Hello Sylvia! We are glad to hear this video helped with selecting the correct and best performing terminations for your structured cabling system. We would love to hear the outcome when you are finished with your project!
Hello and thanks for leaving a comment! There was a time when I similarly did not fully realize the differences, but after getting multiple BICSI certifications and having access to a Fluke DSX-8000 to do "what-if" testing I was able to share this information. I am glad you found it enlightening
Honestly bro, I truly appreciate the content you and TrueCABLE put out. This was one of the most real, straight forward and informative videos I've seen on terminating. This will be kept in mind for the rest of my career. I'm a wannabe professional and y'all are bringing me closer to my goal. MAD RESPECT!!
Hey David!! Thank you for taking the time to watch our content and support trueCABLE. We spend a lot of time creating content in hopes to help and inspire individuals like yourself. Your comment means so much to us and was a great reminder of why we do what we do. Please let us know if we can help in any way along your networking journey. We are always happy to help :)
I ran cable through my house so I could have wired connections to all my tvs from router. I used keystone jacks and purchase patch cables to go from jacks to device. Not that involved and it works great!! Thanks for your video.
This video is 100% on point. When I come into a new customer so many times I see the crap job the previous cable installer did by terminating the MDF end in a rj45. One of the first jobs we do is replace the RJ45s with a proper keystone solution
Thank you for this video. I'm planning to run some cat6a cable from my living room into the basement which I was going to terminate with regular rj45 connectors. I've now ordered some proper keystone tool-less connectors. It's only going to be supporting a one gig internet speed but at least it will be future proof!
Hello! You are welcome and you are making a VERY wise choice. You will find that this solution will serve you way better! Please subscribe to our channel if you have not done so yet, we have quite a bit of upcoming videos we just shot we think you would enjoy!
I'm actually having issues with 10GbE on one of the longer runs connected to my windows machine. I'm going to re-terminate into keystones and see if that improves my situation. Love these videos!
Hello Sean! You will likely see a massive improvement. Keystones at both ends will do a lot for performance. Just be sure to keep permanent links (jack to jack) to 295 feet or less and adjust for ambient temperature as well. As temps go above 68 degrees F, your runs get SHORTER. For patch cords, don't use excessively long ones to patch into your permanent link. Per the spec, you have a total of 33 feet (accounting for both sides) to work with and that is assuming 24AWG. That drops to 26 feet for 26AWG and 20 feet total for 28AWG. For a chart that goes over complete calculation of a permanent link + patch cords (overall channel) see here: www.truecable.com/blogs/cable-academy/calculating-ethernet-cable-overall-channel-length-for-success.
@@Saturn2888 Hello! Failure to Certify on my cable analyzer was the primary issue. Best results are achieved with IDC (insulation displacement contact) terminations such as keystone jacks that punch down or are "toolless".
My whole home network is a patchpanel on one end and cheap plugs (5 bucks for 50pcs or something like that) on the other, and I gotta say it’s not that bad. Connected to a TV, access points etc. works like a charm, but every few months I have to replace the connector on my PCs cable because the conductors inside break from movement. (And by movement I mean turning it around to connect USB, or a second display, or opening the case to clean dust, not moving the PC to a different room.)
Hello! The whole punch down or keystone patch panel > RJ45 type link is known as MPTL or Modular Plug Terminated Link. This is a valid termination strategy, assuming you don't move the cable around too much. It is mean for WiFi APs and PoE cameras, etc. That said, the plug side should not be breaking THAT easy unless you opted for CCA conductor cable? CCA conductors are much more brittle. Aside from that, if you want to increase reliability of your cabling connections I would terminate the raw Ethernet to keystone jacks and mount them into single or dual port surface mount boxes. Then use stranded copper patch cords from the surface mount box to your PC and the like. The solid copper conductor cable will suffer minimal/no movement and stranded copper patch cords are meant to be plugged and unplugged and moved around without suffering damage. I hope that helps!
@@trueCABLE Yeah I know that I should go with jacks in the walls, this was supposed to be temporary and then I never touched it again. Bought some cheap CCA outdoor cable since I only needed a few 100Mbit runs for my cameras, but it was fine with gigabit so I made temporary runs to my PC, console etc. and here I am years later with those not so temporary connections still in place.
@@littl3spy Hello and I am glad to hear your not so temporary install is still working OK. We stand ready to help get you the gear you need when that CCA starts to become a problem!
Best video out there! I only have 1 question - What is all this confusion about connector types for wire/solid core/universal. You know, 2/3 pronged, angle pronged. What to buy for home use and all my cables?!
Hello! 2 prong 8P8C plugs are for stranded copper conductor Ethernet. 3 prong 8P8C plugs are for stranded and solid. I guess you could call the 3 prong version "universal" but that is a misnomer. 8P8C plugs are not, in any way, universal as they are so fitment dependent on the insulated conductor diameter and cable jacket OD anyway. I would purchase the 3 prong version in any case.
Very interesting from a newly-interested DIY-er. I'm about to drop new lines in some rooms as I'm tired of the lagging WiFi on certain parts of the house. I just ordered your 500 FT Cat6 rather than your Cat6A after watching your honest opinion about a recent video you produced regarding the differences between the two. Thank you for the education as I was initially looking into Cat7! Can you elaborate a bit more as to what you meant regarding Cat6 being one of the "most versatile cables on the planet" after the newer NBASE-T protocol?
Hello and thanks for your question! You were right to ditch Cat7. It is no better than Cat6A and both are rated to 10G up to 328 feet. Cat7 is also not a ANSI/TIA recognized Category. Cat6 is extremely versatile because it is easy to run and bends tighter than Cat6A, plus it can reach 10G at 120 feet or less even when in a larger cable bundles. Due to 23 AWG conductors, it also handles PoE very well. The new(er) NBASE-T protocols (2.5GBASE-T and 5GBASE-T) also operate on Cat6 up to 328 feet without issues. Finally, add to the mix that Cat6 is less expensive and uses less expensive keystone jacks and you end up with a very versatile cable.
Thanks Don for the high quality content! What cable config do you recommend from modem to switch that would support 10 GbE? Cat6A unshielded with field termination plugs on both sides? Or? (Its unfortunate that trueCABLE doesn't sell patch cables)
Hey Mark! You are welcome. We have patch cables coming, but they are still at least 90 days out. As for a high speed & high reliability Cat6A patch cable connection between modem to switch I would definitely be using that unshielded Cat6A cable with the Cat6A Unshielded Field Term Plugs on both ends. This is critical for solid copper conductors! You won't regret going this direction.
So I've always been in the "No hand-crimped RJ45!!" group for many years, having experienced countless imperfect terminations and even cables that are fine at first would tend to fail in a few months of they get wiggled or bumped much. I was recently introduced to passthrough 8P8C connectors, where the individual conductors actually protrude from the front of the housing and get trimmed when your crimp it. This method would seem to resolve all of the most common imperfections I used to see (conductors weren't cut perfectly straight, stripped too long/short and the jacket isn't being held properly by the housing when crimped, etc). I'm wondering if you have any experience or comment on these. I'm about to wire up a house with cat6 (unshielded), and currently it's only going to be gigabit but I might want to make a few backhaul lines 10Gb in future. One end will be punched down to a Keystone, do you think that would be good enough even if the other end is crimped? The runs will only be maybe 30-50ft.
Hello and thanks for your comment. I have found the root of the issue to be the way RJ45 8P8C plugs hold the conductor, which applies to pass through and non passthrough style 8P8C plugs. Your better experience with those pass through plugs was likely due to them being a better fit for your particular cable as opposed to the fact they were passthrough. Although there are some valid use cases for putting 8P8C RJ45 plugs onto solid copper Ethernet (MPTL runs pushing PoE to an end point device that requires PoE for example) I strongly suggest IDC style terminations--especially for cabling that will be called upon to push 10GBASE-T. This means your original thought of keystones and patch panels is still the way to go. Another overlooked IDC style of termination is the field termination plug, which give you a male plug end but terminates largely like a tool-less keystone jack and has a PCB inside helping to impedance match the cable run.
Great video. Thanks for creating it. Can I ask for a little more clarity please as far as when you mention best connection…. I understand the runs through the house to faceplates or patch panel would be best to be terminated with keystone jacks. Then from switch (POE) or otherwise to patch panel or wall plate those cables should terminated with field plugs. Where I lose clarity is what connection to 1) POE cameras 2) modem/router 3) computer/ps5/cable box/smart tv etc? Are those the RJ45 terminations or should those also be field plugs unless they don’t fit the device being connected? I am not talking office/commercial use. I am talking DIY through my home for best connection to everything and from internet provider. It seems that every video out there is for pass thru rj45 terminations. It seems like with Cat6 that is the “RUclips” ongoing recommendation :). Thx
Hello! Generally speaking, once the solid copper permanent links are installed (patch panel to keystone to keystone to keystone) then you should patch into them with factory pre-terminated patch cable of the same Category (or higher) as your solid copper links. If you are constructing a MPTL run, which is patch panel or keystone to male plug end the best way is to a field termination plug unless it won't fit in the end point device. In that case you should use the RJ45 8P8C plug as you already surmised. Same room connections like from cable modem to router should also be done with a factory pre-terminated patch cable.
Hello! I would strongly suggest buying a 500ft spool of our Cat6A Unshielded Direct Burial cable and then terminating both sides of both runs to Cat6A Unshielded Tool-less keystone jacks. You will need 4 keystones. Mount the keystones in wall plates in your home and then in your shop. You can buy two port wall plates so both runs come to the same spot in both structures. Finish up with two factory pre-made Cat6A patch cords on both sides to the destination devices. This method will give you flexibility. The permanent part of the install will have the cable buried and mounted in a fixed location in both structures. You then have the flexibility to use different lengths of patch cords on both sides if your equipment happens to move around inside one or both structures. Considering your permanent runs are only 150 feet each, you have a lot of flexibility on how long the patch cords can be on both sides (combined length). You will have to be aware of the copper gauge of the patch cords and be prepared to trade length for thinner gauges, though. Here is a blog and video that will tell you how to calculate it properly: www.truecable.com/blogs/cable-academy/calculating-ethernet-cable-overall-channel-length-for-success. Be sure to watch the video AND read the blog because the written blog has lots of tables and examples.
