I followed your advice last year and did the Fall Nitrogen Blitz using Scott’s Turf Builder Winterguard Fall lawn food. And OMG...my lawn filled in and was still beautiful even in December! I had to cut my lawn before setting up my Christmas lawn decor. By April, my lawn was already greener than all of my neighbors! Thank you for sharing your lawn care tips!
It worked!! It completely changed my lawn. 5 lb bag of urea was $35, put it down over about 5 weeks. I also added it and then seeded using shade grass under the trampoline and it’s never been thicker.
I followed your advice and this Spring my lawn woke up way before my neighbors and looked amazing! Yes, I was mowing every 3 days but totally worth it 😂. My neighbor said his lawn wouldn’t look that good till mid June! Thanks
I really want to thank you for this amazing advice. I followed this strategy from September 2023 through the end of October 2023 and the results were absolutely amazing. I was going to try reseeding again this year, as I have for the past 2 years but decided to try this instead. So Glad I Did!!! Best Results Ever! Many Thanks Again
I did this nitrogen blitz last fall and my lawn greened up faster than everyone on my block this spring. I will be doing this yearly as part of my lawn care routine now.
You have to like your grass to be ok with this concept. I feel most people overseed every year cause they have numerous varieties of grass and try to overseed with better cultivars to eventually establish a better lawn overall. I like the idea of this for someone who has a great lawn already and is happy with the current grass types in there lawn.
Except this will never work. There's a reason that other grass is growing there already. Either you don't take care of your yard or the variety is just so strong is takes over on its own. Having a nice yard doesn't come from doing one step here or there, you have to do everything, all the time
@adog3336 I do know that we also overseed to replace lost grass and you also validate my point, that most people don’t do a “fall nitrogen blitz” because we choose to overseed instead because we have reasons why we need to incorporate newer better varieties of grass or to replace lost grass aswell.
You will never overseed better cultivars in your lawn. The existing grass will crowd it out and it will die. The only way to change out your cultivars is to nuke your lawn and start over.
New to the channel… my wife and I just bought our first house and I’m most excited to get back to mowing and keeping up the lawn.. great channel and great grass!
This is the best Chanel and I'm new to fertilizing my own grass . I currently have a company that doing it for me this season but it is never made me happy been with them for many years. . Thanks for making this video. you make everything easy for me to understand . I ordered 10 gallon fertilizer sprayer and will attach it to my zero turn mower. I'm excited I can't wait to start and see the result.also already bought a 50lbs of urea 46 0 0....
I did the blitz with urea thanks to your advise last fall. I have KBG, mono-stand of midnight. It worked great. Applied at your suggested rate weekly from September thru October. Will be doing it again this fall. Thanks for this tip 👍
I live on Long Island, NY. Just did the NST on my lawn instead of overseeding. I put down Scotts winter fertilizer (32% nitrogen) at rate of 1/2 pound per 1000 square feet every two weeks for 5 weeks. Last application was December 10. It is now the beginning of January and my lawn has never looked better. It is still lush and green. Neighbors lawns have already lost their color. Hopefully it continue through the spring and summer 2023. I last cut my lawn at 3 inches late November. After late November while still dark green there was no additional growth. Much, much faster, easier and cheaper than reseeding and with instant results. (I have a John Deere lawn tractor and cutting my grass is my "therapy".)
I did it this fall(2023). I only did 3 applications and already my lawn has never been greener or thicker (Nov 16th)and I’ve lived here 30 years. Can’t wait to see what it looks like in the spring. I used a combination of ammonium sulfate and Scott’s turf builder. I could only find one 50lb ammonium sulfate in the south hills of Pittsburgh
I can verify, this works great. It’s spring of 2024. My backyard that was a total mess is so much thicker and looks great. My front yard that was pretty good is now so thick my electric mower has trouble cutting if I wait too long to cut.
Why not both? Cool season lawns, you can over seed Sept1 and apply some starter feet a few days later. After 2 weeks or so, if you did things right, you should be able to start mowing. At that point you could start the blitz, even go .25lb per 1k each week. This is what I did last year and it worked out great.
I use 46-0-0 (my crack fertilizer) throughout the fall. I did the last application around November 15, 2021 and did not fertilize at all in 2022 and the lawn stayed green (a test to see how long it would last). During the winter months my lawn is still green. It's time to start again. Use slow release during hotter months (Sunniland 24-0-11).
Having a green lawn during winter is not magic, just make sure there is lots of perennial ryegrass in your seed mix. It's a genetic thing, has nothing to do with fertilizer.
In England, we just let the grass do what it does best... Rest when it's hot/dry. Grow when conditions are right. After a record heatwave, lawn & pasture brown, I just waited for September rain. It's looking better than ever. That's the beauty of grass. After a stressful summer, it comes back better and stronger than ever. If you water and feed the grass, all you do is grow weeds.
Even though I live in the south I did a total lawn renovation and planted SPF30 hybrid bluegrass. This stuff is absolutely beautiful and it survives the heat given that it gets adequate water during the summer. Anyway, 99.9% of the lawns around here are bermuda, so my bluegrass lawns sticks out BIG TIME, haha. Literally every time I'm working in the lawn and someone walks by they stop to tell me how beautiful my lawn is. I've been doing this fall nitrogen blitz for a couple years now and the results are truly remarkable. I highly recommend doing it!
I've been researching hybrid bluegrass as well (transition zone 6a). Do you mind saying what brand of SPF30 you went with? Where did you get it? Thanks!!
@@GTeton73 Outsidepride is where I got mine, and as far as I know that is the only place to get SPF30 (I could be wrong). It is definitely worth the effort to renovate for this grass type. Just be sure to beat down whatever was there prior (bermuda) to the dirt, and have a bermuda suppression plan (pylex or what I use triclopyr) bc bermuda is impossible to kill and will attempt a comeback next summer.
Great video. I need to point out one missing item. Water. In addition to a big bump up in mowing, I think you need to up your watering. This could be a big deal now with the expanding drought and water restrictions. I think that throwing down a bunch of N and starving the grass for water will hurt rather than aid the grass. Our Bay area rainy season doesn't start until November, which is too late. Thoughts? This problem also applies to over-seeding.
Fixing a lawn isn't an overnight process in my opinion. Water is critical, especially if you're going to be putting down a lot of nitrogen like this guy suggests. My advice would be to keep an eye on the weather and try to time your applications around rainy days. If that means that you only put down 1 or 2 lbs of N in the next two months then so be it. There's always next season - and patience is the name of the game in lawn care.
november is not to late. california only has 1 season permanent summer. it's the equivalent of saying tropical forrests experience snow for 3-5 months of every year. nitrogen load even during drought keeps the grass growing and green despite lack of moisture. it's applying the right amount so it doesn't burn that is the problem. water determines how much will spread out, sink in how deep and how fast, that's all. not saying water isn't huge, just that plants pull water out of the air when needed. probably won't work in places like arizona and nevada but coastal states, tropicals and land of lake country or rivers galore, it's a non issue.
