Hi Everyone, A new video on an oil change, this time on a 2006 Porsche 997 C4S with the super cool X51 performance pack. This is our friends Dave and Jody's car - you remember their beautiful yellow 2002 Boxster :) We did an oil pull for another Blackstone analysis and Dave will post the results as soon as they come back. I did a few sort of optional steps that you can decide if you want to bother or not. They are to reduce ware on initial startup with the new oil I have all this info in the description, but tools and parts are: The following steps are optional: • Prefilling the oil filter housing half way with oil. • Blackstone Laboratories oil test. • Pulling the fuel pump fuse. The parts used are: • Oil Filter Kit (includes large rubber O-Ring): Hengst E14H D77 (99610722560) or MAHLE goo.gl/yJLkuD • Mobil 1 120760 Synthetic Motor Oil 0W-40, 5 Quart : goo.gl/GECf9i • Case drain plug washer: 900-123-106-30 18X24 (Al) You’ll need: • Filter Cover Socket: 000-721-920-40 • 8mm Hex • Torque Wrench • 10Qts of oil (capacity is ~9Qts) • Blackstone Analysis Kit (optional) Torque Values: • Case Drain Plug: 37 Ft-Lbs • Oil Filter Cover: 19 Ft-Lbs The oil I used (supplied by Dave) was Mobil1 0W-40, but use what is specified by your owners manual. *** UPDATE: I got a message from a very knowledgeable viewer who mentioned the oil level is best checked warm as the oil will expand and it reduces the risk of over-filling. In addition to that, it is best to shoot for one notch from the top and not the top mark on the E-Gauge. I also did some research and for the 997.1, the oil check system tries to take into account the temperature and will control when it will display the oil level. For the 997.2, the oil is checked hot. Hope you enjoy this! Any questions, please leave them below. Thanks! Franny
I enjoyed your Carrera 4S oil change video. I want to keep my 997 2008 Turbo from starting to bring up the oil pressure. Which fuse is the fuel pump fuse? Do you have a Turbo oil change video? Thanks, Kenny H
Dear Heidi and Franny, First off, I wanted to compliment you on the channel and the videos. They are very educational and informative for DIYers such as myself who would like additional tips on properly caring for your car. I've watched almost every video and will start applying some of your techniques to my maintenance procedures. Second, I especially like that you have a particular focus on Porsche - it's one of my all-time favorite car brands. However, I am a vintage Volvo enthusiast and have exclusively driven Volvos for many years, since a car accident in late 2004 (Yes, I was in a Volvo!). I'm sure that you see countless old Volvos in your area out in Colorado. I also like the fact that none of your vehicles are what they call "garage queens," in that you drive all of them whenever you can. I have three Volvos - two 1989 740 GL sedans, and one 2000 V70 station wagon. I purchased all three cars from their original owners, who were all U.S. military. They are some of the best owners to purchase a vehicle from, as you know that they have taken meticulous care of their autos. One of the 740s has well over 300,000 miles on it - 306k, to be exact. I've found over the years that the older RWD Volvos with the "redblock" engines are some of the simplest and easiest vehicles to work on - for example, doing oil changes takes about 20-25 minutes for me (4.5 quarts with filter). And just like you, I use only OEM parts - no exceptions. I don't take shortcuts when maintaining and repairing the Volvos, and I don't cheap out on the parts either. If more folks watched your videos, there would be a lot more older vintage cars still on the road. Just my $.02. Keep up the good work! Best, Paolo Rosales, Alexandria, Virginia
Thanks so much! I had a Saab years ago and just loved it. My sister had an older Volvo and it was a great car! I always love seeing the P1800s at shows ;) Franny
Cool. We are excited for you. Keep us filled in. We are on instagram and twitter and Facebook if you want to post photos once you take the plunge. Are you going towards PDK or Manual?
@@HeidiandFranny ha! Guess what? I got all my stuff ready and then I find out my car has the spin on adapter. That means I had the wrong filter. The wrong wrench. And I certainly couldn’t simply fan out the filter to inspect it. But, I made the whole thing work. I did, however, do your fuel pump fuse trick!
@@frugalera oh no! Why would someone do that? The factory setup works great. Oh well. I suppose you could use a manual can opener and still cut it open, but what a pain. Well, party on I suppose :)
Informative as usual! I have not pulled the fuel pump fuse previously, but will going forward. Thanks for the tip. The "2000 years later " was hilarious.
i like how u explain everey step along the process in a clear and informal english...i like english and mechanics videos..your videos help me both my english and car mechanics skills...i turn on the cc and almost all of the cc its the same u speak thanks to ur clear and calm voice as u work...some other car youtubers mumble or have poor sound microphones
Another great video! You two keep raising your game and are producing some seriously useful (not to mention audibly coherent and visually well-lit). I look forward to seeing the results from Blackstone!
Excellent video. Liked the precaution of fuel pump fuse removal. Bet the OPC doesn't bother with any of these precautions!! My OPC is pretty sloppy...so I do the servicing myself...not simply to save a whole wad of money for very little in return...but to make sure that servicing is done correctly and that paintwork doesn't suffer those annoying scratches and chips from careless contact from tools!
