Not a mechanic but I try to work on my 2010 tundra to save money. This video made it possible. Man card intact and my wife thinks I’m a genius. Thank you! Excellent video.
. The tip about jacking up the motor was GOLD! For the reassemble I held off dropping the motor until right before installing the last heat shield. I just set it in it’s place until I reattached the mount. Soooo much easier that way. If I could make one suggestion, removing the motor mount nut and lifting the engine sooner in the process. Like after removing the dipstick and first heat shield I can’t see any reason not to. Thanks again!
Best technique for doing the job for sure. It always takes at least an hour of RUclips research before starting any DYI jobs. I can get through the knucklehead videos with a 30 second time investment for each one. But to find the the best for a job takes about 6-7 minutes each. Yours was very good, clear, concise quick and easy to follow and no generic music!... That gem about removing the motor mount bolt and lifting the engine, like saving the best for last. Thanks
Great video... But if you wanna skip jacking up the engine then just remove the seleniod and it will pass up through Axel and frame then reinstall once it's above frame
Watched about 5 or 6 videos before I got to yours and I have to say Thank you and my hat is off to you . Your video makes sense and your technique make you a Master of your trade 👍🏼 well done.
If you jack up the engine, use a 2 x 4 block of wood that is about as long as the oil pan. I dented my oil pan because I used too short of a wood block. Oops.
Very nice, one of the best I've seen on this procedure. Yet, it is the only one I've seen suggesting removal of an engine mounting bolt, even among those not loosening the exhaust manifold. Thanks for posting.
Guys I removed the starter mounting bolts and removed the solenoid from the started before dropping it aft and down the tranny. Installed in reverse. Worked great!!!!!!!
I got lucky & was able to pull it down along the coolant line & muffler. Now the coolant lines bracket & 2 hose need disconnected & pluged. Now them dam lines can be moved a bit. I did have to bend the lines a tab but she came out. After removing the starter bolts when doing so turn the starter clockwise so the throw out gear opening is about 2:00 the lower cross bracket is in the way but you can muscle it through. Idid see on another video the gear opening were facing 11/12 position. That didn't work for me so do what works. It still was a pain in the A. Put it back the same way make sure to get the coolant hoses are cleared in order to force it buck up & through. Good Luck
Thanks, I already replaced the starter about a year ago, I had a mechanic replace it, I just want to replace the oil dipstick tube myself, but worried if its gets stuck in the pan while removing it.... then I would have to get it towed I imagine.... not sure...
My 14mm wobbler socket couldn't access that top starter bolt.....not even with the transmission cooler line bracket unbolted. I ended up using a 14mm gear wrench.
Factory repair manual says to remove right exhaust manifold to access the starter, but this will work. Except the Orielly starter. With this much work and age Id rather go with a Denso starter or have the old one rebuilt at a reputable rebuilder in your area.
@L Smith: I go with the rebuilt units because there are other components that get replaced like bearings and brushes and perhaps the stator, if it’s gone bad. I don’t want to replace starters several times in a span of 4-5 years based on a “lifetime warranty “ That’s just been my experience/approach.
@L Smith if you I steal good quality parts they’ll last much longer. Those off the shelf Orielly and Auto Zone starters don’t use quality replacement parts. That why in many instances they have a “lifetime warranty”, they’ll be seeing you much sooner than you think...😄
Thanks for getting back about the removing the dipstick tube..... Do you need to drain the oil in the oil pan before you remove the dipstick tube or is ok to leave the oil in, without oil coming out? Thanks....
Thanks again..... this helped alot.... I have a leak in the dipstick seal where it meets the oil pan, I thinking about do the work myself..... I hope the tube does not break when trying to remove the oil dipstick tube out..... do you have any suggestions? I just subscribed to your channel.
@@z06ix it's not an easy job to replace the starter. Some people remove the exhaust manifold to gain access to it. But the manifold bolts could strip or break. I think a small O ring seals the dipstick tube, easy fix.
I got mine changed and this video helped along with reading several forums. I just thought I would mention that inside the door jam of my 2008 Tundra the factory label with specs calls them (rims) not wheels and the motor mount requires a nut removal not a bolt! You do say nut right at the end.
