@@arghgrmbl I thought about that idea for a minute too, then came to the conclusion that wrench flats on a thumb wheel would be less than ideal. I like the hex idea since it allows the use of a boxed end wrench too.
I'm not sure I've ever tightened a scissor knurl with just my fingers. I think I would lean toward making a nice looking nut, maybe a little shoulder at the bottom and some generous chamfers.
@@aciid5899 That's what I thought of. As someone who's made replacement knobs for telescope focusers, I've been amazed at not just how larger knobs make fine adjustments easier (the main reason for making the knobs larger), but also, how they make even heavily-loaded focusers -- say, with cameras attached -- so much easier. I think even a seemingly small increase in the size of the brass knob might give the needed extra 'oomph'. Leverage has always seemed a bit like magic to me!
For "oomph" try moving the cross slide back a bit, easily snugging up the knob, and advancing the cross slide until the axles are again directly above and below the axis of the part. Big time oomph with very little cross pressure on the part. If you don't move it back too far, the ridges will not completely disengage with the already formed grooves and thus will not double track. The damage to the pyramids is frequently caused by chips broken off during the forming process getting caught between the wheels and the part. A thorough flood of high-pressure lubricant (not cutting oil; this is a forming process remember) can help to flush away chips.
I cannot express just how invaluable your content is. You have such an expertly crafted blend of humor and technical information that I can't even put into words. I'm simultaneously laughing my ass off while also feeling overwhelmed with information (in a good way).
Quinn... you should get yourself a vernier scribing tool. I got one for work (sheetmetal and stainless fabricator) because it was cheap. Soon after got another one for home and its had the most use on the lathe.
I really like this project thanks. I was just looking at the Eagle Rock knurling tool but its over 300 bucks and I love making stuff so Im going to give this kit a shot.
@7:00, sometimes the A-B-C knob can be used to slow down the feed rate without messing with the change gears. I know that you know; just mentioning it for anyone that hasn't noticed yet. @21:23 A pass with a cutting tool or a touch with a file will take the irregular tops off and leave very regular flat topped diamonds. @22:07 Boeshield T-9 keeps all of my bare cast iron from rusting on the hot, humid Texas Gulf Coast. My home is just 5-6 miles from salt water and it protects my woodworking and metal working tools very well. Noticed a mini-split up in the corner there in your shop. Awesome!
That adjustment nut knurling conundrum reminds me a bit of how the first thing you do with a ball turning tool is a ball end for the ball turning tool handle.
Maybe you should try rust-blueing. It's not as lightning fast as cold blue, but can be done with common household chemistry. Basically just rust your part with an acid and salt (common vinegar works) and then boil it in water. Good basics can be found at Mark Novaks channel or Backyard Ballistics.
Quality content ...... yay Don't do much on my machines lately so get my machining dose watching videos like this one. Enjoy your work and light hearted dry humour. Quality content .... yahtzee
Really enjoyed that. I really like the brightness of your new shop. Would be a bit nicer work environment I think... as I get older I find lighting matters now.
Very nice, looks great. Before the end I was thinking that cold blue would be the typical finish for one of these but really liked the shiny finish, so I was glad you ran out of blue. My cheap knurling tool has a knurled adjustment wheel, which has a pair of flats at the top too. Maybe an option? Also, I think John Conner would appreciate the heads-up.
Fun fact: it's perfect safe to use calipers to mark, but only if you *don't* have an electronic lead screw. There, now those 50 people can be even *more* mad. (We all know that it was the same 50 people in both cases.)
Nice knurler! Seeing it assembled, I can't help to feel like it wasn't super-necessary to make the nut-parts on the lead screw real halves. Just a bit of flatness on the top one would do nicely.
I watched this series with great interest to see you use it and if you had the same trouble I do with mine, not enough ooph to turn the knob. My thought is you might try this: set up the same to get the knurlers in contact with the part. Then back out the cross slide, turn the knob down to the desired “depth” for the entire knurl and then drive the cross slide back into the work while turning. It’s kind of like a combo of bump knurling with the scissor tool. I don’t know if it will work and can’t try it because I’m 3000 miles from my shop. Just a thought.
I always just moved off in X, adjusted the tension by hand and then moved back to centerline. It's much quicker and easier to get done. Just make sure to only move off just enough to crank a bit tighter. If you move too much you'll loose your tracking.
