I would have to say that I am impressed with the amount of little details that most others don't show like the fittings and explaining simple things that may not be obvious to someone who isn't hands-on looking at the unit but it is helpful for some people who are interested but on the fence on buying one.
I like that you were sparse in your comments with useful information. So often the videographer is in love with their voice. Thanks for a good offerring
Iam a 37 year HVAC contractor and when Iam bored I love to be a couch critic. But dang you nailed it and Iam so glad that Iam about to retire because that crap puts us put of business. Please check your breaker in the house that its a 120volt and the correct amps . Don't use the old 220v one . Your family is blessed to have you .
Thank you great video, now I know I now I can do it. Here in Santa Fe NM man was asking $2000 to install it, he said it will take 2 hours time, and the reason for asking $1000 an hour was because he is a professional !!!
Awesome video! I installed a 24K unit and planned my run to use all of the 25 ft line set into the center of my house through the attic. For the inside drip, I was able to route to the garage floor. DIY cost was about $3K plus my own labor. Quote from the local AC guys was about $14K. I love the quiet operation. Working with Cielo to diagnose why the app and Wi-Fi connection doesn't seem to work. The remote works perfectly fine.
Great job! Having all the wiring and stand in place made your installation easier. I just installed an 18K BTU last week and can't believe how quiet it is. They are a solar system dream as they are so energy efficient. I am putting in two more, an 12K btu and another 18K btu that will heat and cool the majority of my house.
*Love this unit! Using upstairs in my sons bedroom **Fastly.Cool** and he’s finally able to be comfortable upstairs without me freezing downstairs. Works for more sqft than expected!*
I have two Mr Cool DIY units cooling and heating my 2000sqft home and they're awesome. I originally bought a new 4 ton HVAC heat pump system when I bought my home six years ago. I ran the HVAC system up until I installed my two Mr Cool DIY units about eighteen months ago. I have a 24K and a 12K DIY heat pump system and they're freaking great. They cool and heat my house as good as my 4 ton HVAC system using about 2/3 less energy usage. I also have a 12K Carrier mini split system in our master bedroom and a small 9K mini split system in our spare bedroom. But we only use those systems on rare occasions.
Are you still happy with this setup? I have to replace a 3.5 ton Trane outdoor that just died, quotes for a new 3.5 are running 8k-13k with a SEER rating 14-14.5 and HSPF of 7.5-8. Our electricity usage is crazy high, very much considering putting in two 24k MR. Cool units for 4k and getting the better SEER and HSPF values but concerned about longevity and reliability...also a 2000 square foot single story house.... Any advice?
Started to day with a mini duckless split air conditioner by Aircon. Reading and watching several Utube videos like yours. Thanks for your information and how to install. You did a swell job. Thanks for posting.
I look for things that don’t make sense or (wtf) issues and must confess this one was almost flawless. The only potential issue was cutting the condensation tube too short and allowing it run into the houses foundation. Not a big deal and is nit picking considering the fantastic content provided. Well done!
Great video and good energy. Appreciated that you had extra little hands on the job site, always makes the job extra hard. You've taken away my concern over a up coming installation, thank you.
I bought the exact system and installed it about 3 weeks ago, the only difference is the name, but as we all know they are all made in China. When I was in China they were selling these systems for about $250.00 complete! Some condos there have one per room!
The leak was probably bottom left of outdoor coil. Those small older Fujitsu’s always split out the bottom in heat mode. Fujitsu had a program for awhile to replace them at no cost.
tip: Use some other material you've drilled a hole through as a guide to keep the hole saw from walking around when you don't have a good pilot to hold onto
I installed a 18000 BTU Mr Cool DIY 3 years ago in NE Georgia. No problems with it. It will also act as a heat pump down to freezing temps. It is quiet. I bought it via Home Depot and picked it up at the store. You really need some help running the line through the wall because it is unwieldy and needs someone to pull it as you feed it through the wall. Now they have multi-zone DIY packages available. Good warranty with them. I added an AC surge compressor ($70) to the wiring since we have power interruptions with the thunderstorms here in Georgia.
I like the clear and simple video of your install. FYI I don't believe you should be insulating the the 2 couplings (which you referred to as "valves") together. They should be insulated separately as one is line is going to be hot and the other cold. Bridging them together reduces system efficiency.
Having the warm coupling (liquid line) insulated together with the cold coupling (suction line) does not reduce efficiency. What it does is sub-cools the liquid refrigerant before going into the indoor coil, and it also boils off any potential liquid that didn't evaporate in the cooling coil, protecting the compressor. Liquid going back to the compressor could damage it. The reality is that there is very little heat transfer through those couplings anyway, so it's not really a big deal either way.
I installed an 18k dual zone mr cool unit in my house 6 months ago and it was not the diy type unfortunately, Because I live in Hawaii I had to order through Home Depot and ship to store. I am kinda glad because my tubes are just the right size and the wire is just the correct size. I would suggest that you run a piece of conduit from the end of your piping cover to the electrical box to protect the cable. but mr cool makes a great system I was able to do everything myself including vacuum the pipes and charging as well as wiring the unit. I have zero complaints love mr cool. Saved 2500 from what the hvac company wanted.
Good DIY install - good to see DIYers are using Nylog, its a must to help avoid leaks at the connection points. Mr Cool is a good garage use unit, it will last you 2 - 3 years under normal usage. I don’t like the line set left coiled, understandably the line set is pre-vacuumed and cant be shortened without re-pulling a vacuum and the DIYer wouldn’t readily have the tools necessary to do it right, but otherwise, this is a really good install and those of you who are wanting to do your own unit, follow this step by step...really thorough. Good job.
a little tips for drilling a hole bigger, is to drill a hole in a little wooden plank etc. and hold it firm over the little hole. then keep preasure on the "template" and drill a hole. the little template keeps the sides of the holesaw from wobbling.
You can also nest 2 hole saws on the same arbor. Use the original hole saw used to make the smaller hole as a guide for the larger hole saw. Works great.
The only negative to the preparred tubing is that you may have to loop it due to being too long. Looping can accumulate oil which isn't good for longevity. Spend another $200-$300 on a vacuum kit and flare tool and trim the tube to the right length.
