Mini Split Book on Our Website- www.acservicetech.com/mini-split-book Mini Split Book on Amazon- amzn.to/3ytHJSs Mini Split Book on TruTech Tools- www.trutechtools.com/BooksGuides Mini Split E-Book on Google- play.google.com/store/books/details?id=HN-iEAAAQBAJ Mini Split E-Book on Apple- books.apple.com/us/book/id6445178399
I've probably installed around 100 mini splits but still watched this video in its entirety. Wonderful teaching methods. Straight to the point, no frills. Just knowledge! Well done my friend.
Just bought a unit and a couple new items tripped me up. Would you mind addressing two more items?: 1. Units now require a 12V signal wire pair to between the air handler and the compressor. 2. Need to set dip switches for the measured static pressure on each fan speed. Low, medium, high.
Everyone of Craig's videos are better than any I've ever seen for someone wanting to learn or learn more. I half-ass learned HVAC the hard way: in the field. Although I got my refrigerant license back in 2001, I still don't know what those in the schools have learned. I learn from his videos, and I study them. Anyone would be blessed to be his apprentice. This is the best channel on the internet.
Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) ruclips.net/user/postUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.
As many others have spoke about, the white pipe insulation has been an issue on some units. After 2 years I had to replace my line set due to pin holes in the copper line caused by acidic reaction due to copper, insulation and moisture. My unit was a pioneer but have heard of others also. I now used a mueller line set with the black rubber insulation
So should you take off what they give you with the pipe and put the black on it instead? Or can you use the old lines to your old unit and make them fit? They're much older in my case 30 plus years old but they go to where I need them at and where I need to put the outside unit
@@samuelwotring633 I’m sure that old copper is good and probably better, but I would flush and then purge with nitrogen first. I would use black insulation, (on Minisplits you need to insulate both lines, since TXV is in outside unit)
yes thats actualy cheap chinese copper,vietnamesenreally poor metalurgy, if you use usa copper than even when the copper turns green wont develop pore holes
omg nobidy gets it still! its been verified over and over if you use the vacuum hole larger diameter back down restricting to 3/8 than it makes damn no diffrence at all,so mmany times me and my boos proged everyone wrong on this unlees you have the hose i believe 1/2 without narroqing down straight to that larger port adapter on the pump found on some yellow jacket bullet pumps than yes that will work butthose larger hoses than then narrow down to 3/8is a marketing sales gimmick
youre using a controller not a thermostat, yes it does a function of thermostat but additionally alot more & has a processing chip built in it,its actually pretty cool what you can do with it😊
Sr you are good in your work I am also ac tech from India looking your work is so learning even your tool is to good in India we don't have digital meters for pressure and vaccum ..my English is not to good
Clean install, only thing I would have done different, is forgo the surge protector and went with a ICM 493. Most people don't even add a surge protector.
A consistent issue I see in minisplits that are sold with the power communication wires between the outdoor unit and indoor unit, the power wires and ground must be the same size as the supply wiring. The NEC requires this, as the circuit breaker is to protect the wire, not the load. In this example video, that interconnect cable is not 10AWG size. Note that outdoor unit terminal strip is direct connection from the input power to this auxillary power connection. One solution is to install fuses inside the outdoor wiring cabinet to protect the smaller wire. Also, the latest NEC requires all HVAC units to be connected to a GFCI circuit breaker. I don't see any HVAC channel on youtube talking about that.
I've heard there might be a GFI requirement in Jan 2023 but I've also heard of problems using it with inverter mini's. I asked Senville and they told me NOT to use a GFI. Also mini's are considered appliances and appliances do not require GFI's, at least right now just like tankless water heaters.
Another great video! Some new tools too! Why have you switched to not encouraging the use of Nylog on the flare fittings? Looking forward to the new book!
Many manufacturers are against the use of Nylog. Installation manuals only encourage some oil placed on the face of the male side of the connection prior to torquing. I personally am not against it, however too many guys use Nylog improperly.
A truly professional instal. I enjoy eland love learning your technique. Its different here in Europe, but I will definitely apply your knowledge to my work.
Wow Craig I ordered this exact system. Nice to see how it gets installed. I downloaded the manual but couldn't find anything about using the remote to set things up. I also looked at the remote manual.
