green doc knows a lot more than either of us (20 times more) and even my lawn is significantly greener than I’ve ever seen yours despite being much shorter and even in the middle of Summer but much of that could just be cultivars. Just trying to say I’d give AMS a more thorough testing because I’m pretty sure you missed something here if color is important to you and I think Rey Ito is very much right here as I’ve given urea every chance but it just doesn’t shine when it comes to color even at higher rates. My PH is at 6.5. My cultivars are Hattrick and Pangea perennial rye reel mowed. I think everyone already knows AMS is more quickly available, but there’s more to it than that. That microbe mention is partially correct, but not in the context of color. Adding a sulfur nutrient mixed with urea might yield a similar green. My micros are good. My soil is awesome including PH… far too much organic matter for most climates, but I can get away with it in my climate. I doubt there are many soils with better microbe activity than mine but still urea was the weak link.
@@IntegrityDistribution I have added sulfur to the big-box stores urea fertilizers the past 6 years. In my experience in the Chicago soils 7.2 pH clay heavy, ammonia sulfate was still the best fertilizer I ever used both for color and for strong growth. It may as well been a testosterone boost for the boy grass.
I have used Ammonia Sulphate to prepare the ground for growing season. Another words, six weeks from growing season. I found a good way to remember when to apply the Fertilizer. On NFL Super Bowl Sunday. The Nitrogen is for boosting growth. And the Sulphate is to get rid of any bad bacteria that might hinder growth.
Neat comparison! Since the ammonium nitrate NO3 is in a form more readily available to the grass as compared to urea NH4 which needs added microbial activity I'd be curious to see what happens over time.
Hi! First thank you for the great videos! It was short and informative. I do have a question. After you spray AMS do you water it in? Or if not how long after spraying on lawn can you start irritating again?? Thx again
I’m interested to try and ordered the same products to do the same on my channel. Just curious to see if our results are the same. I would think they should be. And lowering my PH couldn’t hurt lol
I don’t know about colour but since my lawn had a high pH, AS was the game changer for me. My SA just grew better and actually finally started to look like SA lol and able to grow tall enough to cut to the 4” like you’re supposed to.
I sprayed ammonium sulfate, a micronutrient cocktail, and some seakelp with a little surfactant at the recommend rate over a day ago. Got rain last night and I'm hoping to see some good results soon.
I meant to do a similar test this year between Ammonium Nitrate, Ammonium Sulfate, Calcium Nitrate, and Potassium Nitrate. Grass in Texas [East] is struggling, drought condition and very hot temperatures.
Plant Prod sells a fert with all those nitrate sources. In comes in two bags inside the large bag and you mix to use. It is water soluble and "instantly" available. I don't remember the analysis except the first number is 17.
@@ultragreenllc I think this is fertigation or a special use but I saw it at a local nursery and I had never read an ingredient list with so many nitrates before!
This is been about the driest late spring and early summer and the Chicago area 2023 that I can remember in a couple decades. While I was starving the parkway from nutrients do do not knowing that old bags of fertilizer were impotent as pertains to the nitrogen, even with crummy calcium tap water I throw it on the grass because that's the only way to keep it alive. I hate to drink Bud light but if I want to get a buzz and that's the only thing in the refrigerator, then down the hatch it goes.
Love your videos they are so much fun not just a lot of talk but plenty of demos as well. I tried the Ammonium for the first time and my grass is darker and more uniform. Also the new grass is darker to start this year than it was last year. I wonder though if so much urea is lost, what would happen if you over apply in cooler weather to make up for the loss would that leave more available for the grass for better results? What do you think?
Thank you price! that just made my day my friend! We really try to focus on making our video an interactive experience so its a good feeling when we receive feedback like yours:) Also great question in regards to the urea, we found that its best to use the urea in mild temps (60-75 degrees) as ammonium sulfate will be much more effective in harsher temps on both sides of the spectrum - hot and cold. I wouldn't try to make up for lost nitrogen, just apply as usual but tailor the type of N you use for the current conditions. Appreciate you watching!
Can you take it step further and see if you can make it even darker. Add a granular iron and liquid iron test rectangles plots perpendicular to those plots. End with 12 boxes. Control- liquid iron- gradual iron Urea--Urea+liquid-Urea+gran Amm-Amm+liquid-Amm+gran
So I was about to run to Walmart and get DEF Fluid after watching another one of your videos Are you saying skip that crap and go straight to AS? I appreciate the videos always.
@@PrincessCutLawnCare My cool season (I believe fescue sod) is right around 6.8-7 on the PH scale. I had to add lime last year to raise it. Thanks for the reply!
I am going to follow your recommended rate of .70 lbs per 1k sqft. Here is what was confusing to me. On the bag of Hi-Yield Ammonium Sulfate, it recommends the below: 16 lb. bag - On Lawns - apply 1/2 lb. per 100 sq. ft. or 5 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. • 16 lb. bag will cover 4,000 sq. ft on lawn use. This rate is significantly different than your recommended rate. Am I missing something? Why would the bag rate recommend 5 lbs per 1k? Anyone feel free to answer!
Is there a recommendation that you have about what time of day would be most beneficial, regardless of fertilizer used, so that you would limit the amount of evaporation after application? Awesome video, and love that you did this in your front lawn. Lastly, the music! Not a single bad song. Can I get a track list, please?
appreciate it sir! i always make my apps in the early evening especially in summer to prevent fert burn, i will have to get the track names off my computer, ill get back to you. appreciate you noticing, my favorite part of editing is mixing music:)
@@PrincessCutLawnCare Sounds good, I appreciate you. I also have a couple followup questions for you. Do you give your grass a quick watering to help get the fertilizer down to the ground and roots to help get it off of the blades? Or is it no issue since there isn't any direct sunlight for a while?
I think… The mistake made is that the greening comes from the lowered PH of the soil. Not the source in and of itself. Also repeat apps of the AS will lead to diminished returns and what I learned the hard way is stopped growth and needing massive watering. I went back to U this year and it’s ultra thick and green. I may do AS once just for PH control. (Lower ph allow for better iron absorption)
I’ve seen similar results. My ph is already on the low side and irrigation with city water seems to only make that worse. I’m getting better results with Urea. I might do a side by side test now too!
So if you add ammonium sulfate to your entire front lawn, you will definitely have a case of lawn envy from your neighbors. BTW 7.7 on the PH scale. I swear our SE Virginia lawn is in the 4s- fighting acidity.
