Excellent video, really good to see a real life comparison. I've used Eastwood Rust Encapsulator quite extensively in the last year or two. i've found that sticks like crazy to not just rusty surfaces and clean steel but other things as well. I accidentally got some on a newly re-chromed surface. Once it had cured it was very difficult to remove! great stuff but getting the tin open when you first get it can be a challenge. Tip, if youre not planning to use a lot in one go... Get a bunch of smallish clean jam... sorry, I'm English, I mean clean jelly jars with lids. As soon as you open the tin, stir thoroughly then fill the jars right up near to the top. Make sure no paint is on the part of the jar that comes in contact with the lid otherwise you'll never get the lid off again. Then tightly screw the lids on. Number them on the top 1, 2, 3 and 4 with a sharpie. You then only open and use one jar at a time, starting with number 1. This stuff starts to cure as soon as the air gets to it but doig this means you have a usable stock of it that will last much longer than if you just leave it in the tin. The original tin lid doesn't re-seal very well, espcially if its been off a few times. Always clean the top of the jar with celulose thinners and a cloth before replacing the jar lid. You can also cut a circle from a plastic bag to sit on the top of the paint inside the closed jars to keep it longer still.
It's almost a year from the end of your first test. Looking for that update in a few days. I just POR-15'd (a new verb) my Silverado's frame tube (thanks GM for putting a piece of the frame in a trough across the gas tank so that it absorbs moisture and rusts readily), so it's good to see what my future holds.
This is amazing. Other videos never show longevity tests. They only show how good the finished product looks like and I'm like _Okay, what's it gonna look like in a few years?_
THANK YOU! EXCELLENT VIDEO, THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME!!! I've been looking for a product to re-coat the galvanized roof of my tool trailer that is rusting a lot. I found it now!
I've watched all your rust videos & they have been so helpful! Especially this one cuz was trying to decide between por-15 & Eastwood platinum. Going with Eastwood for my drip rail repair. Thank you! (Also subbed!)
Thanks for the tests ,I have used por 15 since it came out.The only problem is that if you don't use it all it will skin over and become hard you will have to chip it off to get to the remaining product .I've also used ceran wrap to try and keep the moisture out of the can no luck!
I think the same thing that makes por15 so hard can also be it's downfall when used in automotive application.The flex makes it crack.I enjoyed your video I will probably be using the the eastwood platinum on rusty windshield channel on my impala.
Have you ever used either Loctite's Rust Extend Neutralizer or Permatex's Rust Converter? I'm currently protecting some semi-rusted components of my car's undercarriage, and the Loctite stuff says: 1) Don't get it on bare metal as it may CAUSE rust... 2) Don't put over paint... Now, what I'm dealing with are one of 2 situations: 1) Component with no paint, all surface rust, but some scattered bits of fresh metal showing where I spent 1 second too long abrading away the rust... 2) Lot's of paint left, but rust showing through all over and likely under the paint just not enough to flake it off... My approach was to strip paint and if I had clean metal just put converter on the rust and paint over the bare metal, and if I had tidbits of clean metal over a 99% rusted piece just put converter on it all and pray it doesn't react weirdly and jeopardize my project. I hope to hear your detailed input. Great video by the way!
What actually still works is red oxide paint/ primer. Then use chassis paint over it. All rust encapsulation finishes are not UV resistant . And too many use it on improperly prepared surfaces. If you can tap the metal and huge chunks fall off it all needs removing. Another tip ( not degassing) is to heat up the metal enough to remove moisture .
Love your channel. But you should have bolted steel to bottom of your vehicle for a real test. Also see Project Farm Test, where he chips it, pressure washes it, etc., however, he doesn't do the year and 2 year test which is great. Also, using 2x instead of using POR-15 primer and topcoat might also be variable that needs to be explored in another test.
Kbs coatings is like por15 but flexible. I like the Eastwood but it’s silver, and honestly the platinum is not much different then the Eastwood plus. All of these coatings work great as long as you prep it properly
I’d be interested to see how these products do over clean bare metal, rusty angled steel like this is very subjective in my opinion because of varying surface rigidity and rust severity / pitting from one end to the other.
funny, you say POR15 was the worst in your first video. POR15 still looks the same in your second video, I say the holes developing on the Por15. The real problem is when water get under these coating.