They would do so good in south africa with these kits. We have a massive diy community but the market for us is so small. You can buy these kits but they charge you $7000 for the same kit that sells for $2000 in the states. Madness. Wish mr cool would open their own store here
Heck...Just look for the tattle tail oil residue with the dirt stuck to it to find the culprit and odds are its a leak in the condenser coil, lineset connections or service valves. ;)
Try opening the suction valve first, wait then open the liquid second. The expansion valve is behind the liquid king valve and you could risk flooding it with oil. Also, wait to fire the unit up after supplying power for a bit. Let the compressor warm up and boil any liquid off. You could take a good chunk of the life off the compressor slugging it with liquid refrigerant.
the extra line set should be raised up and set so it coils downward for the oil.. you dont want the oil to get trapped in the loops.. the oil should be in the compressor where it belongs..
@@johngunn879 All the components (even lines) come with charge in them, thus no air or moisture. Special fittings hold pressure inside, yet open when components are screwed together.
The only thing I don't like about this is the excess tubing. I know that is a big part of the DIY friendly part but if I would install I would still want it to be the correct length. This product interests me because my master bedroom is the furthest room from the furnace and it does not get enough air flow for the warmest summer days and coolest winter days.
You can choose how much tubing out of a few selections. You'll likely still have a little extra, but you can get it close in most applications. It looks like he could have gotten about 10-15' less tubing and been okay.
drescherjm if you know how to solder braze or flare tubing you can shorten the length yourself. Only drawback is you’ll need to attach a vacuum pump and evacuate the lines down to 500 microns. I bought Samsung’s for the house in the Philippines and they wouldn’t cover the warranty if I installed it, even tho I showed them my universal license, they insisted I pay them to install it. Well, they just opened the liquid line side valve and cracked open the vapor line fitting and flushed the air out. Not ideal but it works in a pinch. If you purchase a more traditional brand that has 1/4” and 3/8” male flare fittings then you can make your own flares fittings. Always be careful to cut tubing slowly and incrementally so as not to curl the metal inwards too much. Debur just slightly(over deburing thins out the metal)with tubing pointing down so flakes fall out not inside tubing. Then flare the ends (after putting on the flare nut😝) and again flare slowly so as to not fracture the copper. Copper will only bend so much so fast without cracking. Teflon tape and thread sealant are useless on flare fitting. The flare on the tubing is the surface that mates with the male flare. A copper flare washer helps with leaky issues. Lining up the connection with straight tubing and fittings will give you a leak free joint as well. You can install a flare union after shortening the line set using the dummy fittings shown in David’s video here.
@@billssolarpowerandgardenin1016 I have hundreds of hours of soldering experience with copper pipes but not so much brazing. Last time I did that it was the 1980s and I was in high school. Anyways the idea of using one of these units in my situation would be probably the third or fourth try after the others failed. Just got to get time to tackle the problem..
There is also a zoning option for conventional central forced air systems. That may help with getting air to poor locations. Ask for a free quote for a zoning system from your local HVAC company.
That was an excellent video of the DYI MRCOOL mini-split HVAC system. I will be purchasing and installing the 18K variant. I feel far better now to do the install thanks to your valuable inputs
Nice job. The black gooey tape you put up near the hole is probably more to insulate the copper pipes so they don't have water collect on them drip down the pipes. In our church some squirrels ate away the insulation off the duct work and water condensed on the ducts and dripped into the sanctuary . I am going to look into Mr Cool thanks for the vid. Happy Motoring.
I love my mini splits. I do all mine myself. I do have vacuum pump and pressure/vac gauges. I use a “ generic” brand of mini split inverter and all three have never failed me. I have one unit, my second install and very sloppy too, that I have never turned off in 7 years. I helped a friend install a Mr Cool system. They are much easier to install as the learning curve for flaring or brazing and evacuating the line set is avoided.
Dan, I'm building a 28x32 garage with a loft above. The loft will be around around 600 sq ft. based on what you've seen with this Mr Cool unit, would you recommend it?
Theoretically the coiled up electrical cable forms a resistance 'choke' with AC power. The magnetic fields created around the individual wires interfere with each other when looping causing this resistence and needing higher amps than neccessary. Your tested amps was right near the max of 10amps if I read the data sticker correctly. Unless you wanted to allow moving the exterior unit later you could test this out by reading amps, shortening the cord, reattaching then rechecking the usage. If temps are same as before the line should use less electrical energy when done. This lessens the heat in both fan & compressor motors when running. I have electronic degree and as a home inspector I always advised shortening coiled up AC wiring to save useful working life of appliances. What convinced me of the practical side in this was one day found a coiled 50' extention cable that melted itself together into a solid plastic coil. That definitely made an impresion on me.
Your over thinking it buddy. I feel bad for the people you advise, money not well spent for most (99.99%) of properties out there have far worse things that need fixing.
@@paulcrescenti5581 if the power is routed to the exterior unit 1st, that would make a large reduction in the reluctance (ac resistence) issue. Of course rethinking your example, his meter showed 10amps of current flow. That is extremely high for just the interior fan. In rethinking my advised amperage test, it would be easier by simply uncoiling & spreading out the wire before re-reading the current. If amp drop is more than 10% it is well worth shortening the cord.
@@WilliamSymionow true, if that were the extent of my advice. Realize even 10% reduction in watts = greater relability for all components effected. Most designs are now manufactured with thin margins using cheapest possible components. One service call minimally costs home owner several hundred $. Shortening cords cost $2 and 5 min.
I've seen these and they look like good products. The only drawback I see with this is the leftover piping that you have coiled outside that is exposed to being kicked, stepped on, dented, squashed and other bad things. Seems like they might be able to have the pipe in removable segments so you don't have to leave so much coiled up.
R290 is propane. All refrigerants have a pressure/temperature relationship. Having the same amount of refrigerant in a smaller amount of copper lineset would increase the pressure and cause issues. This would mean that the homeowner would have to release a percentage of the propane into the atmosphere, which would still hinder the efficiency of the unit and also possibly introduce moisture to the system (which can cause serious issues). There's a reason that technicians charge what they do.
I ran mine in Florida with my Grid tie back up inverter for 4 days after a hurricane with no power from grid, no problem. That is the reason you want to get the 110v model.