George - Fellow Chicago suburbanite here - when is the best time to start a fall overseedproject? Can I start this in mid-august - it supposed to be cooler for the next 7 days. Thanks. Enjoy your content.
heyyy what up neighbor! the temps have been nice lately! However i would air on the side of caution starting too early because we dont want our seeds to sprout and then we get 2 weeks straight of 90 degrees weather (you know how chicago is lol) i would hold off to see what the temps are looking like after this cool spell and if it looks like its going to continue than go for it hope that helps!
I use Milorganite several times a year on my lawn and it really helps with having a dark green lawn. I may have to experiment with the ammonium sulfate to see if it works better.
Glad to help! Wife has BS in Horticulture so we get to have all of these fun discussions lol. She said better to stick with the urea solution and mix iron, that way not messing with soil pH. *shrug*
I always appreciate seeing you have a video for whatever i look up, great content and production skills! This video generated some questions and im in need of some help. I got my soil test results, and learned my pH level is way too high. This is leading me to believe the stresses I have seen could be related to that. Will Ammonium Sulfate rapidly reduce the pH level of my soil for a healthier lawn this season? If so, would it be safe to say that fix is temporary? Are you able to advise if I am safe putting down something like Mag-I-Cal by Jonathan Green, knowing it can take a season if not longer to reduce that pH by a point or so? I need and would love your input.
AMS will slowly, over the course of a year in sandy soil lower the PH by .5 or so. In loam or clay soil it will take about twice as long. Not sure on the other product you mentioned. Hope this helps a bit. I've seen elemental sulphur be applied at the same time as the AMS and it works a lot quicker than AMS alone. Elemental sulphur is not cheap however.
My neighbors use urea only on their lawns, and I kind of agree that their lawn is green, but the shade of green is a little off and the blades look almost waxy.
@@PrincessCutLawnCare I have to be super careful to not use any products with P in them because my soil test came back super high in P. So I spoon feed straight Ammonium Sulfate in the spring and fall, but move to more K, less N in the summer. And I use lots of wetting agents, baby soap, and humic products. Maybe I am just throwing spaghetti at the wall, but stuff is sticking. Because my lawns look great. People ALWAYS ask me what I do, looking for a quick, easy, and cheap solution. The problem is that there are no quick, easy and cheap solutions. The harder you work, the better your lawn looks. Its a whole thing.....
i applied the same amounts of urea and def in each video, so the urea plot in this video would be an accurate representation of how the def would look against the AMS
AMS yields significantly higher greening nutrient uptake into the tissue. There is essentially no need to apply iron if using AMS. Also, AMS is significantly better absorbed in cold temperatures. Jack’s nutrients by J.R. Peter’s is a killer micronutrient to combine with AMS especially in summer… just iron can become counterproductive if not combined with Zinc and Manganese…Jacks is premium EDTA chelated micros and also has lots of potassium to manage water movement and disease resistance in the plant. The bigger difference is doing this same experiment at 40° average temps… urea will give nearly zero color response, and AMS will be dark green. The 28% sulfer is the main reason for deeper greening (iron uptake among other nutrients), but ammoniacal nitrogen like AMS is also more readily available. The acidifying effects of urea are roughly 60% that of AMS… rule of thumb… 1# of urea nitrogen requires about 3# of lime to offset (in acidic soils) and 1# of AMS requires 5# of lime to offset the acidifying nature of AMS. All Nitrogen is acidifying to varying degrees. West of Mississippi River generally acidic soil, east of Mississippi River generally basic. In my opinion AMS is the way to go for spoon fed high input lawns. ProPEAT is AMS based… but… for even color, spraying is best, and DO NOT BUY AMS at Lowes or HD… it has a wax used to prill it that will render the product completely useless in a sprayer. Amazon or Greenway are good options. The bag should say “Water Soluble”.
how many lbs of N to 1 gal of carrier water can i spray per 1k with AMS without having to water it in? I like Urea because i can do weekly apps @ 0.20lbs in 1 gal and not have to water it in. I don't have an irrigation system so this has been incredibly valuable. I want to switch to AMS in the later fall, but i'm kind of new to the math and urea has been safe/easy for me so far.
@@PrincessCutLawnCare Yeah, according to The Green Doc of Hawaii (for any newer reader, this is not the super markup lord of SuperJuice ‘How to with Doc’ … different doc) he always recommends iron in conjunction with other specific micros or the excess iron will actually create competition with Mn and Z and often create less chlorophyll production, and I don’t know anyone that knows more than Ray on TGF (or even close really). When applying a straight iron (even a PH buffered EDTA folliar with surfactant to give iron it’s best chance at results) zero color difference will be observed in my lawn… I believe what is half fooling people with iron products is liquid iron products are virtually always juiced with a notable amount of urea (Ferromec for example is 15% urea, and similar story with Midnight & Feature), so it’s likely the urea that is doing the heavy lifting with any observed greening. The reason I say that is when applying Ferromec which is nearly the lowest quality iron source that is basically not plant available to any major extent I got tons of color response when I started, but I observed zero color when applying extremely high quality iron in isolation, so plant availability was insignificant compared to the presence of urea in the product. JR Peter’s uses basically the same quality ingredients of the con artist (buy my crap and add a little dye “so you can see where you’ve sprayed”!) “doc” but it costs something like 50x less money per application than that shameful Spoon Juice ripoff… it’s very rare to see all premium chelated micros in respectable quantities like with Jacks and it even has lots of K which is not a cheap nutrient to have in the bag (26%). All(?) Peter’s products have premium micro ingredients but the other water soluble sprayable I have is in roughly 10x lower levels for the micros portion (their 24-8-16 product), so that’s what sets Jacks Nutrients apart and it’s especially ideal during Summer. I actually bought the bag impulse in a Co-op when I first started trying water soluble (clearly superior to granular except in terms of cost) before I knew much and at first I was thinking ‘what was I thinking buying that’ only to realize once I knew more that the product was pretty much unbeatable for quality and balance in that area in terms of value despite it’s fairly high cost. I generally apply .192# of product per K’ (≈.01N|.02P|.05K) whenever I fertilize and bump the N to the desired amount with AMS with each application. I have a bag of top shelf EDTA chelated iron from Greenway or lower quality Ferromec (similar to Midnight) with calcium hydroxide to buffer to a 6.5PH so there’s no need to water in and all that has been rendered worthless… no more foliar iron for me except in the form of Jack’s. Ray Ido is the man… I listen to him a ton on The Grass Factor podcast. That guy is on a different level than anyone, and Demay is pretty solid too.