I'm in the UK, I think both the layman and the DIYer with some knowledge will have little use for greater than 1 GigaBit for quite a while, so I'm just trying to figure out your mindset wrt not recommending the basic gigabit stuff. Is it purely from the business point of view that you'll get fewer edge case failures and will be future-proofed? I work in schools, I am a graduate in networking, and I've never used anything past 8P8C plugs with copper. For the 10GBics we have fiber runs from cab to cab. However, we're commissioning a new school, and I think government regs are requiring 2.5Gbe capable cabling moving forward. So it will be interesting if we need to start using field-termination-connectiors with impedance matching etc for patching APs in etc? Anyway, my first video of yours, liked all aspects of it. Thank you.
Hello Miff! Howdy from the USA. I agree that the vast majority of consumers will be on 1G for quite some time to come. That said, I have seen the market moving steadily towards 2.5G in the home (computer motherboards, cable modems, and some Ethernet switches). 5G and 10G are typically seen in commercial settings at the present, but there is the odd homeowner running those speeds for various reasons (NAS, etc.). 8P8C plugs, no matter the Category or speed, are a potential problem point from a mechanical (and therefore electrical) standpoint due to the extreme degree of sensitivity to proper fitment. If you get the fitment wrong (insulated conductor diameter, or cable overall thickness) your 8P8C plugs are going to be the source of headaches. IDC terminations (keystones, field termination plugs, etc.) are much less fitment sensitive and eliminate a possible major point of failure from your LAN. I recommend keystones and field termination plugs where possible not only for the path of least issues, but also for their ability to allow your structured cabling system to reach its maximum potential, and as speeds increase over time this will become more of a factor. Of course, there are times when 8P8C plugs MUST be used due to installation limitations like tight PoE WiFi AP and camera housings, but use of 8P8Cs on solid copper Ethernet should be kept at a minimum. Otherwise, leave the 8P8C plugs to factory pre-terminated and tested patch cords. Thank you for watching, we are happy to have you here!
Really appreciate the excellent video. I had 2000 Mbps fiber installed and the technician used 5e cable and standard RJ45 connectors. The computer end uses a USB-C adapter to a MacBook. Should I replace both connectors with field term plugs? I do receive 2-2.3 Mbps download speeds but the slightest move of the cable cuts signal out.
Hey RK! Thanks for the kudos. Cat5e can handle 2.5Gb/s via NBASE-T so you can remain on Cat5e if you have no future plans to increase speed. If you intend to start stringing new cable then I would opt for solid copper Cat6A with Cat6A keystones for the permanent runs + Cat6A factory made patch cords to patch into the solid copper runs. This would be best for future proofing since you are likely to buy into 10Gb/s at some point -- judging based upon how fast you are going now. As an aside, if the movement of cable causes loss of signal this means either the cable is bad or one of the terminations is bad. You will have to start replacing patch cables, etc. to run down what it is. Hopefully it is not the USB-C port on the MacBook! Given I don't know how your installation looks that is about the best advice I can give right now. This is something that would require me to stand there and troubleshoot.
Hello! When it comes to Category rated items like keystone jacks, you can use a higher rated connector than the cable you are using (but not lower). The reason for not doing that is due to cost, and it does not get you more performance since the limiting factor is the lowest Category rated component in the chain. Cat6A keystone jacks are much more expensive than Cat5e, as well. As for 8P8C plugs (aka RJ45) it is not a matter of Category but a matter of fitment. RJ45 plugs don't have a Category, technically speaking. Hope this helps!
I'm wondering, how would you transition between cable jacket types. I'm planning to run CAT 6a burial and then in wall, how would I transition between the burial cable and riser cable retaining a good signal? (Planning to make the transition in a junction box attached to the wall outside) Awesome video, so informative along with the blog on the website!!!!
Hello Chad! The best way to transition from outdoor to indoor cable is with 110 punch down splice block. You might have trouble finding a Cat6A one, however. Cat6 and Cat5e are very common. Secondarily, the next best way to preserve performance would be with Cat6A field termination plugs, which we carry. Terminate the end of the outdoor cable coming inside with a field termination plug and then use a component rated Cat6A coupler (which we also carry) in between. Terminate the end of the indoor cable going to the coupler with a field termination plug as well. The end of the cable that reaches your switch area should be terminated to a keystone jack or yet another field termination plug if you are not using a patch panel. At no point should you use a RJ45 8P8C plug for this task. Thanks for the kudos on our content!
Hello and greetings from the USA! As to your question: Sorry, no. trueCABLE's focus is solely on Ethernet Category LAN cable (Cat5e and higher) and coaxial cable at this time. We have no plans to carry equipment for, or produce content around, PBX telephony topics.
Hello Jollyprez! Run length is not relevant. In fact, the shorter the run the more likely errors will show up due to poor termination performance due to stronger reflections back and forth in the cable. That is why IDC connections (keystones, field termination plugs) are so valuable. They impedance match your run and far more mechanically (therefore electrically) stable. If you need only 1G performance, then 8P8C connectors are still viable but at the same time I still recommend caution and being sure you are using plugs and cable that have been tested and validated together. Don't mix brands, in other words. There are a lot of things that can go wrong with 8P8C connectors terminated to solid copper Ethernet and you want to control as many variables as possible. One thing I have found is that the cheaper you go on your terminations, the need for an advanced tester like a Fluke LinkIQ intensifies!
I had no idea how important keystones are before watching this video. It was very informative, thank you! Could you please answer a little question, tho? Let's say I run shielded cables from a shielded patch panel to keystone jacks on the walls. If the cable is bound to the patch panel, do the keystone jacks (or RJ45 Connectors) on the wall need to be shielded keystone jacks as well? There is nowhere to bind them at walls anyway, even if I wanted to. Also, they are VERY expensive in Brazil, so I would really appreciate the money I'd save, but I want to make a proper installation. Another question if I may, are cat 6 keystones compatible with 23AWG Cat6A cables? In this case, it's not about the money, but a matter of availability, unfortunately. I'm having trouble finding more cat 6A connectors at the local stores, I can only ship them from far away =/
It is better to use shielded hardware at both ends of your permanent link. Termination to shielded hardware bonds the shield, drain wire, and connector together, and doing this at both ends provides a more robust system. However, using an unshielded jack at one end will still work, including the shield if it is grounded at the other end. Sometimes, this is done to avoid the possibility of a ground loop in the shield circuit. If the Cat6 jacks will fit properly to the Cat6A cable conductors, you may use them, but performance will be constrained to Cat6 levels. The thing to watch out for is the diameter of the insulation on the conductors. Depending on the manufacturer, the insulation might be larger on the Cat6A cable. If the conductors punch-down properly without having to force the insulation to go in, then it should work fine.
Does the TrueCABLE Cat6A Toolless Field Termination Plug, Shielded (STP), PoE++ (4PPoE), TAA Compliant fit properly when used with a TP-Link 10Gb switch? Specifically, is there enough space to use all ports side by side given the larger size of these plugs? Any insights or experiences would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Hello! Yup, no problem. The side by side fitment on high density switches is no issue. I have tested that, and our field termination plugs were designed with that in mind. The issue you might run into with field termination plugs is due to the length, primarily.
Hello guys! Looking into upgrading my home cabling with Cat6a, I'm currently running 3 routers as wired APs. This is an old house so it all has to be ran outside, so I will be using shielded cabling, but was thinking into doing a combination of Field Term plugs on one end and regular shielded Rj45 on the other. Would this be as reliable as doing keystone/Rj45? Like I said, I won't be able to do keystones so I was thinking this would be the next best thing. Hope you can help me out!
Hey Axel! Yup, that would be as performant as using keystones > RJ45s. The Field Termination plug is also a component rated and impedance matching Category rated device, so it does a lot for cable performance. Obviously, a field term at both ends is even better IF you can get away with using a larger style termination. If you do get forced into using shielded RJ45s on solid copper, just be super careful and precise about how you terminate them. If you are using our Cat6/6A Shielded Pass Through RJ45 on our shielded Cat6A, then there is very detailed and up-to-date instructions found here: www.truecable.com/blogs/cable-academy/how-to-terminate-a-shielded-cat6-6a-external-ground-pass-through-rj45-connector.
Are using coupler patch panel bad for cat6a/10gbps networks? I have multiple 2.5Gbps Unifi Ap’s connected back to the coupler patch panel (Rj45 at both ends of the cable), i did this for multiple installations with no problems. But suddenly have issues maintaining 2.5Gbps FDX on a different place.
Hello! You discovered what many people have or will soon. LAN speeds are increasing, with 2.5G becoming common. Anyone using a coupler with questionable quality factory made patch cords or hand-terminated solid copper Ethernet (using RJ45s) is at high risk for issues. Up until now, 1G networks have been relatively tolerant of coupler use assuming a certain minimum level of quality and good workmanship. Even then, though, coupler use is a gamble. To answer your question more directly: It is a BAD idea to design a permanent installation with keystone jack couplers from the get go. TIA, BICSI, and other industry organizations saw this coming and don't recommend you use couplers at all. trueCABLE modifies this recommendation a bit by indicating that if you are using pre-Certified patch cords (Certified, NOT "verified"), then it is acceptable to use a single coupler in a channel assuming you don't need to Certify the installation after completion and present test results to a customer. The installation may not fully pass TIA performance testing which is quite strict and severe, although it may work well enough for some installations. I generally think of couplers as for "oops" moments and temporary until I get the issue corrected via cable replacement. So, if you are going to use couplers at all it should be with factory made, pre-TIA Certified patch cords and when you need to connect two of them together when one of the patch cords is too short to make the connection. Constructing a LAN with hand terminated RJ45s on solid copper Ethernet cable (problematic in of itself) AND couplers gives you a worst case scenario and is a recipe for disaster. You may wish to take a look at our Cable Academy at trueCABLE.com as we have extensive blogs written about how many couplers is too many and the best way to terminate Ethernet.
I wish I had seen this before I started my own networking project... I also read the article on your site, and I had a question: is there a particular reason you don't show a cable with Field plugs on both ends? I'm building a series of outdoor cat6 channels between daisy-chained PoE repeaters to reach a Point-to-point wifi AP ~1100' away. Each channel is under 300', but even so, each one in the system reduces performance considerably. Is it likely that switching from pass-thru RJ45's to field plugs would make the difference? Can I use field plugs with PoE? I'm aware Im pushing it, but hopefully with the right parts I can make it work.
