Have you seen or tried 3D Gloop? I know you stated adhesives that melt the plastic, but I've found that many people who said they've tried 3D Gloop are using it wrong, where they try to use it like super glue where it should be applied similarly to boat adhesive. The key is to apply it to both sides you'd like to weld (as it's more of a chemical weld) let it sit for second (usually by the time you apply to both sides it's already to go), then adhere the parts together and clamp it if possible. The adhesion, if done properly, it should be an extremely strong weld, I've seen tug of wars where the failure point wasn't the weld but the layer lines. I've also seen it used to put together and 3D printed 18' sword. Big bonus, you don't risk burning yourself, and it can be used to help with bed adhesion and part smoothing.
I just used 3D gloop for the first time. I used it properly on one piece, and improperly on all the others (I got lazy). Now I have to go back and reattach all the parts I did improperly because they didn't hold well enough.
That actually helped a lot. I gave PLA welding a try a while ago and it didn't really work for me. Now I've learned that I was way too careful and not intrusive enough. I'll give it another try soon. Thanks for the video!
I seriously just thought about the welding method like 2 days ago after watching your previous video on this. I'm making my first iron man helmet and I'm to the sanding/welding stage now. Thanks for all the tips and tricks. I really appreciate it.
Just wanted to let you know that this method saved me. I am making a Bo-Katan helmet for a friend of mine. I used epoxy to put the pieces together and while I was sanding it, I put too much pressure and the epoxy let go separating the front from the back on one side. After watching your video I was able to weld the pieces back together and it is stronger than ever. I went over the entire inside of the helmet welding all the seams so this wouldn't happen again. I am so glad and thankful that you posted this video. Now I have a tried and true method of attaching parts together permanently. FYI, I subscribed to your channel. Thanks again.
Thak you i finally got a 3d printer and you have helped me more than anyone else I have found! I only 3 days in and i already feel confident in making a larger project. (3d printer clock shelf 5ft x 2ft)
Thanks so much! I just started printing my first costume after having worked with Pepakura and foam for a few years. This video saved me during a recent print fail on a larger part that I was able to save because of what I learned here. Your videos have helped me more than you know. Thanks again!
I dropped my mjolnir and the hammer head cracked in half. I looked at pictures of the RAW print and noticed a huge under extrusion line and that is exactly where it cracked. I welded it together and it is t perfect so I am glad you made this video. Keep up the great work man
I love this guy, I have had so many problems with welding and now I know how to do it without messing up the plastic! I also met this guy at summer con! Really friendly!
I came over you yesterday in RUclips shorts and now I’m watching you the hole time Your my favourite RUclipsr Now I am thinking to get my first 3D printing machine The CR 10s Keep the good work on!😀
Thanks Frank you've been a great help to my 3D printing. I'm currently making my biggest and longest print, the Razor Crest. I was going to glue in together, but I watched this and now I got a cheap iron to weld it together. I going to practice on some failed prints first. wish me luck.
I loved these videos since my cr10 broke down after 1 month of printing 1 benchmark boat and your video on best 3D printers was great and the cosplaying videos deserve a series if I say so
I used this video to help me with my Legend Of Zelda Master Sword I was making and it helped a ton. Thank you it made the person i was making it for very happy and now they dont want to buy things from anyone else.
I'm so glad I found this video since I bought my first 3D printer. I was planning on 3D printing my costume, but never thought of how to connect 3D parts together. Now... I feel more confident on continuing my project :D
Frank thank you so much for making this video! I've been refreshing your channel page for a week and I'm right at the stage that I need to weld a mask I'm making. This video could not come at a better time. Thank you so much!
From testing and doing my first 3d printing helmet, I saw that a lower temperature (like 180 C to 190C) helps make the welds and seams less messy. That said this video helped me a lot and gave me confidence to finally do it myself.
You are clearly very good at this. A note on lining up the pieces, if you design your own parts, you can create joints, like in woodworking, or simple keying to align the parts. It would not work as well on the flat parts shown here, but I mention it since you didn't bring it up.
Just subscribed. This is the most useful video I have watched so far! I never even thought about using a soldering iron to bond my prints together! Thank you.
I was just thinking the other day about ways to attach buckles, etc. to armor and helmets. The raft idea is genius and keeps even more waste out of my trash. Thanks so much for sharing, and keep up the great work!