Thank you Quinn for an extremely interesting video: process and operations order, analysis of faults, authenticity in your review of quality and performance of the tool. I am a big fan of your channel for both technical and entertainment value and thank you for earlier referencing a fellow Australian in a previous video, Mark Presling, who I also follow with avid interest.
one possible solution for the spring shoulders would be to make the shoulders in the same arrangement as the clamping half round nut thing but with them sliding against the flat side of the part instead of pushing against the nut thing. One problem with this solution might be corrosion and wear since the brass and steel are rubbing against each other.
As others have mentioned, taking a good heavy depth gives the knurling wheels a better chance to track correctly. This also minimizes work hardening and flaking.
Reamers make slightly larger if you use oil as coolant. With water, the bore becomes slightly smaller. A precise reamer can have a moving fit with oil and a press fit with water on the same pin.
@@randyshoquist7726 For aluminum you can try denatured alcohol intead of water. Alcohol also improves the surface finish of aluminum compared to emulsion or oil.
All comments are good for the algorithm thing Quinn! You should just ignore the repetitive comments, the repetitive comments, the repetitive comments 😆 Andy
Replace the thumbscrew…which does look very nice btw… with a female lever clamp…works a treat..👍 I have a UK..Jones & Shipman version to which I’ve added a lever clamp…much easier to use, and has a much better feel when applying pressure..😉
Hi Quinn very sensible method of threading towards the tailstock when hangout is long and diameter is small. Great rigidity. Great watching you build it but I'm not converted I'm still old school knurling heaps of gorilla pressure on cross slide with a 2 wheel Lock (Australian brand) Thanks again keep up the 50 people comments.....funny.
I envy you reverse thread cutting, my 48 Logan has a threaded spindle. Funny, I've got many of the same kit tools, like that knurling tool! Thanks for sharing all your minor pains.
My Raglan does too. Pretty sure I could get away with threading smaller parts this way but I haven't had the courage to try it! One day I'll build my own ELS, with a configurable electronic stop linked to the DRO. That'll provide a pucker-free way to thread to a shoulder in the normal direction.
On my similar knurling tool the adjustment knob measures 50 mm! I guess brass stock of that dimension would make the kit less profitable. It seems OK to reverse the feed direction back and forth, as long as you don't switch the rotation. I did that once and got each pyramid cut in half. I don't remember if you have mentioned this at some point, but I have learned that the circumference of the stock should be a multiple of the knurl dimension or slightly above. If not, it is safest to turn it down a little before knurling. On soft materials it is probably enough to start directly with a hard bite of the wheels. Ex. Knurl dimension is 0.7 mm and the piece diameter 20 mm, circumference approx. 62.83 mm, which amounts to approx. 89.76 "knurl periods" . The nearest knurl multiple less than that is 89 which corresponds to the diameter 19.83. So the diameter should be reduced to 19.83-19.9 before knurling.
A pretty good trick to get the knurl looking amazing is to just kiss the knurl after you're done forming it with a nice sharp cutting tool you know to leave a nice finish.
Odd leg dividers, electronic lead screw. You didn't menion the one of us that would comment on both 🙂 Very nice job as always and big thanks for the content. I'd be tempted to make a larger diameter adjusting knob to see if you could get enought torque on it by hand?
Thanks for that wonderful three parter! This was one of my favorites and when I need a knurler for my home shop I'll look into this kit. I do want to say, You did cover "electronic leadscrew" by saying it, but you didn't actually say if it'll be a future project or not. I'd like to see that.
Hello Quinn, if you modify the two brass pieces holding the spring to have a convex shape and the inside of the arms to have a concave shape, they will roll around smoothly and because the arms are parallel internally the brass that is inline with the smaller round will fit between the arms. I am sure you will find a way to mill this convex shape on the brass pieces plus keeping your standard smaller round above it. Once the convex and concave shapes are mated together they won't bind because you already have the smaller round between the two arms. Just an idea to help them run smoothly. Great videos, keep doing what you love. All the best from Australia, cheers. Wylie ✌
One of the cool things about the ELS is that you're one stepper motor and one old PC away (since you already have one stepper and the spindle rotary encoder installed) from cutting any kind of thread - arbitrary pitch, arbitrary taper, plus it can do "constant area" cut and use predominantly one side of the cutter. One can argue that mounting the stepper for the cross-slide takes approximately the same, or even less time than installing the gears for manual threading.
