I want to say thank you for the testing mode on those machines. But I found my ways to put this on testing mode on the front loading GE washer, and works the same ways. And it has 26 tests. How genius!
You’re the man! Our pipes were for about 10 hours a couple days ago, and then for 48 hours the washing machine would not do anything except say “supply h20” even after unplugging. This worked immediately. Thank you!
Thank you for posting this, it feels like a secret handshake to understand how to locate the service manual and enter diagnostic mode. I found the service sheet under my washer and was able to use it to triangulate the issue at no expense. Much appreciated!
Glad this video was of some help to you. I feel basic service manual should be given to the end consumer with the regular manual. Or basic diagnostics information in the regular manual. But that's me
I found the service sheet for mine when peering up from the bottom to check out the locked up drain pump issue I was having. It was handy being able to use mode 12 of the service mode to toggle the power on and off for the drain pump so I can verify the control circuit was working and isolate the problem to the pump itself. I saw the 120 volts when I toggled it on and when it was connected to the pump I just heard it hum without any spinning action. Turns out on mine there was some gravelly substance that apparently got lodged between the vanes of the pump and the pump cavity causing it to be locked up. I just spun it around after taking it off and was able to free it up and now it works fine again. Apparently there isn't enough of a screen to prevent this from happening, and just by chance one of the particles was able to lodge itself just right to lock it up. 3 10 mm bolts to remove the pump was all it really needed. The pump resistance measured 13.5 just as the service sheet said it should.
I found the service sheet for mine when peering up from the bottom to check out the locked up drain pump issue I was having. It was handy being able to use mode 12 of the service mode to toggle the power on and off for the drain pump so I can verify the control circuit was working and isolate the problem to the pump itself. I saw the 120 volts when I toggled it on and when it was connected to the pump I just heard it hum without any spinning action. Turns out on mine there was some gravelly substance that apparently got lodged between the vanes of the pump and the pump cavity causing it to be locked up. I just spun it around after taking it off and was able to free it up and now it works fine again. Apparently there isn't enough of a screen to prevent this from happening, and just by chance one of the particles was able to lodge itself just right to lock it up. 3 10 mm bolts to remove the pump was all it really needed. The pump resistance measured 13.5 just as the service sheet said it should.
I have that exact same machine and find that the clothes don’t all get wet and when washing it looks like th clothes just shake around a bit when the agitator spins , is there a certain cycle that would better or is it just a bad design
hello.... so of course as soon as my warranty is up, my washer goes to having issues 🤦♀️ I am getting the "H2O Supply" code and it is going through each cycle until close to the end.... I do not have any kinked hoses and water supply is on. I have tried running in other cycles but it only wants to work in "casual" but now this setting is starting to cancel itself too 🤦♀️ suggestions?
We bought a washer very similar to this and I have to say I kind of hate it. Clothes keep coming out with white streaks that I initially thought were detergent residue (even though we are using HE detergent) but it almost looks like wet lint or fluff. I have no idea where it comes from but we can't get rid of it. Today was worse. We had some sheets that came out looking like they had mud or wet sand. Again, I have no idea where it comes from, but we are continually washing and re-washing stuff. It's only a few months old but I can't wait to get rid of it.
I had a power strike near my home that caused the breaker to switch, now the machine will not power on. Can you tell me how to check a fuse please please help.
hello, to let u know that my dad turned off the washer machine & the dry machine so i can’t even use it.. do you know to turn it back on or no?? /: ;-; ☠︎
So, how do you open one of these up? Is it just like the older metal top ones where you poke some spring clips in the front-top? It doesn't feel as easy as my old one did and I don't want to force it.
Greetings, I just came across your video. I'm researching information/videos pertaining to my GE Model GTW755CPM1DG which I haven't come across. The issues that I'm having is trying to bypass the water level sensor. The water levels are not efficient at all just is not enough water especially the amounts giving for bedding. Would you happen to know how to bypass this feature? The other issue I have is the frequent balance sensor especially during the spin cycle it occasionally run into problems trying to spin wet towels combined with other linen. Oh and there's the occasional error code Water Supply line/ H2O that appears and I am not able to wash until countless failed attempts. I end up having to reset multiple times and take the washer offline til the next day and try again. I'm so frustrated with this machine! Any suggestions you can offer here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I you ever find them,. let me know. I hate these new washers because of this....my old Maytag always filled and always cleaned. These new machines are all energy saving stupid...and I say stupid because you end up washing things twice since they never actually get cleaned! As for water? When it comes to the end of the fill cycle and is just about to do wash? I hit the deep fil AGAIN...and it tends to fill more.