Just replaced mine today, worst starter replacement I ever have had the displeasure to do. I removed the pass. side cat and pipe b/c mine was bad and needed to be replace anyway but I managed to crush the Trans cooler tube when trying to remove the hoses... Got to order a new one for an additional $250.00... Still beat the crap out of the price the dealer quoted me.
Pilot Guy did the motor mount come right back down in the right spot when you lowered the engine back down? I’m going to be doing this in the ground so just curious if that part is easy. Hoping it is, thanks.
@@erikstover3228. No it did not, but it is easy to realign the stud as it has a rubber base. I got the engine close to the stud then used a small pry bar to align the motor mount bolt. After that I finished lowering the floor jack very slowly.
You saved me on this one. In the middle of changing my Starter on a 2010 Toyota Sequoia 4wd. Has 190K miles on it. Original starter. Took the right engine mount nut off and jacked the engine enough to get the old starter through the rail and the exhaust manifold. Of course the solenoid connector lock broke as soon as I pushed it. Had to order another connector with pigtail. Thanks for this video, not sure if I would have thought about jacking the engine up to get it out. You the man!
Omfg, the motor mount and a screw jack... Beats the hell out of clamping and taking the oil cooler lines off and fighting that mess. Not knocking the method.
I replaced the starter and now when I hooked up the battery cable the starter to spins without the key on or anything. It doesn't engage the flywheel. It just spins constantly. I know I hooked all the wires up correctly. Is something shorted out inside the solenoid, or the starter? Both parts are brand new.
This is a difficult question to answer. I find that it takes twice as long to do a job while filming. And I had a few beers since I did the job, so I don't recall. But I would estimate 3 hours without filming. Maybe someone else can chime in on this question.
Any tips on lining up the mount bolt again? We have tried changing jack geometries up and down. Thinking about loosening up drivers side mount bolt to see if that helps.
@@rwgnad thanks. I loosened the driver's side and jacked it up again this allowed it to line back up. Thanks again for the help. We are back on the road.
Not a mechanic but I try to work on my 2010 tundra to save money. This video made it possible. Man card intact and my wife thinks I’m a genius. Thank you! Excellent video.
. The tip about jacking up the motor was GOLD! For the reassemble I held off dropping the motor until right before installing the last heat shield. I just set it in it’s place until I reattached the mount. Soooo much easier that way. If I could make one suggestion, removing the motor mount nut and lifting the engine sooner in the process. Like after removing the dipstick and first heat shield I can’t see any reason not to. Thanks again!
Where did you Jack the motor up? Just on the oil pan or what and did you use something in between the Jack and oil pan like a block of wood? Thanks.
@@erikstover3228 I used a 4x4 piece of pressure treated wood.
Best technique for doing the job for sure. It always takes at least an hour of RUclips research before starting any DYI jobs. I can get through the knucklehead videos with a 30 second time investment for each one. But to find the the best for a job takes about 6-7 minutes each. Yours was very good, clear, concise quick and easy to follow and no generic music!... That gem about removing the motor mount bolt and lifting the engine, like saving the best for last. Thanks
Great video...
But if you wanna skip jacking up the engine then just remove the seleniod and it will pass up through Axel and frame then reinstall once it's above frame
Not a lot of room for that, either, since I have huge hands, and I'd much rather leave the starter intact.
I learned something, I learned I now don't like Toyota engineers.
Other than that it was a very helpful video, thank you.
O'Reilly's..O'Reilly..?
That's not what you do when you love your truck. OEM starters run 150-200k. OEM for the win.
Watched about 5 or 6 videos before I got to yours and I have to say Thank you and my hat is off to you . Your video makes sense and your technique make you a Master of your trade 👍🏼 well done.
Thank you for your kind words. 🙏🏻
cool video did you have to remove the oil dipstick tube to get to the starter? Thanks....
@@z06ix Yes. I removed the dipstick tube.
I like that sycopath. The heat shields was nuts tomorrow I get to put them back in lucky me trust me there will be a few less bolts too.
Woe woe woe.... Did you just call 2008 vintage????
If you jack up the engine, use a 2 x 4 block of wood that is about as long as the oil pan. I dented my oil pan because I used too short of a wood block. Oops.
Dam that's crazy I didn't have to lift the engine just fell right out of the bottom and I already got it back in 🤷🏿♂️
Very nice, one of the best I've seen on this procedure. Yet, it is the only one I've seen suggesting removal of an engine mounting bolt, even among those not loosening the exhaust manifold. Thanks for posting.