Quick question mate...can you still open the Eastwood tins after using them as I know with the Bill Hirsch Miracle Paint, if you get any on the rim of the tin and lid it'll seal it tight and you'll never get it open. If you get the eastwood product on the tins edges...say you wiped the paint brush on it, closed the lid and came back a few days later to use it...can you still get the tin lid off? Great channel mate, thanks for the content. G'day from Australia 🇦🇺 too..
apologies, I don't read that many comments especially on product reviews. you know... keyboard commandos... anywho - I have not used the Loctite product, so I cannot comment on how that product reacts with metal or other paints. I have used permatex, and it works really well to convert the rust. you do have to apply a thin coat as it acts kinda like paint and will run if you get it too thick. ***HUGE DISCLAIMER: I am not the manufacturer of any of these products and everything following is my OPINION based on my experience. if you have negative results I cannot be held responsible... that being said... you can apply the Platinum over rusted metal or bare metal - cleaned with a wire brush and a cleaner/degreaser such as Pre-painting Prep - i'm not sure about painting over paint... obviously if you clean the metal of paint and loose rust, the paint will work better and last longer. I don't know how well the Platinum paint will work if you coat it with rust converter first. you would need to contact the manufacturer for that info, as all I have to go off is the instructions on the can and on Eastwood's website, neither of which mention the use of rust converter products. in this particular test (as you probably saw), I cleaned the metal with a wire brush and Pre-painting Prep as per the instructions on the can. no rust converter. and, as you may have seen in the video, the paint held up great! I hope that helps... thanks for watching!!
Excellent video, really good to see a real life comparison. I've used Eastwood Rust Encapsulator quite extensively in the last year or two. i've found that sticks like crazy to not just rusty surfaces and clean steel but other things as well. I accidentally got some on a newly re-chromed surface. Once it had cured it was very difficult to remove! great stuff but getting the tin open when you first get it can be a challenge.
Tip, if youre not planning to use a lot in one go... Get a bunch of smallish clean jam... sorry, I'm English, I mean clean jelly jars with lids. As soon as you open the tin, stir thoroughly then fill the jars right up near to the top. Make sure no paint is on the part of the jar that comes in contact with the lid otherwise you'll never get the lid off again. Then tightly screw the lids on. Number them on the top 1, 2, 3 and 4 with a sharpie. You then only open and use one jar at a time, starting with number 1. This stuff starts to cure as soon as the air gets to it but doig this means you have a usable stock of it that will last much longer than if you just leave it in the tin. The original tin lid doesn't re-seal very well, espcially if its been off a few times. Always clean the top of the jar with celulose thinners and a cloth before replacing the jar lid. You can also cut a circle from a plastic bag to sit on the top of the paint inside the closed jars to keep it longer still.
It's almost a year from the end of your first test. Looking for that update in a few days. I just POR-15'd (a new verb) my Silverado's frame tube (thanks GM for putting a piece of the frame in a trough across the gas tank so that it absorbs moisture and rusts readily), so it's good to see what my future holds.
This is amazing. Other videos never show longevity tests. They only show how good the finished product looks like and I'm like _Okay, what's it gonna look like in a few years?_
THANK YOU! EXCELLENT VIDEO, THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME!!! I've been looking for a product to re-coat the galvanized roof of my tool trailer that is rusting a lot. I found it now!
I've watched all your rust videos & they have been so helpful! Especially this one cuz was trying to decide between por-15 & Eastwood platinum. Going with Eastwood for my drip rail repair. Thank you! (Also subbed!)
Thanks for the tests ,I have used por 15 since it came out.The only problem is that if you don't use it all it will skin over and become hard you will have to chip it off to get to the remaining product .I've also used ceran wrap to try and keep the moisture out of the can no luck!
I think the same thing that makes por15 so hard can also be it's downfall when used in automotive application.The flex makes it crack.I enjoyed your video I will probably be using the the eastwood platinum on rusty windshield channel on my impala.
Have you ever used either Loctite's Rust Extend Neutralizer or Permatex's Rust Converter?
I'm currently protecting some semi-rusted components of my car's undercarriage, and the Loctite stuff says:
1) Don't get it on bare metal as it may CAUSE rust...
2) Don't put over paint...
Now, what I'm dealing with are one of 2 situations:
1) Component with no paint, all surface rust, but some scattered bits of fresh metal showing where I spent 1 second too long abrading away the rust...
2) Lot's of paint left, but rust showing through all over and likely under the paint just not enough to flake it off...