Craig mentioned loss of efficiency if you use a traditional thermostat. Is there any documentation that spells out what functionality you lose? Does it turn the system into a 1-stage because now it doesn't know the distance from target temp?
What's the point in the mini split if you're going to end up having ducts seems you would lose a ton efficiency? Either way, doesn't take away from a great video thanks
Because you still get the efficiency of the inverter heat pump motor. Static Duct loss can be designed out of the system by correct sizing. In most pre-existing situations with a standard split system they are usually way over sized in the first place. So at the time of switching over to a inverter system it now can be downsized to the proper size. And under original installations most HVAC technicians grossly under size deducting making it highly restrictive with lots of losses for that grossly oversize split system that was originally installed. So that original 3 ton or 4 ton system that was way oversized. That was originally fitted with duct work that was only large enough to accommodate 2 1/2 tons of airflow will now be perfect for a smaller inverter driven system.
The majority of heat pumps we deal with in Western Canada are water source and from what your seeing that the Evap is the problem for the leak and definitely airflow the high head pressure is the tell tale sign and then how it was confirmed on the low side with low Evap temp. It’s tough when it’s the in between season Steve to hit the moving target of pressures and temps and low load.
Excellent, meticulous video, however before you reinstallrd the Schrader core and purged the air out I think it's misleading to think the air in the Schrader removal tool is somehow stratified and is sitting at the end of the tool, in the chamber, closest to the exit port waiting to be ejected by a blast of purging refrigerant. The air in the shrader removal tool is a gas and immediately mixes throughout the whole system when it comes in contact with the refrigerant vapor. It's hard to avoid getting tiny amounts of air into the system.
I know you guys may not like the diy cob job. I have a gas furnace. I'm planning to replace it. I also currently have a caseless coil/ac system. In general sizing it all correctly is key. Can any correct sized coil go on any heat pump? What do you have to spec correctly. 2 ton coil for 2 ton condenser. Does heat pump or not matter for the coil choice?
Ok, great to see the 'best case' scenario, but what about when things don't go as planned? Leaks detected in the fittings, valve core, etc. It would be helpful to see how you resolve those issues as they come up.
My two hvac units are in the UN-conditioned attic space. Not a conditioned room such as you demonstrate. Not going to be air returns or changing air return filters in the attic or are the attic units that close to the outdoor units. Do you have a real world install video installing ducted mini-split in an attic?
Im installing this exact same set up and found this video, this is cooper hunter and im installing another brand but same manufacturer so this was perfect
Love your content. Late question. I see you cut the line set. Is there a minimum length the line set must be. I know some units require a minimum length of 16 feet. Thanks
Could you please do a video on the heatpump outdoor unit drainage during the winter months. Basically water drainage from the Defrost cycle. Also a video about pads and wall brackets would be great. I got the confidence I needed (thanks to you and some of the other great RUclips teachers) to install my own mini-split ducted, duel fuel system. I had no problems and it is heating my home right now. Thank you.
@JST , we get about one foot of snow max. So I got it higher than that. It is three degrees F here tonight. My duel fuel system has cycled quite a bit. My Aux heat\furnance has kicked in with it's 125k BTU. The heat pump definitely is helping to keep the house warm. At this outside temp, the heat pump is taking about 60% of the cycles.
Don't know if your reply was meant to be, but in my case, I just let it drop. Since my particular unit isn't in the sun, the water freezes there in a big mound until spring. It's annoying and I'll have to fix the mount but it's my secondary source of heat for now.
@@yewsuck5537 What's funny is one other mini split at a business barely has any, but is in the sun and they didn't mount it at all, just on a pad. Same area. As long as it can drain, somewhere, and not mess up anything, it is ok. I thought about piping it away but really, I think it would just freeze inside it and make it worse. The inner heater cable in mine seems to barely help.
In order for the torque wrench not to take into account the friction force, it is necessary to lubricate with oil between the nut and the rolled copper
Would it be possible to close in the service valves on the indoor unit before removing the caps, make all the connections, open them back up and use that nitrogen charge to leak test? Is there sufficient pressure in the coil from the factory?