Guys I removed the starter mounting bolts and removed the solenoid from the started before dropping it aft and down the tranny. Installed in reverse. Worked great!!!!!!!
I got lucky & was able to pull it down along the coolant line & muffler. Now the coolant lines bracket & 2 hose need disconnected & pluged. Now them dam lines can be moved a bit. I did have to bend the lines a tab but she came out. After removing the starter bolts when doing so turn the starter clockwise so the throw out gear opening is about 2:00 the lower cross bracket is in the way but you can muscle it through. Idid see on another video the gear opening were facing 11/12 position. That didn't work for me so do what works. It still was a pain in the A. Put it back the same way make sure to get the coolant hoses are cleared in order to force it buck up & through. Good Luck
This job sucks so bad,dont use aftermarket starter!!!repeat dont use aftermarket starter!!!!!
Thats right, it looks so difficult why would you want to take a risk to install aftermarket? It doesnt make sense unless you have alot of free times
Thanks, I already replaced the starter about a year ago, I had a mechanic replace it, I just want to replace the oil dipstick tube myself, but worried if its gets stuck in the pan while removing it.... then I would have to get it towed I imagine.... not sure...
Wow changing a starter on a Detomaso Pantera is easy compared to the Tundra.
My 14mm wobbler socket couldn't access that top starter bolt.....not even with the transmission cooler line bracket unbolted. I ended up using a 14mm gear wrench.
Factory repair manual says to remove right exhaust manifold to access the starter, but this will work. Except the Orielly starter. With this much work and age Id rather go with a Denso starter or have the old one rebuilt at a reputable rebuilder in your area.
@L Smith: I go with the rebuilt units because there are other components that get replaced like bearings and brushes and perhaps the stator, if it’s gone bad. I don’t want to replace starters several times in a span of 4-5 years based on a “lifetime warranty “ That’s just been my experience/approach.
@L Smith if you I steal good quality parts they’ll last much longer. Those off the shelf Orielly and Auto Zone starters don’t use quality replacement parts. That why in many instances they have a “lifetime warranty”, they’ll be seeing you much sooner than you think...😄
5.8 hr job... Doesnt the book say to take off the belt, alternator, fan assembly, exhaust manifold, and do it that way?
@L Smith Book time yeah. But thats taking out everything and doing it by the book.
No. It didn't take you an hour.
Just remove the exhaust manifold and pull the starter and call it a day
Great work on the replacement and the video. These steps should be about identical for a 2008 Toyota Sequoia 5.7L, if I'm not mistaken?
Thanks for getting back about the removing the dipstick tube..... Do you need to drain the oil in the oil pan before you remove the dipstick tube or is ok to leave the oil in, without oil coming out? Thanks....
@@z06ix no need to drain the oil. It won't spill out.
Thanks again..... this helped alot.... I have a leak in the dipstick seal where it meets the oil pan, I thinking about do the work myself..... I hope the tube does not break when trying to remove the oil dipstick tube out..... do you have any suggestions? I just subscribed to your channel.
@@z06ix it's not an easy job to replace the starter. Some people remove the exhaust manifold to gain access to it. But the manifold bolts could strip or break. I think a small O ring seals the dipstick tube, easy fix.
I got mine changed and this video helped along with reading several forums. I just thought I would mention that inside the door jam of my 2008 Tundra the factory label with specs calls them (rims) not wheels and the motor mount requires a nut removal not a bolt! You do say nut right at the end.
This job has an F bomb rating of 5 out of 5.
I agree, Toyota could have made it made it easier.
Just replaced mine today, worst starter replacement I ever have had the displeasure to do.
I removed the pass. side cat and pipe b/c mine was bad and needed to be replace anyway but I managed to crush the Trans cooler tube when trying to remove the hoses... Got to order a new one for an additional $250.00...
Still beat the crap out of the price the dealer quoted me.
This is a fking nightmare wth toyolla
Awesome video - very helpful, Thank you
Im sure its got 300k on the clock
I have a question I got this small black plastic part off my starter and was wondering what it is
It's probably the battery cable nut/post cover.
Thank You sir, I used your technique to change the starter in a parking lot. Your video was perfect. Thanks again.