Ah, such a lucky owner. I don't know what it is but this particular body style works for me. Great video as always. Thank you for the information just makes me want one that much more.
Well done, that oil still had some life in to it ( it was still clear at the drainage ) text book servicing Franny specialy like the attention for the porsche know ow (fuse + delay check after ) this was a great one nice flow and narration was perfect Keep up the good work guy s SoulDave
Thank you for a very informative video for those that like to do their own oil changes. IMHO, Porsche didn't get the IMS issue solved until the 997.2 or 2009 model with the complete new engine design. I've talked to many people with 997.1 (i.e. 2005 - 2008) cars that have suffered from IMS failure. Had they took your advice (e.g. examine the oil filters) as well as a few other things (i.e. change oil more regularly) they could have avoided engine failure. I agree the updated bearing in 2006 was more robust and could handle the load better than the previous single row bearing found in the 996 and early 997, but still could fail which required the motor to be completely split to service and repair if the motor could be reconstructed.
Thanks for that! We had an '06 Boxster (did I mention that?) and I did sweat the oil changes a bit. It is difficult to know exactly when Porsche changed over to the non-serviceable bearing by engine numbers. So, the long and short is, as you mentioned, '09 or later if you never want to even consider it, '06-'08 if you are willing to take on a small(er) risk, and earlier if you take the car in and just get it replaced with a rear main seal and new clutch. For all of them, cut open the filter and maybe send the oil out for analysis. Oh, and drive the car! Looks like there are more failures in cars with short trips/low mileage and less on track cars. That's probably because of water and gas in the oil penetrating the seal and washing out the grease in that bearing. Franny
Most of the experts (Flat6Innovations, LN, etc.) say that the bearing and intermediate shaft was updated mid-year in 2005 for the 997. And so, if you have a 2005 997, then it's possible you have newer bearing, but you can't be 100% sure without examining the outer IMS flange. If you have a 2006 - 2008 997, you definitely have the updated shaft and the larger non-serviceable single row bearing. The larger single row bearing in the 997 has proven to be superior to the older 6204 single bearing found mostly in the 2000 - 2005 996 cars, but it still can fail. Therefore, it's important that people that own the 2006 - 2008 997 cars, that although you have a better bearing, it's still smart to take preventive measures (changing the oil every 5000 miles or twice a year, examining the oil filter, BlackStone oil analysis, etc.) to minimize your chances of catastrophic engine failure. In my humble opinion, M96/M97 "garage queen" cars are more susceptible to IMS failure than well-maintained daily drivers. I believe there is a lot of truth to your theory about acidic oil penetrating the bearing's seal and causing it to deteriorate and once load is placed on a damaged IMS bearing, it's... BOOOOoooOOOOoooOOOOm!!!!
Lol. Thanks, so it was mid-year 2005 that it changed... Good to know. I tried to figure that out when we had the car and got totally turned around chasing down engine number ranges. What is your opinion on the aftermarket bearings (LN, etc.)? I know of someone who had the bearing swap preventively only to have it fail a short time after. I don't know if it was just an OEM replacement or not, but I have wondered if anyone is tracking the updated bearing failure rates. Not Porsche's finest hour...
Yes, that's coming from the people like LN and Jake Raby that know these engines inside and out. Aftermarket bearings? That's a good question! As a Porsche 996 owner myself, I've thought about that a lot, there are only two options of the table for me - the LN engineering bearing (IMS solution being my top pick) or the new OEM IMS replacement directly from Porsche. That's right, Charles Navarro from LN said that Porsche is now offering an official bearing replacement for the 996 and 2005 997.1 cars. The Porsche OEM bearing is similar in design to the updated bearing in the 2006 - 2008 997 cars. But hands down, if I were going to replace the bearing with an aftermarket product, it would be from LN engineering. They're the only ones that sell a proven patented bearing. To date, LN states that the IMS solution has no failures so far. The IMS solution is a patented oil-fed design similar to design to the GT2/3 and Turbo series cars. Please know, I'm not paid by either nor have any financial dog in this fight.
Axel, thank you. It is not our car. It is a friends. We promised him we would check it out, since he just bought it a few months ago. I will pass that along. He looked for a long time before he found this one. It is a beauty. Heidi
Heidi and Franny, Love the channel and look forward to the videos I am looking to purchase a used 997.1 Can you tell me which year of 997.1 that Porsche solved its IMS bearing issue. ? Thanks Mike
Hi Mike, It was completely sorted in 2009, but starting in 2006-ish the bearing is no longer serviceable without a complete tear-apart of engine. It really goes by engine number and not year. I have researched this a bit when we had our 2006 Boxster but I found a bunch of conflicting data. You might want to do a little digging on Renlist and Pelican and see if there is any new info on it.
Cool channel, always informative and easy to understand. Am looking to buy a 997 4s, your friends 911 is stunning and the engine so clean. Have recently purchased (book) Porsche 997 the essential companion by Adrian Streather. Highly recommend!! Thanks again. Regards from Mark in east London
Next time please indicate where you locate the power fuse box please. Other than that great video. Don’t we all wish we had a power car lift at home. 👍👍❤️
Um,... Oh yeah, Dave reset that with his Durametric... I *think* you can reset it with a run of the mill OBDII reader/reseter. Here our dealership is happy to do it for free as well.