I have the same unit but apparently newer model. Followed all instructions but was getting EL01 error which is communication between indoor and outdoor. Turns out the newest models are not using all 4 wires in the black cable. It now only uses the #1 and #2 lugs, and the ground. Requires a second wire pull as there is a new set of lugs labeled S1 and S2 that need to be connected between indoor and outdoor. Probably a safer solution for data to be over its own set of wires versus running data over power lines. Would have been nice if the directions that comes with the packaging made that clear. Only reference of this a small diagram on back of indoor unit upper cover.
Thank you for all the valuable Great Videos I wish you all the best Sir For the Under Load Capacitor Test Test capacitors while the system is running ( 2652 ) is for 60Hz only But For the 50Hz calculation we use ( 3183 ) like my country is using 50Hz
I know basically nothing about HVAC. I have charged my cars air condition and installed a mini split system. As a DIY more or less, probably motivated from watching your videos. Your comment about the electrical makes me wonder if you are a jersey boy? I'm trying to do research on replacing an old R 22 system. What's hard for me to figure out is that if I bought one of those all inclusive packages with a compressor and evaporator? What type of system would I need. The system that it would be replacing has an oil fired furnace. There is no propane or natural gas on the property. I'm wondering how you would tell what type of unit would come with an evaporator coil? ( there is central air that has a blower that blows through the current evaporator coil going straight up so I guess that would be a "vertical "). Do I have to see if the evaporator coil/unit package states something to say that it is compatible to put over oil fired furnace ??? I've become motivated by watching all these videos to the point that I just took my EPA 609 exam and I'm taking the EPA 608 this week . ;)
Can this unit accept a four-zone duct control system? I need to control supply to four rooms of which three are seldom used. Worried about pressure and efficiency with only one duct open. Thanks
In the end it's the same finish. CH give 7 and 5 years warranty and Gree can give u 10 years on dealer select. The same sizes for units and similar combinations and efficiency. The big difference I think is the price, but there are nice systems.
Question to anyone: Is it possible to connect the new outside condenser being installed here to a existing evaporator "A" coil inside the air handler in the basement which is fine. Like, if your AC condenser died outside ? Thanks for any feedback. Don't need to do it but wondering if it could be a less expensive work around for someone who cannot afford a entire new central AC system.
I just noticed that he is using the 1/4” core removal tool as a ball valve shutoff to the vacuum gauge. I was trying to find a link to a ball valve to protect the vacuum gauge but just noticed this after re-watching the video.
Is it possible to use a 24v thermostat with the standard Y/B/W wire connections at the outdoor unit on an inverter style heat pump, do you absolutely need an interface board to communicate with the outdoor unit.
could you explain what is happening when the inside and outside units are communicating back and forth, is it possible to bypass these interface boards, and connect like the non inverter units Y compressor B reversing valve
I have a 4 ton AC and a gas furnace that has an input BTU rating of 125,000. The furnace definitely is oversized for a 1,700 sq ft ranch. Wonder if a 5 ton MiniSplit would be good. I have to say, I love gas as a heat source, or perhaps the “backup” heat. MrCool had some nice solutions for this and are DYI capable should a skilled homeowner want to give it a run. I put a 1 ton MiniSplit in the garage and love it. Energy savings alone is so worth it. Love your channel as I pickup on some procedural tips that are so helpful. PS: do you wear a silicon wedding ring ?
If your house was recently built, and is to code, it's very likely your heat load is around 750sf/ton. If you have a ton of windows that number could be lower, if your house is sealed and insulated really well you could be at 1500st/ton. You really need someone to run an aggressive manual J.
I’m looking for a split system like this with an air handler for a small room with 3 vents but also add a wall unit in a different room. Any suggestions
I would have left one loop as fudge room - also, it is my understanding that you need to keep the line set at the length it was designed for as there is a minimum length. I was told a short line can reduce the efficiency.
@@halledwardb My cousin is a manager at Michael’s and said they’ve had a number of issues where people shortened the line length and created performance issues. Apparently the charge accounts for the 16’ line. When I installed my pioneer, I used a prefab 10’ line and support said it was fine. If CH is good with it, then your golden in my opinion.
Note the silk screen legens on the controller board. It shows S-485, RS485 is a serial communication hardware standard, for bi-directional communication. I don't know what the protocol of bytes would be on this, but I would guess it to be some proprietary version of MODBUS. Note there is a battery in the thermostat, most likely for power loss to save the settings. So those two wires also provide power for the microprocessor in the thermostat, as well serial bus power for it to communicate back. This would be what is known as diplexed serial communication over the low voltage power wires.