If you all are worried about drought then can you kill the lawn and plant clovers? Because then when you don’t expect to deal with drought you can kill the clovers and plant grass. I’ve just been fertilizing and watering the front and side lawns which probably total the back yard sq ft. (I don’t live in California) the back yard I grow dallis grass and whatever was there originally so weeds essentially I kill dandelions with a propane torch. But I don’t want to spray spectricide or whatever to kill the weeds so the pet isn’t exhibit “a” for ill effects. I personally didn’t want to p*ss the neighbors off with clovers. Is that your thought process as well?
This obviously works for people above the transition zone. Perennially rye @ 10lbs per 1000sq ft in my bermuda lawn october-April….then spraying to rid it. Sucks for us southerners! Love the channel
Thank you for this information. I’m a relatively new lawn care enthusiast, and I have been struggling with low N constantly. Did a renovation late 2020, and it’s doing ok. But this is really helping. Put down my second application today! IT’s responded well!
This only works for grass that spreads, like KBG for cool season lawns. It's the only grass in that type that spreads. This will not work for PRG or TTT, as they do not have rhizomes.
Great info Jesse. Typically I just throw down 2 feedings of a typical big box offering with a composition of similar parts nitrogen and potassium, say 12-0-18. Lawn is then able to stay green into late fall, manufacture adequate food reserves for winter while enhancing/protecting grass structure for the impending spring. I agree that snow mold appears to be a hit or miss phenomenon likely dependent on consistency of winter temps ie. consistently cold vs. freeze/thaw cycles. Snow mold, overall, is not really a problem - other than visual - and disappears with spring’s first lawn maintenance
last number is blossom bloom, this will only make your lawn grass blossom more flowers which last longer and extend the period of flowering which is extremely hard on the roots to provide vigor for so long instead of store it. you want a 20-30 first number and a low 3-8 mid number potassium is only a ph balancer way more effective than calcium and sulpher. nitrogen is for mostly leaf growth and some root growth sulpher and iron are for deep dark color which helps in the high heat drier part of summer to keep the grass from sun burning.
Jesse, thanks for this! It’s June 1st 2023, and I’m using this to kick my lawn, trying to get it to bounce back from Memorial Day. My lawn did not enjoy 48 hours of 20 people and games. Thanks for this tip
@@LAWNLIFE You're very welcome and you deserve the praise. Because of your post, I have the nicest lawn in my 26 home subdivision. Thanks again from Southeast Michigan!
My boy Jesse is on point like always. Already did one app about 2 weeks ago at .75 lbs per 1000 to help my lawn recover a bit faster from the heat stress. Perfectly timed it with rain forecasted. Already rebounded lovely. Next app this Friday at the .5 lbs per 1000 like you suggested and then I’ll probably skip an app because I mulch my clippings and the existing nitrogen in the lawn will just break that down as another app basically. Plus it’ll be easier to keep up with the mowing haha. Love that you featured my last comment from last year’s video too. Thanks again brother!
There is a drawback to this. Late doses of N before winter make the Grass cell boundaries softer (as opposed to Potassium) which increases the risk of snow mould during winter
Could you elaborate on this? I have read something similar and a high dose of potassium before winter dormancy and a fungicide help. Also doesn’t length of snow cover contribute to the outcome?
@@-What-are-your-thoughts sure lengh of snow/high moisture are a Faktor, but depending on the plant available potassium levels a potassium rich fertilization with rather low N levels (e.g. 9-5-20) once soll temperatures are decreasing below 12°C will make a Grass with harder cell boudaries that will be very robust against freezing temps and snow mould. High N makes it green, but soft
I've never had a serious snow mold issue while doing this. Snow mold seems to be hit and miss depending on the winter around me. Some years people getting nailed in my neighborhood, some years there's nothing. I haven't noticed a correlation
@@LAWNLIFE You DO NOT want to do this a few days before frost. It WILL cause snow mold. And another thing, is you can only do this with KBG because it will spread. TTT of PRG won't. Those grasses won't spread. You need to overseeed them. Sorry, but this video is horrible info.
Jessy, I have a good suggestion. Many people struggle in math. Because of this, could you make a video saying they should use .42 lbs of n of ams per thousand feet. That would be 2 lbs per 1000. That would be so much easier for the math challenged. You could also do 1 lb/1000 ou urea for .46. .46 or .42 is close enough to .5 lb. I think it's a goog idea.
So I guess the farmer in me doesn't get the multiple 20#/ac applications. AMS the better choice for your goals btw, the N in AMS is in the nitrate form and is safe from volatilization and is immediately plant available. Urea needs heat to be plant available and requires quite a bit more rain to get into the plant. If I were you I'd do a 50#/ac app of a urea AMS blend and add some potash as K availability in drought and heat goes way down. Early spring another shot of AMS and mangansese sulphate will keep you green through drought and heat. Manganese and sulfur are way underrated in grasses in drought.
Great video. One add….I prefer urea for the reasons you mention but it can break down quickly and the usability diminishes if it’s not watered in quickly. It breaks down fast. For that reason and if not dissolved in water and applied with a tank sprayer AS maybe easier to use if available. Applying straight urea will burn the lawn easily unless you have a really good spreader. I always recommend people dissolved it and spray it then water in.
My lawns is less than a year old and i still have some bare spots, but I plan on following the advice in this video for next season. Great video, Jesse!
If you have bare spots then you need more seed to fill in those spots. KBG will spread to bare spots if you have KBG. If not, then seed. All this video is showing is when to add fertilizer. Adding fertilizer should not be compared to over-seeding. Completely different things and different situations. More of a click bait video to be honest. Everyone knows to fertilize their yard in the fall. It helps through the winter months and helps for a quick green up.
It may be cheaper but my God does the effort level go up 100% I’d much rather overseed once fertilize once turn on sprinklers and be done with it versus now needing to fertilize every 7 to 14 days for the rest of the season.
Idk man... Dethatching, thatch cleanup, seeding, fertilizing, putting down peat moss, staying on top of watering... I'd rather go out there a fertilize once a week and mow. Different strokes for different folks I guess.
@@antbatt1313 good work man! Dethatching is so satisfying. Clean up sucks ass lol. It will be worth it though. Start hitting in with nitrogen and it's going to look amazing in a month or two
i am topdressing with orgro, and then overseeding with RTF (Rhizomatous Tall Fescue), which is a SPREADING fescue that will self repair bare spots on the lawn! currently, the fescue on the lawn is the typical clumping type. i am hoping the RTF overseeding will be the last i ever have to do.
I've found the best way to spoon feed Urea is with a hose end sprayer. I have the Ortho hose end sprayer. At first I use a larger container (a tea pitcher) that I fill with warm to hot water. Then I measure out my urea and dump it in. The Ortho hose end sprayer doesn't hold enough so this is why I do it this way. I set my Ortho to setting "3" then try to cover 1,000 square feet. Then I refill a time or two and then I'm all done. The urea dissolves very quickly in the warm-hot water so all of this doesn't take hardly any time at all, maybe 15 minutes. This is by far my easiest, least amount of work required method of putting any sort of contents on my lawn.
@@user-jl1sz7su4p I've never stained anything with nitrogen, it's iron you have to watch out for. It's as simple as spraying a garden hose, you just put it where you want it
Even easier - next time you fill up with gas pick up a gallon of DEF (diesel exhaust fluid). 35.5% urea, 64.5% demineralized water. Works out to 15-0-0 is cheap and already premixed for you. Fill up the ortho and use setting 1.5oz/gallon and spray your lawn evenly. That'll give you about 0.3 lbs/1000 sqft of nitrogen per application.