Franny, Also I think that should be included how to reset the oil service light in the dashboard, as it seems that is on when you started the car, otherwise, very detailed procedure. Regards!
Yes. The owner has a Durametric and he said he would just go ahead and reset it. For our cars I've just dropped into the dealership at an off time and they are happy to do it. I don't think it can be done through the menu. A thought might be the Carly ODBII plug-in.
Hi Bernard, The easiest believe it or not is to stop by a dealership during an off hour and most will do it for free. If you want to do it yourself, then the Durametric will push out the interval, but I don't think you can set the actual time interval. There are other OBDII/phone modules you might be able to use, but check to be certain it can actually clear services intervals. I don't think you can do it from dash controls like you can on the MINI :(
Franny, do you have to clear the service needed indicator manually? I know some cars have elaborate combinations of turning the key on and off, shifting gears, and putting on the brake to clear service indicator lights after service is performed. Does Porsche make it easy?
It is a potential time bomb if you have not had it fixed. However, if it is fixed by a competent shop, you should never have an issue and get a great car at a reasonable price. Regular oil changes and monitoring like Blackstone will help the unfixed cars, but no guarantees.
Thanks a bunch ! I just changed my 996 and it’s got the original IMS bearing... i noticed a bit of a leak ( i guess it’s the rear seals) How would you address that shaft bearing? Since I realize the seals need replacement... Thanks
Well, the transmission will need to come out and you can do the rear main seal at the same time. Check the clutch, because while you are in there... Is that where your leak is? Between the transmission and engine?
Ok,... The RMS can allow oil to seep into the RMS bearing and cause it to fail so, that needs to get done. LN Engineering is very popular. I honestly have never had to deal with this issue so I don't have first-hand experience. Looks like their kit is $800 or so. I wonder about the active oil flow systems... Seems like more complication than necessary and IMHO that bearing needs grease and not oil due to the load. Once again, I don't have first-hand experience though. Talk to a few local shops and see what they use.
Another 997 question. What's the actual voltage on the battery when the engine is running and hot on one of these? I only get about 13.6 volts which I think is low. When I purchased the car it had a brand new alternator on it. On the drive home at a motorway rest it almost did not start. I later noticed low charging voltage of 13.2 volts hot. After living with the problem for a few months I came to the conclusion my starter / alternator cable were at fault. So I replaced that (horrible job). Now the starter is fast but I now only have 13.6 volts. As my car sits around for a week or so at a time flat batteries are a problem. I came up with an interesting solution to that a year ago. That is to use an AGM type battery. Now no problems but I still think 13.6 volts is lower than it should be?
Given that it is now December in the front range of CO, I would love a video on your Porsche storage suggestions. I am reluctant to drive mine once I have it all cleaned and tucked away in the garage, but I know it maybe a mistake to merely move it 6 inches forward or backward once a week...what are your strategies to protect the precious babies?
Are you in deer creek canyon? We used to live in Conifer. So, to answer your question, we do not normally store our cars, but we do have some tips. I will try to get one out very soon. Heidi
I don't even own a Porsche and I still watched the video. Two thumbs up. Both of you also inspired me to buy my first German car. Here is my 2014 Beetle that I bought two week ago. www.microsoftinstructor.com/beetle2.JPG
That's great! Love the retro look. I had a 2003 Gen 1 turbo cab and I really liked it. Nice car and great to drive. Nice how they keep so much of the original look. Enjoy!
Current problem (maybe) with my car is a brake booster issue. I seem to have a weak vacuum pump on my 997. With the engine hot and idling after about rapid 4 presses of the pedal the booster seems to semi deplete noticeably for a second or so. I have checked all the vacuum lines manually and there are no leaks. I did find the solenoid valve on the airbox was leaking and fixing that greatly improved the issue but its still there. Now I am at the point of thinking that this may be more of a characteristic than a fault? Any ideas?
Hi Andrew, I would try splicing in a Vacuum meter to see what the Vacuum is actually doing. I just bought one off Amazon (goo.gl/Y87BEQ) it is a carb fuel pump gauge that will also read vacuum. If it stays steady with all that pedal pressing, then you may have an issue with the booster. I honestly don't know much about the modern bosters, but I should take a look at at the vacuum to rule that out. If your vacuum poops out, you may have a faulty one way valve somewhere in the system. That I think will just be a bit of trial and error. There should be a complete map of all the vacuum lines on a sticker in the engine compartment. Let me know how it goes... Franny
Heidi and Franny's Garage Thanks for your reply. I will try a vacuum gauge on it one day after the snow melts off it. These days it's all about testing things and not guessing. In Europe we do not get the vacuum diagrams under the hood however it's very simple compared with older cars.
Do modern Porsches not have magnetic drain plugs? Also would have been a good idea to have the camera show the oil pressure gauge while you’re cranking it over, as that’s the point of doing it to build some oil pressure first. Otherwise, very nice video!
Yup, totally missed that opportunity. I had forgotten that the 997s had the pressure gauge on the far right. It was missing on my Boxster. Oh, and they don't have magnetic plugs from the factory, but it is an easy, cheap upgrade.