Hello! I am glad you found our site and video! Not showing a cable with a Field Termination Plug at both ends was an oversight. Obviously, this is a superior way of way of creating a patch cable and this type of Field Term > Field Term cable is known as a Direct Attach Cable. You can most certainly use this strategy, and it will give you much better performance. As for PoE--absolutely! Our Field Termination Plugs easily handle 100W PoE. The reason you have seen performance degradation with RJ45s is likely due to multiple factors with the two biggest being fitment and mechanical stability. I would definitely use Field Termination Plugs at both ends of the individual runs if that is an option for you. Given that Field Termination Plugs are physically larger than RJ45s, that could be a factor in whether you use them throughout your installation as not all outdoor Ethernet switches with their weatherproof housings will accept Field Termination Plugs.
@trueCABLE thank you! I just went ahead and ordered some of your shielded field termination plugs through Amazon. Once I get them hooked up, I'll be sharing my results on my techier channel: @TheKludge4315
@@DerrangedGadgeteer Thanks and we look forward to your video. Also, I would recommend you pick up a pair of parallel crimping pliers (trueCLOSE). Here is the link to the written blog with embedded video which will give you tips on the nuances of these field termination plugs: www.truecable.com/blogs/cable-academy/how-to-terminate-a-cat6a-shielded-field-term-plug. Be sure to follow the video and written instructions closely! Both bring something to the table.
Sounds like you don't recommend using Ethernet jack couplers on patch panels? Or do those have chips inside? I'm assuming the cheap Chinese ones do not, but I'm not sure. I've been looking for a good brand that provides RJ45 couplers for my patch panel because it's so hard to pull out keystone jacks. If it was easier, I'd simply use punch-down keystone jacks instead. My issue is if I have to swap the patch panel or reconfigure the wires, it's gonna be nearly impossible if I can get the keystone jacks outta there. My drops are all punch-down keystone jacks, it's only the ones in my network closet that are RJ45. I'm up for making them punch-down if it's more reliable somehow. The patch cable itself is a Monoprice Slimrun 6" CAT6a.
Hello! Ethernet jack couplers, such as our keystone couplers, can be used in a patch panel. We would recommend keeping the use to no more than two couplers per channel. The main issue with couplers is the quality of the patch cords, not the couplers. Our couplers are impedance matching and component rated (they have PCBs inside, but then all couplers and keystones do) so if you intend to go this route use the highest quality keystone coupler you can get (again, such as ours but there are others) and be sure to use component rated patch cords. We sell the patch cords, but only up to 25ft. You can obtain component rated patch cords from CommScope and Belden as well. They cost more, but you want to keep the potential issues and points of failure to a minimum. That all said, the correct way of installing Ethernet is to use solid copper Category rated Ethernet cable for in-wall permanent cabling and punch down type terminations at both ends. A solid copper permanent link will give you the best performance and lengths. At both ends of the permanent link you would complete your connections with male patch cords. That is going to be the least problematic way, and gets around the issues of stranded copper being used throughout your installation which poses its own issues (maximum lengths being the main one).
@@trueCABLE great! I picked up RJ45 keystone couplers from your website and a bunch of other color punch-down ones for when I move. Punch-down are a pain to install in a small server closet with low clearance. I also grabbed your thin 1' patch cables. I was using the Monoprice colored ones (I like the colors), but I've had issues. I've been pushing 10Gb in spots, so this matters. I also used Monoprice CAT6 solid core in my house when I wired it up years ago, but I didn't realize the RJ45 connectors could cause issues. Thankfully, all my drops are keystone punch-down or toolless.
@@Saturn2888 Hello again! That is great. I hope you like our patch cords. I certainly do, and I am hard to please. You won't have any performance issues with them, I can assure you. I guarantee it, actually. And yes, the source of many problems with Ethernet cable installations is improper installation (damage to) Ethernet or hand terminated 8P8C (aka RJ45) connectors on solid copper Ethernet You are correct in that patch cords that have not been properly CERTIFIED (not merely verified) will cause problems, as you discovered. I have test data that backs you up, and I will be doing some expose stuff coming up in the near future that will basically throw the entire patch cord market (imported patch cords for the most part) right under the bus. Stay tuned!
@@trueCABLE I've been thinking about this all day. The patch cables I bought from TrueCABLE are 1' each. They're for patch panels in my rack. I thought it was weird when you said 25' patch cables. I have a bunch of Monoprice "thick" CAT6 cables that I use to connect devices throughout my house from the wall. Now I'm wondering if even those are problematic. For 1Gb, no issue. For 10Gb? That's where I have weird inconsistent issues. There are so many factors that I'm starting to wonder where in the chain I'm having issues with 10Gb+. I have: 1. Switch. 2. SFP+ (or SFP28 fiber) adapter. 3. 1' Patch cable. 4. Keystone jack. 5. Another cable either punched into the keystone or RJ45. 6. A keystone at the other end punched into a connector dropped (but funneled up through the basement) into a room. 7. A longer patch cable to a PC or other device. 8. Mellanox ConnectX-6 card in my PC. 9. 4x PCIe 4.0 slot on my motherboard. It's so many pieces where something could be wrong. A cable tester like you have or a video where you test cables could greatly assist me in figuring out why sometimes the PCs boot up and get no Ethernet connection until I unplug the SFP+ adapter or why it could potentially lose connection altogether or why my fiber isn't getting a good signal to my PC and why it's fine to my NAS. I don't have 4-5 other devices and cable types to test with, so it's hard to get a read on what exactly is wrong when troubleshooting especially because I lack the tools to do so. I'm in Kansas City too. Is it possible I could bring some gear to your location and see how it tests to narrow down some issues? If my Ethernet and Fiber patch cables really are bad for 10Gb, I need to buy a new batch of TrueCABLE cables instead.
As a home/diyer/enthusiast, I think I'm missing some basic element here, so you can use something other than rj45 to plug into devices? You mentioned some can't accept these though; how do you know which ones? I don't think I've ever seen one of these in the wild; why aren't they more common? What's the circumstance under which I should use these, just whenever possible? Outdoor only? Long runs (I didn't understand the part about 300ft in the video)
Hello! I fully understand the confusion. Field termination plugs terminate like a tool-less keystone jack and are very high performing, but have a side on them that is compatible with RJ45 device ports at the same time. Essentially, a field termination plug is a male ended keystone style IDC termination. The quality of the termination is extremely high due to the nature of how the IDC knives pierce the conductor insulation and conductor wires from right angles as opposed to longitudinal penetration of the insulation only by the fragile teeth found in 8P8C (aka RJ45) connector plugs. The fragile three-toothed golden contact pins will displace the insulation from the SIDE of the actual copper conductor wire (straddling it), and this creates a lot of potential for performance loss and reliability issues--especially at speeds above 1G. Just the nature of the beast, I am afraid. This issue is further amplified when putting 8P8Cs onto solid copper Ethernet as the 8P8C pins do not actually penetrate the copper at all like IDC terminations do, putting a lot of reliance of manufacturing consistency (and with manufacturing tolerances around a mid point manufacturing target you can see the problem there) and worse yet the installer being super careful and consistent. So, why would you not see them everywhere and read about them in every newspaper? It has to do with physical size and pricing. They cost quite a bit more than simple plastic 8P8C connector plugs as filed termination plugs are Category rated and use a PCB inside. You cannot use them for many tasks that have a device housing preventing a larger connector type like this. Switch to switch connections and the back port of a PC are likely not an issue, but just about anything else might be. That said, these field termination plugs are ideal for creating highly reliable backbone switch to switch or router to switch style links using solid copper Ethernet. As you get past 50 feet, patch cords may not work well or at all due to the typically thinner stranded copper conductors they use. 50 feet is the limit for 28AWG stranded copper patch cords, and 279 feet is the limit for 24AWG stranded copper patch cords. 26AWG will get you in the 220 foot range. Thus, if you need a male ended patch cord of high reliability that is extra long (and must use solid copper) then field termination plugs are the way to go. You just have to pick your battles, like with any install. Hope this helps!
What you describe is the simplest example of an Ethernet channel. It works great and always will. If you ever need to install permanent Ethernet cabling in your home or business, we are standing by to help.
This is a great explanation! Thank you, Sr.! Could you please explain me how does the bandwidth matter on data speed transfer? Since cat 5e and 6 work with up to 1 Gbps, but the former covers 100 MHz and the latter 250 MHz. Greetings from Mexico!
Hello Alejandro! Greetings back from the USA. Higher frequencies are required to increase the data capacity of the cable and termination hardware in question in order to operate reliably. These increased data capacities are separated by Category. So, 100 MHz covers Cat5e up to 1 Gbp/s. 250 MHz covers Cat6 up to 1 Gbp/s and 10 Gbp/s up to short distances. 500 MHz covers Cat6A up to 10 Gbp/s to the full distance Ethernet can run. These frequencies are dictated by ANSI/TIA and ISO. As for extended frequencies, higher frequencies are useful when talking about NBASE-T (2.5GBASE-T and 5GBASE-T). In the case of Cat5e, the cable and termination hardware should achieve 156 MHz to carry 2.5 Gbp/s. In the case of Cat6 the cable and termination hardware should achieve 312 MHz to carry 5 Gbp/s. There are no extended frequencies for Cat6A, so 500 MHz is sufficient.
@@trueCABLE I appreciate the information you just gave me! I believe bandwidth requires a more profound study. I'd like to understand more about it, since I think it's important to comprehend the core of data transfer speeds and being able to choose the correct cable + connector to avoid latency problems, right? Do you know, by any means, a good website where I can find all this information? Maybe your channel has the answer, but I don't know. Greetings!
@@alro7779 Hello Alejandro! The phenomenon of more information carrying capacity with higher frequency is an electrical concept. There is plenty of generic information around it not necessarily related to Ethernet cable. As to matching the correct cable to the correct termination hardware, the Cable Academy found at our website provides a wealth of information. See website link in the description. Enjoy!
I just need something clarified for me. On each end of the cable run is a keystone jack. On one end a patch cable is connected. Does or can the keystone on other end connect with a wall plate to serve as a wall jack?
Hello! That’s absolutely correct. Both ends of a permanent link (using in-wall solid copper cable) terminate in keystone jacks. At the head end of the installation, where the switches are located, you mount one keystone jack into a patch panel. At the remote outlet, you mount the other keystone jack into a wall plate. Then, you connect patch cords on both ends, and this setup is referred to as the channel.