Regarding rounded corners as opposed to square because of stress, I'm reminded of a service call I did once. I forget the exact make and model, but it was a large color printer that used SOLID inks (it had about 20 heaters in the thing). While looking for the problem, I saw a fairly large assembly that would "jump" when the thing was trying to go through it's initialization sequence. Looking a little further, I realized that the supporting structure of this assembly, which had a lot of gears and stuff on it, had broken, in exactly one of those square corners. And of course, the part in question being a component of the frame for the thing, was not available for the repair. You'd think that the mechanical engineers at this large corporation that put this thing out would know better...
I find that my cheap ER collets are pretty good if the stock goes all the way through the collet. If the part is only held at the end, I have tap it in as you showed. I'm reluctant to invest in good collets because I don't know if this behavior is inherent of the ER design or if it is due to the cheapness of my collets...
I really enjoyed this build. Thank you! "The quality of the knurl wheels": Rather than build I have now purchased (and returned) 3 different knurling tools in hopes of finding one that suits me. Every one has had wheels that are not drilled properly in the center. I've had wheels from .003" off center to as much as .020" off center. My latest tool seems pretty good as far as the tool goes and given the cost (about $40) but the wheels are still way out of round. I purchased one tool like the original Blondihacks has and it was absolutely worthless. It was made in India and the center pivot bolt had .016" clearance in the holes. It was just plain sloppy. I should have known better, I've never had anything made in India that was much good.
In another video that I just watched he used a Harbor Freight set to do his marking. Having dealt with the abysmal battery life of those, I can understand his choice!
On my knurler, similar style and size as yours, there are 2 spanner flats on the adjusting nut. Not full height on the nut but on the top half of the nut. Might be a fix for yours! Cheers.
It's a nice tool, light bulb moment on the knurl wheel alignment now I know why sometimes my knurls look odd. Also don't tappy tap the stock on collet, try using a bump tool / bearing to align. There's a video on my channel showing how I normally do it on my ER40 collet chuck if you're curious. Cheers.
As other people already pointed out, the wheel was double tracking, the alignment had nothing to do with it. There's no alignment needed between the wheels.
(I refuse to apologize for any of the following fanfic. But I probably should.) Quinn: "Electronic leadscrew electronic leadscrew electronic leadscrew" *This Old Tony appears with a noise like 100,000 people saying "whop"* Tony: "Okay, where's the mill we're converting to CNC? Oh, shoot, I had my lathe set to on-call. Justasec." *Tony disappears with a noise like 100,000 people saying "foop"* * Tony reappears with a noise like 100,000 people saying "whop"* Tony: "Okay, fixed that. Almost left it on time machine; that coulda been bad. I've got just the guy for a quick little thread cutting machine. Here we go: Hand filing hand filing hand filing." *Amid ominous whistling, Tom Lipton appears wearing cowboy boots, a Stetson, and a very flashy Starrett belt buckle* Tom: "Howdy, partner! Life in the sticks is going mighty fine! What did you need slapped together? … Oh, you need a real one, mine was dogmeat. And on a mill. What was Tony thinking?" *Tom smirks* Tom: "I know who you want for this one." *Tom's smirk grows bigger, as his eyes roll ever so slightly* Tom: "FDM FDM FDM" *Tom disappears, and Clough42 appears, holding a precarious stack of spools* James: "Okay, where's the printer we need to get stronger parts out of? Oh, wait, a leadscrew thing? Okay, gimme a minute. Gee Zero Ee Zero." *James disappears, leaving behind a birdsnest of nylon strands, then reappears holding a cardboard box and a barbell plate(?)* James: "Let's do this thing."
I wonder if a wing nut for tightening the knurling wheels would work fine by hand. In general, I go with what a bazillion people are saying below, a combined knurled and hex or flat nut.
Hi Quinn. Re-ran video a couple times. I caught the 100 rpm but what about feed rate? I'm trying to picture what effect different feed rates have on the finished product. What am I missing? Keep those videos coming! I love em!
I'm totally on board if you ever do merch that says "Chamfers are what separates us from the animals."
Or "we'll start with facing, as is tradition"
@@keithyinger3326 Or, "I'll say it now, so I won't have to read it 50 times in the comments".
With diagrams of a finished part made by an animal but without chamfers
@@joshclark44 a line art beaver holding a piece with notably sharp edges
Yes!! I so loved when she said that!
An interesting option would be to remake the adjustment knob with a hex on the top so you could use a wrench for the final oomph
@@arghgrmbl I thought about that idea for a minute too, then came to the conclusion that wrench flats on a thumb wheel would be less than ideal. I like the hex idea since it allows the use of a boxed end wrench too.