I have one of these cars that I work on myself. As mine spends lots of time sitting around (I always drive it for more than 30 mins when I do use it) it seems to me that the service indicator only comes on after about 2 years. I change my oil once a year regardless of the indicator. What do you think of the Porsche service indicator system?
We use our own system. For example, brake flushes should be done more often in a humid climate. So, annually for oil changes is good regardless of the driving time. The indicator lights are helpful if something major happens and you shouldn’t be driving your car. The light on the 911 was on for another reason.
I have a Porsche 996 from 2002 - when driving at constant speed between 86 and 100 kmh I hear a whistle , we a press the gas just a bit the sound is gone, same when I remove my foot from the gas so only at constant speed when engine is warm. Who knows what this is, or had a similar experience? Thanks Oscar from The Netherlands
Hi Mike, Check out the Boxster oil change... That will get you going on the 996 NA (M96 engine) cars and I did our 996TT for the Mezger. The Boxster is basically the same, just with the engine in front of the transaxle. I might be able to find a 996 to con someone into letting me get my blue gloves on... F
Just watching this to remind myself of the torque numbers, and I'm wondering with the same miles on mine how come it looks like it lives at the bottom of the sea....
Heidi is correct... It was retrofitted with the factory X51 options, but there are still a couple things missing - most notably is the vacuum actuator for the sports exhaust. It is stuck on "Sport" all the time...
Never double or triple click a torque wrench - it adds to the torque applied more than you realize. And i am against filling filter housings with oil unless you know its absolutely clean. A small piece of dirt not going through the filter and into the bearings could cause permanent damage. Otherwise a great video.
I can't say I hate any car, but I do dislike the tendency to build a new model each year with so much inbuilt complication that even Franny might have difficulty! Manufacturers' business models seem to centre on a) silly performance numbers for journalists to quote and b)guaranteed service payments because nobody can fix their own cars. Sealed engine compartments and self driving, adaptive damping management? No thanks.
Patrick, you hit the target with marksman accuracy. I hate product of those shady business practices.. witch happen to be the water cooled Porsches. Oh and let us not forget about the ticking timebomb I.M.S. bearing.
Having had a 996, I know what you mean (although I had no problems with bearings, I disliked the rust-prone undercarriage components). The whole situation was mishandled by a certain company...not a testament to their customer care.
Well, I've done that :) What I do is, with the car cold, (this is a bit messy) grab your drain pan and loosen the drain plug. just to the point of coming completely out and out a measuring cup under the bolt. Loosen the rest of the way, but hold the plug up against the car. Just let out enough to fill your measuring cup to the correct amount you want to remove and re-tighten the plug.
Hi Everyone, A new video on an oil change, this time on a 2006 Porsche 997 C4S with the super cool X51 performance pack. This is our friends Dave and Jody's car - you remember their beautiful yellow 2002 Boxster :) We did an oil pull for another Blackstone analysis and Dave will post the results as soon as they come back. I did a few sort of optional steps that you can decide if you want to bother or not. They are to reduce ware on initial startup with the new oil I have all this info in the description, but tools and parts are:
The following steps are optional:
• Prefilling the oil filter housing half way with oil.
• Blackstone Laboratories oil test.
• Pulling the fuel pump fuse.
The parts used are:
• Oil Filter Kit (includes large rubber O-Ring): Hengst E14H D77 (99610722560) or MAHLE goo.gl/yJLkuD
• Mobil 1 120760 Synthetic Motor Oil 0W-40, 5 Quart : goo.gl/GECf9i
• Case drain plug washer: 900-123-106-30 18X24 (Al)
You’ll need:
• Filter Cover Socket: 000-721-920-40
• 8mm Hex
• Torque Wrench
• 10Qts of oil (capacity is ~9Qts)
• Blackstone Analysis Kit (optional)
Torque Values:
• Case Drain Plug: 37 Ft-Lbs
• Oil Filter Cover: 19 Ft-Lbs
The oil I used (supplied by Dave) was Mobil1 0W-40, but use what is specified by your owners manual.
*** UPDATE: I got a message from a very knowledgeable viewer who mentioned the oil level is best checked warm as the oil will expand and it reduces the risk of over-filling. In addition to that, it is best to shoot for one notch from the top and not the top mark on the E-Gauge. I also did some research and for the 997.1, the oil check system tries to take into account the temperature and will control when it will display the oil level. For the 997.2, the oil is checked hot.
Hope you enjoy this! Any questions, please leave them below. Thanks! Franny
I enjoyed your Carrera 4S oil change video. I want to keep my 997 2008 Turbo from starting to bring up the oil pressure. Which fuse is the fuel pump fuse? Do you have a Turbo oil change video?
Thanks,
Kenny H
Dear Heidi and Franny, First off, I wanted to compliment you on the channel and the videos. They are very educational and informative for DIYers such as myself who would like additional tips on properly caring for your car. I've watched almost every video and will start applying some of your techniques to my maintenance procedures. Second, I especially like that you have a particular focus on Porsche - it's one of my all-time favorite car brands. However, I am a vintage Volvo enthusiast and have exclusively driven Volvos for many years, since a car accident in late 2004 (Yes, I was in a Volvo!). I'm sure that you see countless old Volvos in your area out in Colorado.