I am so glad you mentioned the solid copper cable. I had originally placed an order the for cat6 Ethernet without realizing that some is copper clad aluminum and not suitable for POE. I was able to get that order cancelled and order the pure copper. Thank you.
@@craig2535 Hello! You are welcome. By purchasing solid copper Ethernet, you just saved yourself from a lot of hassles (during installation and down the line). I am glad our content was helpful in guiding you to the correct choice. PS - I would like to add that CCA is suitable for a clothesline and not much else. Not only is it no good with PoE, but it also has significant DC resistance unbalance issues that won't permit reliable and consistent data transmission.
I have a network in a campground, Pole mounted AP's, and switches inside weather proof ventilated boxes. I keep getting arcs/shorts from the POE and its causing switch ports to cook out. Any tips? I though about having a punch down patch panel.
Hello! That sounds bad! I would recommend you take a more structured approach to this. Terminate keystone > keystone (or patch panel to keystone) and then use factory-made pre-terminated patch cords to complete the overall connection. Obviously, the keystone/hardware/etc. mounted outside needs to be moistureproof (including from humidity). See if that resolves it.
@@haywoodjablome440 Hello and trueCABLE seconds that! Gas discharge tube ESD protectors are a great idea for copper twisted pair Ethernet that runs outside, as it is more subject to the issue. This especially applies to any aerial installation, which we blanket recommend the use of gas discharge tube protectors with.
I just terminated my 23AWG CAT6 network cables with 24AWG CAT5e/6 connectors (RJ-45). I didn't have any fitment issues, but now I'm wondering if I'll only get CAT5e performance?
You are absolutely correct. It is technically called a 8P8C modular plug. The "RJ45" term has unfortunately stuck with us and it continues being used, quite often incorrectly. Therefore I will use the two terms interchangeably to refer to the same thing, knowing full well it is actually a "8P8C" connector. I will often put it like this "8P8C plug, aka RJ45" but sometimes I don't put it like that. I try and catch myself when I can. The problem is if I refer to it strictly as a "8P8C modular plug" and never use the term "RJ45" many folks that are not aware of the nuances will have difficulty understanding what I am talking about. It is a double edged sword
@@trueCABLE ok The history I heard was that RJ45 was used a long time ago in offices by the telephone co. Which was called the RJ45. So along comes Ethernet and the used the exact same connector and the RJ45 stuck because it looked the same.
@@wdooley62 Hello William! Yeah, I have heard that one too. There are several stories out there floating around about how the term "RJ45" sort of stuck. They are probably ALL true to some extent or another!
Glad we could introduce you to the world of field termination plugs! If you want to learn more, check out our blog! www.truecable.com/blogs/cable-academy/choosing-the-right-termination-keystone-jack-vs-rj45-connector-vs-field-termination-plug
Great question! For any of the unshielded RJ45 connectors there should be little to no issue. The same cannot be said for our Cat6/6A Shielded Passthrough plug (external ground), which has been specifically tweaked to work with our trueCRIMP - All in One Crimp and Termination tool --> www.truecable.com/products/all-in-one-crimp-and-termination-tool.
Hello Jeroen! I believe you are referring to the tool-less patch panel. We don't sell those (yet) but Amazon is a great source. I have had good experiences with TrendNET and TrippLite patch panels.
Thanks for the kudos Chris! Don't forget to check out our Cable Academy on our site. There are over 150 blogs where these videos are embedded with much more detail. We typically shoot a video in addition to written blogs with very close-up photos.
Hi Don, I'm looking for cat6 patch cables to connect from my patch panel to switch. Some ports will be running just data and some POE++. I'm having the hardest time finding Cat6 patch cables that are 23awg. They are all 24awg and up! Will 24awg patch cables at 0.5ft length from the switch to patch panel cause any issues or is that fine at that length? Thanks once again!
Hello Richard! Most patch cords are 24AWG or 26AWG or 28AWG with the vast majority of them being 26AWG. 24AWG stranded copper patch cords are an excellent choice. In fact, per the standard, if you want to achieve the full 328 foot channel length you can have 295 feet of solid copper (22 to 24AWG) with two 16.5 foot patch cords at both ends (24 AWG patch cords are assumed in the 328 foot figure, FYI). This provides 33 feet of 24AWG patch cord in total. If you are using 26AWG you must derate to 13 feet max per patch cord, reducing your maximum channel length to 322 feet. If you are using 28AWG you must derate to 10 feet max per patch cord, reducing your maximum channel length to 318 feet. It does not matter if PoE is part of the equation or not. At 0.50 foot with 24AWG you are doing great, and won't have any issues assuming the patch cord is good quality.
Hello, CRAFT NET! Nope, stick with T568B on both sides. You don't want to use a cross-over type termination unless you specifically require it. 99.9% of the time, you don't.
Doubt if this explanation is precise. Especially when he talks about cat6A cable. There are special cat6 plugs, that are red and that have wires sitting not in line in the plug as standard width of the cat5 plug can not accomodate thicker cat6 wire. Wires are inserted with the help of a special plastic insert that lines every odd wire slightly above even wires thus giving space for thicker wires to fit in standard plug width.
Hello obj! We carry the type of RJ45 (8P8C) plug you are referring to. It is called a "standard load-bar" style plug and it does stagger the conductors which does help with Cat6A NEXT (at the connector) performance when pushed to 500 MHz. When a 8P8C plug is absolutely required due to installation constraints, we recommend the load bar stagger plug for our Cat6A U/UTP cables -- but only when used at a single end for a MPTL run (keystone > plug for PoE devices). That said, having a IDC style termination such as a patch panel or keystone at the other end is critical to holding up cable performance and especially for achieving PASS on a Certification device. Solid copper Ethernet insulated conductor plastic insulation can and does have a tolerance that varies from lot to lot, spool to spool, and even along the SAME spool. This will affect NEXT and Return Loss at what would otherwise be a very well fitted 8P8C connector. This phenomenon does not occur with Category rated IDC style terminations (keystone, patch panel, field term plug). If you attempt to create a patch cord (defined as a 8P8C plug at both ends) with solid copper Ethernet you double your chances of creating a sub-par cable and it takes a Fluke DSX-8000 with PCA adapters to sort it out. Since most people don't have $13K - $15K to drop on such a device (nor the training to use one) we defer to the safer route which is using IDC style terminations for bulk cable and then use factory pre-terminated and tested patch cord for any necessary patching.
Don...great information however the presentation could be improved. Focus on the product, not the presenter. For example, leave these connectors on the table, avoid unnecessary movement and use a pointing tool to highlight the features, i.e., do close-up shots. Just waving the connectors around in the hand conveys nothing. Also remember not everyone is doing this as a career. Some are just DIY folks who want to address their home system. If this information was useful for you, please let me know.
DC, thank you for your comment! We hear you and appreciate all the feedback. Our specialty is low voltage supply and we are still perfecting our videography every day! We create multiple styles of content to help accommodate all types of learners. Please feel free to visit our Cable Academy for blogs and close-up images. We will continue to take all feedback we receive and implement it in the future where we can.
1:22 I found the identity disorder joke funny, but also grim - please don't do that again. So. 90 meters should be the longest permanent link run, to allow for up to 5 meter patch runs on either end?
I am glad you found the comment humorous. No offense intended upon anyone! I can also assure you that no field termination plugs were harmed during the making of this video :>) As to the question you had...yes, 90 meters (295 feet) is the maximum length for a permanent link (subject to derating due to ambient temps above 68 deg F). 16.5 feet (5 meters approximately) is allowable for each patch cord at either side assuming said patch cord is 24 AWG stranded. 26 AWG stranded derates this to 14 feet per patch cord. 28 AWG stranded derates this to 10 feet per patch cord.
I screwed up and ordered cat6 shielded crimping plugs from Amazon instead of cat5e shielded. They are passed through which I have the pass through crimping cutter for can I still use them on my cat 5e shielded cable
Hello Mortland! The answer is: Maybe. The "Category" of the 8P8C (aka RJ45) plug is irrelevant since they don't actually have a Category on them. When a manufacturer puts a "Category" on the bag of RJ45 8P8C plugs it is their BEST GUESS of what cable is likely to fit, or they specifically tested them with their own brand of cable that they know works (like trueCABLE does). What matters for RJ45 8P8C plugs is fitment (insulated conductor diameter and cable jacket overall diameter). The conductor AWG gauge is not the critical deciding factor here unless you are working with Ethernet with conductors outside of 23 to 24AWG. You will need to find the specs for the plug AND cable in question and see if they match up. We can help you on that one! See this blog right here: www.truecable.com/blogs/cable-academy/selecting-the-correct-connector.
Hello and that is a great question. For any of the unshielded RJ45 connectors there should be little to no issue. The same cannot be said for our Cat6/6A Shielded Passthrough plug (external ground), which has been specifically tweaked to work with our brand AIO crimper.
Great video. Helped me with an upcoming DIY home network upgrade.
Hello Sylvia! We are glad to hear this video helped with selecting the correct and best performing terminations for your structured cabling system. We would love to hear the outcome when you are finished with your project!
Excellent video. I've been in IT for 25 years, and I had no idea these things made any sort of difference. Thank you!
Hello and thanks for leaving a comment! There was a time when I similarly did not fully realize the differences, but after getting multiple BICSI certifications and having access to a Fluke DSX-8000 to do "what-if" testing I was able to share this information. I am glad you found it enlightening
Honestly bro, I truly appreciate the content you and TrueCABLE put out. This was one of the most real, straight forward and informative videos I've seen on terminating. This will be kept in mind for the rest of my career. I'm a wannabe professional and y'all are bringing me closer to my goal. MAD RESPECT!!
Hey David!! Thank you for taking the time to watch our content and support trueCABLE. We spend a lot of time creating content in hopes to help and inspire individuals like yourself. Your comment means so much to us and was a great reminder of why we do what we do. Please let us know if we can help in any way along your networking journey. We are always happy to help :)
I ran cable through my house so I could have wired connections to all my tvs from router. I used keystone jacks and purchase patch cables to go from jacks to device. Not that involved and it works great!! Thanks for your video.
Hello Edward! That is the way to do it. Great job and I am glad your install is performing well.
This video is 100% on point.
When I come into a new customer so many times I see the crap job the previous cable installer did by terminating the MDF end in a rj45.