I use a Mitsubishi heat pump to warm my house in cold seasons and cool it in the summer when needed. As I live on Norway I had to let it install by a provisional.
99% of issues one those Fujistsu is a leak in the indoor Coil. I've had the exact same model 12k btu since 2013, rock solid but had a leak this year, replaced the indoor coil for free (12 year parts/labor warranty / Fujitsu Elite dealer)
Good video! I am glad you did not follow the advice of all the experts that told you that you forgot or need to evacuate the line set! So many experts that are not current on new technology! You have a lot of patients to deal with these folks. I think I will check out your video in response to all those comments.😁🛫
I was going to say the same thing as most installations using flare fittings house the refrigerant in the condenser. Would have been nice if he told us the line set holds the charge. Kind of an important distinction worth mentioning.
Great Job ! Only improvement i would make is to support the line set on the Wall of your house. i would recommend a Hose Hangar that u use for Hanging a Garden hose on a Wall. Coil Line set Vertically Like a Garden hose. ( Circular fashion ) That added support will double the life of the unit. if u do not support that line set i can pretty much guarantee u having a leak at the Quick connects in 5 years. Great Job Besides that. minuscule vibration is what causes leaks over time on unsupported lines. Refrigeration Tech. for 39 Years. Business owner for 30 years.
Great tutorial video David,I’m ready to install mine,I like the spring coils around the lines to get a smooth radius without kinks,I was wondering about that until you showed it.Thanks.
The leak is most likely in the evaporator coil I have replaced many of them for the same reason you are changing system I pressure test the to 600 psi and they show up along the tube sheet or along the bottom rows of the coil
This is great but, after considering the cost and amount of work involved, we have opt out for a couple of 12,000 BTU portable unit at $400 a piece. Got everything set up and running in less than 30 minutes.
I think window units are almost twice the energy consumption. Those 12,000 btu system draw about 4.5 amps!.....u could easily run one off a small solar setup.
I have two for garage that doubles as my work shop. Summer is a killer trying to build things in. The 16,000 btu would take off my needs. Wonder if they’ll sponsor me. I guess I should make RUclips vids of what I do for fun and some for building stuff for the house and for friends. I love the ease of installation and the extra feature of being able to operate it from the phone. Thanks
Thanks for the video! A few tweaks: About 3:20 might want to use a level when using the template. 6:48 lots of daylight around the pipes; bit more foam? 11:00 best to insulate the two lines separately, rather than bundling them together; any heat that leaks between the hot/cold and return lines doesn't transfer to/from the head unit inside the building. 11:43 maybe want to caulk that top flashing? 12:03 UV degrades plastic, and you maybe don't want water dripping next to your foundation. Perhaps cover it, and run it a little ways away from the wall. 13:20 WAIT -- you have weather gasket material sticking out to the sides of the cover, and angling UP to form a funnel for rainwater. Not the ideal installation. I would seriously do something to protect the coiled lines; critters and UV are going to chew up the insulation on those lines, and at least around here plants are going to grow through the coil, and you'll be losing heating/cooling.
He seems to have used a level right after pivoting the template but yeah might be better to do that while marking the vent hole, otherwise it could be slightly off :)
Questions: 1.) What do they say to do if you had a leaking connection? 2.) It seems you used more force to tighten the fitting to the outdoor connection, do they specify a torque to tighten those fittings to?
To answer both your questions if you get a torque wrench and follow the manufacturer’s instructions you won’t have a leak but if you do your suppose to leak check with nitrogen and soap bubbles
First off, good job on the install, not bad for a homeowner and I genuinely mean that. The following information is just for anyone looking to install your own ductless system, always follow these procedures if you don't want problems: Get a cheap torque wrench, every system has a torque wrench setting in the Installation Manual, It will almost ensure no leaks. 1) If you want to properly test for leaks use nitrogen, test @ 200-300psi. 2) Always vacuum your system to 500 microns before releasing refrigerant, harbor freight has all of these tools for cheap and they're worth is considering you are already saving money from paying someone to do the installation. Because the system wasn't vacuumed and the refrigerant was introduced to oxygen, that refrigerant & compressor will forever be contaminated and will eventually lead to compressor failure. This can take up to 10 years although it can happen in as less as 1 year before symptoms begin. Just my 2 cents from your friendly hvac technician!
DavidPoz... Awesome video. I really need to get one of them mini split units for my garage. I'm in Florida so it get hot in my garage especially when I'm trying to film a video with the garage door down.
With this, as any refrigeration product, it's essential to vac down the line set and indoor section the leak check the vacuum to see if it holds prior to releasing the refrigerant into the system. Even a small quantity of non-condensibles can reek havoc on the system. And yes I've been installing these since the late 80's and speak from experience. That plastic drain tube, unless shielded from sunlight will disintegrate in 2-3 years. Better to put it in a piece of pvc pipe or at least wrap it in tape somehow. If you plan on getting one of these, you'll need to have it cleaned at least once a year or purchase a cleaning kit with tent to prevent damage to the home interior. The fins on the indoor fan (a long squirrel cage) get filthy in the cleanest of homes in due course. This will diminish performance and/or destroy the fan motor. Essentially, these are throw away systems. When you have any major issue it's mostly cheaper to replace than to pay for service.
Everything is a "throw away system" today. And usually not very long either. Hire an HVAC contractor and put a little furnace/coil/condenser in a little space like this and you'll pay $10,000. This can be bought and installed for $1,500. Sure, you might put 2 or 3 of them in while you stay in the home, but I still think they dollar cost average out. And they are VERY economical to operate.
I was quoted $13k to replace my central ac unit. Been looking at a multi head split system that is quieter, more efficient, and can shut off rooms not being used for under $4k and the vacuum pump, guage set, and pipe flare tool is only $200 to install properly. So even if it needs replacing every 5 years or so I'm still money ahead after taking into consideration service calls for an aging traditional system.
If A Day wanted to make a buck, he could install these with little effort and make money every day. Mike Maxwell is correct that the old guard needs to realize that we now live in a throwaway society. Not working? Throw it away and replace it. We're all guilty of it.