I tried to change fan setting from service menu on 18k BTU model but it didn't show me code C5 after changing. Where do I find service manual for my model?
@@ChrisJones1974 the best way to make it work like a normal AC without fan running all the time was to connect a regular 24v thermostat to it, in my case it’s Nest. Working like a charm.
I plan on installing this style of system at home this winter along with new ductwork. (The existing design from the 1950s is pretty ridiculous). I’m hoping my own personal experience with the system will translate into selling points for my customers 👍🏻 With that said, thanks for the video! Your timing couldn’t have been better. Btw, I’m planning to create a conditioned envelope in the attic and relocating the system to that area to free up headroom in my basement, which I’ve been seeing a lot lately in green home designs. Can’t wait to see how it turns out 👊🏻
I tried a digital torque wrench for cars and find they always allow you to over torque, I recon the old school wrenches that click out are much better the beeps even put you off 😂
Nilog blue works great for straight threads. NPT threads (tapered) and flared compression fittings, such as the end of a lineset, are sealed using metal-to-metal wedging and compression, respectively. No nilog or other thread sealant is necessary.
,actually youre supposed use vacuum oil coating flares thats your best best gasket mterial,thats from mitsubishi,daikin etc.. im sure all manufacturers
Where else is it supposed to go? There's just the coil behind it and you can access the coil from above and below so it won't ever be an issue. The unit is designed that way...but maybe it would be better if the connections were facing left instead of right (bad design maybe).
I'll be calling, I'm going to need a 98% gas furnace with the mini split... The wife said she wants the furnace so thay means the floor furnace has to come out, Then ill.have to have a plenum to hooked 8 ven6s too.... Soon. moet likely within one year...
Mini Split Book on Our Website- www.acservicetech.com/mini-split-book
Mini Split Book on Amazon- amzn.to/3ytHJSs
Mini Split Book on TruTech Tools- www.trutechtools.com/BooksGuides
Mini Split E-Book on Google- play.google.com/store/books/details?id=HN-iEAAAQBAJ
Mini Split E-Book on Apple- books.apple.com/us/book/id6445178399
I've probably installed around 100 mini splits but still watched this video in its entirety. Wonderful teaching methods. Straight to the point, no frills. Just knowledge! Well done my friend.
Just bought a unit and a couple new items tripped me up. Would you mind addressing two more items?: 1. Units now require a 12V signal wire pair to between the air handler and the compressor. 2. Need to set dip switches for the measured static pressure on each fan speed. Low, medium, high.
That was the best step by step tutorial on RUclips! Well done 👏 👌
Everyone of Craig's videos are better than any I've ever seen for someone wanting to learn or learn more. I half-ass learned HVAC the hard way: in the field. Although I got my refrigerant license back in 2001, I still don't know what those in the schools have learned. I learn from his videos, and I study them. Anyone would be blessed to be his apprentice. This is the best channel on the internet.
Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) ruclips.net/user/postUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.
i hope your mini split book comes out in spanish too that would be great ......you are the best teacher ever
We are working on the spanish translation now, thanks!
Great video! Pan head screws to attach the filter frame… YES. Such a simple detail that makes a big difference when swapping filters.
Question could you put electronic filter there or the 5-in for 5-in Hospital filter replacement
In earlier videos you put a tiny amount of oil on the flange surfaces of the connections. So that is not recommended any longer?
I was wondering the same thing.
I was always taught to do this and I feel like it’s still good to do… idk
Manufactures recommend you to do that
I also use Nylog Blue on all flared connections. I sleep better at night. To each her/his own I guess.
Use nylog or refrigerant oil
My man i have to tell you that you are a master i am in the field never seen like you . congratulations for your skills .
Always read service manuals absolutely a must.
My goodness this was the best instructional video ever. Thanks SO much my friend.