Hey @PrincessCutLawnCare have you ever used feature for the main ammonium sulfate source since it’s in it with the higher rate of 2oz ? I saw you used it in other videos as a supplement and am wondering if it’d work for a 2 in one product for iron and N from ammonium sulfate without needing to add other fert. Thanks !
sup buddy, while is does contain ammonium sulfate its used in the blend as more of an adjuvant (to reduce the ph of the solution and give a boost to the iron) the AMS content is not enough to actually feed the grass and illicit a large color response on its own.
If I do 2oz of feature per 1k would it then have enough N as a stand alone mild fertilizer comparable to something like Greene county next 7-0-0 Greene Effect?
I do wonder what's the reason behind the ammonium sulphate being superior. Is it simply that more nitrogen is retained? Or does the sulphate aid in the growth as well? Or could it be some kind of nutrient interaction? I've seen a study where ammonium sulphate resulted in higher accumulation of micronutrients (versus urea), so who knows - maybe the ammonium sulphate helped the grass to access locked-up iron or something in the soil. If memory serves, the research was on citrus trees though, so I'm not sure how applicable this would be for grass.
depends how much you apply, for the lower rates, you can leave it sit over night and water in the morning, for rates over .15 lbs per 1k, i would water in right away. Remember AMS has a high sodium content so when in doubt, water it in.
Did not you mitigate the volatilization of urea by applying it foiarly? I thought volatilization of urea occurs when applying granules and not watering it in.
George, can the ammonium sulfate be mixed with ferrous sulfate? The label does not say anything about mixing it with water before applying it with backpack sprayer?!
frankie! yes absolutely, it forms ferrous ammonium sulfate. john ware has an awesome video on it, you should check it out ruclips.net/video/2WOHhKSPL8Y/видео.html
yes it requires much less N because in in raw form, no polymer coatings and no time needed to break down into the soil. Its will be a much faster kick than granular and will wear off quicker as well. typically these apps will last 2-3 weeks
great question, if you are irrigating, you can apply the low rates i have posted above but i would not apply during stretches of extreme heat (90+ and sunny) also be sure to water in immediately after in summer
Hey George, I am looking at buying Greenway Biotech Ammonium Sulfate 21-0-0 Fertilizer Contains 21% Water Soluble Nitrogen & 24% Sulfur. It's a granular. Thoughts on granular vs liquid?
@@PrincessCutLawnCare thank you, mine is close to 6.5 I monitor about every 12 months so I can handle it. Can you share the amount to mix per 1k? Thanks
Interesting experiment. Maybe I should give the same exact experiment a try. Very interesting. I would love to see if we both get the same results with greening and growth. I will try and order the same products and once the video is posted I will link to your video.
I used HiYield 21-0-0 Ammonium Sulphate 4lbs./2gal of water to 2.2k sq' of TTTF and it burned a lot of my lawn? Not sure what issue was maybe it's because the grass is young? If anyone has any input on why this happened I'd appreciate the input.
Hi Derrick, sorry to hear about that. Im curious, where did you get those application rates? I posted below the rate of .7 lbs of product (.15 lbs of N) per 1k sqft
I put ammonium sulfate down just with dry granules in 80 degree Fahrenheit weather with impunity. This is the third video in the last week where I've seen dissolving dry granular into water. Try applying the ammonia sulfate try next time. Water it is immediately after just as you would have urea. Unless you have a crappy source of water that contains aluminum and lead and is acidic, I'm reasonably confident that you will not burn your lawn: portion size also. What I do now is I put about 2/10 of a pound of nitrogen down about every week to every two weeks rather than a pound of nitrogen every eight weeks. I see better results. I also have small square footage however ...
Can someone tell me where to buy ammonium sulfate near Chicago(area) I called several suppliers and either don’t sell for home owners or many of them don’t carrying it at all ...and I’m looking for 20+ lb bags
@@PrincessCutLawnCare hey George 🙂👊 I appreciate your response ! My lawn pH is roughly 8.0 and I’m planning to drastically treat it this year . I’m preparing real “Molotov cocktail” . Sulfur- ammonium sulfate-citric acid 😁💪 Big thanks for your help ❤️
Do you or have you treated your KGB to remove tall fescue, I have some tall fescue in my KGB and would like to kill it off without harming KGB. THANK YOU
@0:42 Last Summer the summer before this 2023 summer I used ammonium sulfate on a law that I'm battling high pH on cuz here in the Chicago, area that's the way it goes with all the limestone quarries around. There is no doubt that ammonium sulfate blew the doors off urea and every other thing I've used to get a healthy dark green grass. I am having difficulty finding ammonium sulfate in brick-and-mortar stores so I guess I got to go to the internet. But now to watch the rest of the video....
You lowered the soil pH is one factor with the Ammonium Sulfate. Another factor with that is the release of sulfur that soil microbes need to do their job. Urea is a natural fertilizer depending on the source. It can lower pH but generally not as much as the other. Aluminum Sulfate also releases Aluminum into the environment which can be a bad thing. Especially around acid loving plants like blueberries. A soil pH is about 6.5 is about ideal for most plants.
Do you have any links to documentation that supports your claim that ammonia sulfate releases aluminum into the environment? I know it doesn't release aluminum into the air since hello aluminium needs to be raised to 3,700 degrees Fahrenheit to be a gas ...
It's just that urea isn't readily available for the plant.. It needs to be converted to ammonium first in several days depending on soil temperature. You're just showing a fertilizer that actually fertilized vs one which only started fertilizing. There is no color difference between all nitrogen forms.
Urea is a slower release (good!) nitrogen source than ammonium sulfate. Plant roots do not absorb nitrogen in the form of urea. Chemical and biological reactions in the soil convert urea to ammonium (NH4+) and nitrate (NO3). Both forms are readily absorbed by roots, but it takes several weeks. Urea is slower, effective, cheaper!
George, this is off topic and I apologize for that but I have a couple of questions regarding Primo Maxx. How often should it be applied to cool season lawns and is there a limit to how much should be applied per year? Thank you.