The line set is sealed at both ends and contains refrigerant. It is not possible or necessary to vac them down. The sophisticated connectors on the ends seal the outside connection before they open internally to release the refrigerant as you screw them together. The reverse is also true. If you unscrew the connectors, the internal seal closes before the external seal opens so only a minuscule amount of refrigerant is lost. I know this because I spent a long time on the phone with tech support after I erroneously connected one of the lines to the wrong zone on a 3-zone system. I moved it after our discussion and the system continues to work perfectly after almost two years.
Cool ... Hearing a high end local experienced solar buddy saying these newer mini split heat pumps have really gone up in efficiency (plus under-sizing is better than over-sizing), I wonder how much energy savings the mini slits represent as compared to older tech of window or wall mounted ACs of same BTU ratings ??? ... While that might be harder to document, I'd love to someday see a video clip test result on that question. I purchased a couple of 120vac 12000 BTU Pioneer brand mini split heat pumps (a free shipping $750 each deal) that I have tooled up to install myself. They will help me use my solar options to back off from my natural gas heating; plus provide a great cooling option to my evaporator cooler, including for if I had a wildfire smoke cycle outside my house to deal with. ... I will likely be voiding my warranty without a hired professional install (or check off), but with a background for details, I will take that risk on. Your video here will be another install reference. Thanks for sharing the info. from your learning curve experiences :+) Bill in Northern California
I heat and cool my home with heat pumps and the operation cost as compared to window units is CONSIDERABLY LOWER! There is really no comparison, since the modern heat pump is running on DC power with an inverter and has variable speed capability as compared to that old window unit. It can run the compressor very slowly to keep liquid refrigerant ready for heating or cooling. The window unit compressor has just one speed. It's either running or idle, no in between.
@@chestermartin3440 Yes to more efficient options. I wonder how cooling via mini splits ac will compare to cost of running my evaporator cooler in a dry climate. I know I will prefer the heat pump cooling on cycles that hit near 100F. ... I think it will great to have both option plus heating via the same mini split unit in the winter :+)
Will be renovating a old home and really dont want to do duct work because It's so loud and unhealthy. Looking into alternative heating/cooling systems. Thanks for the video.
You missed one step.Before you screw that top cover head on you have to seal all your open areas where the pipes come thru the wall or water 💦 water will get in.make sure to seal all open sides of the head. Like Clear lexel or something. But your video is nice.I enjoyed watching it.great job!
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
I've been watching videos for hours on installing these. I just purchased one, and this was the most informative. Thank you!
Your welcome, thanks for watching.
I would have to say that I am impressed with the amount of little details that most others don't show like the fittings and explaining simple things that may not be obvious to someone who isn't hands-on looking at the unit but it is helpful for some people who are interested but on the fence on buying one.
On a professional installation you wouldn't have 15 feet of copper lineset sitting behind the unit either.
I like that you were sparse in your comments with useful information. So often the videographer is in love with their voice. Thanks for a good offerring
Same, as much as I want to watch Home Performance's videos his repetitive commentaries are just too daunting...
Iam a 37 year HVAC contractor and when Iam bored I love to be a couch critic. But dang you nailed it and Iam so glad that Iam about to retire because that crap puts us put of business. Please check your breaker in the house that its a 120volt and the correct amps . Don't use the old 220v one . Your family is blessed to have you .
half of these replys are soo fkn fake lol. Mr Cool is that you?
Thank you great video, now I know I now I can do it. Here in Santa Fe NM man was asking $2000 to install it, he said it will take 2 hours time, and the reason for asking $1000 an hour was because he is a professional !!!
Awesome video! I installed a 24K unit and planned my run to use all of the 25 ft line set into the center of my house through the attic. For the inside drip, I was able to route to the garage floor. DIY cost was about $3K plus my own labor. Quote from the local AC guys was about $14K. I love the quiet operation. Working with Cielo to diagnose why the app and Wi-Fi connection doesn't seem to work. The remote works perfectly fine.
How big of a room is that unit in?
How easy was it to route through attic?
Great job! Having all the wiring and stand in place made your installation easier. I just installed an 18K BTU last week and can't believe how quiet it is. They are a solar system dream as they are so energy efficient. I am putting in two more, an 12K btu and another 18K btu that will heat and cool the majority of my house.
Nice. Those should work well with your off-grid system.
Links to them on fx amazon?
Nice roll of tubing behind the heatpump!
thats the way we roll up here
This makes the 6th Mr Cool install I’ve watched on RUclips. YOURS IS BEST👍🏻👍🏻
Holy crap David, small world, we are installing a 2-unit MrCool next weekend and this video was the first one to come up! Wooo Go UMass!
*Love this unit! Using upstairs in my sons bedroom **Fastly.Cool** and he’s finally able to be comfortable upstairs without me freezing downstairs. Works for more sqft than expected!*
I have two Mr Cool DIY units cooling and heating my 2000sqft home and they're awesome. I originally bought a new 4 ton HVAC heat pump system when I bought my home six years ago. I ran the HVAC system up until I installed my two Mr Cool DIY units about eighteen months ago. I have a 24K and a 12K DIY heat pump system and they're freaking great. They cool and heat my house as good as my 4 ton HVAC system using about 2/3 less energy usage. I also have a 12K Carrier mini split system in our master bedroom and a small 9K mini split system in our spare bedroom. But we only use those systems on rare occasions.
N
Are you still happy with this setup? I have to replace a 3.5 ton Trane outdoor that just died, quotes for a new 3.5 are running 8k-13k with a SEER rating 14-14.5 and HSPF of 7.5-8. Our electricity usage is crazy high, very much considering putting in two 24k MR. Cool units for 4k and getting the better SEER and HSPF values but concerned about longevity and reliability...also a 2000 square foot single story house.... Any advice?
From Letterkenny to almost every channel I watch on youtube.........Canadians ...........You're very nice people.
I always like the way you explain things even if there are videos about the same thing from others. Good job good install something to think about.
Started to day with a mini duckless split air conditioner by Aircon. Reading and watching several Utube videos like yours. Thanks for your information and how to install. You did a swell job. Thanks for posting.
I look for things that don’t make sense or (wtf) issues and must confess this one was almost flawless. The only potential issue was cutting the condensation tube too short and allowing it run into the houses foundation. Not a big deal and is nit picking considering the fantastic content provided. Well done!
Great video and good energy. Appreciated that you had extra little hands on the job site, always makes the job extra hard. You've taken away my concern over a up coming installation, thank you.