One of the first jobs we do is replace the RJ45s with a proper keystone solution
Hey Ronald! 100% correct. The quickest way to ruin a good structured cabling system is hand terminating RJ45s in all the wrong places!
Thank you for this video. I'm planning to run some cat6a cable from my living room into the basement which I was going to terminate with regular rj45 connectors. I've now ordered some proper keystone tool-less connectors. It's only going to be supporting a one gig internet speed but at least it will be future proof!
Hello! You are welcome and you are making a VERY wise choice. You will find that this solution will serve you way better! Please subscribe to our channel if you have not done so yet, we have quite a bit of upcoming videos we just shot we think you would enjoy!
I'm actually having issues with 10GbE on one of the longer runs connected to my windows machine. I'm going to re-terminate into keystones and see if that improves my situation. Love these videos!
Hello Sean! You will likely see a massive improvement. Keystones at both ends will do a lot for performance. Just be sure to keep permanent links (jack to jack) to 295 feet or less and adjust for ambient temperature as well. As temps go above 68 degrees F, your runs get SHORTER. For patch cords, don't use excessively long ones to patch into your permanent link. Per the spec, you have a total of 33 feet (accounting for both sides) to work with and that is assuming 24AWG. That drops to 26 feet for 26AWG and 20 feet total for 28AWG. For a chart that goes over complete calculation of a permanent link + patch cords (overall channel) see here: www.truecable.com/blogs/cable-academy/calculating-ethernet-cable-overall-channel-length-for-success.
What issues were you having?
@@Saturn2888 Hello! Failure to Certify on my cable analyzer was the primary issue. Best results are achieved with IDC (insulation displacement contact) terminations such as keystone jacks that punch down or are "toolless".
My whole home network is a patchpanel on one end and cheap plugs (5 bucks for 50pcs or something like that) on the other, and I gotta say it’s not that bad. Connected to a TV, access points etc. works like a charm, but every few months I have to replace the connector on my PCs cable because the conductors inside break from movement. (And by movement I mean turning it around to connect USB, or a second display, or opening the case to clean dust, not moving the PC to a different room.)
Hello! The whole punch down or keystone patch panel > RJ45 type link is known as MPTL or Modular Plug Terminated Link. This is a valid termination strategy, assuming you don't move the cable around too much. It is mean for WiFi APs and PoE cameras, etc. That said, the plug side should not be breaking THAT easy unless you opted for CCA conductor cable? CCA conductors are much more brittle. Aside from that, if you want to increase reliability of your cabling connections I would terminate the raw Ethernet to keystone jacks and mount them into single or dual port surface mount boxes. Then use stranded copper patch cords from the surface mount box to your PC and the like. The solid copper conductor cable will suffer minimal/no movement and stranded copper patch cords are meant to be plugged and unplugged and moved around without suffering damage. I hope that helps!
@@trueCABLE Yeah I know that I should go with jacks in the walls, this was supposed to be temporary and then I never touched it again. Bought some cheap CCA outdoor cable since I only needed a few 100Mbit runs for my cameras, but it was fine with gigabit so I made temporary runs to my PC, console etc. and here I am years later with those not so temporary connections still in place.
@@littl3spy Hello and I am glad to hear your not so temporary install is still working OK. We stand ready to help get you the gear you need when that CCA starts to become a problem!
Best video out there! I only have 1 question - What is all this confusion about connector types for wire/solid core/universal. You know, 2/3 pronged, angle pronged. What to buy for home use and all my cables?!
Hello! 2 prong 8P8C plugs are for stranded copper conductor Ethernet. 3 prong 8P8C plugs are for stranded and solid. I guess you could call the 3 prong version "universal" but that is a misnomer. 8P8C plugs are not, in any way, universal as they are so fitment dependent on the insulated conductor diameter and cable jacket OD anyway. I would purchase the 3 prong version in any case.
Very interesting from a newly-interested DIY-er. I'm about to drop new lines in some rooms as I'm tired of the lagging WiFi on certain parts of the house. I just ordered your 500 FT Cat6 rather than your Cat6A after watching your honest opinion about a recent video you produced regarding the differences between the two. Thank you for the education as I was initially looking into Cat7! Can you elaborate a bit more as to what you meant regarding Cat6 being one of the "most versatile cables on the planet" after the newer NBASE-T protocol?
Hello and thanks for your question! You were right to ditch Cat7. It is no better than Cat6A and both are rated to 10G up to 328 feet. Cat7 is also not a ANSI/TIA recognized Category. Cat6 is extremely versatile because it is easy to run and bends tighter than Cat6A, plus it can reach 10G at 120 feet or less even when in a larger cable bundles. Due to 23 AWG conductors, it also handles PoE very well. The new(er) NBASE-T protocols (2.5GBASE-T and 5GBASE-T) also operate on Cat6 up to 328 feet without issues. Finally, add to the mix that Cat6 is less expensive and uses less expensive keystone jacks and you end up with a very versatile cable.
Thanks Don for the high quality content! What cable config do you recommend from modem to switch that would support 10 GbE? Cat6A unshielded with field termination plugs on both sides? Or?
(Its unfortunate that trueCABLE doesn't sell patch cables)
Hey Mark! You are welcome. We have patch cables coming, but they are still at least 90 days out. As for a high speed & high reliability Cat6A patch cable connection between modem to switch I would definitely be using that unshielded Cat6A cable with the Cat6A Unshielded Field Term Plugs on both ends. This is critical for solid copper conductors! You won't regret going this direction.
Great video! Useful information.
We are glad you enjoy our content!
So I've always been in the "No hand-crimped RJ45!!" group for many years, having experienced countless imperfect terminations and even cables that are fine at first would tend to fail in a few months of they get wiggled or bumped much.
I was recently introduced to passthrough 8P8C connectors, where the individual conductors actually protrude from the front of the housing and get trimmed when your crimp it. This method would seem to resolve all of the most common imperfections I used to see (conductors weren't cut perfectly straight, stripped too long/short and the jacket isn't being held properly by the housing when crimped, etc). I'm wondering if you have any experience or comment on these.
I'm about to wire up a house with cat6 (unshielded), and currently it's only going to be gigabit but I might want to make a few backhaul lines 10Gb in future. One end will be punched down to a Keystone, do you think that would be good enough even if the other end is crimped? The runs will only be maybe 30-50ft.
Hello and thanks for your comment. I have found the root of the issue to be the way RJ45 8P8C plugs hold the conductor, which applies to pass through and non passthrough style 8P8C plugs. Your better experience with those pass through plugs was likely due to them being a better fit for your particular cable as opposed to the fact they were passthrough. Although there are some valid use cases for putting 8P8C RJ45 plugs onto solid copper Ethernet (MPTL runs pushing PoE to an end point device that requires PoE for example) I strongly suggest IDC style terminations--especially for cabling that will be called upon to push 10GBASE-T. This means your original thought of keystones and patch panels is still the way to go. Another overlooked IDC style of termination is the field termination plug, which give you a male plug end but terminates largely like a tool-less keystone jack and has a PCB inside helping to impedance match the cable run.
Great video. Thanks for creating it. Can I ask for a little more clarity please as far as when you mention best connection…. I understand the runs through the house to faceplates or patch panel would be best to be terminated with keystone jacks. Then from switch (POE) or otherwise to patch panel or wall plate those cables should terminated with field plugs. Where I lose clarity is what connection to 1) POE cameras 2) modem/router 3) computer/ps5/cable box/smart tv etc? Are those the RJ45 terminations or should those also be field plugs unless they don’t fit the device being connected? I am not talking office/commercial use. I am talking DIY through my home for best connection to everything and from internet provider. It seems that every video out there is for pass thru rj45 terminations. It seems like with Cat6 that is the “RUclips” ongoing recommendation :). Thx
Hello! Generally speaking, once the solid copper permanent links are installed (patch panel to keystone to keystone to keystone) then you should patch into them with factory pre-terminated patch cable of the same Category (or higher) as your solid copper links. If you are constructing a MPTL run, which is patch panel or keystone to male plug end the best way is to a field termination plug unless it won't fit in the end point device. In that case you should use the RJ45 8P8C plug as you already surmised. Same room connections like from cable modem to router should also be done with a factory pre-terminated patch cable.
Can I buy burried cables with proper ens on it already? I have shop want to extend 6a to (dual runs) . About 150ft. If I can do you do custom lengths?
Hello! I would strongly suggest buying a 500ft spool of our Cat6A Unshielded Direct Burial cable and then terminating both sides of both runs to Cat6A Unshielded Tool-less keystone jacks. You will need 4 keystones. Mount the keystones in wall plates in your home and then in your shop. You can buy two port wall plates so both runs come to the same spot in both structures. Finish up with two factory pre-made Cat6A patch cords on both sides to the destination devices. This method will give you flexibility. The permanent part of the install will have the cable buried and mounted in a fixed location in both structures. You then have the flexibility to use different lengths of patch cords on both sides if your equipment happens to move around inside one or both structures. Considering your permanent runs are only 150 feet each, you have a lot of flexibility on how long the patch cords can be on both sides (combined length). You will have to be aware of the copper gauge of the patch cords and be prepared to trade length for thinner gauges, though. Here is a blog and video that will tell you how to calculate it properly: www.truecable.com/blogs/cable-academy/calculating-ethernet-cable-overall-channel-length-for-success. Be sure to watch the video AND read the blog because the written blog has lots of tables and examples.
I'm in the UK, I think both the layman and the DIYer with some knowledge will have little use for greater than 1 GigaBit for quite a while, so I'm just trying to figure out your mindset wrt not recommending the basic gigabit stuff. Is it purely from the business point of view that you'll get fewer edge case failures and will be future-proofed?
I work in schools, I am a graduate in networking, and I've never used anything past 8P8C plugs with copper. For the 10GBics we have fiber runs from cab to cab.
However, we're commissioning a new school, and I think government regs are requiring 2.5Gbe capable cabling moving forward. So it will be interesting if we need to start using field-termination-connectiors with impedance matching etc for patching APs in etc?
Anyway, my first video of yours, liked all aspects of it. Thank you.