As many others have spoke about, the white pipe insulation has been an issue on some units. After 2 years I had to replace my line set due to pin holes in the copper line caused by acidic reaction due to copper, insulation and moisture. My unit was a pioneer but have heard of others also. I now used a mueller line set with the black rubber insulation
So should you take off what they give you with the pipe and put the black on it instead? Or can you use the old lines to your old unit and make them fit? They're much older in my case 30 plus years old but they go to where I need them at and where I need to put the outside unit
@@samuelwotring633 I’m sure that old copper is good and probably better, but I would flush and then purge with nitrogen first. I would use black insulation, (on Minisplits you need to insulate both lines, since TXV is in outside unit)
yes thats actualy cheap chinese copper,vietnamesenreally poor metalurgy, if you use usa copper than even when the copper turns green wont develop pore holes
omg nobidy gets it still! its been verified over and over if you use the vacuum hole larger diameter back down restricting to 3/8 than it makes damn no diffrence at all,so mmany times me and my boos proged everyone wrong on this unlees you have the hose i believe 1/2 without narroqing down straight to that larger port adapter on the pump found on some yellow jacket bullet pumps than yes that will work butthose larger hoses than then narrow down to 3/8is a marketing sales gimmick
youre using a controller not a thermostat, yes it does a function of thermostat but additionally alot more & has a processing chip built in it,its actually pretty cool what you can do with it😊
You make everything looks so easy. Thanks for making these videos, they are really helpful. Greetings from Mexico.
The perfect install! Nobody knows mini-split installs like Craig Migliaccio knows them.
Thank you for your videos they are very important for these new machines in the state of TENNESSE to install
The biggest consumption of energy will always be the compressor . Yes it’s worth using .
I really enjoyed watching all the steps of the installation
Thanks for such as excellent videos
Keep going with more.
Sr you are good in your work I am also ac tech from India looking your work is so learning even your tool is to good in India we don't have digital meters for pressure and vaccum ..my English is not to good
Now there is practical versitility . Thanks
Nice work,is amazing to see as you bend the 5/8 size with your hand.
That was excellent walkthrough. Thanks!
Clean install, only thing I would have done different, is forgo the surge protector and went with a ICM 493. Most people don't even add a surge protector.
A consistent issue I see in minisplits that are sold with the power communication wires between the outdoor unit and indoor unit, the power wires and ground must be the same size as the supply wiring. The NEC requires this, as the circuit breaker is to protect the wire, not the load. In this example video, that interconnect cable is not 10AWG size. Note that outdoor unit terminal strip is direct connection from the input power to this auxillary power connection. One solution is to install fuses inside the outdoor wiring cabinet to protect the smaller wire.
Also, the latest NEC requires all HVAC units to be connected to a GFCI circuit breaker. I don't see any HVAC channel on youtube talking about that.
I've heard there might be a GFI requirement in Jan 2023 but I've also heard of problems using it with inverter mini's. I asked Senville and they told me NOT to use a GFI. Also mini's are considered appliances and appliances do not require GFI's, at least right now just like tankless water heaters.
Another great video! Some new tools too! Why have you switched to not encouraging the use of Nylog on the flare fittings?
Looking forward to the new book!
Many manufacturers are against the use of Nylog. Installation manuals only encourage some oil placed on the face of the male side of the connection prior to torquing. I personally am not against it, however too many guys use Nylog improperly.
A truly professional instal. I enjoy eland love learning your technique. Its different here in Europe, but I will definitely apply your knowledge to my work.
Wow Craig I ordered this exact system. Nice to see how it gets installed. I downloaded the manual but couldn't find anything about using the remote to set things up. I also looked at the remote manual.
Craig mentioned loss of efficiency if you use a traditional thermostat. Is there any documentation that spells out what functionality you lose? Does it turn the system into a 1-stage because now it doesn't know the distance from target temp?
What's the point in the mini split if you're going to end up having ducts seems you would lose a ton efficiency? Either way, doesn't take away from a great video thanks
Because you still get the efficiency of the inverter heat pump motor.
Static Duct loss can be designed out of the system by correct sizing.
In most pre-existing situations with a standard split system they are usually way over sized in the first place.
So at the time of switching over to a inverter system it now can be downsized to the proper size.
And under original installations most HVAC technicians grossly under size deducting making it highly restrictive with lots of losses for that grossly oversize split system that was originally installed.
So that original 3 ton or 4 ton system that was way oversized. That was originally fitted with duct work that was only large enough to accommodate 2 1/2 tons of airflow will now be perfect for a smaller inverter driven system.
@@coldfinger459sub0 Yes is surprising how lazy these systems were not designed.
@@halledwardb what’s a lazy system ? .
