Ive been spray custom painting over 30 years, with rattle cans pop them in hot water, you need your area to be at least 21° for the thinner to evaporate. Popping the cans in hot water warms the paint, as you spray it gets cool, which in turn cools the paint, so warm cans you get better flow and the thinner evaporate alot quicker, which stops the crinkle effect. The spots you are seeing are known as fish eyes this cause by any thing from dust which has any wax or silicon in it, so if you do have a paint area dont have any silicon products in the area or on your hands, but if you do get fish eyes get a small brush wait till the paint has flashed off (gone dull) then paint some more paint in the fish eye, sometimes this works but sometimes you need to move the brush with the paint like small scrubbing motion, leave it to flash off again then recoat as normal repeat if the fish eyes come back..but if you wash down your part with panel wipe before hand you souldnt get fish eyes, also use tack rags they help pick up any dust on you item, these too work better if warm, But hotter your paint area is the better it is with rattle cans, i use 2 pack paint which need a harder to go off, getting a glass finish with that is super easy but you are talking more money and equipment.
Hey guys, I'm a residential painter looking to 3d print and paint as a hobby! This was a great place to start for learning tips and tricks, Thanks! Painting tips- if your project has a paint run/drip (ive been spraying for 5+ YEARS and it still happens), use a dry rag and dab the excess paint. WAY easier to sand down and most of the time just fills up with a touch up spray of primer lol Also, heat your paint cans up by leaving them in hot/warm water for a few mins.. gives an easier spray and better finish!
I've been making props for about a year, starting with cardboard, then I got into foam, and in March I 3d printed a mask. I put probably 15 heavy coats of filler primer and then sanded it with 220 after that. It really hid a lot, and gummed up the details.i think it is still great, but filler primer is powerful Edit: I'm at megacon right now and Adam Savage himself signed it and said that it was amazing so it can't be too bad!
This was a great refresher and exactly what I needed for a point in the right direction. Thanks for taking the time to make it! PS: Florescent lighting naturally strobes at the frequency of your A/C power (60hz for NA, 50hz for EU) so depending on your camera it can be very difficult to get rid of the strobing effect in video because the effect is caused by your frame rate not being in sync with your A/C power switching frequency. The easiest way to eliminate this without expensive studio lights is only use either incandescent or LED light sources.
Just starting to paint PLA plastic printed models.. found your side.. The round dots you are referring to at 26:30 ... in the auto industry... are called "Fish Eye's". Those are from contaminants on the item being painted. Your are correct, your oil on your hands most likely caused this. Best to clean each item before painting with some rubbing alcohol or something that will not attack the plastic, but will, however, clean all the impureties on the item... Thanks for explaining so well, how to do this and products... Cheers!!!
Another awesome practical demonstration using real life examples from low detail to high and eplaining the do's/don'ts along with pros and cons of each primer and the benefits of good pre-sanding. I watched this vid after your sanding one, which was great too. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Fyi, the strobing effect in the paint booth is probably coming from your overhead lights. I assume LED? You can try changing your shutter speed on your camera to 1/50s since you are in London right ? Or 1/60s if your in US. You can download a 3rd party camera app if you use your phone to record. Open camera on android works well If you use android. Good video though!
Your page has helped me a lot thanks a bunch. I also find for the panel lines that get lost in the filler primer, I just use my gunpla panel line blade. Works wonders.
Dude! You sand FAST! HAHA!! That is an EXCELLENY review of all the different primers. I've always gone to the filler primer, because my sanding skills are severly lacking! Just gotta keep practicing! :-)
Add acetone to your bondo spot putty and apply with a paint brush. Makes it go on smoother, easier and covers those small detail parts you were taking about.
I agree and nice thing about using Bondo 1 part glazing putty over the primer is that it is laquer based and eats into and bonds with the primer and super easy to sand as opposed to Regular Bondo which is so much harder than the paint. I use the Rustoleum auto laquer primer he used second and the bongo 1 part glazing putty which work great together but have also used it in the Rustoleum filler primer as well which I believe is enamel but don’t quote me on it.
Sorry if I missed it in one of your videos, but how thick of a wall do you suggest on a helmet? I don't wanna be using a power sander and accidentally wear through into the infill layers...
sorry I know this is an old video, but wondering, I have a little bit of lines on my prints, wondering if I should just really sand it down, or did the primer of one of these would you recommend best to get those lines gone or just rely on sanding? i will of course sand, but want to see if clearly which primer worked best? i am backing a star wars armor... and need to make sure the lines are gone.
