I bought and installed one of these about a month ago, and immediately bought and installed a second one. You didn't mention it, but the wifi programming options and controls are outstanding. Way more features and capabilities than I could have even imagined.
How could I possible be sorry? For what these cost and difficulty of installation, not to mention the great performance, 2 years would still be a win. 5 years would be a grand slam. Otherwise I don't see massive amounts of failures of these units, other than less than stellar installations.@@thomaswayneward
Mines been running since 2013, I've literally cleaned the outdoor unit once. Let me guess, you're in the trade and worried about everyone finding out that standard AC is shithouse, lmao@@thomaswayneward
@@spazzman90I have installed at least 15 of the even cheaper ones from eBay over the past couple of years and all are still working great. I have 3 of them installed in my own house and the features are getting better every time I order a couple of them. And yes five years is definitely a win. Eat a d&$k previous poster 😂
@@spazzman90he’s sorry because ppl have the information they need to install these mini splits themselves or have them installed. We had a guy come out 2 years ago bc it kept tripping the breaker. He tried to quote us $20k for a new ac unit only, for a 3 bedroom one level condo. I told him to get out…Nothing was actually wrong, it just needed some service that my husband did himself. Here we are, another hot summer almost over and she’s still going strong. If we do decide to replace it before we move, it’ll be a mini split. Installed by a professional bc the hoa is VERY anti DIY, of course. They’re so ridiculous and nosy they want to know if you paint your own interior walls. Hence the reason we can’t wait to sell it.
@@diyhvacguy Interesting. I expected to see some familiar Midea stuff but it all looks basically like they took the cost out of EVERYTHING. If the internals are basically the same then that's a win at the bottom of the market.
why such large pricing differences? Simply because Pioneer has their name out and is known for efficiency? I'm completely off grid in Cabo with four 48v EVE280 battery banks. I did an unheard of thing with Mexican construction, I insulated the walls and roof as good as possible (6-18" EPS). Windows suck because I went with 12mm safety glass due to hurricanes. All I can think of is swapping out higher SEER mini-splits. Next house, I will haul proper windows down from California since my buddy works for Sierra Pacific.
@@stiffmeister0hYeah Mr Cool is pretty expensive these days. Their kit is nice for DIY and they do have the warranty. Still it sucks to pay like twice the cost for probably pretty much the same system. Although for my first system (18k gen 3 single zone) I guess the extra cost paid for itself when I needed a new condenser. And I got a gen 4 upgrade out of it, too.
I put a Pioneer in my garage. My install was very much like this except I ran the lineset down the inside of the garage. The wall is concrete block. It's been providing silent heating and cooling for a number of years now. I love it.
I installed a 9,000 btu Cooper & Hunter in my office two summers ago. I now have a different Della 12,000 btu unit than this to install in my bedroom. The listing in the description is for a 230v, the 115v unit I ordered is $100 more. And the C&H unit is now around $850. Not too hard for someone handy to install and the cooling in the summer is great, and heating in the winter is great. Hoping to get all the rooms in my house with mini split systems and my solar panels installed (there on a pallet in my shop right now, haha), then my propane bill will be cut a lot in the winter.
Overall I like your installation. 3 comment: 1. I would not run the lineset inside the drywall. If there is water leaking for whatever reason, it won't leak inside the wall and goes unnoticed until it is too late. I would put the lineset to the outside and cover it with lineset cover. 2. I would check the leak at the connection points after releasing the refrigerant before I tape it up. The pressure in the lineset will be much higher when running in heat mode and will show any subtle leak. Holding the vacuum does not guarantee no slow leak. 3. Minimum lineset length is about 10 ft from the MFR. Does it really make a difference if shorter? I am not sure. Maybe just less efficient.
I'm just a DIYer, but your points make sense--especially #1. I thought how easy it was to run those lines up inside the wall cavity when there's no insulation 😂 but when you have it, running lines outside avoids a lot of issues!
The reason for minimum length lineset is it acts as an accumulator, which acts tike a shock absorber and help in gas / liquid phase separation, having this properly done helps with the longevity of the unit and minimum warranty issues with many units?
@@sus8e462 Wow, I didn't even think about the fact that there's no insulation in that exterior wall. That's crazy. It would never fly where I live. I can't think of many places that no insulation would be ok. Maybe some amazing tropical paradise?
1/4 " or 6mm tube is appx .35 of an oz per foot liquid, 3/8" pr 9 , 10 mm tubes are appx .6 oz/ ft liq charge..best to re calculate your missing length, the i d tag should display charge on it, subtract your missing length amount from tag info, and adjust the total charge to prevent inverter compressor damage in high heat, cool demands or high compressor speeds. These units utilize multiple ptc sensors on the tubing, the coils and indoor, outdoor ambients. Electronic calculations adjust refrigerant flow and speeds of fans and compressor speeds.. according to these measurements..shortening the lineset changes three, sub cooling/glide/superheat all measured in metric. It may run irratically, inefficiently, shorter lifespan with warranty issues. Good job though . Hvacguy6 in Michigan.. Ps..stay on top of filter screens..3 to 6 month intervals. I guided installing a few of these on rv busses for Nascar enthusiasts outside my hvacr job..
Couple notes: check the minimum inset length before cutting line set. Mont mini splits have a minimum line let length of 10 feet. Golding any shorter will shorten the life of the compressor. My Della had a 10 foot minimum. Also check the manual for minimum clearance from the back of the compressor to the wall. Most are 12 inches. My Della was 12 inches. It looks like your install was less than 12 inches from the wall and your line set was less than 10 feet.
Agreed. This young man most definately did not read a single page of the manual lol. The HOA shouldnt be hiring their cousins step son. He seems nice enough but that doesnt help the ac unit. 😢
I just installed a 4 zone 36k BTU Della 220V on my cabin. The install was super easy. I ran one line set inside an interior drywalled wall and that was a tad difficult by myself but it worked out... The only thing I overlooked was to install the drain line under the refrigerant lines... I was worried that I might have water backup and overflow the interior pan but it was fine and drains without leaking. I'm super impressed with the Della unit!