I have the exact machine and it giving an H2O supply error message, but it seems to be filling fine on hot and cold side. I went through and ran both fills in diagnostic mode too. Seems to be filling fine. Any suggestions?
I have this exact machine. The setting buttons get stuck A LOT - very frustrating. I've unplugged, lifted & closed lid several times, turned the power on - then pressed a setting, pressed a setting - then turned power on - Once in a while they work and setting lights will move up and down as normal. I am DESPERATE, and don't want to call a tech. I just need to know what to do and I know I can do it myself! Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!
My loads are completing, but I get flashing codes when I start in the time remaining. Sometimes F1 and 11 and other codes return to countdown with normal time. Any ideas?
I had this machine for 6 months and I loved it until it washes clothes but when it goes to spin the light will flash and won’t spin. And water would fill up again . Do you have any reason why ? pretty disappointed. If you know let me know thanks.
Hmmm. I have this same washer. The fault seemed to indicate sensor. When I looked it up in the sheet, it implied the mode shifter. The washer fills but when it is time to agitate it lasts 1 minute then it stops. If left alone then the machine just shuts off. Put it on drain and spin and it goes all the way through. My feeling is, it is the bearing. This can not be found in any diagnositics manual. The bearing is noisy. What makes me say this, that is to blame the bearing? The agitator was loose and wobbly. When I tried to remove it, it fought me tooth and nail. So I cut it off, the top neck section. Then I could get to the bolt and unbolted it. The only part that was still left was the bottom piece that is between the main skirt and the top agitator. I somehow then cut it off too. It was the problem was it was not coming out in the first place. I installed the main skirt back and bolted it. And the top cap fit on it perfect incidently. I turned the machine on. Came to realize that the machine agitated almost all completley before it quit, lasting much longer. When I removed the top wobbling agitator, it cut the rough movement of the machine in half basically. This roughness is not the same as bad suspension that cause out of balance type of rocking. Any ideas if my suspension is correct. Bad bearing cause agitating trouble but not necessarily spin problem?
The bearings are most likely causing the noise while spinning, but the shifter is probably what is causing it to be unable to do agitation, from my knowledge and experience with my 680, the machine is perfectly fine just spinning without doing a shifter check, however if it has to agitate and cannot unlock the shifter it will not be able to do any wash whatsoever. After about 15 minutes of non-use, the machine will begin the cancellation process. My assumption is that your machine is erroring out because it cannot shift and is stuck with the water, after a certain period of time about 15 minutes or so the machine cancels out and begins draining out the water. I would start with replacing the shifter and going from there. Based on what you have told me the motors completely fine and all other important parts are working, it seems that it's just the shifter
How do you do a factory reset on the control module? Mine is currently stuck in limbo on an old wifi that is no longer in use. I cannot change it through the SmartHQ app because I deleted the appliance.
After I enter the diagnosis mode I was able to scroll from 0-19 but if I press start on any number nothing happens. Have you ever had something like that occurred. Please help.
From my experience putting both my washer and dryer into diagnostics mode, that is normal. The numbers each represent a test (such as running the recirculation pump or the spray valve.)
Will it diagnose spin cycle? My washer turns on and makes the noise as if it's trying to spin, but doesn't spin. And then it just ends the cycle without actually starting it.
I would say it starts with how much and what type of detergent you are using. In my experience powdered detergent are best put into the basket in the washer instead of the tray. And thicker detergents like persil won’t be fully dispensed.
Mine is forever sensing then filling up then saying Supply H20 and draining just replaced the safety lid switch for 34 dollars and it didn't fix it either
That seems to be the question of the day here. Good luck! I did get mine to work today by pressing start with the lid in the open position instead of closed.. tomorrow, who knows :(
I have this machine but not as many choices! Service guy did not do that to electric panel just collected his $ left said it needed batting’s cause he moved it and sounds like metal on metal also said I needed a new panel without testing! My washer won’t spin it does drain but no spin help!
hey I've got the same washer, as of late I've had a issue with it switching between cycles and time like it will go from 37 minutes to 18 back to thirty seven
The buttons on my washer quit responding but when I spin the knob the modes do change but I can't start it cause the start button and all the other buttons don't respond
The cancellation process is a bit strange, it will run the drain pump for an estimated five minutes straight if you do you unplug it that just reset the timer. Is it doing this every time you try to start it up?
