DIY Mini-Split Heat Pump, Full Installation, 2021
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- Опубликовано: 6 авг 2021
- Wow, this is the most efficient mini-split I've ever seen! I'll show you the full installation. Every step is covered in detail. This is my first time installing this type of mini-split heat pump and it worked great.
I'm installing this in my garage, workshop, to cool it in the summer, and help heat it in winter. The installation went pretty smooth. The included manual shows you how to install most of the parts.
I installed this in the middle of summer, and it's hot! After 48 hours of run-time the mini-split had the whole garage cooled to 64°F and is only drawing a tiny 130 Watts to maintain that temperature! Wow! That's amazing how the inverter driven compressor can draw so little power.
The manual says to just pull a vacuum using a vacuum pump. However, I also include using a nitrogen tank to pressure test the system and check for leaks.
Since this mini-split can run on straight 240V (no neutral) I can run this on my Growatt inverters that I installed in a previous video. Actually, I could install up to 5 of these mini-split air conditioners on just one Growatt 5000 inverter. That's a cool way to move some loads off the grid.
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Signature Solar provided this unit at no cost for the purpose of a review. However, the thoughts and opinions expressed in this video are mine and mine alone. Thanks for watching, David.
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Disclaimer:
My videos are in no way intended to be instructional "how-to" lessons. I am simply documenting my project for informational purposes. Property damage, personal injury, or death may result, even when following manufacturer's instructions. I cannot be held liable for such damage or injury. It is YOUR OBLIGATION to ensure that you are complying with any local and federal laws as well as code and permit requirements.
David Poz, LLC 
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I've always appreciated how you don't let ego get in the way of including common mistakes in the assembly process . It makes for a better presentation for other do it yourselfers . Thanks
100%
Dad of the year award! Never miss a bus ride; they only come along once. Great video.
100%
When I saw you hook the nitrogen to the red side, with the vacuum pump to the yellow, I worried you would blow out your vacuum pump oil… glad you switched the hoses around.
Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) ruclips.net/user/postUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.
I like your attitude and it is great that you read the manual. A few points I would like to make. The flare nuts that come with the unit are made for the temperature changes and pressure of R410A and should be used. I would suggest buying the line set with no flare nuts and also with at least 1/2 inch thick insulation. The use of a manifold set is not necessary but the use of a micron gauge is. Gary
This is almost certainly a Midea made unit that is rebranded. Midea's version is listed at 42 SEER for the 9000BTU/Hr unit. I have a similar one installed in my master bedroom and another installed at a friends house.
Some tips for anyone else trying this:
1) Connect blue hose to mini-split service port, red hose to nitrogen, and yellow hose to the vacuum pump.
2) Don't keep changing hoses. The yellow hose end connected to the vacuum pump will be full of oil mist from the vacuum pump. You don't want that getting into your mini-split lineset.
3) If you aren't using a electronic micron gauge to measure vacuum then I would suggest doing at least 3 cycles of purging with nitrogen, vacuum for 30 minutes, and repeat. Having done two of these now with a micron gauge and a two stage vacuum pump I can tell you that it takes a few tries and a few hours to get well below the 500 micron target. The analog gauge on those manifolds is useless for measuring a really low vacuum. A micron gauge is a much better approach and will actually let you know when you have gotten all the moisture out of the system and whether or not the vacuum is holding properly.
4) Tighten and apply Nylog to those brass caps on the service ports. They aren't just dust caps. They are a secondary seal.
5) If you have lineset flaring tools, just plan on cutting off the factory flares and re-flare them yourself. They are usually low quality (oblong, warped, scratches on mating surface, etc.). Also, the flare should be as big in diameter as possible such that the nut just barely fits over it. This increases the surface area for the flare connection and reduces the chances of leaks.
6) Do the pressure test overnight. It's a DIY job so you should have time. Tiny leaks with not show up within a few hours, but they will cause enough refrigerant loss to be a problem in a couple of years.
GOOD INFO HERE.
Tip 6 I wish i would have done the overnight pressure test . to late now i think i have a slow leak , DYI back inJuly 2019
I own this same unit and it is a rebranded Gree. I also have a Senville brand which is made by Midea, build quality is much better but not as high of seer rating. Haven't had the Gree long enough to know how it holds up, but it doesn't look impressive.
