Thank you very much. DIY guy here who installed this unit to replace electric radiant heat. This has been the first issue. Cleaned the ignitor and tightened the ground screw. Back in business.
You two are awesome thanks for making this video. Me and my husband were able to fix the problem ,We are having with our water heater do to your video. Thanks 1 million
This is great. I keep getting a 111 on a unit I installed today. I still haven't figured it out, but learning about the clunks and the spark test gave me something to do.
If you get this error on first light, just do what he did and "reboot" it at least once. Had this error... had air just in a 24" appliance hose. It lit on like the 5th click. Honestly can't purge that easily, the rest of the gas lines & manifold were primed and active already. I mean... I can see that they don't want too much gas in there, but the 3 tests for flame happen too rapidly. It needs time to evacuate any air in the lines... and that was with propane geez. I can imagine if you have a 48" appliance hose and natural gas, you'll probably have to restart it 2-3+ times on the first go.
I have a question when I was descaling the machine I used a pump, beforehand i cleaned the filter to catch the debris then I tightened it and it seems like if I over tightened it, the flow of the pump was dramatically reduced to 10% of what it was if I loosened up the small filter. should that have an affect on water flow?
As far as the gas valve self testing, in your video there is a definitive 1 clunk, x’s 3. My units pattern is when hot water is turned on: Fan, clunkCLUNK-clunk-clunkCLUNK-clunk-clunkCLUNK-clunk- Fan RPM’s increase & trouble code is displayed. Also, unit is about 20 years old, so maybe not worth fixing but if there’s a easy fix -maybe a new gas valve or whatever can be recommended as more troubleshooting. I did clean the igniter and flame rods those look good and there is spark at the igniter rod. Any recommendations is greatly appreciated. Thx
If you’re using a 310c 510c model number , this code 111 will happen if you don’t vent it correctly, there is dip switches in the tankless and you need to flip it on , look at the owners manual it will tell you everything.
@@cfonseca12345 Update: I did find a YT video of a tear down so I gutted the unit: burner assembly was dirty, lint in some of the passages on the manifold-those cleaned up pretty good. But once I got looking into the combustion chamber and heat exchange assembly, those were aged and & showed signs of un-repair, so I threw the towel in and ordered a whole new tankless heater. At least I got to learn stuff that I didn’t know before. Thank you
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Thank you very much. DIY guy here who installed this unit to replace electric radiant heat. This has been the first issue. Cleaned the ignitor and tightened the ground screw. Back in business.
You two are awesome thanks for making this video. Me and my husband were able to fix the problem ,We are having with our water heater do to your video. Thanks 1 million
This is great. I keep getting a 111 on a unit I installed today. I still haven't figured it out, but learning about the clunks and the spark test gave me something to do.
Oh my gosh the dude on the left keeps interupting the other dude trying to explain clearly!
If you get this error on first light, just do what he did and "reboot" it at least once. Had this error... had air just in a 24" appliance hose. It lit on like the 5th click. Honestly can't purge that easily, the rest of the gas lines & manifold were primed and active already. I mean... I can see that they don't want too much gas in there, but the 3 tests for flame happen too rapidly. It needs time to evacuate any air in the lines... and that was with propane geez. I can imagine if you have a 48" appliance hose and natural gas, you'll probably have to restart it 2-3+ times on the first go.
I have a question when I was descaling the machine I used a pump, beforehand i cleaned the filter to catch the debris then I tightened it and it seems like if I over tightened it, the flow of the pump was dramatically reduced to 10% of what it was if I loosened up the small filter. should that have an affect on water flow?
What if no spark?
As far as the gas valve self testing, in your video there is a definitive 1 clunk, x’s 3.
My units pattern is when hot water is turned on:
Fan, clunkCLUNK-clunk-clunkCLUNK-clunk-clunkCLUNK-clunk- Fan RPM’s increase & trouble code is displayed.
Also, unit is about 20 years old, so maybe not worth fixing but if there’s a easy fix -maybe a new gas valve or whatever can be recommended as more troubleshooting.
I did clean the igniter and flame rods those look good and there is spark at the igniter rod.
Any recommendations is greatly appreciated.
Thx
If you’re using a 310c 510c model number , this code 111 will happen if you don’t vent it correctly, there is dip switches in the tankless and you need to flip it on , look at the owners manual it will tell you everything.
@@cfonseca12345
Update:
I did find a YT video of a tear down so I gutted the unit: burner assembly was dirty, lint in some of the passages on the manifold-those cleaned up pretty good.
But once I got looking into the combustion chamber and heat exchange assembly, those were aged and & showed signs of un-repair, so I threw the towel in and ordered a whole new tankless heater.
At least I got to learn stuff that I didn’t know before.
Thank you
Will the guy w no beard stfo so the other dude can explain things clearly
WTF are you guys looking at off camera?
Obviously a room/class of people and/or other cameras 🤦♂️
watch some other videos of theirs, there is a class going on