Great video, thanks for the upload👍 March 2021, I pulled the trigger on an Aircon International Titanium Series 12000 BTU Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner from Wayfair for $683.24 plus tax, & free shipping. Installed myself, had a HVAC buddy pull vacuum and release the refrigerant. I checked today, the same system is $875.10. Installations are simple if you're handy and can follow directions... I wouldn't hesitate to do it again.
I live in Brazil, but WOW, I can find 12,000 BTU in Paraguay at a cost of $370.00 made by Gree or for $320 Eco-gree, $310 Megastar, $330 Midea-carrier and $310 COBY. All of these are not inverter but I prefer the ON/OFF model because they are easier to repair. Inverter board repair costs 30 to 50% of the value of a new air conditioner or a new inverter board that would cost something around 80% of a complete new one.
I installed a 220V Della 12,000 BTU unit about two months ago. I agree, it was easy, it only took me about 8hrs to install. It took the place of a wall mounted window unit similar to what you did. I also used the existing 220V that powered the existing unit.
i too am in the process of installing the 12000 btu 220 v unit just curious what you used for an outside disconnect as the smallest unit i have found is a 30 amp and this particular unit draws much less than that i also found the instruction manual from della to be terrible this video answered so many questions thanks so much
"easy" is relative. this looks extremely easy to me. Ive never done it. but ive done plenty of drywall, siding repair, mounted tons of brackets, (tv mounts, speakers, lights, etc) and fished wires and cables through walls. piece of cake.
Just about everything requires some special tools. Just buy the tools. Professionals usually buy good tools but there's plenty of budget options from Amazon and Harbor Freight that are plenty good enough to get a job done.
What I heard the best option for coiling up extra line set is to do it horizontally. Since their should be a J bend, you could just make the outdoor J bend near the condenser connection and coil up any additional underneath the condenser, especially since you have it on the mounting bracket. It would be nice and out of the way. Also, I really like those in ceiling cassettes. I might do something like that for my garage to keep it below 80F in the summer and over 40F in the winter. I have two electric cars and it would be nice to reduce the extremes that they deal with more often.
Very nice install most installers would never go to this much trouble to do an install, I love these mini-splits. I put a Mr Cool 18K in 7 months ago and I wish the conduit cover was made like this one, so much easier to work with. The electrical cover was the only thing I thought was wonky at the time I installed it.
I just installed the same system. All these videos show taping up all of the copper lines during the install. I didn't wrap anything until I pressure tested the lines then spray all the brass connections with soapy water from a spray bottle to check for leaks. If you wrap everything you can't check for leaks and all of your freon will leak out costing you money to hire someone plus replacing all the freon
Great job, and looks like a nice unit. One big mistake (and major NEC Code Violation) was that metal box for the 120v buried in the wall. Huge no-no. You should have relocated the disconnect so you could simply have run the existing power cable directly into it, or installed a blank cover on the existing former outlet box inside. Buried boxes have caused fires in the past, if a splice inside fails.
I appreciate all your videos. Makes me feel like I can attempt some of these easier hvac projects. I can get 110v 1 ton heat/cool units in Mexico for 260, 2 ton for 460. My central is over 20 years old and super inefficient. I am contemplating putting split units in every room and having the old central as backup only.
Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) ruclips.net/user/postUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.
At 1:35 you have an electrical box that you removed and it looks like it will be buried in the wall. This is a code violation unless the box is accessible.
@@Kevin-mp5of we need to find out if he the cable went all the way to the disconnect, or if it’s spliced in the disconnect. I love his hvac skills, but wish he could do better on the electric side.
was there no insulation to begin with in that outside wall? Was that in a climate that would require it? Just curious. I didn't see any vapor barrier or insulation.
Most likely with the home being from the late 60s early 70s exterior walls may have been tongue and groove and at that time felt insulation wasn’t needed. I had several homes I’ve owned in the northeast that were all tongue and groove exterior walls and no insulation. All those houses were built pre 1960 that I’ve experienced.
My brother and I installed a mr cool one at his cabin in about 3 hours and it was really easy the hardest part was trying to get everything lined up with the old hole that was there from the old unit after that we had it running within the 3 hours. Both of us had never done this before either.
Installed this same unit about a month ago. I already had an identical (12k) unit on the other side of my house and this one took me over the standard ratio of 20 btu's/sqft. It actually enabled both units to run at lower power levels and achieve super stable indoor temps. They work well heating over the winter and dropped my electric bill by over 100$/month over the summer. They seem slightly less efficient in the colder months, but I could insulate a little better. Paid for themselves in less than 6 months. It motivated me to follow through with the solar panel install.
You put copper behind a wall and it will rot your wall out with moisture dripping inside the wall. That copper the electrical and the drain go straight outside from the evaporator so there’s only 4 inches of copper in between the walls. The rest of the copper stays outside you should make straight runs and cut its links to fit correctly. Which means you’ll need to pull a vacuum after you weld your copper up.
There was an outlet there for the lamp and the old air conditioner. Why not just run the power into that box and leave the outlet there for the lamp? Now you have to remove the lamp. .
I agree with some other comments about running a drain down to the ground, but gotta make it look good. Maybe small pvc over to the inside corner of the wall and then straight down the corner, painted to match the siding obviously, which would make it basically invisible.
My semi-detached wife had some Mitsubishi Mini split units installed on her place last year (no previous A/C and hydronic radian heat) in Chicago. The work great (as they should for the $$). I've been looking to install one or two on my house. I want to get a unit that has the floor mount exchanger rather than the wall mount as it's a vintage house. One note on these all in one/retail units is that many of the copper lines are junk. Better to buy a good flaring tool and quality tubing. Also, the DIY pressure/leak testing on some of these is quite minimal and really should be done with nitrogen and proper gauges.
Thank you for the instructional video. What if you need to locate the outside compressor fan unit horizontally to the hole through the wall? What considerations and limits are there in locating the compressor? I assume you need to maintain a slope in the piping to ensure gravity feed. How high off the ground is best, I have a brick wall that opens to the courtyard garden where I would like to locate the Condensing Unit. How far from the Internal unit can you locate the compressor. Condensing unit? Pros and cons of location. The other side of the brick wall where I want to install the unit is the garbage storage location.