I have issue with the buttons.The washer leaves my clothes wet and only sometimes I get to do a manual spin drain cycle,other times the all the buttons are inoperable.
My washer will turn on and then turn right back off again. I’ve unplugged waited then plugged back in. I’ve tried to do the error code check but it won’t stay on long enough. It’s also making a clicking noise even though it’s turned off.
Any ideas of what would cause this washer to make the sounds like it’s being click when it isn’t? Also when the buttons aren’t working either? We got it back in 2019.
I can't say anything about the click as it could be a few different things. However the buttons are just bad quality. I can no longer use the my cycle button on my washer (not that I really used it that often but still)
I'm having the same issue. All the buttons are mixed up, for example, If I press the power button it changes the wash setting, if I press the start button it will do the same thing without starting the wash cycle.
I just bought a newish house with this machine and it’s destroying all of our clothes. It’s so aggressive! So wrinkled. We do extra rinse. Is that bad?
Wrinkled is unfortunately to be accepted due to the nature of these machines. Unless I used delicate with a high water level clothes were wrinkled to some degree. I would say it’s a good thing to do extra rinses. Personally I’m a believer in a 2 rinse minimum, especially after having this washer
Mine seems to be stuck on sensing and then says supply h20 and doesn't start. Water does come out to get my clothes wet but that's it. I always have to start it over again. Any ideas?
I would check the solenoids. Maybe one of them is stuck. Now my question is, is there any water coming out of the detergent dispenser? As the spray jet operates on a completely different solenoid from the main water fill
@@aleecemclean3050 strange, my only other guest would be the softener valve but that wouldn't make sense as that doesn't get flushed till the rinse. Did both hot and cold actively get pumped out of the dispenser? Or was it just one water temperature and not the other?
My washer settings get stuck or sometimes they change on their own, particularly the stain settings at the bottom(which I never use). The darn thing just flips through the settings like someone is pushing them. When this happens it locks the power, start/pause buttom making it unusable. Any help is appreciated.
@@kimberlyortega8744 I ordered a new control board for $175. It worked for about a week and now it won't spin in wash cycle. It spins just fine in diagnosis, but not with a load. So discouraged.
anyone have an idea what h20 supply code means on this unit? mine will fill with more than enough water, then goe to drain and spin. thats all its doing
H2O supply code means water not entering washer. It says check your house water supply. This is their notes for models with a display on the control panel: as soon as the message starts to scroll the washer will initiate a 4-minute lockout. The washer controls won't respond change during this time after the 4 minutes you can begin your cycle again if you try to bypass the lockout. By unplugging the washer the 4-minute timer will start over again. If your washer is actually filling up, then obviously your water supply is okay, so it may be the pressure sensor that it uses to detect the level of water in your washer. If that's not reading correctly possibly due to a blocked tube going up to the control panel then it may think the washer is not filling up with water. The tub water level pressure sensor should read from 0.4 volts when empty to 3 volts at 12 in of water. You can try running the diagnostic test 10 for the pressure sensor in the field service mode. This will turn on all the valves with all LEDs blinking at start of test and stop blinking LEDs as approximate water levels are crossed. The levels are 2-in, 3-in, 4-in, 5-in, 6-in, 7-in. The water valves will shut off at the 7-in level. This test has a timeout so it'll stop trying to fill after a reasonable amount of time.
Press and hold the start button and rotate the knob 7 clicks. After that wait a few seconds and release the start button, you'll know you've done it right when the display goes out, the washer clicks and the entire display will begin to flash
From my understanding with the 680 sensing is completely normal. The normal sequence of events upon starting the machine would be the machine does two sprays locks up and the time remaining will immediately start saying sensing once it starts its spin. Once the machine has reached the bare minimum water level the display should shift over into fill. The word fill will then scroll across the screen until the machine has filled to the determined water level. As far as I know for the new 720s 750s and 840s, they also say sensing and fill during the main sensing and fill portions. But they will also say sensing during the initial minute or two of the spin period. Why that is, is actually beyond me. My assumption is that it's determining how long the machine should spin at or how fast the spin should be based on water that is removed from the clothes in that initial sensing portion
In my experience that means the lid switch has been stuck in the on position for more than 3 loads. I would recommend putting in a new lid lock system, as the machine will refuse to operate until the lid has been opened and closed again, or at the very least the lid switch has been disengaged and re-engaged
I want to say thank you for the testing mode on those machines. But I found my ways to put this on testing mode on the front loading GE washer, and works the same ways. And it has 26 tests. How genius!