This is 100% accurate. I have DIY 7mini splits and I bought all the proper tools, micron gauge is a must for a proper install. The tools are expensive(to get good ones and all the ones you need) but the money I saved on just one mini split Install paid for them almost 3x over. I knew I was installing many units so the right tools to do the job right was a smart investment. I got a torque wrench set to torque the nuts properly too. This is probably unnecessary but I wanted every install perfect the first time. I got a pipe bender too since I was making alot of bends and the line set on 36000 btu units is Thick and hard to bend and not kink. Always deburr your copper line sets with the opening facing down! You don't want copper shavings falling in your lineset. You always need to deburr before you make a new flare on your lines. Practice your flaring technique before you make you final cuts because it can be tricky to know exactly how to make the flare the right size and not oval shaped. Nitrogen pressure test is highly recommended since it will find leaks much quicker than a vacuum will. The nitrogen will also help dry out the lines before vacuuming.
@@michaelseater1004 I have installed senvilles and they are my personal favorite. Pioneer is the same as senvilles since they are just rebranded Midea.
appreciate the thorough install demo, dreaming of doing an off grid system someday and videos like these help alot
Wow. Very thorough instruction. I’m an electrician and electrical engineer but really had no idea what was involved. This is exactly what I was looking for. Interested in installing a mini split or two in my house next year.
I've been running the Innovair Elite 9K BTU 37.5 SEER minisplit for just over a year on our small 28 ft 5th wheel RV, running on our 1890W solar PV array and 7.8 KWh of LFP cells, powered by a Victron Phoenix 2000VA 230v inverter. Works PERFECTLY. We had days of 102F in summer in Montana and the inside was a cool 78F. And in Yuma this last week, we had uncharacteristically cold 39F temps at night and the heat pump kept us relatively cosy at around 70F during the night. This minisplit has been a life=changer for us when boondocking with no external power and lovely air conditioned comfort! We can run the A/C indefinitely in the Summer. The heat pump uses a lot more power and so I would like to add another two 325w panels and increase my LFP to 10 KWh to run it comfortably all night long
how did you mount the unit outside the RV? Roof?
@@cyoungso most hang it on the ass end of trailer
How about a link as to where you bought the unit
I'm doing nearly the same as you only I'm using sungold power 220 volt. Same amount of solar and all
Awesome project especially being patience with your daughter. Really put a smile to my day.
This is a job I will never do, but found myself riveted to the entire hour with your non pretentious yet capable and honest personality. Including your family in the video only added to the warmth. So many of these “Handyman” channels are over produced and over acted, making yours a nice change. Thanks.
Ive watched many many many videos if Mini split installs. I usually learn a little something each time (and sometimes what not to do). But this video is by far the most comprehensive and overall well explained. Wish this video existed two years ago, would have made my minisplit journey easier.
Nice video. FYI: The yellow host goes to the gas. The blue goes to the low side. Never - Ever put your hose in the dirt like that. When you disconnect blue hose from low side, connect it to manifold nipple. Keeps them clean. Same with Red and yellow. Nice job. Got it done. Thanks for sharing. Keep cool!
I was going to scold him too, lol
You guys are nicer than i am....
Y'all too nice, I was also gonna scold him that his hoses aren't rated for R410 pressures, that's an R134a manifold so he likely is also only running 500psi max WP, 800psi burst hoses rather then the recommended 800psi max WP 1100psi burst rated hoses, playing with fire pushing those hoses and manifold that hard
Just finished my first install, thanks to you! Thanks for the help! Keep up the good work.
Love these split systems! I installed one for my garage/workshop and even if I have it turned up to 80, the garage still feels great in the summer because of the humidity removal. Super efficient, pretty easy to install.
Make sure that drain line is on the bottom of the bundle and has no condensate traps or low spots they will not drain even if it well below the head unit. The condensate will drain out of the front of the unit.
I bet you’ll never forget to put in the connector washer ever again, hehe.😁
Put a little roof above your electrical disconnect /\
You need to do the spray test at the top as well, where you have a connection.
Your pressure and vacuum rest revealed you were sealed properly.
Flip your disconnect pull-out, it’s upside down…that’s why it’s sticking. Those rounded screws don’t make it completely symmetrically reversible. 😀
Breakers protect the wires from burning.
Great job on the entire installation. Excellent indeed.
You are incorrect about the disconnect being upside down. At 55:21 you see the words on and off on the disconnect plug with off printed upside down. The plug is designed so that it can be inserted in the on position or flipped and inserted in the off position. This is and has been the convention forever.
@@rcpmac correct
That's a really great idea to connect the form to stakes, to hold it in place when doing concrete!
That's the way it's always done by the pros.
Thanks David & Alaina For your instructive videos!! You have helped me get over my hesitation to get into this type of DIY!! Keep up the great work!!!
A better way to bring down the refrigerant, condensate and power is to elbow the 3" sched. 40 and continue a 3" pipe down the exterior of the wall. It not only is more tidy but also protects the insulation from degrading in the sun.