For the smoothing process. Can you use the wood filler for smaller prints? I’m doing a little model, about the size of a baseball. And it has a few crevasses and intricate details in a few spots
Hey, great vid. Can I ask where you find your 3D print files? I’ve been trying to find decent ones for hours. Specifically mark 3 and mark 42. PLEASE reply…thank you
Ever since you told me what infill pattern you use, I am able to get very strong prints by using only 10% infill and my prints come out super smooth (aside from layer lines, of course)
That Plastic Primer chemically bonds to plastic surfaces. As I understand it, the primer will etch itself to the surface. It's hard to find these days though because Rusto created a hybrid line.(2X) Then they eliminated classic rusto and the plastic lines. But 2x line is an easy go to for most situations.
great job, I am trying to make a dog wheelchair and 3d modeled a bed with four holes, how do you print that and what kind of supports do you use as its a thin as your masks, kindly advise
@@FranklyBuilt Okay I will look a little bit harder through your videos for it. :) would you say the plastic primer was worth it in the end? or stick with the black sand-able primer.
I hear people talk about reinforcing helmets and such for cosplay. Can you do a video on that? I guess people are using epoxy or resin, or fiberglass (with the epoxy of course).
I was just thinking today how much I hate what the filler primer does to my sand paper. (I actually use the filler+sandable and same problem). I gotta try the sandable one!
Frankly Built ahhh ok! It's kinda hard to find these products in Portugal. But will do my very best. Probably start to look all the auto shops in the area 🤔 thank you! Best regards, Sam.
You didn’t mention how to “get back” the detail when using the filler primer. Can you describe that please? As someone who’s rushing to finish a suit of halo armor before Halloween haha
@FranklyBuilt So I just got a 3d printer and I printed a Mandalorian Vambrace and I am not sure if I should sand down the layer lines so that you can’t see them or if I should just leave the layer lines alone. What do you think?
@@FranklyBuiltI’m in the middle of printing a dark trooper droid and have learned I can use wood filler with alcohol and a brush to hide layer lines. I’m gonna give it a try.
Hi i want to ask why is my pla curling and bending after i applied aerosol spray? as if it become soft when sprayed...is it the material problem or maybe i didn't prep it well? Thank you in advance
@@FranklyBuilt yes,i used putty primer brand samurai....but I didn't sand it just coat it with primer and spray paint it....the same thing happened when i use clear plastic primer,it tends to melt/curl/bend... especially prints that have no support at the centre such as a bench or bridge
So ive just started this kind of thing and i think im doing it wrong so i rough sand with a 80 grit to 320 then i prime it use wood filler to fill gaps then sand with a 400 grit then prime again for painting is that right or is there a quicker better process
Hey i got a replica and it broke and i’m taking it apart but the filament it’s stuck and it’s taking ages to get off , what’s a quick way to get it off ?
Get to the point bro. Nearly 7 mins in and only just got to the info related to the title of the video. I didnt come here for suggestions on making a paint booth or settings for my 3d printer. Make your videos more direct bro and i might have watched it all the way thru.
I would but having a good clean environment and dust free with no breezes is a key part to painting in finishing. So if you want to skip steps by all means 🤷♂️ I don’t make my videos for lazy people
Ive been spray custom painting over 30 years, with rattle cans pop them in hot water, you need your area to be at least 21° for the thinner to evaporate. Popping the cans in hot water warms the paint, as you spray it gets cool, which in turn cools the paint, so warm cans you get better flow and the thinner evaporate alot quicker, which stops the crinkle effect. The spots you are seeing are known as fish eyes this cause by any thing from dust which has any wax or silicon in it, so if you do have a paint area dont have any silicon products in the area or on your hands, but if you do get fish eyes get a small brush wait till the paint has flashed off (gone dull) then paint some more paint in the fish eye, sometimes this works but sometimes you need to move the brush with the paint like small scrubbing motion, leave it to flash off again then recoat as normal repeat if the fish eyes come back..but if you wash down your part with panel wipe before hand you souldnt get fish eyes, also use tack rags they help pick up any dust on you item, these too work better if warm, But hotter your paint area is the better it is with rattle cans, i use 2 pack paint which need a harder to go off, getting a glass finish with that is super easy but you are talking more money and equipment.
Hey guys, I'm a residential painter looking to 3d print and paint as a hobby! This was a great place to start for learning tips and tricks, Thanks!