THIS FIXED THE ISSUE I WAS HAVING WITH STARTING MY MACHINE!! Thank you so much!!
You’re the man! Our pipes were for about 10 hours a couple days ago, and then for 48 hours the washing machine would not do anything except say “supply h20” even after unplugging. This worked immediately. Thank you!
I have the same problem. What did you do specifically?
Thank you for posting this, it feels like a secret handshake to understand how to locate the service manual and enter diagnostic mode. I found the service sheet under my washer and was able to use it to triangulate the issue at no expense. Much appreciated!
Glad this video was of some help to you. I feel basic service manual should be given to the end consumer with the regular manual. Or basic diagnostics information in the regular manual. But that's me
I found the service sheet for mine when peering up from the bottom to check out the locked up drain pump issue I was having.
It was handy being able to use mode 12 of the service mode to toggle the power on and off for the drain pump so I can verify the control circuit was working and isolate the problem to the pump itself.
I saw the 120 volts when I toggled it on and when it was connected to the pump I just heard it hum without any spinning action. Turns out on mine there was some gravelly substance that apparently got lodged between the vanes of the pump and the pump cavity causing it to be locked up. I just spun it around after taking it off and was able to free it up and now it works fine again. Apparently there isn't enough of a screen to prevent this from happening, and just by chance one of the particles was able to lodge itself just right to lock it up.
3 10 mm bolts to remove the pump was all it really needed.
The pump resistance measured 13.5 just as the service sheet said it should.
I found the service sheet for mine when peering up from the bottom to check out the locked up drain pump issue I was having.
It was handy being able to use mode 12 of the service mode to toggle the power on and off for the drain pump so I can verify the control circuit was working and isolate the problem to the pump itself.
I saw the 120 volts when I toggled it on and when it was connected to the pump I just heard it hum without any spinning action. Turns out on mine there was some gravelly substance that apparently got lodged between the vanes of the pump and the pump cavity causing it to be locked up. I just spun it around after taking it off and was able to free it up and now it works fine again. Apparently there isn't enough of a screen to prevent this from happening, and just by chance one of the particles was able to lodge itself just right to lock it up.
3 10 mm bolts to remove the pump was all it really needed.
The pump resistance measured 13.5 just as the service sheet said it should.
I have that exact same machine and find that the clothes don’t all get wet and when washing it looks like th clothes just shake around a bit when the agitator spins , is there a certain cycle that would better or is it just a bad design
what about the spin mode???
Setting 14!
Do you know why the control push bottoms stop working ? Such as the smart dispense, water temperature all of those?
hello.... so of course as soon as my warranty is up, my washer goes to having issues 🤦♀️ I am getting the "H2O Supply" code and it is going through each cycle until close to the end.... I do not have any kinked hoses and water supply is on. I have tried running in other cycles but it only wants to work in "casual" but now this setting is starting to cancel itself too 🤦♀️ suggestions?
Hey, mine is the same and the round large button will not turn. Stuck on bulk, all washes 60 min. . Everything else works. Anyway I can fix that?
Any fix for a soil level changing on its own while washing clothes?
We bought a washer very similar to this and I have to say I kind of hate it. Clothes keep coming out with white streaks that I initially thought were detergent residue (even though we are using HE detergent) but it almost looks like wet lint or fluff. I have no idea where it comes from but we can't get rid of it. Today was worse. We had some sheets that came out looking like they had mud or wet sand. Again, I have no idea where it comes from, but we are continually washing and re-washing stuff.
It's only a few months old but I can't wait to get rid of it.
thanks!!!! runs perfect after this !!!
I have this set I just baught it looking to see what issues might be
I have this same exact washer. I bought it a week ago and now the lid is not locking. What can I do?
I can't get mine to the diagnostic mode. Any suggestions please?
And I can't find the paper. It has been put in a safe place ugh. 😢
I had a power strike near my home that caused the breaker to switch, now the machine will not power on. Can you tell me how to check a fuse please please help.
hello, to let u know that my dad turned off the washer machine & the dry machine so i can’t even use it.. do you know to turn it back on or no?? /: ;-; ☠︎
So, how do you open one of these up? Is it just like the older metal top ones where you poke some spring clips in the front-top? It doesn't feel as easy as my old one did and I don't want to force it.