Fantastic video! Really well done! I'm not sure this works for tall fescue. For spreading grasses like KBG, this will work wonderfully! For fescue, especially those that had a rough summer, this plan will help with growth and tillering, but it will have a splotchy appearance. After a few years of thickening up the turf through overseeding, this technique could end up working well.
This is true, but 90% of the people watching this will have KBG in their cool season grass. Not many ppl have a 100% fescue/rye lawn. Thanks for watching Chuck!
Been looking at Diesel Esaust Fluid at 35.5% urea in a hose end sprayer. Very cheap and there is a video on it. Haven't tried it yet but seriously considering it.
If you're one of the lucky few to have a Rural King nearby, they sell 51lbs of Ammonium Sulfate for $17.99 (was $13.99 last year). You can spray Ammonium Sulfate safely without irrigation if you double the carrier/water. The max rate I spray AMS without irrigation is 0.21lbs nitrogen (1lb AMS) per 1000 sq/ft using a minimum of 2 gallons of water.
I have 4 acres of lawn, and I did the math. I nned 11 bags of fertilizer foreach weekly spplicatiom. Thst'd $330 weekly for say 5 weeks. Yeah, right. Why not just overseed the entire lawn once to get more grass seed rather than blitz out my entire checkbook?
Thank you so much for this video. Great advice! If the lawn has been over-seeded already, and new growth is appearing, would it be too much for the young grass to have the nitrogen put on it? Thanks again!
9:45 buy a bag for each acre and every application use 1/4 of the bag per acre this is just high enough dose to keep on the edge of burn but make everything lush green and at super grow 1"-2" per week , not turbo grow 3"-6" growth. only do this in the rainy seasons spring rains of may into the first 2 weeks of june, mid september rains into end of october. Midwest Landscapes Otsego Mn Commercial Whole Saler, A, E, F, K, L Minnesota dept of agriculture licensed
I use N-EXT organic liquid fertizer/bio-stimulants and never use more than 1.5 pounds of Nitrogen for the year...Dark green healthy grass all year long. Using Humic, RGS, Air-8, micro nutrient, and Sea Kelp. Mow twice a week and I make sure I get atleast 1.5 inches of water on my lawn per week. Nitrogen drive the bus but a good PH, CECs, and optimal soil test readings are why I can use less Nitrogen...I have very deep roots also and I dig up a spot every year and check them...Healthy soil is more important to me than big feedings...
This only applies to lawns that have rhizomatic-styles of growth such as KBG or bermuda or zero die off during the summer, yes? If you get bare sports from summer heat, they aren't going to fill in if you have rye or TTTF. The fall fert isn't going to hurt, but it isn't going to fix a lawn with patches.
Interestingly we run our chickens over the front yard during the winter in tractors. I’m thinking they are doing similar things, because the lawn our second season there was the greenest/thickest I’ve ever seen.
Or you can fill up your sprayer with urea at the gas station for a few bucks. Most stations with diesel around here have a DEF pump. If that's too intimidating, you can buy a box of BlueDef from most hardware stores.
Wish you would have touched on types of grass and/or if there are different rules that might apply and what area of the country you're in and if this might make a difference with both the application rate and time and also getting ahold of the product.
People questioned me when I was throwing down garden fertilizer in the fall knowing it would be broken down before spring. Been overseeding a sketchy lawn far below the bag rate (20-lb per 15K of lawn) to achieve a uniform grass type, it looks a little better every year. Soil PH and fertility is definitely the objective, and bringing in new grass cultivars has also made an impact considering all the random grass types and bare patches overtaken by weeds.
One thing to add if you do this and have a short cut lawn you should have your fungicide game ready. The one year I pounded N in the fall without applying the snow mold cocktail I had very bad snow mold in the spring. Connor has shown this in a few of his videos over the years as evidence as well.
Jesse, another great video. I am overseeding because I have some patching to do. I’ve been using urea for 2 years and it works great. I spray it before a rain event.
I’m gonna this a try! Never heard of this method. Not sure if it’s a Canadian thing, our laws are backwards up here when it comes to fertilizers and lawn chemicals, but my Scott’s Green max 27-0-2 doesn’t say on the back of bag the percentage of fast vs slow release. But I’m fairly certain this stuff is mostly fast release.
Greetings from Fargo. The previous fall blitz video was a gem, but this one is going to go into the history books! I closed on a home last winter and my lawn was the worst in the neighbor in spring. It wasn't until the second week of June that it was awake. In late July I began blitzing 0.5 lbs of N per week with Urea and I've had good enough uniformity using the Echo RB60 spreader on setting 4.5. A week ago I've switched to a starter fertilizer that's AMS based because my phosphorus test came back very low. My understanding is phosphorus is less available with higher pHs that are typical in our region and the cold soil temperatures in spring also reduce phosphorus uptake. There probably aren't too many folks with low P, but I'm curious if there is a significant difference in spring green up between lower-end sufficient levels of P and upper-end optimal levels with our particular climate in mind. Likewise, blitzing nitrogen means one will need to keep up with K. Perhaps those could be some good topics for future videos. Anyway, thanks for the great content and education Jesse!
How are you Potassium levels? I'd be cautious throwing down too much starter if you have high K levels. I've never heard of low P levels causing a slow spring green up. Hit your lawn with the blitz this year and see how well it comes in this spring and re-evaluate then. It's hard to know how nutrient deprived it was from the previous owners.
@@LAWNLIFE I did the soil test at NDSU before blitzing and the K was very high, 380ppm. I haven't applied any K until I began the 10-18-6. Regarding P, I saw purpling blades in spring and have read that P deficiency can cause stunted growth similar to N deficiency which also tested low. P tested very low at 5ppm so my plan was to raise P to the upper end of 50ppm. K will be raised 1.2 lbs per 1K for me to do so with the starter fert. I couldn't source any DAP or MAP. So while my K is already very high and I'm applying more, I'm also putting down a large amount of N for the year at 6+ lbs per 1K. I've read N to K should be either 3:2 or 4:2. I think I should still be dropping a considerable amount of K (wild guess 150ppm) especially because I've been bagging the whole time. I'm operating on a lot of theory here and little actual experience.
@@srtswpak47 up your N to 20, add sulpher and iron up to 3-7. throw in a dose of calcium almost mid may. bird droppings as slow release will help the most. also use your used coffee grounds first round in april N should be 23-32 to wake your lawn up and spur it to go-go-green-grow with atleast a 7-10 on the end to force it to blossom bloom vigor kaboom. you also need some gypsum and a bit of lime. don't go too decent on the lime, but most importantly your lawn needs compost. the microbes are struggling to survive. manure-rotten wood pulp-leaves-grass clippings-rotting aquatic vegetation mix. 1/4" to 1/2" in this compost mixper year for the next 3 years either in two 1/4" spreadings per year (early spring early fall right before the rains) or one 1/2" spreading in early spring, right after the snow comes off. you must not be too far from the badlands
Thanks for watching Kelly! I forgot to answer your comment from a previous video. Let me go back and see if I can find it and answer it for you! My bad!