Or make a larger diameter thumbscrew, would also give more oomph. :D
I was thinking the same thing. And since it would be turned by a wrench, it will last longer if made out of steel
I'm not sure I've ever tightened a scissor knurl with just my fingers. I think I would lean toward making a nice looking nut, maybe a little shoulder at the bottom and some generous chamfers.
@@aciid5899 That's what I thought of. As someone who's made replacement knobs for telescope focusers, I've been amazed at not just how larger knobs make fine adjustments easier (the main reason for making the knobs larger), but also, how they make even heavily-loaded focusers -- say, with cameras attached -- so much easier. I think even a seemingly small increase in the size of the brass knob might give the needed extra 'oomph'. Leverage has always seemed a bit like magic to me!
For "oomph" try moving the cross slide back a bit, easily snugging up the knob, and advancing the cross slide until the axles are again directly above and below the axis of the part. Big time oomph with very little cross pressure on the part. If you don't move it back too far, the ridges will not completely disengage with the already formed grooves and thus will not double track.
The damage to the pyramids is frequently caused by chips broken off during the forming process getting caught between the wheels and the part. A thorough flood of high-pressure lubricant (not cutting oil; this is a forming process remember) can help to flush away chips.
Yay!! It's Blondihacks time!!!
I cannot express just how invaluable your content is. You have such an expertly crafted blend of humor and technical information that I can't even put into words. I'm simultaneously laughing my ass off while also feeling overwhelmed with information (in a good way).
I really do like the part of the project where you can use the project to finish itself. It's like a level of self-awareness :D
Very meta.
But, hopefully not SkyNet levels of self-awareness....
Quinn... you should get yourself a vernier scribing tool. I got one for work (sheetmetal and stainless fabricator) because it was cheap. Soon after got another one for home and its had the most use on the lathe.
I really like this project thanks. I was just looking at the Eagle Rock knurling tool but its over 300 bucks and I love making stuff so Im going to give this kit a shot.
Nothing nets niftier than gnarly new knurling!
Knurl everything!
@7:00, sometimes the A-B-C knob can be used to slow down the feed rate without messing with the change gears. I know that you know; just mentioning it for anyone that hasn't noticed yet.
@21:23 A pass with a cutting tool or a touch with a file will take the irregular tops off and leave very regular flat topped diamonds.
@22:07 Boeshield T-9 keeps all of my bare cast iron from rusting on the hot, humid Texas Gulf Coast. My home is just 5-6 miles from salt water and it protects my woodworking and metal working tools very well. Noticed a mini-split up in the corner there in your shop. Awesome!
I think I would spin up a new thumb wheel, and add a hex head to it for when you need to crank on the FT LBS.
I came to the comments to say the same thing 🙂👍
I enjoy and learn from each of your videos. Thank you! PS - I find Yahtzee amusing but I prefer "such sweet sorrow".
It's definitely a gnarly knurl
Great series, many thanks! Another option for the adjustment wheel would be to cross-drill it to allow the use of a tommy-bar for leverage.
That adjustment nut knurling conundrum reminds me a bit of how the first thing you do with a ball turning tool is a ball end for the ball turning tool handle.
To show how old the paradox is, I've heard it as "A blacksmith needs a set of tongs to handle the metal to forge a set of tongs"
Awesome! Good job.
As much as I love machining, I must say, It's the comedy and sarcasm that brings me back 🤣
Maybe you should try rust-blueing. It's not as lightning fast as cold blue, but can be done with common household chemistry.
Basically just rust your part with an acid and salt (common vinegar works) and then boil it in water.
Good basics can be found at Mark Novaks channel or Backyard Ballistics.
Very nice build Quinn. The more that I see it, the more I like that little step detail you added on the shank.
Quality content ...... yay
Don't do much on my machines lately so get my machining dose watching videos like this one.
Enjoy your work and light hearted dry humour.
Quality content .... yahtzee
Really enjoyed that. I really like the brightness of your new shop. Would be a bit nicer work environment I think... as I get older I find lighting matters now.
Very good job young lady ! I Enjoyed this one very much .