The next best thing after the fact is to wrap the black foam insulation over the refrigerant lines with 3" wide aluminum duct tape. Not the Mylar stuff but actual aluminum duct tape. That tape will totally prevent UV degradation of the foam insulation.
great job! many people do not realize how efficient modern "heat pump" inverter systems can be.
Great information, thank you!!!
PVC glue, as it sets up, tries to push the 2 pieces apart. Hold in place about 30 seconds.
Thanks for video. I just installed my C&H 18k BTU unit I bought from an Amazon returns reseller. I had to pump my system down - no problem. Had the pump from fixing my AC on my F250 years ago. Works Great!
I added a 3 zone mini split about 2 years ago and had some longer runs. I decided to have an HVAC contractor come in to pull the vacuum and add the required refrigerant. Nobody would work on my unit because I bought it from the internet! After calling 20 contractors I finally found one that would do it. I did 98% of the installation. They charged me $2000 to do six splices in the lines and add the refrigerant! But how could I complain because they were doing me a big "favor".
So if I were to do this again I'd definitely buy a Mr. Cool DIY unit or plan on buying the vacuum kit and doing that part myself.
I can relate to your pains in finding a contractor. I've also installed a DIY MR.Cool kit, so I have experience both ways. I like this method of buying the vacuum pump/tools and doing the whole process yourself. The lines come out so much nicer and it's more efficient.
Whenever I receive freight I open up the boxes and do an inspection. Any visible damage I refuse the freight. Then call the freight line OS and D Clerk. That stands for over short and damaged. They will handle the insurance claim and getting it back to the manufacturer all I have to do is sit back and wait for the replacement
When working on electrical distribution panels please verify that you have no voltage present with respect to ground as sometimes a dodgy isolator which keeps one leg jammed on can really mess up your day ⚡. This I learned from experience with 400Vac 3phase that we have here in Ireland.
You're a lucky man that you can DIY. Here in Australia it is illegal to do literally anything yourself. I'm originally from UK, so of the DIY mindset. If the law knew how much rewiring I'd been doing myself they'd probably lock me away and throw away the key.
Entire family gets a workout! Terrific! Congrats to your helpers!
Another great video David. As an architect engineer and builder of many years I have to thank you for educating home owners to install this energy efficient technology. I’ve ordered three growwatt inverters 30 K of batteries and more solar panels from your recommendations to upgrade my home system. And after watching this video I will be ordering some heat pumps as well.
Have a great holiday 🥳
Great video. Very thorough. One thing I like to put the Nilog on is the back side of the flare where the nut contacts. It lubricates and tightens much better but as you did, you should always use a torque wrench as you can easily over tighten and split the flare.
I am Russian. I liked everything you did - technologically and correctly ! Instead of 1/4 to 5/16 adapters for 410/32 freons, I use taps with the same adapter threads. Crimping with nitrogen under 30 atm.- I also do this .
I'm re looking at this video and actually want to give you a BIG compliment by thanking you for still showing when you and made mistake on the pressure issue AND how you solved it, THAT is a professional , Thank you :)
Great video and great installation! Thanks.
Thanks for checking it out.
An HSPF rating of 15 too with claims that it heats down to -22F! This is an amazing heat pump, seems almost too good to be true. I’d love to see more updates about it over time.
I plan to do another update in the winter to see how well it heats. It worked beautifully this summer. It was at least 4x more efficient than my old window unit shown in the video. But, window units are not known for efficiency. LOL
@@DavidPozEnergy If you plan on heating down to -22 you beter have electric strip heaters as well for defrost or every time it reverses you will lose the heat you just made but then again if they derated heat capacity and that inverter might make up some of today's magic I'm used to old school tech when it comes to heat pumps will be interesting to see how your results come out.
David, one thing I would add to the end of this video, you should check the line pressure after the coolant has been released and the unit is running. I did not, and it turned out that the unit was low on refrigerant upon delivery. It ran , but very weakly. I spent several days searching for leaks that did not exist. After four days of constantly checking the pressure, I realized that it came low on refrigerant, my pressures were holding steady at half what they should be. The manufacturer agreed to pay for an Hvac Co. to fill the system. They wanted $250./LB plus $99.trip fee. That's California for you! That adds up to half the initial cost of the complete system. DIY.....
I got that same vacuum/guage set to redo the AC in my van. Worked great!
That cement base should be a video on it's own, very informative, Thanks
About that base. A bit of overkill on the reinforcement wire for such a small pour and not enough put into the gravel pad. The unit will vibrate the solid concrete and eventually loosen the gravel which will crawl out the sides and the pad may shift out of level. At least carve out a hole in the dirt to hold the gravel.
Carrier came out with a 42 SEER 9000 BTU minisplit over 3 years ago. I have one - works great! It also heats with a VERY HIGH HSPF ... about 15.0 . It pulls heat from outside air which is at MINUS 23 degrees. So it heats my house even when it is VERY COLD !