This is also an excellent method for repairing broken or cracked ABS parts on your car too, like bumper cracks or tabs. Just as long as the work is done outside or in a very well ventilated space to avoid the fumes. Great video!
Just recently made the acquisition of a 3D printer and I was looking for some tips and stuff around RUclips and I must say, you're like a teacher to me now, just learned something new I probably would've never thought of even if I already used that tool for foam carving in cosplays, thanks !
I would just like to let you know that your absolutely awesome. Thank you so much for your time in educating us! I've seen and learned more from your videos than anybody else. Thank you again and keep up the good work!
I know this video is a year old, but man Frank you are amazing with this stuff. I just got into 3d printing very recently, and am already loving the hobby. I'm currently working on an Assassins Creed Valhalla axe, and this was my go to video for welding it together. So fare your techniques have been extremely helpful with the assembly of it. I cant wait to see how the finished product turns out! Also you have inspired me to want to make a Hulk buster Iron Man suite. Ive already begun the research, and am trying to develop it from scratch using tinkercad, and meshmixer! Again thanks for your content!
Perfect timing. I'm going to try to weld my Mando helmet this weekend. The only thing I will say, is that I wish we had a tutorial for something that has a lot of detail on the outside. Like the Black Panther mask that you talked about
Cool bananas my dude! At the age of 70, I've been doing this sort of repair since I was a teen! Never thougt to make a video about it. But to see someone as enthusiastic as yourself demo it is great. Many different plastics can be repaired this way, including your car bumper! So as long as you have some extra material of the same kind, plastic welding can save your parts! Some plastics behave better than others though, and yes, the fumes are most often TOXIC, so you need windows open and a fan pulling that smoke away from you and other peeps AND ANIMALS! Good job buddy!
i'm about to try 3D welding for the first time. i watched your previous tutorial but this updated one came just in time!! thank you! i'm making rengoku's katana btw :)
Thanks for ALLLLL you share!! 💯 ❤ YOU have made US confident in printing. From where to start, actually taking the leap TO start and continuing to learn. Thank you thank you! 👏👏👏👏 You are very talented!
You are the best Frankie. You inspired me to make my first helmet this week. Turned out great. I tell everyone about your channel. Wasn’t an Ironman mask but a daredevil mask. I knew I didn’t have the skills for an Ironman just yet. Thanks for all the great tips Frankie. All in one print. Used the slicing before printing idea and I bought the armor smith program you spoke about. This channel rocks ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
I just want to say you are my favorite 3d printing content creator and if it wasn't for you I probably wouldn't have jumped into this hobby that I love so much and is so therapeutic.
This is a great 2.0 video! I’ve been using this method every since your original video and it works great! I would love to see a 2.0 video on sanding if you ever have time for that. Also, side note, your camera positioning and lighting while showing the welding portions is greatly improved and looks great!
Thanks for another great video. I’m just starting to make larger props like Aquaman’s trident and Loki’s sceptre, and thought I’d need a big metal rod to reinforce it, but this video has really helped.
Dude. I'm new to 3d printing and my first print is a flight helmet prop.... I've used superglue to fuse then 2 part resin'd the inside shell.. and used bondo glazing ont he outside seams. and it keeps falling apart. I've been pulling my hair out. Just came across this and it was insanely helpful. I have a wood burner that is perfect for this. THANK YOU.
I once talked to a fellow cosplayer about welding parts and he used S shaped metal staples and heated them up with his soldering iron and pressed those in the parts first to make a sort of mechanical connection and then smooth it over with more spare plastic. The S shapes clinged more to the hollow internal structure than just molten plastic (he said). You should try this.
Liked and subscribed after watching 1 video. You have TOO much good content and have no idea where to start. Seriously, I have 5 tabs open right now with you videos. I will soon be attempting to print out a football helmet for my dad. (About half the size. )
Hi Franky I'm still new to the 3d printing but I really appreciate your time with how you explain how to make 3d prints and I'm hoping to get my new creality cr10 s pro v2 set up an running thanks again Tim
Last week, one half of my 3d printed pieces actually failed due to a power outage. I tried my best to recover it using the other video you made. I also ordered one of those adjustable soldering irons from Amazon as well. As of typing this message, I'm testing out this method on another print that failed on me last year as a practice run before I get to the real thing. I also learned in the past that if I were to take a cotton swab, while the metal piece was still hot, and I can clean it off like I would do on my 3d printed nozzle. If successful, I should be able to smooth it out, but as for added rigidity, I might be better off casting it in a different material.