2 screws in the back. Push and lift
Hi there. Our GE washer is stop working suddenly with beep sound. Any clue. Thank you
Great video! washer works again after troubleshooting
Okay, this worked for me ONCE. Now it's not working anymore...any clues?
Mine is leaking from the water station. Do you have any videos on a fix for that?
My power button won’t work. Everything else lights up. I just replaced the water inlet valve. Can I just replace the power button
I have prob with same washer it not start and when I push button it just change mode, and not start working, how to fix it please? Thx
Thank you but mine never stop to pause it's always on and off on and off... and the water does not come outside... please help me. Thank you.
How do I find error codes
Greetings,
I just came across your video. I'm researching information/videos pertaining to my GE Model GTW755CPM1DG which I haven't come across. The issues that I'm having is trying to bypass the water level sensor. The water levels are not efficient at all just is not enough water especially the amounts giving for bedding. Would you happen to know how to bypass this feature? The other issue I have is the frequent balance sensor especially during the spin cycle it occasionally run into problems trying to spin wet towels combined with other linen. Oh and there's the occasional error code Water Supply line/ H2O that appears and I am not able to wash until countless failed attempts. I end up having to reset multiple times and take the washer offline til the next day and try again. I'm so frustrated with this machine! Any suggestions you can offer here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I you ever find them,. let me know. I hate these new washers because of this....my old Maytag always filled and always cleaned. These new machines are all energy saving stupid...and I say stupid because you end up washing things twice since they never actually get cleaned!
As for water? When it comes to the end of the fill cycle and is just about to do wash? I hit the deep fil AGAIN...and it tends to fill more.
How do you get the cancel code off and what is it for?
I have the exact machine and it giving an H2O supply error message, but it seems to be filling fine on hot and cold side. I went through and ran both fills in diagnostic mode too. Seems to be filling fine. Any suggestions?
same issue. any new info on how to fix it
I just got mine today same issues. Can u tell me how you fixed yours please
I never fixed mine. I still have it and hoping for a solution, but have to get rid of it at some point.
I have this exact machine. The setting buttons get stuck A LOT - very frustrating. I've unplugged, lifted & closed lid several times, turned the power on - then pressed a setting, pressed a setting - then turned power on - Once in a while they work and setting lights will move up and down as normal. I am DESPERATE, and don't want to call a tech. I just need to know what to do and I know I can do it myself! Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!
I’m going through this now smh
Same here, and of course, it's just about the worst possible time for this! Good luck!
Same with mine, won't work🤦🏼
How the heck do I open the lid on this machine? I have a leak at the supply line
Thank you!
Do you know what kind of test should I run if my washer just does the sensing and right away mark end
Hello! I am having this EXACT same issue. Did you ever find a solution??
My loads are completing, but I get flashing codes when I start in the time remaining. Sometimes F1 and 11 and other codes return to countdown with normal time. Any ideas?
That sheet was not tapped to the side of my washer. Can I find it online somewhere?
Yes you can
www.manualslib.com/products/Ge-Gtw680bsjws-5897444.html
Mine just began to drain water that is not there. Doesnt stop. Pulled the plug. Flashes 39
We have EC code flashing. Any way to bypass?
Does anyone knows how to unblock the controls
I had this machine for 6 months and I loved it until it washes clothes but when it goes to spin the light will flash and won’t spin. And water would fill up again . Do you have any reason why ? pretty disappointed. If you know let me know thanks.
It’s balancing. Drives me nuts when it keeps doing that.
My Temp/Soil/Spin buttons sometimes don't work (no matter how hard I press)...is that a motherboard issue and needs to be replaced?
Hmmm.
I have this same washer. The fault seemed to indicate sensor. When I looked it up in the sheet, it implied the mode shifter.
The washer fills but when it is time to agitate it lasts 1 minute then it stops. If left alone then the machine just shuts off. Put it on drain and spin and it goes all the way through.
My feeling is, it is the bearing. This can not be found in any diagnositics manual. The bearing is noisy.
What makes me say this, that is to blame the bearing?
The agitator was loose and wobbly. When I tried to remove it, it fought me tooth and nail. So I cut it off, the top neck section. Then I could get to the bolt and unbolted it. The only part that was still left was the bottom piece that is between the main skirt and the top agitator. I somehow then cut it off too. It was the problem was it was not coming out in the first place.
I installed the main skirt back and bolted it. And the top cap fit on it perfect incidently.