😉
Carrier doesn't make mini splits. They are from Midea. What's funny is this unit, the one in the video, and Mideas are all the same unit but Carrier claims the highest seer. However, the indoor unit is more high end on the Carrier and Midea.
Hi Steve, I was just going to say that. The one difference to this unit is (I think) that mere mortals can order it whereas the Carrier is only available to certified/trained installers, or it comes heavily marked up with a voided warranty.
Ya the carrier one is way too expensive and you can't buy it as a customer. You can only get it through a hvac installer. The cost of the install and unit where guaranteed astronomical. You can buy a 38 seer 9000btu unit like in this video for $1400. You paid atleast $3500+ if not more.
@@sprockkets ya if you look at the EER rating on this unit and the 42seer carrier they are the same at EER 16.5. EER rating is far more accurate in my opinion since it uses a btu per watt to calculate its efficiency. 9000btu divided by 16.5 EER is 545w. That's how much power it uses at full load.
Great job with details on installing system. I always install my systems up off the ground on a supplied wall mount or buy one. As of your suggestion of snow but also weeds, better air movement, less dust, dog pee, socker balls, vandalism, tampering, safety… also never put any type of leak lock or sealants on the inside of the flare fittings. If any happens to get in the system, not good. It is also best to use the line set as is and never reflare or open lines, if they have. No need to vacuum if you use pre charged line set. Running the vacuum for 30 minutes is not long enough and a double vacuum is recommended. Good job and great Dad. Yes I am a refrigeration technician for 50 years.
That was a 100% job...would've loved to have seen the final finish outside though...perhaps we can have a look in the next video David? I wonder how you can measure the claimed efficiency rating?
The black foam insulation on the tubes for my mother's A/C started to oxidize after a few years. I spiral wrapped them with green gorilla tape. It still is looking good 6 years after that. Good UV resistance on the tape and its adhesive!
The line sets that come with the unit are metric generally. It would be advisable to leave a service drop in the lines so that any future repairs will have room to put new fittings on the line/lines.
It seemed like the line set was usable as is without cutting and flaring, didn't really have that much excess length to warrant cutting it shorter.
That concrete form was better-built than most houses! Countersunk those screws in the 2x4 corners so it looked beautiful for the 2 hours it existed and Thank goodness for the steel stakes holding the corners or who knows what might have happened to that massive amount of concrete. Sloppy ol me would prolly just lined up a row of those blocks on the gravel leveled and called it a day...
You and your precious children just made my day!
Wow nice work brother. That looks nice! The buss part had to be the best part of this video. Thanks for sharing. God Bless brother.
LOL, she is a fun.
Great, detailed video David! I've been running Mitsubishi mini splits at my house for 4 years and have loved them. I hope you'll be able to come up with a way to measure actual efficiency of this unit, I'd be very curious of the findings!!
Kevin have you had any problems of any type with your units and did you see a drop in your utility cost? Thanks
@@carlduncan8462 - Kevins dead Carl!!
Yeah there was another YT video of someone installing a mini split, where he noticed that the SEER rating on the unit was lower than advertised. He complained, and the mfg shipped him a new sticker so that he could cover up the lower number! Makes you wonder how much the claimed SEER numbers can be trusted.
Loved it, detailed and you also shared some of the mistakes you have gone through and they were really important for my understanding. Thanks for sharing.
I have been strongly considering installing a dual zone myself. Everything was within my wheelhouse up until it came to the vacuum pump and that sequence made me reconsider spending a few extra bucks and getting someone else to do it. Also don't want to void the warranty. Great video.
It will be hard to find a Installer who would just vacuum the lines. Unless you spend big bucks on buying and installing a unti from a hvac company the warranties are useless.. I wouldn't worry about a warranty since they only cover parts and not the labor or shipping. The cost to get those parts replaced by a technician are going to cost as much as a new unit. I have installed 7 of these minisplits on my own and they all work great. First one was in 2015. Buy the tools and do it yourself.
Mr Cool makes some good DIY multi-zone units. Just got a 3 zone 36K(12K, 12K, 12K), super easy to install and everything was precharged from the factory so no need to mess with any gases or vacuums. Took a day to get everything in and that sucker pumps out great heat. You read about how good they are and people loving them but it's shocking how good and efficient it is. Of course it's nowhere near a 38 seer, it's 23 seer. At just a little over $3K it was a heck of a deal.
Please give us an update on how the heating portion is working...Great video as always ..Thank you
I recommend pressure testing first before pulling a vacuum. No need to vacuum twice, it is overkill. When pulling a vacuum use a micron gauge. You are already doing a far more meticulous job than you would likely get from a professional installation. Thus great job!!