That was fun! I don't know how you can resist knurling everything with your new knurler. [it was easier to type that than it was to say it aloud]
Nice series as usual. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
0:40 That is EXACTLY the kind of content I'm here for! 😄
Very nice, looks great. Before the end I was thinking that cold blue would be the typical finish for one of these but really liked the shiny finish, so I was glad you ran out of blue. My cheap knurling tool has a knurled adjustment wheel, which has a pair of flats at the top too. Maybe an option?
Also, I think John Conner would appreciate the heads-up.
Nice build Quinn. I'll have to add that to the 'to build' pile.
I never fail to learn something to put into practice in my own shop. Great project well presented.
Lots of room in Quinn's new shop ... enough for a victory dance?
Fun fact: it's perfect safe to use calipers to mark, but only if you *don't* have an electronic lead screw.
There, now those 50 people can be even *more* mad. (We all know that it was the same 50 people in both cases.)
Keep on rocking on!
Shiny video series Quinn! I enjoyed it!
Nice knurler!
Seeing it assembled, I can't help to feel like it wasn't super-necessary to make the nut-parts on the lead screw real halves. Just a bit of flatness on the top one would do nicely.
That was a knurltastic series. Thank you. 👏👏👍😀
I watched this series with great interest to see you use it and if you had the same trouble I do with mine, not enough ooph to turn the knob. My thought is you might try this: set up the same to get the knurlers in contact with the part. Then back out the cross slide, turn the knob down to the desired “depth” for the entire knurl and then drive the cross slide back into the work while turning. It’s kind of like a combo of bump knurling with the scissor tool. I don’t know if it will work and can’t try it because I’m 3000 miles from my shop. Just a thought.
I've done that with sucess as long as the part is large enough to not bend.
I always just moved off in X, adjusted the tension by hand and then moved back to centerline. It's much quicker and easier to get done. Just make sure to only move off just enough to crank a bit tighter. If you move too much you'll loose your tracking.
Thank you Quinn for an extremely interesting video: process and operations order, analysis of faults, authenticity in your review of quality and performance of the tool. I am a big fan of your channel for both technical and entertainment value and thank you for earlier referencing a fellow Australian in a previous video, Mark Presling, who I also follow with avid interest.
one possible solution for the spring shoulders would be to make the shoulders in the same arrangement as the clamping half round nut thing but with them sliding against the flat side of the part instead of pushing against the nut thing. One problem with this solution might be corrosion and wear since the brass and steel are rubbing against each other.
As others have mentioned, taking a good heavy depth gives the knurling wheels a better chance to track correctly. This also minimizes work hardening and flaking.
Reamers make slightly larger if you use oil as coolant. With water, the bore becomes slightly smaller. A precise reamer can have a moving fit with oil and a press fit with water on the same pin.
@@randyshoquist7726 For aluminum you can try denatured alcohol intead of water. Alcohol also improves the surface finish of aluminum compared to emulsion or oil.
@@randyshoquist7726 IP alcohol is also good.
Excellent video ma'am, thank you!
Thanks Blondi
All comments are good for the algorithm thing Quinn! You should just ignore the repetitive comments, the repetitive comments, the repetitive comments 😆
Andy
Spring loaded handle nut to replace the brass knob. It can exert a lot of torque and swivel out of the way.
Replace the thumbscrew…which does look very nice btw… with a female lever clamp…works a treat..👍
I have a UK..Jones & Shipman version to which I’ve added a lever clamp…much easier to use, and has a much better feel when applying pressure..😉
Hi Quinn very sensible method of threading towards the tailstock when hangout is long and diameter is small. Great rigidity. Great watching you build it but I'm not converted I'm still old school knurling heaps of gorilla pressure on cross slide with a 2 wheel Lock (Australian brand) Thanks again keep up the 50 people comments.....funny.
Interesting to watch your build vs. Adam Savage's recent build of a knurler. Great videos.
I envy you reverse thread cutting, my 48 Logan has a threaded spindle. Funny, I've got many of the same kit tools, like that knurling tool! Thanks for sharing all your minor pains.
My Raglan does too. Pretty sure I could get away with threading smaller parts this way but I haven't had the courage to try it! One day I'll build my own ELS, with a configurable electronic stop linked to the DRO. That'll provide a pucker-free way to thread to a shoulder in the normal direction.
Thanks Quinn
Loved this project.
I’ll probably go and buy one of these for myself to build to test my skills and hopefully learn from it
Great Videos Quinn. Thanks for showing how it’s done. The Knuler really turned out nice.👍❤️
This is definitively my Saturday highlight! Thanks!
That was a great build to watch!