Tell Ms Poz. Happy Mother’s Day. You do make it look easy sir. Give us a 6 and 18 month follow up please
He didn't do the air evacuation, his AC probably won't survive so long.
@@olegsvodyanov it's pre vacuumed dumbass.
😂😂😂
You have great videos. Sure is nice to watch without cursing. Keep up the good work.
Classic How To - Superb editing - I am saving this for future reference - Excelante !!!
Very impressed, as a HVAC man it’s good to see a unit that most men could do! Great video
I bought the exact system and installed it about 3 weeks ago, the only difference is the name, but as we all know they are all made in China. When I was in China they were selling these systems for about $250.00 complete! Some condos there have one per room!
What is the name of your unit?
The leak was probably bottom left of outdoor coil. Those small older Fujitsu’s always split out the bottom in heat mode. Fujitsu had a program for awhile to replace them at no cost.
But shouldn't he use the vacuum pump in the system like 20 mins to check if there is leak before releasing the refrigerant ?
Thanks for making this video.
Our local utility is encouraging heat pumps.
Looking at the options.
This video is very helpful.
Excellent tutorial. l'm ready to get mine. My neighbor is an electrician. He's going to help me. Should be great up upstairs. Thanks!
I would have added a cooler to that "coil" line set to keep my beer cold in the summer!😁
You do realize that one line would be HOT, right?
Both lines of a mini split are cool, txv is in the condenser
Dennis Coulbourn this is also a heat pump. In wintertime both lines are hot, the condenser is inside
@@12345anton6789 Then you use the cooler to keep your beer from freezing.
tip: Use some other material you've drilled a hole through as a guide to keep the hole saw from walking around when you don't have a good pilot to hold onto
Loved the chuckle at the end!! Great when things go as expected.
Have installed 4 of these units, having the refrigeration lines wrapped in coiled steel to prevent kinking is a nice feature
I installed a 18000 BTU Mr Cool DIY 3 years ago in NE Georgia. No problems with it.
It will also act as a heat pump down to freezing temps. It is quiet.
I bought it via Home Depot and picked it up at the store. You really need some help running the line through the wall because it is unwieldy and needs someone to pull it as you feed it through the wall.
Now they have multi-zone DIY packages available. Good warranty with them.
I added an AC surge compressor ($70) to the wiring since we have power interruptions with the thunderstorms here in Georgia.
arnt you suppose to vacuum the line?
Thank you for posting the Energy Guide at the end! I was curious!
Not all that impressive! Barely average/below average.
I like the clear and simple video of your install. FYI I don't believe you should be insulating the the 2 couplings (which you referred to as "valves") together. They should be insulated separately as one is line is going to be hot and the other cold. Bridging them together reduces system efficiency.
Having the warm coupling (liquid line) insulated together with the cold coupling (suction line) does not reduce efficiency. What it does is sub-cools the liquid refrigerant before going into the indoor coil, and it also boils off any potential liquid that didn't evaporate in the cooling coil, protecting the compressor. Liquid going back to the compressor could damage it. The reality is that there is very little heat transfer through those couplings anyway, so it's not really a big deal either way.
@@shingw that's in refrigeration cycle. Not ac. There's a difference. As the reverse cycle on heating it becomes a problem in hotter climates.
I installed an 18k dual zone mr cool unit in my house 6 months ago and it was not the diy type unfortunately, Because I live in Hawaii I had to order through Home Depot and ship to store. I am kinda glad because my tubes are just the right size and the wire is just the correct size. I would suggest that you run a piece of conduit from the end of your piping cover to the electrical box to protect the cable. but mr cool makes a great system I was able to do everything myself including vacuum the pipes and charging as well as wiring the unit. I have zero complaints love mr cool. Saved 2500 from what the hvac company wanted.
Nicely done, David. Thanks for sharing.
Good DIY install - good to see DIYers are using Nylog, its a must to help avoid leaks at the connection points. Mr Cool is a good garage use unit, it will last you 2 - 3 years under normal usage. I don’t like the line set left coiled, understandably the line set is pre-vacuumed and cant be shortened without re-pulling a vacuum and the DIYer wouldn’t readily have the tools necessary to do it right, but otherwise, this is a really good install and those of you who are wanting to do your own unit, follow this step by step...really thorough. Good job.
2 or 3 years - why? That's useless. Which units will last longer - like 15 years?
Oh Yeah! This is a great review of how a good job is done. Am considering getting a MR COOL for my house and this is might be the best sale ad ever 👍
It's been working well for my family this spring. Still have to wait awhile for next fall to get some cold weather data.
@@DavidPozEnergy THANKS BUD !
@@DavidPozEnergy is it more efficient heating with the 240V hook up?
a little tips for drilling a hole bigger, is to drill a hole in a little wooden plank etc. and hold it firm over the little hole. then keep preasure on the "template" and drill a hole. the little template keeps the sides of the holesaw from wobbling.
Thanks for the tip. I'll have to use that next time.
Or "drywall saw" is way easier and safer
You can also nest 2 hole saws on the same arbor. Use the original hole saw used to make the smaller hole as a guide for the larger hole saw. Works great.
Great vid thanks. I tried this and now I have more bits than what I started with.
Clean and thorough install! Thanks for the video, I'm going to get one of these..
Nice work!! No more noisy, inefficient window AC! And even better that its being powered off grid!
The only negative to the preparred tubing is that you may have to loop it due to being too long. Looping can accumulate oil which isn't good for longevity. Spend another $200-$300 on a vacuum kit and flare tool and trim the tube to the right length.
Just learned something about oil accumulation! Thanks!
Good point, but really though how much DIYERS have the money to do so? And besides buying something you’d most like to ever use this one time.
They would do so good in south africa with these kits. We have a massive diy community but the market for us is so small. You can buy these kits but they charge you $7000 for the same kit that sells for $2000 in the states. Madness.
Wish mr cool would open their own store here
@Orching For the sake of humanity, can you please research before making idiotic comments like this? We need less stupid people on Earth please!
Nice Job. Thanks for stepping us through the install. It looks doable now.
Great job! Glad to see I'm not the only one who does the Charlie Brown face when doing precision work.