I turned the machine on. Came to realize that the machine agitated almost all completley before it quit, lasting much longer.
When I removed the top wobbling agitator, it cut the rough movement of the machine in half basically. This roughness is not the same as bad suspension that cause out of balance type of rocking.
Any ideas if my suspension is correct. Bad bearing cause agitating trouble but not necessarily spin problem?
The bearings are most likely causing the noise while spinning, but the shifter is probably what is causing it to be unable to do agitation, from my knowledge and experience with my 680, the machine is perfectly fine just spinning without doing a shifter check, however if it has to agitate and cannot unlock the shifter it will not be able to do any wash whatsoever. After about 15 minutes of non-use, the machine will begin the cancellation process.
My assumption is that your machine is erroring out because it cannot shift and is stuck with the water, after a certain period of time about 15 minutes or so the machine cancels out and begins draining out the water. I would start with replacing the shifter and going from there. Based on what you have told me the motors completely fine and all other important parts are working, it seems that it's just the shifter
Hello! I have a same washer. On the display said LID but the lid is close. Not sure what is going on but not working. Maybe you can help me.
It could be that the wiring connection to the locking mechanism is not making a good connection
My washer will not turn on , what could be wrong?
Can u help me mine won't start and fill with water it's completely cut off and won't turn back on
If lid doesn’t unlock display says lid, how does it unlock manually? Ty
How do you do a factory reset on the control module? Mine is currently stuck in limbo on an old wifi that is no longer in use. I cannot change it through the SmartHQ app because I deleted the appliance.
That I actually don't know, I'm hoping with the time that has passed between our comments that your issue was resolved though
I’m having exact same issue. Somehow I did manage to get my dryer to reconnect
Same
After I enter the diagnosis mode I was able to scroll from 0-19 but if I press start on any number nothing happens. Have you ever had something like that occurred. Please help.
From my experience putting both my washer and dryer into diagnostics mode, that is normal. The numbers each represent a test (such as running the recirculation pump or the spray valve.)
I have a he he washer which one doesn’t spin
I cannot get mine to go into diagnostic mode. I have the exact same machine.
Will it diagnose spin cycle? My washer turns on and makes the noise as if it's trying to spin, but doesn't spin. And then it just ends the cycle without actually starting it.
Yes, the spin test is test 14
❤ YES THANK YOU 🙏😊🎉
Mine is just like this one, I am having a problem with it taking in my laundry soap, is there a fix for that
I would say it starts with how much and what type of detergent you are using. In my experience powdered detergent are best put into the basket in the washer instead of the tray.
And thicker detergents like persil won’t be fully dispensed.
Thank you for the video....could you do one on replacing the start button...
I push the lock buttons for 3 seconds and it still won't unlock to panel . What is it
Mine is forever sensing then filling up then saying Supply H20 and draining just replaced the safety lid switch for 34 dollars and it didn't fix it either
I have same washer ,my start button is worn out, have to bush hard on it to start . How do I fix it
That seems to be the question of the day here. Good luck! I did get mine to work today by pressing start with the lid in the open position instead of closed.. tomorrow, who knows :(
I have this machine but not as many choices! Service guy did not do that to electric panel just collected his $ left said it needed batting’s cause he moved it and sounds like metal on metal also said I needed a new panel without testing! My washer won’t spin it does drain but no spin help!
hey I've got the same washer, as of late I've had a issue with it switching between cycles and time like it will go from 37 minutes to 18 back to thirty seven
Is auto soak on?
I have this washer. It starts. Goes thru sensoring then says CANCEL. Acts like it wants to shut down but doesnt
Mine clicks on and off after I changed the lid lock sensor and doesn't turn anyone have any idea
What about washer stuck running and saying H2O Supply? I forgot to turn the water on before starting the washer
Actually it's the pump running
Are you able to show how to remove the lid for replacing a lid lock striker on this model?
Open the lid, remove the two screws on each side of the lid and pull the lid upward and it will slide off 👌🏽
Open the lid, remove the two screws on each side of the lid and pull the lid upward and it will slide off 👌🏽
Hi my power button does nothing, panel lights up when lid open then I close it but it won't start, any help? I have same machine, thank you.
Mine is doing this exact same thing.
The buttons on my washer quit responding but when I spin the knob the modes do change but I can't start it cause the start button and all the other buttons don't respond
Sameeee problem... Did you ever figure it out???
I can’t get my washing machine into diagnostic mode. Help!