Painting tips- if your project has a paint run/drip (ive been spraying for 5+ YEARS and it still happens), use a dry rag and dab the excess paint. WAY easier to sand down and most of the time just fills up with a touch up spray of primer lol
Also, heat your paint cans up by leaving them in hot/warm water for a few mins.. gives an easier spray and better finish!
I've been making props for about a year, starting with cardboard, then I got into foam, and in March I 3d printed a mask. I put probably 15 heavy coats of filler primer and then sanded it with 220 after that. It really hid a lot, and gummed up the details.i think it is still great, but filler primer is powerful
Edit: I'm at megacon right now and Adam Savage himself signed it and said that it was amazing so it can't be too bad!
Dude, awesome!!
As an industrial designer I've done a lot of model making and this video is so valuable in terms of the tips given. 🙌
This was a great refresher and exactly what I needed for a point in the right direction. Thanks for taking the time to make it!
PS: Florescent lighting naturally strobes at the frequency of your A/C power (60hz for NA, 50hz for EU) so depending on your camera it can be very difficult to get rid of the strobing effect in video because the effect is caused by your frame rate not being in sync with your A/C power switching frequency. The easiest way to eliminate this without expensive studio lights is only use either incandescent or LED light sources.
No problem!
And they ARE led lights lol
Just starting to paint PLA plastic printed models.. found your side.. The round dots you are referring to at 26:30 ... in the auto industry... are called "Fish Eye's". Those are from contaminants on the item being painted. Your are correct, your oil on your hands most likely caused this. Best to clean each item before painting with some rubbing alcohol or something that will not attack the plastic, but will, however, clean all the impureties on the item... Thanks for explaining so well, how to do this and products... Cheers!!!
Hey thanks! No idea it ever had a name haha but always knew it’s 100% user error lol 😂
Another awesome practical demonstration using real life examples from low detail to high and eplaining the do's/don'ts along with pros and cons of each primer and the benefits of good pre-sanding. I watched this vid after your sanding one, which was great too. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Fyi, the strobing effect in the paint booth is probably coming from your overhead lights. I assume LED? You can try changing your shutter speed on your camera to 1/50s since you are in London right ? Or 1/60s if your in US. You can download a 3rd party camera app if you use your phone to record. Open camera on android works well If you use android. Good video though!
Thanks for putting the time into making this method rundown of priming. Helps a lot! Cheers
Literally was thinking about this type of video the other day! Thanks! Video quality is getting so good!
currently building the mark VI, watching all your vids for info and inspiration. Great work!
Thank you for taking the time to make this vid , answered so man questions I had
Your page has helped me a lot thanks a bunch. I also find for the panel lines that get lost in the filler primer, I just use my gunpla panel line blade. Works wonders.
Great video! Very informative frankly. Keep it up man!
Probably want to fix the strobing lights in the video..
Dude! You sand FAST! HAHA!! That is an EXCELLENY review of all the different primers. I've always gone to the filler primer, because my sanding skills are severly lacking! Just gotta keep practicing! :-)
Add acetone to your bondo spot putty and apply with a paint brush. Makes it go on smoother, easier and covers those small detail parts you were taking about.
just a small tip, wetting the floor if youre in a shop helps keep the dust down, we use to do that in a bodyshop without a booth lol
Since this vid is 3 years old are there any things that you would update in regards to how you do them now vs then? Or are things just the same?
Glazing putty is great for filling deeper layer lines or places where supports have been removed from.
I agree and nice thing about using Bondo 1 part glazing putty over the primer is that it is laquer based and eats into and bonds with the primer and super easy to sand as opposed to Regular Bondo which is so much harder than the paint. I use the Rustoleum auto laquer primer he used second and the bongo 1 part glazing putty which work great together but have also used it in the Rustoleum filler primer as well which I believe is enamel but don’t quote me on it.
4:38 nice dexter reference you got there haha
Do you sand again after you prime
Sorry if I missed it in one of your videos, but how thick of a wall do you suggest on a helmet? I don't wanna be using a power sander and accidentally wear through into the infill layers...
Really good comparison, thank you.
sorry I know this is an old video, but wondering, I have a little bit of lines on my prints, wondering if I should just really sand it down, or did the primer of one of these would you recommend best to get those lines gone or just rely on sanding? i will of course sand, but want to see if clearly which primer worked best? i am backing a star wars armor... and need to make sure the lines are gone.
I like the noise when you fast forwarded the sanding part.