Thank you. If I install another I will buy a micron gauge and Schrader valve removal tool. I didn't know about all these optional tools until these comments. So, thank you.
@@DavidPozEnergy I did a DIY install myself and bought these tools you mention a few years back. They have sat quietly in my basement since. I'm in NH and would happily loan them to you if you need them sometime. Please feel free to reach out if you do.
Not to mention by running a vacuum first , if there is a loose fitting you will potentially be pulling in moisture/ contaminants into the system. So always dry nitrogen 1st. Absolutely outstanding as a DIY’r. You certainly did your homework. Great Work !!
I agree with you there Edward, but isn’t that really a sad commentary on how some “professionals” do their job. I’ve installed dozens of these systems. When i describe my process some of the “professionals” they comment on how unnecessary some tasks are. Most don’t even have a bottle of GN2, nor do they have a micron gauge, let alone a torque wrench to properly tighten the lines.
Wow, indeed! What a terrific instructional video. David does a great job of organizing his procedure and explaining everything.
Thank you I appreciate the attention you provide in each step
I think I would have purchased the wall bracket for the compressor, and mounted the unit off the ground, so you can mow / weed trim under it, and lessen the chance of their being an issue of some yard guy hitting the unit... Plus it would be above most snow heights, unless you live in Maine. Also, most installs leave a convenience outlet near the disconnect box, to run your equipment like vacuum, etc.
The Convenience outlet, Actually it is code and enforced here in Colorado depending on which town your in.
Awesome low current cooling. Wish I lived in an area and had the money to pull off a project like that....maybe someday 😃
I'd like to add a big shout-out to your wife Alana (not sure of spelling?). She needs to be mentioned more often for her superb video skills. She always gets the view right so we can really see, and if your head is in the way, she's happy to tell you to move it!! Kudos to Alana.
Good job my brother, that was no different then a regular professional doing it. Probably better than most professionals. Keep up the good work
Very nice job for a diy. Every unit I have installed has instructions to bring the lines into a 500 micron vacuum with a break in nitrogen flush three times. This is due to the fact, there is only one hose connection, meaning there is no way to blow out any contaminants. Mixing in nitrogen in three times with a 500micron evacuation gets as much of the contaminants out as possible…
My simple tip solution for his is to break the small flare to bleed out the first nitrogen pressure test. This blows out ALL contaminants, then retourque the flare, pressure test for leaks, evacuate, and you are done!
Thanks for the tip, I hadn't heard that one before.
That is an ideal situation that is not typically part of a DIY installation. All these DIY mini splits are for homeowners that dont have the knowledge or the money for nitrogen or vacuum pumps. When I inquired....I DO have the nitrogen and vacuum system...I was told that as DIY...they are designed to have some non condensibles in the sealed system...and be 100% ok. Mitsubishi would have a fit if you installed theirs at a DIY level.
It's probably good to get a ball valve fitting on the connection to the compressor at the vacuum line so it doesn't discharge the refrigerant into the manifold gauge line. They're available at fairly low cost.
One more tip, on the outside wall, an 1-3/8” hole gives clearance to fit the ell flush to the wall.
Thank you. I appreciate you sharing some of your knowledge. That would have made it sit better. As it is now there's a little bow in the conduit from the LB to the first anchor.
Thanks David and Alaina. Great teamwork with this video... very informative and great camera work too. Keep it up!
14-2 means 14 gauge with 2 power leads... (they also come with a ground). Awesome videos, been watching a bunch of battery backup videos and this one hit home because I have one of these machines sitting outside my house right now, ready to be installed. :)
I had a properly installed minisplit and several times had the drain line get clogged with algae, resulting in water running down the interior wall. As near as I can tell, few, if any, of these units have a sensor for the internal drain pan filling up. I was going to see what I could hack together to implement something like that, but ended up selling that house before I did. When it did get clogged, the solution was to put a shop-vac on end of the drain line outside, and suck it clear. Some people recommend running bleach through the drain line, but I never found a decent way to inject it into the unit.
One of the things I really like about these inverter minisplits is how quiet both the inside air handler and the compressor are. I could be outside standing next to mine, and you wouldn't even have to raise your voice to have a conversation.
Does algae grow in darkness or was it clogged where the sunlight hit the drain hose outside?
In the future you can buy drain line cleaner that you just pour over the indoor unit coil, it will drain down to the pan and out the line.
I'm not going to lie, that is insane. Albeit, it's only a 9k unit but being able to use so little energy it really doesn't matter at that point.
If you need more capacity, buy another one 🙃
For the vacum part id recomend another video because this was a lot. All 3 colour hoses was connected to the split within a minute of the video without really having to.