Haha no worries! It was about ripping up an area of my yard but I ended up dethatching the area and going to throw some seed down that I already had to see if the area will fill in.
Wow, great job with the editing on this video. I did this nitrogen blitz last year and ended up with the worst snow mold I’ve ever seen in the spring. I decided to overseed this fall and I was considering using high Potassium fertilizer in the fall going forward just to help with the winter stress but you’ve definitely made me want to give this blitz another try next year. Your lawn always looks soooo good!
Thanks man! I've never had a serious snow mold issue while doing this. Snow mold seems to be hit and miss depending on the winter around me. Some years people get nailed in my neighborhood, some years there's nothing. I haven't noticed a correlation between fall nitrogen and snow mold
@@LAWNLIFE I felt like my grass was so healthy and green and moist when the snow came that it contributed to the mold. All that moisture was trapped under there. I wondered if I had let it properly go dormant, if I would have been better off.
I went heavy on nitrogen in fall 2 yrs ago and had bad snow mold as well. My whole lawn looked like cheetah print. That same year as the mold I had horrible lawn rust as well. This year the rust just arrived but I made it till September so annoying to have it but I'll try to feed it well to maybe grow it out and have fungicide as a backup option
Hello, I have new sod that was laid in June. With ample watering it looks stellar now. I live in Toronto, Canada. If I do use this method of using .5 every two weeks, won't I risk the chance of burning the grass? The temps have not come down as yet.
Really helpful video! One question I had is if I was going to be selectively leveling and over seeding those areas that I'm leveling with a 50/50 soil/sand mix, is there anything to watch out for with those newly seeded areas when doing this process?
Great advice Jesse. I have applied urea three times to my lawn one week apart and have not seen any change to the grass. We have had a stressful summer(Illinois) with very dry and hot. My yard has a lot of dead spots. Do you think i need to add anything along with the urea like iron or something else? Thanks. Keep up your great informative videos
same here - in illinois. may want to try amending some humic acid and/or liquid compost to increase nutrient uptake. if you don't mind me asking - how much urea did you use per 1000 sq ft? i'm about to do 1 lb per 1000 sq ft but i have about 55000 sq ft of lawn! my lawn is currently "so so" but i've been using liquid kelp, humic acid, and liquid compost to boost up the soil health first.
Definitely going to try it with some aeration this year and see what happens and I may just spot seed certain spots since I don’t have a spreading grass but I’m curious to if the tillering and thickening in response to a crazy amount of N would be enough to at least shade over some small bare spots. What do you think?
I halfa$$ed it because I got to this video late. I was able to do 3 weeks of Scotts Turfbuilder in fall of '22. I was using up the rest of turfbuilder I had. Going to use Urea this year. But a huge difference. My lawn was dark green 3 weeks before anyone else's and it is super thick. Wonder if I could use a lower dose of Urea in Summer and water in or apply before rain.
@@3rdyellow In the fall I used a hand spreader at 3 with Scotts. I would and will use Urea going forward. Picked up 10 lbs on Amazon for 20.00. I put Urea down on the "2 setting" and did it every week after I cut. Its a huge difference. Just be patient because it took about a month or so for the bare spots to fill in.
I have a decent lawn. I was going to over-seed my cool season lawn, with the hopes year over year of crowding out weeds. I do have a crabgrass issue. So would this nitrogen be helping the weeds to grow also? Would you pull weeds and then start applying fertilizer?
I think that was the most clear and comprehensive "how to" fertilizer vids I've seen in a looong time. Thumbs up!
I followed your advice last year and did the Fall Nitrogen Blitz using Scott’s Turf Builder Winterguard Fall lawn food. And OMG...my lawn filled in and was still beautiful even in December! I had to cut my lawn before setting up my Christmas lawn decor. By April, my lawn was already greener than all of my neighbors! Thank you for sharing your lawn care tips!
When you say fill in, were the spots that filled in pretty bare? Trying to figure out if this will work for me.
But he didnt say to buy Scotts Turf Builder, he said to buy Urea?
Scott’s is basic and way over priced
I was planning on doing the same thing this fall using Scotts. Can you tell me how long you waited between applications and how many applications?
@@SaywhatohnoThe nitrogen used in Scott's, is Urea.
It worked!! It completely changed my lawn. 5 lb bag of urea was $35, put it down over about 5 weeks. I also added it and then seeded using shade grass under the trampoline and it’s never been thicker.
I followed your advice and this Spring my lawn woke up way before my neighbors and looked amazing! Yes, I was mowing every 3 days but totally worth it 😂. My neighbor said his lawn wouldn’t look that good till mid June! Thanks
I really want to thank you for this amazing advice. I followed this strategy from September 2023 through the end of October 2023 and the results were absolutely amazing. I was going to try reseeding again this year, as I have for the past 2 years but decided to try this instead. So Glad I Did!!! Best Results Ever! Many Thanks Again
I did this nitrogen blitz last fall and my lawn greened up faster than everyone on my block this spring. I will be doing this yearly as part of my lawn care routine now.
You have to like your grass to be ok with this concept. I feel most people overseed every year cause they have numerous varieties of grass and try to overseed with better cultivars to eventually establish a better lawn overall. I like the idea of this for someone who has a great lawn already and is happy with the current grass types in there lawn.
Yes, and if you have weeds like creeping charlie, they will come back much worse in the spring. Great information, but you need a perfect lawn first.
@@sundog1973 thanks for this insight. My yard is just short mown pasture. Sounds like if I tried this I'd get taller of everything I don't want.
Except this will never work. There's a reason that other grass is growing there already. Either you don't take care of your yard or the variety is just so strong is takes over on its own. Having a nice yard doesn't come from doing one step here or there, you have to do everything, all the time
@adog3336 I do know that we also overseed to replace lost grass and you also validate my point, that most people don’t do a “fall nitrogen blitz” because we choose to overseed instead because we have reasons why we need to incorporate newer better varieties of grass or to replace lost grass aswell.
You will never overseed better cultivars in your lawn. The existing grass will crowd it out and it will die. The only way to change out your cultivars is to nuke your lawn and start over.
Possibly the best nitrogen math I've seen anywhere, great graphics. Nice job.
Thanks Steffen. A lot of hours went into this one. Thanks for noticing all of the hard work!
New to the channel… my wife and I just bought our first house and I’m most excited to get back to mowing and keeping up the lawn.. great channel and great grass!
I’m a year in our first house and there no cooler feeling
This is the best Chanel and I'm new to fertilizing my own grass . I currently have a company that doing it for me this season but it is never made me happy been with them for many years. . Thanks for making this video. you make everything easy for me to understand . I ordered 10 gallon fertilizer sprayer and will attach it to my zero turn mower. I'm excited I can't wait to start and see the result.also already bought a 50lbs of urea 46 0 0....