WOW. When mine goes I am going to do the same. I have the skills I just did not know there was one especially made for DIY. Thanks.
Consider putting a piece of steel wool or something in the condensate tube end to keep critters out.
Or a P-trap on the bottom
Heck...Just look for the tattle tail oil residue with the dirt stuck to it to find the culprit and odds are its a leak in the condenser coil, lineset connections or service valves. ;)
on the next one. coil the extra condensate drain tubing once on the wall to make a P trap / water loop to keep critters out. then snip it off.
Can't do a p- trap in areas of the country that gets below freezing
@@ThePapertank1 if it’s freezing the ac won’t be on.
I'm from Brazil, and here the instalation way, it's kind different, and some tools we haven't unfortunately
You did an excellent job explaining this installation! Thanks so much. I feel confident I can do this on my food truck.
Very cool, no pun intended. I am going to look into this product for my garage.
I wish we had DIY options here in Australia.
Try opening the suction valve first, wait then open the liquid second. The expansion valve is behind the liquid king valve and you could risk flooding it with oil.
Also, wait to fire the unit up after supplying power for a bit. Let the compressor warm up and boil any liquid off. You could take a good chunk of the life off the compressor slugging it with liquid refrigerant.
We got MRCOOL 18K, 4 years, they are so GREAT! They have central units now.... found that out AFTER after a bought a goodman.
How much was it ?
Goodman built right here in Houston Texas
i have a mr cool diy outdoor 3.5 ton hvac been working great for 4years so far. its hooked into my ductwork
the extra line set should be raised up and set so it coils downward for the oil.. you dont want the oil to get trapped in the loops.. the oil should be in the compressor where it belongs..
I saw that too...coil should always be sloping up, not down then up.
How is that possible without the ability to cut the lines to length????
Joseph Ferradino
I ran mine down the outside wall and then length wise along the bottom, then set the compressor and wiring. No coil on mine
How do you get away with not vacuuming down the system before charging it?
@@johngunn879 All the components (even lines) come with charge in them, thus no air or moisture. Special fittings hold pressure inside, yet open when components are screwed together.
The only thing I don't like about this is the excess tubing. I know that is a big part of the DIY friendly part but if I would install I would still want it to be the correct length. This product interests me because my master bedroom is the furthest room from the furnace and it does not get enough air flow for the warmest summer days and coolest winter days.
The tubing can be purchased at different lengths depending on application
You can choose how much tubing out of a few selections. You'll likely still have a little extra, but you can get it close in most applications. It looks like he could have gotten about 10-15' less tubing and been okay.
drescherjm if you know how to solder braze or flare tubing you can shorten the length yourself. Only drawback is you’ll need to attach a vacuum pump and evacuate the lines down to 500 microns. I bought Samsung’s for the house in the Philippines and they wouldn’t cover the warranty if I installed it, even tho I showed them my universal license, they insisted I pay them to install it. Well, they just opened the liquid line side valve and cracked open the vapor line fitting and flushed the air out. Not ideal but it works in a pinch. If you purchase a more traditional brand that has 1/4” and 3/8” male flare fittings then you can make your own flares fittings. Always be careful to cut tubing slowly and incrementally so as not to curl the metal inwards too much. Debur just slightly(over deburing thins out the metal)with tubing pointing down so flakes fall out not inside tubing. Then flare the ends (after putting on the flare nut😝) and again flare slowly so as to not fracture the copper. Copper will only bend so much so fast without cracking. Teflon tape and thread sealant are useless on flare fitting. The flare on the tubing is the surface that mates with the male flare. A copper flare washer helps with leaky issues. Lining up the connection with straight tubing and fittings will give you a leak free joint as well. You can install a flare union after shortening the line set using the dummy fittings shown in David’s video here.
@@billssolarpowerandgardenin1016 I have hundreds of hours of soldering experience with copper pipes but not so much brazing. Last time I did that it was the 1980s and I was in high school. Anyways the idea of using one of these units in my situation would be probably the third or fourth try after the others failed. Just got to get time to tackle the problem..
There is also a zoning option for conventional central forced air systems. That may help with getting air to poor locations. Ask for a free quote for a zoning system from your local HVAC company.
That was an excellent video of the DYI MRCOOL mini-split HVAC system. I will be purchasing and installing the 18K variant. I feel far better now to do the install thanks to your valuable inputs
Nice job.
The black gooey tape you put up near the hole is probably more to insulate the copper pipes so they don't have water collect on them drip down the pipes.
In our church some squirrels ate away the insulation off the duct work and water condensed on the ducts and dripped into the sanctuary .
I am going to look into Mr Cool thanks for the vid.
Happy Motoring.
I love my mini splits. I do all mine myself. I do have vacuum pump and pressure/vac gauges. I use a “ generic” brand of mini split inverter and all three have never failed me. I have one unit, my second install and very sloppy too, that I have never turned off in 7 years. I helped a friend install a Mr Cool system. They are much easier to install as the learning curve for flaring or brazing and evacuating the line set is avoided.
What generic brand did you use please...
Dan, I'm building a 28x32 garage with a loft above. The loft will be around around 600 sq ft. based on what you've seen with this Mr Cool unit, would you recommend it?
lol at the 12' of rolled copper line behind the unit
Leaving a monstrosity of copper refer lines in place is no good at all! Especially on small tonnage systems as this bloke has done.
@@MARKWILLIAMS-tm4rf These systems are designed to work as is and they do just that. They work great so you clearly don't have a clue....
@@Ozzie4Para Mr Cool is that you?
@@MARKWILLIAMS-tm4rf side note: does that copper tubing attract metal thieves?
Theoretically the coiled up electrical cable forms a resistance 'choke' with AC power. The magnetic fields created around the individual wires interfere with each other when looping causing this resistence and needing higher amps than neccessary. Your tested amps was right near the max of 10amps if I read the data sticker correctly. Unless you wanted to allow moving the exterior unit later you could test this out by reading amps, shortening the cord, reattaching then rechecking the usage. If temps are same as before the line should use less electrical energy when done. This lessens the heat in both fan & compressor motors when running. I have electronic degree and as a home inspector I always advised shortening coiled up AC wiring to save useful working life of appliances. What convinced me of the practical side in this was one day found a coiled 50' extention cable that melted itself together into a solid plastic coil. That definitely made an impresion on me.