It's true, not all nitrogen is equal. Let's take a third nitrogen fertilizer, Ammonia Nitrate (which has security limitations in sourcing in the past decade or so). For late Fall (Autumn) granular nitrogen applications, Ammonia Nitrate is by far the best, as its nitrogen is the most readily available in cold soil temps.
🔵APPLICATION RATES:
Urea (0.15lbs of N) = 0.3 lbs of product per 1k sqft
Ammonium Sulfate (0.15lbs of N) = 0.70 lbs of product per 1k sqft
*Should be mixed with 1 gallon of water per 1k sqft
Sweet. I will let you know once I get my video posted. I’m going to assume I will get the same results
Fastest way to convert to pounds on the ground:
1) plug in your desired amount of nitrogen into the calculator (.15 when aiming at .15# / K’)
2) divide that by .21 for AMS since AMS is 21% N (21-0-0)
3) for a 2400 square foot lawn, multiply this number by 2.4… done… 0.714# / 1000 square feet
@@IntegrityDistribution yup I would agree
I want to use the ammonium sulfate to water my indoor plants. How much did you use for the 5 gallons of water?
@@IntegrityDistribution If using AMS what are the light, med and heavy amounts to use per gallon of water? I'm planning on trying AMS this season in a two gallon sprayer.
George. Great video. Thanks for putting this out.
Two questions:
1- Do you water this in post application? Can you do a heavy water in, like 1 inch?
2- How often can you apply this at the rate of .7 lbs/1,000 sq feet? Could I do it weekly to keep a dark green color?
Would've never thought the results would be so different. Going to have to switch to AMS now instead of urea. Great video!
I knew you say that. I was thinking about you when I was watching haha
Try ferrous ammonium sulfate if you want to kick it up even another notch. Cheers Jesse
@@TJP2010555 good info Tyler
I've been using ammonia sulfate in granular form (21-0-0) for over 20 years with exceptional results. However, be cautious during excessive heat. I stumbled upon your video and have done research on DEF as well. I recently came up with a concoction that has literally changed the appearance of my grass within several days....and it looks beautiful. I prefer to use ammonia sulfate during cooler times of the year, but now with your help and numerous other you tube videos & articles I have read... I think I may have found my go to fertilizer. I appreciate your videos. Thank you 👊🏼
No problem! thank you for the thoughtful comment!
What's the concoction?
@@smattt agreed we'd all like to know
what's your secret recipe?
You can’t tell us you found a great mix and not tell us the mix!!! PLEASE
Ammonium Sulfate is definitely my favorite. It's not only a darker green put more of a blue green. 👍🏻
i see that! ive been snoozing the last few years haha
I would be interested in trying this to compare results heck why not. Makes good RUclips content lol
Interesting results, I use both and have never seen a noticeable difference between the two. May have to do a side-by-side in my own yard. Only suggested difference in testing would be to lay out the test plots in more of a grid pattern, even just a 2x2 grid. Takes away the chance that any enviromental factors played a role (i.e. heat from proximity to sidewalk, amount of shade, etc). Good video though!
Thanks jake! you should test them side by side, you will be surprised!
Fyi. I made the jump to ams from urea. Ty for the great video. Ive learned more from you thany any one else lately. No joke
I've been saying this for a long time on my channel George, AS is immediately plant available so it instantly enters the plant and goes to work. Urea on the other hand has to be broken down by soil microbes, takes only a few days but if you lose any to the atmosphere and it takes a few days to start working then the AS will always look better on day 10. AS can also be lost in the soil for other reasons but in the summer it will perform out of the gate very quickly. A good update would be around day 20-30 after the urea has been transformed into plant available nitrogen but before the AS has been all used up. I still stand behind my use of natural N sources however slow they may be. 😁 All in all, fun video and worth watching and experimenting!
I had heard that also but I think you’re wrong here turf mechanic. I’ve tried urea in the heat of Summer on an irrigated and 30% compost soil that tested crazy high for soil health in CO2 burst (aka extremely high microbe activity) and urea was noticeably worse than ammonium sulfate and allowing it to break down didn’t help anything and yes, I watered it in… AMS creates a much darker lawn and it can’t just be that the AMS is faster because I tried urea spoon fed about every 10 days for at least a month and nothing my color slowly bleached… I thought my reduction in color was due to Summer heat, but when I went back to AMS my color came right back and stayed back even at lower rates than urea… watered in every time… watering about .4” every 3 days.
I had heard that urea just took a few extra days to kick in and I figured urea would be a good tool during the Summer for it’s lower salt index but it simply didn’t perform (99% purity low biuret - MFG by Yara… premium urea).
I’ll go further and say even when a fertilizer is balanced for nitrogen sources I notice a huge difference in color and don’t even use products like GrowORR anymore or I’ll be let down. AMS is king for me (at least with PRG). Green doc knows a lot more than either of us (20 times more) and even my lawn is significantly greener than I’ve ever seen yours despite being much shorter and even in the middle of Summer but much of that could just be cultivars. Just trying to say I’d give AMS a more thorough testing because I’m pretty sure you missed something here if color is important to you and I think Rey Ito is very much right here as I’ve given urea every chance but it just doesn’t shine when it comes to color even at higher rates. My PH is at 6.5. My cultivars are Hattrick and Pangea perennial rye reel mowed. I think everyone already knows AMS is more quickly available, but there’s more to it than that. That microbe mention is partially correct, but not in the context of color. Adding a sulfur nutrient mixed with urea might yield a similar green. My micros are good. My soil is awesome including PH… far too much organic matter for most climates, but I can get away with it in my climate. I doubt there are many soils with better microbe activity than mine but still urea was the weak link.
@@IntegrityDistribution
I have added sulfur to the big-box stores urea fertilizers the past 6 years.
In my experience in the Chicago soils 7.2 pH clay heavy, ammonia sulfate was still the best fertilizer I ever used both for color and for strong growth. It may as well been a testosterone boost for the boy grass.
Remember the old saying ... "the grass is always greener on the ammonium sulphate side of the lawn."
😂 I like that
I have used Ammonia Sulphate to prepare the ground for growing season. Another words, six weeks from growing season. I found a good way to remember when to apply the Fertilizer. On NFL Super Bowl Sunday. The Nitrogen is for boosting growth. And the Sulphate is to get rid of any bad bacteria that might hinder growth.