Any uninsulated and or exposed copper inside the wall will damage your wall. The copper Hass to go straight out the hole from the inside evaporator, leaving only four or 5 inches in between your interior and exterior walls the copper line set Hass to be totally wrapped and insulated when it goes through the wall And your drain line Hass to go through the same hole so if you put your drain line on top of your copper, on its way, going out, your evaporator pan will overflow on your floor. You have to have a constant downward slope on your drain. If you don’t use an external powered drain pump.
Could have definitely gone out the right hand side and run the lineset in slimduct so it can be accessed at a later date if needed. Running linesets in a closed in wall is a no no in our company.
You should consider doing a video on how to upgrade to a larger mini-split system (how do you get the refridgerant back to the compressor before you disconnect the line). It seems no one has done that on RUclips. Everyone does a new install. Thank you for all the videos.
This is one of the most thorough mini split install videos I've seen on RUclips. My question is what do you do if the system leaks at say the flare fitting and you need to repair and then add refrigerant? I cannot find R32 for sale anywhere in the US.
It´s interesting that they cheaped out on the side cover and the brass inlet and outlet are open to the elements just like that. I´d prbably put some insulation on them so that they don´t sweat.
Yes they’re not heavy at all. I prefer these ones though. I did a test with a bunch of drywall anchors and these held a lot more weight. Equally as easy to install. Thanks for the input
Nice install. Those head units don't weigh hardly anything so even just basic plastic anchors would hold it just fine. I use plastic screw in anchors made for sheetrock. They hold 75+ pounds per anchor. I have used them for years with no issues.
I'd be more worried about the vibrations from the blower and the coils on such a thin anchor over time. I would've probably used a mounting board, Maybe as thin as a 1" oak board. I'd be interested to know if they hold up past a couple of years.
@@Drebin2293I too noticed that! Yes! (Un-)Screw the wall! Why trust it?! A few bucks--hardly any additional time? If you need to replace--already done! And, done-right!
My wife and I replaced our furnace adding center air at the same time in our American Fork home. Best investment we’ve made in our late 1940s home. A previous homeowner sliced off a corner of the garage and turned into insulated space. It has a 240v baseboard heater as there’s no way to connect a duct from the central system. I’ve been considering a DIY mini-split ac installation. Is the fancy core removal tool and valve kit essential? A previous commenter suggested renting an automobile vacuum extraction setup. Is that adequate? Is there a way Joe blow handyman homeowner could evacuate the lines w/o the vacuum pump?
you need a 2 stage pump and guages(preferably a micron guage) to get a deep vacuum in the lines. The deep vacuum will remove moisture by breaking it up into hydrogen and oxygen(kinda=sorta)and remove those gasses. air and moisture wreck havoc on the refrigerant/oils. The core removal tool(preferably two- one 5/16" and one 1/4")) is an absolute necessary step($35-$50). Look at acservicetechchannel videos for more comprehensive details on these minisplits and regular HVAC. His books are great, too! He recently release an Minisplit book
I did a Pioneer and a C&H recently for the first time, but didn't use the core removal tools. Is the benefit of removing the valve cores just a faster evacuation or are there other benefits to using the (fairly expensive if you buy multiple) Appion tools? I did have a total overkill (and massively heavy) 12cfm vacuum pump so it went quick regardless.
The valve does significantly restrict flow. If time matters, you'll want to remove it. i.e. DIYer's shouldn't care. (Are you paying yourself by the hour?) For professionals, those things are worth their weight in gold.
@@jfbeam Not speaking from experience but there isn't much "flow" during the vacuum process. People say it takes way longer to draw a vacuum but in theory, the largest flow across that core is at the very beginning. Once you get down to a partial vacuum there isn't much flow.
Hi Dave really appreciate your videos. Would you consider making a how to guide on replacing a rusted air handler secondary drain pan? Thanks again for your channel.
you made this install look so easy. my central went out and i really hated it anyways so im thinking of going to a couple of these for the two story house. i can do the install but can you give me an idea, ballpark of what i would pay to have someone do the drawdown and pressurize the system (all the epa stuff) i have a system coming and want to make sure they get paid for their work?
Do you think this would work in a mobile home. We use window units but they always end up dripping water in the window sill rotting it out . Then i have to rebuild the window sill wall and sometimes the floor.
Sure would. I've got a mini-split installed in a 40' Retired Air Force Ambulance Bus... currently 91 degrees outside and 73 degrees inside. edit: practically silent operation is a bonus
Damn, if I could learn how to do this... Which I likely will... as i've worked with and seen hvac repairs, recharge, etc so i'm not entirely in the dark, i think i could maybe help some folks out around here. It's hot done here in the south, and i'm around poor folks. I bet they'd love an efficient, small to large room a/c and heat alternative to their window units. Either way, i want one for my current home, and I know I can do it. I loved the way you did this. I saw it down slightly different in another video and I'm sure that his system did wonderful, but it felt like you took extra precautions. I like that. Thanks for making this video.
Pretrip from a non pro: for a cleaner install, I mount the disconnect to the bracket. I drill holes and use bolts and nuts to secure it. It’s possible to pull the power wire through the same hole too. Less clutter on the wall.
Would you have sent the line stubs from the air handler directly out to the exterior had you not run the line set through the wall in this install? Is it better to have those connections to the air handler on the inside or outside?
Nice clean job! Well done now you just have to avoid all the super duper keyboard techs that have never made a mistake in their life lol! Love your channel man keep up the great work!!!
Good vid I think it is better to get a pre-charged unit as a DIYer, and who has a flaring tool! Dont even think I can rent that at the local HomeDepot. Cheers
If you're still looking, search for a Cord Grip. They have a size range, so measure the diameter of the cord you want to pass through it, as well as the diameter of the hole it's going to mount into.