Your over thinking it buddy. I feel bad for the people you advise, money not well spent for most (99.99%) of properties out there have far worse things that need fixing.
@@paulcrescenti5581 if the power is routed to the exterior unit 1st, that would make a large reduction in the reluctance (ac resistence) issue. Of course rethinking your example, his meter showed 10amps of current flow. That is extremely high for just the interior fan.
In rethinking my advised amperage test, it would be easier by simply uncoiling & spreading out the wire before re-reading the current. If amp drop is more than 10% it is well worth shortening the cord.
@@JDub-mi7fs thx, for sharing, your experience makes an excellent example of unexpected consequenses of coiling wires.
@@WilliamSymionow true, if that were the extent of my advice. Realize even 10% reduction in watts = greater relability for all components effected. Most designs are now manufactured with thin margins using cheapest possible components. One service call minimally costs home owner several hundred $. Shortening cords cost $2 and 5 min.
great video, you make it look so easy, i think i might just install one of these as they also work in heat mode
Great video Dave.
I have some leak detection fuid..lol ..
Love it! Nice job
I've seen these and they look like good products. The only drawback I see with this is the leftover piping that you have coiled outside that is exposed to being kicked, stepped on, dented, squashed and other bad things. Seems like they might be able to have the pipe in removable segments so you don't have to leave so much coiled up.
R290 is propane. All refrigerants have a pressure/temperature relationship. Having the same amount of refrigerant in a smaller amount of copper lineset would increase the pressure and cause issues. This would mean that the homeowner would have to release a percentage of the propane into the atmosphere, which would still hinder the efficiency of the unit and also possibly introduce moisture to the system (which can cause serious issues). There's a reason that technicians charge what they do.
I watched a video of a installation of Mr Cool where the person cut the length down to size. Nothing was mentioned about too much pressure.
I ran mine in Florida with my Grid tie back up inverter for 4 days after a hurricane with no power from grid, no problem. That is the reason you want to get the 110v model.
I know, these model of fujitsu, the leak will be on the evaporator coil elbows of the left end side under the mounting plastic support.
Awesome video. You can come do my sunroom when we’re ready!!!
OUTSTANDING VIDEO DAVID ! VERY PROFESSIONAL, EASY TO FOLLOW, YOU ARE A PRO. THANKS
I use a Mitsubishi heat pump to warm my house in cold seasons and cool it in the summer when needed. As I live on Norway I had to let it install by a provisional.
99% of issues one those Fujistsu is a leak in the indoor Coil.
I've had the exact same model 12k btu since 2013, rock solid but had a leak this year, replaced the indoor coil for free (12 year parts/labor warranty / Fujitsu Elite dealer)
Good video! I am glad you did not follow the advice of all the experts that told you that you forgot or need to evacuate the line set! So many experts that are not current on new technology! You have a lot of patients to deal with these folks. I think I will check out your video in response to all those comments.😁🛫
I was going to say the same thing as most installations using flare fittings house the refrigerant in the condenser. Would have been nice if he told us the line set holds the charge. Kind of an important distinction worth mentioning.
Funny how you used "patients" instead of 'patience'.... It works both ways.
Wow . Look at all the extra lineset/ piping. Rolled up behind the unit.
Great Job ! Only improvement i would make is to support the line set on the Wall of your house. i would recommend a Hose Hangar that u use for Hanging a Garden hose on a Wall. Coil Line set Vertically Like a Garden hose. ( Circular fashion ) That added support will double the life of the unit. if u do not support that line set i can pretty much guarantee u having a leak at the Quick connects in 5 years. Great Job Besides that. minuscule vibration is what causes leaks over time on unsupported lines. Refrigeration Tech. for 39 Years. Business owner for 30 years.
Great tutorial video David,I’m ready to install mine,I like the spring coils around the lines to get a smooth radius without kinks,I was wondering about that until you showed it.Thanks.
The leak is most likely in the evaporator coil
I have replaced many of them for the same reason you are changing system I pressure test the to 600 psi and they show up along the tube sheet or along the bottom rows of the coil
600psi? Is the unit even designed to hold that pressure?
@@mygripe It's a R410A refrigerant so yes it can handle it for pressure testing .
@@mygripe Often 500 is sufficient, all manufacturers have the test pressure of a system on the label.
Brandon Wright for r410a equipment
All AC guys do 360 max.
This is great but, after considering the cost and amount of work involved, we have opt out for a couple of 12,000 BTU portable unit at $400 a piece. Got everything set up and running in less than 30 minutes.
And your monthly electrical bill is now ?
I think window units are almost twice the energy consumption.
Those 12,000 btu system draw about 4.5 amps!.....u could easily run one off a small solar setup.
Great video! I'm "pumped" to try installing one of these myself sometime :)
I have two for garage that doubles as my work shop. Summer is a killer trying to build things in. The 16,000 btu would take off my needs. Wonder if they’ll sponsor me. I guess I should make RUclips vids of what I do for fun and some for building stuff for the house and for friends. I love the ease of installation and the extra feature of being able to operate it from the phone. Thanks
Thanks for the video! A few tweaks:
About 3:20 might want to use a level when using the template.
6:48 lots of daylight around the pipes; bit more foam?
11:00 best to insulate the two lines separately, rather than bundling them together; any heat that leaks between the hot/cold and return lines doesn't transfer to/from the head unit inside the building.
11:43 maybe want to caulk that top flashing?
12:03 UV degrades plastic, and you maybe don't want water dripping next to your foundation. Perhaps cover it, and run it a little ways away from the wall.
13:20 WAIT -- you have weather gasket material sticking out to the sides of the cover, and angling UP to form a funnel for rainwater. Not the ideal installation.
I would seriously do something to protect the coiled lines; critters and UV are going to chew up the insulation on those lines, and at least around here plants are going to grow through the coil, and you'll be losing heating/cooling.
He seems to have used a level right after pivoting the template but yeah might be better to do that while marking the vent hole, otherwise it could be slightly off :)
Great video bro. I have been thinking about getting the mr cool for a while and now you have inspired me. Thank you!
Questions: 1.) What do they say to do if you had a leaking connection? 2.) It seems you used more force to tighten the fitting to the outdoor connection, do they specify a torque to tighten those fittings to?