The basic of it is just connecting the blue to the split and yellow to pump and then vacum half hour, then close valve and see that it holds. Red and nitrogen side is really not needed, but is an added test.
Also remember that in a high moisture environment it wil take longer time for the vacum pump compared to dry.
Great video showing all info doh.
Great learned some neat techniques like making holes through the wall, making electrical conduit and cement slab form, nice job well done.
I'm an electrical contractor and I've never seen somebody cut MC wire like that lol!
Seemed pretty easy, wasn't sure how a longitudinal cut could have left the opening straight across.
Man, it must have been a hassle to record all that when you just want to get the job done. But we thank you for the great video!!
Thank you for understanding that. Yes, it takes at least 3 times longer to record the steps. Plus it was a week of editing. The easiest videos are to just talk about what you did. I do that sometimes but find those videos boring. I prefer watching videos of doing the work, which is why I try to make the same type of videos.
@@DavidPozEnergy You are very lucky to have two great assistants. Give them both a big hug!
@@DavidPozEnergy We all appreciate your attention to details and don't "gloss" over the small things .. sometimes those are the most important details we DIY'ers are unable to attain when making the attempt ourselves. I've subscribed to you mainly because of this and the focus on doing things "right" the first time, not just getting it done for the sake of the video. It pays off in the long term, so thank you and god bless! Keep up the good work!
@@DavidPozEnergy I know it’s a good video when I see multiple ads and don’t mind one bit because you’ve earned a bit of revenue. New to your channel and will subscribe and review your previous videos. Thanks! 🙏
I came by this video by Mistake! But i was so impressed by the way you were explaining the installation i ended up watching it to the end! I live in the UK and i will never need this But at least i now have the Knowledge how to install one if ever i do! Thanks David a great Video
Your welcome. Thanks for watching.
Very well done. Perfect for daily consumer. Wish you all the best.
I installed a similar unit (a Cooper & Hunter) in my daughter's cabin. I ran the line set, condensate tube and ¾" conduit all through a piece of 2" schedule 40 PVC through the wall.
This is a great video...learned lots of good techniques, notably leveling and fixing the concrete frame and loved the cute kids interludes :-)
YOU LEARNED GOOD TECHNIQUES FROM THIS GUY . I AM AMAZED.
Another brilliant video, I always learn so much, due to the amount of knowledge and detail you share.
Wait wait wait WAIT!!!! Did I just see 301 watts maintenance cycle?!?!?!?!? Ok ok...you got me pacing the floor here in disbelief. Dude...this is a game changer.
I monitored the kWh used for the months of July and August. It averaged 6kWh/day to maintain 68 degrees inside my workshop.
Hi david. Would love to see a comparison of measured energy consumption of this ductless unit vs your old window unit. Ideally bringing the space from the same indoor baseline temperature to a target temperature and holding it there for a significant period of time. Ideally these tests would happen on 2 separate days of similar outdoor conditions, temperatures RH and solar gain. Thanks for the excellent DIY video.
My window AC could never get the garage down to the set temperature. But, this new mini-split hit the set temperature of 61°F in just one day! So, we know it's more powerful. but, it did that using half the energy over 24 hours than my window AC uses in 24 hours. I've been monitoring it since I installed it and I'm impressed. It's able to maintain temperature for between 100 to 200 watts. The range is because outside temperature is variable. But I've had some 98°F days the past month, so it's really very good.
64F in garage/workshop is crazy. 68F i very low for house cooling...
But with free energy from solar panels you can afford it without any remorse
Especially when it’s just using 150 watts.
Looks great! Thank you for sharing.
"Leak detection fluid" lmao that shit killed me.. u earned my subscription
Nice video. Thanks David, this was like a lesson for pro installers where I live. The only thing we don't saw was the coverings for the copper pipes but that is easy! Thanks for the video. 👍🏻😎
I might make a little follow up video and toss in some shots of the vinyl cover. Thanks for watching.
I seriously doubt this unit is "38 SEER" under the same ASHRAE conditions that major name brand units are rated.
That is one of the two main ways SEER values are inflated. In comparison, the top of the line Lennox air-source heat pump/A-C are 28 SEER.
well anyway to figgure out the true SEER? I honestly thought the same thing. how can this unit be so super effcient?
Yeah it sounds scammy to me. I bet it's not actually 38 seer
Seems very high, Mitsubishi have the highest SEER at around 28 this is probably skewed and fake ratings
Same specsmanship as those writing up specs for 8000A portable jump packs, I think.
If you look around Carrier is the highest at 42 I've seen others saying 38 remember this is a skeewed number due to total usage meaing now they are using part load and Occupancy, and Inverter savings which a standard AC will never be able to compete with Head to Head at full capacity I think the real numbers will drop back to 25 ish.