Great job looks like a very useful tool Cheers
I watched all 3 pt of this build you did a great job, we enjoy watching your videos … have a great day
Hi Quinn, great job once again thank you.
On my similar knurling tool the adjustment knob measures 50 mm! I guess brass stock of that dimension would make the kit less profitable. It seems OK to reverse the feed direction back and forth, as long as you don't switch the rotation. I did that once and got each pyramid cut in half. I don't remember if you have mentioned this at some point, but I have learned that the circumference of the stock should be a multiple of the knurl dimension or slightly above. If not, it is safest to turn it down a little before knurling. On soft materials it is probably enough to start directly with a hard bite of the wheels. Ex. Knurl dimension is 0.7 mm and the piece diameter 20 mm, circumference approx. 62.83 mm, which amounts to approx. 89.76 "knurl periods" . The nearest knurl multiple less than that is 89 which corresponds to the diameter 19.83. So the diameter should be reduced to 19.83-19.9 before knurling.
Absolutely great results. That is a very nice knurling tool and will no doubt last you the rest of your life. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
I bought the kit right after you published the first video, and it just arrived! Glad I have a such a great guide to follow for it.
A pretty good trick to get the knurl looking amazing is to just kiss the knurl after you're done forming it with a nice sharp cutting tool you know to leave a nice finish.
Odd leg dividers, electronic lead screw. You didn't menion the one of us that would comment on both 🙂 Very nice job as always and big thanks for the content. I'd be tempted to make a larger diameter adjusting knob to see if you could get enought torque on it by hand?
Thanks for that wonderful three parter! This was one of my favorites and when I need a knurler for my home shop I'll look into this kit.
I do want to say, You did cover "electronic leadscrew" by saying it, but you didn't actually say if it'll be a future project or not. I'd like to see that.
Hello Quinn, if you modify the two brass pieces holding the spring to have a convex shape and the inside of the arms to have a concave shape, they will roll around smoothly and because the arms are parallel internally the brass that is inline with the smaller round will fit between the arms. I am sure you will find a way to mill this convex shape on the brass pieces plus keeping your standard smaller round above it. Once the convex and concave shapes are mated together they won't bind because you already have the smaller round between the two arms. Just an idea to help them run smoothly. Great videos, keep doing what you love.
All the best from Australia, cheers.
Wylie ✌
"There's no fate but what we make for ourselves". 😉 👍
Excellent work as always @Blondihacks !
One of the cool things about the ELS is that you're one stepper motor and one old PC away (since you already have one stepper and the spindle rotary encoder installed) from cutting any kind of thread - arbitrary pitch, arbitrary taper, plus it can do "constant area" cut and use predominantly one side of the cutter. One can argue that mounting the stepper for the cross-slide takes approximately the same, or even less time than installing the gears for manual threading.
Really neat.
This was very interesting to watch come together.
Skynet and John Connor couldn’t be happier, as am I *knurling away*
Regarding rounded corners as opposed to square because of stress, I'm reminded of a service call I did once. I forget the exact make and model, but it was a large color printer that used SOLID inks (it had about 20 heaters in the thing). While looking for the problem, I saw a fairly large assembly that would "jump" when the thing was trying to go through it's initialization sequence. Looking a little further, I realized that the supporting structure of this assembly, which had a lot of gears and stuff on it, had broken, in exactly one of those square corners. And of course, the part in question being a component of the frame for the thing, was not available for the repair. You'd think that the mechanical engineers at this large corporation that put this thing out would know better...
Just bought some Boeshield for my bench planes. Let's see how it works!
I find that my cheap ER collets are pretty good if the stock goes all the way through the collet. If the part is only held at the end, I have tap it in as you showed. I'm reluctant to invest in good collets because I don't know if this behavior is inherent of the ER design or if it is due to the cheapness of my collets...
Knurl another thumb screw (brass may not be up to the task), then mill 6 flats a bit at the top to accept a wrench. Best of both worlds.
Turned out nicely Quinn.👍👍
Turned out great! 👍👍
Nice build ,one thing i would do is that knurl top knob is like 2x larger ,that small you have some super finger but it came out super ty for shareing
beautiful piece
I really enjoyed this build. Thank you!