Hello Miff! Howdy from the USA. I agree that the vast majority of consumers will be on 1G for quite some time to come. That said, I have seen the market moving steadily towards 2.5G in the home (computer motherboards, cable modems, and some Ethernet switches). 5G and 10G are typically seen in commercial settings at the present, but there is the odd homeowner running those speeds for various reasons (NAS, etc.). 8P8C plugs, no matter the Category or speed, are a potential problem point from a mechanical (and therefore electrical) standpoint due to the extreme degree of sensitivity to proper fitment. If you get the fitment wrong (insulated conductor diameter, or cable overall thickness) your 8P8C plugs are going to be the source of headaches. IDC terminations (keystones, field termination plugs, etc.) are much less fitment sensitive and eliminate a possible major point of failure from your LAN. I recommend keystones and field termination plugs where possible not only for the path of least issues, but also for their ability to allow your structured cabling system to reach its maximum potential, and as speeds increase over time this will become more of a factor. Of course, there are times when 8P8C plugs MUST be used due to installation limitations like tight PoE WiFi AP and camera housings, but use of 8P8Cs on solid copper Ethernet should be kept at a minimum. Otherwise, leave the 8P8C plugs to factory pre-terminated and tested patch cords. Thank you for watching, we are happy to have you here!
Really appreciate the excellent video. I had 2000 Mbps fiber installed and the technician used 5e cable and standard RJ45 connectors. The computer end uses a USB-C adapter to a MacBook. Should I replace both connectors with field term plugs? I do receive 2-2.3 Mbps download speeds but the slightest move of the cable cuts signal out.
Hey RK! Thanks for the kudos.
Cat5e can handle 2.5Gb/s via NBASE-T so you can remain on Cat5e if you have no future plans to increase speed. If you intend to start stringing new cable then I would opt for solid copper Cat6A with Cat6A keystones for the permanent runs + Cat6A factory made patch cords to patch into the solid copper runs. This would be best for future proofing since you are likely to buy into 10Gb/s at some point -- judging based upon how fast you are going now.
As an aside, if the movement of cable causes loss of signal this means either the cable is bad or one of the terminations is bad. You will have to start replacing patch cables, etc. to run down what it is. Hopefully it is not the USB-C port on the MacBook! Given I don't know how your installation looks that is about the best advice I can give right now. This is something that would require me to stand there and troubleshoot.
@@trueCABLE Thank you very much for detailed reply. It appears to be the cheap plastic plug causing the interruption when moved.
Great information! Thank you!
We have your back always!
Great content. One question, based on the products on your website, why would I buy a CAT 5E connector instead of just getting a CAT6/6A connector?
Hello! When it comes to Category rated items like keystone jacks, you can use a higher rated connector than the cable you are using (but not lower). The reason for not doing that is due to cost, and it does not get you more performance since the limiting factor is the lowest Category rated component in the chain. Cat6A keystone jacks are much more expensive than Cat5e, as well. As for 8P8C plugs (aka RJ45) it is not a matter of Category but a matter of fitment. RJ45 plugs don't have a Category, technically speaking. Hope this helps!
I'm wondering, how would you transition between cable jacket types. I'm planning to run CAT 6a burial and then in wall, how would I transition between the burial cable and riser cable retaining a good signal? (Planning to make the transition in a junction box attached to the wall outside)
Awesome video, so informative along with the blog on the website!!!!
Hello Chad! The best way to transition from outdoor to indoor cable is with 110 punch down splice block. You might have trouble finding a Cat6A one, however. Cat6 and Cat5e are very common. Secondarily, the next best way to preserve performance would be with Cat6A field termination plugs, which we carry. Terminate the end of the outdoor cable coming inside with a field termination plug and then use a component rated Cat6A coupler (which we also carry) in between. Terminate the end of the indoor cable going to the coupler with a field termination plug as well. The end of the cable that reaches your switch area should be terminated to a keystone jack or yet another field termination plug if you are not using a patch panel. At no point should you use a RJ45 8P8C plug for this task. Thanks for the kudos on our content!
Thanks for this video now I finally understand how it works 👍
You are welcome! Thanks for stopping by and watching our content!
Do you have any videos on mini 4 rooms Ofice pbx telephone termination using keystone jack good job greetings from Ghana thanks for your info
Hello and greetings from the USA! As to your question: Sorry, no. trueCABLE's focus is solely on Ethernet Category LAN cable (Cat5e and higher) and coaxial cable at this time. We have no plans to carry equipment for, or produce content around, PBX telephony topics.
respect to this pro!!!
Respect back to you as well, sir! Glad you found the content useful.
Is this primarily an issue with longer runs? I expect most of my runs to be well under 100 feet, and I only need 1GB performance.
Hello Jollyprez! Run length is not relevant. In fact, the shorter the run the more likely errors will show up due to poor termination performance due to stronger reflections back and forth in the cable. That is why IDC connections (keystones, field termination plugs) are so valuable. They impedance match your run and far more mechanically (therefore electrically) stable. If you need only 1G performance, then 8P8C connectors are still viable but at the same time I still recommend caution and being sure you are using plugs and cable that have been tested and validated together. Don't mix brands, in other words. There are a lot of things that can go wrong with 8P8C connectors terminated to solid copper Ethernet and you want to control as many variables as possible. One thing I have found is that the cheaper you go on your terminations, the need for an advanced tester like a Fluke LinkIQ intensifies!
I had no idea how important keystones are before watching this video. It was very informative, thank you!
Could you please answer a little question, tho?
Let's say I run shielded cables from a shielded patch panel to keystone jacks on the walls.
If the cable is bound to the patch panel, do the keystone jacks (or RJ45 Connectors) on the wall need to be shielded keystone jacks as well?
There is nowhere to bind them at walls anyway, even if I wanted to.
Also, they are VERY expensive in Brazil, so I would really appreciate the money I'd save, but I want to make a proper installation.
Another question if I may, are cat 6 keystones compatible with 23AWG Cat6A cables? In this case, it's not about the money, but a matter of availability, unfortunately. I'm having trouble finding more cat 6A connectors at the local stores, I can only ship them from far away =/
It is better to use shielded hardware at both ends of your permanent link. Termination to shielded hardware bonds the shield, drain wire, and connector together, and doing this at both ends provides a more robust system. However, using an unshielded jack at one end will still work, including the shield if it is grounded at the other end. Sometimes, this is done to avoid the possibility of a ground loop in the shield circuit.
If the Cat6 jacks will fit properly to the Cat6A cable conductors, you may use them, but performance will be constrained to Cat6 levels. The thing to watch out for is the diameter of the insulation on the conductors. Depending on the manufacturer, the insulation might be larger on the Cat6A cable. If the conductors punch-down properly without having to force the insulation to go in, then it should work fine.
@@trueCABLE Crystal clear, thank you!
@@alexsanderprogramador Glad we were able to help out!
Does the TrueCABLE Cat6A Toolless Field Termination Plug, Shielded (STP), PoE++ (4PPoE), TAA Compliant fit properly when used with a TP-Link 10Gb switch? Specifically, is there enough space to use all ports side by side given the larger size of these plugs? Any insights or experiences would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Hello! Yup, no problem. The side by side fitment on high density switches is no issue. I have tested that, and our field termination plugs were designed with that in mind. The issue you might run into with field termination plugs is due to the length, primarily.
Hello guys!
Looking into upgrading my home cabling with Cat6a, I'm currently running 3 routers as wired APs.
This is an old house so it all has to be ran outside, so I will be using shielded cabling, but was thinking into doing a combination of Field Term plugs on one end and regular shielded Rj45 on the other.
Would this be as reliable as doing keystone/Rj45?
Like I said, I won't be able to do keystones so I was thinking this would be the next best thing.
Hope you can help me out!
Hey Axel! Yup, that would be as performant as using keystones > RJ45s. The Field Termination plug is also a component rated and impedance matching Category rated device, so it does a lot for cable performance. Obviously, a field term at both ends is even better IF you can get away with using a larger style termination. If you do get forced into using shielded RJ45s on solid copper, just be super careful and precise about how you terminate them. If you are using our Cat6/6A Shielded Pass Through RJ45 on our shielded Cat6A, then there is very detailed and up-to-date instructions found here: www.truecable.com/blogs/cable-academy/how-to-terminate-a-shielded-cat6-6a-external-ground-pass-through-rj45-connector.
Are using coupler patch panel bad for cat6a/10gbps networks?
I have multiple 2.5Gbps Unifi Ap’s connected back to the coupler patch panel (Rj45 at both ends of the cable), i did this for multiple installations with no problems.
But suddenly have issues maintaining 2.5Gbps FDX on a different place.
Hello! You discovered what many people have or will soon. LAN speeds are increasing, with 2.5G becoming common. Anyone using a coupler with questionable quality factory made patch cords or hand-terminated solid copper Ethernet (using RJ45s) is at high risk for issues. Up until now, 1G networks have been relatively tolerant of coupler use assuming a certain minimum level of quality and good workmanship. Even then, though, coupler use is a gamble. To answer your question more directly: It is a BAD idea to design a permanent installation with keystone jack couplers from the get go. TIA, BICSI, and other industry organizations saw this coming and don't recommend you use couplers at all. trueCABLE modifies this recommendation a bit by indicating that if you are using pre-Certified patch cords (Certified, NOT "verified"), then it is acceptable to use a single coupler in a channel assuming you don't need to Certify the installation after completion and present test results to a customer. The installation may not fully pass TIA performance testing which is quite strict and severe, although it may work well enough for some installations. I generally think of couplers as for "oops" moments and temporary until I get the issue corrected via cable replacement. So, if you are going to use couplers at all it should be with factory made, pre-TIA Certified patch cords and when you need to connect two of them together when one of the patch cords is too short to make the connection. Constructing a LAN with hand terminated RJ45s on solid copper Ethernet cable (problematic in of itself) AND couplers gives you a worst case scenario and is a recipe for disaster. You may wish to take a look at our Cable Academy at trueCABLE.com as we have extensive blogs written about how many couplers is too many and the best way to terminate Ethernet.
Thanks. Great video.
You are welcome! We are glad you enjoyed the content.
I wish I had seen this before I started my own networking project... I also read the article on your site, and I had a question: is there a particular reason you don't show a cable with Field plugs on both ends?
I'm building a series of outdoor cat6 channels between daisy-chained PoE repeaters to reach a Point-to-point wifi AP ~1100' away. Each channel is under 300', but even so, each one in the system reduces performance considerably.
Is it likely that switching from pass-thru RJ45's to field plugs would make the difference? Can I use field plugs with PoE? I'm aware Im pushing it, but hopefully with the right parts I can make it work.