Pen welding is pretty useful on smaller/thinner parts, as the molten material that the pen extrudes is enough to melt the part itself. If not, pushing the pen's nozzle into the part definitely helps. There's also the friction welding trick where you print a 3-4mm thick, 4-5cm long cylinder laid on its side, and put it in a Dremel. Then you drill it onto the part that you want to weld, and the friction melts both the part and the cylinder.
I had fun welding two bits together plus the extra filament left over. I usually weld fursuit head in either PLA or TPU. It came out really strong (and flexable with TPU). Fun is over, next teeth and eyes, you can weld them too.
I thought of doing this and was wondering how strong the welds would be if I just used plastic and no adhesive, thanks for showing the few examples you did. gave me the insight I needed to start my first bigger than a figurine project
Simple, yet super effective. A similar solution I saw (similar in creativity, anyhow) was using a 3D printed 'glue' stick and a glue gun! I guess the glue gun temp is quite close to PLA and so it can be used in place of glue, but I like your solution more! The glue gun solution is still additive and could get in the way of a clean look whereas this creates a solid union between the two pieces that can easily be manipulated then post-processed! Fantastic stuff!
Just got a Qidi X-plus 3 two says ago. Just tried to print out a black panther helmet. I have been watching your videos, and it's helped a lot. Go big or go home. Thanks for the videos
PLA welding has helped so many props and projects I've done. It very much is trial and error to learn how to control the heat without ruining the part or burning yourself. Good video! and anyone who pronounces the L in soldering iron is wrong!
This is an amazing 2.0 update video. The quality, the talking, the camera angles showing what to do. It's all amazing. Thank you for your content it's so helpful
I'm a practitioner of the ancient art of *_gunpla building_* and we always have a fix. Plastic Cement is a go to. It works similar to plastic welding, but instead of being heat based adhesion, it's chemical. The cement actively melts down the plastic, then bonds to itself as it dries. When pushing the pieces together, ensure some of the cement comes out the sides then leave it to try. Doing that will make a ridge between the parts that can easily be sanded down after the parts finish bonding. We use it primarily to remove seam lines left between parts on a poorly engineered build. They're common on the sides of the head and running up and down the forearms. I'm pretty sure I should be able to do something similar just scaled up for the print.
@@mikemorgan9224 Gunpla are made primarily of ABS, and I use Tamiya plastic cement to bond pieces. I think you can print in ABS so long as you also have either good ventilation or a fume hood, I heard printing with ABS can get a bit stinky. If you're dead set on using PLA, Tamiya might still be an option. I haven't tried it though, so only test it out on small prints first, then scale up with scrap. If that doesn't work, plumbers cement is basically just stronger shit, so that might work instead When all else fails, try acrylic glue, that shit will work on anything
I made a full size Buster Blade and I just couldn't get it to be sturdy enough for me to trust it, thanks for helping with that, I'm gonna start work on it tomorrow
Working on a Goblin Slayer cosplay rn! I like to make long stitches perpendicular to the seam with the soldering iron, fill the stitches with a 3D pen, flatten everything with the iron, and then melt the seam together with the iron. Makes the weld a lot wider and more supportive imo.
Just saw this video again and im going to try this method to weld my DarkSaber blade into one piece because i dont trust the 2 bolts i have in it right now. Thank you for the tip Frank
i find the 3d printing pen to be a nice addition to this for refilling the area with pla, i just use the scraps i have, feed em through there, fill the gaps and then go over it with the soldering iron :)
can you show the sanding process after welding? I feel like that would be super useful and give me more confidence in welding on the front part that people will be seeing. much love to this channel!
I can feel the smell just by watching how you weld the pieces together. For big parts you can probably also design/add somekind of dovetail to help join the parts.
I really appreciate how you take the time out of your day to record, edit and post these videos! I just made some calipers to measure myself for my first 3D printed cosplay, but I had to make the calipers in two pieces. I will DEFINITELY be using this info to fuse everything from now on. Thanks man! 😁👍
I wish you allowed us to save these vids to a playlist so we can re-reference them quicker. Plus, you'd get more views as I watch the vid back 100 times in a week!