Is it important to remove the Shrader valve? I have installed about 10 of these and never have, but I remove all of the air with a vacuum pump and test it with nitrogen. I did have one leak after 1 year, but the others are good.
is there such a thing as a minisplit where the line set can be run UP from the inside unit? I have a room that needs a small unit to help the central AC keep up, but it has a brick wall on the other side that i really don't want to drill through/break up.
@@shaystern2453 August not S0O hot!!!!!!!!!!!! It puking July that was RECORD HEAT!!!!! LIKE 17 days above 110° and put Colorado River Valley at over 117° for the same duration. This is going to be the new normal. August brings the Monsoon season so temps back off and we then get dangerous flash flood conditions. Not to mention the real danger of lightning that can take lives and spark wildfires. You seem to be poking fun at the weather in the southwest but it's a real threat to people that live there. It's something that will spread to other parts of the U.S. and the world. So wherever you are at "It's Coming For You Too".
Is it necessary to vacuum down the Della system once its installed? I watched your Mr Cool mini split install and it did seem like you pulled the vacuum on that system.
Yes, you have to pump down a Della and most mini split systems. The Mr. cool has a patented no vacuum line set that has refrigerant charged in it and the fittings are designed so that as soon as you connect it, no air is allowed to get in the lines.
Thank you. I've been thinking about installing one of this mini splits however I don't want to purchase a vacuum pump and all the accessories I watched you use. I will try Mr Cool mini splits since I won't need a vacuum. Thanks for your help and awesome videos. I watched 10 of them last night.@@diyhvacguy
Nice install, I’d give it an A. The electrical connections were bad, needs connectors on the ends. Also the drain line needs extended to the ground with some schedule 40 pvc. Keeps the water off the siding
You could've cut those lines almost in half and then run them before you cut & flared them... since you were gonna custom cut the line anyway. A life lesson I guess. Usually you connect the lines and then feed the lines thru the wall penetration to hang the Duct. This installation seems to have taken several days with all the associated work to replace siding, drywall, paint and relocate the electrical. Just painful to think of the time required to complete from start date to finish. Adding crimp on connectors at the final white black and red power connections would be a nice touch to make it totally professional. Nice job & looks great.
I am just curious, as a "DIY" kit, pre-charged and everything. I see you put a vacuum on the line before opening the refrigerant lines. As a DIY'er I do not have a vacuum for A/C lines. Is this a must before opening the lines are was that just a extra precaution you took because you are able?
I installed this unit back in August 2022 and it's still going strong in the Texas heat! Nice video sir.
What size and where in texas?
I can tell you take pride in your work. Looks great
I bought and installed one of these about a month ago, and immediately bought and installed a second one. You didn't mention it, but the wifi programming options and controls are outstanding. Way more features and capabilities than I could have even imagined.
You will be sorry later. How can you recommend something you have owned for a month or two. The ones you installed might last five years, at best.
How could I possible be sorry? For what these cost and difficulty of installation, not to mention the great performance, 2 years would still be a win. 5 years would be a grand slam. Otherwise I don't see massive amounts of failures of these units, other than less than stellar installations.@@thomaswayneward
Mines been running since 2013, I've literally cleaned the outdoor unit once. Let me guess, you're in the trade and worried about everyone finding out that standard AC is shithouse, lmao@@thomaswayneward
@@spazzman90I have installed at least 15 of the even cheaper ones from eBay over the past couple of years and all are still working great. I have 3 of them installed in my own house and the features are getting better every time I order a couple of them. And yes five years is definitely a win. Eat a d&$k previous poster 😂
@@spazzman90he’s sorry because ppl have the information they need to install these mini splits themselves or have them installed. We had a guy come out 2 years ago bc it kept tripping the breaker. He tried to quote us $20k for a new ac unit only, for a 3 bedroom one level condo. I told him to get out…Nothing was actually wrong, it just needed some service that my husband did himself. Here we are, another hot summer almost over and she’s still going strong.
If we do decide to replace it before we move, it’ll be a mini split. Installed by a professional bc the hoa is VERY anti DIY, of course. They’re so ridiculous and nosy they want to know if you paint your own interior walls. Hence the reason we can’t wait to sell it.
I can tell you take pride in your work. Looks great. I can tell you take pride in your work. Looks great.
That della unit is the same as the pioneer. But for cheaper. I love mine. It cranks cold air 247
Yesir, they’re both made by the same mother company. Midea
@@diyhvacguy Interesting. I expected to see some familiar Midea stuff but it all looks basically like they took the cost out of EVERYTHING. If the internals are basically the same then that's a win at the bottom of the market.
why such large pricing differences? Simply because Pioneer has their name out and is known for efficiency? I'm completely off grid in Cabo with four 48v EVE280 battery banks. I did an unheard of thing with Mexican construction, I insulated the walls and roof as good as possible (6-18" EPS). Windows suck because I went with 12mm safety glass due to hurricanes. All I can think of is swapping out higher SEER mini-splits. Next house, I will haul proper windows down from California since my buddy works for Sierra Pacific.
@@stiffmeister0hYeah Mr Cool is pretty expensive these days. Their kit is nice for DIY and they do have the warranty. Still it sucks to pay like twice the cost for probably pretty much the same system. Although for my first system (18k gen 3 single zone) I guess the extra cost paid for itself when I needed a new condenser. And I got a gen 4 upgrade out of it, too.
I put a Pioneer in my garage. My install was very much like this except I ran the lineset down the inside of the garage. The wall is concrete block. It's been providing silent heating and cooling for a number of years now. I love it.
I installed a 9,000 btu Cooper & Hunter in my office two summers ago. I now have a different Della 12,000 btu unit than this to install in my bedroom. The listing in the description is for a 230v, the 115v unit I ordered is $100 more. And the C&H unit is now around $850. Not too hard for someone handy to install and the cooling in the summer is great, and heating in the winter is great. Hoping to get all the rooms in my house with mini split systems and my solar panels installed (there on a pallet in my shop right now, haha), then my propane bill will be cut a lot in the winter.