32:00 GOOD CALL!! Nice install!!
I appreciate your detailed vids. Thanks.
I thought the video was pretty good until I noticed at 23:00 you simply brought in professional help to do all the real work! HAHAHA!
Looks identical to my Air-Con rated at 23 SEER! Never even heard of a 38 most I have heard of at the cutting edge is 27 or 28.
How many watts per hour are you using?
@@stevensaxon8888 a on my own
I am not an HVAC guy, but the excellent engineer at the synonymous channel says that nylog is not a sealant. It is actually a lubricant and you put one or two drops of it on the BACK of the flare fitting not inside the mating surface of the tube, in order not to twist the copper while tightening the fitting.
I didn't think about putting Nylog on the backside of the flare as a lubricant until it was mentioned in these comments. It's a great idea. However, it is primarally a sealant, that's what the manufacturer says.
I would love to hear an update about how efficient it proves to be! Thank you for the video. I will be doing this myself soon
I averaged 6kWh/d From Aug.10-Sep10. During that time it kept the garage at 64 degrees F (and set to 64). My window AC (during previous 2 months) was averaging 11kWh/d and couldn't get the garage below 74. (window AC set to 60F) So, yeah, it's a whole lot more efficient than my window AC.
Great video and good installation. 38 SEER is nearly impossible to achieve. You may consider purchasing a gutter downspout and cutting it open to use around your exposed line set via attaching it to the house and the communication wires can be routed in conduit; some people run these into their disconnect box at the bottom and then run from there to the unit via "whip".
SEER != EER... carrier already had 42 SEER rated units... maybe you should update your brain on what is possible. HSPF is often more informative as to the effciency of the unit when running full blast (usually something like 15 or so on these high efficiency units), the fact is though that when running at lower output during different parts of the year it can in fact save that much power relative to a unit that cannot vary it's compressor output. For instance my Midea U window unit can throttle down to 2000BTU... regardless of the model 8000-18000 and hits 15 SEER in a window unit (its basically a micro split).
They sell actual lineset covers specifically to cover the lineset. It doesn't do anything but make it aesthetically pleasing. I guess it adds some UV protection to help prevent the lineset insulation from deterioration.
@@Wingnut353 15 seer is terrible. The EER rating is higher on this unit than your seer rating. EER is a better determination of the units efficiency. The 42 seer carrier is the same as the 38 seer unit he just installed just with a different plastic cover. Why is the same unit 4 seer higher? Because it's a faulty rating system.
With the AC update, you might add the Growatts as well, noticed one of the three Growatt is gone.
David, Ex HVAC guy here....FYI for the next one....you only needed to go to 100 maybe 150psi if your OCD......you turn off the nitrogen and do what is called a leak down test. it's a timed test that shows leakage and if the guages don't move in about a half hour your good to go but check with soapy bubbles in between. Also, go back and take the caps off the condenser valves after a few days of running and spray soapy bubbles on the valve that you turn out.....occasoinally those will leak after start up the unit. Shut off the unit and turn in the valve, put some sewing machine oil inside with your finger....enough to put a sheen on the inside and run it back out. If that doesn't work then some red locktite on the cap threads generally does the trick. Hope this helps.
That is a great idea. Thank you. I had never heard of that check before, but now I'll certainly have to go do it.
Great choice of music during this video
I read a lot of the comments, and suspect someone likely has mentioned this... but you really can't measure pressure (esp vacuum) with a refrigeration manifold. You need a proper vacuum gauge. Digital is best and can be had quite cheaply on Amazon. The leak would have to be pretty big to see it on a dial gauge :) Otherwise, this was really a great DIY project. (seeing that flaring tool took me back to my highschool HVAC days.... they're notorious for leaking for a bunch of reasons.... It might be worth getting an HVAC tech in to look over your system.... even though it looks "idiot proof"
He was actually using a quality flaring tool that was more than adequate.
You don't really need to measure the vacuum though? You're just going to be limited by the pump. The main test is the high pressure test. Are you saying this setup isn't good enough to detect that either?
@@benholroyd5221 the main purpose of vacuuming is to boil off any moisture in the lineset, since moisture will mix with the oil and burn the electrical connections. I personally break a vacuum after half an hour with nitrogen, since nitrogen can pull moisture with it. im not saying the way he did it is going to break the system. but if reading the manifold vacuum level, you will get an incorrect reading.
You should put some thread seal on the back of the flares also so that it prevents moisture and ice from building up between the neck of the flare nut and the pipe . This ensures that the pressure of the ice will not squeeze the flare causing a leak in a few years time or corrosion from moisture won't weaken the pipe . The oxygen free nitrogen used for pressure testing is great at absorbing moisture in the system which is then removed much easily when a vacuum is applied.