Me too! Haha
Is “not a kill room” a dexter reference? If so u just became my fav creator even more so 😂
For the smoothing process. Can you use the wood filler for smaller prints? I’m doing a little model, about the size of a baseball. And it has a few crevasses and intricate details in a few spots
Yesss!! Excited for this one :D Thanks bro!
Hey, great vid. Can I ask where you find your 3D print files? I’ve been trying to find decent ones for hours. Specifically mark 3 and mark 42. PLEASE reply…thank you
Do3d.com
Great info, and for once a really hot guy into 3D printing, that's so incongruous!
Ever since you told me what infill pattern you use, I am able to get very strong prints by using only 10% infill and my prints come out super smooth (aside from layer lines, of course)
What’s the pattern?
@@rbarraza123 Quarter cubic
You should try Gyroid infill now
@@FranklyBuilt I'll give it a shot. WOAAHHHH WE'RE HALF WAY THERE!!! No? Ok
Just curious, I’ve been getting more into the 3d printing hobby and i was wondering if i should paint or prime first
great video !!
So if I have oils on my prints from hands, what would you wipe all the parts with before priming? Also loved the video
Isopropyl alcohol usually works
When your done sanding what do you clean off your print with before primer?
That Plastic Primer chemically bonds to plastic surfaces. As I understand it, the primer will etch itself to the surface. It's hard to find these days though because Rusto created a hybrid line.(2X) Then they eliminated classic rusto and the plastic lines. But 2x line is an easy go to for most situations.
question - also subscribed because the content is awesome.
what color and type of paint are you using? they look perfect.
Thanks! I use mostly rustoleum spray paints
If you don't mind, I have the 2X primer and I'm looking to sand with 400 grit. Is the 2X good for that or should I get the Filler Primer?
So what happened with the MX5 in 2017, Frank?🙂
great job, I am trying to make a dog wheelchair and 3d modeled a bed with four holes, how do you print that and what kind of supports do you use as its a thin as your masks, kindly advise
Was the follow up to this already released? interested to know the results of the plastic filler.
Christopher Wykel this was the follow up. I did release the painting follow up to this.
@@FranklyBuilt Okay I will look a little bit harder through your videos for it. :) would you say the plastic primer was worth it in the end? or stick with the black sand-able primer.
Cool stuff
ive watched most if not all your vids, ive only just noticed you are in the uk hahahahaha
Thanks for all the tips. This will help me a lot.
I hear people talk about reinforcing helmets and such for cosplay. Can you do a video on that? I guess people are using epoxy or resin, or fiberglass (with the epoxy of course).
Hey bro are you using tack cloth or just alcohol on a cloth to clean after sanding?
Just cloth
I was just thinking today how much I hate what the filler primer does to my sand paper. (I actually use the filler+sandable and same problem). I gotta try the sandable one!
If you have applied the last layer of primer, do you still sand it? Or do you leave that last layer and go straight to the paint job? Thanks!
Sand the last layer of primer so you get mechanical
Adhesion you the paint. Sand the primer with 400 grit or higher
Thx! 👍
"Not a kill room" lol! 😆
-Dexter (Series)-
Hi there! One question. That plastic primer is the same as plasty dip? Or m I just ultra wrong about it? Best regards, sam.
No haha plastic primer is primer Spraypaint. Plasti-dip is a sorayable peelable rubber. Worlds different
Frankly Built ahhh ok! It's kinda hard to find these products in Portugal. But will do my very best. Probably start to look all the auto shops in the area 🤔 thank you! Best regards, Sam.
In DIY car paint booths we used a tub of water inside the booth. Think it helps with dust.
You didn’t mention how to “get back” the detail when using the filler primer. Can you describe that please? As someone who’s rushing to finish a suit of halo armor before Halloween haha
Look into a tool callEd a Panel Scriber
@FranklyBuilt So I just got a 3d printer and I printed a Mandalorian Vambrace and I am not sure if I should sand down the layer lines so that you can’t see them or if I should just leave the layer lines alone. What do you think?
Late comment but how do you feel about products like XTC-3D?
I think they’re cool in small doses but can add up super fast
What grain of sand paper do you recommend for these projects? I'm starting some projects and I'm very new to all this
60-2000
@@FranklyBuiltyou mean 200 right?
@@FranklyBuiltI’m in the middle of printing a dark trooper droid and have learned I can use wood filler with alcohol and a brush to hide layer lines. I’m gonna give it a try.