The majority of heat pumps we deal with in Western Canada are water source and from what your seeing that the Evap is the problem for the leak and definitely airflow the high head pressure is the tell tale sign and then how it was confirmed on the low side with low Evap temp. It’s tough when it’s the in between season Steve to hit the moving target of pressures and temps and low load.
Excellent, meticulous video, however before you reinstallrd the Schrader core and purged the air out I think it's misleading to think the air in the Schrader removal tool is somehow stratified and is sitting at the end of the tool, in the chamber, closest to the exit port waiting to be ejected by a blast of purging refrigerant. The air in the shrader removal tool is a gas and immediately mixes throughout the whole system when it comes in contact with the refrigerant vapor. It's hard to avoid getting tiny amounts of air into the system.
Look forward to the mini split book! Will there be a troubleshooting section?
I know you guys may not like the diy cob job. I have a gas furnace. I'm planning to replace it. I also currently have a caseless coil/ac system. In general sizing it all correctly is key. Can any correct sized coil go on any heat pump? What do you have to spec correctly. 2 ton coil for 2 ton condenser. Does heat pump or not matter for the coil choice?
I liked that metal folding tool what a great tool, she’s on the list 😍
Ok, great to see the 'best case' scenario, but what about when things don't go as planned? Leaks detected in the fittings, valve core, etc. It would be helpful to see how you resolve those issues as they come up.
My two hvac units are in the UN-conditioned attic space. Not a conditioned room such as you demonstrate. Not going to be air returns or changing air return filters in the attic or are the attic units that close to the outdoor units. Do you have a real world install video installing ducted mini-split in an attic?
Im installing this exact same set up and found this video, this is cooper hunter and im installing another brand but same manufacturer so this was perfect
Love your content. Late question. I see you cut the line set. Is there a minimum length the line set must be. I know some units require a minimum length of 16 feet.
Thanks
Could you please do a video on the heatpump outdoor unit drainage during the winter months. Basically water drainage from the Defrost cycle. Also a video about pads and wall brackets would be great. I got the confidence I needed (thanks to you and some of the other great RUclips teachers) to install my own mini-split ducted, duel fuel system. I had no problems and it is heating my home right now. Thank you.
Depending on your temps and snow fall determines how far off the ground you need to mount it. IF you already installed it it kinda is too late.
@JST , we get about one foot of snow max. So I got it higher than that. It is three degrees F here tonight. My duel fuel system has cycled quite a bit. My Aux heat\furnance has kicked in with it's 125k BTU. The heat pump definitely is helping to keep the house warm. At this outside temp, the heat pump is taking about 60% of the cycles.
Don't know if your reply was meant to be, but in my case, I just let it drop. Since my particular unit isn't in the sun, the water freezes there in a big mound until spring. It's annoying and I'll have to fix the mount but it's my secondary source of heat for now.
@@sprockkets thar is what I am doing right now. Making a ice lake.
@@yewsuck5537 What's funny is one other mini split at a business barely has any, but is in the sun and they didn't mount it at all, just on a pad. Same area.
As long as it can drain, somewhere, and not mess up anything, it is ok. I thought about piping it away but really, I think it would just freeze inside it and make it worse. The inner heater cable in mine seems to barely help.
In order for the torque wrench not to take into account the friction force, it is necessary to lubricate with oil between the nut and the rolled copper
Would it be possible to close in the service valves on the indoor unit before removing the caps, make all the connections, open them back up and use that nitrogen charge to leak test? Is there sufficient pressure in the coil from the factory?
I have the same unit but apparently newer model. Followed all instructions but was getting EL01 error which is communication between indoor and outdoor. Turns out the newest models are not using all 4 wires in the black cable. It now only uses the #1 and #2 lugs, and the ground. Requires a second wire pull as there is a new set of lugs labeled S1 and S2 that need to be connected between indoor and outdoor. Probably a safer solution for data to be over its own set of wires versus running data over power lines. Would have been nice if the directions that comes with the packaging made that clear. Only reference of this a small diagram on back of indoor unit upper cover.
Since it’s in a conditioned space….can the air handler be without fiberglass?
Thank you for all the valuable Great Videos I wish you all the best
Sir
For the Under Load Capacitor Test
Test capacitors while the system is running
( 2652 ) is for 60Hz only
But For the 50Hz calculation we use ( 3183 ) like my country is using 50Hz
Great Video, are those heat pump air handler really work good in cold climate winter ( hyper heat without heat strip) ?