I also like the fact that none of your vehicles are what they call "garage queens," in that you drive all of them whenever you can. I have three Volvos - two 1989 740 GL sedans, and one 2000 V70 station wagon. I purchased all three cars from their original owners, who were all U.S. military. They are some of the best owners to purchase a vehicle from, as you know that they have taken meticulous care of their autos. One of the 740s has well over 300,000 miles on it - 306k, to be exact. I've found over the years that the older RWD Volvos with the "redblock" engines are some of the simplest and easiest vehicles to work on - for example, doing oil changes takes about 20-25 minutes for me (4.5 quarts with filter). And just like you, I use only OEM parts - no exceptions. I don't take shortcuts when maintaining and repairing the Volvos, and I don't cheap out on the parts either.
If more folks watched your videos, there would be a lot more older vintage cars still on the road. Just my $.02.
Keep up the good work! Best, Paolo Rosales, Alexandria, Virginia
Thanks so much! I had a Saab years ago and just loved it. My sister had an older Volvo and it was a great car! I always love seeing the P1800s at shows ;) Franny
Love your videos Franny.
I am more impressed that you are wearing a light pink fleece to do an oil change :)
That works most of the time... ;)
Cutting open the filter to inspect it is brilliant. Love the DIY videos. I'll be ready for my first Porsche. I'm leaning toward a 997.2.
Cool. We are excited for you. Keep us filled in. We are on instagram and twitter and Facebook if you want to post photos once you take the plunge. Are you going towards PDK or Manual?
PDK. It will be a daily driver. My ‘14 Miata Club satisfies my manual shifting.
I don't think the extra $15k is worth it for the 997.2 over the 997.1.
This is the best video for a 997.1 oil change that I have found, and I think I have watched at least ten. Thanks guys. I’m off to do it right now!!!
Yea! Thanks so much! I hope it all goes well :)
@@HeidiandFranny ha! Guess what? I got all my stuff ready and then I find out my car has the spin on adapter. That means I had the wrong filter. The wrong wrench. And I certainly couldn’t simply fan out the filter to inspect it. But, I made the whole thing work. I did, however, do your fuel pump fuse trick!
@@frugalera oh no! Why would someone do that? The factory setup works great. Oh well. I suppose you could use a manual can opener and still cut it open, but what a pain. Well, party on I suppose :)
Watching these are so therapeutic for some reason :) Thanks
Cool.
Informative as usual! I have not pulled the fuel pump fuse previously, but will going forward. Thanks for the tip.
The "2000 years later " was hilarious.
Glad you are enjoying Franny’s videos Jerry. Heidi
I just chuckled, thanks to your good sense of humour.
i like how u explain everey step along the process in a clear and informal english...i like english and mechanics videos..your videos help me both my english and car mechanics skills...i turn on the cc and almost all of the cc its the same u speak thanks to ur clear and calm voice as u work...some other car youtubers mumble or have poor sound microphones
2000 years later, oh the automation. Another reason to buy an old Porsche. These new ones... who would have one.
That's a lot of shop time costs... Just think how much you save with DIY!
Hello from Russia
You are the prettiest professional ever seen😊
Just perfect
Another great video! You two keep raising your game and are producing some seriously useful (not to mention audibly coherent and visually well-lit). I look forward to seeing the results from Blackstone!
Whoo hoo.
A 997 in good health! 30 minutes Porsche time equals 2,000 years. Sounds about right!
Excellent video. Liked the precaution of fuel pump fuse removal. Bet the OPC doesn't bother with any of these precautions!! My OPC is pretty sloppy...so I do the servicing myself...not simply to save a whole wad of money for very little in return...but to make sure that servicing is done correctly and that paintwork doesn't suffer those annoying scratches and chips from careless contact from tools!
Ah, such a lucky owner. I don't know what it is but this particular body style works for me. Great video as always. Thank you for the information just makes me want one that much more.
Yep. We are waiting foe you to get one. :).
Well done, that oil still had some life in to it ( it was still clear at the drainage ) text book servicing Franny specialy like the attention for the porsche know ow (fuse + delay check after ) this was a great one nice flow and narration was perfect Keep up the good work guy s SoulDave
Thanks so much!
surprising, it is great to have access to so much information, with a high technical level ..
Thanks!
First time checking out your videos and YOU ARE AWESOME!! Great explanations and easy to follow! Thank you!!
Thank you for a very informative video for those that like to do their own oil changes. IMHO, Porsche didn't get the IMS issue solved until the 997.2 or 2009 model with the complete new engine design. I've talked to many people with 997.1 (i.e. 2005 - 2008) cars that have suffered from IMS failure. Had they took your advice (e.g. examine the oil filters) as well as a few other things (i.e. change oil more regularly) they could have avoided engine failure. I agree the updated bearing in 2006 was more robust and could handle the load better than the previous single row bearing found in the 996 and early 997, but still could fail which required the motor to be completely split to service and repair if the motor could be reconstructed.