To answer both your questions if you get a torque wrench and follow the manufacturer’s instructions you won’t have a leak but if you do your suppose to leak check with nitrogen and soap bubbles
Great job Dave.
First off, good job on the install, not bad for a homeowner and I genuinely mean that. The following information is just for anyone looking to install your own ductless system, always follow these procedures if you don't want problems: Get a cheap torque wrench, every system has a torque wrench setting in the Installation Manual, It will almost ensure no leaks. 1) If you want to properly test for leaks use nitrogen, test @ 200-300psi. 2) Always vacuum your system to 500 microns before releasing refrigerant, harbor freight has all of these tools for cheap and they're worth is considering you are already saving money from paying someone to do the installation. Because the system wasn't vacuumed and the refrigerant was introduced to oxygen, that refrigerant & compressor will forever be contaminated and will eventually lead to compressor failure. This can take up to 10 years although it can happen in as less as 1 year before symptoms begin.
Just my 2 cents from your friendly hvac technician!
DavidPoz... Awesome video. I really need to get one of them mini split units for my garage. I'm in Florida so it get hot in my garage especially when I'm trying to film a video with the garage door down.
With this, as any refrigeration product, it's essential to vac down the line set and indoor section the leak check the vacuum to see if it holds prior to releasing the refrigerant into the system. Even a small quantity of non-condensibles can reek havoc on the system. And yes I've been installing these since the late 80's and speak from experience. That plastic drain tube, unless shielded from sunlight will disintegrate in 2-3 years. Better to put it in a piece of pvc pipe or at least wrap it in tape somehow. If you plan on getting one of these, you'll need to have it cleaned at least once a year or purchase a cleaning kit with tent to prevent damage to the home interior. The fins on the indoor fan (a long squirrel cage) get filthy in the cleanest of homes in due course. This will diminish performance and/or destroy the fan motor. Essentially, these are throw away systems. When you have any major issue it's mostly cheaper to replace than to pay for service.
Everything is a "throw away system" today. And usually not very long either. Hire an HVAC contractor and put a little furnace/coil/condenser in a little space like this and you'll pay $10,000. This can be bought and installed for $1,500. Sure, you might put 2 or 3 of them in while you stay in the home, but I still think they dollar cost average out. And they are VERY economical to operate.
I was quoted $13k to replace my central ac unit. Been looking at a multi head split system that is quieter, more efficient, and can shut off rooms not being used for under $4k and the vacuum pump, guage set, and pipe flare tool is only $200 to install properly. So even if it needs replacing every 5 years or so I'm still money ahead after taking into consideration service calls for an aging traditional system.
If A Day wanted to make a buck, he could install these with little effort and make money every day. Mike Maxwell is correct that the old guard needs to realize that we now live in a throwaway society. Not working? Throw it away and replace it. We're all guilty of it.
The line set is sealed at both ends and contains refrigerant. It is not possible or necessary to vac them down. The sophisticated connectors on the ends seal the outside connection before they open internally to release the refrigerant as you screw them together. The reverse is also true. If you unscrew the connectors, the internal seal closes before the external seal opens so only a minuscule amount of refrigerant is lost. I know this because I spent a long time on the phone with tech support after I erroneously connected one of the lines to the wrong zone on a 3-zone system. I moved it after our discussion and the system continues to work perfectly after almost two years.
Cool ... Hearing a high end local experienced solar buddy saying these newer mini split heat pumps have really gone up in efficiency (plus under-sizing is better than over-sizing), I wonder how much energy savings the mini slits represent as compared to older tech of window or wall mounted ACs of same BTU ratings ??? ... While that might be harder to document, I'd love to someday see a video clip test result on that question.
I purchased a couple of 120vac 12000 BTU Pioneer brand mini split heat pumps (a free shipping $750 each deal) that I have tooled up to install myself. They will help me use my solar options to back off from my natural gas heating; plus provide a great cooling option to my evaporator cooler, including for if I had a wildfire smoke cycle outside my house to deal with. ... I will likely be voiding my warranty without a hired professional install (or check off), but with a background for details, I will take that risk on. Your video here will be another install reference.
Thanks for sharing the info. from your learning curve experiences :+) Bill in Northern California
I heat and cool my home with heat pumps and the operation cost as compared to window units is CONSIDERABLY LOWER! There is really no comparison, since the modern heat pump is running on DC power with an inverter and has variable speed capability as compared to that old window unit. It can run the compressor very slowly to keep liquid refrigerant ready for heating or cooling. The window unit compressor has just one speed. It's either running or idle, no in between.
@@chestermartin3440 Yes to more efficient options. I wonder how cooling via mini splits ac will compare to cost of running my evaporator cooler in a dry climate. I know I will prefer the heat pump cooling on cycles that hit near 100F. ... I think it will great to have both option plus heating via the same mini split unit in the winter :+)
man great drill bit technique @ 3:45!
Will be renovating a old home and really dont want to do duct work because It's so loud and unhealthy. Looking into alternative heating/cooling systems. Thanks for the video.
Definitely diy that’s crud! All that extra line set😂
Yeah, geez that massive coil just sitting there 😐
Great job at video production. Did you have to check the pressure in the lines with a meter to confirm the system requirements?
Looks like a nice setup! How much does it cost all together???
Great video. Now I have learned that I can do this myself. Thanks
Good instruction video. Thanks for sharing with other DIY'rs.
I think I would have tested the system before I taped and tied everything together and covered it up. But way to go!
Your right he should have leak tested first. Also should not have mounted the unit so close to the airhandler, now he is stuck with that coil.
@@RadioRich100 ,bbnyghhgg
Will install one in my garage, after I call Mr Cool
My Air con uses R32 gas so before the gas vanlves are opened, air inside of the copper pipe must be well sucked (using vaccum pump)
Or juts let it out....no worries
I really liked it. Thank you & God Bless.
You missed one step.Before you screw that top cover head on you have to seal all your open areas where the pipes come thru the wall or water 💦 water will get in.make sure to seal all open sides of the head. Like Clear lexel or something. But your video is nice.I enjoyed watching it.great job!
Love the videos man...always great, always easy to follow!
Thanks for watching.
We also trying in our country Nigeria in repairing and installation