If you're spraying urea be careful how much you put down at one time. This video is for putting down granular applications in the fall
I did the blitz with urea thanks to your advise last fall. I have KBG, mono-stand of midnight. It worked great. Applied at your suggested rate weekly from September thru October. Will be doing it again this fall. Thanks for this tip 👍
I live on Long Island, NY. Just did the NST on my lawn instead of overseeding. I put down Scotts winter fertilizer (32% nitrogen) at rate of 1/2 pound per 1000 square feet every two weeks for 5 weeks. Last application was December 10. It is now the beginning of January and my lawn has never looked better. It is still lush and green. Neighbors lawns have already lost their color. Hopefully it continue through the spring and summer 2023. I last cut my lawn at 3 inches late November. After late November while still dark green there was no additional growth. Much, much faster, easier and cheaper than reseeding and with instant results. (I have a John Deere lawn tractor and cutting my grass is my "therapy".)
Half a pound of fertilizer or half pound of nitrogen?
I did it this fall(2023). I only did 3 applications and already my lawn has never been greener or thicker (Nov 16th)and I’ve lived here 30 years. Can’t wait to see what it looks like in the spring. I used a combination of ammonium sulfate and Scott’s turf builder. I could only find one 50lb ammonium sulfate in the south hills of Pittsburgh
I can verify, this works great. It’s spring of 2024. My backyard that was a total mess is so much thicker and looks great. My front yard that was pretty good is now so thick my electric mower has trouble cutting if I wait too long to cut.
How much did you put down? At what rate?
@@3rdyellow I followed the rate explained in the video
Why not both? Cool season lawns, you can over seed Sept1 and apply some starter feet a few days later. After 2 weeks or so, if you did things right, you should be able to start mowing. At that point you could start the blitz, even go .25lb per 1k each week. This is what I did last year and it worked out great.
This is what I do every year, perfect results.
I use 46-0-0 (my crack fertilizer) throughout the fall. I did the last application around November 15, 2021 and did not fertilize at all in 2022 and the lawn stayed green (a test to see how long it would last). During the winter months my lawn is still green. It's time to start again. Use slow release during hotter months (Sunniland 24-0-11).
Having a green lawn during winter is not magic, just make sure there is lots of perennial ryegrass in your seed mix. It's a genetic thing, has nothing to do with fertilizer.
How did you use it in the fall? What twas the application rate?
In England, we just let the grass do what it does best... Rest when it's hot/dry. Grow when conditions are right. After a record heatwave, lawn & pasture brown, I just waited for September rain. It's looking better than ever. That's the beauty of grass. After a stressful summer, it comes back better and stronger than ever. If you water and feed the grass, all you do is grow weeds.
Even though I live in the south I did a total lawn renovation and planted SPF30 hybrid bluegrass. This stuff is absolutely beautiful and it survives the heat given that it gets adequate water during the summer. Anyway, 99.9% of the lawns around here are bermuda, so my bluegrass lawns sticks out BIG TIME, haha. Literally every time I'm working in the lawn and someone walks by they stop to tell me how beautiful my lawn is. I've been doing this fall nitrogen blitz for a couple years now and the results are truly remarkable. I highly recommend doing it!
Sounds like total neighborhood domination. Good work! 😂
I've been researching hybrid bluegrass as well (transition zone 6a). Do you mind saying what brand of SPF30 you went with? Where did you get it? Thanks!!
@@GTeton73 Outsidepride is where I got mine, and as far as I know that is the only place to get SPF30 (I could be wrong). It is definitely worth the effort to renovate for this grass type. Just be sure to beat down whatever was there prior (bermuda) to the dirt, and have a bermuda suppression plan (pylex or what I use triclopyr) bc bermuda is impossible to kill and will attempt a comeback next summer.
Great video. I need to point out one missing item. Water. In addition to a big bump up in mowing, I think you need to up your watering. This could be a big deal now with the expanding drought and water restrictions. I think that throwing down a bunch of N and starving the grass for water will hurt rather than aid the grass. Our Bay area rainy season doesn't start until November, which is too late. Thoughts? This problem also applies to over-seeding.
Fixing a lawn isn't an overnight process in my opinion. Water is critical, especially if you're going to be putting down a lot of nitrogen like this guy suggests. My advice would be to keep an eye on the weather and try to time your applications around rainy days. If that means that you only put down 1 or 2 lbs of N in the next two months then so be it. There's always next season - and patience is the name of the game in lawn care.
november is not to late. california only has 1 season permanent summer. it's the equivalent of saying tropical forrests experience snow for 3-5 months of every year.
nitrogen load even during drought keeps the grass growing and green despite lack of moisture. it's applying the right amount so it doesn't burn that is the problem. water determines how much will spread out, sink in how deep and how fast, that's all. not saying water isn't huge, just that plants pull water out of the air when needed. probably won't work in places like arizona and nevada but coastal states, tropicals and land of lake country or rivers galore, it's a non issue.
If you all are worried about drought then can you kill the lawn and plant clovers? Because then when you don’t expect to deal with drought you can kill the clovers and plant grass. I’ve just been fertilizing and watering the front and side lawns which probably total the back yard sq ft. (I don’t live in California) the back yard I grow dallis grass and whatever was there originally so weeds essentially I kill dandelions with a propane torch. But I don’t want to spray spectricide or whatever to kill the weeds so the pet isn’t exhibit “a” for ill effects. I personally didn’t want to p*ss the neighbors off with clovers. Is that your thought process as well?
This obviously works for people above the transition zone.
Perennially rye @ 10lbs per 1000sq ft in my bermuda lawn october-April….then spraying to rid it. Sucks for us southerners!
Love the channel
This fall nitrogen blitz is really working for me. Ty Jessy.
This channel is a handheld walkthrough on how to be the boss on the block. Well done! Subscribed.
Fall nitrogen blitz has changed the way my lawn looks - tried it last year after your video and it works so well
Awesome man! I'm glad it worked out. Let some of these people that think I'm crazy in the comments know that lol
Thank you for this information. I’m a relatively new lawn care enthusiast, and I have been struggling with low N constantly. Did a renovation late 2020, and it’s doing ok. But this is really helping. Put down my second application today! IT’s responded well!
Nitrogen is the first to be washed out
Absolutely fantastic video Jesse! Great tips and the editing is MONEY 👍🏻
This only works for grass that spreads, like KBG for cool season lawns. It's the only grass in that type that spreads. This will not work for PRG or TTT, as they do not have rhizomes.
@@globalthreat7084 there are new types of real fescue that have rhizomes. Barenbrug rtf
I usually dose with 46-0-0 and pgr....works great
Great info Jesse. Typically I just throw down 2 feedings of a typical big box offering with a composition of similar parts nitrogen and potassium, say 12-0-18. Lawn is then able to stay green into late fall, manufacture adequate food reserves for winter while enhancing/protecting grass structure for the impending spring. I agree that snow mold appears to be a hit or miss phenomenon likely dependent on consistency of winter temps ie. consistently cold vs. freeze/thaw cycles. Snow mold, overall, is not really a problem - other than visual - and disappears with spring’s first lawn maintenance
Thanks for watching man. I agree with everything you mentioned. I like to go a little heavier with the N than you do but to each their own!
last number is blossom bloom, this will only make your lawn grass blossom more flowers which last longer and extend the period of flowering which is extremely hard on the roots to provide vigor for so long instead of store it. you want a 20-30 first number and a low 3-8 mid number potassium is only a ph balancer way more effective than calcium and sulpher. nitrogen is for mostly leaf growth and some root growth sulpher and iron are for deep dark color which helps in the high heat drier part of summer to keep the grass from sun burning.