I haven’t gotten a 3d printer yet, but I definitely like this idea for my first construction. I want to print out a court of owl mask in honor of my favorite DC Comic cult. I’m sure this will be very helpful. Thank you!
Just completed my republic commando helmet welding only. It’s so common sense that I’m astounded how fast 26 pieces instantly turned into an actual helmet. I’d say 1.0-1.5hours of welding and filling with extra filament for gaps. Thanks man…..
I actually used both of these methods- I normally put the 3d pen in the crease of spots then use my hot knife and slide along and super smooth it out that way- also guys if you save your "rafts" and they are pretty thin- you can use them like patches as well- I will say this Franky should practice and use a 3d pen a lil more.. Ive added some really cool and extra things with mine- and I think it would help you out on the small details!
Thank you so much for this one Frank, your game has stepped up so much since the original tutorials and this video was absolutely brilliant. Concise, descriptive, excellent visual aid showing the full process, examples and experience all showcased. I'm working on Darth Vader, and his Dome and Shoulder Armor (possibly the shins too) are going to be the first things I've printed too large for my CR10-S V3 - this video will get me over that hurdle :) Curious to see if you've done anything more with PETG lately, as I'm considering it over PLA for the heat resistance and alleged sanding ease!
Thank you so much for this, I'm working on a Captain Rex Phase 2 armour at the moment. One of the things I have done is use your tutorial from Meshmixer to cut plain a thin small piece of the print to use as a raft to add an internal brace after welding say a chest or back plate together. The biggest problem I have had is sizing. I've downloaded Armoursmith and now I have to learn the programme . By the look of your tutorial on AS it's going to take time ,but have benefits in the end. ThNk you Frank regards Graham
Something way off topic sorry. I upgraded my hot end on my ender 5 plus, went to all the trouble of installing it and now I’m having trouble increasing the “maxtemp” from the defalt 275c to 315c. I went through the PID calibration process already and saved it to the EEPROM. So im good there and can run normal. Just need to increase temp for carbon fiber polycarbonate. Ive been using Pronterface. Im trying to figure out how to use microsoft visual studio but im just lost man. Lmao if you made videos on printers and DIY upgrade how to videos, I’d for sure watch them. When you get into firmware and gcode is when things get tough. Anyway… You’re an inspiration bro. You make really high quality end products. 👍🏼
Without you, I don’t think a lot of us would’ve made the jump into 3D printing. I repeatedly watched your videos to troubleshoot things!
I watched him before I got my printer now rewatching all the videos to know what I need to for my printer
^^^^ this is straight up facts
Yup I just started and frank has been awesome
Have you seen or tried 3D Gloop? I know you stated adhesives that melt the plastic, but I've found that many people who said they've tried 3D Gloop are using it wrong, where they try to use it like super glue where it should be applied similarly to boat adhesive. The key is to apply it to both sides you'd like to weld (as it's more of a chemical weld) let it sit for second (usually by the time you apply to both sides it's already to go), then adhere the parts together and clamp it if possible.
The adhesion, if done properly, it should be an extremely strong weld, I've seen tug of wars where the failure point wasn't the weld but the layer lines. I've also seen it used to put together and 3D printed 18' sword.
Big bonus, you don't risk burning yourself, and it can be used to help with bed adhesion and part smoothing.
I just used 3D gloop for the first time. I used it properly on one piece, and improperly on all the others (I got lazy). Now I have to go back and reattach all the parts I did improperly because they didn't hold well enough.
You're always a great help to the 3d-printing community, sir. ☺️
I verry much agree
@@tropicplace767 facts
That actually helped a lot. I gave PLA welding a try a while ago and it didn't really work for me. Now I've learned that I was way too careful and not intrusive enough. I'll give it another try soon. Thanks for the video!
I seriously just thought about the welding method like 2 days ago after watching your previous video on this. I'm making my first iron man helmet and I'm to the sanding/welding stage now. Thanks for all the tips and tricks. I really appreciate it.
Your attention to detail in delivering experience based information is much appreciated. Thank you Sir!
Just wanted to let you know that this method saved me. I am making a Bo-Katan helmet for a friend of mine. I used epoxy to put the pieces together and while I was sanding it, I put too much pressure and the epoxy let go separating the front from the back on one side. After watching your video I was able to weld the pieces back together and it is stronger than ever. I went over the entire inside of the helmet welding all the seams so this wouldn't happen again. I am so glad and thankful that you posted this video. Now I have a tried and true method of attaching parts together permanently. FYI, I subscribed to your channel. Thanks again.