Thanks for that! We had an '06 Boxster (did I mention that?) and I did sweat the oil changes a bit. It is difficult to know exactly when Porsche changed over to the non-serviceable bearing by engine numbers. So, the long and short is, as you mentioned, '09 or later if you never want to even consider it, '06-'08 if you are willing to take on a small(er) risk, and earlier if you take the car in and just get it replaced with a rear main seal and new clutch. For all of them, cut open the filter and maybe send the oil out for analysis. Oh, and drive the car! Looks like there are more failures in cars with short trips/low mileage and less on track cars. That's probably because of water and gas in the oil penetrating the seal and washing out the grease in that bearing. Franny
Most of the experts (Flat6Innovations, LN, etc.) say that the bearing and intermediate shaft was updated mid-year in 2005 for the 997. And so, if you have a 2005 997, then it's possible you have newer bearing, but you can't be 100% sure without examining the outer IMS flange. If you have a 2006 - 2008 997, you definitely have the updated shaft and the larger non-serviceable single row bearing. The larger single row bearing in the 997 has proven to be superior to the older 6204 single bearing found mostly in the 2000 - 2005 996 cars, but it still can fail. Therefore, it's important that people that own the 2006 - 2008 997 cars, that although you have a better bearing, it's still smart to take preventive measures (changing the oil every 5000 miles or twice a year, examining the oil filter, BlackStone oil analysis, etc.) to minimize your chances of catastrophic engine failure. In my humble opinion, M96/M97 "garage queen" cars are more susceptible to IMS failure than well-maintained daily drivers. I believe there is a lot of truth to your theory about acidic oil penetrating the bearing's seal and causing it to deteriorate and once load is placed on a damaged IMS bearing, it's... BOOOOoooOOOOoooOOOOm!!!!
Lol. Thanks, so it was mid-year 2005 that it changed... Good to know. I tried to figure that out when we had the car and got totally turned around chasing down engine number ranges. What is your opinion on the aftermarket bearings (LN, etc.)? I know of someone who had the bearing swap preventively only to have it fail a short time after. I don't know if it was just an OEM replacement or not, but I have wondered if anyone is tracking the updated bearing failure rates. Not Porsche's finest hour...
Yes, that's coming from the people like LN and Jake Raby that know these engines inside and out. Aftermarket bearings? That's a good question! As a Porsche 996 owner myself, I've thought about that a lot, there are only two options of the table for me - the LN engineering bearing (IMS solution being my top pick) or the new OEM IMS replacement directly from Porsche. That's right, Charles Navarro from LN said that Porsche is now offering an official bearing replacement for the 996 and 2005 997.1 cars. The Porsche OEM bearing is similar in design to the updated bearing in the 2006 - 2008 997 cars. But hands down, if I were going to replace the bearing with an aftermarket product, it would be from LN engineering. They're the only ones that sell a proven patented bearing. To date, LN states that the IMS solution has no failures so far. The IMS solution is a patented oil-fed design similar to design to the GT2/3 and Turbo series cars. Please know, I'm not paid by either nor have any financial dog in this fight.
Thanks for the comprehensive DIY. The 997 platform is new to me so I greatly appreciate all of the included information.
Perfect Franny ! And i also learn something new :) Pulling the fuse for the fuel pump for making oil pressure
Thanks so much.
Thanks, no body can explain this better than you,
Thanks.
Another informative video, thanks! Your 997 is really in great condition, no wonder....!
Axel, thank you. It is not our car. It is a friends. We promised him we would check it out, since he just bought it a few months ago. I will pass that along. He looked for a long time before he found this one. It is a beauty. Heidi
Clear instructional video. Thanks🙏🏽
Great video! I'm working on this right now. Thanks!!!
very very well expalined!! thanks
Hello Heidi & Franny thanks for the good advice but on my 2008 911 Carrera the engine does not turn over at all with the fuel pump fuse removed.
Nice job!!!
Great video! On those engines, I always replaced the 8mm drain plug, because it’s very difficult to remove it it get stripped out. $5 part.
I totally agree... the hex kept getting stuck in it :( Just replace with a magnetic plug and problem solved :)
Heidi and Franny, Love the channel and look forward to the videos I am looking to purchase a used 997.1 Can you tell me which year of 997.1 that Porsche solved its IMS bearing issue. ?
Thanks
Mike
Hi Mike, It was completely sorted in 2009, but starting in 2006-ish the bearing is no longer serviceable without a complete tear-apart of engine. It really goes by engine number and not year. I have researched this a bit when we had our 2006 Boxster but I found a bunch of conflicting data. You might want to do a little digging on Renlist and Pelican and see if there is any new info on it.
@@HeidiandFranny Thank you for your response. I do appreciate your help
Cheers
Mike
Any info.on oil service indicator reset? Do you know if cylinder scuffing will leave traces in the oil filter?
Thank you I have a 997.1 Carrera S RWD
Also question on my 08 997 4 s what should my oil pressure reading be on a cold start ?
Thank you great tutorial :)
Cool channel, always informative and easy to understand. Am looking to buy a 997 4s, your friends 911 is stunning and the engine so clean. Have recently purchased (book) Porsche 997 the essential companion by Adrian Streather. Highly recommend!! Thanks again. Regards from Mark in east London
How do you reset the service now message? Thanks great video.
thanks that was a great video, what s the weight op the oil
@@CarlosPhilpot Just use the manufactures recommended oil and you'll be fine. Weights are dependent on the climate the car is driven in.