Neat comparison! Since the ammonium nitrate NO3 is in a form more readily available to the grass as compared to urea NH4 which needs added microbial activity I'd be curious to see what happens over time.
I would think over time just gives it more opportunity to evaporate.
Hi! First thank you for the great videos! It was short and informative. I do have a question. After you spray AMS do you water it in? Or if not how long after spraying on lawn can you start irritating again?? Thx again
I use urea as a liquid app. When you do this there isn't much evaporation, but the grass is yellow green. I agree with the results of the experiment.
I’m interested to try and ordered the same products to do the same on my channel. Just curious to see if our results are the same. I would think they should be. And lowering my PH couldn’t hurt lol
@@MyGreenLawn2019 i love your channel. Ive commentrd a few times.
@@davidgonzales-ec8bo you been a long time subscriber and I appreciate that
Great experiment. You could easily see the difference in the video in the test areas. Well done!
awesome, thanks man
I don’t know about colour but since my lawn had a high pH, AS was the game changer for me. My SA just grew better and actually finally started to look like SA lol and able to grow tall enough to cut to the 4” like you’re supposed to.
awesome to hear! looking forward to reducing my ph as well
I sprayed ammonium sulfate, a micronutrient cocktail, and some seakelp with a little surfactant at the recommend rate over a day ago. Got rain last night and I'm hoping to see some good results soon.
Apparently the ammonium sulfate causes increased uptake of Iron and Magnesium which probably accounts for the greener look of the lawn.
I meant to do a similar test this year between Ammonium Nitrate, Ammonium Sulfate, Calcium Nitrate, and Potassium Nitrate. Grass in Texas [East] is struggling, drought condition and very hot temperatures.
Plant Prod sells a fert with all those nitrate sources.
In comes in two bags inside the large bag and you mix to use.
It is water soluble and "instantly" available.
I don't remember the analysis except the first number is 17.
17-5-17 Fusion.
@@wayneessar7489
Thanks for the reply, I'll look into it. I've been looking for a fertilizer with a high K rating for fall fertilizer.
@@ultragreenllc I think this is fertigation or a special use but I saw it at a local nursery and I had never read an ingredient list with so many nitrates before!
This is been about the driest late spring and early summer and the Chicago area 2023 that I can remember in a couple decades.
While I was starving the parkway from nutrients do do not knowing that old bags of fertilizer were impotent as pertains to the nitrogen, even with crummy calcium tap water I throw it on the grass because that's the only way to keep it alive.
I hate to drink Bud light but if I want to get a buzz and that's the only thing in the refrigerator, then down the hatch it goes.
Yep just started using AS, and the deep green is amazing . Love the product so far. Only used Lesco 21-0-0 though
Great to hear! happy its working well for you
Try sta green from lowes
Awesome comparison George, really interesting to see the difference.
Love your videos they are so much fun not just a lot of talk but plenty of demos as well. I tried the Ammonium for the first time and my grass is darker and more uniform. Also the new grass is darker to start this year than it was last year. I wonder though if so much urea is lost, what would happen if you over apply in cooler weather to make up for the loss would that leave more available for the grass for better results? What do you think?
Thank you price! that just made my day my friend!
We really try to focus on making our video an interactive experience so its a good feeling when we receive feedback like yours:)
Also great question in regards to the urea, we found that its best to use the urea in mild temps (60-75 degrees) as ammonium sulfate will be much more effective in harsher temps on both sides of the spectrum - hot and cold.
I wouldn't try to make up for lost nitrogen, just apply as usual but tailor the type of N you use for the current conditions.
Appreciate you watching!
Can you take it step further and see if you can make it even darker. Add a granular iron and liquid iron test rectangles plots perpendicular to those plots. End with 12 boxes.
Control- liquid iron- gradual iron
Urea--Urea+liquid-Urea+gran
Amm-Amm+liquid-Amm+gran
great suggestion, i will add it to the notes, gonna need more space! haha
That’s good. I haven’t bought Diesel exhaust fluid yet.
So I was about to run to Walmart and get DEF Fluid after watching another one of your videos Are you saying skip that crap and go straight to AS? I appreciate the videos always.
do you know the ph of your soil? if not, i would rec using DEF over AS.
BUT if your soil PH is high, i would 1000% rec using AS
@@PrincessCutLawnCare My cool season (I believe fescue sod) is right around 6.8-7 on the PH scale. I had to add lime last year to raise it. Thanks for the reply!
If spraying with backback sprayer does it have to be watered in or just left on grass as is?
I am going to follow your recommended rate of .70 lbs per 1k sqft. Here is what was confusing to me. On the bag of Hi-Yield Ammonium Sulfate, it recommends the below:
16 lb. bag - On Lawns - apply 1/2 lb. per 100 sq. ft. or 5 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft.
• 16 lb. bag will cover 4,000 sq. ft on lawn use.
This rate is significantly different than your recommended rate. Am I missing something? Why would the bag rate recommend 5 lbs per 1k? Anyone feel free to answer!
Interesting! Still learning something new.
same!
Awesome video and results!! This will be my secret weapon to defeat my neighbor once and for all lol
Is there a recommendation that you have about what time of day would be most beneficial, regardless of fertilizer used, so that you would limit the amount of evaporation after application?
Awesome video, and love that you did this in your front lawn.
Lastly, the music! Not a single bad song. Can I get a track list, please?
appreciate it sir! i always make my apps in the early evening especially in summer to prevent fert burn, i will have to get the track names off my computer, ill get back to you.
appreciate you noticing, my favorite part of editing is mixing music:)
@@PrincessCutLawnCare Sounds good, I appreciate you.
I also have a couple followup questions for you. Do you give your grass a quick watering to help get the fertilizer down to the ground and roots to help get it off of the blades? Or is it no issue since there isn't any direct sunlight for a while?
I think… The mistake made is that the greening comes from the lowered PH of the soil. Not the source in and of itself. Also repeat apps of the AS will lead to diminished returns and what I learned the hard way is stopped growth and needing massive watering. I went back to U this year and it’s ultra thick and green. I may do AS once just for PH control. (Lower ph allow for better iron absorption)
I’ve seen similar results. My ph is already on the low side and irrigation with city water seems to only make that worse. I’m getting better results with Urea. I might do a side by side test now too!
Hi George, great video. How many ounces of Ammonium Sulfate would you recommend per gallon of water for 1,000 sq ft? Thanks so much!