Overall I like your installation. 3 comment:
1. I would not run the lineset inside the drywall. If there is water leaking for whatever reason, it won't leak inside the wall and goes unnoticed until it is too late. I would put the lineset to the outside and cover it with lineset cover.
2. I would check the leak at the connection points after releasing the refrigerant before I tape it up. The pressure in the lineset will be much higher when running in heat mode and will show any subtle leak. Holding the vacuum does not guarantee no slow leak.
3. Minimum lineset length is about 10 ft from the MFR. Does it really make a difference if shorter? I am not sure. Maybe just less efficient.
I'm just a DIYer, but your points make sense--especially #1. I thought how easy it was to run those lines up inside the wall cavity when there's no insulation 😂 but when you have it, running lines outside avoids a lot of issues!
The reason for minimum length lineset is it acts as an accumulator, which acts tike a shock absorber and help in gas / liquid phase separation, having this properly done helps with the longevity of the unit and minimum warranty issues with many units?
@@sus8e462 Wow, I didn't even think about the fact that there's no insulation in that exterior wall. That's crazy. It would never fly where I live. I can't think of many places that no insulation would be ok. Maybe some amazing tropical paradise?
@@incognitotorpedo42Maybe it evaporated--just like with every apartment that's that's been foisted upon Americans!
Sorry to say it: Nominal!
1/4 " or 6mm tube is appx .35 of an oz per foot liquid, 3/8" pr 9 , 10 mm tubes are appx .6 oz/ ft liq charge..best to re calculate your missing length, the i d tag should display charge on it, subtract your missing length amount from tag info, and adjust the total charge to prevent inverter compressor damage in high heat, cool demands or high compressor speeds. These units utilize multiple ptc sensors on the tubing, the coils and indoor, outdoor ambients. Electronic calculations adjust refrigerant flow and speeds of fans and compressor speeds.. according to these measurements..shortening the lineset changes three, sub cooling/glide/superheat all measured in metric. It may run irratically, inefficiently, shorter lifespan with warranty issues. Good job though .
Hvacguy6 in Michigan..
Ps..stay on top of filter screens..3 to 6 month intervals. I guided installing a few of these on rv busses for Nascar enthusiasts outside my hvacr job..
love my Della, installed in my Garage, in LV, so nice, was unbearably hot before, perfect now
Easy install versus tosot?
Couple notes: check the minimum inset length before cutting line set. Mont mini splits have a minimum line let length of 10 feet. Golding any shorter will shorten the life of the compressor. My Della had a 10 foot minimum. Also check the manual for minimum clearance from the back of the compressor to the wall. Most are 12 inches. My Della was 12 inches. It looks like your install was less than 12 inches from the wall and your line set was less than 10 feet.
Agreed. This young man most definately did not read a single page of the manual lol. The HOA shouldnt be hiring their cousins step son. He seems nice enough but that doesnt help the ac unit. 😢
I just installed a 4 zone 36k BTU Della 220V on my cabin. The install was super easy. I ran one line set inside an interior drywalled wall and that was a tad difficult by myself but it worked out... The only thing I overlooked was to install the drain line under the refrigerant lines... I was worried that I might have water backup and overflow the interior pan but it was fine and drains without leaking. I'm super impressed with the Della unit!
How big is your cabin? Is it still holding up
Great video, thanks for the upload👍
March 2021, I pulled the trigger on an Aircon International Titanium Series 12000 BTU Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner from Wayfair for $683.24 plus tax, & free shipping. Installed myself, had a HVAC buddy pull vacuum and release the refrigerant. I checked today, the same system is $875.10.
Installations are simple if you're handy and can follow directions... I wouldn't hesitate to do it again.
I live in Brazil, but WOW, I can find 12,000 BTU in Paraguay at a cost of $370.00 made by Gree or for $320 Eco-gree, $310 Megastar, $330 Midea-carrier and $310 COBY. All of these are not inverter but I prefer the ON/OFF model because they are easier to repair. Inverter board repair costs 30 to 50% of the value of a new air conditioner or a new inverter board that would cost something around 80% of a complete new one.
I installed a 220V Della 12,000 BTU unit about two months ago. I agree, it was easy, it only took me about 8hrs to install. It took the place of a wall mounted window unit similar to what you did. I also used the existing 220V that powered the existing unit.
Awesome
sounds about right
i too am in the process of installing the 12000 btu 220 v unit just curious what you used for an outside disconnect as the smallest unit i have found is a 30 amp and this particular unit draws much less than that i also found the instruction manual from della to be terrible this video answered so many questions thanks so much
@@markkidd1282 It doesn't matter how much current the disconnect can handle as long as it is more than the AC can draw. I used a 60 amp unit.
you call 8 hours "easy"????? LOL, smh
I just installed 2 Della 36k btu mini splits in my new shop and they work awesome!
Followed your instructions exactly and everything worked great. Your procedures and descriptions are amazing!! Thanks!!!
You bought a vacuum pump? Which one?
I assumed that these were easy to install. Quite a bit of work and some special tools required. U do great work!!
Not a true DIY that's for sure. So expensive tools required.
"easy" is relative. this looks extremely easy to me. Ive never done it. but ive done plenty of drywall, siding repair, mounted tons of brackets, (tv mounts, speakers, lights, etc) and fished wires and cables through walls. piece of cake.
Just about everything requires some special tools. Just buy the tools. Professionals usually buy good tools but there's plenty of budget options from Amazon and Harbor Freight that are plenty good enough to get a job done.
What I heard the best option for coiling up extra line set is to do it horizontally. Since their should be a J bend, you could just make the outdoor J bend near the condenser connection and coil up any additional underneath the condenser, especially since you have it on the mounting bracket. It would be nice and out of the way.
Also, I really like those in ceiling cassettes. I might do something like that for my garage to keep it below 80F in the summer and over 40F in the winter. I have two electric cars and it would be nice to reduce the extremes that they deal with more often.
and look weird too. Clean install to avoid call backs.
@@uhjyuff2095 Non-sense... you wouldn't even see it unless you're trying to bend underneat the unit.
Jbend? Where is the requirement for that?