Thak you i finally got a 3d printer and you have helped me more than anyone else I have found! I only 3 days in and i already feel confident in making a larger project. (3d printer clock shelf 5ft x 2ft)
I just started using this technique and honestly its the best way to get a strong weld between pieces. Love it.
Thanks so much! I just started printing my first costume after having worked with Pepakura and foam for a few years. This video saved me during a recent print fail on a larger part that I was able to save because of what I learned here. Your videos have helped me more than you know. Thanks again!
Videos like this is why I always recommend people to check out this channel. Super helpful and keeps things simple.
I dropped my mjolnir and the hammer head cracked in half. I looked at pictures of the RAW print and noticed a huge under extrusion line and that is exactly where it cracked. I welded it together and it is t perfect so I am glad you made this video. Keep up the great work man
Just found this video searching for PLA welding. Thank you, makes my task easier.
I love this guy, I have had so many problems with welding and now I know how to do it without messing up the plastic! I also met this guy at summer con! Really friendly!
I came over you yesterday in RUclips shorts and now I’m watching you the hole time
Your my favourite RUclipsr
Now I am thinking to get my first 3D printing machine
The CR 10s
Keep the good work on!😀
Thanks Frank you've been a great help to my 3D printing. I'm currently making my biggest and longest print, the Razor Crest. I was going to glue in together, but I watched this and now I got a cheap iron to weld it together. I going to practice on some failed prints first. wish me luck.
I loved these videos since my cr10 broke down after 1 month of printing 1 benchmark boat and your video on best 3D printers was great and the cosplaying videos deserve a series if I say so
I used this video to help me with my Legend Of Zelda Master Sword I was making and it helped a ton. Thank you it made the person i was making it for very happy and now they dont want to buy things from anyone else.
I'm so glad I found this video since I bought my first 3D printer. I was planning on 3D printing my costume, but never thought of how to connect 3D parts together. Now... I feel more confident on continuing my project :D
Frank thank you so much for making this video! I've been refreshing your channel page for a week and I'm right at the stage that I need to weld a mask I'm making. This video could not come at a better time. Thank you so much!
From testing and doing my first 3d printing helmet, I saw that a lower temperature (like 180 C to 190C) helps make the welds and seams less messy. That said this video helped me a lot and gave me confidence to finally do it myself.
You are clearly very good at this.
A note on lining up the pieces, if you design your own parts, you can create joints, like in woodworking, or simple keying to align the parts. It would not work as well on the flat parts shown here, but I mention it since you didn't bring it up.
Just subscribed. This is the most useful video I have watched so far! I never even thought about using a soldering iron to bond my prints together! Thank you.
I got a 3d printer because of you and am currently working on making all of the staffs from The Owl House. Thanks for the inspiration and info Frank!
That's such a great idea! Will you be posting pictures anywhere?
Getting ready to try this. I printed an Iron man helm and broke a piece. Thank you for the awesome tips for starting my pla welding journey.
Love the way you fully explain the "how to" !
I was just thinking the other day about ways to attach buckles, etc. to armor and helmets. The raft idea is genius and keeps even more waste out of my trash. Thanks so much for sharing, and keep up the great work!
😲 Now I know how I'm attaching the parts of my suit together
This is also an excellent method for repairing broken or cracked ABS parts on your car too, like bumper cracks or tabs. Just as long as the work is done outside or in a very well ventilated space to avoid the fumes. Great video!
Just recently made the acquisition of a 3D printer and I was looking for some tips and stuff around RUclips and I must say, you're like a teacher to me now, just learned something new I probably would've never thought of even if I already used that tool for foam carving in cosplays, thanks !
I would just like to let you know that your absolutely awesome. Thank you so much for your time in educating us! I've seen and learned more from your videos than anybody else. Thank you again and keep up the good work!
I know this video is a year old, but man Frank you are amazing with this stuff. I just got into 3d printing very recently, and am already loving the hobby. I'm currently working on an Assassins Creed Valhalla axe, and this was my go to video for welding it together. So fare your techniques have been extremely helpful with the assembly of it. I cant wait to see how the finished product turns out! Also you have inspired me to want to make a Hulk buster Iron Man suite. Ive already begun the research, and am trying to develop it from scratch using tinkercad, and meshmixer! Again thanks for your content!