Thanks boss!
0.7 pounds per 1k sqft to start off
Consider doing a plot with an iron treatment, and nothing else. Great video.
Will do! And thanks 🙏
Fun to experiment. About to fry here again in NJ so I'm just trying to keep this KBG active 😀
Haha same fude
Hey George, Great video , great topic, great results, You the man 👍💚
appreciate it keith!
So if you add ammonium sulfate to your entire front lawn, you will definitely have a case of lawn envy from your neighbors. BTW 7.7 on the PH scale. I swear our SE Virginia lawn is in the 4s- fighting acidity.
Great video George!
curious what's your recommendation for liquid iron?
Thanks bob! i really like the simple lawn solutions liquid iron, its pretty pricey tho
@@PrincessCutLawnCare Thanks george!
George - Fellow Chicago suburbanite here - when is the best time to start a fall overseedproject? Can I start this in mid-august - it supposed to be cooler for the next 7 days. Thanks. Enjoy your content.
heyyy what up neighbor! the temps have been nice lately!
However i would air on the side of caution starting too early because we dont want our seeds to sprout and then we get 2 weeks straight of 90 degrees weather (you know how chicago is lol)
i would hold off to see what the temps are looking like after this cool spell and if it looks like its going to continue than go for it
hope that helps!
@@PrincessCutLawnCare Thanks - this is wise advice. I guess I am looking for a reason to bust out my SunJoe since its been last used in early May.
I use Milorganite several times a year on my lawn and it really helps with having a dark green lawn. I may have to experiment with the ammonium sulfate to see if it works better.
Gonna grow faster with Ammonium Sulfate.
The sulphur in the 21-0-0 is required and aids in chlorophyll production(the green stuff in plants) and the biggest contributor to the green-up
thanks for sharing!
Glad to help! Wife has BS in Horticulture so we get to have all of these fun discussions lol.
She said better to stick with the urea solution and mix iron, that way not messing with soil pH. *shrug*
these videos are awesome Boss! 👍🏻I'm going to give the AMS a try.
thanks dude! you will love it
AMS+PGR+Feature =Domination
Great video George, very interesting results.
Thanks 👍
I always appreciate seeing you have a video for whatever i look up, great content and production skills! This video generated some questions and im in need of some help. I got my soil test results, and learned my pH level is way too high. This is leading me to believe the stresses I have seen could be related to that. Will Ammonium Sulfate rapidly reduce the pH level of my soil for a healthier lawn this season? If so, would it be safe to say that fix is temporary? Are you able to advise if I am safe putting down something like Mag-I-Cal by Jonathan Green, knowing it can take a season if not longer to reduce that pH by a point or so? I need and would love your input.
No problem Caio!
May I ask exactly what your current PH is?
@@PrincessCutLawnCare absolutely, 7.7
AMS will slowly, over the course of a year in sandy soil lower the PH by .5 or so. In loam or clay soil it will take about twice as long. Not sure on the other product you mentioned. Hope this helps a bit. I've seen elemental sulphur be applied at the same time as the AMS and it works a lot quicker than AMS alone. Elemental sulphur is not cheap however.
Awesome video George! I've never used ammonium sulfate before but I might need to try some seeing the results you got!
you will love it bro, especially with our soil type
I use it for onions which love the nitrogen and the sulfur its really ideal for onion growth.
My neighbors use urea only on their lawns, and I kind of agree that their lawn is green, but the shade of green is a little off and the blades look almost waxy.
what do you like to use?
@@PrincessCutLawnCare I have to be super careful to not use any products with P in them because my soil test came back super high in P. So I spoon feed straight Ammonium Sulfate in the spring and fall, but move to more K, less N in the summer. And I use lots of wetting agents, baby soap, and humic products. Maybe I am just throwing spaghetti at the wall, but stuff is sticking. Because my lawns look great. People ALWAYS ask me what I do, looking for a quick, easy, and cheap solution. The problem is that there are no quick, easy and cheap solutions. The harder you work, the better your lawn looks.
Its a whole thing.....
should do a urea vs urea + iron experiment
When using AMS at .15 lbs. Will it damage the grass if it doesn't rain and you don't water it in?
Not unless you apply it midday in summer time temps
Thank you for sharing your knowledge George 👍
Greetings from Crystal Lake, ILL 60014
@@ev767a no problem neighbor! we are about an hour south of you in the naperville area
How did the AMS plot compare to the DEF plot you tested in a previous video?
i applied the same amounts of urea and def in each video, so the urea plot in this video would be an accurate representation of how the def would look against the AMS
Thanks. You now owe me $20 for the Blue Def I put down yesterday. KIDDING!
Haha ammonium sulfate is the natural progression from urea
How long before you noticed any visible results? Was it at 10 days when you did the video?
About 2 days with the AMS and 5 days with the urea
Sick edit and content bro! Keep hustling
Thanks bro!
AMS yields significantly higher greening nutrient uptake into the tissue. There is essentially no need to apply iron if using AMS. Also, AMS is significantly better absorbed in cold temperatures.
Jack’s nutrients by J.R. Peter’s is a killer micronutrient to combine with AMS especially in summer… just iron can become counterproductive if not combined with Zinc and Manganese…Jacks is premium EDTA chelated micros and also has lots of potassium to manage water movement and disease resistance in the plant.
The bigger difference is doing this same experiment at 40° average temps… urea will give nearly zero color response, and AMS will be dark green. The 28% sulfer is the main reason for deeper greening (iron uptake among other nutrients), but ammoniacal nitrogen like AMS is also more readily available. The acidifying effects of urea are roughly 60% that of AMS… rule of thumb… 1# of urea nitrogen requires about 3# of lime to offset (in acidic soils) and 1# of AMS requires 5# of lime to offset the acidifying nature of AMS.
All Nitrogen is acidifying to varying degrees. West of Mississippi River generally acidic soil, east of Mississippi River generally basic. In my opinion AMS is the way to go for spoon fed high input lawns. ProPEAT is AMS based… but… for even color, spraying is best, and DO NOT BUY AMS at Lowes or HD… it has a wax used to prill it that will render the product completely useless in a sprayer. Amazon or Greenway are good options. The bag should say “Water Soluble”.
how many lbs of N to 1 gal of carrier water can i spray per 1k with AMS without having to water it in? I like Urea because i can do weekly apps @ 0.20lbs in 1 gal and not have to water it in. I don't have an irrigation system so this has been incredibly valuable. I want to switch to AMS in the later fall, but i'm kind of new to the math and urea has been safe/easy for me so far.