Minimum of 10’ of line set should be used
I got the 220 volt version and it's been awesome so far.
always wanted to see you do a 110 mini spilit.! just perfect.! thank you!
@@Kevin-mp5of saw it.. I still call it 110.
@@Kevin-mp5of if you say so! I call it whatever I feel like.
I installed a 21k btu in my house, its been up about 3 years now and still working beautifully.
Very nice install most installers would never go to this much trouble to do an install, I love these mini-splits. I put a Mr Cool 18K in 7 months ago and I wish the conduit cover was made like this one, so much easier to work with. The electrical cover was the only thing I thought was wonky at the time I installed it.
Man! Youse do great van builds. Learn so much from them. Thanks for sharing them with us.
I just installed the same system. All these videos show taping up all of the copper lines during the install. I didn't wrap anything until I pressure tested the lines then spray all the brass connections with soapy water from a spray bottle to check for leaks. If you wrap everything you can't check for leaks and all of your freon will leak out costing you money to hire someone plus replacing all the freon
This video is inspiring me to install this in the bedroom. Thanks for the honest install. Very thorough.
Great job, and looks like a nice unit. One big mistake (and major NEC Code Violation) was that metal box for the 120v buried in the wall. Huge no-no. You should have relocated the disconnect so you could simply have run the existing power cable directly into it, or installed a blank cover on the existing former outlet box inside. Buried boxes have caused fires in the past, if a splice inside fails.
I could always mount that so that it’s accessible via the cover.
@@diyhvacguy did you end up pulling it out flush with the wall or...left it...
Wow, I really like those anchors, and that stud finder. Thanks for the review/video I think I'm going to pull the trigger on this unit.
I appreciate all your videos. Makes me feel like I can attempt some of these easier hvac projects. I can get 110v 1 ton heat/cool units in Mexico for 260, 2 ton for 460. My central is over 20 years old and super inefficient. I am contemplating putting split units in every room and having the old central as backup only.
Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) ruclips.net/user/postUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.
Just finance a good system they have 0% for 5 years
At 1:35 you have an electrical box that you removed and it looks like it will be buried in the wall. This is a code violation unless the box is accessible.
true, also what if that connection opens up there?
Yes and no. The wiring goes into the box, and then into the cabling. I don’t think it’s a splice…or is it direct to the disconnect?
I'd like a 2nd opinion on this as well, as I don't think it's considered a junction box, but a splice.
@@Kevin-mp5of we need to find out if he the cable went all the way to the disconnect, or if it’s spliced in the disconnect. I love his hvac skills, but wish he could do better on the electric side.
Not only that he does not have the proper clearance for the disconnect on the exterior.
was there no insulation to begin with in that outside wall? Was that in a climate that would require it? Just curious. I didn't see any vapor barrier or insulation.
Most likely with the home being from the late 60s early 70s exterior walls may have been tongue and groove and at that time felt insulation wasn’t needed. I had several homes I’ve owned in the northeast that were all tongue and groove exterior walls and no insulation. All those houses were built pre 1960 that I’ve experienced.
My brother and I installed a mr cool one at his cabin in about 3 hours and it was really easy the hardest part was trying to get everything lined up with the old hole that was there from the old unit after that we had it running within the 3 hours. Both of us had never done this before either.
I doubt the install time
Mr Cool is as easy as it gets. You get to skip a lot of steps, especially if you are swapping out an old unit.@@shaystern2453
@@shaystern2453 I don't not with two people doing it.
@@shaystern2453who cares😅
Outstanding installation. This is some of the most impressive work I've ever seen.
Installed this same unit about a month ago. I already had an identical (12k) unit on the other side of my house and this one took me over the standard ratio of 20 btu's/sqft. It actually enabled both units to run at lower power levels and achieve super stable indoor temps. They work well heating over the winter and dropped my electric bill by over 100$/month over the summer. They seem slightly less efficient in the colder months, but I could insulate a little better. Paid for themselves in less than 6 months. It motivated me to follow through with the solar panel install.
You put copper behind a wall and it will rot your wall out with moisture dripping inside the wall. That copper the electrical and the drain go straight outside from the evaporator so there’s only 4 inches of copper in between the walls. The rest of the copper stays outside you should make straight runs and cut its links to fit correctly. Which means you’ll need to pull a vacuum after you weld your copper up.
Thanks for making that clear.
100 % correct
I use the liquid tite pipe on the communication lines also.. Mine is 220 though..Helps with uv and also critters and accidents..Cheap insurance.
Love the install, only problem is you bud that box behind the wall. I don’t think that allowed by code. Needs to be accessible?
There was an outlet there for the lamp and the old air conditioner. Why not just run the power into that box and leave the outlet there for the lamp? Now you have to remove the lamp.
.
Nice job with your explanation. I have one of these units in my new sunroom and I absolutely love it!
I agree with some other comments about running a drain down to the ground, but gotta make it look good. Maybe small pvc over to the inside corner of the wall and then straight down the corner, painted to match the siding obviously, which would make it basically invisible.
Do you know that the bottom cover is removable .it is way easier to remove and connect line sets
I didn’t pull my schrader valve out when i pulled vacuum. I released the refrigerant and it works though.
I never pull the shraders. It takes a little longer but there is always other work to finish while you wait.
My semi-detached wife had some Mitsubishi Mini split units installed on her place last year (no previous A/C and hydronic radian heat) in Chicago. The work great (as they should for the $$). I've been looking to install one or two on my house. I want to get a unit that has the floor mount exchanger rather than the wall mount as it's a vintage house.
One note on these all in one/retail units is that many of the copper lines are junk. Better to buy a good flaring tool and quality tubing.
Also, the DIY pressure/leak testing on some of these is quite minimal and really should be done with nitrogen and proper gauges.
Thank you for the instructional video. What if you need to locate the outside compressor fan unit horizontally to the hole through the wall? What considerations and limits are there in locating the compressor? I assume you need to maintain a slope in the piping to ensure gravity feed. How high off the ground is best, I have a brick wall that opens to the courtyard garden where I would like to locate the Condensing Unit. How far from the Internal unit can you locate the compressor. Condensing unit? Pros and cons of location. The other side of the brick wall where I want to install the unit is the garbage storage location.