I'm thinking you know a lot more than this talking head.
@@aprilgeneric8027
Jesse, thanks for this!
It’s June 1st 2023, and I’m using this to kick my lawn, trying to get it to bounce back from Memorial Day. My lawn did not enjoy 48 hours of 20 people and games.
Thanks for this tip
This was, by far, the best and easiest explained tutorial about fertilizer. Well done sir!
Wow, thank you for this compliment!! I really appreciate the kind words! A lot of work went into this one.
@@LAWNLIFE You're very welcome and you deserve the praise. Because of your post, I have the nicest lawn in my 26 home subdivision. Thanks again from Southeast Michigan!
@@keithp115 that's awesome! I'm glad everything is working. Keep up the good work!
My boy Jesse is on point like always. Already did one app about 2 weeks ago at .75 lbs per 1000 to help my lawn recover a bit faster from the heat stress. Perfectly timed it with rain forecasted. Already rebounded lovely. Next app this Friday at the .5 lbs per 1000 like you suggested and then I’ll probably skip an app because I mulch my clippings and the existing nitrogen in the lawn will just break that down as another app basically. Plus it’ll be easier to keep up with the mowing haha. Love that you featured my last comment from last year’s video too. Thanks again brother!
I did it last year. My lawn is amazing! Thank you!!! I also started early this spring. Any spring summer tips?
I use the def fluid for Diesel trucks and I usually mix 2 ounces per gallon in my liquid sprayer I’ve been doing it for three years every month
That seems like a low rate only putting down once a month. Do you make other applications with other materials?
There is a drawback to this. Late doses of N before winter make the Grass cell boundaries softer (as opposed to Potassium) which increases the risk of snow mould during winter
Could you elaborate on this? I have read something similar and a high dose of potassium before winter dormancy and a fungicide help. Also doesn’t length of snow cover contribute to the outcome?
@@-What-are-your-thoughts sure lengh of snow/high moisture are a Faktor, but depending on the plant available potassium levels a potassium rich fertilization with rather low N levels (e.g. 9-5-20) once soll temperatures are decreasing below 12°C will make a Grass with harder cell boudaries that will be very robust against freezing temps and snow mould. High N makes it green, but soft
@@michaelmock4894 depends on where you live....im sure
I blitz the crap out of mine, never had snow mold. south jersey. we get snow.
I've never had a serious snow mold issue while doing this. Snow mold seems to be hit and miss depending on the winter around me. Some years people getting nailed in my neighborhood, some years there's nothing. I haven't noticed a correlation
@@LAWNLIFE You DO NOT want to do this a few days before frost. It WILL cause snow mold. And another thing, is you can only do this with KBG because it will spread. TTT of PRG won't. Those grasses won't spread. You need to overseeed them. Sorry, but this video is horrible info.
great video! ive been using 50% liquid urea and liquid fish all year round with a hose end sprayer..been doin it for years works great and cheep!
I’m gonna try this. Hope you’re right. Thanks!
Jessy, I have a good suggestion. Many people struggle in math. Because of this, could you make a video saying they should use .42 lbs of n of ams per thousand feet. That would be 2 lbs per 1000. That would be so much easier for the math challenged. You could also do 1 lb/1000 ou urea for .46. .46 or .42 is close enough to .5 lb. I think it's a goog idea.
You are providing some great information.
So I guess the farmer in me doesn't get the multiple 20#/ac applications. AMS the better choice for your goals btw, the N in AMS is in the nitrate form and is safe from volatilization and is immediately plant available. Urea needs heat to be plant available and requires quite a bit more rain to get into the plant. If I were you I'd do a 50#/ac app of a urea AMS blend and add some potash as K availability in drought and heat goes way down. Early spring another shot of AMS and mangansese sulphate will keep you green through drought and heat. Manganese and sulfur are way underrated in grasses in drought.
Great video. One add….I prefer urea for the reasons you mention but it can break down quickly and the usability diminishes if it’s not watered in quickly. It breaks down fast. For that reason and if not dissolved in water and applied with a tank sprayer AS maybe easier to use if available. Applying straight urea will burn the lawn easily unless you have a really good spreader. I always recommend people dissolved it and spray it then water in.
dude, that McGuire reference was lol and cold-blooded, excellent
My lawns is less than a year old and i still have some bare spots, but I plan on following the advice in this video for next season. Great video, Jesse!
Thanks for watching!
If you have bare spots then you need more seed to fill in those spots. KBG will spread to bare spots if you have KBG. If not, then seed. All this video is showing is when to add fertilizer. Adding fertilizer should not be compared to over-seeding. Completely different things and different situations. More of a click bait video to be honest. Everyone knows to fertilize their yard in the fall. It helps through the winter months and helps for a quick green up.
give it a few years. roots will spread out in 3-5 years so long as they aren't over trafficked and the ground isn't compacted or starving for water.
hmm! I have never tried that before. I would love to see a comparison of both types on lawns and see which ones looks better over time.
It may be cheaper but my God does the effort level go up 100% I’d much rather overseed once fertilize once turn on sprinklers and be done with it versus now needing to fertilize every 7 to 14 days for the rest of the season.
On top of the additional mowing. But I'll be doing both.
THAT IS WHY YOU WILL NEVER BE GREAT
Idk man... Dethatching, thatch cleanup, seeding, fertilizing, putting down peat moss, staying on top of watering... I'd rather go out there a fertilize once a week and mow. Different strokes for different folks I guess.
@@LAWNLIFE I dethatched this weekend. 18 bags. Brutal. But, it needed to be done.
@@antbatt1313 good work man! Dethatching is so satisfying. Clean up sucks ass lol. It will be worth it though. Start hitting in with nitrogen and it's going to look amazing in a month or two
This worked great last fall! Thank you!
Can I also apply this to grass seed?
exactly why my go to nitrogen fert is Andersons DGL. small particles that equal more even coverage on the lawn.
Thanks for this information. Nice to know there is an alternative. take care
Thanks for sharing your videos and keep them coming please.
i am topdressing with orgro, and then overseeding with RTF (Rhizomatous Tall Fescue), which is a SPREADING fescue that will self repair bare spots on the lawn! currently, the fescue on the lawn is the typical clumping type.
i am hoping the RTF overseeding will be the last i ever have to do.
I Overseed every other year, and do a Nitrogen Blitz every other year.
I've found the best way to spoon feed Urea is with a hose end sprayer. I have the Ortho hose end sprayer. At first I use a larger container (a tea pitcher) that I fill with warm to hot water. Then I measure out my urea and dump it in. The Ortho hose end sprayer doesn't hold enough so this is why I do it this way. I set my Ortho to setting "3" then try to cover 1,000 square feet. Then I refill a time or two and then I'm all done. The urea dissolves very quickly in the warm-hot water so all of this doesn't take hardly any time at all, maybe 15 minutes. This is by far my easiest, least amount of work required method of putting any sort of contents on my lawn.
how do you keep it from getting places other than the lawn, just real careful? nitrogen stains sidewalks.
Nitrogen doesn't stain sidewalks, iron does.
Thanks for sharing this with the community. Glad it works for you! Thanks for watching man.
