C10 Project: Bodyworking the Hood. Stripping, Priming, Blocking
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- Trying to get this hood straightened out. Not the easiest task but hopefully we will get there. #c10, #squarebody, #stoutcustom
*** 21mm Random Orbital Polisher/Sander: amzn.to/3Y1ZvXW
*** 80grit sanding disc: amzn.to/3YcZHUg
Music Credit: Hot Rod Rebels by The Best Of's and Different Times by Jett Everett
Your videos are amazingly informative.
Thank you and thanks for watching!
I have to get an electric DA. My compressor has a difficult time keeping up with my pneumatic one. I have a nice DeWalt soft start buffer polisher with variable speed from 800 to around 3500 RPM. It has the quick disconnect system for the pads. I wonder if it would do the same thing. I have to find a new hood. Mine was slightly oil canning on both sides near the cab. It was nearly perfect and I should’ve left well enough alone, but I didn’t. Wound up creating a giant pimple by over stretching when I was really trying to shrink the steel. Yeah, what a mess. I tried a torch and quenching, cutting and welding, but I think it’s finished. I wonder if I could cut out the bad area that’s about 12-14 inches in diameter and stitch in new metal. Other than the part I destroyed, the hood was perfect.
Great lesson again. It’s taken me a long time to figure this seemingly simple process of addressing the block properly. Flat doesn’t mean straight and rarely is any part of a panel straight. I wasn’t taking the visual appearance into account. I was just holding the block flat and sanding.
You actually showed near the end exactly what my problem was and yes it was blasted. I wish I would have simply stuck a piece of sound deadening membrane under the soft spots. That would have fixed it properly done. Great video!
The da (dual action) sander not only rotates but has an off center random rotation as well. You will sometimes see the curly cues or pig tail scratches it makes when it sands. Most buffers simply rotate so they act more as a grinder. There are some random orbital buffers that are closer to the action of a da. They are usually more aggressive and difficult to control. There are some automotive style electric da’s on the market now that are really nice but come with a high price. Probably still cheaper than upgrading your compressor.
Something I haven’t tried but plan to on my next warped hood is a shrinking disc. Check out some of the videos on RUclips about it. Looks pretty amazing. I would not attempt to cut out a piece and weld in a new one. The welding is going to warp it even more. Try the shrinking disc instead.
Great video!
Thanks Mike and thanks for watching!
Love watching your videos. Makes me go outside and stop slacking lol
Get-R-done! Lol
👍
😂Jim, This video goes into my video file for quick reference. It is a keeper and thanks for the info. Including the pencil as many will grab a "Sharpie". The alcohol based ink will telegraph thru more layers of high build, primer-sealer and base coat color. Don't chance it. Get into your kids backpack for a #2 pencil. After all, you bought them!
I bought the 20-21mm sander-polisher for paint removal but I had productive word with a 20's something kid and he did not know about regular DA's verses a finishing DA (1/4" orbital action regular to a finishing sander 3/16"). HF sells them but so does Hutchinson.
And chemical paint removal for non-production projects; Coopers Strip Club two different items, two different purposes, videos on RUclips and it works. It all comes down to cost and time. I won't bring it up again.
DK. Thanks!
It’s crazy how much of a difference the stroke makes on a sander. Thanks for watching Dean!
Good info Jim. Those squarebody hoods are a pain to bodywork. I know you’re not doing a step by step vid but something to point out to beginners is make sure to blow off the surface and wipe with a dry rag really well before wiping body filler.
Oh and to keep hands off of bare metal so no oils from your skin contaminants and rust metal prior to primer or filler.
Some good points Robert. I’ll try to throw that in at some point. Lots of small but important steps to this stuff for sure
👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Thanks CR!
thanks for sharing some of your knowledge and wisdom. this is the stuff i want to learn.
Glad to share it and its good to know it helps. Thanks for watching as always!
Looking good Jim I will email you new photos of the d150 soon. Your making real progress
Trying to keep foreword momentum. Cool, I’d like to see the progress
great video and great explanation of your method
Thanks Bud
Hey, first I want to say I really enjoy your videos. Lots of great tips. I'd never have thought about the hood sitting on one stand getting bowed. I'm used to doing epoxy over a large bare metal area, does the vp2050 and sealer offer good corrosion protection?