In a parking lot!!?? You are the man!
Pilot Guy did the motor mount come right back down in the right spot when you lowered the engine back down? I’m going to be doing this in the ground so just curious if that part is easy. Hoping it is, thanks.
@@erikstover3228. No it did not, but it is easy to realign the stud as it has a rubber base. I got the engine close to the stud then used a small pry bar to align the motor mount bolt. After that I finished lowering the floor jack very slowly.
How long did it take you
Te rifaste campeón!! Muy escondido
Tundras man. I love em but they’re a pain in the ass to work on😂
Glad I saw this video. Jacked up engine after removing bolt and the starter came out no problem. Thanks for the video
I don’t even have a tundra but yet I thought this was nicely done video!
Best hack yet for this job, thanks.
Thanks for the video, awesome angle, and you went straight to the point, no bs in between. Thanks again.
Way too much work
You saved me on this one. In the middle of changing my Starter on a 2010 Toyota Sequoia 4wd. Has 190K miles on it. Original starter. Took the right engine mount nut off and jacked the engine enough to get the old starter through the rail and the exhaust manifold. Of course the solenoid connector lock broke as soon as I pushed it. Had to order another connector with pigtail. Thanks for this video, not sure if I would have thought about jacking the engine up to get it out. You the man!
Awesome 👌 exelent tips
You do not need to lift motor or pull exhaust.. the starter will fit....
@@JoshAtterberry show me a link to a video.
I've done it.. didn't need a video.. but perhaps I'll make one
@@JoshAtterberrynot on a 4x4.
Dis you have to remove the dipstick tube
Yes
Awesome. Thanks for this.
I hope it helps. Good luck. 🙂
Fantastic Video! Thank you for posting.
Great video. Love the SJ in the background.
Omfg, the motor mount and a screw jack... Beats the hell out of clamping and taking the oil cooler lines off and fighting that mess. Not knocking the method.
Take the solenoid off the starter before dropping it out. Install in reverse...Do not remove exhaust. It worked great.
Excellent suggestion.
I replaced the starter and now when I hooked up the battery cable the starter to spins without the key on or anything. It doesn't engage the flywheel. It just spins constantly. I know I hooked all the wires up correctly. Is something shorted out inside the solenoid, or the starter? Both parts are brand new.
Got to do this soon for my friend but really makes me glad i am a gm guy, this is not cool and the 4.7 removing a intake for a starter is just silly
That awesome bump cap keeps you from thinking properly.
Thank you for your detail in the video it's always nice to have someone go through each step
Excellent explanation and showing of what is needed to be done and not a bunch of nonsense talk . Great job
What's that tiny, single tube attached to it? How do you disconnect that?
How many hours did it take you
This is a difficult question to answer. I find that it takes twice as long to do a job while filming. And I had a few beers since I did the job, so I don't recall. But I would estimate 3 hours without filming. Maybe someone else can chime in on this question.
Took me 5 hours to get it out and I'm on my 4th hour putting it in.
10 or 12 hours for me on the gravel driveway
First time I did it took me 6 hours. Just did it again 140k miles later and it took me just under 3 hours.
Good job tanks for show starter
Don't jack up engine!!
Buen video un like
Stop with the vintage crap it’s not vintage
I'll edit the video just for you. Thanks for watching, I hope you learned something helpful that added value to your day.
What is the engine jack point? I can't see in the video where it is, thanks. I've got 5.7 with 4WD.
I put a jack under the oil pan with a small piece of wood to distribute the load. It does not take much pressure to lift the engine.
Any tips on lining up the mount bolt again? We have tried changing jack geometries up and down. Thinking about loosening up drivers side mount bolt to see if that helps.
@@davedrummond7309 I didn't have any issues lowering the engine back into place. I hope you find a good solution.
@@rwgnad thanks. I loosened the driver's side and jacked it up again this allowed it to line back up. Thanks again for the help. We are back on the road.
Hi… just wondering how far do you have to lift the motor mount? Do you have to unbolt the other side too?
You only need to lift it 1 inch or so, you do not need to loosen the drivers side mount.
@@rwgnad Thank you!! Much appreciate! Happy Thnksgiving!! Will subscribe! 👍🏽👍🏽
You sir, are the man haha