Any uninsulated and or exposed copper inside the wall will damage your wall. The copper Hass to go straight out the hole from the inside evaporator, leaving only four or 5 inches in between your interior and exterior walls the copper line set Hass to be totally wrapped and insulated when it goes through the wall And your drain line Hass to go through the same hole so if you put your drain line on top of your copper, on its way, going out, your evaporator pan will overflow on your floor. You have to have a constant downward slope on your drain. If you don’t use an external powered drain pump.
Could have definitely gone out the right hand side and run the lineset in slimduct so it can be accessed at a later date if needed. Running linesets in a closed in wall is a no no in our company.
You should consider doing a video on how to upgrade to a larger mini-split system (how do you get the refridgerant back to the compressor before you disconnect the line). It seems no one has done that on RUclips. Everyone does a new install. Thank you for all the videos.
Mine is a Cooper &Hunter 6000 BTU for only $420. It was an open box deal but all of the pieces were included
This is one of the most thorough mini split install videos I've seen on RUclips. My question is what do you do if the system leaks at say the flare fitting and you need to repair and then add refrigerant? I cannot find R32 for sale anywhere in the US.
I have that same question. If you can’t get R32 from your supplier, then maybe use R410A (which is half R32).
@@coolramone I wish I knew; I can't get an answer on this anywhere.
It´s interesting that they cheaped out on the side cover and the brass inlet and outlet are open to the elements just like that. I´d prbably put some insulation on them so that they don´t sweat.
I have done a shit ton of installs just using easy anchors! Zip them in,screw in the bracket,easy peasy!
Yes they’re not heavy at all. I prefer these ones though. I did a test with a bunch of drywall anchors and these held a lot more weight. Equally as easy to install. Thanks for the input
I installed 2 Tosot units,I used the cooling mode yesterday and the air coming out of the louver was a nice cold 50 degrees F
Like those drywall anchors!
Knock on the door and offer to fix that kink. Nice way to get new customer and get suggested to be the installer of choice for that community.
I would just replace the whole line
Nice install. Those head units don't weigh hardly anything so even just basic plastic anchors would hold it just fine. I use plastic screw in anchors made for sheetrock. They hold 75+ pounds per anchor. I have used them for years with no issues.
I'd be more worried about the vibrations from the blower and the coils on such a thin anchor over time. I would've probably used a mounting board, Maybe as thin as a 1" oak board. I'd be interested to know if they hold up past a couple of years.
@@Drebin2293I too noticed that! Yes! (Un-)Screw the wall! Why trust it?!
A few bucks--hardly any additional time? If you need to replace--already done! And, done-right!
Nice job. Would like to see more focus on the connection with Nylog and then a leak test. #1 for issues here is leaking after install.
I wish my condo assoc would allow us to get these. I'd love to get rid of the stupid thru-the-wall AC units and block out the road noise from outside.
They want you to buy ihose ancient inefficient monsters because they get a kickback from the installer
My wife and I replaced our furnace adding center air at the same time in our American Fork home. Best investment we’ve made in our late 1940s home. A previous homeowner sliced off a corner of the garage and turned into insulated space. It has a 240v baseboard heater as there’s no way to connect a duct from the central system. I’ve been considering a DIY mini-split ac installation. Is the fancy core removal tool and valve kit essential? A previous commenter suggested renting an automobile vacuum extraction setup. Is that adequate? Is there a way Joe blow handyman homeowner could evacuate the lines w/o the vacuum pump?
you need a 2 stage pump and guages(preferably a micron guage) to get a deep vacuum in the lines. The deep vacuum will remove moisture by breaking it up into hydrogen and oxygen(kinda=sorta)and remove those gasses. air and moisture wreck havoc on the refrigerant/oils. The core removal tool(preferably two- one 5/16" and one 1/4")) is an absolute necessary step($35-$50). Look at acservicetechchannel videos for more comprehensive details on these minisplits and regular HVAC. His books are great, too! He recently release an Minisplit book
vevor or amazon has a vacuum for 140 or so, there is also a line spray that can be used instead of vacuum
I did a Pioneer and a C&H recently for the first time, but didn't use the core removal tools. Is the benefit of removing the valve cores just a faster evacuation or are there other benefits to using the (fairly expensive if you buy multiple) Appion tools? I did have a total overkill (and massively heavy) 12cfm vacuum pump so it went quick regardless.
I’d be curious too.
The valve does significantly restrict flow. If time matters, you'll want to remove it. i.e. DIYer's shouldn't care. (Are you paying yourself by the hour?) For professionals, those things are worth their weight in gold.
@@jfbeam Not speaking from experience but there isn't much "flow" during the vacuum process. People say it takes way longer to draw a vacuum but in theory, the largest flow across that core is at the very beginning. Once you get down to a partial vacuum there isn't much flow.
Nice install!!
Was there really no insulation in that wall!? 😳
Hi Dave really appreciate your videos. Would you consider making a how to guide on replacing a rusted air handler secondary drain pan? Thanks again for your channel.
you made this install look so easy. my central went out and i really hated it anyways so im thinking of going to a couple of these for the two story house. i can do the install but can you give me an idea, ballpark of what i would pay to have someone do the drawdown and pressurize the system (all the epa stuff) i have a system coming and want to make sure they get paid for their work?
Nice job. The owner should have gone with a 2 unit system and replace that upstairs through wall unit. Thanks for posting this!
The upstairs is a separate unit. It’s a little studio condo
Do you think this would work in a mobile home. We use window units but they always end up dripping water in the window sill rotting it out . Then i have to rebuild the window sill wall and sometimes the floor.
Sure would.
I've got a mini-split installed in a 40' Retired Air Force Ambulance Bus... currently 91 degrees outside and 73 degrees inside.
edit: practically silent operation is a bonus
Love the whole walkthrough of this video.
Super great install, Dave! No evidence of the old wall unit.