"The quality of the knurl wheels": Rather than build I have now purchased (and returned) 3 different knurling tools in hopes of finding one that suits me. Every one has had wheels that are not drilled properly in the center. I've had wheels from .003" off center to as much as .020" off center. My latest tool seems pretty good as far as the tool goes and given the cost (about $40) but the wheels are still way out of round. I purchased one tool like the original Blondihacks has and it was absolutely worthless. It was made in India and the center pivot bolt had .016" clearance in the holes. It was just plain sloppy. I should have known better, I've never had anything made in India that was much good.
I thought i had made a post about how you knurl the knob on the knurling tool on the first vid, but i get to find out now how it works.
Thankyou 👍
I use the calipers for marking all the time. I have a lower cost pair in the shop for this purpose. Great project and work as always.
I hav a mitutoyo with round-tipped nose. Much sturdier than the modern triangle-tipped nose.
In another video that I just watched he used a Harbor Freight set to do his marking. Having dealt with the abysmal battery life of those, I can understand his choice!
Knurling tool, manufacturer thyself!
Maybe a slightly larger diameter scalloped adjustment knob would work. More torque with hand pressure and no need to look for the wrench.
On my knurler, similar style and size as yours, there are 2 spanner flats on the adjusting nut. Not full height on the nut but on the top half of the nut. Might be a fix for yours! Cheers.
I made a similar tool years ago. My knob is about 40mm diameter and is easy to turn to depth with fingers.
It's a nice tool, light bulb moment on the knurl wheel alignment now I know why sometimes my knurls look odd. Also don't tappy tap the stock on collet, try using a bump tool / bearing to align. There's a video on my channel showing how I normally do it on my ER40 collet chuck if you're curious. Cheers.
As other people already pointed out, the wheel was double tracking, the alignment had nothing to do with it. There's no alignment needed between the wheels.
Nice work. I stop before the peak and leave the 4 points (added grip + it kinda hides any little out of squareness or misalignment of the wheels).
(I refuse to apologize for any of the following fanfic. But I probably should.)
Quinn: "Electronic leadscrew electronic leadscrew electronic leadscrew"
*This Old Tony appears with a noise like 100,000 people saying "whop"*
Tony: "Okay, where's the mill we're converting to CNC? Oh, shoot, I had my lathe set to on-call. Justasec."
*Tony disappears with a noise like 100,000 people saying "foop"*
* Tony reappears with a noise like 100,000 people saying "whop"*
Tony: "Okay, fixed that. Almost left it on time machine; that coulda been bad. I've got just the guy for a quick little thread cutting machine. Here we go: Hand filing hand filing hand filing."
*Amid ominous whistling, Tom Lipton appears wearing cowboy boots, a Stetson, and a very flashy Starrett belt buckle*
Tom: "Howdy, partner! Life in the sticks is going mighty fine! What did you need slapped together? … Oh, you need a real one, mine was dogmeat. And on a mill. What was Tony thinking?"
*Tom smirks*
Tom: "I know who you want for this one."
*Tom's smirk grows bigger, as his eyes roll ever so slightly*
Tom: "FDM FDM FDM"
*Tom disappears, and Clough42 appears, holding a precarious stack of spools*
James: "Okay, where's the printer we need to get stronger parts out of? Oh, wait, a leadscrew thing? Okay, gimme a minute. Gee Zero Ee Zero."
*James disappears, leaving behind a birdsnest of nylon strands, then reappears holding a cardboard box and a barbell plate(?)*
James: "Let's do this thing."
Boeshield is great! I prefer the non-aerosol because the spray tends to waste product and you're paying for the propellant too.
Quinn, we want to see a video remaking the adjustment knob with a hex on the top for a wrench
I wonder if a wing nut for tightening the knurling wheels would work fine by hand. In general, I go with what a bazillion people are saying below, a combined knurled and hex or flat nut.
I second the wingnut suggestion
13:44 that‘s exactly my kind of humor. I was wondering since the beginning of this series if the kit would dare to ask for a knurled part.
I think we should wait for This Old Tony to release a "How To Time Travel In The Home Shop" before attempting to warn Mr. Connor.
GREAT JOB
Hi Quinn. Re-ran video a couple times. I caught the 100 rpm but what about feed rate? I'm trying to picture what effect different feed rates have on the finished product. What am I missing? Keep those videos coming! I love em!
I like it great job I will definitely be ordering one
How about a video tuning up/fixing the cheap scissor knurler?
Very nice.
As always, top notch work and instruction. For the thumbwheel, maybe a larger star shaped knob?
Just mill a little flat on the knurling adjustment wheel. If it is big enough, make it the same size as the compound nut.