How to Plasterboard a Steel Beam | The Easiest Method Out There!
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- Опубликовано: 9 июн 2023
- Today i will be showing you how to plasterboard an RSJ quickly and easily. Fixing plasterboard to an RSJ is very easy if you follow this simple trick and it helps keep the steel beam narrow. I will be showing you the tips and tricks that make the job easy! If you like the content leave a like and please subscribe for more content like this as I've got a lot more to come and there will be something that will help you out.
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Couldn't get along with an impact driver, ended up paying a few quid for a drywall screw drill bit and it made screwing a mindless task. I like videos like this, common problems that people will come up a cropper at some point. Great vid your videos have really helped me over the years, keep them coming
Thanks for the video , hope you are settling in your new home, there's always a lot to do , It never stops, so hope theres a lot more videos to come 🙂
That's the plan! Thanks
As a drywall fixer you explained everything perfect for anybody attempting this themselves. On site we wouldn't get away with using the adhesive on the bottom face, we would have to use some mf6 or angle on the adjoining slabs and box around the beam. Great video as always.
MF6A and MF17*
Great work. Simple and easy explanation
Glad you liked it
Thanks for this well timed video, I’ve got this to do in the next month or so. 👍🏻
Glad it was helpful!
Loving watching this channel you make diy fun
Thank you 🤗
It is surprisingly easy to drill thru an rsj.
4mm pilot then a 6mm ,, trick is a spray of cutting fluid.
When you have the knack it is a lot less annoying and much quicker and accurate than banging those noggings in.
Exactly what I was looking for thanks for posting 👍
No problem 👍
Great to see the transformation, looking forward to the whole house! well done, subbed to your Insta 💯
Thanks for the sub and support 😊
good video ! i like to see realworld repairs like you have been doing !
Thanks 👍
Great video mate and very easy to follow and understand. The only thing I’d add is to be careful with impact drivers and drywall screws - I found it very easy to go straight through the plasterboard. Instead I used my combi drill on gear 6 or 7. This seemed to be the right gear that the clutch would release just as the screw got about 1mm depressing the paper on the plasterboard. One gear lower and the screw head would sit too proud, one gear higher and the screw chewed into too much plasterboard.
Good point 👍
I learned this the hard way 🤣and now have some swiss cheese like plasterboard under my bay window. The adhesive being used is good here though. I didn't get on with the foam insta stik - it goes off too quickly in this heat!
A great video as always .. it’s good to see how to go about putting things together. One thing I’m looking to do is fix in bi-fold doors under an RSJ opening.. .. What is the best way to lower/ secure the bi-fold door frame to the RSJ, which is less than the RSJ hight?
Great video !!!! thanks
awesome video, exactly what i needed
Glad it helped!
Another great useful video Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Great video as always, 🙏👍
Cheers mate 🙌
Li'l tip. When you need to cut multiple rips of plaster board to exacting measurements. eg; beam encasements. All measurements need to come from a good edge, preferably factory edge. Take measurements both sides (191) & underside of the beam. (100) let's say you need 3 rips of 191mm. Mark the face of board 191mm, 382mm, 573mm then 673mm & 773mm for 2 100mm rips. Then cut board. Every cut will be mm perfect.
Great tip! Thanks
Given you are going to fit corner beading and then skim it, why does any of that actually matter?
Great vid ❤
Excellent video 👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you 👍
Very good my friend, love your videos
Glad you like them!
Love your work!
If you are taking requests; I would love to see how you did the demo and installed the beam you just covered up.
Great suggestion!
I don't think i'll have need for this particular tip but I found myself watching it anyway, good work!
I'm quite new to DIY myself and this old house of mine is needing a whole lot of work. I'm not sure if it's something you have the need to do, nor do I know if it's within your remit but I have some wardrobes which just fit in some alcoves and want the to look a bit more built in, any further tips on that would be superb!
Excellent 👌👍🏼
Thanks a lot 😊
Go to love an RSJ ❤
why oh why oh why have I never thought about when cutting with a blade, that the blade should be the side your length of wood needs to be at 🤣 makes so much more sense now why when I was panelling one or two boards were just marginally off.
Little hints like this is why I love your videos
You don’t know what you don’t know my friends. We all have so many things still to learn, myself included😊
Looking tidy!
Flanges 😁 thanks for the idea
Good quality work
😊 thanks
Nice simple instructions I would of used a timber on the bottom of the steel either by fixing a batton to the plasterboard,or a nail gun (hilti) but this would of course lower the head height, very good video as usual.