Good to know awesome information man thanks. I’m going to try George’s experiment on my channel I’m expecting the same results
Great write up Trevor, appreciate you sharing!
Will be checking out the jacks nutrients pronto
@@PrincessCutLawnCare Yeah, according to The Green Doc of Hawaii (for any newer reader, this is not the super markup lord of SuperJuice ‘How to with Doc’ … different doc) he always recommends iron in conjunction with other specific micros or the excess iron will actually create competition with Mn and Z and often create less chlorophyll production, and I don’t know anyone that knows more than Ray on TGF (or even close really).
When applying a straight iron (even a PH buffered EDTA folliar with surfactant to give iron it’s best chance at results) zero color difference will be observed in my lawn… I believe what is half fooling people with iron products is liquid iron products are virtually always juiced with a notable amount of urea (Ferromec for example is 15% urea, and similar story with Midnight & Feature), so it’s likely the urea that is doing the heavy lifting with any observed greening. The reason I say that is when applying Ferromec which is nearly the lowest quality iron source that is basically not plant available to any major extent I got tons of color response when I started, but I observed zero color when applying extremely high quality iron in isolation, so plant availability was insignificant compared to the presence of urea in the product.
JR Peter’s uses basically the same quality ingredients of the con artist (buy my crap and add a little dye “so you can see where you’ve sprayed”!) “doc” but it costs something like 50x less money per application than that shameful Spoon Juice ripoff… it’s very rare to see all premium chelated micros in respectable quantities like with Jacks and it even has lots of K which is not a cheap nutrient to have in the bag (26%). All(?) Peter’s products have premium micro ingredients but the other water soluble sprayable I have is in roughly 10x lower levels for the micros portion (their 24-8-16 product), so that’s what sets Jacks Nutrients apart and it’s especially ideal during Summer.
I actually bought the bag impulse in a Co-op when I first started trying water soluble (clearly superior to granular except in terms of cost) before I knew much and at first I was thinking ‘what was I thinking buying that’ only to realize once I knew more that the product was pretty much unbeatable for quality and balance in that area in terms of value despite it’s fairly high cost. I generally apply .192# of product per K’ (≈.01N|.02P|.05K) whenever I fertilize and bump the N to the desired amount with AMS with each application. I have a bag of top shelf EDTA chelated iron from Greenway or lower quality Ferromec (similar to Midnight) with calcium hydroxide to buffer to a 6.5PH so there’s no need to water in and all that has been rendered worthless… no more foliar iron for me except in the form of Jack’s.
Ray Ido is the man… I listen to him a ton on The Grass Factor podcast. That guy is on a different level than anyone, and Demay is pretty solid too.
@@IntegrityDistribution Rey ito! He is the man!
Hey @PrincessCutLawnCare
have you ever used feature for the main ammonium sulfate source since it’s in it with the higher rate of 2oz ? I saw you used it in other videos as a supplement and am wondering if it’d work for a 2 in one product for iron and N from ammonium sulfate without needing to add other fert. Thanks !
sup buddy, while is does contain ammonium sulfate its used in the blend as more of an adjuvant (to reduce the ph of the solution and give a boost to the iron) the AMS content is not enough to actually feed the grass and illicit a large color response on its own.
If I do 2oz of feature per 1k would it then have enough N as a stand alone mild fertilizer comparable to something like Greene county next 7-0-0 Greene Effect?
What is that lawn chalk are you using to mark the areas?
its called lawn marking paint, you can get it at home depot
I do wonder what's the reason behind the ammonium sulphate being superior. Is it simply that more nitrogen is retained? Or does the sulphate aid in the growth as well? Or could it be some kind of nutrient interaction?
I've seen a study where ammonium sulphate resulted in higher accumulation of micronutrients (versus urea), so who knows - maybe the ammonium sulphate helped the grass to access locked-up iron or something in the soil. If memory serves, the research was on citrus trees though, so I'm not sure how applicable this would be for grass.
Should ammonium sulfate be used as a foliar application or soil application?
depends how much you apply, for the lower rates, you can leave it sit over night and water in the morning, for rates over .15 lbs per 1k, i would water in right away.
Remember AMS has a high sodium content so when in doubt, water it in.
Thank you
Can you update us with how much fertilizer you used per gallon? I’d love to try this with my sprayer…?
Did not you mitigate the volatilization of urea by applying it foiarly?
I thought volatilization of urea occurs when applying granules and not watering it in.
So when using AS to spoon feed at the rate mentioned in your video of 0.70# per 1k, ,do you have to water it in? Or is it a foliar application?
George, can the ammonium sulfate be mixed with ferrous sulfate? The label does not say anything about mixing it with water before applying it with backpack sprayer?!
frankie! yes absolutely, it forms ferrous ammonium sulfate. john ware has an awesome video on it, you should check it out ruclips.net/video/2WOHhKSPL8Y/видео.html
@@PrincessCutLawnCare wow, that’s amazing and so much better that most fertilizer
Great Episode 💯⭐️
Do you need less total N with liquid fertilizers? You put down .15 lbs for each of them. How often would you need to do that for ongoing feeding?
yes it requires much less N because in in raw form, no polymer coatings and no time needed to break down into the soil. Its will be a much faster kick than granular and will wear off quicker as well. typically these apps will last 2-3 weeks
@@PrincessCutLawnCare exactly
Awesome test! Love what you've been putting out lately
@@stealthcomp14 thanks brotha
Can you apply in hot weather or only in the spring and fall
great question, if you are irrigating, you can apply the low rates i have posted above but i would not apply during stretches of extreme heat (90+ and sunny) also be sure to water in immediately after in summer
Hmmm, very interesting George.
Hey George, I am looking at buying Greenway Biotech Ammonium Sulfate 21-0-0 Fertilizer Contains 21% Water Soluble Nitrogen & 24% Sulfur. It's a granular. Thoughts on granular vs liquid?
Can you mix them both together
Great video, I’m your neighbor in the western suburbs. Do you know where I can buy Ammonium sulfate fertilizer locally?
Another awesome video George!
Thanks again!
Love your channel great work 🙌
Thanks so much!