The VP 2050 is in the PPG vibrance line. It states that it offers excellent adhesion and corrosion protection. It has worked really well for me. I have always used epoxy over bare steel as well and usually put a high build urethane over it. The VP2050 is an epoxy based high build so you get the direct to metal properties and high film build in a single product. It has also taken the place of spray poly that I used at one time. The tech sheet states that it can go over bare steel when sanded with 80 or 180 but I prefer the larger 80 grit scratch. Give it a shot, I think you will like it. Thanks for watching!
@@StoutCustom There's an English Color close that's the PPG dealer. I'll definitely give it a try as soon I I find my next / last project. Just need to convince the lady down the road to sell me her 87 short bed. Lol
@@davidl2736 lol. Good luck. Hope it works out for you
Great video! Man,you are really good at explaining this stuff in a way even I can understand and that is saying something lol Thanks a lot
Haha. Thanks Jim and thanks for watching!
in this episode, introducing....... the hood master 😤
Lol
Hello Jim….why didn’t use epoxy primer as mentioned… just curious….. also do you think a dewalt buffer would work…as a stripper ?
The VP 2050 is epoxy based. That’s what gives it the direct to metal ability. It might be considered a hybrid. Where as we used to prime first with epoxy then follow that with a high build urethane, the VP 2050 takes the place of both. As far as using a regular buffer to strip, it does work but not as well as the orbital polisher. In my experience it’s a slow process with a regular buffer. It doesn’t remove paint very fast because of the small contact area since you have to tilt it just like buffing. Then once you get to the metal it is too aggressive on the metal, (especially sharp body lines) since it’s really just a big grinder now. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching!
Thanks for your response!! Great information as I am soon to start my build….I really enjoy watching and very informative!!
@@seeunow44 you’re welcome and good luck with your project!
What are your thoughts about the acrylic blocks or big kid blocks?
I’m sure they work. I may try to pick up some and see how I like them. I don’t think they are must have but might change my mind once I use them. Overall the more choices you have when you reach into your box to grab something to “fit” what you are doing, the better off you are.
How many hours would you say it took you to strip the hood this way ?
Looking back at my footage, it was done in 2 hours with me stopping to explain stuff. Thanks for watching!
I'm thinking about using vp 2050 on my next truck because I heard it stops shrinking after about 3 days I normally use epoxy then high build I just don't like having to wait 2 or 3 weeks for the high build to fully shrink.
How long do you give 2050 and does it matter how many coats you use ?
The epoxy and high build is how I did it before as well. Always worried about shrinkage. The VP2050 seems to do a good job of locking everything down and not keep moving/shrinking down the road. As long as it’s in a warm environment about 3 or 4 days seems to be good. Three to four coats is what they recommend and is plenty. It builds very well.
What type of disc did you use in the first step to remove the paint? I am restoring a square body year 81 and I have another 79 I love that type of truck greetings and your work is excellent
I used 80 grit. It strips quick and leaves it ready for epoxy when your done. Thank you and thanks for watching!
Great informative content as usual, thank you for the instruction. Wondering if I can get your opinion on the topic of compressed shop air systems. I have the opportunity to buy a used refrigerant air dryer for $200 cad but am not sure of how critical it is for home use. I have a 2 stage 80 gal compressor and will be starting the body work process on my project truck within the year. I am unsure if this is a necessity or if I can get away with my small desiccant filter setup I currently have? Any feedback is greatly appreciated. Keep up the good work!
Hey Dain. For home shop use I don’t think a refrigerant dryer is a necessity. Some type of moisture filter/trap is needed though. I have used a Devilbis DAD 500 set up for years with no refrigerant dryer and had great results. Even with a dryer a dad500 system or something similar is needed at the point of use for painting and such. If you haven’t had any issues using your desiccant set up you probably don’t need the dryer. If you are in a high humidity area and have occasional water in the lines it may help. I’m not really sold on refrigerant dryers overall. They may be a necessity in a high air use shop but I have seen moisture issues even when the dryers are used. The answer to still having a moisture problem although using a dryer has been to install a DAD500 or similar product at the point of use. Hope this makes sense and thanks for watching!