Karen and Pat with the HOA had to approve....
Damn, if I could learn how to do this... Which I likely will... as i've worked with and seen hvac repairs, recharge, etc so i'm not entirely in the dark, i think i could maybe help some folks out around here. It's hot done here in the south, and i'm around poor folks. I bet they'd love an efficient, small to large room a/c and heat alternative to their window units. Either way, i want one for my current home, and I know I can do it. I loved the way you did this. I saw it down slightly different in another video and I'm sure that his system did wonderful, but it felt like you took extra precautions. I like that. Thanks for making this video.
Do you recommend using a surge supressor on the incoming power line?
Very thorough instructions, thank you. I can do this 💪
Thanks for the video,... What would the Labor charge be for an Installation without all the Plaster & Siding patch work ?
It all depends on the company. For us, probably $2000 labor
Pretrip from a non pro: for a cleaner install, I mount the disconnect to the bracket. I drill holes and use bolts and nuts to secure it. It’s possible to pull the power wire through the same hole too. Less clutter on the wall.
Thx so so much for your video! First time trying to do this :)
why would you go down inside wall with the plumbing?
Laziness
Would you have sent the line stubs from the air handler directly out to the exterior had you not run the line set through the wall in this install? Is it better to have those connections to the air handler on the inside or outside?
Nice clean job! Well done now you just have to avoid all the super duper keyboard techs that have never made a mistake in their life lol! Love your channel man keep up the great work!!!
salty handyman LOL
you mean licensed handy man lol@@chimpo131
Can you comment on the labor costs for installing this for the grand total? Great video
Install has to be at least the cost of the unit.
Thank you very much much, The installation was easy , thank to your detailed video. 🤙🏽🤙🏽
I did not see (I couldn't find if they are there) the anchors you demonstrated in the drywall.
what he used for the frame
You definitely should get the mighty bracket
Good vid
I think it is better to get a pre-charged unit as a DIYer, and who has a flaring tool! Dont even think I can rent that at the local HomeDepot.
Cheers
Nice Video, thank you! Which unit you liked better? This Della or Cooper & Hunter from one of your previous videos?
Great video!! What are your recommendations for a heat and AC unit? I need one for an Overland Camper. I appreciate your expertise.
Would you happen to know the description and size of the seal tight connector for the communication wire on the condenser that you provided?
If you're still looking, search for a Cord Grip. They have a size range, so measure the diameter of the cord you want to pass through it, as well as the diameter of the hole it's going to mount into.
I use 1/4” toggles. Vet strong
yup, 280 pounds sheer weight in 1/2" drywall!
Is it important to remove the Shrader valve? I have installed about 10 of these and never have, but I remove all of the air with a vacuum pump and test it with nitrogen. I did have one leak after 1 year, but the others are good.
You can definitely do it without, it just takes a bit more time is all 👍🏼
is there such a thing as a minisplit where the line set can be run UP from the inside unit? I have a room that needs a small unit to help the central AC keep up, but it has a brick wall on the other side that i really don't want to drill through/break up.
No insulation in that wall?
Man I really need one or two of these in southern Nevada. It's like 120° for all of July.
nevada, hot in August? who knew?
@@shaystern2453 August not S0O hot!!!!!!!!!!!! It puking July that was RECORD HEAT!!!!! LIKE 17 days above 110° and put Colorado River Valley at over 117° for the same duration. This is going to be the new normal. August brings the Monsoon season so temps back off and we then get dangerous flash flood conditions. Not to mention the real danger of lightning that can take lives and spark wildfires. You seem to be poking fun at the weather in the southwest but it's a real threat to people that live there. It's something that will spread to other parts of the U.S. and the world. So wherever you are at "It's Coming For You Too".
I wonder If the condenser unit can be installed directly in back of the evaporator unit? I want the condenser high up.
Very nicely produced video quality filming and informative 👌 👍
Della has the QC series that is using R32. Can I use the same vacuum as for the R-410a.
Is it necessary to vacuum down the Della system once its installed? I watched your Mr Cool mini split install and it did seem like you pulled the vacuum on that system.
Yes, you have to pump down a Della and most mini split systems. The Mr. cool has a patented no vacuum line set that has refrigerant charged in it and the fittings are designed so that as soon as you connect it, no air is allowed to get in the lines.
Thank you. I've been thinking about installing one of this mini splits however I don't want to purchase a vacuum pump and all the accessories I watched you use. I will try Mr Cool mini splits since I won't need a vacuum. Thanks for your help and awesome videos. I watched 10 of them last night.@@diyhvacguy
Beautiful install.
Im really interested in one of these running off a solar backup battery system versus the brands that run off solar directly.
Nice install, I’d give it an A. The electrical connections were bad, needs connectors on the ends. Also the drain line needs extended to the ground with some schedule 40 pvc. Keeps the water off the siding
Yea I need to keep some connectors on my truck and a crimper. Thanks for the input.
that's harsh
Great job in all phases!
How far apart was the bracket. To hang head unit inside i am about put mine in and i want make sure to make a brace while open
1. 24:10 Daikin standard minimal pipe is 3 meters
You could've cut those lines almost in half and then run them before you cut & flared them... since you were gonna custom cut the line anyway. A life lesson I guess. Usually you connect the lines and then feed the lines thru the wall penetration to hang the Duct. This installation seems to have taken several days with all the associated work to replace siding, drywall, paint and relocate the electrical. Just painful to think of the time required to complete from start date to finish. Adding crimp on connectors at the final white black and red power connections would be a nice touch to make it totally professional. Nice job & looks great.
So 5 months later how do you like your Della?
This was done for a customer, and incorrectly.
Looks great! I've heard the 220v is much more efficient. Higher initial cost, less power consumption?
Yes but would have required additional wiring.
I am just curious, as a "DIY" kit, pre-charged and everything. I see you put a vacuum on the line before opening the refrigerant lines. As a DIY'er I do not have a vacuum for A/C lines. Is this a must before opening the lines are was that just a extra precaution you took because you are able?
I have a unit on my 2 car garage 18btu and it work great in Az summers