👍
Ever thought of girdagrips, really easy to use
Thanks for the video! very helpful. What I have been looking for, and possibly this is something you can help show us, on the outside of a building that has external steel siding skin attached to an inside red iron steel beam, I want to attach an external joist hanger through the skin into the Iron to support a "lean to" or sloped external wood beam every 16 or 24" apart along the outside wall that will support a covered porch. Ideally if you could get on the inside of the skin you could install wood pieces like you did here to attach to, but when you do not have access and the skin is already attached using bolts and nuts into the inside Iron beam, and you dont want to have to pre drill through skinn and into the beam for each and every connector from your joist hanger, what is the best way to attach those joist hangers all the way in through the skin and into the proper internal support?
And to comply with building regs for steel to be covered with at least 30 mins fire protection, don't forget to use fireline plasterboard, or two layers of standard plasterboard with brickwork/overlapping joints.
Yes.
That always amazes me. Fire protection around an RSJ, but single plasterboard around ceiling joists.
I wonder if this method is approved for fire rating. The plaster board is not mechanically secured to anything.
Steel beams can contort in a fire and cause more rapid failure in the structure. @@Jim-fw4rx
Would the fire line, or double standard plasterboard be the same spec for a wooden ridge beam in a roof?
Hi mate. Excellent video as always. Any chance of a video of boxing in piping? Cheers.
Great video and has helped but I have two steels to timber up and one is recessed shallower than the wall. Assuming it’s fine to have the batton coming out further so it’s flush with the wall? Pitched roof so space above needs to be dot and dab’ed so going to double up on the fire board there
Sure 👍
Another excellent video very informative ,I have this job do , it will come in handy . Now for a question , i am putting new skirting on do I plug and screw this or use a no nails adhesive, the painter wants me to use the adhesive of course as it makes life easier for him ,no filling and rubbing down , but which is best ? what will you use when you do your skirting ?
Sure, here’s my advice. If you are installing on dead flat walls in a new build for example then use adhesive + a second fix nail gun if you have one. If you installing in an old property with solid walls then I would plug and screw.
Thanks will use adhesive and borrow a nail gun .Thanks for your quick reply.
this is EXACTLY what I was looking for! thanks, mate! it's what I was going to do but wasn't quite sure how to go about it.
Glad I could help!
Flange.
What an excellent word.
Almost as good as moist.
😂
Anything that you 🎥🎥🎥 is a 👍🏿👍🏿👊🏾👊🏾 from me 💎💎 geezer
Thanks so much 🙌
Excellent video. What impact driver bit are you using?
Is that a real question?
What adhesive did you use?
Ventilation :) recently bought 30 year old house and doing a lot of refurbs house has no ventilation in any room except upstairs, core bit and vent covers and piping would be great :)
👍👍 thanks
@@TheDIYGuy1 keep up the great content, also in the same boat living in the house while doing it up with 2 kids under 4 and 1 that's 12 so it's very hard to plan to do big changes can't wait to watch the full series, also please do some give aways on RUclips, don't use FB or Insta etc way too much data harvesting going on
First time visitor to your channel. Do I detect a Norfolk accent?
Can the RSJ be boxed in first before the rest of the ceiling? Or does the order not matter?
Could you put the adhesive on back of the batton before you Hammer it in?
Rather than trying to squeeze in behind after?
And why not put baton underneath so it's same width? You said it would be wider? Sorry I can't picture how it would be wider...?
Hi guys what adhesive did you use for the bottom of the RSJ
My local council “Building Inspector” refused to allow me to use friction noggings but instead insisted on British Gypsum metal framework system however i did manage to get away with timber framing just not relying on friction fitting, his argument was that any expansion of the steel in a fire would cause the noggings to fail. So much for all the friction noggings which have been used for decades, just goes to show that so called Building Inspectors dont always know what they are talking about
Can I ask how you calculated what size RSJ to use. I have a project coming up that requires the removal of a wall. Many thanks.
This was calculated by my structural engineer
I have seen people put rockwool inside the beam before, is this necessary?
Can you do a video on plastering please? How to make and put on wall? Want to do a little project myself but not 100% how to do it all.
Let me see if I can arrange that
Should of let the plasterboard hang 25mm lower than what you did and screwed through the board into a length of tile batton held tight against the bottom of the rsj then fit the bottom piece in place and screw up into the tile batton no need for props until the adhesive has gone off plus a good fixing for the plasterer to fix his beads.
*should have
to get a nice straight finish you usually use angle beading .not sure how he would attach it to the metal beam underneath
Angle beading for finishing plaster? If that’s what you mean then you just use bonding or finish in dobs to attach the angle bead
Subscribed. However, I thought wood had to be shot through the web these days for Building Regs in UK. You happy thats not the case? Just asking.