Top video - can I ask - why did you want the fuel pump to not work ? Just so it doesn’t start or another reason?
Well made video, can you post the X51 Air box data link, I could not find it, Tks!
do most mechanics go thru this change?
Next time please indicate where you locate the power fuse box please. Other than that great video. Don’t we all wish we had a power car lift at home. 👍👍❤️
I love you videos. Great job!
+Rebl Driver thanks!
Maybe I missed it, did you get the results back from Blackstone? Great work and very thorough!
Ha! You are right! Dave commented to the Boxster video with the results, but not here. I'll hit him up for that!
Thanks, Franny
Nice job Franny, how did you remove the service now warning light?
Um,... Oh yeah, Dave reset that with his Durametric... I *think* you can reset it with a run of the mill OBDII reader/reseter. Here our dealership is happy to do it for free as well.
Franny, Also I think that should be included how to reset the oil service light in the dashboard, as it seems that is on when you started the car, otherwise, very detailed procedure. Regards!
Yes. The owner has a Durametric and he said he would just go ahead and reset it. For our cars I've just dropped into the dealership at an off time and they are happy to do it. I don't think it can be done through the menu. A thought might be the Carly ODBII plug-in.
Hi Franny, how do you reset/remove the “service now” message on the instrument cluster?
Hi Bernard, The easiest believe it or not is to stop by a dealership during an off hour and most will do it for free. If you want to do it yourself, then the Durametric will push out the interval, but I don't think you can set the actual time interval. There are other OBDII/phone modules you might be able to use, but check to be certain it can actually clear services intervals. I don't think you can do it from dash controls like you can on the MINI :(
Franny, do you have to clear the service needed indicator manually? I know some cars have elaborate combinations of turning the key on and off, shifting gears, and putting on the brake to clear service indicator lights after service is performed. Does Porsche make it easy?
Hi Sherri, I believe you need a Durametrics or similar... If you have a good relationship with the dealer or an Indy they can do it for you as well.
Could you please please share your opinion on the IMS bearing M96? Also any after market improvements
It is a potential time bomb if you have not had it fixed. However, if it is fixed by a competent shop, you should never have an issue and get a great car at a reasonable price. Regular oil changes and monitoring like Blackstone will help the unfixed cars, but no guarantees.
excellent video
Thanks a bunch ! I just changed my 996 and it’s got the original IMS bearing... i noticed a bit of a leak ( i guess it’s the rear seals)
How would you address that shaft bearing? Since I realize the seals need replacement...
Thanks
Well, the transmission will need to come out and you can do the rear main seal at the same time. Check the clutch, because while you are in there... Is that where your leak is? Between the transmission and engine?
Heidi and Franny's Garage
Yes the leak is between the two ... what’s you view on this aftermarket fixes ? Which is best ? Why
Ok,... The RMS can allow oil to seep into the RMS bearing and cause it to fail so, that needs to get done. LN Engineering is very popular. I honestly have never had to deal with this issue so I don't have first-hand experience. Looks like their kit is $800 or so. I wonder about the active oil flow systems... Seems like more complication than necessary and IMHO that bearing needs grease and not oil due to the load. Once again, I don't have first-hand experience though. Talk to a few local shops and see what they use.
Another 997 question. What's the actual voltage on the battery when the engine is running and hot on one of these? I only get about 13.6 volts which I think is low. When I purchased the car it had a brand new alternator on it. On the drive home at a motorway rest it almost did not start. I later noticed low charging voltage of 13.2 volts hot. After living with the problem for a few months I came to the conclusion my starter / alternator cable were at fault. So I replaced that (horrible job). Now the starter is fast but I now only have 13.6 volts. As my car sits around for a week or so at a time flat batteries are a problem. I came up with an interesting solution to that a year ago. That is to use an AGM type battery. Now no problems but I still think 13.6 volts is lower than it should be?
What about a trickle charger? We have those especially for the winter months. Also, 13.2 seems normal but you could check the specs.
Do you know Militec1? And do you wear in engine's car?
A GREAT VIDEO FOR US ...THANK YOU...CONGRATULATIONS FROM BRAZIL . HERE (zé frisinho)
Hi there! Thanks so much!
Great information thx
Hi there!
Great vid!!!
I noticed the service message would still on after you were done with the oil change. How can I set it?
Thank you so much
Our friend has the durametric.
Given that it is now December in the front range of CO, I would love a video on your Porsche storage suggestions. I am reluctant to drive mine once I have it all cleaned and tucked away in the garage, but I know it maybe a mistake to merely move it 6 inches forward or backward once a week...what are your strategies to protect the precious babies?
Are you in deer creek canyon? We used to live in Conifer. So, to answer your question, we do not normally store our cars, but we do have some tips. I will try to get one out very soon. Heidi
I don't even own a Porsche and I still watched the video. Two thumbs up. Both of you also inspired me to buy my first German car. Here is my 2014 Beetle that I bought two week ago. www.microsoftinstructor.com/beetle2.JPG
That's great! Love the retro look. I had a 2003 Gen 1 turbo cab and I really liked it. Nice car and great to drive. Nice how they keep so much of the original look. Enjoy!