Are we going to get to see the MK5 helmet you have hinted at before? Thanks for the great content! Saving for an ender 3 Pro now. 👍
Love your content. Thanks, Frank, for being a positive influence for us!
You make the best 3D prints and you help so much cause my printer nearly broke but I watched your videos and I fixed it so thanks
This was super helpful! I just finished printing my first iron man helmet and this is going to help a lot!
Perfect timing. I'm going to try to weld my Mando helmet this weekend. The only thing I will say, is that I wish we had a tutorial for something that has a lot of detail on the outside. Like the Black Panther mask that you talked about
Great video and the post credit time lapse with the Gundam helmet is a nice touch.
Cool bananas my dude! At the age of 70, I've been doing this sort of repair since I was a teen! Never thougt to make a video about it. But to see someone as enthusiastic as yourself demo it is great. Many different plastics can be repaired this way, including your car bumper! So as long as you have some extra material of the same kind, plastic welding can save your parts! Some plastics behave better than others though, and yes, the fumes are most often TOXIC, so you need windows open and a fan pulling that smoke away from you and other peeps AND ANIMALS!
Good job buddy!
Just got a CR10S to start printing star wars costumes. Perfect timing for this video!
i'm about to try 3D welding for the first time. i watched your previous tutorial but this updated one came just in time!! thank you! i'm making rengoku's katana btw :)
Thanks for ALLLLL you share!! 💯 ❤ YOU have made US confident in printing. From where to start, actually taking the leap TO start and continuing to learn. Thank you thank you! 👏👏👏👏 You are very talented!
You are the best Frankie. You inspired me to make my first helmet this week. Turned out great. I tell everyone about your channel. Wasn’t an Ironman mask but a daredevil mask. I knew I didn’t have the skills for an Ironman just yet. Thanks for all the great tips Frankie. All in one print. Used the slicing before printing idea and I bought the armor smith program you spoke about. This channel rocks ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
I just want to say you are my favorite 3d printing content creator and if it wasn't for you I probably wouldn't have jumped into this hobby that I love so much and is so therapeutic.
This is a great 2.0 video! I’ve been using this method every since your original video and it works great! I would love to see a 2.0 video on sanding if you ever have time for that. Also, side note, your camera positioning and lighting while showing the welding portions is greatly improved and looks great!
Thanks for another great video. I’m just starting to make larger props like Aquaman’s trident and Loki’s sceptre, and thought I’d need a big metal rod to reinforce it, but this video has really helped.
You are incredible! Thank you for helping us all!
I’m getting ready to buy my first printer and your channel is teaching me so much
Can you recommend a printer for a first timer wanting to print a proton pack in addition to other props
Dude. I'm new to 3d printing and my first print is a flight helmet prop.... I've used superglue to fuse then 2 part resin'd the inside shell.. and used bondo glazing ont he outside seams.
and it keeps falling apart. I've been pulling my hair out.
Just came across this and it was insanely helpful. I have a wood burner that is perfect for this.
THANK YOU.
Just started printing the first section of my prime 3 Samus helmet, thanks for all your help!
I once talked to a fellow cosplayer about welding parts and he used S shaped metal staples and heated them up with his soldering iron and pressed those in the parts first to make a sort of mechanical connection and then smooth it over with more spare plastic.
The S shapes clinged more to the hollow internal structure than just molten plastic (he said).
You should try this.
Frank found a use for the leftover PLA! Great idea
I learned about this form you a few days ago. I just bought a wood burner and will try this when I get some more parts of my Mando helmet done
Perfect timing man I just finished my first iron man helmet keep up the good work
Ran here!!! This video is so helpful and informative!! thanks Frank!!
Liked and subscribed after watching 1 video. You have TOO much good content and have no idea where to start. Seriously, I have 5 tabs open right now with you videos. I will soon be attempting to print out a football helmet for my dad. (About half the size. )
Hi Franky I'm still new to the 3d printing but I really appreciate your time with how you explain how to make 3d prints and I'm hoping to get my new creality cr10 s pro v2 set up an running thanks again Tim
Last week, one half of my 3d printed pieces actually failed due to a power outage. I tried my best to recover it using the other video you made. I also ordered one of those adjustable soldering irons from Amazon as well. As of typing this message, I'm testing out this method on another print that failed on me last year as a practice run before I get to the real thing. I also learned in the past that if I were to take a cotton swab, while the metal piece was still hot, and I can clean it off like I would do on my 3d printed nozzle. If successful, I should be able to smooth it out, but as for added rigidity, I might be better off casting it in a different material.