How do you fit plasterbord to a box linte? To make it fireproof.
It would be great if you helped me to make a closet out of a little incave in my kit chen.
Maybe making a video on this soon
When is part 2 of the house renovation dropping? 😃
Very soon. Currently in editing 😊
My builders wrapped mine in normal plasterboard not fire proof one and buildings regs passed it. Is that okay?
If it’s been done with a single layer no, but if done with 2 boards the should suffice
I would happily pay to learn what you know. Think about an online training course
Thanks. It’s certainly something I would consider
So this uses 49% recycled plastic and therefore 50 or 51 % new plastic every block. The petrochemical industry will love this keeping us dependent on petrochemicals.
What adhesive is appropriate? Others describe a risk that the adhesive will melt, causing the gypsum board to fall off and ruin the fire rating. The adhesive also sounds too easy..
🎃 3:20 THE OLD CEILING IS ASBESTOS???????
Probably artex
I used to stick boards to steels but this is no longer acceptable to building control because they claim in a fire it falls off potential.y on a fireman’s head. Shame because it’s much quicker and easier to stick the drywall.
400 mm
couldn't you just paint it ceiling colour, boxing doesn't overly improve the look. So much easier!
Not possible due to it needing fire board for building control
No way
The main issue with this is that the steel must be there for a reason - its probably holding something up and therefore it is likely to be considered an element of structure, so that it has to be fire-proofed. Depending on the class of the building, I would suspect the rating to be 1/2hr or 1hr. Normal 1/2" plasterboard would not comply with the requirements of 1/2hr protection although 2 layers would. The other big issue here is that the plasterboard framework should be non-combustible so wood is the wrong material to use. Normally, double C metal clips are used on the flanges that allow the use of drywall screws for fixing into the light gauge metal. Vertical studs are then either further pieces of light gauge metal (typically suspended ceiling angle) fixed top and bottom or two pieces of plasterboard back to back wedged vertically in place.
Unfortunately, what is shown is typical of small building construction that is difficult to inspect for Building Control so is rarely condemned. Its an issue for our poorly educated trades and badly regulated construction industry
Unfortunately your wrong. Structural engineer drew the plans up for this and submitted to building control who have inspected it and passed it. 12.5mm fire line board taped and 3mm skim providing 30minute fire resistance. 2 layers are only required if your board isn’t fire line board.
@@TheDIYGuy1 I was not aware of the use of fire-line board and you did not mention any fire-proofing requirement. Unfortunately, videos like this are seen by many as 'how to' so that you could give the false impression by omission, meaning that others could blithely copy your detailing, without any reference to building control. Notwithstanding the casing in fire-line board there is still the requirement to frame the steel with light gauge metal and not timber - Check out BG's White Book (the plasterboard bible).
I have yet to see a structural engineer's spec go into the detailing of how the casing is to be constructed probably only (if at all) commenting that it should be 30mins fire resistance.
5:12 he mentioned the requirement at this time.
I’m not a builder but I read once that boxing in steel beams, the plaster board must be fire rated.
Correct. Fire line board is used in this video
Where your method would be no good for me, building regs where I live in Wales, won't allow any adhesive of any kind,fire excellent apparently??
Accelerant I meant 😂
They wouldn’t accept it in my neck of the woods, it has to be mechanical fixing
Agreed. Mechanical fixing required.
Hate seeing this. Nothing for me to fix my thin coat bead to now on the underside. Has to be stapled or stuck which I don’t like doing. My only gripe
Just use a bit of bonding or finish whilst mixing up, job done ✔️
Yet another RUclipsr offering giveaways but on another platform. Most subscribers don’t hate time to follow you around from platform to platform to have a chance of winning a prize, what about supporting your loyal RUclipsrs, if you want to do it via another platform I’d suggest not dangling the carrot on RUclips!
I’m doing something nice for people and due to fairness it cannot be hosted on RUclips. The platform simply doesn’t allow for it because there’s no way to track entries. Sorry that it doesn’t suit you but you can’t please everyone in this world.
Screws should be at least 6 inches apart your's don't look that just saying
That was painful to watch
Thank you for the video, I am here because I genuinely enjoy watching your videos. The electronic series has helped me a lot! I'm a builder and do not need the tool, But if I was to win. It'll be donated to the labourer on site. He is a hard worker
Sadly, I do not use social media instagram, fb etc, would you accept a one-off admission via YT?
Hi Jay, leave it with me and I’ll see what I can do for you. Thanks
@@TheDIYGuy1 Thank you! Keep up the great content. You have shown that you don't always need a tradesmen to do the work, especially in these hard times!
Why do the measurements when you have put it up,the steel will be the same length/size when its on the floor.