I know basically nothing about HVAC. I have charged my cars air condition and installed a mini split system. As a DIY more or less, probably motivated from watching your videos.
Your comment about the electrical makes me wonder if you are a jersey boy?
I'm trying to do research on replacing an old R
22 system.
What's hard for me to figure out is that if I bought one of those all inclusive packages with a compressor and evaporator? What type of system would I need.
The system that it would be replacing has an oil fired furnace. There is no propane or natural gas on the property.
I'm wondering how you would tell what type of unit would come with an evaporator coil? ( there is central air that has a blower that blows through the current evaporator coil going straight up so I guess that would be a "vertical ").
Do I have to see if the evaporator coil/unit package states something to say that it is compatible to put over oil fired furnace ???
I've become motivated by watching all these videos to the point that I just took my EPA 609 exam and I'm taking the EPA 608 this week .
;)
Can this unit accept a four-zone duct control system? I need to control supply to four rooms of which three are seldom used. Worried about pressure and efficiency with only one duct open. Thanks
Excellent video Craig and greetings from Denmark :)
Do you have any video of how to troubleshoot this kind of communication system?
I'm trying to pick a system for my shop. How is CH compared to Gree? Great vids, the current books are great.
In the end it's the same finish. CH give 7 and 5 years warranty and Gree can give u 10 years on dealer select. The same sizes for units and similar combinations and efficiency. The big difference I think is the price, but there are nice systems.
Thats a nice flare tool. not like the one for car brakes where half the time it splits the copper
Question to anyone: Is it possible to connect the new outside condenser being installed here to a existing evaporator "A" coil inside the air handler in the basement which is fine. Like, if your AC condenser died outside ? Thanks for any feedback. Don't need to do it but wondering if it could be a less expensive work around for someone who cannot afford a entire new central AC system.
I doubt it would work properly because both units need to talk to each other...Missing sensor inputs to the control boards will cause errors.
excelente instalación, siempre la mejor información ¡¡¡¡¡ saludos desde argentina
fantastic job Craig thank you
thank you sir for great video
I just noticed that he is using the 1/4” core removal tool as a ball valve shutoff to the vacuum gauge. I was trying to find a link to a ball valve to protect the vacuum gauge but just noticed this after re-watching the video.
Great job, thank you brother. You are so talented
Is it possible to use a 24v thermostat with the standard Y/B/W wire connections at the outdoor unit on an inverter style heat pump, do you absolutely need an interface board to communicate with the outdoor unit.
could you explain what is happening when the inside and outside units are communicating back and forth, is it possible to bypass these interface boards, and connect like the non inverter units Y compressor B reversing valve
Hello, does this particular unit utilize any form of hot gas reclamation?
I have a 4 ton AC and a gas furnace that has an input BTU rating of 125,000. The furnace definitely is oversized for a 1,700 sq ft ranch. Wonder if a 5 ton MiniSplit would be good. I have to say, I love gas as a heat source, or perhaps the “backup” heat. MrCool had some nice solutions for this and are DYI capable should a skilled homeowner want to give it a run. I put a 1 ton MiniSplit in the garage and love it. Energy savings alone is so worth it. Love your channel as I pickup on some procedural tips that are so helpful. PS: do you wear a silicon wedding ring ?
Manual J calculation would be recommended.
@@halledwardb I agree
If your house was recently built, and is to code, it's very likely your heat load is around 750sf/ton. If you have a ton of windows that number could be lower, if your house is sealed and insulated really well you could be at 1500st/ton.
You really need someone to run an aggressive manual J.
So no more using nylog on the flare surface anymore?
that eccentric flare tool is the damn shit, husky $50 at home depot same exact damn tool from yellow jacket is $200. &it has a clutch on top of it
I got a kick out of the torque wrench , to talk about the specs to just over torqe both of them 😅. Great video tho
What if you have two zones? Can you connect a second thermostat to the air handler
Very impressive unit
I’m looking for a split system like this with an air handler for a small room with 3 vents but also add a wall unit in a different room.
Any suggestions
Do you not need a breather tube on the condensation line?
This cooper hunter is exactly the same unit as Direct air sold in Canada
I love this channel
How do you wire a heat strip 220v single phase to a two phase panel?