@@user-jl1sz7su4p I've never stained anything with nitrogen, it's iron you have to watch out for. It's as simple as spraying a garden hose, you just put it where you want it
Even easier - next time you fill up with gas pick up a gallon of DEF (diesel exhaust fluid). 35.5% urea, 64.5% demineralized water. Works out to 15-0-0 is cheap and already premixed for you. Fill up the ortho and use setting 1.5oz/gallon and spray your lawn evenly. That'll give you about 0.3 lbs/1000 sqft of nitrogen per application.
Fantastic video! Really well done! I'm not sure this works for tall fescue. For spreading grasses like KBG, this will work wonderfully! For fescue, especially those that had a rough summer, this plan will help with growth and tillering, but it will have a splotchy appearance. After a few years of thickening up the turf through overseeding, this technique could end up working well.
This is true, but 90% of the people watching this will have KBG in their cool season grass. Not many ppl have a 100% fescue/rye lawn. Thanks for watching Chuck!
@@LAWNLIFE True, true... except me... 100% Tall Fescue baby!!
@@DaddingAllDay welcome to the 10% 😂
Larry Bird is in the 10% too
@@larrybird6696 the hick from French Lick has 100% fescue huh? Who would've thought..
WOW! that's exactly my point!
Minnesota represent!
Been looking at Diesel Esaust Fluid at 35.5% urea in a hose end sprayer. Very cheap and there is a video on it. Haven't tried it yet but seriously considering it.
I just had my lawn oversewed today....oh well! great vid!
Thanks man!
LOVED this video Jesse - great tips and the editing is on 🔥🔥
Thanks Simon! A Lot of time went into this one! 🤣
Holy cow just unloaded a truck load of AMS wish could get the prices for it. The Ag usage is a lot diffrent in Kansas
If you're one of the lucky few to have a Rural King nearby, they sell 51lbs of Ammonium Sulfate for $17.99 (was $13.99 last year). You can spray Ammonium Sulfate safely without irrigation if you double the carrier/water. The max rate I spray AMS without irrigation is 0.21lbs nitrogen (1lb AMS) per 1000 sq/ft using a minimum of 2 gallons of water.
I have 4 acres of lawn, and I did the math. I nned 11 bags of fertilizer foreach weekly spplicatiom. Thst'd $330 weekly for say 5 weeks. Yeah, right. Why not just overseed the entire lawn once to get more grass seed rather than blitz out my entire checkbook?
How are you overseeding that much lawn? Do you water the seeds in at all? Or just throw it down and let mother nature do the work?
@@3rdyellow 4 Acres. . . Mother Nature! DuH!
Thank you so much for this video. Great advice!
If the lawn has been over-seeded already, and new growth is appearing, would it be too much for the young grass to have the nitrogen put on it?
Thanks again!
9:45 buy a bag for each acre and every application use 1/4 of the bag per acre this is just high enough dose to keep on the edge of burn but make everything lush green and at super grow 1"-2" per week , not turbo grow 3"-6" growth. only do this in the rainy seasons spring rains of may into the first 2 weeks of june, mid september rains into end of october.
Midwest Landscapes Otsego Mn Commercial Whole Saler, A, E, F, K, L Minnesota dept of agriculture licensed
How often do you put it down? Weekly?
Another amazing video jesse!!! Love to see it brother
Thanks bro! Appreciate you tuning in!
I use N-EXT organic liquid fertizer/bio-stimulants and never use more than 1.5 pounds of Nitrogen for the year...Dark green healthy grass all year long. Using Humic, RGS, Air-8, micro nutrient, and Sea Kelp. Mow twice a week and I make sure I get atleast 1.5 inches of water on my lawn per week. Nitrogen drive the bus but a good PH, CECs, and optimal soil test readings are why I can use less Nitrogen...I have very deep roots also and I dig up a spot every year and check them...Healthy soil is more important to me than big feedings...
How often do you apply materials to the lawn?
This only applies to lawns that have rhizomatic-styles of growth such as KBG or bermuda or zero die off during the summer, yes? If you get bare sports from summer heat, they aren't going to fill in if you have rye or TTTF. The fall fert isn't going to hurt, but it isn't going to fix a lawn with patches.
Interestingly we run our chickens over the front yard during the winter in tractors. I’m thinking they are doing similar things, because the lawn our second season there was the greenest/thickest I’ve ever seen.
Or you can fill up your sprayer with urea at the gas station for a few bucks.
Most stations with diesel around here have a DEF pump.
If that's too intimidating, you can buy a box of BlueDef from most hardware stores.
Great video sir. Never thought about buying urea.
Thanks Rod! Good luck with it!
Is like green paint.
Nice job
If you’re in Minnesota, check to see if there is a Federated Co-op near by. #50 AMS for $25
Thanks for looking out!
I just got Pennington Ultra Green. It’s got 5% Iron.
Wish you would have touched on types of grass and/or if there are different rules that might apply and what area of the country you're in and if this might make a difference with both the application rate and time and also getting ahold of the product.
Definitely gonna give this a try
People questioned me when I was throwing down garden fertilizer in the fall knowing it would be broken down before spring. Been overseeding a sketchy lawn far below the bag rate (20-lb per 15K of lawn) to achieve a uniform grass type, it looks a little better every year. Soil PH and fertility is definitely the objective, and bringing in new grass cultivars has also made an impact considering all the random grass types and bare patches overtaken by weeds.
How often did you put it down?
Bro my backyard made your video lol....I was like wait thats my lawn lol
One thing to add if you do this and have a short cut lawn you should have your fungicide game ready. The one year I pounded N in the fall without applying the snow mold cocktail I had very bad snow mold in the spring. Connor has shown this in a few of his videos over the years as evidence as well.
I haven't gotten any bad snow mold over the last 5 years I've been doing this... 🤷♂️
@@LAWNLIFE for your health and safety you must have an RO system for drinking water if on a well
Jesse, another great video. I am overseeding because I have some patching to do. I’ve been using urea for 2 years and it works great. I spray it before a rain event.
That's the way to do it Ron! Thanks for always watching!
Congratulations on being called out on grassfactor. I’m sure it will help your channel. I don’t think they understand how Minnesota works lol
I’m gonna this a try! Never heard of this method. Not sure if it’s a Canadian thing, our laws are backwards up here when it comes to fertilizers and lawn chemicals, but my Scott’s Green max 27-0-2 doesn’t say on the back of bag the percentage of fast vs slow release. But I’m fairly certain this stuff is mostly fast release.
Scott's Green Max ---8.1% Ammonium Sulfate
10.4% Urea
6.8% Slow Release
10% Sulfur
That is the U.S. Bag on the back may be different in Canada.
I wish I saw this video YESTERDAY! I just threw out some seed. 😭
That’s some clean green screen 💧
Stop telling people my secrets lol
Do you recommend aerating as well?