Hello! I am glad you found our site and video! Not showing a cable with a Field Termination Plug at both ends was an oversight. Obviously, this is a superior way of way of creating a patch cable and this type of Field Term > Field Term cable is known as a Direct Attach Cable. You can most certainly use this strategy, and it will give you much better performance. As for PoE--absolutely! Our Field Termination Plugs easily handle 100W PoE. The reason you have seen performance degradation with RJ45s is likely due to multiple factors with the two biggest being fitment and mechanical stability. I would definitely use Field Termination Plugs at both ends of the individual runs if that is an option for you. Given that Field Termination Plugs are physically larger than RJ45s, that could be a factor in whether you use them throughout your installation as not all outdoor Ethernet switches with their weatherproof housings will accept Field Termination Plugs.
@trueCABLE thank you! I just went ahead and ordered some of your shielded field termination plugs through Amazon. Once I get them hooked up, I'll be sharing my results on my techier channel: @TheKludge4315
@@DerrangedGadgeteer Thanks and we look forward to your video. Also, I would recommend you pick up a pair of parallel crimping pliers (trueCLOSE). Here is the link to the written blog with embedded video which will give you tips on the nuances of these field termination plugs: www.truecable.com/blogs/cable-academy/how-to-terminate-a-cat6a-shielded-field-term-plug. Be sure to follow the video and written instructions closely! Both bring something to the table.
Sounds like you don't recommend using Ethernet jack couplers on patch panels? Or do those have chips inside? I'm assuming the cheap Chinese ones do not, but I'm not sure. I've been looking for a good brand that provides RJ45 couplers for my patch panel because it's so hard to pull out keystone jacks. If it was easier, I'd simply use punch-down keystone jacks instead.
My issue is if I have to swap the patch panel or reconfigure the wires, it's gonna be nearly impossible if I can get the keystone jacks outta there.
My drops are all punch-down keystone jacks, it's only the ones in my network closet that are RJ45. I'm up for making them punch-down if it's more reliable somehow. The patch cable itself is a Monoprice Slimrun 6" CAT6a.
Hello! Ethernet jack couplers, such as our keystone couplers, can be used in a patch panel. We would recommend keeping the use to no more than two couplers per channel. The main issue with couplers is the quality of the patch cords, not the couplers. Our couplers are impedance matching and component rated (they have PCBs inside, but then all couplers and keystones do) so if you intend to go this route use the highest quality keystone coupler you can get (again, such as ours but there are others) and be sure to use component rated patch cords. We sell the patch cords, but only up to 25ft. You can obtain component rated patch cords from CommScope and Belden as well. They cost more, but you want to keep the potential issues and points of failure to a minimum. That all said, the correct way of installing Ethernet is to use solid copper Category rated Ethernet cable for in-wall permanent cabling and punch down type terminations at both ends. A solid copper permanent link will give you the best performance and lengths. At both ends of the permanent link you would complete your connections with male patch cords. That is going to be the least problematic way, and gets around the issues of stranded copper being used throughout your installation which poses its own issues (maximum lengths being the main one).
@@trueCABLE great! I picked up RJ45 keystone couplers from your website and a bunch of other color punch-down ones for when I move. Punch-down are a pain to install in a small server closet with low clearance.
I also grabbed your thin 1' patch cables. I was using the Monoprice colored ones (I like the colors), but I've had issues.
I've been pushing 10Gb in spots, so this matters. I also used Monoprice CAT6 solid core in my house when I wired it up years ago, but I didn't realize the RJ45 connectors could cause issues.
Thankfully, all my drops are keystone punch-down or toolless.
@@Saturn2888 Hello again! That is great. I hope you like our patch cords. I certainly do, and I am hard to please. You won't have any performance issues with them, I can assure you. I guarantee it, actually. And yes, the source of many problems with Ethernet cable installations is improper installation (damage to) Ethernet or hand terminated 8P8C (aka RJ45) connectors on solid copper Ethernet You are correct in that patch cords that have not been properly CERTIFIED (not merely verified) will cause problems, as you discovered. I have test data that backs you up, and I will be doing some expose stuff coming up in the near future that will basically throw the entire patch cord market (imported patch cords for the most part) right under the bus. Stay tuned!
@@trueCABLE that's great! Exactly what I want to see!
@@trueCABLE I've been thinking about this all day. The patch cables I bought from TrueCABLE are 1' each. They're for patch panels in my rack.
I thought it was weird when you said 25' patch cables. I have a bunch of Monoprice "thick" CAT6 cables that I use to connect devices throughout my house from the wall. Now I'm wondering if even those are problematic. For 1Gb, no issue. For 10Gb? That's where I have weird inconsistent issues.
There are so many factors that I'm starting to wonder where in the chain I'm having issues with 10Gb+.
I have:
1. Switch.
2. SFP+ (or SFP28 fiber) adapter.
3. 1' Patch cable.
4. Keystone jack.
5. Another cable either punched into the keystone or RJ45.
6. A keystone at the other end punched into a connector dropped (but funneled up through the basement) into a room.
7. A longer patch cable to a PC or other device.
8. Mellanox ConnectX-6 card in my PC.
9. 4x PCIe 4.0 slot on my motherboard.
It's so many pieces where something could be wrong. A cable tester like you have or a video where you test cables could greatly assist me in figuring out why sometimes the PCs boot up and get no Ethernet connection until I unplug the SFP+ adapter or why it could potentially lose connection altogether or why my fiber isn't getting a good signal to my PC and why it's fine to my NAS.
I don't have 4-5 other devices and cable types to test with, so it's hard to get a read on what exactly is wrong when troubleshooting especially because I lack the tools to do so.
I'm in Kansas City too. Is it possible I could bring some gear to your location and see how it tests to narrow down some issues? If my Ethernet and Fiber patch cables really are bad for 10Gb, I need to buy a new batch of TrueCABLE cables instead.
As a home/diyer/enthusiast, I think I'm missing some basic element here, so you can use something other than rj45 to plug into devices? You mentioned some can't accept these though; how do you know which ones? I don't think I've ever seen one of these in the wild; why aren't they more common? What's the circumstance under which I should use these, just whenever possible? Outdoor only? Long runs (I didn't understand the part about 300ft in the video)
Hello! I fully understand the confusion. Field termination plugs terminate like a tool-less keystone jack and are very high performing, but have a side on them that is compatible with RJ45 device ports at the same time. Essentially, a field termination plug is a male ended keystone style IDC termination. The quality of the termination is extremely high due to the nature of how the IDC knives pierce the conductor insulation and conductor wires from right angles as opposed to longitudinal penetration of the insulation only by the fragile teeth found in 8P8C (aka RJ45) connector plugs. The fragile three-toothed golden contact pins will displace the insulation from the SIDE of the actual copper conductor wire (straddling it), and this creates a lot of potential for performance loss and reliability issues--especially at speeds above 1G. Just the nature of the beast, I am afraid. This issue is further amplified when putting 8P8Cs onto solid copper Ethernet as the 8P8C pins do not actually penetrate the copper at all like IDC terminations do, putting a lot of reliance of manufacturing consistency (and with manufacturing tolerances around a mid point manufacturing target you can see the problem there) and worse yet the installer being super careful and consistent. So, why would you not see them everywhere and read about them in every newspaper? It has to do with physical size and pricing. They cost quite a bit more than simple plastic 8P8C connector plugs as filed termination plugs are Category rated and use a PCB inside. You cannot use them for many tasks that have a device housing preventing a larger connector type like this. Switch to switch connections and the back port of a PC are likely not an issue, but just about anything else might be. That said, these field termination plugs are ideal for creating highly reliable backbone switch to switch or router to switch style links using solid copper Ethernet. As you get past 50 feet, patch cords may not work well or at all due to the typically thinner stranded copper conductors they use. 50 feet is the limit for 28AWG stranded copper patch cords, and 279 feet is the limit for 24AWG stranded copper patch cords. 26AWG will get you in the 220 foot range. Thus, if you need a male ended patch cord of high reliability that is extra long (and must use solid copper) then field termination plugs are the way to go. You just have to pick your battles, like with any install. Hope this helps!
@trueCABLE thanks so much, that really clarified this for me!!
how to about running premade wire directly from a switch into the device?
What you describe is the simplest example of an Ethernet channel. It works great and always will. If you ever need to install permanent Ethernet cabling in your home or business, we are standing by to help.
This is a great explanation! Thank you, Sr.!
Could you please explain me how does the bandwidth matter on data speed transfer? Since cat 5e and 6 work with up to 1 Gbps, but the former covers 100 MHz and the latter 250 MHz.
Greetings from Mexico!
Hello Alejandro! Greetings back from the USA. Higher frequencies are required to increase the data capacity of the cable and termination hardware in question in order to operate reliably. These increased data capacities are separated by Category. So, 100 MHz covers Cat5e up to 1 Gbp/s. 250 MHz covers Cat6 up to 1 Gbp/s and 10 Gbp/s up to short distances. 500 MHz covers Cat6A up to 10 Gbp/s to the full distance Ethernet can run. These frequencies are dictated by ANSI/TIA and ISO. As for extended frequencies, higher frequencies are useful when talking about NBASE-T (2.5GBASE-T and 5GBASE-T). In the case of Cat5e, the cable and termination hardware should achieve 156 MHz to carry 2.5 Gbp/s. In the case of Cat6 the cable and termination hardware should achieve 312 MHz to carry 5 Gbp/s. There are no extended frequencies for Cat6A, so 500 MHz is sufficient.
@@trueCABLE I appreciate the information you just gave me! I believe bandwidth requires a more profound study. I'd like to understand more about it, since I think it's important to comprehend the core of data transfer speeds and being able to choose the correct cable + connector to avoid latency problems, right? Do you know, by any means, a good website where I can find all this information? Maybe your channel has the answer, but I don't know.
Greetings!
@@alro7779 Hello Alejandro! The phenomenon of more information carrying capacity with higher frequency is an electrical concept. There is plenty of generic information around it not necessarily related to Ethernet cable. As to matching the correct cable to the correct termination hardware, the Cable Academy found at our website provides a wealth of information. See website link in the description. Enjoy!
@@trueCABLE Thank you, Sr.
Great video 😊
Thank you, that's what we are here for!
I just need something clarified for me. On each end of the cable run is a keystone jack. On one end a patch cable is connected. Does or can the keystone on other end connect with a wall plate to serve as a wall jack?