My machine is turning on and sounds like it’s pumping water automatically and lights up saying canceled, any clue what’s going on!!
The cancellation process is a bit strange, it will run the drain pump for an estimated five minutes straight if you do you unplug it that just reset the timer. Is it doing this every time you try to start it up?
My washer is full of water and not working. It makes some sounds, but nothing happens.
I get the code "h20 supply" water is running into the tub but it won't fill up. Pressure switch maybe?
Maybe, I would also check the lines going into the washer, as there are tiny filters in the back where the hoses connect and those might be clogged
Anyone have issues with the deep rinse not working? My washer is a just over 3 years old. I did diagnostics test and have codes 31, 29, and 26.
I have issue with the buttons.The washer leaves my clothes wet and only sometimes I get to do a manual spin drain cycle,other times the all the buttons are inoperable.
@@orwella9037 am having that same problem now with my machine, did u get it fix?
@@jamaicaboy I did fixed it. I bought the control board and replaced it. It worked and is still working great.
@@orwella9037 thank you
What would cause mine to drain all the water out while agitating?
I know this was a year ago but we are having the same issue. Did you find a resolution? ty
@@GregoryEccleston nope
My washer will turn on and then turn right back off again. I’ve unplugged waited then plugged back in. I’ve tried to do the error code check but it won’t stay on long enough. It’s also making a clicking noise even though it’s turned off.
Did you find a fix? I have the same issue.
Any ideas of what would cause this washer to make the sounds like it’s being click when it isn’t? Also when the buttons aren’t working either? We got it back in 2019.
I can't say anything about the click as it could be a few different things.
However the buttons are just bad quality. I can no longer use the my cycle button on my washer (not that I really used it that often but still)
I'm having the same issue. All the buttons are mixed up, for example, If I press the power button it changes the wash setting, if I press the start button it will do the same thing without starting the wash cycle.
Crazy, I'm all of sudden having the same issue everyone here is talking about. Purchased our machine in 2019 as well.
We're having the same issue here. :( Definitely not a good time for it. Good luck
& I find myself here with one purchased in 2019
I just bought a newish house with this machine and it’s destroying all of our clothes. It’s so aggressive! So wrinkled. We do extra rinse. Is that bad?
Wrinkled is unfortunately to be accepted due to the nature of these machines. Unless I used delicate with a high water level clothes were wrinkled to some degree.
I would say it’s a good thing to do extra rinses. Personally I’m a believer in a 2 rinse minimum, especially after having this washer
Our dial and buttons aren't responding, so whenever I move the dial or click the buttons, it doesn't respond
My GE dryer wont start it says clean lint filter. Stuck on pause. “Control sensing”
I cant start it? Any suggestions
Mine won't spin, anyway to fix it? Thanks!
Sorry for the late reply, but I would start with the motor. If the motor is fine I would check the shifter.
Mine seems to be stuck on sensing and then says supply h20 and doesn't start. Water does come out to get my clothes wet but that's it. I always have to start it over again. Any ideas?
It's also a new thing it didn't do this before but now it's every single wash
I would check the solenoids. Maybe one of them is stuck.
Now my question is, is there any water coming out of the detergent dispenser? As the spray jet operates on a completely different solenoid from the main water fill
Yes water is coming out of the detergent dispenser
@@aleecemclean3050 strange, my only other guest would be the softener valve but that wouldn't make sense as that doesn't get flushed till the rinse.
Did both hot and cold actively get pumped out of the dispenser? Or was it just one water temperature and not the other?
My drum seems to be knocking when washing. I’m figuring it out but I don’t know what the part is called to replace it or if I can reconnect it. Lol
My washer settings get stuck or sometimes they change on their own, particularly the stain settings at the bottom(which I never use). The darn thing just flips through the settings like someone is pushing them. When this happens it locks the power, start/pause buttom making it unusable. Any help is appreciated.
Mine does the exact same thing
@@kimberlyortega8744 I ordered a new control board for $175. It worked for about a week and now it won't spin in wash cycle. It spins just fine in diagnosis, but not with a load. So discouraged.
Did you ever get this resolved? I have the same issue and was thinking the control board, but not sure if I want to roll the dice.
@@cm4308 all but the spin cycle which I don't think was a control board issue. I ended up buying a new set.
@@debbiehopkins2206 Thank you very much for the info. I love the "limited 10 year warranty" badge...I just wish it would have lasted 4 years 🤷♂️
I don't want to test it, I need it to start working again. 🥺
My washer keeps displaying the word LID on the screen. How do I fix that?