Greetings from Fargo. The previous fall blitz video was a gem, but this one is going to go into the history books! I closed on a home last winter and my lawn was the worst in the neighbor in spring. It wasn't until the second week of June that it was awake. In late July I began blitzing 0.5 lbs of N per week with Urea and I've had good enough uniformity using the Echo RB60 spreader on setting 4.5. A week ago I've switched to a starter fertilizer that's AMS based because my phosphorus test came back very low. My understanding is phosphorus is less available with higher pHs that are typical in our region and the cold soil temperatures in spring also reduce phosphorus uptake. There probably aren't too many folks with low P, but I'm curious if there is a significant difference in spring green up between lower-end sufficient levels of P and upper-end optimal levels with our particular climate in mind. Likewise, blitzing nitrogen means one will need to keep up with K. Perhaps those could be some good topics for future videos. Anyway, thanks for the great content and education Jesse!
How are you Potassium levels? I'd be cautious throwing down too much starter if you have high K levels. I've never heard of low P levels causing a slow spring green up. Hit your lawn with the blitz this year and see how well it comes in this spring and re-evaluate then. It's hard to know how nutrient deprived it was from the previous owners.
@@LAWNLIFE I did the soil test at NDSU before blitzing and the K was very high, 380ppm. I haven't applied any K until I began the 10-18-6. Regarding P, I saw purpling blades in spring and have read that P deficiency can cause stunted growth similar to N deficiency which also tested low. P tested very low at 5ppm so my plan was to raise P to the upper end of 50ppm. K will be raised 1.2 lbs per 1K for me to do so with the starter fert. I couldn't source any DAP or MAP. So while my K is already very high and I'm applying more, I'm also putting down a large amount of N for the year at 6+ lbs per 1K. I've read N to K should be either 3:2 or 4:2. I think I should still be dropping a considerable amount of K (wild guess 150ppm) especially because I've been bagging the whole time. I'm operating on a lot of theory here and little actual experience.
@@srtswpak47 up your N to 20, add sulpher and iron up to 3-7. throw in a dose of calcium almost mid may. bird droppings as slow release will help the most. also use your used coffee grounds first round in april N should be 23-32 to wake your lawn up and spur it to go-go-green-grow with atleast a 7-10 on the end to force it to blossom bloom vigor kaboom. you also need some gypsum and a bit of lime. don't go too decent on the lime, but most importantly your lawn needs compost. the microbes are struggling to survive. manure-rotten wood pulp-leaves-grass clippings-rotting aquatic vegetation mix. 1/4" to 1/2" in this compost mixper year for the next 3 years either in two 1/4" spreadings per year (early spring early fall right before the rains) or one 1/2" spreading in early spring, right after the snow comes off. you must not be too far from the badlands
Loved it here in Michigan. I did an extra hit of nitro in early fall and it did so well. Great info here!
New sub here and so glad I found this channel! Great video going to try this out this fall
Absolutely hilarious the Mark Mc Gwire part.
Had to do it 😂
Definitely going to try this.. my lawn is really struggling this year. Thanks for the great video! 💚
Thanks for watching Kelly! I forgot to answer your comment from a previous video. Let me go back and see if I can find it and answer it for you! My bad!
Haha no worries! It was about ripping up an area of my yard but I ended up dethatching the area and going to throw some seed down that I already had to see if the area will fill in.
@@kellyf618 I responded to you a little bit ago. You made the right decision it sounds like!
Great job !! i didnt know this Thank you very much !!
top notch video Jesse. great advice👍
Wow, great job with the editing on this video. I did this nitrogen blitz last year and ended up with the worst snow mold I’ve ever seen in the spring. I decided to overseed this fall and I was considering using high Potassium fertilizer in the fall going forward just to help with the winter stress but you’ve definitely made me want to give this blitz another try next year. Your lawn always looks soooo good!
Thanks man! I've never had a serious snow mold issue while doing this. Snow mold seems to be hit and miss depending on the winter around me. Some years people get nailed in my neighborhood, some years there's nothing. I haven't noticed a correlation between fall nitrogen and snow mold
@@LAWNLIFE I felt like my grass was so healthy and green and moist when the snow came that it contributed to the mold. All that moisture was trapped under there. I wondered if I had let it properly go dormant, if I would have been better off.
what state are you in?
I went heavy on nitrogen in fall 2 yrs ago and had bad snow mold as well. My whole lawn looked like cheetah print. That same year as the mold I had horrible lawn rust as well. This year the rust just arrived but I made it till September so annoying to have it but I'll try to feed it well to maybe grow it out and have fungicide as a backup option
Lol you did mcgwire dirty there, and I like it.
2:26 LMAO!!! Great stuff!
Great video Jesse. Been a fan of your work. Some of the more honest info out on the tubes. Please don't change!
Thanks for kind words Tom. I try to be as honest as possible without everything! Appreciate you taking the time to watch!
DEF (diesel additive, aka pig pee, aka urea) is pretty cheap and you can put it in a sprayer. Fert and water in one.
Hello, I have new sod that was laid in June. With ample watering it looks stellar now. I live in Toronto, Canada. If I do use this method of using .5 every two weeks, won't I risk the chance of burning the grass? The temps have not come down as yet.
Really helpful video! One question I had is if I was going to be selectively leveling and over seeding those areas that I'm leveling with a 50/50 soil/sand mix, is there anything to watch out for with those newly seeded areas when doing this process?
Great advice Jesse. I have applied urea three times to my lawn one week apart and have not seen any change to the grass. We have had a stressful summer(Illinois) with very dry and hot. My yard has a lot of dead spots. Do you think i need to add anything along with the urea like iron or something else? Thanks. Keep up your great informative videos
same here - in illinois. may want to try amending some humic acid and/or liquid compost to increase nutrient uptake. if you don't mind me asking - how much urea did you use per 1000 sq ft? i'm about to do 1 lb per 1000 sq ft but i have about 55000 sq ft of lawn! my lawn is currently "so so" but i've been using liquid kelp, humic acid, and liquid compost to boost up the soil health first.
I put it down at .5 pounds per 1000. My third application I did go to 1 pound per 1000
Thanks captain. I will try humic acid if I can find it
Definitely going to try it with some aeration this year and see what happens and I may just spot seed certain spots since I don’t have a spreading grass but I’m curious to if the tillering and thickening in response to a crazy amount of N would be enough to at least shade over some small bare spots. What do you think?
I halfa$$ed it because I got to this video late. I was able to do 3 weeks of Scotts Turfbuilder in fall of '22. I was using up the rest of turfbuilder I had. Going to use Urea this year. But a huge difference. My lawn was dark green 3 weeks before anyone else's and it is super thick. Wonder if I could use a lower dose of Urea in Summer and water in or apply before rain.
At what rate did you put it down?
@@3rdyellow In the fall I used a hand spreader at 3 with Scotts. I would and will use Urea going forward. Picked up 10 lbs on Amazon for 20.00. I put Urea down on the "2 setting" and did it every week after I cut. Its a huge difference. Just be patient because it took about a month or so for the bare spots to fill in.
How many pounds of urea per 1000sqft?
Started the fnb today. Can't wait to see the results thank you for this video good to see different methods besides the typical overseed 👍🏼
I have a decent lawn. I was going to over-seed my cool season lawn, with the hopes year over year of crowding out weeds. I do have a crabgrass issue. So would this nitrogen be helping the weeds to grow also? Would you pull weeds and then start applying fertilizer?
If you want UREA just use DEF fluid it’s $16 for a 2.5 gallon jug at Walmart
Blue Def fluid for the win. Spoon feed that liquid.