Pen welding is pretty useful on smaller/thinner parts, as the molten material that the pen extrudes is enough to melt the part itself. If not, pushing the pen's nozzle into the part definitely helps.
There's also the friction welding trick where you print a 3-4mm thick, 4-5cm long cylinder laid on its side, and put it in a Dremel. Then you drill it onto the part that you want to weld, and the friction melts both the part and the cylinder.
My one stop shop for tips and tricks 🤙🏻
I had fun welding two bits together plus the extra filament left over. I usually weld fursuit head in either PLA or TPU. It came out really strong (and flexable with TPU). Fun is over, next teeth and eyes, you can weld them too.
I thought of doing this and was wondering how strong the welds would be if I just used plastic and no adhesive, thanks for showing the few examples you did. gave me the insight I needed to start my first bigger than a figurine project
Simple, yet super effective.
A similar solution I saw (similar in creativity, anyhow) was using a 3D printed 'glue' stick and a glue gun! I guess the glue gun temp is quite close to PLA and so it can be used in place of glue, but I like your solution more! The glue gun solution is still additive and could get in the way of a clean look whereas this creates a solid union between the two pieces that can easily be manipulated then post-processed!
Fantastic stuff!
Another great video Frank. I would love to see more updated 3d printing tutorials and all that. Keep up the good work!
Just got a Qidi X-plus 3 two says ago. Just tried to print out a black panther helmet. I have been watching your videos, and it's helped a lot. Go big or go home. Thanks for the videos
PLA welding has helped so many props and projects I've done. It very much is trial and error to learn how to control the heat without ruining the part or burning yourself.
Good video! and anyone who pronounces the L in soldering iron is wrong!
This is an amazing 2.0 update video. The quality, the talking, the camera angles showing what to do. It's all amazing.
Thank you for your content it's so helpful
I've been needing this video forever now thank you
Hey dude thanks to you i'm making my first ever clone trooper cosplay armor on my printer. You inspired me.
Welding is always a far superior connecting method. Whether, metal or plastic.
I'm a practitioner of the ancient art of *_gunpla building_* and we always have a fix. Plastic Cement is a go to.
It works similar to plastic welding, but instead of being heat based adhesion, it's chemical. The cement actively melts down the plastic, then bonds to itself as it dries. When pushing the pieces together, ensure some of the cement comes out the sides then leave it to try. Doing that will make a ridge between the parts that can easily be sanded down after the parts finish bonding. We use it primarily to remove seam lines left between parts on a poorly engineered build. They're common on the sides of the head and running up and down the forearms.
I'm pretty sure I should be able to do something similar just scaled up for the print.
Is there a brand of plastic cement you prefer to use? I usually weld PLA, but would love to try this to see the difference!
@@mikemorgan9224 Gunpla are made primarily of ABS, and I use Tamiya plastic cement to bond pieces. I think you can print in ABS so long as you also have either good ventilation or a fume hood, I heard printing with ABS can get a bit stinky.
If you're dead set on using PLA, Tamiya might still be an option. I haven't tried it though, so only test it out on small prints first, then scale up with scrap. If that doesn't work, plumbers cement is basically just stronger shit, so that might work instead
When all else fails, try acrylic glue, that shit will work on anything
Hugely helpful video. Working on a katana for my brother and would have used glue if I hadn’t seen you first video. Thanks for the help!
I made a full size Buster Blade and I just couldn't get it to be sturdy enough for me to trust it, thanks for helping with that, I'm gonna start work on it tomorrow
Working on a Goblin Slayer cosplay rn! I like to make long stitches perpendicular to the seam with the soldering iron, fill the stitches with a 3D pen, flatten everything with the iron, and then melt the seam together with the iron. Makes the weld a lot wider and more supportive imo.
With my solder iron I used a nail with a nice sized head that was quite flat and it really helped when smoothing seams out.