Nice clean install
EXELENT job clean and nitid
I would have left one loop as fudge room - also, it is my understanding that you need to keep the line set at the length it was designed for as there is a minimum length. I was told a short line can reduce the efficiency.
I thought that the accumulator made the efficiency not an issue. Also the should be a minimum length so that the accumulator doesn't get full.
@@halledwardb My cousin is a manager at Michael’s and said they’ve had a number of issues where people shortened the line length and created performance issues. Apparently the charge accounts for the 16’ line. When I installed my pioneer, I used a prefab 10’ line and support said it was fine. If CH is good with it, then your golden in my opinion.
Any idea what the running wattage of this unit is?
What size of pvc pipe are you using here?
Can you use argon instead of nitrogen to do a pressure test?
Yes
Thanks for the video. 👍🤘🤙👊👌
How does that t-stat tell the system to use heat pump or ac with only 2 wires?
Because they are a communication systems.
Note the silk screen legens on the controller board. It shows S-485, RS485 is a serial communication hardware standard, for bi-directional communication. I don't know what the protocol of bytes would be on this, but I would guess it to be some proprietary version of MODBUS. Note there is a battery in the thermostat, most likely for power loss to save the settings. So those two wires also provide power for the microprocessor in the thermostat, as well serial bus power for it to communicate back. This would be what is known as diplexed serial communication over the low voltage power wires.
The white wire is hot 230 vac, by code it should be re appropriated with color tape or other means. white is always neutral except in dc circuit’s.
I tried to change fan setting from service menu on 18k BTU model but it didn't show me code C5 after changing. Where do I find service manual for my model?
I had the same issue.
@@ChrisJones1974 the best way to make it work like a normal AC without fan running all the time was to connect a regular 24v thermostat to it, in my case it’s Nest. Working like a charm.
I plan on installing this style of system at home this winter along with new ductwork. (The existing design from the 1950s is pretty ridiculous). I’m hoping my own personal experience with the system will translate into selling points for my customers 👍🏻 With that said, thanks for the video! Your timing couldn’t have been better.
Btw, I’m planning to create a conditioned envelope in the attic and relocating the system to that area to free up headroom in my basement, which I’ve been seeing a lot lately in green home designs. Can’t wait to see how it turns out 👊🏻
That 50yr old system you have is most likely better than anything today
@@ping_me1vp system is a fuel hog from the 80s. Ductwork is 50 yo and not big enough for cooling. Older is definitely not always better…
I tried a digital torque wrench for cars and find they always allow you to over torque, I recon the old school wrenches that click out are much better the beeps even put you off 😂
Craig. I thought nilog blue was a good idea to use for leaks. But maybe not.
Nilog blue works great for straight threads. NPT threads (tapered) and flared compression fittings, such as the end of a lineset, are sealed using metal-to-metal wedging and compression, respectively. No nilog or other thread sealant is necessary.
Tremendous video
Did U use nylon????
Don't forget the flare nut😅. Everybody forgets the flare nut at least once.
What about fresh air ?
So easy.
,actually youre supposed use vacuum oil coating flares thats your best best gasket mterial,thats from mitsubishi,daikin etc.. im sure all manufacturers
pressatura con azoto non la fai prima di fare i vuoto?
Good
Why would you run the line set across the door now its going to be a pain in the ass for the service man who comes to maintenance the equipment
Where else is it supposed to go? There's just the coil behind it and you can access the coil from above and below so it won't ever be an issue.
The unit is designed that way...but maybe it would be better if the connections were facing left instead of right (bad design maybe).
@@pitaeata8493 do a j hook run it to the right
@@pitaeata8493 definitely poor designer planning
music is lit
I'd be bleeding in 5 minutes, headed to the ER!
Just remember that any extra electrical connector on any wires can get a loss of power and use more electricity
Why no line dryer / filter?
Commonly known to cause restrictions on rotary inverter compressors, thus not used on mini splits
I have an all outdoor unit, xan this design work outdoors too?
I'll be calling, I'm going to need a 98% gas furnace with the mini split... The wife said she wants the furnace so thay means the floor furnace has to come out, Then ill.have to have a plenum to hooked 8 ven6s too.... Soon. moet likely within one year...
why does this model look just like the Mr cool AC?
lets do a mini split with branch box.
That would be nice.