Hello! That’s absolutely correct. Both ends of a permanent link (using in-wall solid copper cable) terminate in keystone jacks. At the head end of the installation, where the switches are located, you mount one keystone jack into a patch panel. At the remote outlet, you mount the other keystone jack into a wall plate. Then, you connect patch cords on both ends, and this setup is referred to as the channel.
I am so glad you mentioned the solid copper cable. I had originally placed an order the for cat6 Ethernet without realizing that some is copper clad aluminum and not suitable for POE. I was able to get that order cancelled and order the pure copper. Thank you.
@@craig2535 Hello! You are welcome. By purchasing solid copper Ethernet, you just saved yourself from a lot of hassles (during installation and down the line). I am glad our content was helpful in guiding you to the correct choice. PS - I would like to add that CCA is suitable for a clothesline and not much else. Not only is it no good with PoE, but it also has significant DC resistance unbalance issues that won't permit reliable and consistent data transmission.
I have a network in a campground, Pole mounted AP's, and switches inside weather proof ventilated boxes. I keep getting arcs/shorts from the POE and its causing switch ports to cook out. Any tips? I though about having a punch down patch panel.
Hello! That sounds bad! I would recommend you take a more structured approach to this. Terminate keystone > keystone (or patch panel to keystone) and then use factory-made pre-terminated patch cords to complete the overall connection. Obviously, the keystone/hardware/etc. mounted outside needs to be moistureproof (including from humidity). See if that resolves it.
Maybe an Ethernet Surge protector **WITH A GAS DISCHARGE TUBE** could be an extra bit of insurance for that line.
@@haywoodjablome440 Hello and trueCABLE seconds that! Gas discharge tube ESD protectors are a great idea for copper twisted pair Ethernet that runs outside, as it is more subject to the issue. This especially applies to any aerial installation, which we blanket recommend the use of gas discharge tube protectors with.
At 6:36, the titler biffed the units as MGHz (MegaGigahertz?). Should just be MHz.
Hello! Thanks for catching that and letting us know. We appreciate it. It indeed should say "MHz". We will get that corrected ASAP.
I just terminated my 23AWG CAT6 network cables with 24AWG CAT5e/6 connectors (RJ-45). I didn't have any fitment issues, but now I'm wondering if I'll only get CAT5e performance?
It is an 8 pin modular not rj45
Rj45 is a registered jack wiring configuration using a 8 pin modular connector
You are absolutely correct. It is technically called a 8P8C modular plug. The "RJ45" term has unfortunately stuck with us and it continues being used, quite often incorrectly. Therefore I will use the two terms interchangeably to refer to the same thing, knowing full well it is actually a "8P8C" connector. I will often put it like this "8P8C plug, aka RJ45" but sometimes I don't put it like that. I try and catch myself when I can. The problem is if I refer to it strictly as a "8P8C modular plug" and never use the term "RJ45" many folks that are not aware of the nuances will have difficulty understanding what I am talking about. It is a double edged sword
@@trueCABLE ok
The history I heard was that RJ45 was used a long time ago in offices by the telephone co. Which was called the RJ45. So along comes Ethernet and the used the exact same connector and the RJ45 stuck because it looked the same.
@@wdooley62 Hello William! Yeah, I have heard that one too. There are several stories out there floating around about how the term "RJ45" sort of stuck. They are probably ALL true to some extent or another!
i had no idea about the field termination plugs
Glad we could introduce you to the world of field termination plugs! If you want to learn more, check out our blog! www.truecable.com/blogs/cable-academy/choosing-the-right-termination-keystone-jack-vs-rj45-connector-vs-field-termination-plug
Will true cable rj45 passthru connectors work with a Klein crimp tool? Thanks for all the info
Great question! For any of the unshielded RJ45 connectors there should be little to no issue. The same cannot be said for our Cat6/6A Shielded Passthrough plug (external ground), which has been specifically tweaked to work with our trueCRIMP - All in One Crimp and Termination tool --> www.truecable.com/products/all-in-one-crimp-and-termination-tool.
Thank you so much for this video, could you please link me the product used at 3:32 used to connect the keystone to the patch cable?
Hello Jeroen! I believe you are referring to the tool-less patch panel. We don't sell those (yet) but Amazon is a great source. I have had good experiences with TrendNET and TrippLite patch panels.
Super helpful!
Thanks for the kudos Chris! Don't forget to check out our Cable Academy on our site. There are over 150 blogs where these videos are embedded with much more detail. We typically shoot a video in addition to written blogs with very close-up photos.
Hi Don, I'm looking for cat6 patch cables to connect from my patch panel to switch. Some ports will be running just data and some POE++. I'm having the hardest time finding Cat6 patch cables that are 23awg. They are all 24awg and up! Will 24awg patch cables at 0.5ft length from the switch to patch panel cause any issues or is that fine at that length? Thanks once again!
Hello Richard! Most patch cords are 24AWG or 26AWG or 28AWG with the vast majority of them being 26AWG. 24AWG stranded copper patch cords are an excellent choice. In fact, per the standard, if you want to achieve the full 328 foot channel length you can have 295 feet of solid copper (22 to 24AWG) with two 16.5 foot patch cords at both ends (24 AWG patch cords are assumed in the 328 foot figure, FYI). This provides 33 feet of 24AWG patch cord in total. If you are using 26AWG you must derate to 13 feet max per patch cord, reducing your maximum channel length to 322 feet. If you are using 28AWG you must derate to 10 feet max per patch cord, reducing your maximum channel length to 318 feet. It does not matter if PoE is part of the equation or not. At 0.50 foot with 24AWG you are doing great, and won't have any issues assuming the patch cord is good quality.
i wonder is the field plugs would fit into a waterproof coupler
Hello and a great question! Unfortunately, no. The field termination plugs are too large for waterproof couplers.
@@trueCABLE was worth a shot will have to figure out if I can out it in the box housing
Usefull! 😊
Thanks! We are glad you enjoyed the content.
if I am using B standerd on the Keystone and I what from the other side to be JR45 jeck do I need to cressover it?
Hello, CRAFT NET! Nope, stick with T568B on both sides. You don't want to use a cross-over type termination unless you specifically require it. 99.9% of the time, you don't.
Doubt if this explanation is precise. Especially when he talks about cat6A cable. There are special cat6 plugs, that are red and that have wires sitting not in line in the plug as standard width of the cat5 plug can not accomodate thicker cat6 wire. Wires are inserted with the help of a special plastic insert that lines every odd wire slightly above even wires thus giving space for thicker wires to fit in standard plug width.
Hello obj! We carry the type of RJ45 (8P8C) plug you are referring to. It is called a "standard load-bar" style plug and it does stagger the conductors which does help with Cat6A NEXT (at the connector) performance when pushed to 500 MHz. When a 8P8C plug is absolutely required due to installation constraints, we recommend the load bar stagger plug for our Cat6A U/UTP cables -- but only when used at a single end for a MPTL run (keystone > plug for PoE devices). That said, having a IDC style termination such as a patch panel or keystone at the other end is critical to holding up cable performance and especially for achieving PASS on a Certification device. Solid copper Ethernet insulated conductor plastic insulation can and does have a tolerance that varies from lot to lot, spool to spool, and even along the SAME spool. This will affect NEXT and Return Loss at what would otherwise be a very well fitted 8P8C connector. This phenomenon does not occur with Category rated IDC style terminations (keystone, patch panel, field term plug). If you attempt to create a patch cord (defined as a 8P8C plug at both ends) with solid copper Ethernet you double your chances of creating a sub-par cable and it takes a Fluke DSX-8000 with PCA adapters to sort it out. Since most people don't have $13K - $15K to drop on such a device (nor the training to use one) we defer to the safer route which is using IDC style terminations for bulk cable and then use factory pre-terminated and tested patch cord for any necessary patching.
Nerd spotted 🎉 I am in a good place.
Happy to have you here!
Don...great information however the presentation could be improved. Focus on the product, not the presenter. For example, leave these connectors on the table, avoid unnecessary movement and use a pointing tool to highlight the features, i.e., do close-up shots.
Just waving the connectors around in the hand conveys nothing.
Also remember not everyone is doing this as a career.
Some are just DIY folks who want to address their home system.
If this information was useful for you, please let me know.
DC, thank you for your comment! We hear you and appreciate all the feedback. Our specialty is low voltage supply and we are still perfecting our videography every day! We create multiple styles of content to help accommodate all types of learners. Please feel free to visit our Cable Academy for blogs and close-up images. We will continue to take all feedback we receive and implement it in the future where we can.
1:22 I found the identity disorder joke funny, but also grim - please don't do that again.
So. 90 meters should be the longest permanent link run, to allow for up to 5 meter patch runs on either end?
I am glad you found the comment humorous. No offense intended upon anyone! I can also assure you that no field termination plugs were harmed during the making of this video :>) As to the question you had...yes, 90 meters (295 feet) is the maximum length for a permanent link (subject to derating due to ambient temps above 68 deg F). 16.5 feet (5 meters approximately) is allowable for each patch cord at either side assuming said patch cord is 24 AWG stranded. 26 AWG stranded derates this to 14 feet per patch cord. 28 AWG stranded derates this to 10 feet per patch cord.
I screwed up and ordered cat6 shielded crimping plugs from Amazon instead of cat5e shielded. They are passed through which I have the pass through crimping cutter for can I still use them on my cat 5e shielded cable
Hello Mortland! The answer is: Maybe. The "Category" of the 8P8C (aka RJ45) plug is irrelevant since they don't actually have a Category on them. When a manufacturer puts a "Category" on the bag of RJ45 8P8C plugs it is their BEST GUESS of what cable is likely to fit, or they specifically tested them with their own brand of cable that they know works (like trueCABLE does). What matters for RJ45 8P8C plugs is fitment (insulated conductor diameter and cable jacket overall diameter). The conductor AWG gauge is not the critical deciding factor here unless you are working with Ethernet with conductors outside of 23 to 24AWG. You will need to find the specs for the plug AND cable in question and see if they match up. We can help you on that one! See this blog right here: www.truecable.com/blogs/cable-academy/selecting-the-correct-connector.
Will true cable rj45 passthru connectors work with a Klein crimp tool? Thanks for all the info
Hello and that is a great question. For any of the unshielded RJ45 connectors there should be little to no issue. The same cannot be said for our Cat6/6A Shielded Passthrough plug (external ground), which has been specifically tweaked to work with our brand AIO crimper.