Just saw this video again and im going to try this method to weld my DarkSaber blade into one piece because i dont trust the 2 bolts i have in it right now. Thank you for the tip Frank
Could not have made my iron man suit without learning how to pla weld first. It's a must. I've learned a flat tip is must easier.
i find the 3d printing pen to be a nice addition to this for refilling the area with pla, i just use the scraps i have, feed em through there, fill the gaps and then go over it with the soldering iron :)
can you show the sanding process after welding? I feel like that would be super useful and give me more confidence in welding on the front part that people will be seeing. much love to this channel!
Thank you sir!!! Great tip. I will definitely be using this method
I can feel the smell just by watching how you weld the pieces together. For big parts you can probably also design/add somekind of dovetail to help join the parts.
Another great and informative video, good stuff as always.
I really appreciate how you take the time out of your day to record, edit and post these videos! I just made some calipers to measure myself for my first 3D printed cosplay, but I had to make the calipers in two pieces. I will DEFINITELY be using this info to fuse everything from now on. Thanks man! 😁👍
Love your videos, always very helpful and good information. Ill be trying this method for an updated Sabine Wren helmet
I love watching your stuff - i dont know where you have the time, or how many machines you have. but thank you
Useful information, as always. Thank you.
Good thing I saved this video, I need to fuse together my scorpion mask that was so close to finishing 🙃
I wish you allowed us to save these vids to a playlist so we can re-reference them quicker. Plus, you'd get more views as I watch the vid back 100 times in a week!
I am going to get a 3d printer soon so I have been watching your videos and I really like them so I subscribe and your videos will really help
I haven’t gotten a 3d printer yet, but I definitely like this idea for my first construction. I want to print out a court of owl mask in honor of my favorite DC Comic cult. I’m sure this will be very helpful. Thank you!
Just completed my republic commando helmet welding only. It’s so common sense that I’m astounded how fast 26 pieces instantly turned into an actual helmet. I’d say 1.0-1.5hours of welding and filling with extra filament for gaps.
Thanks man…..
I actually used both of these methods- I normally put the 3d pen in the crease of spots then use my hot knife and slide along and super smooth it out that way- also guys if you save your "rafts" and they are pretty thin- you can use them like patches as well- I will say this Franky should practice and use a 3d pen a lil more.. Ive added some really cool and extra things with mine- and I think it would help you out on the small details!
Thank you for the awesome tips 🙌 I'll definitely be giving this a shot
I will be giving this a try on the jet pack I printed. It seems a little similar to TIG welding, which I’m familiar with.
Thank you for this video. Now my failed prints, supports, and pla strings, now have a new purpose.
Thank you so much for this one Frank, your game has stepped up so much since the original tutorials and this video was absolutely brilliant. Concise, descriptive, excellent visual aid showing the full process, examples and experience all showcased.
I'm working on Darth Vader, and his Dome and Shoulder Armor (possibly the shins too) are going to be the first things I've printed too large for my CR10-S V3 - this video will get me over that hurdle :)
Curious to see if you've done anything more with PETG lately, as I'm considering it over PLA for the heat resistance and alleged sanding ease!
I like woodworking, and I had a wood burner similar to that. Also, you really want to get the glue to soak in and almost fuse it together.
Thank you so much for this, I'm working on a Captain Rex Phase 2 armour at the moment.
One of the things I have done is use your tutorial from Meshmixer to cut plain a thin small piece of the print to use as a raft to add an internal brace after welding say a chest or back plate together. The biggest problem I have had is sizing. I've downloaded Armoursmith and now I have to learn the programme . By the look of your tutorial on AS it's going to take time ,but have benefits in the end. ThNk you Frank regards Graham
Great video mate. Definitely very helpful. Thanks
Something way off topic sorry. I upgraded my hot end on my ender 5 plus, went to all the trouble of installing it and now I’m having trouble increasing the “maxtemp” from the defalt 275c to 315c. I went through the PID calibration process already and saved it to the EEPROM. So im good there and can run normal. Just need to increase temp for carbon fiber polycarbonate. Ive been using Pronterface. Im trying to figure out how to use microsoft visual studio but im just lost man. Lmao if you made videos on printers and DIY upgrade how to videos, I’d for sure watch them. When you get into firmware and gcode is when things get tough. Anyway… You’re an inspiration bro. You make really high quality end products. 👍🏼
I melt in staples or steel mesh along the seams when I'm able. It gives it some additional rigidity to the seam.