Do you have a resource for calculating the mixing ratios for AS?
yes there are plenty of posts on thelawnforum.com
How did you mix the ammonium sulfate how much per 1000 ft.²
.70 lbs per 1k sqft
@@PrincessCutLawnCare If I don’t have a scale can you do it by volume measure
I want to see more organic solutions
duly noted
Sulphur helps in the production of chlorophil.
how often can i spray this?
Really appreciate this video!!
i appreciate you!
Do you like the AS better than Blue def?
If you soil allows for it (ie it’s not acidic) than you will get a deeper green color response from it
@@PrincessCutLawnCare thank you, mine is close to 6.5 I monitor about every 12 months so I can handle it. Can you share the amount to mix per 1k? Thanks
i think it looks greener because its longer. I think you should allow the urea to grow to the same length and see the result
Interesting experiment. Maybe I should give the same exact experiment a try. Very interesting. I would love to see if we both get the same results with greening and growth. I will try and order the same products and once the video is posted I will link to your video.
sweet, look forward to your results!
@@PrincessCutLawnCare ordered lol
? Can I use pre- emergent in fakk with nitrigen blitz?
Yes
@@PrincessCutLawnCare thanks love the channel
I know this is an older video, but did you know Lowes has a 40lb bag of ammonium sulfate for around $26. Sta green brand 20.5-0-0!
I wish there was a Lowe's near my house! Other big-box stores and medium box stores don't have any on the shelves.
I see what you did here. Nice shout out to Rey.
shout out greendoc!
Always learning.
Sup man. Great video.
suh dude! thanks
I used HiYield 21-0-0 Ammonium Sulphate 4lbs./2gal of water to 2.2k sq' of TTTF and it burned a lot of my lawn? Not sure what issue was maybe it's because the grass is young? If anyone has any input on why this happened I'd appreciate the input.
Hi Derrick, sorry to hear about that.
Im curious, where did you get those application rates? I posted below the rate of .7 lbs of product (.15 lbs of N) per 1k sqft
@@PrincessCutLawnCare OK so apparently I used too much and that's probably what caused the burn. Thanks for the input
I put ammonium sulfate down just with dry granules in 80 degree Fahrenheit weather with impunity.
This is the third video in the last week where I've seen dissolving dry granular into water.
Try applying the ammonia sulfate try next time. Water it is immediately after just as you would have urea. Unless you have a crappy source of water that contains aluminum and lead and is acidic, I'm reasonably confident that you will not burn your lawn: portion size also. What I do now is I put about 2/10 of a pound of nitrogen down about every week to every two weeks rather than a pound of nitrogen every eight weeks. I see better results. I also have small square footage however ...
Can someone tell me where to buy ammonium sulfate near Chicago(area) I called several suppliers and either don’t sell for home owners or many of them don’t carrying it at all ...and I’m looking for 20+ lb bags
Sup neighbor! Site one in Naperville
edit: its only in stock in downers grove right now
@@PrincessCutLawnCare hey George 🙂👊 I appreciate your response ! My lawn pH is roughly 8.0 and I’m planning to drastically treat it this year . I’m preparing real “Molotov cocktail” . Sulfur- ammonium sulfate-citric acid 😁💪 Big thanks for your help ❤️
Do you or have you treated your KGB to remove tall fescue, I have some tall fescue in my KGB and would like to kill it off without harming KGB. THANK YOU
Yes i killed it all using glyphosate and reseeded kbg and rye. Thats the only option BUT its not as hard as you think esp if you have irrigation
Will kgb eventually overtake fescue?
you should add a third test; the to this, 'Blue Def'
The urea plot was an accurate representation of what the def would look like
@@PrincessCutLawnCare got it. Thanks for the quick response. I am in Whiting, Indiana. You have helped me emencely.
Rey = Lawn God 🙏🙏🙏
There's a grass podcast?
Oh THAT type of grass!
cmon lance get you head out the gutter 😂😂😂
@@PrincessCutLawnCare You mean the grass. lol.
@0:42
Last Summer the summer before this 2023 summer I used ammonium sulfate on a law that I'm battling high pH on cuz here in the Chicago, area that's the way it goes with all the limestone quarries around.
There is no doubt that ammonium sulfate blew the doors off urea and every other thing I've used to get a healthy dark green grass.
I am having difficulty finding ammonium sulfate in brick-and-mortar stores so I guess I got to go to the internet.
But now to watch the rest of the video....
Rey is the 🐐!!
You lowered the soil pH is one factor with the Ammonium Sulfate.
Another factor with that is the release of sulfur that soil microbes need to do their job.
Urea is a natural fertilizer depending on the source.
It can lower pH but generally not as much as the other.
Aluminum Sulfate also releases Aluminum into the environment which can be a bad thing.
Especially around acid loving plants like blueberries.
A soil pH is about 6.5 is about ideal for most plants.
Do you have any links to documentation that supports your claim that ammonia sulfate releases aluminum into the environment?
I know it doesn't release aluminum into the air since hello aluminium needs to be raised to 3,700 degrees Fahrenheit to be a gas ...
Great video!
Thanks!
Good video. Thanks for the info.
Appreciate that!
I’ve never seen a scale like that weigh anything that wasn’t illegal.
chop a 4 in a 20 ounce and call it 24
nah officer that cocaine is for the grass!
Great video
Thanks!
It's just that urea isn't readily available for the plant.. It needs to be converted to ammonium first in several days depending on soil temperature. You're just showing a fertilizer that actually fertilized vs one which only started fertilizing. There is no color difference between all nitrogen forms.
Urea is a slower release (good!) nitrogen source than ammonium sulfate. Plant roots do not absorb nitrogen in the form of urea. Chemical and biological reactions in the soil convert urea to ammonium (NH4+) and nitrate (NO3). Both forms are readily absorbed by roots, but it takes several weeks. Urea is slower, effective, cheaper!
George, this is off topic and I apologize for that but I have a couple of questions regarding Primo Maxx. How often should it be applied to cool season lawns and is there a limit to how much should be applied per year? Thank you.
It's true, not all nitrogen is equal. Let's take a third nitrogen fertilizer, Ammonia Nitrate (which has security limitations in sourcing in the past decade or so). For late Fall (Autumn) granular nitrogen applications, Ammonia Nitrate is by far the best, as its nitrogen is the most readily available in cold soil temps.
I like ammonium sulfate