You have done a good job for someone who has no experience, probably a lot better than some apprentices .
Only missing part, and a major miss in my opinion, was the lack of a micron gauge being used during evacuation.
@@ianicus123 yes tell me about it I have an mg 44 field piece micron gauge love it
NYLOG rated for R410A
The nuts are all facing down so not much chance of holding water. I would never use tape on the flare nuts.
8.10.21 Very nice install David. Thanks for showing.
Great job! Way to get her done!
Good job David. 👍🏽
You might need the other little AC if the mini malfunctions as you found out prior to the Mr Cool unit.
Hmm, I was considering a Mr Cool unit. Are you saying that David had one and it failed?
@@georgedrenes8143 pretty sure all the small brands (those not labeled Mitsubishi, Fujitsu and a few others) are made by Gree.
@@RevM Thanks Mark. David clarified that he did have a Mr Cool, but had some issues. I need to do some more research before I spring for one of these mini-split units. I really need a multi-zpne unit that has three air handlers. I welcome any suggestions.
I have a Gree 24kBTU unit in a sewing room for my wife and a 24k BTU MR Cool DIY in my two car garage in West Texas we’re it gets cold and hot.
My two car garage 800 sqft really works well for me. On a 98 degree day I can cool the garage down to 75 degrees in about an hour. The heat side of the mini split works well too we had -6 degree temperatures here last winter and the garage wood shop was comfortable. Prior to that I had a Pioneer 12.k BTU mini Split the heat was great the cooling side was not as good. It would cool the shop but would take twice as long the Mr Cool.😁🛫
Drain pans are home to algae and if there is not sufficient flow, the algae will grow and fill up the pan causing those overflows you may see as wet spots on the ceiling for ceiling mounted units. For units close to the wall like yours, the water overflow will run down the wall. This is a maintenance item that is almost always overlooked. Bleach will kill the algae and a small amount added to the container will keep it flowing freely. The algae can also clog the overflow tube which is another problem. If needed this can be cleared by forcing water up the tube with a hose but be sure to not force the clog up the unit and into the room.There are also tablets you can purchase from an ac supply house and add one or two to the water in the tank every so often. Attention to this can save hundreds of dollars in repair costs and in service costs.
Good man! Very good, professional and diligent installation. It should work perfectly for you for 10-ish years before it needs leak check/refill.
Cheers.
My understanding of the SEER ratings is that they account for efficiency losses that occur from the AC cycling when the cooling needs are less than 100%, as would occur during some parts of the season. If your window unit is running full out due to being undersized, then the gains from switching to a high seer unit are not quite as impressive. However, other factors do cause higher seer ratings to actually deliver savings.
That's because seer is a stupid rating system. It factors in the seasons. For instance it's not going to take the same amount of electricity to put out 9000btu of cooling in 70° weather vs 9000btu in 95° weather.
My understanding of the SEER ratings is you get 1,000 Btu's of cooling per SEER per KW. So a 9 seer would give you 9,000 Btu's per KW while a 38 SEER rating is 38,000 Btu's per KW, or about 4 times as much cooling per KW of power consumed. One reason the window A/C is so low is the high wattage of the indoor and outdoor fan motor, they can use up to about 200 watts, while not cooling anything.
The ductless unit, indoor fan about 55 watts while the outdoor is less than 100 watts. The compressor is variable speed and also very energy efficient.
I have been repairing air conditioners since 1984.
Double check: most maximum length of run figures are for supply + return = maximum run without adding refrigerant or losing efficiency. It is not a distance of compressor to head figure in most cases. Carefully read the instructions as this is generally in the small print. Spraying soap will show a gross leak but any leak will deplete the refrigerant over time so the vacuum test pulled for and left for a couple hour period with a very accurate vacuum gauge (the manifold gauge is too gross in its scale) will tell the tale you really want to know. The gauges are not that expensive and well worth it. Mine will actually show the leakage that flexible test hoses will introduce. Another reason to use as short a hose as possible directly from the compressor to your pump with the one accurate gauge in line. The manifold is useful but when pulling a deep vacuum it can introduce components that bleed off the vacuum. In most cases your procedure will do just fine but if you are a DIY er and do not have a source for additional R410 you don't want to lose any. Also the smallest leak should there be one over months of time will lower the charge which can damage your unit as well as making it operate less and less efficiently. The measurement you should be dealing in is microns rather than psi. Pulling down and holding to less than ten microns is a good test.
I'd be very surprised if you got to 10 microns on a flare system, even using a Jim Bergmann setup 😉 😀
@@sprockkets That's what I was thinking, good luck on pulling less than 10 microns lol
Less than 500 is the standard test
Nice camera work Elaina! :)
Nice job. Nice to see a family in action