If i don't have a sander machine can i just hand sand it?
explica todo este, un cra el hombre
How did you made mark 85 arc reactor???
Watching this in prep for the iron man helmet I'm currently printing
I have soooo much trouble painting with the duplicolor metal cast, it’s sooo “liquidy” and it drips and it’s super weird, any tips?
Spray way way way way lighter. It’s not normal paint
Do you wash your print before painting, of just wipe away dust from sanding ?
Do you have a video where you paint them?
Yep. How to paint 3D prints
Thanks man for the great content. You should do a patreon I would totally donate
Lol I have one. I even mention it in the video lol thank you my guy.
My Problem is that this (Rust-Oleum) stuff is not rly available in germany. Do you know another Spray i can use?
No I’m very sorry
Schau mal nach Presto Produkten.
Spritzspachtel, Plastic Primer, Filler und Spachtelmassen. Sollte ähnlich sein.
Do you use wood filler before the initial sanding?
No
After sanding do you clean the plastic with iso before priming?
Why do you use wood filler over any other fller?
"not a kill room", yeah right. You are just painting there to cover up other stuff ;-)
Also nice video
Shut up man.
Hi i want to ask why is my pla curling and bending after i applied aerosol spray? as if it become soft when sprayed...is it the material problem or maybe i didn't prep it well? Thank you in advance
Did you use primer?
@@FranklyBuilt yes,i used putty primer brand samurai....but I didn't sand it just coat it with primer and spray paint it....the same thing happened when i use clear plastic primer,it tends to melt/curl/bend... especially prints that have no support at the centre such as a bench or bridge
Im using flashforge pla
That’s odd. Might have to change paint brands
@@FranklyBuilt thanks man,will do
The best moment to use wood filler is before you even started sanding right?
No. You want to sand a little to help give the filler something to adhere to better
@@FranklyBuilt thank you again :)
So ive just started this kind of thing and i think im doing it wrong so i rough sand with a 80 grit to 320 then i prime it use wood filler to fill gaps then sand with a 400 grit then prime again for painting is that right or is there a quicker better process
So what is the best primer to get
There is no best. It’s all situational
@@FranklyBuilt ok but since I'm going to be starting 3d printing soon what are the one or two primers I should buy first
I mean....bro lol 😂 that’s literally what this video is for. Watch it. These are literally my suggestions 😂😂😂
@@FranklyBuilt I know, I was just curious if you had a preference out of them that's what I didn't understand
Do you sand and prime the inside of your parts? Ex: the inside of your helmet
Nah.
Hey i got a replica and it broke and i’m taking it apart but the filament it’s stuck and it’s taking ages to get off , what’s a quick way to get it off ?
Can I use a surgical mask if I spray outside?
When iv given it a coat of filler primer let it dry as it says as I'm sanding it my fingerprints are showing on my model
How do you clean parts (pla) before priming? Do you spray and wipe with Rubbing alcohol, or use warm soapy water?
Yep always clean them
Fyi, that mask your using is better than nothing, but if you paint much in a booth like that, you should use a respirator with filters for painting.
When you started talking prep in car terms, it clicked.
Hey, today i Prime my first print and there are cracks in my coat, any tips?
Sand it back down and use lighter
Coats
Me gustaria ver esto en español... Pero bueno a poner a prueba el inglés jaja
the strobing is from the tube lighting frequ and your recording fps clashing..
Use a heat lamp or the sun and the paint will dry almost as you spray it
Love your videos, man. But can't get over the fact that you're killing yourself with those fumes! Every time! Hope your parents don't see this :)
Haha I KNOW. I’m working on it haha
Lol ASMR speed sanding.
Do as I say, not as I do. This is the way USAF maintence.
My hand is cramping from just watching a short segment of this… good grief…
Any help be great
always wet flat !
thought you might like this, Frank need some help.
Good video but I couldn't watch all the way through because of the strobe lighting. It was giving me a headache.
Sorry it’s an old old video
Nice Job Frank….
Or print a paint gun
So you
1. Sand
2. Prime
3. Paint,???
Wow, so basically, I cant help you with that, and this isnt the video for you.
Get to the point bro. Nearly 7 mins in and only just got to the info related to the title of the video. I didnt come here for suggestions on making a paint booth or settings for my 3d printer. Make your videos more direct bro and i might have watched it all the way thru.
I would but having a good clean environment and dust free with no breezes is a key part to painting in finishing. So if you want to skip steps by all means 🤷♂️ I don’t make my videos for lazy people