Did you ever figure out how to fix it, mine is saying LID now too!
@jamesstundis1252 nope, I just got a new one
anyone have an idea what h20 supply code means on this unit? mine will fill with more than enough water, then goe to drain and spin. thats all its doing
All I know is it has to do with the water supply. I would think your machine has something wrong on the logic board
H2O supply code means water not entering washer.
It says check your house water supply. This is their notes for models with a display on the control panel:
as soon as the message starts to scroll the washer will initiate a 4-minute lockout. The washer controls won't respond change during this time after the 4 minutes you can begin your cycle again if you try to bypass the lockout. By unplugging the washer the 4-minute timer will start over again.
If your washer is actually filling up, then obviously your water supply is okay, so it may be the pressure sensor that it uses to detect the level of water in your washer. If that's not reading correctly possibly due to a blocked tube going up to the control panel then it may think the washer is not filling up with water. The tub water level pressure sensor should read from 0.4 volts when empty to 3 volts at 12 in of water.
You can try running the diagnostic test 10 for the pressure sensor in the field service mode.
This will turn on all the valves with all LEDs blinking at start of test and stop blinking LEDs as approximate water levels are crossed.
The levels are 2-in, 3-in, 4-in, 5-in, 6-in, 7-in. The water valves will shut off at the 7-in level.
This test has a timeout so it'll stop trying to fill after a reasonable amount of time.
We just bought mine last week and it’s doing this exact thing
Mine is doing the same thing. Did you figure out a solution?
Mine won’t agitate or spin what could be the cause it started back up randomly. then a week later it’s doing it again?
I've gotten that far, but I still can't get it to spin. Can anyone help?
Kirk did you ever figure out your problem? I am having the same. Thanks
Mine literally stops running in mid cycle and then says end, like it finished the cycle but clothes are soaked and barely agitated.
Same. Did you find a solution?
What do you do if none of the buttons are working?
Yes that's what I'm wanting to know? 😫
@@puppylove126 I have the same problem! 😢
Thanks for the video my some of my buttons aren't working and cue what I could do
Did you find the solution to this please?
Which models apply to this
I'm going to go out out on a limb and assume it's pretty much every model in the gtw line up
@@MaytagMachineManiac ok
GE Washer GTW680BSJ3WS is the one I have
GE Washer GTW680BSJ3WS is the one I have
Which one is spin mode
14 or 15 I believe
What dose it mean when it says lid?
The lid switch is open and the machine thinks the lid has not been closed
@@MaytagMachineManiachow do I fix it
How do you unlock the controls?. Please help me
Press and hold the start button and rotate the knob 7 clicks. After that wait a few seconds and release the start button, you'll know you've done it right when the display goes out, the washer clicks and the entire display will begin to flash
@@MaytagMachineManiac Thanks so much,you saved me so much frustration
@@danielwebster7766 you're welcome, I hope whatever issue you are having with your machine is fixed quickly
Thanks, it worked,you have a new subscriber
Yo ocupo el video en español x k no se Inglés x favor
Mine doesn't drain
where does the bleach go?
in the bleach dispenser
H20 supply comes on soon as plugged up and won't go to other cycles or power off unless unplugged
My washer keep on saying sense what cold be wrong
From my understanding with the 680 sensing is completely normal. The normal sequence of events upon starting the machine would be the machine does two sprays locks up and the time remaining will immediately start saying sensing once it starts its spin. Once the machine has reached the bare minimum water level the display should shift over into fill. The word fill will then scroll across the screen until the machine has filled to the determined water level.
As far as I know for the new 720s 750s and 840s, they also say sensing and fill during the main sensing and fill portions. But they will also say sensing during the initial minute or two of the spin period.
Why that is, is actually beyond me. My assumption is that it's determining how long the machine should spin at or how fast the spin should be based on water that is removed from the clothes in that initial sensing portion
Hello I know this is a year old mine say lid and won't start
In my experience that means the lid switch has been stuck in the on position for more than 3 loads.
I would recommend putting in a new lid lock system, as the machine will refuse to operate until the lid has been opened and closed again, or at the very least the lid switch has been disengaged and re-engaged
Mine has no power 😕
Did you get this resolved
Thank you… thank you …thank you
Im hit drain & spin all lights flashings
Mine is not spinning
Same
Setting 14