The interior is also a nice throwback to the old days: www.microsoftinstructor.com/beetleinterior1.jpg
Thanks girls for the explanations ! :)
Sure.
Current problem (maybe) with my car is a brake booster issue. I seem to have a weak vacuum pump on my 997. With the engine hot and idling after about rapid 4 presses of the pedal the booster seems to semi deplete noticeably for a second or so. I have checked all the vacuum lines manually and there are no leaks. I did find the solenoid valve on the airbox was leaking and fixing that greatly improved the issue but its still there. Now I am at the point of thinking that this may be more of a characteristic than a fault? Any ideas?
Hi Andrew, I would try splicing in a Vacuum meter to see what the Vacuum is actually doing. I just bought one off Amazon (goo.gl/Y87BEQ) it is a carb fuel pump gauge that will also read vacuum. If it stays steady with all that pedal pressing, then you may have an issue with the booster. I honestly don't know much about the modern bosters, but I should take a look at at the vacuum to rule that out. If your vacuum poops out, you may have a faulty one way valve somewhere in the system. That I think will just be a bit of trial and error. There should be a complete map of all the vacuum lines on a sticker in the engine compartment. Let me know how it goes... Franny
Heidi and Franny's Garage Thanks for your reply. I will try a vacuum gauge on it one day after the snow melts off it. These days it's all about testing things and not guessing. In Europe we do not get the vacuum diagrams under the hood however it's very simple compared with older cars.
Do modern Porsches not have magnetic drain plugs?
Also would have been a good idea to have the camera show the oil pressure gauge while you’re cranking it over, as that’s the point of doing it to build some oil pressure first. Otherwise, very nice video!
Yup, totally missed that opportunity. I had forgotten that the 997s had the pressure gauge on the far right. It was missing on my Boxster. Oh, and they don't have magnetic plugs from the factory, but it is an easy, cheap upgrade.
Thanks for this.
You are very welcome :)
I have one of these cars that I work on myself. As mine spends lots of time sitting around (I always drive it for more than 30 mins when I do use it) it seems to me that the service indicator only comes on after about 2 years. I change my oil once a year regardless of the indicator. What do you think of the Porsche service indicator system?
We use our own system. For example, brake flushes should be done more often in a humid climate. So, annually for oil changes is good regardless of the driving time. The indicator lights are helpful if something major happens and you shouldn’t be driving your car. The light on the 911 was on for another reason.
I have a Porsche 996 from 2002 - when driving at constant speed between 86 and 100 kmh I hear a whistle , we a press the gas just a bit the sound is gone, same when I remove my foot from the gas so only at constant speed when engine is warm. Who knows what this is, or had a similar experience? Thanks Oscar from The Netherlands
hi franny, please can you do at some point a service /oil change on a 996 thanks as you explain it so well to us mortals
Hi Mike, Check out the Boxster oil change... That will get you going on the 996 NA (M96 engine) cars and I did our 996TT for the Mezger. The Boxster is basically the same, just with the engine in front of the transaxle. I might be able to find a 996 to con someone into letting me get my blue gloves on... F
Just watching this to remind myself of the torque numbers, and I'm wondering with the same miles on mine how come it looks like it lives at the bottom of the sea....
Hope there’s Liqui Molly inside the Mobil1 containers.
Nice video !X51 ?
I believe so, but after the fact (not an option).
Heidi is correct... It was retrofitted with the factory X51 options, but there are still a couple things missing - most notably is the vacuum actuator for the sports exhaust. It is stuck on "Sport" all the time...
Never double or triple click a torque wrench - it adds to the torque applied more than you realize. And i am against filling filter housings with oil unless you know its absolutely clean. A small piece of dirt not going through the filter and into the bearings could cause permanent damage. Otherwise a great video.
Love the informative video, hate the (water cooled, excessively computerized ) car.
I can't say I hate any car, but I do dislike the tendency to build a new model each year with so much inbuilt complication that even Franny might have difficulty! Manufacturers' business models seem to centre on a) silly performance numbers for journalists to quote and b)guaranteed service payments because nobody can fix their own cars. Sealed engine compartments and self driving, adaptive damping management? No thanks.
Patrick, you hit the target with marksman accuracy. I hate product of those shady business practices.. witch happen to be the water cooled Porsches. Oh and let us not forget about the ticking timebomb I.M.S. bearing.
Having had a 996, I know what you mean (although I had no problems with bearings, I disliked the rust-prone undercarriage components). The whole situation was mishandled by a certain company...not a testament to their customer care.
Any tricks that you can recommend if I out too much oil? I have 1.5qts left out of 10qts but my oil level is above where it should be.
Well, I've done that :) What I do is, with the car cold, (this is a bit messy) grab your drain pan and loosen the drain plug. just to the point of coming completely out and out a measuring cup under the bolt. Loosen the rest of the way, but hold the plug up against the car. Just let out enough to fill your measuring cup to the correct amount you want to remove and re-tighten the plug.
Heidi and Franny's Garage thanks! Do I need to replace the washer?
Great video