My approach was to strip paint and if I had clean metal just put converter on the rust and paint over the bare metal, and if I had tidbits of clean metal over a 99% rusted piece just put converter on it all and pray it doesn't react weirdly and jeopardize my project.
I hope to hear your detailed input. Great video by the way!
What actually still works is red oxide paint/ primer. Then use chassis paint over it.
All rust encapsulation finishes are not UV resistant .
And too many use it on improperly prepared surfaces. If you can tap the metal and huge chunks fall off it all needs removing.
Another tip ( not degassing) is to heat up the metal enough to remove moisture .
Excellent video and thanks for sharing your science results.
Any new updates on the Eastwood Platinum 2 year review? really on the fence with this product.
You should put a scratch in each of your samples to see how each reacts.
Can't wait to see the results because around here everything more than a few years old starts rusting.I guess I should have kept watching ,!lol!
Great test, thanks for sharing your findings.
Thanks for all the detail and effort you put into this. I’ve immediately subscribed and look forward to checking out your other content. 👍👍😎👍👍
Awesome, thank you!
Love your channel. But you should have bolted steel to bottom of your vehicle for a real test. Also see Project Farm Test, where he chips it, pressure washes it, etc., however, he doesn't do the year and 2 year test which is great. Also, using 2x instead of using POR-15 primer and topcoat might also be variable that needs to be explored in another test.
thanks for video. adding a salt spray periodically would be good
Try the rustoleum 2x flat black primer. I use the stuff like paint but have limited experience with using it for exterior use.
Kbs coatings is like por15 but flexible. I like the Eastwood but it’s silver, and honestly the platinum is not much different then the Eastwood plus. All of these coatings work great as long as you prep it properly
I’d be interested to see how these products do over clean bare metal, rusty angled steel like this is very subjective in my opinion because of varying surface rigidity and rust severity / pitting from one end to the other.
Bolt it to the underside of a vehicle driven all year round.. that will test them..
Totally agree. Then exposed to chipping, salt if used in area, etc. Would be better test. See Project Farm test.
funny, you say POR15 was the worst in your first video. POR15 still looks the same in your second video, I say the holes developing on the Por15. The real problem is when water get under these coating.
always appreciate long term tests like this, got me to sub. Please do a 3, 5, and 10 year.
Central Oregon. Would love to see this test on a frame in the salt paradise of upstate ny.
Quick question mate...can you still open the Eastwood tins after using them as I know with the Bill Hirsch Miracle Paint, if you get any on the rim of the tin and lid it'll seal it tight and you'll never get it open. If you get the eastwood product on the tins edges...say you wiped the paint brush on it, closed the lid and came back a few days later to use it...can you still get the tin lid off? Great channel mate, thanks for the content. G'day from Australia 🇦🇺 too..
Use bloxygen(argon) purge before storage. Drill two holes in lid, seal with tape
Some say to put double layer of plastic grocery bag so u can open it again. Have not done it, but it's what a user recommended.
What's "bone dry"?
😄
Hey it’s been a year can we please get the 2 year results in basically restoring a 2000 jeep xj and trying to get the best product available
there is a "2-year" video for this test on my channel. you can go to my channel and click VIDEOS. it's also in the product testing playlist. THANKS!!!
Good job
Hoping to hear a reply to my previous comment 👍
apologies, I don't read that many comments especially on product reviews. you know... keyboard commandos... anywho - I have not used the Loctite product, so I cannot comment on how that product reacts with metal or other paints. I have used permatex, and it works really well to convert the rust. you do have to apply a thin coat as it acts kinda like paint and will run if you get it too thick.
***HUGE DISCLAIMER: I am not the manufacturer of any of these products and everything following is my OPINION based on my experience. if you have negative results I cannot be held responsible... that being said...
you can apply the Platinum over rusted metal or bare metal - cleaned with a wire brush and a cleaner/degreaser such as Pre-painting Prep - i'm not sure about painting over paint... obviously if you clean the metal of paint and loose rust, the paint will work better and last longer. I don't know how well the Platinum paint will work if you coat it with rust converter first. you would need to contact the manufacturer for that info, as all I have to go off is the instructions on the can and on Eastwood's website, neither of which mention the use of rust converter products. in this particular test (as you probably saw), I cleaned the metal with a wire brush and Pre-painting Prep as per the instructions on the can. no rust converter. and, as you may have seen in the video, the paint held up great!
I hope that helps... thanks for watching!!